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Florence, my hometown and the place I still call home, is an ancient city with a lovely historic core that’s densely packed in a somewhat rambling, medieval layout. Like many Italian cities, Florence wasn’t designed to accommodate a vastly growing population, and today it can be looked at as two distinct areas: the historic center and the modern part of town, which encircles the center.

Within its historic core, the winding, narrow streets are exceedingly atmospheric, but can also feel almost claustrophobic at times, and they certainly don’t allow for easy access by car. While that makes everyday life somewhat difficult, I think that adds to the appeal for visitors, as it’s where you’ll get the clearest sense of what this Renaissance gem was like hundreds of years ago.

All of Florence’s treasures - its museums, great works of art, palaces, churches, and best restaurants - are concentrated within this core, which can easily be walked from end to end in as little as 40 minutes. From a sightseeing perspective, it couldn’t be more convenient.

Of course, being one of the most visited cities in the world, Florence’s historic center has in some ways given itself over to tourism, and the locals who once lived here have been steadily moving out to newer parts of the city for decades (both for the convenience of modern apartments and because of tourism-driven rising costs). While that takes away from the ambiance a bit, Florence is somewhere you primarily visit to see Renaissance masterpieces, so I’d prioritize access to those over seeing “how the locals live” (our lives aren’t all that interesting anyways!).

I’ve spent most my 30+ years exploring this city, so I think I have a pretty good feel for the various neighborhoods and what makes some of them better places to stay than others.

Below, I’ve recommended 5 neighborhoods all within the city center; the same places that I recommend to friends when they're visiting They’re all centrally located and convenient for sightseeing, but each has different appeals, so which will be right for you depends on the atmosphere you're looking for.

Let’s dig in!

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My favorite hotels in Florence

Hotel Lungarno - overlooking the Arno river, this is always my top recommendation for true luxury. $500-1,000 USD
Hotel Bernini Palace - reasonably priced luxury in between San Giovanni and Santa Croce. $350-500 USD
Hotel Calimala - gorgeous boutique hotel in the absolute city center. $250-450 USD
La Maison du Sage - with a whole lot of style, this is my favorite hotel in Santa Croce. $250 USD
Hotel Silla - lovely hotel in a great Oltrarno location for a good price. $150-225 USD

Guided tours and activities

Private walking tours with Samuele (my favorite local guide)
Private Tuscany day trips and wine tours with Stefano
Guided tour of the Uffizi Galleries (max 7 people)
Small group Chianti winery tour
Cinque Terre day trip

How to get around

Car rentals with DiscoverCars
Train tickets from Trenitalia and Italo
Urban tram routes at GEST
Airport transfers via Welcome Pickups

Overview of Florence’s layout

*Florence’s historic core outlined in grey*

For its size (400,000 residents), Florence is a very compact city and its layout today still clearly reflects its medieval roots. The historic center, which originally extended out from the Duomo (the city’s cathedral), is where nearly all of the city’s attractions are located, and it’s the most atmospheric part of town.

To understand what this area includes, look on a map and take the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio bridge as your reference points: the historic core is essentially the small area crowded around the southern side of the bridge and then everything on the northern side extending out to the city’s ring road, labeled as SS67 on maps.

Another key feature is the Arno river, which divides the historic center into two parts known as “di qua d’Arno” (this side of the Arno) and “di là d’Arno” or “Oltrarno” (the other side of the Arno). These two sides are not equal: the larger side, the “di qua d’Arno”, includes the three sizeable historic quarters of San Giovanni, Santa Maria Novella, and Santa Croce, as well as most of the modern city stretching beyond them. Across the river in the Oltrarno (“di là d’arno), it’s much smaller, with just the 3 little neighborhoods of Santo Spirito, San Niccolò, and San Frediano.

The city developed in this way because hills rise up almost immediately beyond the Oltrarno, forming a natural barrier that makes construction quite difficult. While the hills are a natural boundary, there’s also a man-made one here: the still-intact historic city walls clearly define the edge of the neighborhood, anchored by the hilltop Forte Belvedere, which offers one of the best views of the city.

Moving beyond the historic center (everything outside of the ring road that I mentioned above), the city begins to feel much more residential and far less magical. There aren’t many sights of interest to visitors, fewer shops and restaurants, and the evenings can feel fairly quiet and dull. These areas are designed for residents, not visitors, so they cater to regular daily life, not people in town for just a couple of days.

For more info on the city, see our guide to Florence and 3-day Florence itinerary.

Summary of my 5 recommended neighborhoods

As I just mentioned above, modern Florence has expanded well beyond its ancient core, with development and construction responding to population growth and the demands of its residents for the conveniences of modern construction and development.

Those newer neighborhoods don’t offer much for visitors, as the buildings aren’t especially pretty or historic, there are essentially no sights to explore, and they’re not set up to accommodate tourists. They’re really just residential areas, and evenings can feel pretty quiet and dull, especially if you’re here on vacation.

With that in mind, the five neighborhoods that I’ve recommended below are all within the historic core. This is the part of the city where the Renaissance was born and it’s where you’ll find the incredible collections of artistic masterpieces, monuments, famous landmarks, and grand palazzi. By far the most beautiful and atmospheric area of the city, just about everything of touristic interest is here, so it just makes sense as your base.

And while I know you may find yourself thinking “but aren’t those areas super touristy?” - they are! -, that’s a small price to pay for the charm and convenience that they offer. Florence is one of the most visited cities in the world, so you were never going to be able to avoid fellow tourists anyways.

Here’s a quick overview of the 4 neighborhoods that I think make the most sense for visitors:

Oltrarno (red on the map)
Personally, this is my favorite neighborhood in the city. The Oltrarno is, in many ways, the most authentic and artistic area of the historic center. Long known for its artisan workshops and studios (many of which still remain), it’s preserved the romanticism of the old city better than anywhere else. And being slightly removed from the big sights on the other side of the river, it’s less intensely touristy, even if not a “hidden gem”.
Santa Croce (purple on the map)
Santa Croce, on the southeastern side of the city center, is the liveliest and most fun area of Florence, offering a nice mix of tourists and locals, who mainly come here in the evenings to eat and drink. The predominant mood is that of festivity, with an upbeat, cheerful vibe usually filling the streets.
San Giovanni/Centro Storico (yellow on the map)
The San Giovanni neighborhood, centered around the cathedral and Ponte Vecchio, is Florence's prime historic center. Most of the city's most significant historical sites, artistic works, and prettiest buildings are concentrated here. For convenience to the big sights, this neighborhood is simply unbeatable. It’s by far the most touristy part of the city though.
Santa Maria Novella (blue on the map)
On the western side of the historic center, this is where you’ll find Florence’s train station. The area around the station is heavily commercial and always busy, with lots of shops, casual restaurants (not always the best though), and more affordable accommodation. It becomes relatively atmospheric as you move toward either the river or the Duomo, and you’ll find lots of small, typical streets, pleasant squares, and pretty Renaissance-era buildings.
San Marco (green on the map)
San Marco is the neighborhood just north of the centro storico. The University of Florence, the Accademia museum, and a few lovely gardens are the main sights within the area. It's not as pretty as the historic center, but it offers a convenient location for sightseeing, a more residential feel, and reasonable prices.

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1. Oltrarno

Pros: Wonderful atmosphere, great restaurants and bars, not overly touristy

Cons: On the other side of the river away from the main city center sights

*Piazza di Santo Spirito. Photo:* *Francesco Bini*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Piazza Poggi in San Niccolò, looking north toward central Florence. Photo:* *PROPOLI87*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Just across the Arno River from the Centro Storico/historic center, the Oltrarno is my favorite part of Florence.

Once a predominantly working class area, it’s now much more upscale than it used to be, but it’s still home to many artisans and artists, whose workshops and studios you’ll find all over the neighborhood. It's also a lot greener than central Florence (which is notoriously not green) and much less crowded and busy. While you’ll still find plenty of fellow travelers all over the Oltrarno, it’s significantly less touristy than anywhere else in central Florence.

Thanks to the hills that rise up quickly to the south of the neighborhood, most everything here is stretched out along the river, clustered tightly along its southern banks.

Oltrarno is technically made up of three separate neighborhoods - San Frediano, Santo Spirito, and San Niccolò -, but they’re small and adjacent to each other, so which you stay in doesn't really matter.

Santo Spirito, which sits between Ponte Vecchio and Porta San Frediano, is the area that I think perfectly balances the best of Florence’s many attributes: lots of art and handicrafts, a few major attractions, great restaurants, plenty of nightlife, and an authentic Florentine energy.

San Niccolò, which lies just beneath Piazzale Michelangelo, is a bit more upscale and is home to lots of galleries, artisan workshops, and hip shops and boutiques.

San Frediano, on the west of the area, quickly transitions into a more residential, local area. You’ll still find lots of pretty architecture, as well as shops and restaurants geared toward locals more than tourists. If your goal is to stay somewhere with fewer tourists, this is the area I'd consider.

There are a few major sights in the neighborhood, with Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens being the main ones. But this isn't a neighborhood that you come to for specific sights. Instead, the pleasure is simply to wander and explore the charming streets. Go window shopping, peak your head into a studio and watch an artist work metal or leather, and do some people watching in the pretty squares.

Then, of course, there are the fabulous viewpoints; the view from Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous in Florence, but the one from Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte is even better.

The best walk in Florence is also here; it starts from Porta San Miniato, one of the few remaining gates still connected to the ancient city walls, and climbs past hundreds of olive trees until you reach Forte di Belvedere where you'll have what I consider to be the best view in the city. Walking along the riverfront from Porta San Niccolò to Ponte Vecchio is another of my favorite strolls.

Offering more than just great views and walks, this is also a lively neighborhood filled with places to go out and have fun. All along Borgo San Frediano and Via Santo Spirito you'll find countless places to grab a drink or enjoy a meal. Piazza Santo Spirito is another unmissable spot - the square is surrounded on all sides by bars and restaurants. At night, it's one of the most enjoyable places to be in the city.

Where to stay

Hotel Lungarno - Elegant and refined, with breathtaking views of the Arno and original works of art. Here, Ponte Vecchio is your next-door neighbor, offering a once-in-a-lifetime experience. $500-$1,000 USD per night depending on the season.

Hotel Palazzo Guadagni - A historic building with a spectacular terrace overlooking Piazza Santo Spirito and its church, perfect for relaxing away from tourist crowds while still being steps away from bars and restaurants. $300 per night.

Soprarno Suites - On the top floors of an old mansion and filled with vintage furnishings, this is an appropriately bohemian, albeit luxurious, base in middle of the Oltrarno, the city’s artisan quarter. $250-$300 per night.

Hotel Horto - A 4-star hotel with a contemporary design and a relaxed atmosphere, set within a well-preserved portion of the city's ancient walls. Slightly on the edge of the historic center, offering a quieter and more reserved option. $250 per night.

Serristori Palace - An elegant residence overlooking the Arno, perfect for those wanting to experience Florence in style without really breaking the bank. $250 per night.

Spirit of Florence - A boutique little guesthouse right on Piazza Santo Spirito, the hotel has only a few rooms, which are charmingly decorated and surprisingly spacious. With triples and suites, it’s a great option if traveling in a group. $150-$250.

Hotel Silla - A really good value hotel with pretty rooms near Piazzale Michelangelo. The neighboorhood here feels a bit more local, but is still close to everything. $150-$200 per night.

B&B Il Beatrice - A historic building right next to the Pitti Palace and Piazza Santo Spirito, this is a pleasant little hotel that the owners still actually live in. Good value for a great location. $130-$180 per night.

2. Santa Croce

Pros: Very lively with great nightlife, easy access to Florence’s main sights, local feel in parts

Cons: Can be loud in the evenings, some parts are very touristy

*Piazza di Santa Croce. Photo:* *Chabe01*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Pretty buildings just off Piazza d’Azeglio. Photo:* *I, Sailko*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Santa Croce is the area immediately to the west of the historic center, separated from it by Via dei Benci. It's a lovely and wealthy area of the city with a permanently festive mood. Although more touristy than the Oltrarno, it's not overwhelmingly so, and lots of locals still live here. The architecture here is mostly historic and very pretty, but some parts of are more “modern” (by Florentine standards) than the absolute center, so you’ll also find some newer construction here.

This is a good neighborhood to stay in if you have a decent budget and want to be a quick walk to the main sights of the centro storico, but a bit removed from the biggest crowds. It's also very good for anyone who wants to enjoy some nightlife.

In the north of the neighborhood and away from the river (around the Sant’Ambrogio market - definitely go there for great food!), is quieter, more local, and fairly residential. There are a few nice hotels clustered around the lovely and serene Piazza d'Azeglio. This section of the neighborhood puts you slightly farther from the city center's sights, but offers a nice chance to see local life while still being close to everything, which is rare.

As you get closer to the river, the area becomes more upscale (more touristy too), and you’ll find lots of fun bars and places to go out. The streets and squares here are always lively, especially after dinner, and the stretch of Via dei Benci between the Teatro Verdi and the river is one of my favorite places for an evening stroll and some drinks.

For a night out with the locals, head to Via Pietrapiana/Borgo la Croce (same street, different names), a narrow little street filled with restaurants, bars, and shops, where Florentines are always out until very late at night.

When it comes to sights, the enormous Basilica di Santa Croce is the main one. The beautiful square (Piazza di Santa Croce) on which it sits hosts the historic Calcio Storico match that takes place every year on June 24th. For the event, the square is filled with sand and bleachers are set up, and then a very ancient - and also very violent - version of football is played. It’s a thrill to watch.

Behind the basilica, you can enter through a small alley into the Scuola del Cuoio, a place where artisans and apprentices produce and sell high-quality leather goods. There’s also the Synagogue and Jewish Museum, built in an Arabic style and one of the most important structures of its kind in Europe. And for a bit of art, major museums like the Bargello and Orsanmichele are just a few streets away over in San Giovanni.

For a great view, walk out onto Ponte alle Grazie bridge, which connects Santa Croce with the Oltrarno neighborhood. From the bridge, you get a clear shot of the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge.

Where to stay

Hotel Portrait Firenze - Pure luxury with views of the Arno and Ponte Vecchio, where every detail is meticulously considered for a truly exclusive stay. The prices are way out of reach for basically everyone (me included), but if you can swing it, it’s an incredible hotel. From $1,000 USD per night.

Hotel Bernini Palace - This luxurious and historic palace right behind Piazza della Signoria has elegant rooms and impeccable service. For luxury at a "not insane” price, it's tough to beat. $350-$500 per night.

Hotel Calimala - You can't get more central than this. Surrounded by historic palaces and monuments, this modern boutique hotel with an artistic touch is perfect for those expecting full immersion in Florence's Renaissance history. $300 per night.

La Maison du Sage - An absolutely gorgeous mid-range boutique hotel that is probably my favorite in Santa Croce. The location, adjacent to the Basilica di Santa Croce (with some rooms looking out onto it), is unbeatable. $250-350 per night.

Villa Tortorelli - A historic structure with an elegant atmosphere and beautiful inner gardens, perfect for a romantic and relaxing stay in a slightly more peripheral area of the historic center. $250 per night.

Locanda de Ciomp - A small, cozy inn right in front of one of the city's most energic nightlife streets, ideal for those seeking an authentic experience without giving up tranquility. $150 per night.

Casa Leopardi - Along Via Verdi and just a few blocks from Teatro Verdi and the Sant Ambrogio Market, this is a great budget hotel with an excellent location just a few minutes from all the city center sights but removed enough to be pretty quiet. $100-$150 per night.

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3. San Giovanni/Centro Storico

Pros: All the main attractions are here, gorgeous Renaissance architecture

Cons: Extremely touristy, always crowded, high prices

*Piazza della Reppublica in the historic center. Photo:* *Glenfarclas*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, Via Wikimedia Commons*

*The Piazza della Signoria. Photo:* *Zolli*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

The absolute heart of historic Florence, San Giovanni (more commonly referred to as the Centro Storico - historic center) is where most of the city's great artistic works, monuments, landmarks, museums, churches, and gorgeous buildings are located. It’s almost absurd how much history, art, and architectural splendor is concentrated here, contained within only a few blocks.

The very center of the neighborhood is the area surrounding the Duomo and Piazza della Reppublica and it's heavily pedestrianized, making it very easy to walk around without having to worry about cars.

Simply put, this is the Florence you’ve seen photos of and dreamed about visiting. So, why haven’t I chosen it as my favorite neighborhood?

Well, because it’s overwhelmed with tourists. Almost nobody lives here anymore, and just about everything in the area is focused on tourism. The apartments have all been converted into short-term rentals, many of the restaurants are tourist traps, and it's incredibly crowded from early morning until late in the evening.

I don't want to be overly negative, but what I’m trying to say is that staying here is an act in compromise; the convenience of having all your sightseeing within a few minutes’ walk comes at the cost of being in tourism central.

On the one hand, you’ll be in the heart of Italy’s Renaissance masterpiece, just steps away from the Duomo and Brunelleschi Dome, Piazza della Signoria, Piazza della Repubblica, the Uffizi Gallery, Ponte Vecchio, and countless other marquee sights. For sightseeing and experiencing the glory of Florence, this area simply cannot be beat.

That said, you’ll also be constantly surrounded by huge crowds of other tourists, will have to be careful when choosing restaurants, and will pay the highest prices in the city for accommodation. It’s a tradeoff, but as long as you know what to expect, it’s a perfectly reasonable one.

Whether you choose to stay here or not, I want to share some local tips for when you visit. First, when you're in Piazza della Signoria, stop for a coffee at either Bar Perseo or Rivoire, two historic cafes. They're both wildly overpriced, so just get a coffee or pastry and enjoy the setting. In Piazza della Repubblica you have two other famed cafes: Caffè Paszkowski and Caffè Gilli both of which are terrific for an evening aperitivo.

For another Florentine classic, grab a focaccia at I Fratellini on Via dei Cimatori. And if you find yourself on Via Panicale (near the central market), stop in for a bottle of Chianti Classico wine at the charming Divina Enoteca.

Be sure to also go for a wander down Via Cavour, one of Florence’s grandest streets, lined by monumental buildings and Palaces, like the Palazzo Medici Ricciardi, once home to the Medici Family.

And finally, my favorite place in the entire city: the Medici Chapels. An unbelievably beautiful and ornate building, this is the resting place for members of the famed Florentine family and it showcases their opulence and the extraordinary wealth they amassed.

Where to stay

Il Tornabuoni - A medieval palazzo-turned-hotel, they’ve been welcoming guests for almost 200 years, and these days they are hosted in chic, frescoed surroundings and enjoy a roof terrace high above the city’s most stylish shopping street. $400+ USD.

Palazzo Castri 1874 - A more relaxed option overlooking Piazza Indipendenza, offering a quieter, less crowded environment. Features include a spa and a mix of modern design with classic elements. $300-$400 per night.

Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo - An elegant and historic hotel offering a unique stay with exceptional, personalized hospitality and breathtaking views of the Duomo. $350 per night.

Hotel Spadai - A modern, boutique hotel just steps away from the Duomo and with very comfortable, chic rooms. $250-$400 per night.

B&B Hotel Firenze Laurus al Duomo - A more modern hotel with its main strength being the proximity to the Duomo. It offers spacious rooms at an honest price, with access to a panoramic terrace with one of the most beautiful views of Florence. Prices range from $150-$300 per night.

Hotel Davazanti - Just a few blocks from Ponte Vecchio and in the middle of everything, this is a great budget-ish option in a really good location. Rooms are simple, but pretty nice. $100-250

4. Santa Maria Novella

Pros: More affordable accommodation, pleasantly busy, convenient access to the train station

Cons: Fairly commercial/business oriented, rather crowded, not the best ambiance

*The Valfonda tram stop, just outside Stazione Santa Maria Novella. Photo:* *Chabe01*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Piazza Ognissanti, seen from across the Arno River. Photo:* *Pufui PcPifpef*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Santa Maria Novella (often abbreviated as SMN), on the western side of the historic center (just a couple of minutes’ walk away from the Duomo and other attractions), is where you’ll find the city’s train station, also called Santa Maria Novella. This is a lively commercial hub, filled with businesses, shops, and casual restaurants.

This part of the neighborhood is especially convenient if you’re planning to do any day trips to other parts of Tuscany, and it has a large number of surprisingly affordable hotels. Parts of it are quite nice while others, particularly around the train station, are a a bit grittier than anywhere else I’ve mentioned in this article. If you choose to stay here, it's important to pick the right section.

The southern side of the neighborhood, moving toward the Arno river, is a somewhat newer part of the city center, so it’s a bit more modern and also has good value hotels, as well as what I think is a more pleasant atmosphere. It’s a little less commercial and feels more relaxed. This is where I’d suggest staying.

In general, the neighborhood is more historic and traditionally Florentine the closer you get to the Centro Storico. Approaching the Duomo and Palazzo Strozzi, you start to feel small in front of the large buildings, impressive monuments, and sophisticated and opulent style. Down by the river, the area between Piazza Ognissanti and Palazzo Strozzi is particularly nice.

No matter which part of Santa Maria Novella you choose to stay in, just know that there will be lots of other tourists. The easy access to the train station and super short walk to the historic center's landmarks, along with its relative affordability, make this a perennially popular choice for visitors, especially anyone on a budget.

One of the things I like about this area is that it has fewer “must see” sights than a lot of the rest of the center. I know that feels counterintuitive, but I think it’s nice to be in a neighborhood that isn’t filled with museums or monuments, as it means you can just relax and hang out when you’re there.

When here, I recommend taking a walk beginning around the train station and continuing down Via Panzani, where you can catch a great view of the Duomo. Check out Piazzi degli Antinori too, and then make your way south along Via Tornabuoni, a luxury shopping street that is always "dressed up” with lights and decorations.

Lungarno Vespucci street along the riverfront leads into the leafy Parco delle Cascine park, and is a great spot to start your day with a jog or leisurely stroll.

When its comes to eating, this is actually a really good area, with a lot of charming little spots. Around Piazza Ognisanti there are a number of small streets that are typical of old Florence, each with some great places to grab a bite to eat or enjoy a good drink. My favorites are Trattoria 13 Gobbi, Enoteca Vigna Nuova, and Manifattura.

For a very local experience, in the evening head up to the area around Via Faenza, which is packed with bars and restaurants. It's also home to Il Cantuccio di San Lorenzo, a wonderful pastry shop where I treat myself to a bag of excellent traditional Florentine cantucci (biscuits) anytime I'm in the area.

Of course, no description of this neighborhood would be complete without mentioning the Piazza Santa Maria Novella, where you can enjoy an aperitivo in the evening or lunch during the day, or simply have a coffee with a great view of of one of Florence’s most beautiful churches, the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella.

Where to stay

The St. Regis Florence - If you want to stay in absolute luxury and budget is no issue, this is always one of my top recommendations. Located in front of Piazza Ognissanti, with a terrace overlooking the river, the only thing better than the view is the luxuriousness of the rooms themselves. $1000 USD+ per night.

NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa - Located in the more historical part of the center, where you can even smell the Florentine air. Once you step out of the hotel, you’re fully immersed in the grand palaces of the historic center, and it’s very close to all the major attractions, not only in this neighborhood but also in Santa Croce and San Giovanni. $500 per night.

Hotel L’Orologio - A lovely designer hotel right on Piazza Santa Maria Novella, with a terrace overlooking the church. Steps away from the train station and at the start of Via dei Banchi, which leads you straight to the Duomo. $300-400 per night.

Grand Hotel Baglioni - A large historic hotel in Florence, where great celebrities sometimes stay. The structure is imposing, and being a historic hotel, it offers very attentive and precise service, with the option to choose from multiple onsite restaurants and bars. $150-$300 (big seasonal variation).

Residenza Fiorentina - Basic but adequate 3-star hotel right on Piazza Santa Maria Novella. Good value and close to the river, big sights, and train station. $100-$200 per night.

La Porta del Paradiso - House in a lovely 16th century building on the outer edge of Santa Maria Novella between two lovely gardens, this is a good budget option at $100-$150 per night.

5. San Marco

Pros: Quick walk to everything in the Centro Storico, but quieter and more residential

Cons: Not particularly atmospheric

Piazza Santissima Annunziata in Florence's San Marco neighborhood. — *Piazza SS Annunziata in the San Marco neighborhood. Photo:* *Armin Kleiner*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

The facade of the Santissima Annunziata church in Florence's San Marco neighborhood with bicycles locked out front. — *The facade of the Basilica della Santissima Annuziata. Photo:* *Max_Ryazanov*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

San Marco is the area immediately to the north of San Giovanni and the Centro Storico. Although extremely close to all the main sights, it's significantly less touristy and a fair deal more residential. While still historic and pleasant, the architecture and atmosphere here are not as charming as the other neighborhoods I've discussed.

This is a good choice if you want to be walking distance to all the main sights but with fewer crowds and better prices and are ok sacrificing a bit of ambience to get it.

The neighborhood begins as you leave the centro storico and cross Via Guelfa/Via degli Alfani and it stretches up to the SS67 ring road. The main sight in the area is the Accademia Gallery, where Michelangelo's famous "David” is on display. The Unveristà degli Studi di Firenze is also here, and you'll always see students coming and going from their classes.

The atmosphere is fun and lively during the day, but rather sleepy in the evenings. That said, there are plenty of restaurants around for dinner, most of which cater to local residents.

To be totally accurate, what I’ve identified as San Marco actually also includes two other neighborhoods - San Lorenzo and SS Anunziata - it's essentially all the same area and I don’t find distinguishing between them to be useful.

Piazza San Marco is known for its beautiful church (Basilica di San Marco) that hosts organ performances and, if you’re lucky, you'll be able to catch a show while you're here. The lovely Botanical Gardens and Gherardesca Gardens are also in the neighborhood.

Where to stay

Four Seasons Firenze - If you've got money to burn, you won't find a better hotel in Florence. The rooms are historic, elegant, and full of character, there's a Michelin starred restaurant on-site, you get access to your own private gardens, and a full service spa. $1,000-2,000 USD.

Corte Guelfa - For a nice blend of modern comfort and vintage charm, this is a very pleasant hotel. It's excellently located near the San Lorenzo market, perfect for stepping out and exploring places to eat and drink. $150-300 USD.

Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti - Up in a quieter part of San Marco, this is a former monastery from the 16th century that’s loaded with old world character. $150-300 USD.

Reisdenza San Gallo 79 - A very nicely renovated B&B just a quick walk north of the Duomo area. Rooms are big and bright, with high ceilings. $100-200 USD.