Where to Stay in Naples - Neighborhood Guide
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So, you’re going to Naples? Well, hold onto your hat, because few cities in the world serve up such an overload of sensations. Here, you’ll enjoy an incredible combination of great food, vibrant street life, sublime views, sensual art work, transporting ancient artifacts, and noble architecture.
Even so, for all its stunning attractions and spectacular setting on the Bay of Naples, this city, the unofficial capital of Italy’s sunbaked south, can also be rough and raucous. It’s a polarizing place, and lots of visitors come here not knowing what to expect and leave feeling a little disillusioned by their visit.
And it’s absolutely true that this city is not nearly as monumental as Rome, as dignified as Florence, or as aristocratic as Venice. But that’s not what you come here for! Naples is beautiful chaos, a place that delivers pure sensory overload and uninhibited fun. Personally, I love it!
And I hope you will too! Of course, being a big city and one that has its share of poverty and problems, planning your time in Naples requires more work and consideration than some other Italian cities. So that’s what I’m here to help you with. Where you stay in Naples will have a significant effect on your experience here, so I’ve put together the following article that details my favorite neighborhoods in the city and explains what they offer and for whom I think each is the best fit.
I think everyone can find somewhere that will suit their tastes, budget, and interests, so hopefully you walk away from this guide with one part of your trip planning firmly settled: where you’ll be staying.
Table of Contents
Amalfi Coast planning cheatsheet
Plan your itinerary with expert advice
- Book an Italy travel consultation with a local expert
My favorite hotels on the Amalfi Coast
- Maison La Minervetta - clifftop luxury overlooking Sorrento. $450/night
- Palazzo Marziale - gorgeous rooms in a restored palace in Sorrento. $200/night
- Casa Santangelo Suites - opulent style in the heart of Salerno. $250/night
- B&B il Duca d'Amalfi - excellent value in Salerno's old town. $110/night
Guided tours and activities
How to get around
- Car rentals with DiscoverCars
- Train tickets from Trenitalia and Circumvesuviana
- Bus routes at SITA
- Ferries with FerryScanner
Overview of Naples layout
Overwhelming as Naples can be, the city is fairly easy to navigate and explore. Quite picturesquely, the city center follows a large curve of the Bay of Naples, and while the metropolis sprawls far inland, the major sights and historic neighborhoods are almost entirely on or near the sea. That makes sense given that this city has been one of Europe’s major ports for centuries.
The city’s main train station is on the eastern edge of the center and is a useful reference point given that you’ll probably be arriving there on the high-speed train from Rome or elsewhere. The station is also right beside Piazza Garibaldi, one of Naples’ main squares. All of the neighborhoods that I’ve recommended are fairly close to the train station/square, but you’ll probably need to take the metro to get between them regardless.
The Centro Storico (historic center) sits just to the west of Piazza Garibaldi, and all the other neighborhoods that I’ve recommended are west of there. The Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarter) is the closest to the Historic Center (adjacent to it), while areas like Santa Lucia/Chiaia are a ways further south/west, and lie right beside the sea. And lastly, hilltop Vomero sits high above all of these areas, directly over the Spanish Quarter.
The very handy Metro line 1 runs from the train station through most of the heart of the city, with stops in or near each of these neighborhoods, making it very easy to get between them and the train station.
Quick summary of my 5 recommended neighborhoods
You have a lot to consider when choosing a place to stay in Naples. First, let’s get the issue of safety out of the way: despite its reputation for organized crime, the city is relatively safe for tourists, whose only real concern should be the pickpockets who work the crowded streets, train station, and buses.
Be especially careful anytime you’re on Via San Gregorio Armeno, or if you take the R2 bus, which travels between the port, city center and train station, and is always packed with tourists.
Second, do your homework and choose a location that makes sense based on what you want to see and do while here. Naples is Italy’s third largest city, with 900,000 inhabitants and three times that in the sprawling metropolitan region, and while most of the major sights are in the historic center and adjoining neighborhoods, they’re fairly spread out, so it takes time to travel to and between them.
As such, where you stay should at least be partly based on its proximity to the places that you want to visit while in town.
For example, it’s an hour on foot from the central train station to the Santa Lucia waterfront, with its iconic views across the Bay of Naples. Then there’s the treasure-filled Capodimonte museum and the famous catacombs, which are a bus or taxi ride away from the center (you can’t do it on foot).
You’ll likely need to take public transit at least a bit no matter where you stay, but if you can find an accommodation near to your primary areas of interest, it’ll be a lot more convenient.
Third, neighborhoods in the city vary greatly in atmosphere, ranging from colorful and chaotic to stately and tranquil, so give some serious thought to the surroundings you’ll most enjoy.
A good example of this is a place like Vomero, which is neat and organized and feels a world away from the chaotic sight-packed Centro Storico or Spanish Quarter. It literally feels like you’re in different cities when traveling between them. They all have good aspects though, so it’s just about what you’re looking for.
With all of that said, all 5 neighborhood’s that I’ve recommended in this guide are pleasant and central, with good access to the main sights and lots to see and do. There are no bad choices here, just different ones, so you need to decide what it is you’re after and then choose your base accordingly.
Below is a map showing each neighborhood’s boundaries along with a quick summary of them:
1. Centro Storico (black/grey on the map above)
The historic center of the city is one of the most lively and colorful neighborhoods on earth, a fascinating and densely populated warren of Greek and Roman ruins, medieval and baroque churches and monasteries, laundry hung alleyways, and bustling piazzas. Many of the city’s must-see sights are here, as are many restaurants and places to stay, making this the most popular neighborhood for travelers.
The area is roughly bounded by Via Toledo and the Spanish Quarter to the west, Corso Umberto and the waterfront to the south, and Via Cavour and the Archeological Museum to the north. Piazza Garibaldi and the train station are just to the east.
2. Quartieri Spagnoli (red above above)
The Spanish Quarter is a grid of little streets that are wedged between Via Toledo to the east and turn into stairways that climb the Vomero hill to the west. Chaia/Santa Lucia edges the neighborhood to the south and the streets run into Montesanto and Piazza Dante to the north.
You’ll find yourself surrounded by classic Naples street life here, with zipping Vespas, soccer-playing kids, residents keeping an eye on comings and goings from their open doorways, and tiny shops and hole-in-the-wall eateries. The Centro Storico, with its many sights, is just to the east across Via Toldeo, and this neighborhood is a little less touristic yet still near much of what you want to see.
3. Santa Lucia & Chiaia (green above)
This seaside enclave begins south of the Centro Storico, where the Teatro San Carlo opera house and Galleria Umberto, a glass-arcaded, 19th-century opera house, adjoin two monumental squares, Piazza Trieste e Trento and Piazza del Plebiscito, then stretches up elegant, shop-lined Via Chaia and drops down to the seafront promenade in Santa Lucia, where some of the city’s most prestigious hotels are clustered.
The Villa Comunale, beautiful seaside gardens, are a welcome spot of greenery on the neighborhood’s western flanks. Here you’ll find Naples on its best behavior, but as pleasant and in places beautiful as the surroundings are, you’ll be out of easy reach of many sights and away from the city’s trademark vibrant street life.
4. Vomero (blue above)
Funiculars chug up a steep slope from stations in Chaia and Spagnoli to this hilltop retreat, a world removed from other parts of Naples. Up here, tree-shaded streets are lined with well-kept apartment blocks and pedestrian walkways lead to the airy lookouts over the city. A stay up here surrounds you with a bit of serenity away from the chaos of the streets at your feet.
5. Piazza Garabaldi (purple above)
This block’s-long square lends its name to one of Naple’s less fashionable neighborhoods and is the city’s transit hub. Crowds, street hawkers, noise, and overall chaos aside, convenience is why you’ll want to consider staying here. The central train station and main bus depot are here, as are stops for the metro (subway) and Circumvesuviana trains to Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Sorrento.
Some of the side streets are sketchy, but the square and major avenues are busy and brightly lit, and some of the city’s larger, business-oriented hotels are near the station, as are some well-kept smaller bed and breakfasts.
1. Centro Storico
Best for: Travelers who want to be near the main sights, weekenders and others on short visits, anyone who wants to see Naples’ high-octane and vibrant street life
Pros: Real Neapolitan life is on full display, extremely lively, vast majority of big sights are here, tons of restaurants and bars
Cons: Can be touristy, the tight warren of streets get noisy, there are always crowds, housing is old and tightly packed so your accommodation may be dark and lack an elevator
Via Benedetto Croce (AKA Spaccanapoli). Photo: Velvet, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Via dei Tribunali. Photo: Berthold Werner, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Corso Umberto, one of the city center’s main streets. Photo: Armando Mancini, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Piazza Dante in the Centro Storico. Photo: Mstyslav Chernov, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
This is the heart of the city, as it has been since the Greeks settled ancient Neapolis 2,700 years ago, and it’s where you’ll want to stay if you want to experience Neapolitan life to the fullest. The Centro Storico is also sometimes known as Spaccanapoli (literally, Naples Splitter) for the straight, narrow street that now goes by Via Benedetto Croce, and that has sliced through the neighborhood since the Greeks first founded the city.
The livelier Via dei Tribunali, a few blocks north, also cuts an ancient east–west swath, and you’ll probably be traversing this narrow street many times if you stay here, fighting crowds as you go. And Via Duomo is one of the other principal streets, running north to south through about the middle of the neighborhood.
For anyone who bases themselves here, you should expect to be hit full force with the richness of Neapolitan life and its treasure trove of historical wonders. The center is busy and chaotic, with a labyrinth of narrow little streets criss crossing and meandering their way all through the area.
People are always out and about, and you’ll see a mix of locals and tourists everywhere you go. This is very much still somewhere that regular people live, so it’s a mix of sights, businesses/commerce, and residences.
As you walk around the area, you’ll find countless faded palaces, gorgeous Gothic and Renaissance churches, lovely squares and monuments, museums, trattorias spilling onto the streets, little food shops, and tons of pizzerias, including what many Neapolitans consider to be the city’s best, Sorbillo (Michele, the other top choice, is just around the corner).
There are tons of sights here (some of which I’ve listed below), as well as an absurd number places to eat and drink, and you could basically spend your whole visit to Naples in this area and not run out of things to see or do. You can easily just start walking aimlessly in any direction and come across sight after sight. It’s awesome.
In Napoli Sotterranea, the ancient underground passages lead past Greek streets, a Roman theater, and into ancient waterworks used as World War II bomb shelters. A few steps north along Via Duomo brings you to the cathedral where Neapolitans gather three times a year to witness the dried blood of city patron San Genaro liquify (failure to do so portends calamity).
A wander south into a warren of little alleys leads to the Capella Sanservero, where extraordinary statues are sheathed in veil- and netlike swaths of transparent marble, and the restful cloister of the Monastero di Santa Chiara and its columns and benches covered in colorful Mallorca tiles.
In the northwest corner of the neighborhood is one of the world’s great repositories of ancient art, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, filled with frescoes and other treasures excavated at Pompeii and Herculaneum.
To the south is Piazza Municipio, where just beyond the beautiful Fontana del Nettuno is the formidable, turreted Castel Nuovo, where crocodiles once snacked on prisoners confined to the dungeons.
When it comes to getting around, the center is well-served by Metro line 1, which makes a very convenient loop all around it. There are no stops within the neighborhood itself, but you’ll find them frequently on its outer edge. So although you’ll always have to do a bit of walking to get to the metro (probably around 10 minutes), you’ll have stops nearby at most any time. And given how much fun this area is and the quantity of things to see, you’ll probably find that you’d just rather walk anyways.
As for accommodation, no other neighborhood in Naples has as many places to stay, and the selection here is excellent. Options range from Airbnbs to modest bed and breakfasts in converted apartments to fashionable little guest houses and inns. Given the neighborhood’s historic character, larger hotels are a relative rarity here though.
If you want to be in the center but slightly removed from the noise and activity, I’d suggest looking in the northern portion of it, around the archaeological museum and Piazza Bellini, or to the south, near Piazza Municipio.
Where to stay
Costantinopoli 104 - The best rooms in this Art Nouveau palace open off the sprawling rooftop terrace, and all enjoy the palm-shaded courtyard with a bean-shaped swimming pool. The archaeological museum is just up the street. From 300€
Decumani Hotel de Charme - The narrow streets outside are a bit rundown, but the former palace of a 19th-century cardinal is grand and rooms surround a stunning centerpiece—a frescoed ballroom where breakfast is served. From 150-300€.
Dante House - These chic surroundings on Piazza Dante are stylish, welcoming, and super well-located for exploring the sights. Many of the options are little apartments with multiple rooms/beds so this is a great option for families or big groups. They have a 2-night minimum, so just be aware of that. From around 250€
Hotel Piazza Bellini - Soothingly minimalist rooms surround an outdoor courtyard “living room”, while the archaeological museum and lively Piazza Bellini are just outside the door. From 120€.
Tredici Boutique Rooms - Two amiable brothers oversee their meticulously restored apartment, an attractive, comfortable and friendly base in the heart of the city. From 120€.
BnB Naples - A homey little inn fashioned out of converted law offices in an old palace just off Piazza Municipio. You’ll have a prime location near the port, Centro Storico, Chaia, and the Santa Lucia seafront. From 80€.
2. Quartieri Spagnoli
Best for: Anyone who wants to balance proximity to the sights with a fun and authentic residential neighborhood. People who plan to move around a lot (it’s really well connected)
Pros: This is the Naples you’ve seen in photos; extremely lively but less touristic than the Centro Storico, near to all the sights, great and inexpensive restaurants
Cons: Cramped, loud, hectic, streets can be steep, accommodation is old
The Spanish Quarter, with the Certosa di San Martino rising above. Photo: © José Luiz Bernardes Ribeiro / CC BY-SA 4.0
A typical little street in the Spanish Quarter. Photo: Argo Navis, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Houses in the Spanish Quarter. Photo: © José Luiz Bernardes Ribeiro / CC BY-SA 4.0
One of the many Maradona murals in the neighborhood. Photo: Argo Navis, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Just to the west of the historic center, this gritty little neighborhood might just offer up the very best of both worlds: it’s an authentic Neapolitan neighborhood where you’ll get the color and buzz of the Centro Storico but without the touristic crush. And when you want to do your sightseeing, the city’s big attractions are still only a short walk away. Honestly, this is probably my favorite neighborhood in the city.
It can be very intense and its not in any way polished or catering to visitors, so it might not be to everyone’s liking, but it simply cannot be beat when you’re looking for the urban edge, energy, and buzz that Naples is known for.
The Spanish Quarter takes its name from the troops who were garrisoned here during the Spanish occupation of Naples in the 16th century, and it’s an incredibly dense little area, wedged between Via Toledo, the city’s main shopping street, and the slopes of Vomero Hill.
This is the Naples you’ve seen in photos; narrow winding streets with laundry hanging overhead between colorful and absurdly tightly packed apartment blocks. Street art also abounds here, with bright murals all over, many depicting local soccer legend Diego Maradona. The architecture is in varying states of repair/disrepair, and that’s honestly a big part of the charm.
Many of the alley-like lanes, often dimly lit, become flights of steep stairways, including the monumental Pedamentina, a series of switchbacks along which 400 steps connect the neighborhood with the hilltop Certosa di San Martino, a charterhouse turned museum at the edge of Vomero.
There aren’t a ton of major sights here, but another one worth checking out is the lively Pignasecca market. It always provides a colorful introduction to the local cuisine, as well as to the wheeling and dealing that is a Neapolitan specialty. It’s hectic, busy, and lots of fun. Plus you’ll eat fantastically while learning a bit about the local culture.
As I said above, I think this area is great and I always have a great time when I stay here, but there are some things to be aware of: one of the big ones is that Vespas, the preferred mode of transport for neighborhood residents, will be constantly buzzing beneath your windows well into the night. And the farther west you go from Via Toledo, the darker and more empty the little lanes become, especially later in the evenings.
Many streets also turn into steep steps, meaning you might have to do a bit of climbing. So you should carefully check the location of your lodging when booking, and in general, I’d recommend trying to find somewhere near Via Toledo on the eastern edge of the neighborhood.
For getting around, the Toledo metro stop is your best bet, but given that this quarter is just a short walk to everything in the Centro Storico or Santa Lucia and Chiaia, and an easy funicular ride up to Vomero, you probably will walk basically everywhere.
Regarding accommodation, you’ll mostly find little inns tucked into centuries-old buildings. While they are charming, because of how densely packed everything is, you should expect potentially cramped quarters and to sometimes have windows that open up right onto another building (ie. it could be dark).
Where stay
Hotel Il Convento - A former convent offers cozy accommodations, with terraces off some rooms, in the heart of the lively neighborhood. From 150€.
Via Toledo 156 - Comfortable and colorful rooms are well located between the Toledo metro station and Piazza Plebiscito. From 140€.
Spaccanapoli Comfort Suites - In a beautifully renovated period apartment, large and stylish rooms come with superb service. From 120€.
IStayinToledo - A light-filled guesthouse tucked away in a 1920s apartment block is right off Via Toledo, perfectly poised for enjoying the Spanish Quarter and Centro Storico. From 110€.
Starita Bed and Pizza - Naples is famous for pizza, so it’s only fitting to settle into one of these homey rooms above one of the city’s most acclaimed pizzerias. From 80€.
3. Santa Lucia & Chiaia
Best for: Anyone after a quieter, more refined experience. Visitors who want to be by the sea
Pros: Elegant and refined, pretty architecture, waterfront with sea views, some nice parks, wonderful high-end hotels
Cons: Most everything is upscale and expensive, somewhat removed from the main sights and other areas of interest, doesn’t feel quintessentially Neapolitan
Piazza del Plebiscito in Santa Lucia. Photo: Baku, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Buildings along the Riviera di Chiaia street in Chiaia. Photo: Sordelli, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Galleria Umberto I. Photo: Mstyslav Chernov, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Naples is on its best behavior in these adjoining, elegant neighborhoods to the southwest of the Spanish Quarter.
Here, beside the sea, the atmosphere is genteel and refined, but still distinctively Neapolitan. With a stay in either area, you’ll be trading in the sights and vibrant street life of the Centro Storico for a sophisticated and calm area that’s populated by well-off locals who live a bit differently from their neighbors in the more crowded parts of the city center.
If you want to experience Naples but don’t feel like you need to be in the middle of the chaos at all times, I think this can be an excellent base. You’ll be able to head into the city center to tour the sights and see the endless activity, but can escape back to your lovely waterfront haven whenever you need a break.
Atmosphere aside, I think the big allure of this area is the view from the wonderful seaside promenade, Lungomare Partenope. The sight of the Bay of Naples, with Capri floating in the distance and turreted Castel dell’Ovo in the foreground, could melt the chilliest heart and inspire even the most tone deaf to hum a few bars of “Santa Lucia.” And on hot days, strolling along the promenade and enjoying the sea breeze is pretty unbeatable.
The Spanish and French royalty who ruled Naples in the 18th and 19th centuries took up residence here in the elegant Palazzo Reale, facing a square unlike any other in Naples, the orderly, colonnaded Piazza del Plebiscito. The aristocracy of the day soon joined the royals, settling in Chaia and Santa Lucia and building lovely palaces faciing the sea. Today, those palaces house some of the city’s grandest and most expensive hotels.
The buildings here are much less densely packed than in the Historic Center or Quartieri Spangoli, the streets are wider (as are the sidewalks), and the overall feeling is much more open and less claustrophobic. There’s no question that it’s still historic, and the architecture is very, very pretty, but it’s different from the intimate and closed in feel of those other neighborhoords.
One of the area’s main streets - heavily pedestrianized Via Chiaia - climbs up from the grand and stately Piazza Trieste e Trento in Santa Lucia all the way into Chiaia. Along the way, it’s lined by upscale shops, restaurants, and cafés with pretty terraces, making it a very nice place to stroll, shop, or dine.
Just to the south, branching off from the Partenope promenade is the Castel dell’Ovo, a onetime royal residence that now houses the Borgo Marinaro, a former’s fisherman’s quarter that is now. absolutely packed with excellent restaurants very popular with locals.
These areas are also blessed with a few very nice green spaces, a rarity in Naples, like the Villa Comunale, (a former royal garden where the hoi polloi now enjoys themselves), the Molosiglio Gardens, and the Gardens of the Royal Palace. Don’t underestimate how nice it is to have some shade and greenery to escape to on the hot summer days here.
These refined surroundings also gave rise to landmarks like the Galleria Umberto I, a glass-roofed shopping arcade that, while not as fashionable as it once was, still impressively evokes the more refined aspects of Naples.
Then there’s the Teatro San Carlo, the world’s oldest opera house, which has hosted many of the greatest singers since as far back as 1737. So, while they’re not loaded with sights, there are a few big ones that you can easily visit when staying here.
All in all, these are two really nice neighborhoods and I think basically anyone will enjoy staying in them. Simply put, they are pleasant places to just be. However, most people come to Naples in search of at least a bit of the mayhem for which the city is famous, and neither of Chiaia nor Santa Lucia really deliver that (they’re too refined and elegant for that to be the case).
The only other drawback I can think of is that they’re a bit removed from the city center sights, so if you’re planning to do a lot of sightseeing in that part of town, you’ll have longer travel times and will need to rely on a fair deal of public transportation. With that said, there are at least 5 metro stops between the two neighborhoods, so as long as you’re ok taking the metro, you’ll be able to get everywhere pretty quickly.
Where to stay
Grand Hotel Vesuvio - The city’s most famous waterfront hotel is a bastion of Old-world glamour. From 540€.
Grand Hotel Parker’s - A refined old palace on a hillside above the bay has been welcoming guests since 1870 and still does so with great style. From 400€.
Art Resort Galleria Umberto - The upper floors of the Art Nouveau–style Galleria Umberto II shopping arcade is the unusual location of a similarly distinctive inn. From 140€.
Micalò Art Rooms - A quiet position at the western edge of the Villa Comunale gardens, along with calm, soothing interiors, make this contemporary little inn tucked away in an old palazzo a real retreat, yet Via Chaia is only a short walk away. From 140€.
Chiaja Hotel de Charme - A former aristocratic residence and erstwhile upscale brothel is now a welcoming hotel on lively Via Chaia. From 110€.
Orsini46 - Charming quarters in an old apartment house near the seafront have all the feeling of a home away from home. From 100€.
4. Vomero
Best for: Travelers who want to stay in relatively calm surroundings
Pros: The views over the sprawling metropolis, Bay of Naples, and Mount Vesuvius are breathtaking. Vomero’s upscale cocktail lounges, cafes, and restaurants are popular with well-heeled Neapolitans.
Cons: Doesn’t have that classic Neapolitan atmosphere, steep uphill climbs, well removed from the center
The view over the city from the gardens of the Certosa di San Martino monastery in Vomero. Photo: Baku, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Piazza Vanvitelli, Vomero’s central square. Photo: Armando Mancini, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Looking down the Salita del Petraio stairs from Vomero. Photo: Rémy Lee, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Via Alessandro Scarlatti in the evening. Photo: Johnnyrotten, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Hilltop Vomero, lying to the west of the Historic Center and due north of the Spanish Quarter, is where many Neapolitans move up to when they’ve decided that it’s time to escape the clamor of the inner city. This is a mostly quiet and relaxed residential area, and the streets up here are much less gritty than many of those below. Adding to that are the truly superb views, which in my mind are the biggest reason to stay here.
The neighborhood is filled with incredible outlooks, and the closer you stay to them (mostly on its eastern edge), especially around Castel Sant’Elmo and Certosa di San Martino, the better. You might get lucky enough to have a gorgeous city and sea view right from your accommodation, but even if not, you’ll be able to step out from it and quickly enjoy sweeping vistas.
Staying on the eastern side of Vomero will also put you quite near the funiculars that run up and down the hill, making your descents down to and ascents back up from the city below much, much easier.
Vomero developed much later than the other parts of the city that I’ve described to this point, so it’s very modern by comparison and feels more or less like any other middle-class enclave in an Italian city. That’s not a bad thing, as middle class areas of Italian cities are really nice (!!), but I just want you to be aware that it doesn’t feel much at all like the Naples you’ve probably been picturing.
Based on the architecture and the atmosphere alone, you would never guess you were in Naples if you were simply dropped in here.
That doesn’t mean that Vomero is not without its own “flavor” though. The always-fun Mercato di Antignano food market is great for people watching and picking up some local produce. Meanwhile, in the eastern part of the neighborhood, the medieval Castel Sant’ Elmo offers incredible views over the city and bay that are perhaps rivaled only by the viewpoint from the adjacent Certosa di San Martino. A former monastery turned museum, it’s now filled with Neapolitan art and artifacts, and of course, great views.
Laid out more or less in a neat grid, the neighborhood is also easy to navigate and makes for easy walking. Impressive Piazza Vanvitelli is the main square here, off from which lots of pleasantly busy streets branch off, filled with a mix of local shops, international chains, cafes, bars, and restaurants of all kinds.
The neighborhood also has a welcome spot of greenery, the gardens of the Villa Floridiana, a 19th-centutry hillside retreat that King Ferdinand bought for his duchess wife in order to help her succumb to the city’s beauty.
When it comes to getting around, as I mentioned before, the funiculars that descend into the Quartieri Spagnoli and toward the Centro Storico are usually your best bet. Metro Line 1 also passes through here though, with 3 stops in the neighborhood (the principal one being at Piazza Vanvitelli). There are also some very steep staircases that will take you down into the city below.
So, although most city sights are not within walking distance, the area is pretty well connected by various modes of transport, so staying here won’t make it too difficult to do your sightseeing. You just need to be prepared for longer travel times, and to potentially rely on taxis at times, because the funiculars and metro stop running at 10:00 and 11:00 PM on weekdays (they go later on weekends though).
Realistically, Vomero probably doesn’t make sense for most people who are visiting Naples for the first time. It’s just too organized, calm, and different from what I think of as the city’s real essence. If it were my first time here, I’d want to delve straight into the madness and stay in one of the inner historic areas (Centro Storico or Quartieri Spagnoli).
Having said that, if you’re a returning visitor who just wants to be in a nice and pleasant area, or even a first-timer who really doesn’t like the idea of being in the middle of the chaos, it can be a really good choice. You’re still close enough to dip into the center whenever you want, but you can escape away in the evenings when you want a bit of peace and quiet. And the views… don’t get me started on those views!
Where to stay
Hotel San Francesco al Monte - A former convent halfway up the hillside between Spagnoli and Vomero is full of charm and character with amenities that include a sprawling rooftop garden and a cliff-side swimming pool. From 150€.
Weekend a Napoli - Character-filled rooms are in the heart of the neighborhood, near shops, restaurants, and the knockout views from the Castel Sant’Elmo and Certosa di San Martino. From 135€.
Conte Relais Suite - Refined and stylish lodgings are near shops and restaurants and, a real plus for getting around, the Medaglie d’Oro metro stop. From 100€.
Napoliseason Room and Breakfast - Comfortable rooms on a quiet residential street share a pleasant lounge and are next to the Montesanto funicular, putting the city center within easy reach. From 85€.
The Seventh Floor Suite - Sleek, contemporary rooms are perched atop an apartment house just off Piazza Vanvitelli, near shops and restaurants. From 80€.
5. Piazza Garibaldi
Best for: Travelers planning to day lots of day trips, anyone with an early morning train, bus, or flight
Pros: One word, convenience. Trains, buses, and the metro all operate from this busy square, so you can get anywhere and everywhere. Tons of hotels also.
Cons - A fair deal of pickpockets, you’ll see some unsavory characters, some areas feel dodgy at night
Piazza Garibaldi. Photo: Philip Mallis from Melbourne, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Porta Nolana, just off from Piazza Garibaldi. Photo: Sergioizzo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Trains at the Porta Nolana station. Photo: Philip Mallis from Melbourne, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Piazza Garibaldi is the name of the square and area that surrounds the Napoli Central train station. It typically gets a pretty bad rap for being dangerous, dirty, and drug-ridden, and I have to admit that its reputation is not entirely unfounded. More charitably, I’d describe the area as “colorful”, and I would advise you that you should approach it with a bit of caution. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t stay here!
Given what I’ve just said, I’m sure you’re wondering why I’ve included it in this list of recommended neighborhoods, and the reason for that is simple: convenience. This is the hub for all things public transportation in the city and great region, so staying here makes it incredibly easy to get around the rest of Naples as well as to nearby points of interest.
On foot, you can be on the eastern edge of the Centro Storico in as little as ten minutes, or even less if you take the metro or one of the many buses. You can also catch the Circumvesuviana train from here (at the Porta Nolana station), which is the line that will take you down to Pompeii or even as far south as Sorrento.
Alternatively, you’ll find trains going west to Pozzuoli, with its ancient ruins and volcanic landscapes of the Solfatara, or east to the magnificent palace and gardens of Caserta or even the nice city of Salerno.
If you’re using Naples as your base for exploring the rest of Campania and the Amalfi Coast, staying on or near to Piazza Garibaldi will significantly reduce your travel times.
In line with that, I mostly stay here when I have an early travel day the following morning. The main bus depot is right here, as is the train station, and there’s also a bus that runs straight to/from the airport, so basically no matter where else I’m headed, staying here makes it super easy to get an early start.
Convenience aside, I genuinely like this neighborhood. Yes, it can be a little bit downtrodden in parts and you do certainly need to keep your wits about you, but it’s also a lively place that provides a different perspective on Naples. One of Italy’s largest immigrant populations lives here, so it’s very diverse, the shopkeepers are always friendly, and good and inexpensive food is plentiful.
In fact, my favorite restaurant in Naples is here - the charmingly old-fashioned Mimi alla Ferrovia. Not far away, Sfogliatella Attanasio is an institution, hallowed ground for the famous Neapolitano sfogliatella.
They’ve also recently renovated Piazza Garibaldi, which has made the area a bit more pleasant than it once was, and the colorful Porta Nolana market, with its vociferous vendors hawking a rich bounty of food, is something every visitor should experience.
Another plus? Accommodation is inexpensive, so if you’re on a budget, you’ll find surprisingly good value hotels.
This area will definitely not be for everyone, and I’d certainly advise most older people and families to look elsewhere, and probably just about anyone who isn’t a pretty seasoned traveler. However, if you’re on a budget, are young and fearless, or just don’t mind a bit of grit, you’ll probably rather like it.
Where to stay
MGallery Palazzo Carcollo - Character-filled lodgings in an old palazzo surround a cloister courtyard. From 150€.
N’Agorà - Well-furnished and comfortable rooms are tucked away on the upper floors of an extremely well maintained apartment building right on Piazza Garibaldi. From 135€.
Domus Decorum - A family apartment just steps from the station has been redone with posh, soothing interiors and many comforts to provide a welcoming oasis. From 140€.
Alleria Rooms - Comfortable rooms share a lounge, coffee bar, and pleasant terrace. From 110€.
Casa di Luna - Bright, tidy rooms on the upper floor of an apartment building open to little balconies and some have sea views. From 90€.
More Amalfi Coast travel info
For more advice on your trip to the Amalfi Coast (and Italy in general), check out some of our other guides and itineraries!
Amalfi Coast
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