How to Spend 3 Days in Milan - A Local's Itinerary
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Milan has been my home for over two decades, and as with many who initially came for a short stay and ended up staying for good, I’ve found that it’s a city that quietly wins you over. I originally came here to work in fashion, thinking I’d stay a year or two, but Milan had other plans. Over time, I’ve walked nearly every corner of this city, sipped too many espressos to count, and ducked into almost every gallery and hidden courtyard.
At first glance, Milan might not be as showy as Rome or as picture-perfect as Venice, but give it a moment and it begins to reveal itself - through the echo of footsteps in the Galleria, the clinking of glasses in the Navigli canal district at sunset, or the silence under the vaulted roof of the Duomo. It’s a city that rewards those who pay attention.
Milan is also constantly evolving. Between Fashion Week, Design Week, pop-up shops and new openings, there’s always something happening. And true to its reputation, the essence of Milanese life remains rooted in elegance, efficiency, and understated charm. It’s a city where history and innovation walk side by side (often in great, leather-crafted shoes), and it’s somewhere that’s hard to tire of.
Now, because Milan doesn’t have as many marquee sights as some other Italian cities, a visit here isn’t usually about ticking off the mandatory monuments and museums. Rather, you need to decide what you’re interested in and what you’re looking to get from Milan, and then seek out the places that will give you that. I find this to be super liberating, because it frees you from the guilt of “having” to visit the Colosseum or “needing” to tour the Uffizi Gallery, for instance.
So, with this 3-day itinerary I’ve put together a plan that mixes in many lesser-known treasures and lots of places that I love and visit regularly. You’ll see the classics, of course - the Duomo, La Scala, Da Vinci’s Last Supper - but I’ve also included some quieter moments and personal favorites: a secret garden in the heart of Brera, a great spot for Milanese risotto that we locals swear by, and an elegant rooftop that’s perfect for a cozy romantic meal.
Whether you're coming for culture, shopping, food, or simply out of curiosity, I hope this guide helps you see Milan through my eyes. And who knows - maybe you’ll fall for it too.
Table of Contents
Itinerary overview
Day 1: The historic center
For your first day here, I’ve planned a big morning of sightseeing around Milan’s historical center, starting at the Duomo Cathedral, crossing through Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Italy’s oldest shopping gallery, and then visiting one of the world’s great Opera houses - La Scala.
Afterwards, you’ll visit the impressive Sforza Castle, before making your way through the bougie Brera neighborhood, making a stop at a secret garden and the Pinacoteca di Brera, where you can see works by masters such as Mantegna, Raphael, Caravaggio, and many more.
In the evening, sit back and enjoy a candlelit dinner on a cozy terrace overlooking a quiet piazza.
Day 2: Art, fashion, and modern Milan
On day two, I’ve planned a day of two distinct halves: you’ll start things off traditionally with visits to a few historic places that showcase incredible art from centuries ago, and will then move forward through time to the present day, discovering why Milan is considered one of the world's most stylish and creative cities.
Your first visit is one of the big ones: Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper and the adjacent church. Afterward, a lesser-known treasure of Milan awaits; a small church with vaulted ceilings and frescos only comparable to those seen at the Vatican.
With the classics done and dusted, it’s now time to get a sense for Milanese style. So you’ll make your way to an incredibly gorgeous and sumptuous villa, and will then (window) shop your way through the city’s fashion and architectural districts.
Finally, finish the day with a home-style meal and enjoy some “movida Italiana” (nightlife) in the Porta Romana neighborhood.
Day 3: Parks, canals, and vintage style
On your last day here, it’s time to relax and kick back like a local, enjoying our great urban parks and the everyday scene. Milan is determined to become Europe’s greenest city and aims to have 3 million trees planted by 2030, and is already well on its way.
Start your day at the Arch of Peace and then walk through Sempione Park where you can get a bird’s eye view of the city from a panoramic tower. The park is also home to the Triennale, Milan’s most prestigious design museum, a very pretty bridge, and an architectural gem. There’s a lot to see and do here.
For lunch, foodies will love getting a bite to eat at the original Peck deli and browsing its groceries. From there, you’ll make your way to Navigli, the canal district, and will spend the rest of the afternoon and evening exploring this charming area’s canals, little side streets, and shops.
Things to know when planning your visit
Before we get into the itinerary, I just want to quickly address two of your likely big questions as you plan out your time in Milan: where to stay and how to get around the city.
So here we go:
Where to stay
The city center: Staying anywhere in the city center puts you in the heart of all the action and mostly within walking distance of everywhere you’re likely to visit. The neighborhoods of Duomo, Brera, and Castello are the most central and they each have a good selection of hotels and are well-served by public transportation.
The only real downside is that they’re the most expensive areas for accommodation.
Central Station and NoLo: The neighborhood around Milan’s central train station is an especially convenient base if you plan to day any day trips outside the city and/or if you have an early airport departure (it offers direct access to the airport). It’s considered pretty touristy by locals, but Milan is almost never overwhelmed by tourism and there are still some great pubs and restaurants in the area.
NoLo is a lovely residential neighborhood north of Piazza Loreto and it’s a really nice place to stay if you want to get a sense for local life. There are few hotels here though, so you’ll have to get an short-term apartment rental.
Porta Romana: In ancient times, Milan was a Roman settlement surrounded by tall stone walls. There are only a handful of Roman Arches still standing, one of which is the Porta Romana, and it is the epicenter of this pleasant residential neighborhood.
Milan’s commercial and residential areas are divided by a ring road (which runs along where the ancient Roman walls once stood), with the downtown/more commercial areas lying inside the ring, and the residential parts outside it. Porta Romana begins right on the edge of the ring road/wall, and it’s a great area with an easy-going vibe and small pockets of very fun nightlife.
Transportation and getting around
Milan's city center is very walkable, so you’ll ultimately be able to get everywhere on foot for this itinerary. But any time you don’t feel like walking, just know that the city is well-served by a fairly comprehensive and easy to navigate metro and tram system. Between them, they’ll get you anywhere you want to go.
Milan also has some iconic vintage-style trams still running, and you’ll find those on lines 1, 5 and 10. It’s fun to take a ride on them even if you’re not actually trying to go anywhere.
When it comes to buying tickets, all public transportation rides can be purchased via the official ATM Milano app, at ticket vending machines and newsstands, or by swiping your credit card at the turnstiles.
There are also plenty of taxis here, but they’re only available at dedicated taxi stations and can’t be flagged down on the street. You can also use apps like itTaxi, FreeNow, and TaxiMilano4040 to book rides. And while Uber is not operative in Italy like it is in other countries, you can use it to book an Uber Black for airport transfers and group rides.
Day 1: The historic heart of Milan
Morning
The Duomo
Milan’s Duomo is the iconic symbol of the city, so it is without question where you should start your first day here. The Duomo is literally the heart of Milan - all streets radiate out from it and create rings around it like a web. It’s also the third largest cathedral in the world, took over five hundred years to complete, and is adorned with over three thousand statues.
This is one of the world's most magnificent places of worship and the artisanship is incredible, especially the stained-glass windows, which are amongst the finest in the world.
Before Milan became a travel destination, the Duomo was free and I used to go inside on very hot days to cool off or pass the time between appointments. Today, you must have a ticket, but it’s well worth the ten euros to see the inside.
Before you go in, make sure to look closely at its exterior central balcony though, where you’ll see a small Statue of Liberty. It was actually sculpted seventy years before the one found in New York and is said to be its inspiration. A neat little factoid for you.
After touring the inside of the cathedral, head up to its rooftop terraces, from where you’ll have incredible city views and can even see the Alps in the distance on clear days. It’ll take a climb up 500 stone steps to reach the top, or you can take the elevator if you’re feeling a little lazy.
There’s also a dedicated museum across the street that provides an in-depth look at the history and construction of the Duomo, in case you’re interested.
The complex really is enormous, so I’d suggest setting aside about two hours if you intend to tour the inside and head up on the terraces.
Milan’s iconic Duomo and main square
Visitors atop the roof of the Duomo. Photo: Daniel Case, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Just to your right-hand side as you exit the Duomo is the delightful Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. This 19th-century shopping arcade has been dubbed “il salotto di Milano” (Milan’s living room) due to its longstanding popularity as a meeting point. It’s the city center’s hub for luxury boutiques and elegant cafés and its beautiful glass dome is always a wonderful sight.
My fashionista friends love checking out the high-end designer boutiques here like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Borsalino, but the most historic of them is the original Prada store, which opened in 1913. It was here where Mario and Martino Prada helped partisan rebels during WWII by designing unique bags with secret compartments to hide documents.
Within the gallery, there are also some gorgeously designed cafes with tempting pastry displays, but be warned, a coffee and croissant can cost up to 30 euros!
The Gallery isn’t just for shopping and absurdly priced pastries though; it’s a main pedestrian thoroughfare through the city and is great for people watching. Spotting the tourists is always easy, as you‘ll find them beneath the central dome spinning on the mosaic bull for good luck.
Another fun thing to do while here is to head up above the shops and walk along the Highline, the steel catwalks that cross over the glass-top gallery.
And although Leonardo Da Vinci had nothing to do with building the gallery, there is a dedicated museum of his work - Leonardo3 - that can be found at the north entrance. There are full size replicas of some of his inventions and artwork, and kids always really love it.
Shoppers wandering through the Galleria Vottorio Emanuele II
La Scala Opera House
Just outside the north entrance of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is Piazza della Scala, home to La Scala, one of the world’s most renowned opera houses. Built in 1778, this is a majestic structure and a pillar of Milan’s cultural scene. Even if you’re not a classical music aficionado, you can’t miss it.
While the venue itself can only be visited during a show or guided tour, it also has a good museum that holds a collection of musical instruments, costumes, and original scores by the artists, composers, and divas who have graced the stage.
It’s a nice way to spend an hour and see something unique to the city. If you want to see a show, tickets for performances can be purchased at the box office or online.
La Scala, during the inauguration of the 2022-2023 season. Photo: Quirinale.it, Attribution, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon
Lunch at Dodici Gatti Pizzeria
For lunch, head back to the Galleria for a meal at I Dodici Gatti Pizzeria. Here you can dine atop the Highline terrace above the Galleria’s glass dome (it’s very popular so you should book in advance).
And in case you’re curious, it’s called Dodici Gatti (twelve cats) because there is a protected colony of black cats living on the rooftops of the gallery.
Alternatively, another great choice is the rooftop Bistrot, which sits atop the La Rinascente department store overlooking the Duomo’s terraces. Or, you’d like to try some Milanese street food, go around the corner to Luini’s, a walk-in panzerotti (pizza pockets) shop. It’s a bit touristy, so expect a line.
A stroll down Via Dante
After lunch, work off some of those calories with a stroll down the pedestrian-friendly Via Dante. Along the way, stop at Piazza Mercanti, a small hidden square partially covered with domed arches. If two people are standing on opposite corners, they can communicate with each other by facing the wall and whispering into it. The sound travels up the curve of the arch to the other side! It’s fun to try.
Pedestrianized Via Dante, just in front of Sforza Castle. Photo: FlavMi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Piazza Mercanti. Photo: Luca Volpi (Goldmund100), CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Sforza Castle
Continue heading down Via Dante until you reach Sforza Castle. The castle has a really special place in my heart because when I was studying art in Milan back in my 20’s, classes were held in the western wing and I spent a ton of my time here. Every time I pass by, I think back to those wonderful years.
Once the ducal residence of Francesco Sforza, this fourteenth-century castle was originally a defensive fortification with a moat and drawbridges. Then, during Napoleon's rule, it was used as a military base. Today, a wing of the castle houses the Civic Museum, and you’ll also find a few other interesting things: a newly restored fresco by Leonardo da Vinci, a medieval armory, and an Egyptian artifact museum. The most moving piece of the museum is the “Rondanini Pietà,” Michelangelo’s last and still-unfinished masterpiece.
Another cool thing to do at the castle is head up on the battlements. It was also recently reported that a team of historians have deciphered Leonardo’s Codex Forster I and have found secret underground tunnels beneath the castle. They’re not open to the public yet, but hopefully soon!
The Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco in Italian). Photo: Gpaolo, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A wander through Brera and the Pinacoteca di Brera Gallery
Whenever you’re ready to leave the castle, make your way to Via Fiori Chiari, a pedestrianized street that will bring you into the Brera art district where you can wander through cobblestone streets lined with art galleries and boutiques. It’s both chic and bohemian, and you’ll see art students of the nearby Brera Academy carrying backpacks and strange packages, most likely with their books and artwork in tow.
While here, take at least an hour or so to visit the esteemed Pinacoteca di Brera art gallery, which preserves masterpieces by Mantegna, Raphael, and Caravaggio. In the center of the building is a glass-walled restoration lab where you can see historians in white coats and goggles restoring works of art. It’s inspiring to see the dedication and detail they put into their work.
Via Fiori Chiari in Brera. Photo: FlavMi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Via Madonnina in Brera. Photo: MarkusMark, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The wonderful Pinacoteca di Brera. Photo: Danielle Jansen, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Brera Botanical Garden
Just a ten-minute walk away is a hidden garden, the Milan University Brera Botanical Garden. Entrance is free, but donations are happily accepted. It’s a true oasis of peace and quiet in the hustle and bustle of Milan. Even if you just take a quick walk through it, it’s a wonderful place to recharge.
Brera’s botanical garden in the fall. Photo: Danielle Jansen, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening
Aperitivo time in Brera
It should be early evening by now, and in Italy, any time after 5:00 PM is aperitivo time, so do like the Italians and get ready to eat and drink. Lots of bars offer a drink and snack tray around this time for a fixed price (typically 10-15 euros) and it’s always lively and a lot of fun. If you want to drink like a local, order Campari and soda, L’americano, Spritz, or a non alcoholic drink like Crodino or Lemon Soda.
The stylish Caffè Fernanda, located inside the Pinacoteca di Brera, is always a good choice. Named after Fernanda Wittgens, the director of the museum 1940 to 1957 (and the first female director of a museum in Italy), it’s perfect for a pre-dinner drink surrounded by art.
Alternatively, if you want to wander a bit more, just take your pick; the Brera area and main road of Corso Garibaldi are full of cute wine bars and pubs.
Dinner at Clotilde Brera
For a cozy and romantic dinner, book a table at Clotilde Brera. The restaurant has a warm atmosphere and a lovely candlelit terrace overlooking Piazza San Marco, one of the Brera district’s many lovely squares. The ambiance is simply wonderful and it’s well worth the splurge (it’s pricy).
Day 2: Art, fashion, and modern Milan
Morning
The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci
Start your day with an unforgettable experience by visiting Leonardo Da Vinci’s Last Supper at the Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie. Da Vinci lived in Milan from 1482 to 1499 and it was during the end of his time here that he painted this masterpiece. His apartment was in the building just across the street.
And although Leonardo’s Milan was very different from the modern one today, I still like coming to this neighborhood and imagining that I’m walking in his footsteps.
To see the masterpiece, you’ll need to book tickets in advance (sometimes weeks ahead), but it’s worth planning for. The viewing is limited to 15 minutes per group, and any amount of time with this legendary painting is truly fascinating. Even if you’re not religious or if you think this type of thing is cliché, it’s worth it.
Da Vinci’s “The Last Supper”. Photo: Joyofmuseums, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Sistine Chapel of Milan
Just a few minutes' walk away is a lovely little surprise: the Church of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore. Some call it the “Sistine Chapel of Milan”, and when you walk in, you’ll understand why; every inch of the walls are covered in vibrant Renaissance frescoes.
I don’t understand why, but despite how beautiful it is, very few people make it here and it’s often quiet and calm, making it feel like your own little sanctuary.
The incredibly beautiful interior of the Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore. Photo: Zairon, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Palazzo Morando Fashion Museum
After an incredible infusion of historic art so far this morning, make a pleasant 15-minute walk over to Palazzo Morando on Via Sant’Andrea for something a bit more contemporary. This used to be a noble residence, but is now a museum dedicated to Milanese fashion, and the permanent exhibition shows Milan’s history and development through the lens of art and style.
Other exhibitions rotate regularly, so you might also catch a vintage couture exhibit or a deep dive into the evolution of Milanese aesthetics. It’s elegant, interesting, and not as crowded as the bigger museums.
The interior courtyard of the Palazzo Morando. Photo: Lauraderiu, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon
Villa Necchi Campiglio
After a morning filled with art and culture, let’s now take a breather and enjoy lunch in one of Milan’s most peaceful corners: just a ten-minute walk from Palazzo Morando is a wonderful café that’s housed inside the gardens of the gorgeous Villa Necchi Campiglio.
The villa’s gardens are lovely the cafe is surrounded by trees, light, and a sense of calm that you rarely find in a big city. They serve nice options for a light lunch, as well as coffee and cakes.
After lunch, I’d suggest visiting the Villa itself. I first learned about it from a friend who volunteers for FAI - the Italian National Trust - which is the nonprofit that preservs the Villa. Designed by the architect Piero Portaluppi for the Necchi heiresses, the Villa perfectly showcases early 20th-century Milanese luxury with its 1930’s décor perfectly preserved, complete with the original furnishings, elegant bathrooms, and even an indoor tennis court.
I love the way each room leads to another room creating an endless flow through the house. The spaciousness and details simply scream extravagance, and anyone who has seen the film I Am Love with Tilda Swinton will instantly recognize it.
Guided tours leave every 30 minutes or so, and you can get your tickets at the door or online.
Quadrilatero della Moda Fashion District
From the Villa, it’s a short walk to the Quadrilatero della Moda, Milan’s famous fashion district. Start your wandering here on Via della Spiga, which will then lead you to Via Gesù and on to the infamous Via Montenapoleone. Here, you’ll find an absurd collection of the most luxurious boutiques in the world.
Milan made its name as the city of fashion and this is where it all started. Back in the 1800’s this area was the high-end commerce center for jewelers such as Bucellati and antiquities dealers like Faraone. Later, as the era of “Made in Italy” took over and Italian fashion exploded, Italian stylists opened their ateliers and boutiques in the neighborhood. It’s been a hub for fashion ever since.
Even if clothing and fashion isn’t really your thing, window shopping here is like walking through an open-air museum of style and pop culture. You don’t need to buy anything or care about the latest trends to appreciate it.
And if you happen to visit during fashion week, there’s a special buzz in the air and you’ll very likely spot some celebrities.
Now, for any readers who are fashionistas (or would like to be!), make sure to also check out Corso Buenos Aires, Corso Como, and the Serravalle Designer Outlet. You’ll find tons of great designers and styles at all of them.
A stretch of Via Montenapoleone. Photo: FlavMi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Pedestrianized Via della Spiga during the holiday period. Photo: FlavMi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Porta Nuova district - modern Milan
To round out the afternoon, head toward the Porta Nuova district. To get there, I’d suggest hopping on Metro Line 5 (the Purple Line) and getting off at the “Isola” stop. Once you’ve arrived, make a beeline for the Bosco Verticale, the plant-clad towers designed by Stefano Boeri that have come to symbolize modern Milan.
While you’re in the area, stroll through the BAM (Biblioteca degli Alberi) as well, a contemporary urban park filled with over 135,000 plant species, shaded paths, and places to sit and just take it all in. It’s one of the city’s most exciting examples of how nature and architecture can harmoniously co-exist. Just be aware that I don’t recommend it if you suffer from allergies - I can’t go anywhere near it unless I’ve taken a hay fever tablet!
The Unicredit building and Bosco Verticale towers (on the right) in the Porta Nuova district. Photo: Angelino1975, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Looking out on the skyscrapers of the Porta Nuova district. Photo: https://www.pexels.com/u/ghostpresenter/, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening
Dinner at DOT Chianti and some “Movida Italiana” in Porta Romana
After a full day of walking, art, and fashion, it’s time to eat, and the Porta Romana neighborhood is the place to be for that. On a personal note, this is the area where I fell in love. I met my husband at an aperitivo with friends in this neighborhood, so it holds a special place in my heart.
And one of my favorite restaurants here is DOT Chianti, on Via Orti. With a relaxed atmosphere, this is a great spot that serves homestyle Tuscan cuisine but with a Milanese aura. Fresh pasta, hearty soups, and classics like Peposo and a carafe of Chianti (of course) are the perfect way to unwind. It’s always popular with locals, so you should probably make a reservation.
If you still have some energy after dinner, wander over to Lacerba QuiSiBeve for a nightcap. It’s cool and kitsch at the same time, and is one of those places that’s hard to describe but easy to love. It’s a mix of an artist’s studio, a tiki bar, and vintage Milan. Fun, friendly, and full of character, just like the city itself.
Day 3: Milan like a local - parks, canals, and vintage style
Morning
Arco della Pace
On your final day in Milan, start things off at the Arco della Pace (Arch of Peace), which sits at the top end of Parco Sempione and is one of Milan’s most underrated monuments. Although it looks like something out of ancient Rome, what you see today is actually credited to Napoleon, who wanted Milan to have its own version of the Arc de Triomphe.
The square around the arch is usually quiet in the morning, perfect for photos or just soaking in the surroundings before the city fully wakes up.
The Arco della Pace. Photo: Jean-Christophe BENOIST, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Parco Sempione
Now head directly into Parco Sempione, Milan’s most beloved park. It was once the private garden of the Sforza Castle, and it still feels like a secret escape in the middle of the city. The paved paths wind past shady trees, fountains, and a few surprises.
For a bird’s-eye view of the park and the Milan skyline, head to Torre Branca. In less than a minute, an elevator will take you up 109 meters to a glass-encased panoramic platform overlooking the entire city. You’ll have 15 minutes to take in the view. It’s quick, but a fun, off-beat thing to do.
Art and design lovers should be sure to pop into the Triennale Design Museum, tucked in the park near the tower. It’s Milan’s most prestigious design museum, with rotating exhibitions that celebrate Italian creativity. An hour is enough time to see the collection but there’s also a beautiful café and bookshop if you feel like hanging out.
Before leaving the park, cross the enchanting Mermaid Bridge. Legend says that crossing the bridge with your significant other means you will be destined to stay together forever. It’s worth a shot, isn’t it?!
Afterwards, follow the signs to the Civic Aquarium, which is small and a bit old-school, but charming in its own way. It’s especially nice if you’re traveling with kids or just want a cool, quiet spot in the shade. Built in 1906, the exterior is a beautiful example of Liberty architecture.
A section of Parco Sempione with the Sforza Castle behind it. Photo: Alessandro Perazzoli, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Torre Branca. Photo: Webverbesserer~commonswiki, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Artwork outside the Triennale Design Museum. Photo: Photograph by Mike Peel (www.mikepeel.net)., CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Mermaid Bridge (Ponte delle Sironette) in Parco Sempione. Photo: Pmk58, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon
Lunch at Peck
After all that walking, treat yourself to something delicious at Peck. This isn’t your average deli; Peck is a Milanese institution. Now found worldwide, the original location is just a 10-minute walk or a short metro ride away from the park, in the financial district.
You can eat at their café upstairs or pick up a few gourmet items at the deli counter, which is heaven for food lovers: cheeses, cured meats, pastries, and freshly prepared dishes to go.
Il Dito statue - a unique “Fuck you”
While you’re in the neighborhood, just a few steps away from Peck is Piazza Affari, where you can see L.O.V.E by Maurizio Cattelan, a.k.a. Il Dito (the Finger).
Aptly named, this is a statue of a giant middle finger and it stands opposite the Italian Stock Exchange. It’s kind of poetic, isn’t it?
The “Il Dito” statue. Photo: Chabe01, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Navigli - the historic canal district
After lunch, make your way to the Navigli District, one of Milan’s most atmospheric and colorful neighborhoods. You can take the green metro line to Porta Genova and walk five minutes to the main canal.
The Navigli are Milan’s historic canals. Much like Venice, Milan had a full canal network designed in part by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, only two main canals remain: Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese. The canals were once used for bathing and washing.
While you wander, be on the lookout for the small hut with a large stone sink about 240 meters from the corner of Viale Gorizia. This is an ancient Lavatoio - wash house. Historically, elegance was associated with cleanliness, and the wealthy were able to have their clothes washed frequently, which is why this is here.
Just behind the Lavatoio is a small alley with art studios and galleries that you can visit.
Navigli is beautiful at all times of the day, but I’ve suggested that you come here in the afternoon because this is when it’s quieter and I think is the perfect time for wandering and discovering the little vintage shops, independent bookstores, and hidden art galleries. There's a delightfully bohemian vibe here, especially on the side streets that branch off from the canals.
Whenver you get thirst or hungry, stop for a coffee or gelato at one of the many cafés that line the waterfront. And if you happen to be here on the last Sunday of the month, you’ll find the streets and lanes along the promenade converted into an open-air antique and vintage market.
Naviglio Grande. Photo: Flavmi, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Naviglio Pavese. Photo: PFAnythingGoes, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Evening
Aperitivo at Mag Cafe
Start your evening with an aperitivo at Mag Café, one of the most stylish cocktail spots in the Navigli area. The bartenders here are known for their creativity, and the atmosphere is very vintage. Try one of their signature drinks or let them surprise you.
Dinner at Posto di Conversazione
When you’re ready for dinner, head to Posto di Conversazione, a warm and inviting restaurant serving traditional Lombard dishes. If you haven’t tried Risotto alla Milanese (rice with saffron) or Cotoletta Milanese (crispy veal cutlet), this is the perfect place to do so.
Some post-dinner nightlife in Navigli
After dinner, don’t rush back to the hotel. The Navigli nightlife is just getting started. Pubs and wine bars stay open late, many with live music or DJ sets. The whole area sparkles with string lights, lively conversation, and clinking glasses. Whether you’re up for dancing, sipping wine by the water, or just strolling hand in hand, Navigli is the place to be.
A lively evening in Navigli. Photo: Spens03, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Optional 4th day - Lake Como
If you have time in your itinerary, a day trip or an extended stay in Lake Como is always a good option, especially if you’re already in Milan.
Trains depart frequently from Milan to both Como and Lecco, the main cities on the lake. If possible, try to avoid the early morning and evening trains though, as they’re commuter trains and are almost always packed.
Now, once you get to the lake, unless you pan on staying here for multiple days, steer clear of the touristy towns like Bellagio and Varenna, which have lost a lot of their charm.
Much better is to opt for visiting places like Moltrasio, Argegno, Mandello del Lario, or Colico. Although they’re a bit more difficult to get to, they’ll give you a much better feeling of what life along Lake Como is really lake.
And no matter where you end up, make sure to go for a boat ride, visit one of the lush lakeside gardens, and try Risotto al Persico (rice with perch) or Misultin (sundried and salted agone) with polenta.
Buon viaggio, and safe travels!
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For even more advice on planning your trip to Italy, have a look at some of our other guides and itineraries!
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