Where to Stay in Rome - A Local’s Neighborhood Guide
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I’ve had the pleasure of calling Rome home for the past six years, though I had been visiting the city for many more before that. Over time, and through a fair amount of my own neighborhood hopping - first in Testaccio, then Balduinai, and now in Ostiense - I’ve got a pretty good feel for Rome’s main districts, at least those in and around the center, and how they compare to each other.
And although Rome is vast (the largest city in Italy, incorporating 4.5 million residents within an area of almost 500 square miles), you can ignore most of it as the areas you'll want to base yourself in are all right around the city center.
Practical considerations aside, which I’ll cover shortly, where you choose to stay should reflect the kind of experience you’re after. For lovers of ancient Rome, there’s a lot to be said for stepping outside after breakfast and having the Pantheon or Colosseum on your doorstep. Likewise, for religious travelers, being able to see the Dome of St Peter’s Basilica from your hotel room is something truly special.
Do bear in mind, however, that Rome’s historic center is heavily shaped by mass tourism, so if you want to get a more authentic feel for local Roman life, you'll want to consider staying in a neighborhood a bit outside of it.
I go into all of this and much more below, so settle in for a long read.
Table of Contents
Overview of Rome's layout
Ancient Rome was founded on the Palatine Hill, one of the famed “Seven Hills” that rise on the east bank of the Tiber River, the waterway which today bisects the city. During the Roman Empire, Rome was divided into districts (rioni), most of which were eventually enclosed within the third-century Aurelian walls. Still today, within these walls lie many of the city’s most iconic landmarks, from the Roman Forum to the Colosseum and the Pantheon to the Trevi Fountain.
Two neighborhoods, the Vatican and the Trastevere district, run along the west bank of the river, which was not within the walls, but is still considered part of the city center.
Although ancient Rome also extended beyond the walls and Roman ruins can be found all throughout the city, most of the “outer” neighborhoods are fairly modern with architecture dating to the period between the 1920s and 1940s, albeit with some exceptions.
A large ring road encircles the outer edges of the city and appears on the map to be the city limits. It's not - Rome’s official boundaries stretch even further: westward to Ostia and the Tyrrhenian coast and southeast to the volcanic hills of the Castelli Romani. Put more simply, Rome is huge.
If you're wondering why I'm even talking about all of this, it's because it's important to have a general understanding of the city's layout and geography when you're thinking about where to stay.
Many first-time visitors arrive here expecting Rome to be a quaint and compact city where you can hop, skip, and jump between all the sights. That's not accurte. This is a massive urban area and even the historic center is quite large, with sights spread all around it. Unless you love walking, you really cannot get everywhere on foot, so every visitor will at some point need to acquaint themselves with our much maligned public transport system.
Also know that although complaining about the metro and bus is a beloved pastime amongst locals, the network is actually pretty good and between trains, metro, buses, and trams, it also operates 24/7 and covers the entire city. The metro is generally the best way to get around, and while it only has three lines (only two of which you’ll ever use), they’ll get you everywhere you need to go.
Quick summary of my 6 recommended neighborhoods
The vast majority of visitors base themselves inside the city walls and I think that's a good choice for most people. Even so, a few of the neighborhoods I’ll be recommending, like Garbatella and Prati, are just outside these ancient boundaries.
All of the neighborhoods I've chosen are charming, (fairly) central, and genuinely pleasant places to start and end your day. They may look a bit dispersed around the city, but they're all well served by the city’s public transit network, and you’ll never be more than 20 minutes by metro from Rome’s major monuments and attractions.
I've tried to choose a nice mix of neighborhoods which all showcase different aspects of Rome's charm. The more central neighborhoods will feel like the Rome you probably imagine and are easier from a convenience standpoint, as you'll be able to do a fair deal on foot and will have lots of sights right outside your door. The obvious tradeoff is that they're touristy, expensive, and perpetually crowded. The less central areas, like Garbatella and Aventino, will require using public transport (or a taxi) to get to the historic center, but offer the upside of better prices, a much more local atmosphere, and a relaxed, uncrowded vibe.
Here’s a quick overview of my six recommended neighborhoods:
1. Monti
Hilly and well-heeled Monti rises just above the historic center and is ideally located for exploring Roman ruins as it borders the Colosseum, Imperial Fora, and Trajan’s Markets on the Quirinal Hill. It’s also well connected to the rest of Rome via the Cavour station on Metro B line. With a nice mix of locals and tourists, it has plenty of great bars, restaurants, and pizzerias, though not without a few tourist traps, particularly running either side of Via Cavour.
2. Centro Storico
Rome’s historic centre (centro storico) is where most first-time visitors stay. It’s the most atmospheric area, has the most amenities, and boasts the highest concentration of must-see sights. Accordingly, it's the most touristic and most expensive place to stay. Public transit connectivity is surprisingly not that great, but that shouldn’t matter much as you’ll want to walk as much as possible.
3. Prati
Situated on the west bank of the Tiber River, Prati is a wealthy neighborhood that's quite a bit more modern than most of the other neighborhoods on this list. It's especially convenient for visiting the Vatican (which is located within it), and is well connected to the rest of Rome via the Metro A line. Personally, I find Prati a little too polished, and prefer the character of neighborhoods like Trastevere and Garbatella. But if visiting the Vatican is high on your agenda, and you like the sound of an upscale neighbourhood surrounded by stylish bistros, bars, and boutiques, then Prati is an excellent choice.
4. Trastevere
The perennially popular district of Trastevere is a bit similar to Garbatella, albeit much more lively and much more touristy. Its charming medieval streets, abundance of restaurants and bars, and buzzing nightlife make it ideal for first-time visitors who don’t mind a bit of walking and want some energy where they’re staying. Plus you’ll always find places to eat and drink, even on a sleepy Sunday in the off season.
5. Garbatella
The little-known neighbourhood of Garbatella is my personal favorite, and while further out from the center, it gives you an authentic feel for Rome, far from the tourist crowds. Garbatella remains entirely untouched by the effects of overtourism - sometimes to its detriment (it has few conventional hotel options and is a bit of a ghost town on Sundays). But this is part of its charm, and while it feels like a world away from the city center, it’s a wonderful world to inhabit.
6. Aventino (Aventine Hill)
Leafy Aventino (sometimes called Aventine Hill in English)is the most bourgeois neighbourhood on this list. It's lovely and peaceful and guarantees those who stay here some welcome respite from the crowds and chaos of the historic center. It also offers picturesque views over the city and, despite being a bit removed, is really well connected by public transit. You might end up splurging a bit to stay here, but if serenity is important to you, it's the perfect base.
1. Monti
Best for: Pretty much everyone
Pros: Close to most major attractions, well connected via the metro, easily walkable, cool, authentically Roman vibe
Cons: Expensive, some tourist traps, can get a little loud at night, a bit of a walk down to the Tiber and that part of the city center
Via Cavour. Photo: it:indeciso42, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Via dei Serpenti. Photo: Lalupa, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Occupying the site of what was ancient Rome’s Suburra, home to the city’s underclass and a pleasure district playground for scandal-prone senators as well as the family home of a certain Julius Caesar, Monti is Rome’s first and oldest rione, and has since transformed into one of central Rome's trendiest neighborhoods.
Whether Monti is home to the oldest continuously inhabited street in Rome, or perhaps even the world (Via Madonna dei Monti), is a matter of debate, but undebatable is that it's one of the city’s most picturesque neighbourhoods. It is impossible to walk around Monti and not fall for its ivy-covered medieval buildings interspersed with eighteenth-century palazzos.
Its hilly terrain (from which its name derives) begins immediately behind the Imperial Forums and the neighborhood rises and falls over three separate hills. Streets are cobbled, heavily pedestrianized, and the entire area has an elegant air that is reflected in its lovely shops, restaurants, and cafes.
Neighborhood life here plays out around Piazza Madonna dei Monti, around whose sixteenth-century fountain students, well-heeled professionals, and politicians alike come to sit and sip cocktails during evening aperitivo hour. It's in the evening that Monti really gets going, morphing from a peaceful and sleepy neighbourhood into a buzzing nightlife hotspot, with people of all ages spilling out of bars onto its streets and piazzas until the early hours.
Monti’s demographic makeup is pretty varied, ranging from students (international and local) to families that have had homes here for generations, and politicians, UN workers, and lots of expats. And its amenities reflect this diversity, with chic boutiques and vintage thrift markets sitting side-by-side with quaint bars, traditional trattorias and even a scattering of Irish pubs.
The neighborhood is also really well connected both to Fiumicino Airport and the rest of the city. Metro B’s Cavour station is situated right in the centre of the neighborhood and from here, it’s just one stop northbound to Termini, where you can change onto the A Line which gives you access to all the sights in the center and the Vatican.
The only real negative to staying in Monti is that you're a bit of a walk to the western part of the Centro Storico (like to Piazza Navona, the Tiber River, and Trastevere). It's also fairly expensive.
For first-time visitors who want the convenience of a central location, but are hoping to avoid the crowds and touristy feel of the centro storico, Monti is an excellent alternative. Its lack of specific sights means that it rarely gets as busy as places like Piazza Navona and the Trevi Fountain, and its nightlife isn’t as chaotic or clamorous as that of Trastevere.
Where to stay
Hotel Canova - Clean, no-frills, and affordable 3-star hotel boasting a great location in the heart of Monti. Breakfast is not included, but nor is it necessarily needed given the abundance of choice on Via Urbana and Via dei Capocci. $180.
Hotel Forum - Lovely 4-star hotel located as close to the heart of ancient Rome as it’s possible to get. Its sun terrace boasts sweeping views over the Roman Forum and the back of the Forum of Augustus, a great backdrop against which to enjoy a juice, fresh pastry and pancake breakfast. $310.
FH55 Grand Hotel Palatino - Luxury 4-star hotel situated a few steps from Metro Cavour station and a 10-minute walk from Termini station. The rooms are modern, well-equipped, and very comfortable, and the breakfast selection is varied and highly rated. $490.
H10 Palazzo Galla - Premium option 4-star hotel situated just around the corner from Trajan’s Column and a few minutes walk from the Colosseum and Trevi Fountain. Of note are its elegant rooms with large windows overlooking the streets. €443.
2. Centro Storico (Historic Center)
Best for: Travelers wanting to experience iconic Rome; visitors with limited time
Pros: Within walking distance of all Rome’s major monuments, breathtakingly beautiful, full of life, there’s always something going on
Cons: Overwhelmingly touristy, expensive hotels, poorly connected by public transport, full of tourist traps
Piazza Navona on an unusually quiet afternoon
Piazza del Popolo seen from the hill leading up to Villa Borghese park
Looking down from the Spanish Steps
The Pantheon and Piazza della Rotonda. Photo: Rabax63, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Centro Storico is iconic Rome and almost certainly what you picture when daydreaming about visiting. It's the area lying immediately east of the Tiber River, south of Villa Borghese park, and north of the Colosseum. The eastern border is roughly where Termini train station sits.
The area technically comprises several distinct districts like Ponte, Regola, Parione, and Trevi. For the average visitor, those names won't mean anything, but it just tells you that it’s bigger than you probably imagine. Even so, the centro storico is fairly compact and easily walkable, which should hardly be surprising given that it started taking shape some 2,000 years ago. It's also central to all the main sights and most other neighborhoods that you'll want to visit.
To give you an idea of distances, consider that from the Pantheon (roughly the center of the area) you can walk to the Vatican or the Colosseum in just under 30 minutes. Getting from Termini station to the Roman Forum is also a half hour jaunt, and you can meander from the Trevi Fountain to Piazza Navona in the time it takes to devour a gelato.
Architecturally, the historic center is a mishmash of ancient remains, often a few metres beneath the modern street level, interspersed with medieval churches, Renaissance and Baroque era palaces and government buildings. One of the city’s great ironies is that, while the Romans designed their cities throughout the empire according to a logical grid plan, their own capital developed haphazardly, ad hoc, adapting to the remains of surviving structures of the past.
All of this makes for awe-inspiring and always surprising surroundings. At any given moment, you’ll find yourself emerging from a narrow cobbled street and coming face to face with a vast open square (like Piazza Navona), a pockmarked ancient temple (the Temple of Hadrian), or Italy’s obelisk-fronted parliament building (Palazzo Chigi).
Given the size of Rome’s historic center, which spans some 1.5 square miles and encompasses nine rioni, it’s worth briefly breaking it down by district. The area around Piazza Navona is the most convenient (a “10-minutes from everything” kind of place), and the square itself is stunning. But the swelling legions of street-performers, caricature-artists, fortune-tellers, and tacky souvenir-sellers that ply their trade there are ridding it of much of its charm, rendering it more Disneyland Rome than the Eternal City.
Campo de’ Fiori is straining under the same weight of mass tourism, but the arterial streets leading off from it (Via dei Coronari and Via di Monserrato) might be some of the most beautiful in Rome.
The Sant' Eustachio district around the Pantheon strikes a nice balance between being within easy walking distance of most attractions and still having some decent restaurants, bars, and gelaterie nearby. The piazza outside the Pantheon is, of course, very touristy, but base yourself there and you can at least enjoy it without the crowds first thing in the morning or last thing at night.
The chicest area is up by Piazza del Popolo, just north of the Spanish Steps, which has two lovely streets (Via Margutta and Via Babuino) and the expansive Villa Borghese park on its doorstep.
Rome’s historic centre is undeniably romantic. There really is nothing like taking a late-night stroll down the bohemian Via Margutta or aristocratic Via Condotti after the boutique shops have shut, the city’s young have migrated over to Trastevere, and a wave of calm finally falls over the center. But bear in mind that some areas, like Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona, never sleep. So, if peace and quiet is important to you, base yourself up in the north near Piazza del Popolo, or consider a quieter neighborhood altogether, like Aventino or Garbatella.
If you don’t mind crowds and are happy to do a fair amount of walking, the centro storico is the neighborhood for you. Given that this is the most touristic part of one of the world’s most touristic cities, there are plenty of tourist trap restaurants, tacky tourist shops, and rather garish trappings of mass tourism. The area is so touristy that it can genuinely be difficult to find a restaurant or shop that's not geared solely towards tourists, so anyone staying here will need to do some serious research on where to eat, and reserve well in advance.
Where to stay
Casa de’ Coronari - Cute, contemporary 3-star hotel set within a historic building on Via dei Coronari. It’s conveniently situated around the corner from Piazza Navona (but far from the crowds and chaos) and a short walk from the Vatican, Campo Marzio, or Trastevere. €250.
Charme Spagna Boutique Hotel - Centrally situated hotel equidistant between the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain while managing to avoid the crowds that swell around either. The hotel has a decent breakfast buffet and comfortable beds, but its main selling point is its location and proximity to the Metro A line. $250.
Hotel Abruzzi - Comfortable and modern 3-star hotel, wonderfully situated on Piazza della Rotonda, practically on the doorstep of the Pantheon. While its breakfast options are excellent, the hotel is just across the road from La Tazza d’Oro, the best cafè in central Rome, for your obligatory second cup. $320.
Hotel Residenza in Farnese - Reasonably priced 4-star hotel situated adjacent to Palazzo Farnese, a stunning Renaissance palace that now serves as the French embassy. It’s within easy walking distance of Campo de’ Fiori but without the noise from its wild nightlife. €260.
3. Prati
Best for: Religious travelers and anyone who wants to be close to the Vatican; people who want a local but upscale atmosphere; those looking for proximity to the center but removed from the chaos
Pros: Right next to the Vatican, full of fantastic restaurants, very pretty and pleasant, quite local in most of the neighborhood (away from the Vatican), good public transit connections, nice hotels that are good value
Cons: Can feel quite modern and less distinctly Roman, no sights other than the Vatican, no nightlife (a pro for some…)
Piazza dei Quriti. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Piazza Cavour. Photo: Krzysztof Golik, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Characterised by wide, tree-lined boulevards, elegant and orderly architecture, and a rational grid layout you don’t find anywhere else in Rome, the affluent rione of Prati can feel quite far removed from the chaotic charm of the center across the river.
If Prati were a restaurant, it would be an upscale Parisian bistro, not the rough n’ ready pizzeria that would represent, say, Trastevere or Garbatella. But if that’s your vibe, and you’d like some daily respite from the low-level anarchy that plays out constantly around the center, Prati is perfect.
This is where many wealthy Romans live and where many more come to shop, whether at the designer clothing or shoe stores that line the Via Cola di Rienzo, or at the boutique furniture brands dotted throughout the area. It’s also where expats flock to the food emporium Castrani (a favourite of mine, as a Brit, as it’s the only place I can find the stuff from back home that Italian supermarket chains won’t touch with a barge pole).
Much of Prati’s appeal lies in its boutique shops, upscale enoteche (wine bars), and local culinary offerings around Mercato Trionfale food market. At night, it's generally pretty quiet, making it an ideal base for a good night's sleep. When you want to head over to the center for a bit more liveliness, the city center is just across the river and Trastevere just to your south.
While you might think that the presence of the Vatican, and the millions of tourists who visit it, would mean that the area is overrun by tourism, that's actually not the case. Most of the neighborhood is quite local, although with an international vibe due to its wealth and the taste of its residents, and wandering around here can be a nice break from the tourist throngs that overcrowd much of the city center.
If you choose to stay here, I would avoid the area immediately surrounding the Vatican as that is tourist central and the hotels tend to be bad and overpriced, restaurants are tourist traps, and totes and street hawkers will bother you at every turn.
For getting around the city, you have three stops on Metro A line (Cipro, Ottaviano or Lepanto), lots of buses, and tram lines. The city center is a quick walk across the Tiber and even Trastevere is reachable on foot or via a quick bus ride.
Despite its many positives, Prati would not be my first choice as a base, other than for religious travelers. I personally find the area a little too pristine and modern, not crumbly and graffitied enough to feel authentically Roman. This is partly due to Prati having the Vatican on its doorstep, and partly because Prati is new. Its name, in fact, means fields, which is what this entire area was before being developed and residentialised in the mid-nineteenth century.
It's not my cup of tea, but that's entirely a question of personal taste and I recognize that many people will quite like it. I've said my piece, now go forth bravely on your own!
Where to stay
Starhotels Michelangelo - A gorgeous 4-star hotel with comfortable, spacious rooms, a great breakfast, and St Peter’s dome greeting you every time you step outside. It’s not quite in Prati, but in the Aurelio district, on the south side of the Vatican. $250.
Atlante Star Hotel - Perfectly situated 4-star hotel with beautiful rooms, a great breakfast, and a rooftop terrace with a stunning view of St. Peter’s Basilica. Pricier than the other hotels on this list, but worth it if you have the budget, given its proximity to both the Vatican and the historic centre across the river. €335.
Relais Cola di Rienzo - Simple, comfortable and affordable 3-star hotel conveniently situated less than a mile from the Vatican Museums and a four-minute walk from Lepanto Metro station. It does delicious breakfasts too, which can be served in the room. €225.
Vatican Charme - Comfortable and affordable hotel within a stone’s throw of the Vatican Museums, making it perfect for visitors planning an early morning tour (by far the best way to do the Vatican). The hotel offers decent breakfast options and an on-site restaurant, though you’ll find better options nearby. €200
4. Trastevere
Best for: Travelers who want to be in a hip and trendy neighborhood; anyone looking for nightlife
Pros: Good dining and nightlife scene, historic and pretty architecture, fairly pedestrianized, direct train to Fiumicino, peaceful during the day
Cons: Not on a metro line, very touristy, loud at night, pricey
A typical alleyway in Trastevere. Photo:trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Photo: Krzysztof Golik, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Riverside Trastevere, which means ‘across the River Tiber’, is one of Rome’s most beloved neighborhoods. It combines old-world medieval charm with a great dining scene and a very lively and youthful nightlife.
When guidebooks wax lyrical about Rome’s “cobbled, medieval streets and narrow winding alleyways”, they’re really describing Trastevere. Unlike its neighbour Prati, which was built from scratch following a broad, boulevard-based grid plan, Trastevere developed haphazardly from its origins as an impoverished immigrant district in antiquity which was home to foreigners, traders, and Rome’s sizable Jewish community.
Trastevere is an absolute maze - even to me after so many years here and more bleary-eyed nights out than I care to admit. But its chaotic layout is precisely what gives it its charm and distinct character. Like the people of Garbatella, the Trasteverini have held onto their local identity, right down to the logo of their soccer club, Trastevere Calcio, which you’ll find graffitied throughout its streets and emblazoned on strips and shirts in shop windows.
You’ll find plenty of great bars and restaurants (as well as lots of others that look great, but are actually tourist traps), quirky souvenir shops, and the odd supermarket or convenience store, which seemingly remain in business merely by selling cheap bottles of beer. Many patrons are starry-eyed students of Trastevere’s two major American universities - the American University in Rome and John Cabot University - who have made parts of Trastevere their own.
Be warned that Trastevere is Rome's main nightlife district, so nights here are almost always crowded, loud, and fairly rambunctious. It's good fun, but definitely not what everyone wants to be coming home to (or trying to sleep through). Even so, during the day, it's relatively peaceful and quiet, not least because much of its cobbled centre is pedestrianized.
Even if you don’t end up staying in Trastevere, you have to walk through it, ideally in the late afternoon or early evening when everyone is out for aperitivo. Pass by Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, the district’s main square, making sure to check out Bar San Calisto right around the corner, where you'll see an entertaining vignette of contemporary Romans at leisure (i.e. playing cards while sipping on €2.50 bottles of Peroni). Piazza Trilussa is also guaranteed good fun, though it can get particularly crowded late at night.
When considering Trastevere as your base, the main negative is that it’s so poorly connected to the rest of the city. Although getting here from the airport is easy (you have a direct train from Fiumicino to Roma Trastevere station), getting anywhere else is kind of hassle. To get to the Vatican, you’ll have to walk a long distance or catch a meandering bus. To get to the centro storico, Colosseum and ancient center, you'll have to take a tram or bus and still do a bit of walking. Being here is lovely, but getting out of it can be a pain.
Also, although lots of guides and blogs call this a very "local” or “authentic” area, that's a pretty out-of-date description. Trastevere isn't overrun by tourism and locals do still live here, but it's far from a hidden gem and almost every visitor to Rome will pass through here at some point. The neighborhood has not entirely succumbed to mass tourism, but you definitely feel its presence.
Where to stay
Hotel San Francesco - Simple, comfortable and affordable 3-star hotel within walking distance of both central Trastevere and the Testaccio district across the river. Its highlight might be the rooftop terrace bar, which is perfect for an evening aperitivo before dinner. $125.
Hotel Ripa - Conveniently situated modern 4-star hotel with quirky decor and a fitness centre. The bedroom walls can be a little thin, but it makes up for that with a great breakfast. $275.
Donna Camilla Savelli - Luxurious 4-star hotel that has the air of an aristocratic residence. The rooms are elegant, comfortable, and beautifully furnished, but the highlights are the garden and rooftop bar, which offers simply stunning views. $375.
UNA Hotels Trastevere Roma - Premium 4-star hotel within walking distance of Santa Maria in Trastevere, the Jewish Ghetto, and the historic centre across the river. It has bright, comfortable rooms, access to the terrace, restaurant and bar, and a great breakfast selection. $400.
5. Aventino (Aventine Hill)
Best for: Travelers looking for a high-end hotel close to but removed from the city center crowds; anyone who really values peace and quiet; families with kids
Pros: Fabulous views, lovely hotels, lots of green spaces, really well connected via train, tram, metro and bus, peaceful and picturesque, within walking distance of many ancient attractions (the Colosseum, Circus Maximus, Baths of Caracalla, Roman Forum)
Cons: Hotels are expensive, sleepy atmosphere, very little street life, not many restaurants or bars
The Palace of the Knights of Malta atop the Aventine Hill. Photo: Lalupa, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The Rose Garden in Aventino. Photo: user:Lalupa, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Incorporated within Rome’s riverside Ripa rione, Aventino (Aventine Hill in English) is the most residential of Rome’s Seven Hills and by far the most peaceful. In antiquity, the Aventine was where Rome’s plebeians lived, but now this leafy bourgeois area is home to wealthy Romans and well-heeled employees of the United Nations’ Food and Agriculture Organization, which has its headquarters nearby.
Aventino is quite residential and most of the buildings are gorgeous tree-shaded villas or penthouses which have incorporated modern design features into historic structures. Most of the area was built in the 18th century and later as the area was ransacked and destroyed in the Middle Ages. Apart from bourgeois residences, there's not much here beyond gardens, churches, and religious institutions. The whole area feels peaceful and is blissfully free of traffic and the associated noise pollution.
It can be a steep walk up into the neighborhood when returning from the center or a meal in nearby Testaccio, but I regularly walk here with guests and clients (when visiting the wonderful Orange Garden) and the only complaint I’ve ever heard is people lamenting that they don't have a house here. So, it can't be that bad.
Aventino is very much a residential neighborhood and it's also quite low density, meaning that there's not much going on. It's not the type of place where you step outside your door into bustling street life or can just pop around the corner to any number of shops and restaurants. In fact, if there even is a shop on the Aventine Hill, I’ve never seen it. For restaurants and bars, you really only have one street (Viale Aventino), so will probably find yourself heading to Testaccio for most of your dining.
In terms of location, Aventino is bordered to its south by Testaccio (a neighborhood famed for its market and food), to its west by the Tiber River, and to its east by the Circus Maximus. Although secluded by design (rich people like their hillside privacy), it's actually quite close to the center and remarkably well connected.
It’s just a 10-minute walk from Roma Ostiense train station, making getting to or from Fiumicino a breeze, and is connected to the Metro B line via two stations: Piramide and Circo Massimo. The #23 bus will bring you up into northern Rome and Trastevere is a pleasant walk or a quick ride on tram #3.
For sights, the Aventine’s Orange Garden is widely regarded as offering one of the best viewpoints in Rome, and is well worth visiting around sunset. On the other side of the hill, the Rose Garden offers a more dramatic view over the valley of the Circus Maximus and the ruins of the imperial palace on the Palatine Hill behind. The Aventine is also home to the (unfortunately no-longer secret) Secret Keyhole, which rewards those who peep through with a picture postcard view of St Peter's Basilica's Dome.
Aventino is ideal for romantic getaways or for travellers who seriously value peace and quiet. If you’re looking for an energetic atmosphere or a neighborhood with plenty of options for dining, drinking, and shopping right outside your door, you'll be better off staying in Monti, Trastevere, or Prati.
Where to stay
Hotel Aventino - Reasonably priced 3-star boutique hotel with comfortable antique rooms and modern amenities. The hotel also serves a generous breakfast (continental, buffet and Italian) and traditional Italian cuisine in its highly-rated restaurant. $115.
Hotel San Anselmo - Elegant 4-star hotel with comfortable, characterful rooms, plenty of amenities, and a peaceful garden. Some rooms also have terraces, hot tubs and balconies with views over the River Tiber and Trastevere. €220.
Hotel Villa San Pio - Consistently highly-rated 3-star hotel with comfortable rooms and classical decor. The hotel also serves excellent breakfasts and dinners in its on-site restaurant. $235.
The Corner Townhouse - Modern 4-star hotel on Viale Aventino, between the Aventine Hill and San Saba district. Each room has a balcony or terrace, and there’s an onsite restaurant, though you’ll find plenty of choice on the Viale Aventine (both Italian and international). The hotel is also less than a five-minute walk from the Circo Massimo metro station. $250.
6. Garbatella
Best for: Adventurous travelers looking for a truly local atmosphere; returning visitors and people on longer stays
Pros: Authentic local area that is untouched by tourism, fantastic restaurants (no tourist traps), within walking distance of the Appian Way, relaxed and laid back vibe
Cons: No major sights, far from the city center, very few hotels, can be very quiet
Historic Palazzo Albergo Rosso seen from Piazza Eugenio Biffi. Photo: Piazza Eugenio Biffi: it:indeciso42, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Scala degli Innamorati. Photo: La Scala degli Innamorati: it:indeciso42, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Modern buildings in Garbatella. Photo: Croberto68, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Garbatella, a little-known neighbourhood just south of the center, is sometimes referred to as Rome’s garden quarter thanks to its distinctive layout inspired by the English Garden City movement. Designed in the 1920s as a public housing project for working-class families of railway and dock workers, it's a new neighbourhood by Roman standards. And yet it feels the most authentically Roman since it is completely untouched by tourism and still feels like a relic from the postwar era.
The Romans have a saying, “si vive nel quartiere” (one lives in one’s neighbourhood), which encapsulates the profound attachment many have to their immediate surroundings - shopping at the same bakery, going to the same market, meeting for drinks with neighbors, etc.
In few places is this as resonant as in Garbatella where the sense of community, architecturally enforced by the 62 urban lots and communal gardens coupled with its relatively remote location, has fostered a strong sense of togetherness and neighborhood identity among its traditionally working-class residents.
This distinctiveness manifests itself as much among Garbatella’s architecture, noted for its eclectic mix of architectural styles, with Rococo, Baroque and Rationalist influences, as among the people, who are friendly, hospitable, and welcoming.
I’ll admit I’m biased when it comes to Garbatella as I live just down the road in Ostiense, but I genuinely think it strikes the best balance between convenience and authenticity. Although it has no major sights and is far from the center, you're walking distance to the Appian Way - Rome’s most underrated hidden gem - and connected to the rest of the city via the Metro B line. You also have a direct train line to Fiumicino airport.
And I haven't even mentioned its fantastic restaurants, which make their money not from the passing trade of tourists but off the loyalty of discerning locals. Indeed, whenever I'm showing around visitors, they always list Garbatella as one of their highlights, saying it left more of an impression than the Trevi Fountain or Trastevere.
Garbatella is not an obvious choice for a base, and that's not without reason. While I really like it and think that it's very interesting to visit, it presents some significant downsides that will be deal breakers for most visitors. It's far from the city center and main sights, isn't especially well connected by public transport, won't give you that Roman "wow” factor, and has very few hotels.
If you're here on a first visit or just coming for a couple of days, it's not somewhere I can really recommend. However, if you're a returning visitor, planning a longer stay in the capital, or just really like staying in local neighborhoods when you travel, you might love it.
Where to stay
La Genziana - Guest apartments close to the Papal Basilica of St Paul Outside the Walls, which offer clean, well-furnished, and welcoming rooms with spacious bathrooms, breakfast and toiletries. $140.
Abitart - Conveniently situated within easy walking distance of Roma Ostiense Station, making airport transfers a breeze, this 4-star hotel offers great breakfasts, and big, comfortable (and colourful) rooms. Not technically in Garbatella, but on the Ostiense/Testaccio border. $180.
Caraval Hotels - 4-star hotel with spacious, soundproofed and fully air-conditioned rooms, very comfy beds and great breakfasts. It’s situated on the Via Cristoforo Colombo, so within short walking distance from the Appian Way and inner Garbatella, and well connected to the centre by bus and the Metro B line (Garbatella). $200.
Gasometer Urban Suites - Cool, uber modern aparthotel rooms with spacious air-conditioned and well-illuminated rooms. Guests can also enjoy the fitness room, sun terrace bar, lounge and coffee shop. Situated in Ostiense, not Garbatella, but within easy walking distance from Metro Piramide (B line) and Roma Ostiense train station. €220.
Other neighborhoods to consider
If you haven't found enough option in the neighborhoods I listed above, or if you're the type of traveler who wants to stay somewhere where you won't even catch the the terrifying sight of another tourist, here are some more areas worth considering.
I don't think these neighborhoods make sense for the vast majority of first-time visitors, but maybe you'll find a good fit.
Monteverde
Quieter and more residential than neighboring Trastevere, leafy Monteverde is the home of wealthier Romans, and is wedged between Aurelio and the Vatican to the north and Trastevere to the south.
Its proximity to Roma Trastevere train station is convenient for those arriving from Fiumicino Airport, but Monteverde is far from any metro, so if you’re staying here, you’ll have to either take taxis or the tram into the centre (Piazza Venezia). If you’re here for a while and want to spend time among Rome’s parks, the 450-acre Villa Doria Pamphili is well worth exploring.
San Giovanni
San Giovanni is a good fit for religious travellers, since its focal point is the Papal Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome’s main cathedral, of which the Pope is bishop) and the Holy Stairs (Scala Sancta) just opposite.
Accommodation here is cheaper than in Prati, while still really well connected via San Giovanni station on the Metro A line. Just be aware that this is not the quietest area, especially around the main thoroughfare and down along the Via Appia Nuova, a hub of student life and a traffic congestion hotspot.
Sallustiano
Just north of Termini Station and east of Via Veneto, the Sallustiano district is often overlooked—unfairly so, given that it is safer and more pleasant than the immediate surroundings of Termini. The area is named after the ancient Horti Sallustiani, the Gardens of Sallust, which once stood here during the late Roman Republic.
Today, it’s a peaceful pocket of elegant nineteenth-century buildings, embassies, and classic Roman residential blocks. Sallustiano is also within walking distance of Castro Pretorio and Porta Pia, both home to some excellent local restaurants and wine bars, and connected to the city by bus and the Metro B line.
Testaccio
Just to the west of the Aventine Hill, the riverside neighborhood of Testaccio is a little off the main tourist drag and a great place to base yourself, with plenty of cultural and culinary offerings from the ancient to the modern. Once a heavily working-class district and home to Europe’s biggest slaughterhouse (now an uber cool cultural centre), it has since undergone generational gentrification and gained a foodie reputation as home to some of Rome’s best restaurants.
Testaccio is also home to the most local-sy piazza in Rome, Piazza Testaccio, where kids kick footballs about (using the trees as goal posts) while their parents sit back and sip spritzes.
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