One Week Umbria Itinerary - Perugia, Assisi, and the historic hilltop towns
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Umbria is a lot quieter and less-visited than many other Italian regions, and that’s just part of the appeal of these rich valleys and green hills. Assisi, the hometown of Saint Francis on the flanks of Monte Subasio, is one of dozens of alluring hill towns set amid beautiful scenery.
The pleasure of exploring these towns, with their medieval ambiance and art treasures, is matched by excellent food and wine and the chance to soak in the inspiring countryside.
Our route is designed to show off the best of the region in a week. We begin in the north, in Perugia, the region’s largest town, and nearby Assisi, the final resting place of one of Christianity’s most popular saints.
From there we move onto two other impressive hill towns, Spoleto and, last stop, Orvieto, in the south of the region. In between you’ll spend some time in appealing smaller towns and drive through the vineyards around Montefalco and into the mountains above Norcia.
When the week is up, you’ll have seen quite a lot and the soothing Umbrian landscapes will have worked their magic on you: you’ll be itching to come back for another trip!
More Umbria travel info:
For more info on travel in Umbria, check out our Perugia city guide and our Umbria travel guide.
And if you could use some one-on-one help planning your trip to Umbria, consider scheduling an Umbria travel consultation!
Table of Contents
Overview of traveling in Umbria
Day 1 - Perugia
Day 2 - Assisi and Spello
Day 3 - Gubbio, Passignano, Lago Trasimeno
Day 4 - Bevagna, Trevi, and Spoleto
Day 5 - Spoleto and Montefalco
Day 6 - Norcia and Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
Day 7 - Todi and Orvieto
Introduction to traveling in Umbria
One of the wonderful things about a road trip around Umbria is that many of the places you’re likely to want to visit are within easy drives of one another, which means you get to see quite a lot in a very short amount of time, all without spending long days in the car.
Though a week can still go by all too quickly, Umbria is small enough, and these stops are close enough together, that you won’t feel too rushed and you’ll actually have time to slow down and enjoy yourself in each of them.
To maximize your time and reduce driving distances, the route we’ve planned has you staying overnight in major towns of the region that are within easy reach of what you’ll want to see. All of them - even busy Perugia - have the feel of classic medieval hill towns and the soul-soothing Umbrian landscapes are always within view.
How to get around
Regarding the logistics of the itinerary, while you could do some of this by train (as many of the larger cities and towns are linked by Umbria’s good rail network), a car makes it a lot easier and quicker to get from town to town, and having your own vehicle will allow you to make stops in smaller places in between.
With a car, you’ll also be able to get out into natural areas and can divert off the route any time you want to a winery, restaurant, nature park, or anywhere else.
Driving and parking in the region is fairly stress-free, and distances are short enough that you won’t need to fill up the tank too often either. With that in mind, it really is best to have a car for this itinerary.
Renting a car
You have all the big rental companies in Italy and Umbria too. The easiest two places to pick up a car are in Orvieto (at the train station) or at the airport in Perugia, but you also have agencies in Terni, Spoleto, Foligno, and Città della Pieve.
Because most visitors to Umbria first arrive elsewhere in Italy (and are sure to have their departing flight from elsewhere as well), it may be more convenient to pick up and drop off your car at your arrival/departure airport. You also may get better prices in a larger city like Rome or Florence.
DiscoverCars is an online aggregator that I always recommend checking in order to look for rentals and compare prices. They include offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find terrific deals.
AutoEurope is another aggregator that I really like. It tends to be more expensive, but they only list options from large, well-reviewed companies and their customer service is excellent. Their deals often include “zero deductible” (i.e. full coverage) rental insurance and they’re the best option if you want the easiest experience and are ok paying a little more for it.
Day 1 - Perugia, Umbria’s capital city
Photo": AliasXX00, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning - Perugia
The old center of Perugia, which is where you’re going to spend the majority of your time, is built along a ridge of hills, while the sprawling new town - where many of the 160,000 Peruginos live - is in the valley below.
As you arrive to the city, I would advise parking in the newer part of town, in any of the several lots and garages at the foot of the hills. From there, you can easily get to the upper town by a series of escalators and elevators.
Several parking garages surround the train station, from which a seven-stop “mini-metro” runs up the hill to the old center.
On arrival in the old city, begin your visit with a walk in Piazza Italia, a leafy square that is lined with the palatial headquarters of Umbria’s provincial government and on one end overhangs the valley far below.
From here the broad, shop-lined Corso Vannucci heads through the center of town to the Piazza IV Novembre, where the Duomo rises next to the elaborately carved Fontana Maggiore.
As you walk down the street, prepare to make a couple of stops along the way. First up is the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, which is housed on the top floors of the heavily medieval Palazzo dei Priori. The gallery showcases the great works of Umbrian artists from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, with a polyptych by Piero della Francesca being the standout, in which you can lose yourself looking into the intricate religious scenes full of precise detail and perspective.
The Nobile Collegio del Cambio, next door, preserves the meeting rooms of the town’s medieval money-lending guild, providing a glimpse into 15th-century office life.
At the end of the street, you’ll reach the Piazza IV November. Spend some time people watching in the square and enjoying the stately architecture, and then dip into the Duomo. The church is impressive and ornate, and is filled with lovely artwork and beautiful frescoes adorning the ceilings.
One more art stop here in the center is the nearby Capella di San Severo, a small 16th-century monastery chapel covered in frescoes that the Renaissance master Raphael painted early in his career, before he became known for his work in Rome.
Afternoon - Perugia’s historic center
Corso Vannucci. Photo: trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
It should be approaching lunch time by this point, so head over to Bottega di Perugia on Piazza Morlacchi and enjoy one of their delicious panini.
After lunch, forget about “sights” and just let yourself get lost wandering the charming streets and alleys of the old town. The cobbled lanes that crisscross Perugia’s historic core often become steps as they climb hills and drop into ravines, and as you wander you’ll come upon fountains, arches, and the elaborate doorways of Renaissance palaces and churches.
An upward climb from Piazza IV Novembre along some steep streets and steps brings you to the Arco dei Gigli, also known as Porta Sole, one of the gates in the Etruscan walls that once enclosed the city. The reward for you efforts is probably the best view in Perugia, over the old town and far across the valley below.
An easier ramble is just north of Piazza IV Novembre, along Via dell’Acquedotto, across the top of a 13th-century aqueduct. You’ll have a panoramic view of the town and valley unfolding before you as you cross the aqueduct over a deep ravine. On the far side is the University of Perugia, one of several schools that give the city a lot of youthful energy.
Another walk leads underground, into the eerie but fascinating remains of the Rocca Paolina beneath Piazza Italia. This is actually a ride, since you’ll be on a series of escalators that descend from an entrance on Piazza Italia through a maze of vaulted chambers and old passageways.
These are the cellars and foundations of a castle that the Papal States, under Pope Paul III, built around 1530 to impose their control after the city rebelled against a salt tax. Three centuries later, after Italian unification, Peruginos demolished the castle and laid out Piazza Italia in its place.
Evening
When you’ve had your fill of subterranean Perugia, had back to Corso Vannucci and do as the Peruginos do, taking your evening passeggiata up and down the street. A popular stop for a glass of wine is the Bottega del Vino, a cozy room with a terrace off Piazza Iv Novembre.
Later, a dinner at La Taverna or Osteria a Priori will introduce you to pappardelle with ragu and other hearty Umbrian classics; dinner for two at either will be about 70 to 80 euros.
Overnight in Perugia
Where to spend the night: For the first three nights of this itinerary, settle into either Perugia or Assisi. They’re only half an hour apart, and while Assisi is soaked in smalltown, medieval ambiance, the beautifully preserved old center of Perugia combines the atmosphere of a medieval hill town and a bustling university town.
Among the top choices for accommodation in Perugia is the Brufani Palace, a 19th-century grand hotel on Piazza Italia full of comfy lounges, terraces, and sweeping views; from 220 euros double, with breakfast.
The nearby Hotel Locanda della Posta has been hosting guests for three centuries or so in an old palace on Corso Vannucci, and a modern redo has added a lot of contemporary touches but left the old frescoes and wonderful outlooks intact; from 125 euros double, with breakfast.
Connect with Umbria travel expert Marco for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips for a better visit!
Day 2- Assisi and Spello
Morning - Assisi
Get a fairly early start this morning for the half-hour drive to Assisi. Just before reaching the town, you will pass through Santa Maria degli Angeli, the modern sister city to Assisi, where the train station is located (if you decide to take the train instead of driving, you can take one of the frequent buses from the station up to Assisi).
The major draw here is the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli-Porziuncola, the seventh largest church in Christendom, built around the chapel where Francis renounced his worldly goods and the cell where he died in 1226.
Visit the Basilica then continue up toward Assisi. You will pass several parking areas, most of which are connected to Assisi’s historic core by escalators and elevators. Park in one of them and make your way up to town.
Once in Assisi, begin your tour at Assisi’s landmark church, the Basilica di San Francesco, commanding a hillside at one end of town. Saint Francis is interred in the basilica’s Lower Church in a sarcophagus beneath colorful frescoes. Up in the Upper Church, a sublime fresco cycle by Giotto tells the life story of this man who nine centuries after his death is still beloved for his kindness.
When you leave the Upper Church, you’ll be in the Piazza Superiore di San Francesco. Cross this airy expanse, carpeted with a well-manicured lawn, to the busy Bar San Francesco, a pleasant stop for a coffee and pastry.
From here, the Via San Francesco, lined with shops and old palaces, leads up to the Piazza del Comune, the center of town. As you enter this handsome square you’ll pass the 13th century Torre del Popolo, an elaborate bell tower, and next to it an amazing sight, the beautifully preserved columns and pediment of the Temple of Minerva, from the first century b.c.e.
The temple now serves as the façade of the ornate, 16th-century church of Santa Maria sopra Minvera.
Two more important religious sites are just beyond the Piazza del Comune. One of Francis’ followers, Clare, is honored in the Basilica di Santa Chiara, where an eerie wax cast of her body is on display. She and Francis were baptized in the stark Romanesque interior of the nearby Cattedrale al San Rufino, the town’s main church for centuries before the Basiliica di San Francesco was built.
That’s probably enough churches for one morning. Now take some time to wander around the cobbled lanes of this attractive hill town of honey-colored stone, enjoying the quiet atmosphere and popping into the little squares and alleys.
A walk from San Rufino takes you past the pretty Fontana di San Rufina and through the steep streets of the upper town to Rocca Maggiore, a medieval fortress that provides sweeping views far across the Umbrian plains.
Whenever you get hungry, lunch in Assisi is your chance to taste torta al testo, flatbread that’s grilled, split, and stuffed with cheeses, sausage or ham, and usually some fresh vegetables. Little cafes and stand-up counters around town serve the specialty.
Afternoon and evening - Spello
Spello
After lunch, it’s time to leave Assisi and head to the nearby town of Spello. On the way, make a short detour along the slopes of Monte Subasio to the Ermeo delle Carceri, a hermitage in the woods where Francis often retreated to pray and commune with nature, sleeping in a cave equipped with a stone bed.
Continue on to Spello, where you’ll want to spend at least a couple of hours soaking in the pleasant atmosphere and taking in the sights. This small town will charm you the minute you step through the Consular Gate, a holdover from the town’s Roman past.
Flower-lined streets lead up to the Piazza della Reppubblica, where most of the shops and restaurants are located, and just beyond is a terrace built over the old Roman forum that provides views across the valley below.
Another one of Umbria’s great works of art is here, in the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, where Pinturicchio (the Little Painter) filled the Baglioni Chapel with delightfully detailed frescoes portraying the boyhood of Christ set against Umbrian landscapes.
Apart from their technicolor beauty, the scenes stand out as a bit of medieval damage control. The powerful Baglioni clan commissioned them to get back into the good graces of the church after a family feud devolved into the so-called Red Wedding, a frenzied bloodbath that left behind a pile of butchered corpses.
More of the Roman past of Hispellum, as the ancient town was known, comes to light in the Villa dei Mosaici. Lavish mosaics depicting wild animals and mythical figures carpet the floors of twelve rooms of what was once a grand residence.
Overnight in Perugia or Assisi
If you’re staying Perugia, the drive back will take less than half an hour, and the return trip to Assisi is only about 15 minutes.
Where to spend the night: if you opt to stay in Assisi, avoid the heartless hotels of the lower town, which are geared to busloads of tourists. In the historic part of town, Hotel Il Palazzo and Hotel Giotto are stylish and comfortable, and many of the rooms at both enjoy views that will have you glued to the windows; doubles at both begin at about 120 euros, with breakfast.
Day 3 - Gubbio, Passignano, and Lago Trasimeno
Gubbio. Photo: Labicanense, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning - Gubbio
This morning, head up to Gubbio, less than an hour from either Perugia or Assisi. With its crenellated palaces set against dark hillsides, Gubbio is a thoroughly medieval-looking place, though the Romans who conquered the Etruscans settled here 2,000 years ago and left behind one of the largest theaters from the ancient world.
Begin your explorations here at the Roman theater, on the plains below the old town. Arcades and some of the some of the seating remain, suggesting the onetime grandeur of this 1st century theater that could seat 6,000 spectators. A small museum shows off busts and other finds from the site.
Now head up to the old town. You can walk up along steep stone streets, or from the lower town take a series of well-marked escalators and elevators that will deposit you in the town’s movie-set-worthy showpiece, Piazza Grande.
This dramatic expanse of brick is anchored by the heavily Gothic Palazzo dei Consoli (town hall) and opens on one side to soothing views across Umbrian landscapes. Step inside the Palazzo dei Consoli for a look at the Eugubine Tablets, from around 200 b.c.e., a sort of Rosetta stone in which the Umbri language in transposed in Etruscan and Latin letters.
The palazzo that rambles along one side of the palazzo looks a British country house, and this is not an accident. A 17th-century duke commissioned the columned and brick facade to impress his homesick English bride (to no avail, it’s said).
It’s intriguing to wander around the Upper Town, set onto the steep hillside in different levels. A short walk down Via Consoli from Piazza Grande takes you into Largo Bargello, where the so-called Fontana di Matti (Fountain of the Madmen) is steeped in a legend - it’s said that if you walk around the fountain three times then splash yourself with the waters you can become a certified lunatic (not sure why you’d want to, but the ritual also makes you an honorary citizen of Gubbio).
You’ll notice that many of the houses have a narrow entrance next to the main entrance, raised above street level and known as a Porta dei Morti, or “Door of the Dead.” It’s said that the deceased were removed by this means, but it’s more likely the elevated portal provided a safe way to see who was at the main entrance.
Then it’s uphill again, along switchback lanes or on an elevator from Piazza Grande. The Palazzo Ducale at the top of town was the onetime seat of the powerful dukes of Montefeltro, who ruled this region during the Renaissance.
You can step into the impressive courtyard for free, and that’s about all you need to see since the palace’s standout feature, the richly paneled study of Duke Frederico da Montefeltro, was carted off to New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art decades ago.
Step inside the Duomo to see the huge rose window, depicting the Evangelists, then walk down Via Federico, just below the Duomo, to look through a gate for a view of the enormous Botte dei Canonici (Canon’s Barrel), once filled with thousands of gallons of wine from which monks in the monastery above could allegedly serve themselves through a trapdoor.
Afternoon and evening - Gubbio cable car, Passignano, Lago Trasimeno
The cable car up to Monte Ingino
It should be around lunchtime by now, so enjoy a meal at Gubbio’s storied Taverna del Lupo, where frescoes tell the legend of Saint Francis taming a ferocious wolf who was devouring townsfolk; lunch for two will be about 70 euros.
As the story goes, the populace agreed to feed the beast in return for his good behavior, and allegedly the wolf often popped into these vaulted rooms for a bite to eat.
After lunch, hop onto the Funivia Colle Eletto for a ride up Monte Ingino. As you enjoy the breezy ascent in one of the open-air cages, keep in mind that every spring during the Corsa dei Ceri, costumed teams shoulder huge statues of saints mounted on battering ram-like platforms and race up the slopes on foot.
Make your way back down to town (also via the cable car) and say goodbye to Gubbio.
It’s now time to head on to lakeside Passignano, which sits on the shores of Lago Trasimeno, Italy’s fourth largest lake.
Isola Maggiore in Lago Trasimeno
Pretty Passignano clusters around an imposing castle, and you can enjoy a stroll along lakeside promenades and swim from some stretches of sand. From a pier in Passignano a ferry crosses the lake to Isola Maggiore, a picturesque, tree-covered outcropping where paths follow the shoreline, with spots for taking the plunge for a swim.
The one village is Tuoro al Trasimeno, a collection of stone houses with just 35 residents, who are known for the lace they make and sell from stands on the waterfront. Once you get back to Passignano, there’s no need to rush off - the terraces of Bar Sole and other waterfront spots are good places to enjoy the sunset views.
No matter where you’ve based yourself, the drive home Is short- - from Passignano, Perugia is only about half an hour away and the drive to Assisi is 45 minutes.
Overnight in Perugia or Assisi
(See hotel options from days 1 and 2 above)
Day 4 - Trevi, Bevagna, and Spoleto
Bevagna
Trevi
Morning and afternoon - Bevagna & Trevi
Today, your final destination is the town of Spoleto, in the center of Umbria. The drive there from Perugia or Assisi is under an hour, so you should have plenty of time to make stops along the way in the tiny towns of Bevagna and Trevi to experience smalltown Umbrian life.
Walled Bevagna is an exception among Umbrian towns - it’s not a hill town, but is built in a valley alongside the Topino River and is entirely flat. Saint Francis famously preached to the birds in green riverside pastures just outside the town walls, and the stone on which he stood to do so is in the church of San Francesco.
Your wanderings around town won’t take more than an hour and will reveal Bevagna’s Roman origins. Two impressively large churches that face each other on the main square, Piazza Silvestri, incorporate Roman columns, and the nearby remnants of Roman baths include a section of mosaic flooring that, whimsically depicts sea creatures.
Bevagna is thoroughly medieval, though, and a perfect stage set for the annual Mercato delle Gaite, a medieval reenactment in June. You can soak in this atmosphere over lunch at one of the outdoor tables at the Bottega di Assù, a little bistro and enoteca.
In Trevi you’ll do some climbing, as the town clings to the steep slopes of Monte Serano. As you make the trek through the medieval streets up to Piazza Mazzini, the main square, you’ll catch glimpses of one of this appealing town’s main assets, terrific views over the plains of the Clitunno River.
Afternoon and evening - Spoleto
From Trevi, it’s only about 20 minutes to Spoleto, where you’ll be settling in for the next three nights. Most of this steep hill town is off limits to cars, so park in one of the well-marked garages at the foot of the hill. They’re connected to the center by a series of underground moving walkways, escalators, and elevators that you’ll probably also use to explore the town.
One you’ve settled in, first stop is one of the most impressive of many sights in town, the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, also known simply as the Duomo, dramatically set on a sloping square at the foot of a sweeping staircase.
Inside the church there are transporting frescoes of the life of the Virgin Mary by Filippo Lippi, a priest whose life was as colorful as his paintings; he died while working here, allegedly poisoned by a lover, and is buried in the church.
From there, make the ascent via walkways and escalators to the Rocca Albornoziana, a 14th-century fortress at the very top of town that was built to be virtually impregnable. Walk around the outside of the massive walls and take in the sweeping views across the countryside.
Then head down to Piazza Mercato for a cocktail at Caffe degli Artisti and dinner across the square at Osteria del Matto di Proietti Filippo, where Fillippo will serve you a multicourse meal of whatever the kitchen is preparing that day; dinner for two about 70 euros.
Spoleto: the Rocca Albornoziana and Ponte dell Torri. Photo: WikiRomaWiki, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Overnight in Spoleto
Where to stay: For a stay in Spoleto, the bright and comfortable Hotel San Luca gets high marks for style as well as convenience - it’s at the foot of the hill below the old town, easy to reach by car (and has a garage), and near a terminus of the moving walkway that runs beneath Spoleto; doubles are from 100 euros, with breakfast.
A delightful spot in the upper town is the Palazzo Leti, facing a Renaissance garden on one side and the gorge of the Testino River on the other; doubles are from 120 euros, with breakfast.
Connect with Umbria travel expert Marco for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips for a better visit!
Day 5 - Spoleto and Montefalco
Spoleto. Photo: DrTorstenHenning, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning - Spoleto
Spend the morning wandering around town. Begin at the bottom of the hill, at the church of San Gregorio di Maggiore. Step inside to see a fresco depicting Spoleto as it looked in the 16th century (much as it does now) then descend a staircase out front to see what remains of the Ponte Sanguanario, a 1st century Roman bridge.
You can climb, or take the moving walkway, up to the Piazza Mercato, to see more remnants of Spoletum, a former major Roman town on the Via Flaminia, in the Casa Romana, a patrician villa, and a well preserved Roman Theater.
Then stretch your legs with an stroll along a path high above the Testino River to see the Ponte dei Torre, a 13th-century aqueduct that was built atop Roman foundations to span the deep gorge.
Afternoon - Montefalco
Make the short drive out to Montefalco, a famous wine town, and spend the afternoon there. Vineyards for miles around grow the dark red Sagrantino grapes that yield highly regarded red wines, including the distinguished Montefalco Sagrantino DOCGs (for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, Italy’s highest distinction of quality).
The main attraction in this lovely and compact little hill town, still enclosed in large part by walls, is the Museo di San Francesco, where a fresco cycle painted by Benozzo Gozzoli in the 1450s portrays 19 episodes from the life of Saint Francis.
You’ll want to spend an hour or so seeing these colorful works and just wandering around the circular Piazza Grande and the little lanes that lead off it.
You can taste the local wines in town at enotecas on Piazza Grande, or for a close-up look at production follow the well-marked Strada del Sagrantino wine trail through the vinyards.
Two worthy stops are Arnaldo Caprai, one of the largest and most highly regarded producers in the region, and Scacciadiavoli, one of the oldest, established in 1885.
Evening
Before returning to Spoleto, you might want to enjoy an early-evening stroll around Montefalco and enjoy a glass of wine in one of the cafes on and around Piazza Grande.
Once back in Spoleto, grab dinner and enjoy an evening wander in this atmospheric old town.
Overnight in Spoleto
(See hotel options from day 4 above)
Day 6: Norcia and Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
Norcia. Photo: Natsag, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning - Norcia
From Spoleto, head about 45 minutes east and spend a day in and around Norcia, a walled medieval town at the base of the Sibilline Mountains. Once you park and begin to walk through the old center to the main square, Piazza San Benedetto, you’ll probably be pleased to discover that unlike so many other Umbrian towns, Norcia is set on a high mountain plain and surprisingly flat.
A statue of Benedetto, noted for establishing the rules of monastic life, overlooks the square, and fittingly, he overlooks the church that is dedicated to him as well as a still-active monastery.
You can spend an hour or so poking around the square and the surrounding streets, and you’ll soon notice that much of the town is under scaffolding. Norcia is in an earthquake zone and has repeatedly been rocked by strong tremors, including one in 2016 that damaged much of the center. Much of the restoration work has been completed or is well under way .
You’ll also notice the many gastronomias on the little streets leading off Piazza San Benedetto, and in them you can stock up on the smoked and cured pork and wild boar for which Norcia is famous and are known around Italy as nocrineria.
Stick around long enough for lunch, because you’ll also find these specialties on the menu at Locanda del Teatro and other restaurants around town.
Afternoon - Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
Just above Norcia, the Sibilline Mountains rise to heights of 2,000 meters (6,500 feet). Much of these highlands are preserved in the vast Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini, 275 square miles of mountainous wilderness where eagles and falcons soar above pristine lakes and a network of trails and paths for hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding crisscross the wild terrain.
The drive into the park will take you through beautiful upland scenery of the plains of Castelluccio di Norcia. These mountain plateaus are beautiful any time of the year and especially in the spring and early summer, when wild lentils, poppies, cornflowers, and other wildflowers blossom into a carpet of red and purple.
You can experience this scenery on a hike along the Poggio di Croce and the Blue Trails, both of which head onto the plains from the village of Castelluccio. About 20 minutes north by car from Castelluccio you’ll find one of the park’s visitors’ centers, with maps and other information, in the tiny village of Castelsantangelo.
At the end of the day, head back to Spoleto.
Overnight in Spoleto
(See hotel options from Day 4 above)
The Plains of Castelluccio. Photo: Enric, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Day 7: Todi and Orvieto
Todi
Morning - Todi
On your final day in Umbria, head west to Orvieto, which is an hour and a half drive from Spoleto. On the way, make a stop in Todi, a very high hill town that appears to float above the fields and forests far below.
Aside from remarkable views, Todi is also blessed with one of the most beautiful squares in Italy, the Piazza del Popolo. The Duomo and several sturdy medieval palaces surround this hilltop space. The square and the views from this high perch are Todi’s main attractions, but don’t rush off.
Settle in for lunch on the terrace at the Ristorante Umbria, just off one side of the Piazza del Popolo. A meal comes with incredible views, and lunch for two is about 60 euros. And don’t order dessert, because some of Italy’s most highly rated gelato is served a short walk away at Bar Pianegiani.
Afternoon - Orvieto
Orvieto
Continue on another 45 minutes west and you’ll reach Orvieto, still with plenty of time to do some exploring. Even the arrival is an adventure in this remarkable town, set atop a volcanic outcropping. You’ll see the marble façade of the Duomo glistening in the sunlight as your approach across the surrounding countryside.
Stash your car for free in the large parking area next to the train station just below town and take the funicular up the cliff.
Your first stop on a walk around town is the Piazza del Duomo, where you’ll have a close-up look at the glistening façade of the black-and-white marble cathedral, an intricate assemblage of mosaics and statuary that depict familiar scenes from the Bible.
Inside the church is one of the great Renaissance fresco cycles, by Luca Signorelli, full of winged devils and terrified doomed souls.
Other attractions in Orvieto are below ground: the soft rock beneath your feet here is riddled with a labyrinth of more than 1,000 caverns that have been used over the millennia as tombs, storage vaults, refuge in times of siege, and chicken coups. You can see them on tours with Orvieto Underground.
Another look at the underside is provided at the Pozzo di San Patrizio (Saint Patrick’s Well), an ingenious construction in which a pair of spiral staircases form a double helix for a deep descent to the town’s medieval water source.
Evening
A stroll around the old streets and squares comes with a stop or two for a glass of Orvieto Classico, a crisp white from the vineyards that flourish along the banks of the Paglia River below town. A drink on the terrace of the Cantina Foresi on Piazza Del Duomo comes with a stage-front view of the landmark.
Next, you will want to linger over dinner at charming La Palomba or in the atmospheric Grotto del Fumaro, in a cave dug out of the cliffs. Dinner for two at either place is about 80 euros.
The perfect nightcap in this magical town is a final look at the floodlit façade of the Duomo.
Overnight in Orvieto
Where to stay: A good place to settle in up here is the Hotel Duomo, just steps from the landmark from which this pleasant and welcoming place takes its name; from 90 euros double, with breakfast.
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