How to Spend 3 Days in Venice - A Local's Itinerary
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Although I now spend more time in the mountains of the Dolomites than the islands of the Venetian lagoon, I grew up in Venice and have lived there on and off for my entire life. It will always be home.
And despite the never-ending crowds, every time I'm here - to visit family and friends, catch a new exhibition, or just to enjoy a wonderful meal - I fall back in love with my city.
Now, before I get into a plan for 3 days here, I think it's necessary to touch on the topic of tourism, and over-tourism really. Venice is still wonderful, but it is also a cautionary tale of what can happen when a stunning place throws open the gates to visitors with almost wanton abandon and little consideration for the locals that live there or the people coming to visit.
Massive cruise ships in the middle of the Grand Canal, shoulder-to-shoulder crowds packed into Saint Mark's square, and tourist trap restaurants charging 1,000 euros for a lobster… These are just some of the images of a city well and truly sacrificed upon the altar of mass tourism.
If that paragraph has you wide-eyed and worried about your upcoming trip, don't be. Despite the over-tourism, the city maintains a unique and surreal beauty that you can find nowhere else. "La Serenissima” (meaning The Most Serene), as the city has long been called, is a place that immensely rewards visitors who put in the effort to visit it smartly. With some good planning - and some good advice from a local - you'll understand why this city of islands has been one of the world's most sought after destinations for centuries.
So, the itinerary I'll be sharing with you here is intended for first-time visitors who want to see Venice's highlights, but in a way that doesn't feel so overcrowded and so manufactured.
I've created a 3-day plan that covers the iconic landmarks of the city, but also encourages you to check out some places that most visitors skip. With the occasional ride on a vaporetto (ferry), the itinerary is easily walked and it visits all the different sestieri (neighborhoods), making detours to many of my personal favorite restaurants, cafes, and bars as well as great viewpoints, pretty squares, and lots more.
Shall we take a look? Andiamo!
Table of Contents
Itinerary overview
Day 1
Take the entire morning to see Venice's marquee highlights all around Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square). After lunch, move into the Castello neighborhood for a quieter wander away from the crowds, checking out some curious sights, little-visited churches, canal-side esplanades, and the leafy Biennale Gardens. In the evening, finish the day overlooking the sea with a spritz in hand on the island of Lido.
Day 2
Begin the day with a leisurely walk through a series of squares (and over a bunch of pretty bridges) within the Dorsoduro neighborhood. Your walk will eventually bring you into the area that surrounds the Accademia Gallery and the Rialto bridge, where you should visit one of the amazing museums and a few iconic churches. Your afternoon and evening will be spent exploring my favorite part of the city, the youthful and local neighborhood of Cannaregio where you'll stay for an aperitivo and dinner.
Day 3
Today, you'll leave the main island behind and go check out 3 of Venice's other islands, Murano, Burano, and Torcello. Each of these islands offers something distinct from the other and visiting them all provides a well-rounded picture of the entire city of Venice. You'll have time in the evening for a great goodbye dinner back in Venice proper.
How many days do you need?
This is a 3-day itinerary, so it wouldn't be much use to you if my answer to this question was "3 days isn't nearly enough!” But honestly, I think 3 days is pretty good for a first visit, especially if you're coming as part of a longer trip around Italy and trying to fit lots of cities into just 7, 10, or 14 days.
Venice is a small city and 3 days is enough time to get a good idea for the place. You'll be able to see the most famous attractions, check out a few museums, explore some quieter corners and neighborhoods, and experience a bit of local life. You'll also get to see the islands of Murano and Burano and have some "cushion” to make changes to the itinerary should an afternoon's plans go up in smoke, like when you discover a canal-side enoteca and find yourself content to linger over a fine glass of wine and an even finer view. After all, Venice is a place that deserves to be savored.
Although cruise ship passengers visit for just a day and plenty more people stop over for only 2, I think both are way too rushed. All a one-day visit lets you do is push your way through packed crowds and wait in long lines. You see some highlights, but you barely get to see any of the actual city. 2 days is better, but doesn't leave any time for leisure.
So, 3 days is really the sweet spot for a first visit. It lets you actually enjoy the city instead of rushing through it and it gives you enough time to escape the crowds, which you'll find is important.
For those with a particular interest in the city's history or cultural attractions, you may find that 4 or 5 days is even better. Venice is also in a reasonable position from which to go on some good day trips to the surrounding Veneto region - like to Padova, Vicenza, Treviso, or Bassano del Grappa.
How to get around
Despite comprising over 100 islands and being cut up by almost 200 canals, Venice is a totally walkable city. The central part of the city - the "main island” (which is actually 6 islands connected by little bridges) - is quite small, and no two points within it are more than 45 minutes from each other.
However, because the city's layout is labyrinthine and exceedingly confusing, you'll inevitably find yourself needing to use vaporettos (ferries) at times to get around. You also have private water taxis as well as gondolas. However, gondolas are for scenic leisure rides, not for getting around. Both they and water taxis are also exorbitantly expensive.
Ferries run regularly from 5:00 am until midnight. Then from midnight you have night vaporettos which run every hour.
If arriving to Venice by train, there is a vaporetto hub directly in front of the train station with ferries departing to different parts of the city. If coming from Marco Polo airport (which is on the mainland), there's a dedicated line (called Alilaguna) that has 3 separate routes, all stopping in different parts of the city.
A single vaporetto ticket - which is valid for unlimited rides taken within 75 minutes - costs 9.50 euros. The Alilaguna airport route is not included within this scheme and one-way tickets cost 15 euros.
To check ferry routes and timetables, download the Che Bateo app (though you can also use it in your browser).
If you'll be in the city for a few days (which you will be if you're reading this itinerary) and plan on using the ferries frequently, you should get a 3-day transport pass which costs 45 euros and gives you unlimited vaporetto rides throughout the main islands as well as ones located further away in the lagoon, like Murano and Burano. You can buy 1 and 2-day passes as well. Buy your tickets via the official transport provider here.
Day or multi-day passes are good value if you'll be on the move a lot. They're also just nice to have for those moments when you get lost and don't feel like fighting with your Google Maps (which does not work well here) and can therefore hop on a vaporetto without having to think about the cost.
That said, don't only rely on vaporettos. Venice is a city that begs to be walked and, with the total absence of traffic, it's a pleasure to do so. Many treasures are discovered when you take a "wrong” turn down an alleyway or onto yet another dead end…
Where to stay
Considering that Venice is an island, and a relatively small one at that, you'll be walking distance to everywhere else no matter where you stay. Also, let's be honest, you're not going to find any "local” or “authentic” area as everywhere in the city has been touched by tourism.
Having said that, certain neighborhoods maintain more local flavor while others can feel like Disneyland. In general, my recommendation is to stay in Cannaregio which is close to the train station and popular with students and locals. It's also one of the first ferry stops when coming from the airport. I also quite like Dorsoduro. Castello is best if you want to be away from the crowds. I only recommend staying in overcrowded San Marco if you have extremely limited time and/or are booking an extremely luxurious hotel.
For a more detailed guide to choosing the right neighborhood for you (and a good hotel within it) check out my article on where to stay in Venice.
Day 1 - Piazza San Marco & the highlights, an afternoon in Castello, and sunset in Lido
On the morning of your first day, enjoy Venice's absolute highlights, visiting the "heart”of the city and the iconic monuments surrounding Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square).
In the afternoon, you'll move toward the neighborhood of Castello, a much quieter and more local part of the city where you'll get a welcome break from the crowds of San Marco.
In the evening, take a vaporetto ride over to the island of Lido and have a beachfront aperitivo while looking out at the Adriatic Sea.
Piazza San Marco, the Campanile bell tower, and the Doge's Palace seen from across the Grand Canal
Morning
Piazza San Marco
Let's start off with a classic: Piazza San Marco ( St. Mark's Square). This is surely the most famous place in Venice and one of the most famous in all of Italy and Europe. An absolutely stunning square surrounded by many of Venice's marquee sights, no first visit to Venice is complete without standing here and gazing around you in awe.
Lining the Piazza and just a few steps off of it are an absolute wealth of Venice's most beautiful sights. Rather than tell you which specific ones to visit, I've listed the major ones below so that you know what your options are and can choose what interests you most.
Keep in mind that all these sights open between 9:00 and 10:00 am and you will absolutely want to be there right at opening hour to avoid the worst of the crowds.
Buying tickets in advance is a must when in Venice and keep in mind that you'll need to select a specific entrance time when you purchase. If you plan to visit multiple sights - like Saint Mark's Basilica, the Doge's Palace, and the Campanile bell tower - you should do a little bit of research on your different ticket options and on how long an average visit lasts.
If you opt to visit all 3 sights, you should expect to spend around 3-4 hours just in Saint Mark's square.
Piazza San Marco (Saint Mark's Square) with the Campanile bell tower towering above it
A coffee at the oldest cafe in Italy (Caffè Florian)
But… before we enter the square and visit its sights, first get a coffee at one of the iconic cafes that line the arcades at its edge: Florian, Lavena, or Quadri.
All 3 cafes were favorites of intellectuals and artists, ranging from world famous lover Casanova to the English poet Lord Byron. Although they're all historic, Florian is considered to be the oldest cafe in Italy, so it'd probably be my choice.
So long as you just stand and get a coffee and pastry at the balcony, they actually don't price gouge, so that's what I'd do. If you opt to sit at a table, whether in the elegant interior or outside in the square, expect to pay a premium.
So, get a cappuccino or a macchiato and enjoy a look around the gorgeous interior with its centuries-old furniture.
The Oriental Room inside Caffè Florian. Photo: S.A.C.R.A. srl, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Piazza San Marco's sights
Saint Mark's Basilica: The cathedral of the Patriarchate of Venice, this astonishing church dates back to the 9th century. Located on the square of the same name, the façade and decorations are reminiscent of the Oriental churches found in Istanbul, Turkey. Inside the cathedral there are mosaics by various artists - including names like Tiziano and Tintoretto - dating from the 1200s to 1500s.
The Campanile: Saint Mark's bell tower is one of the most recognizable sights in all of Italy and usually at the top of most travelers’ check lists. Interestingly, it is not an original, having been rebuilt in 1912 due to structural problems. The top of the tower offers an excellent view over the square and city, but there is always a long line, so make sure to book tickets in advance.
Saint Mark's Clock Tower: The "Torre dell’Orologio dates back to the 15th century and contains a very special feature: 2 Moorish figures that pop out to mark the hours. The lion of San Marco is visible from the tower's top. Advance tickets are an absolute necessity.
Palazzo Ducale: Known in English as the "Doge's Palace” this is the city's most iconic palace. It was the residence of the Doge (the ruler/governor of the Republic of Venice) as well as a jail and the location of the government offices. The interiors are scattered with paintings by some of the world's greatest masters, Tiepolo and Tintoretto among them. The famous Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) connects the palace to the former prison.
Museo Correr: Built in 1830 by Teodoro Correr, a Venetian art collector - this museum on the opposite side of the square from Saint Mark's Basilica exhibits Venetian artwork and objects of historical significance mostly from the period towards the end of the Republic of Venice. The collection is very interesting and the building itself is delightful. It's quite big, so you should budget a few hours for a visit.
Scala Contarini del Bovolo - Located within the [wonderful] Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo palace, this incredible Gothic spiral staircase is a good alternative to Saint Mark's bell tower for anyone who wants a fabulous view without the fabulous line. It's a 4 min walk from San Marco, but far less visited.
Saint Mark's Basilica
Scala Contarini del Bovolo. Photo: Didier Descouens, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The view from Scala Contarini del Bovolo. Photo: Petra Venezia, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
The view from the top of the Campanile bell tower (Museo Correr is at the far end of the square)
A cheeky morning drink in Santa Maria Formosa Square
In Venice and the Veneto region, any time after 10:30 is considered an appropriate time to enjoy the day's first drink (no hard alcohol though!). So, I suggest you get away from the intense crowds of Saint Mark's and go for a spritz or a fresh glass of white wine in Campo Santa Maria Formosa, a gorgeous square that is just a 5-10 minute walk from San Marco.
Campo Santa Maria Formosa. Photo: Didier Descouens, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon
Lunch away from the crowds
The area of San Marco is full of bars and restaurants, but they tend to be tourist-oriented and therefore both mediocre and overpriced. So, for a better meal I suggest you head east into the neighborhood of Castello, which is Venice's quietest and most local area. The relative lack of crowds will surely be a welcome break from incredibly crowded San Marco.
For lunch, you could do cicchetti (Venetian-style tapas) or a real sit down meal. A spot I like is the osteria Pietra Rossa which has recently opened and is run by young Venetians. For an interesting bit of history, it's located in a block whose inhabitants were somehow entirely spared by the 1630 plague that devastated Venice.
Looking out over the Castello neighborhood, with the Basilica di San Giovanni e Paolo rising above everything else. Photo: Luca Aless, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Cross through Sotoportego de la Corte Nova
From the restaurant, you can proceed to the pretty Sotoportego de la Corte Nova, a covered passageway with an interesting history. As you cross through it, be sure to avoid stepping on the “pietra rossa” (red stone), which symbolically represents the plague. Read more about it here.
From the passageway, weave down meandering streets and alleyways into the heart of Castello.
Explore the Castello neighborhood
There's a lot to see in Castello, so below I've listed some of my "must visits”. I've put them in order of how I would visit them, so you can use this as a sort of self-guided walking tour. But also… don't only follow my route - go where your eye draws you!
Ponte del Vin and Riva degli Schiavoni - Ponte del Vin is the pretty bridge that connects Piazza San Marco and the Doge's Palace to the Castello district. Riva degli Schiavoni is the lovely waterfront esplanade that runs all along the Castello's southern end.
Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci - The “church of the Greeks”, this Greek Orthodox church has for centuries been the center of religious and social life for the Venetian Greek community. You can visit both the church and its leaning bell tower as well as a little on-site museum.
The Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni - Just 2 minutes walk from the Church of the Greeks is this little church-cum-gallery. With a ticket you can visit the ground floor's elegant hall which hosts paintings by Vittore Carpaccio, a contemporary of Leonardo da Vinci. Among the works, the painting of Saint George and the dragon is the most famous. Relatively few visitors make it here, so you won't be competing with any crowds.
Campo Do Pozzi - This quiet little “square” should be your next stop. Sit down in the the café (there's just one) that faces onto it and enjoy a coffee or a glass of wine. The square is extremely typical of Venice and it's easy to sit here and imagine what the city was like before tourism.
Pretty Ponte del Vin and the Riva degli Schiavoni esplanade. Photo: trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci. Photo: Didier Descouens, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Vittore Carpaccio's painting "Trionfo di San Giorgio” displayed inside the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni. Photo: Vittore Carpaccio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Arsenale di Venezia - From Campo do Pozzi, make your way to the “arsenal” a large complex of former shipyards (dating back to the Byzantine age) and armories that is now used as a space for cultural events and exhibits. Be sure to pass in front of the main gate which is marked with the lion of Saint Mark on its top. I love walking around here and it's nice to also be in a comparatively open space after so much time in "narrow” Venice.
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia - A pleasant walk from the Arsenale will lead you to this naval history museum. Now, naval history may not be everyone's cup of tea, but you're in Venice, the city once home to one of the world's greatest maritime republics, so be a good tourist (!!) and go check out the museum's displays! As you'd expect, the exhibits focus on the city's maritime history, with lots of military artifacts. The museum is almost never crowded, so you can buy tickets on-site without advance purchase. For more info, check out the official museum website.
Riva dei Sette Martiri - This wonderful waterfront esplanade connects the naval museum to your next stop, the Biennale Gardens. A wide promenade that looks out onto the Venetian lagoon, a stroll here is a personal favorite of mine.
Giardini della Biennale - Your final “organized” stop in Castello should be the “Gardens of the Biennale", a beautiful public park created by Napoleon that every year plays host to the world-famous Venice Biennale, a cultural event dedicated to art, culture, and architecture. The park is quiet and pleasant and the area surrounding it is full of small local businesses. It's a very nice place to take a break from your sightseeing, especially in the summer months.
The main gate of the Arsenale. Photo: Didier Descouens, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
One of the quays in the Arsenale. Photo: Zairon, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Biennale Gardens. Photo: Ekaterina Valinakova, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening
A spritz by the sea on Lido island
You can take a vaporetto directly from the Biennale Gardens to the barrier island of Lido, which, on the edge of the lagoon and facing east directly into the open Adriatic Sea, is home to Venice's city beaches.
I recommend a visit if you're here in late spring or summer, but probably not if visiting in colder months. This is very much a summer place, so it can feel quite deserted during colder months.
Here is very different from the Venice you'll have just been in. First, the island is big (by Venice's standards) - 11 km long -, the architecture is pretty modern, and there are cars and buses. If you want to explore the island, you can rent a bike (or even a car), or take the bus. On the western side you get nice views of the city and lagoon while to the east is lovely sea.
Because you'll be arriving in the evening, you realistically won't have tons of time for exploring, so I'd suggest having a look around and then walking over to a beach bar from which to enjoy a drink while watching the sunset. From where you dock with the vaporetto, it's an easy 10-minute walk to the beach and you'll pass by pretty villas with beautiful gardens. Many of these are summer or weekend homes for wealthy Venetians as this is a sort of "resort” for locals who don't want to travel far for the beach.
For a drink, there are kiosks all along the beach, or you can take a bus to the "settlement” of Malamocco (on the southern part of the island) which for many centuries was the only inhabited area.
An aerial view over the Lido, with the main vaporetto stop in the foreground. Photo: Kasa Fue, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The settlement of Malamocco on Lido island. Photo: Godromil, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Dinner in Lido or back in Venice proper
If you enjoy the atmosphere here and want to linger for dinner, I'd suggest a meal at Trattoria da Scarso in Malamocco. It's very traditional with a good selection of local fish.
If you prefer the idea of a first dinner back on Venice's main island, then grab any vaporetto headed in the direction of San Marco. I'd recommend that you get off in Castello and enjoy a great seafood meal at Corte Sconta. If you want something more refined, try Ristorante Local (also in Castello) which offers tasting menus and "reimagined” Venetian cuisine.
A nighttime stroll through San Marco
From dinner, take a stroll back to Piazza San Marco and the surrounding area so that you get the chance to enjoy it after the day trippers and cruise ship passengers have departed. It's a vastly different experience.
Piazza San Marco at dusk. Photo: Matthias Süßen , CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Day 2 - A morning stroll in Dorsoduro, art & culture in the Accademia and Rialto area, and an afternoon in Cannaregio
On your second day, you'll spend the morning exploring the opposite side of Venice from yesterday - the west. The sestieres that you'll visit are called San Polo and Dorsoduro and they form a very lively part of the city that includes some architecturally stunning areas.
You'll start the day with a quiet stroll through a local part of Dorsoduro, and then dedicate the rest of the morning to the areas that surround the Accademia Gallery and the Rialto bridge, with time for visits to a few museums and palaces along the way.
As with yesterday, in the afternoon we'll get a bit away from the crowds in a youthful and more local area, the sestiere of Cannaregio.
Rialto Bridge
Morning
A walk through the sestiere of Dorsoduro
For your second day in Venice, get an early start and head to the sestiere of Dorsoduro, a gorgeous area that is filled with so many sights you could spend a few days here alone!
Like with your afternoon yesterday, I've planned out a bit of a morning walking tour. Here's my route:
Coffee and a pastry at Pasticceria Tonolo - As with any good day, you should begin it with a coffee and croissant. So do that by heading to the sestiere of Dorsoduro and its well known pastry shop, Pasticceria Tonolo. If you're here during carnival, absolutely try their frittele.
San Pantalon Square - From Tonolo, a 1-minute walk brings us into Campo San Pantalon, a lovely square beside the water. that is reached via two picturesque bridges. Towering over the square is the Chiesa di San Pantalon, whose extremely plain exterior hides one of the most impressive painted ceilings you will ever see! Do yourself a favor and go inside.
Campo Santa Margherita - From San Pantalon, cross the bridge that will eventually bring you to Santa Margherita square (as you cross it be sure to check out the graffiti on the wall of an abandoned house to your right - it's the Migrant Child by Banksy).
Campo Santa Margherita is one of the liveliest squares in Venice, surrounded by restaurants and cafes and always full of people. It's ideal to visit at any time of day, so grab a seat and do some people watching.
While here, I suggest having a look at the Libreria MarcoPolo, a bookstore run by 3 passionate readers who curate a great selection of writers (in different languages) and also promote local culture and literature.
Campo San Barnaba - We're not quite done with our tour of the area's campos, so make your way further to Campo San Barnaba. Like all the others, it's a pretty square with a pretty church on it. Par for the course in Venice!
As you leave the square, be sure to pass through the sottportego “al casin dei nobili”, a passageway whose name literally means "passageway by the brothel of the nobles” (a sottoportego is a passageway). There's no pin for it on Google Maps, but it's basically here on the south side of the square.
Inside the passageway is a gelateria that was, in a past life, a brothel. For a unique curiosity, go inside the gelateria to see the small "spydoor” that peeping toms of medieval times past would have used!
Campo San Pantalon church and square. Photo: Zairon, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
One of two bridges leading into San Pantalon square. Photo: Abxbay, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Campo Santa Margherita. Photo: Didier Descouens, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Art & culture in the Accademia area
Continuing south from Campo San Barnaba will lead you to the Ponte de le Maravegie bridge. Once you cross it, you'll find yourself in the area immediately surrounding the Accademia Gallery, one of Venice's most famous museums. The bridge itself is rather famous in local folklore (and the Venetian comic "Corto Maltese"), but you're just using it for transport! If you want to know the history, have a quick read here.
Because this entire area is so full of museums and big sights, and because you don't have time to visit them all, I've listed 4 different places that I consider "must visits". You'll probably get a bit "museum-ed out” if you visit them all, so unless you are a serious art lover I'd suggest picking one museum and combining it with a visit to the “La Salute” Basilica.
Galleria dell’Accademia - This building is the location for the Accademia of Fine Arts of Venice as well as a museum (of the same name) that houses paintings by Venetian masters like Giorgione, Veronese, and Tiepolo. It also has the “Vitruvian Man” by Leonardo Da Vinci, but it sadly is rarely displayed for protection purposes. Get tickets on the official museum website.
Palazzo Grassi - A Venetian classical palace that may be worth entering depending on what they're currently displaying. Check the exhibition calendar here.
Basilica Santa Maria della Salute - Simply called "La Salute” by locals, this is one of the most iconic Roman catholic churches of Venice. The history of the church is related to the black plague of the 17th century; in the throes of a particularly devastating outbreak, the Republic of Venice vowed to build and dedicate a church to Our Lady of Health as a votive.
The dome is pretty impressive, but the view from the outside remains a true highlight of the city. You can get a great view of the church from the Ponte dell’Accademia bridge.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection - One of the most visited museums in Venice (and the world), the collection here is housed inside an 18th century palace that was the home of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim for 3 decades.
The "museum” started when Peggy began opening the home to the public in certain seasons and inviting them to view her private collection. After her death, the Guggenheim opened it as a full-time museum which it has remained since 1980. The building, facing out onto the Grand Canal, is worth visiting in its own right, but the collection is also good, with a mix of international and Itlaian futurists, surrealists, modernists and abstract expressionists.
Get tickets in advance on the official website.
Ponte de le Maravegie. Photo: Didier Descouens, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Basilica Santa Maria della Salute. Photo: Wolfgang Moroder, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Galleria dell’Accademia in Dorsoduro. Photo: Lucamato, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
The Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Photo: Abxbay, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon
Lunch at Al Botegòn
After your museum visit it'll certainly be time for lunch, so I suggest staying in the area and heading to the nearby Al Botegòn, a longstanding classic that is beloved by locals. This is a typical bacari, a word that is used to describe traditional and fairly simple restaurants that serve cicchetti (Venetian-style tapas) and wine.
Note that you won't see anything identifying the restaurant as “Al Botegòn” as the sign reads "Cantine del Vino Già Schiavi”. I don't remember the story that explains why that is! If it's full (which is likely) grab some cicchetti to go and eat them while sitting along the canal.
Rialto bridge
After lunch, let's move toward the Rialto area. This is the area that surrounds the eponymous bridge and, while pretty, it's quite crowded, so I'd walk straight there for a look before moving on to quieter surrounds. I don't like this area very much, but I'm sure you'll want to see it, so I've included it.
Ponte Rialto is the most iconic bridge in Venice and it has been rebuilt several times since its initial construction in the 11th century. My suggestion is to walk from lunch to San Bartolomeo square, then cross the bridge and head to the Chiesa di San Silvestro (via the Riva del Vin canal-side path) from which you have a magnificent view back towards the bridge and canal.
Rialto Bridge
Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo
After that we can walk to Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, a splendid big square with a church (of the same name) and an old hospital complex.
The church is quite important as many of the Doges were buried here. If you buy an entrance ticket you can also visit the precious paintings among which is the Saint Vincent Ferrer altarpiece by Giovanni Bellini.
At the entrance of the old hospital building is a small museum dedicated to pathological anatomy. If you don't know what that means, it's because it's a rather niche topic (to say the least). Wikipedia to the rescue! Although the subject may sound kind of academic, the museum is actually quite cool for a quick look. It's open from Tuesday to Sunday and never crowded, so you can buy a ticket on site. You'll be in and out in 20 minutes.
Santi Giovanni e Paolo church. Photo: Santi Giovanni e Paolo , CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A walk in Cannaregio and the former Jewish ghetto
From Campo San Giovanni e Paolo, let’s go toward Santa Maria dei Miracoli, a marble church in Venetian Renaissance style and then on to the exceedingly charming Santi Apostoli square.
From here, continue on to Strada Nuova, Venice's only "big” street, which leads right off of Campo Santi Apostoli. Interestingly, it was built by Napoleon.
Now you are entering the area of the ancient Jewish ghetto (the first ghetto in the world which dates back to 1516). The area has been extremely well preserved and is very distinguishable from the area surrounding it due to the fact that the buildings here are much taller. You'll find bookshops, cafes, the Jewish Museum, and active synagogues which you can visit everyday except for the shabbat/sabbath and holidays.
Venice still has an active Jewish community and you can feel that when in the ghetto.
For more info on the area's history, have a look here.
Looking out on the Cannaregio Canal from the Ponte dei Tre Archi. Photo: Didier Descouens, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Typical architecture in Cannaregio. Photo: Lothar John, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto. Photo: Marc Ryckaert, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The main square of the old Jewish Ghetto. Photo: Didier Descouens, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening
An aperitivo and dinner in Cannaregio
You've worked hard today, so have more than earned a drink and some snacks! So, get the evening started with an aperitivo right here in lively Cannaregio. I love coming here for a drink at this time of day because the area is still popular with locals and it's full of cafes, bars, and enoteche (wine bars).
For a drink, I always recommend Il Paradiso Perduto which sometimes has live music and Vino Vero. They're both along Fondamenta della Misericordia canal along with many more options.
For dinner, Cannaregio has almost too much choice, but my personal favorites are Osteria Anice Stellato (nice traditional cuisine with a contemporary touch) and Da Rioba (traditional Venetian).
Fondamenta della Misericordia in the late afternoon. Photo: Wolfgang Moroder, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Day trip to Murano, Burano, and Torcello
For your last day, leave Venice's main island behind and head into the lagoon to visit the 3 charming islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello, which are all quite distinct from each other.
Ferry service from the main island to these 3 islands is pretty frequent and so is service between them. Unless you are visiting in the winter months, you shouldn't need to worry about checking schedules.
Murano
Morning
*Because you'll be using the vaporetto a lot today, it's a good idea to have a look at Che Bateo, a website and mobile app that lists the routes and timetables for ferries in Venice.
If you didn't buy a 3-day transport pass, you will certainly want to get a 1-day unlimited pass for today.
Vaporetto ride in the direction of Murano
Find your nearest vaporetto station that connects with line 5.2, direction Murano. Be sure that you have an unlimited transport pass for today as you'll be taking quite a few ferries and it will get very expensive without one.
A walk among the tombstones on San Michele island
The 5.2 line finishes in Murano, but it also stops at the island of San Michele (last stop before Murano), which is where you want to get off. We're taking a detour!
San Michele is a curious place - and not one you'll find on most itineraries - as the entire island is taken up by Venice's municipal cemetery. I know this seems like an odd place to visit, but it's genuinely beautiful and quite unique. It's peaceful, elegant, and full of elegant tombs, including those of some famous people like Ezra Pound and Igor Stravinsky.
The church of San Michele in Isola on San Michele island. Photo: Till Niermann, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Murano island
After a quick visit to San Michele, head back to the vaporetto station and go the one last stop to Murano, an island best known for the production of Murano glass. The vaporetto makes a few stops on Murano, but get off at the first one and then walk about 10 minutes to the Glass Museum.
The building itself if very cool - an example of Gothic style - and it was once the residence of the bishop of Torcello. It became a civic museum about 100 years ago. Obviously the main reason to visit is to see a few hundred years’ worth of blown glass, but you also have gorgeous rooms, many with frescoes. The glass collection is displayed in chronological order. For opening hours and more info, check the museum website.
Nearby is the Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, a lovely church worth a visit. The surrounding area is pleasant too (and relatively non-touristy), so I'd suggest you go for a walk.
From here you can walk toward the Fornace of Santa Chiara, a former convent that has been turned into a sort of gallery and art studio. Here, you can see demonstrations of glass blowing and chat with artists. It's an interesting visit.
Now, with a basic understanding of this artisanal art form, go for a walk along the Fondamenta dei Vetrai (literally meaning "the canal of the glass blowers”), where you'll pass by lots of shops and little glass factories.
A quick bite
If you find yourself getting hungry, stop somewhere for an “ombra ( glass of wine) and some cicchetti. There are lots of nice places on Murano, so just pick one that suits your fancy.
The Riva Longa waterfront on Murano's "Grand Canal”. Photo: Marc Ryckaert (MJJR), CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A glassworker demonstrates his craft in a Murano factory. Photo: Saffron Blaze, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon
See the churches on Torcello island
After lunch, take the ferry from Murano to Torcello island, a mandatory stop due to its wonderful churches: Santa Maria Assunta and Santa Fosca. The ferry ride takes about 30 minutes. The island has a population of 12 people and, having been founded in the 400s AD, is referred to as the parent island from which Venice was populated.
Some centuries ago the island had a growing population of thousands of people, but the black plague, malaria, and navigational issues brought an end to its growth. It never recovered.
Most of the palazzi and parishes have now disappeared and the main attraction is the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta which included mosaics from the 11th and 12th century. The church of Santa Fosca is in rather crumbling form, but is uniquely built in the form of the Greek cross.
The island is very quiet (the quietest of the 3) and I love visiting. It feels like a completely different and you get a real sense for what the islands must have been like centuries ago.
The Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta on Torcello
Torcello's "Grand Canal”. Photo: Zairon, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Colorful houses and lacework on Burano
From Torcello, it's a really quick vaporetto ride to Burano, the small island famed for colorful houses and high quality lacework.
It's really quite small so figure that you'll want around an hour for a visit. Start at the main square which has a statue of Baldassare Galuppi, a Venetian composer who had a period of fame in the 1700s before being almost totally forgotten. His statue is here because… you guessed it, he was from Burano!
Also on the square is the local Lace Museum, which is obviously dedicated to lacework. In the past, it was a school for girls who wanted to learn the art of lacemaking.
You can also stop at Dalla Lidia, a family-run shop, to see ladies actively making lace. The old generation is working to preserve this ancient tradition and keep it from disappearing entirely.
The colourful houses here are a special architectural feature of the island; apparently the different and vivid colours were used in order to help fishermen to recognize their houses when the typical fog - called caigo in Venetian dialect - lay heavy over the lagoon. So, for a walk and admire the houses. Whenever you're ready, get a vaporetto and enjoy the 45-minute journey back to the main island.
Burano
Typical lacework for sale at a shop along Fondamenta della Giudecca in Burano. Photo: Jean-Pol GRANDMONT, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening
The Last Supper, Venetian style - well, at least your last supper
The ferry will leave you at Fondamenta Nove in Cannaregio, so I'd recommend stopping in nearby Campo dei Gesuiti to enjoy a drink. If you're young and want to mingle, check out the bar of the hostel Combo which is open to the public.
For dinner, I recommend Osteria Ai Promessi Sposi which is 10 mins walk from here heading in the direction of Rialto and San Marco. It's a laid back restaurant that serves traditional Venetian food and I think it's a nice way to close out your visit.
Arrivederci!
Allora ragazzi, that's the end of our jaunt together through my dear Venice. I hope you enjoyed the guide (and your visit, eventually) and that you come back some time.
Buon viaggio ed alla prossima! Safe travels and until next time!
More Italy travel info
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