Sardinia Travel Guide - How to Plan a Sardinia Vacation
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Sardinia, Sardegna in Italian, is the second largest island in the Mediterranean (after Sicily) and is one of Italy’s 20 regions. It’s located 116 miles west of the coast of central Italy.
Famed for its fabulous beaches, it’s long been a favorite destination for vacationing Italians and Europeans, but it wasn’t until the last decade that it started to become popular with North Americans as well.
Almost the same size as Sicily in terms of area, Sardinia has only 1.5 million inhabitants compared to Sicily’s 5 million. The island is sparsely populated and most Sardinians live in four major urban areas: Cagliari, Sassari, Olbia, and Nuoro.
While the coast has many small towns and villages, the interior of the island, with the exception of the rugged Barbagia region, is mostly uninhabited.
The vast majority of visitors come to Sardinia for the beaches, but there’s also much beyond just sea and sand. Mysterious Bronze Age ruins dot the hinterland and remains of important Roman towns lie on windswept coasts, lapped by the sea.
There is also ample opportunity for fabulous hiking and outdoor activities in the mountains of the Barbagia and terrific gastronomic experiences at agriturismi, vineyards, farms, and local artisan producers all over the island.
Come for the beaches, stay for everything else!
More Sardinia travel info:
For more ideas on planning a trip here, check out my 7-day Sardinia itinerary and this list of 30 Sardinia travel tips.
If you could use some one-on-one help planning your itinerary, schedule a Sardinia travel consultation!
Table of contents
A brief history of Sardinia
Where is Sardinia?
Intro to traveling in Sardinia
When to visit
How many days to spend
How to get to Sardinia
Transportation and getting around
Airports in Sardinia
Where to stay in Sardinia
Things to do in Sardinia
Guide to Sardinia’s regions and what to see in each
Northwest Sardinia
Northeast Sardinia
Southeast Sardinia
Southwest Sardinia
The Barbagia - inland
5-day, 6-day, and 10-day Sardinia itineraries
Local help with your planning
I’ve tried to share my best advice throughout this guide, but Sardinia is a big region and there’s a lot to cover. It’s also not possible to visit the whole island with less than 10-14 days, and any visitor here will have to make some tough choices on where to go and what to focus on.
So if you could use some help sorting through all your options, consider scheduling a Sardinia travel consultation with me!
These are one-hour Zoom calls where we can chat about the trip you’re planning and I’ll share my tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.
A brief history of Sardinia
The island, both in terms of geography and culture, is quite distinct from the rest of Italy.
There is evidence of inhabitation dating back to the Bronze age, and located at the crossroads of ancient Mediterranean trading routes, Sardinia has seen waves of colonization and foreign domination beginning with the Phoenicians, then the Romans, and, moving into more modern times, control of the island passing from the states of Pisa and Genova and then eventually to the Crown of Aragon (the Catalan/Spanish).
In the early 1700s the Aragonese ceded the Kingdom of Sardinia to the House of Savoy, one of Italy’s most powerful dynasties, to whom it would remain until Italian unification and the creation of the modern Italian state.
While various empires, kingdoms, and city states vied for nominal control over the island, with little in the way of natural resources and a not particularly strategic location, Sardinia was largely ignored by major powers and left to its own devices throughout history.
Sardinians are fiercely proud of their island and their heritage, and the result is a place that is often curiously different from the rest of Italy.
Where is Sardinia?
Sardinia is a large island in the middle of the Mediterranean sea. It’s 200 km (124 miles) west of mainland Italy, located roughly at the same latitude as Rome. Interestingly, southern Sardinia is as close to the coast of Africa (200 km away) as it is to mainland Italy. A flight from Rome to Cagliari (the island’s capital) takes one hour.
Within the Mediterranean, Sardinia is north of Tunisia and directly south of the French island of Corsica. To its east are the Balearic islands of Spain.
It is this location, quite literally at the crossroads of the Mediterranean, but still far enough from basically anywhere else, that has made Sardinia a bit of an anomaly in regards to culture, cuisine, and history. It’s certainly Italian, but it’s also certainly different.
Intro to traveling in Sardinia
Sardinia is a big island with a lot to see and explore. Highways, while decent in quality, are few and far between. They typically also only connect major towns and cities and often run inland instead of along the coast.
As most visitors want to putz along the coastline visiting towns, cities, and beaches, these highways aren’t convenient and your only option are slow-going local roads. Thus, what look like small distances on the map can actually be time-consuming journeys.
For those with limited time, it’s best to stick to one or two regions and not try to do too much. Choosing somewhere that is central to the various places you want to visit is paramount in order to limit time in the car and avoid doubling back on past days’ routes.
There are an almost unlimited number of incredible beaches to explore in Sardinia and the temptation is there to try to see all of them; cramming upwards of 3-4 beaches into a single day of touring. This is a bad idea.
At the end of the day, many of the beaches are pretty similar and you’ll just wind up spending all day in the car and cursing yourself as you struggle to park in packed lots and impossibly small spaces on the side of roads. We’ve made this mistake enough times to know that the right decision is to choose 1-2 beaches each day and enjoy them leisurely.
To help you decide where to go and how best to base yourself, we find it helpful to separate Sardinia into 5 primary regions: the northwest around Alghero and Sassari, the northeast around Olbia, the southeast near Villasimius, the southwest stretching from Cagliari to Oristano, and then the mountainous interior region known as the Barbagia.
Below are 5 quick descriptions of each region which we’ll explore more in-depth further into the article.
The northwest is home to the beaches of the Sinis peninsula, the elegant city of Alghero, lovely Bosa, the Roman ruins of Tharros, and Stintino beach.
The northeast is known for the Costa Smeralda’s (Emerald Coast) stunning coves and bays, La Maddalena archipelago, the Gallura coastline, and the pristine waters of the Gulf of Orosei.
The southeast has lovely Blue Flag-designated beaches near the port of Arbatax and more great beaches outside of Villasimius and Costa Rei. There is no real urban center here.
The southwest is a less-explored region that includes the capital city of Cagliari, the islands of Carloforte and Sant’Antioco, Roman ruins at Nora, and the wild beaches of the Costa Verde.
The Barbagia area in the interior offers culture, gastronomy, and outdoor activities for intrepid travelers looking to get off the beaten path and discover Sardinia at its most authentic.
Where you should stay in Sardinia depends on your interests, your budget, and how long your have.
When to visit Sardinia
Fall - Best time to visit
The best time to visit Sardinia is indisputably in the fall. The weather is warm enough for swimming throughout September and typically even until the end of October, and by this time of year the summer crowds are almost all gone. Prices are also much lower than in high season (summer).
You have daily average temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees; perfect for walking, cycling, swimming and other outdoor activities. The water temperature is also the warmest of any of time of the year, and the days are clear and sunny with very little rainfall.
From late September, the crowds have almost all departed and it will often feel like you have beaches entirely to yourself. Almost all businesses remain open through October, but you’ll see prices for things like rental cars, accommodation, and boat rentals all plummet.
The fall season is also the perfect time to visit the inland Barbagia region as the annual Autunno in Barbagia (Autumn in Barbagia) festival takes places in towns all throughout the interior.
Late spring - Good, but not as good as fall
Late spring is also an excellent time to visit Sardinia. The weather conditions are similar to those of early fall and the summer crowds have not yet arrived. From May through the first week of June, you’ll get great weather, and businesses, hotels, infrastructure, service providers, and just about everyone else will be up and running, but all without the summer price tags.
Summer - Full on beach season, but lots of crowds
In summer, the months of July and August are packed as holidaying Europeans and Italians all descend on Sardinia to hit the beach and escape the oppressive heat. The island is also roasting hot and outdoor activities can become unpleasant. Prices skyrocket as well and availability is limited just about everywhere.
Summer is Sardinia at it’s most “vacation-y” and a summer visit is a lot of fun, but you just need to be prepared for the potential downsides.
Winter - Not worth it for most people
Visiting Sardinia in the winter off season isn’t an outright bad idea, as the weather is good when compared with much of North America and Northern Europe. However, Sardinia is a beach destination and, while still lovely in winter, visiting an island without getting the chance to go swimming sort of defeats the point.
Connect with Simone, our Cagliari-based local expert, for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!
How many days to spend in Sardinia
I’ve already said it, but it bears repeating: Sardinia is a big island. What looks like small distances on the map can actually take a very long time to traverse. There are few highways and many destinations are only accessible by small, and slow, provincial roads. As most visitors come for the beaches, you’ll find yourself moving around a lot and this takes time.
For a first-time visitor, you need at least 10 days to see a good portion of Sardinia.
10 days, and 3 different bases, will let you explore most of the island’s highlights, though just the surface. In two weeks you could probably cover the entire island, though it’d still be a fast-paced trip.
With 10 days, you could plan to see 3 out of Sardinia’s 4 major regions. For example, you could spend 4 days exploring Cagliari and south Sardinia, a few days around Alghero in the Northwest, and a few days on the Costa Smeralda and Maddalena archipelago in the Northeast. To do so, you’d need to plan on 3-4 different bases, and you’d absolutely need a rental car.
If you have 7 days, you’re best sticking to just two regions; say, the areas around Alghero and the Costa Smeraldao or south Sardinia. Check out my 7-day southwest Sardinia itinerary for some ideas.
With 5 days, I’d recommend choosing one area that combines beaches and a bit of nature - a base in Cagliari for a day or two and then some time near the beaches of Teulada, Villasimius, or the Costa Verde.
Alternatively, you could spend 5 days beach hopping the stunning coves and bays of the coast between Orosei and Santa Teresa di Gallura.
Some visitors choose just one town, like Villasimius or Budoni, and spend their whole vacation on a few nearby beaches. That’s not our cup of tea, but it is a viable option if you’re just looking for sun, sea, and relaxation.
How to get to Sardinia
Unless you’re traveling with your own car, the easiest way to get to Sardinia is always to fly. Flights are plentiful from all over Italy and Europe, cheap, and quick. Sardinia also has 3 different airports, so no matter which area of the island you intend to visit, you shouldn’t have trouble finding a direct flight.
You also have the option of taking the ferry. Sardinia has two large ferry ports in the cities of Olbia and Cagliari as well as smaller terminals at Golfo Aranci, Arbatax, and Porto Torres. The ferry really only makes sense if you’re already in mainland Italy with a car or if you want to avoid flying. For travelers without a car, the ferry is rarely any cheaper than a flight (and often more expensive).
Plane
Sardinia’s 3 airports, Cagliari, Alghero, and Olbia, all have international connections with mainland Europe and a host of Italian cities (Rome, Milan, Naples, Pisa, Genova, Venice, Palermo, Bari, etc.). However, there are no direct flights to Sardinia from North America or anywhere outside of Europe.
Flights to Sardinia from within Italy take 1-1.5 hours. Tickets cost anywhere from 20 euros to 150 depending on the season and how far in advance you book. ITA Airways runs many routes as does Aeroitalia. Low-cost carriers Ryanair, Volotea, and EasyJet also provide many non-stop connections.
Sardinia is primarily a summer destination, so there are far more direct flights from May to October. Outside of the summer season, many cities will not offer direct flights or may only have 1-2 per week.
Ferry
Olbia and Cagliari are Sardinia’s two main ferry terminals and they have frequent connections to the port of Civitavecchia near to Rome. You also have ferries to Sardinia from Genova in Liguria, Livorno in Tuscany and, infrequently, from Palermo in Sicily.
Depending on your point of departure in mainland Italy, you may need to use a route that arrives to secondary ferry terminals in the Sardinian towns of Porto Torres or Arbatax. Which ferry terminal makes the most sense for you to arrive to depends entirely on the area of Sardinia you intend to visit.
If coming from outside of Italy, you have ferries from Barcelona, Spain and Marseilles, France.
Ferries often run during the night and almost all of them offer car transport.
In Italy, the two main ferry companies are Grimaldi Lines and Tirrenia. Moby Lines also runs various routes. With a car, expect to pay from 100 euros and up for a one-way ticket.
Where to buy ferry tickets
You can book tickets directly on the company websites, but to check schedules and prices, I often recommend using Ferry Scanner. It’s an aggregator that shows options from a bunch of different ferry companies all in one place. Their schedules are always up to date, it’s easy to use, and the price difference between using them and booking direct is negligible.
Airports in Sardinia
The question of “which airport to fly to in Sardinia” gets asked all the time, and the easy answer is Cagliari. But it’s not actually so simple - there are 3 airports in Sardinia and which one you should fly into depends on where you to plan to visit.
Sardinia’s airports are located in the cities of Alghero, Olbia, and Cagliari. Alghero-Fertilia Airport covers the northwest of the island, Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport covers the Northeast, and Cagliari Elmas Airport covers the south.
For most trips to Sardinia, we recommend renting a car and checking out two different regions. Usually, that means that you should fly into one airport and out of another.
At the bottom of this page, you’ll find 6 sample itineraries for 5-day, 6-day, and 10-day itineraries in Sardinia. All but one of them require flying into and out of different airports. This way, you don’t lose a day traveling from one end of the island to another just to catch an outbound flight.
Think of it this way:
If your primary destination is the Costa Smeralda, La Maddalena, or the Gulf of Orosei, you should fly into Olbia.
If you want to visit Alghero and the northwest, you should of course fly into Alghero.
If you’ll be road tripping in South Sardinia and the Costa Verde, your airport of choice is Cagliari.
Where you fly out of will then depend on where your itinerary finishes.
Transportation in Sardinia
If you’re coming to Sardinia for more than a few days and want to sea beaches and nature outside of the cities, you absolutely have to rent a car.
Public transportation in Sardinia is extremely limited and, with the exception of around Cagliari and a few other cities, the only regular connections are those between major towns and cities. You will not be able to rely on buses to get you to the beach or just about anywhere else of interest.
Even for those with more time and who can afford to lose hours making connections, it just doesn’t make sense to come here and try to move around without a car.
If you don’t heed this advice and still plan to come without renting a car, make sure you choose one or two areas that have a town or city center with good amenities, frequent bus connections, and walkable distances to local beaches.
Also bear in mind that, although a small looking island on the map, Sardinia is big. It takes 3 hours to get to both Olbia or Alghero from Cagliari.
Even in the north, Olbia to Alghero will take you two hours. And each of these routes is on a superstrada (a highway) that cuts through the interior and won’t afford pleasant views. If you opt for the scenic route, you’ll be going on slower coastal roads that will add many more hours to each day.
So, if you’re thinking about visiting lots of places in Sardinia, know that you will routinely find yourself with an hour or more of driving ahead of you.
If relying on public transport, know that the best beaches are typically further out of the way and buses won’t get you to them. The beaches that you can access will, of course, be the most crowded. In shoulder season, that might not be a problem. But in the heart of summer, you don’t want to be confined to only beaches teeming with other people.
Renting a car
If you choose to rent a car while in Sardinia (and you should) there are lots of companies to choose from, with widely varying prices and car conditions. You’ll find all the big international companies here, as well as a host of smaller, locally owned ones.
In general, you should plan on picking up a car at whatever airport you arrive to. Cagliari, Olbia, and Alghero airports and city centers all have lots of car rental options to choose from.
Because it often makes sense for Sardinia itineraries to start and end at different airports, be aware that one-way drop off fees may apply for rentals with different pick-up and drop-off locations.
To check prices and book, I recommend using the following two car rental websites:
DiscoverCars includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
AutoEurope tends to be more expensive, but they only list options from large, well-reviewed companies and their customer service is excellent. Their deals often include “zero deductible” (i.e. full coverage) rental insurance.
Where to stay in Sardinia
Where to stay in Sardinia or where to base yourself on the island is an impossible question to answer. Each region has its own appeal and is best for certain types of travelers.
For anyone with 5 days or more, and a car, our recommendation is always to try to see two different regions.
Unlike many other regions of Italy, there isn’t so much in the way of cities, art, and history to explore in Sardinia.
Even the cities of Alghero and Cagliari, which are pretty, have relatively little in the way of obvious sights. Most towns have none of their historical architecture remaining and there are relatively few museums and sites of archeological and cultural interest.
While this might sound disappointing, it shouldn’t. At the end of the day, it just means that you can focus on what Sardinia does best; nature!
Without the constant fear of missing out, you can dedicate yourself to beach hopping, hiking, cycling, road trips, boating, leisurely lounging, and whatever other outdoor pursuits you enjoy. And eating - lots of eating!
So, then where should you base yourself? Rather than tell you our opinion on the right area for you (an impossible task), we’ve broken Sardinia down into 5 major regions and given you information about each area’s major attractions and vibe.
Just pick which areas sound like a good fit for you!
Things to do in Sardinia
Sardinia is a summer destination and most people come here for the beach and the sea. Rightly so! But there’s also actually quite a lot more to do. The island has interesting terrain with a mountainous interior, rugged coastal cliffs, flat sandy beaches, densely forested patches, and an interesting network of caves. There are also many charming towns and small cities that make for fun day trips.
1. Hit the beach
Every trip to Sardinia is likely to focus on going to the beach, and this makes sense; they’re the best in Europe! Each area of the coast has its own appeal, but in general the coves of the Costa Smeralda are the cutest, calmest, and most picturesque.
La Maddalena archipelago is stunning, the beaches of the Costa Verde are wild and pristine, and the southern coast is great for boat trips and beach hopping while still being close to busy urban areas.
2. Take a boat trip
In Sardinia, there are few things better than getting a boat and spending a day on the water. In many places you can rent your own little dingy/Zodia boat (called a gommone in Italian), but you can also join a tour or hire a private boat captain. Some of the best towns from which to take boat trips are Cala Gonone, Orosei, Arbatax, Teulada, and Buggerru.
3. Explore cave systems
Sardinia has a fascinating network of caves, filled with stalactites and stalagmites. The island is rich in minerals and was once heavily mined. The area around Porto Flavia in the island’s southwest has very interesting tours, but you also have sea caves and grottoes throughout, especially around Alghero.
4. Go hiking
Most people don’t think of Sardinia as an outdoors destination, but they should! There is good hiking (and biking) all over the island. The best area for outdoors enthusiasts, though, is in the Supramonte mountains in the interior Barbagia region.
From towns like Dorgali, Baunei, and Oliena you have fantastic day and multi-day hikes through rugged granite mountains and untouched wilderness. The most famous hike is a short and relatively easy hike near to Baunei that takes you into one of Europe’s deepest canyons - Su Gorropu.
5. Visit pre-historic settlements
Prior to the arrivals of Carthaginians, Romans, the Spanish, then and modern day Italians, Sardinia was once settled by a mysterious Bronze Age people. Little is known about them, but evidence of their history here can be seen in the countless “Nuraghe” stone structures and complexes that dot the island. Visitors can tour the ruins and learn about the history and culture of the island. Su Nuraxi di Barumini is probably the most famous ruins complex, but there are many all over.
6. Eat, eat, eat
Sardinian cuisine is fantastic, fresh, and very different from that of mainland Italy. Along the coast, you’ll always find fabulous seafood while inland things turns more towards wonderful roast pork, spicy and aged pecorino cheeses, and seasonal vegetables.
Where to visit in Sardinia
To help you think about where you’d like to go in Sardinia, I’ve included an interactive map with pins for some of my favorite locations all around the island.
Each location pinned on the map is described in more detail in the regional guides below.
Northwest Sardinia
Northwest Sardinia includes the two cities of Alghero and Sassari. The region is most easily accessed from the city of Alghero which has an international airport used by many low-cost European carriers. Alghero airport has connections with many Italian cities as well as lots of flights from England and Scandinavia.
Sassari is actually the larger city of the two, but Alghero’s seaside location, elegant architecture, and its international airport make it the much more popular tourist destination.
Alghero is certainly Sardinia’s most atmospheric city and its an excellent choice for couples, as well as just about everyone else. The surrounding region offers a nice mix here of interesting towns and cities along with fantastic beaches.
Alghero was the center of Spanish rule in Sardinia for centuries and the Aragonese built some of their most lovely buildings in the city. The cheerful, multi-colored tiled roof churches are one reminder of the Aragonese’s past presence here. The local dialect of Sardo (the Sardinian language) is another; it is tinged with both Spanish and Catalan.
While the region doesn’t offer the same number of beaches as others, it offers more in the way of historic towns and cities to explore. A little under an hour to the south of Alghero is the picturesque town of Bosa, probably the prettiest in Sardinia. To the north, as you round the coast heading east, medieval Castelsardo sits atop the cliffs and is a joy to explore for a few hours.
For ancient hisotry buffs, the Phoenician and Roman ruins at Tharros make for a good addition to a day of beach hopping along the coast of the Sinis peninsula.
Best places to visit in Northwest Sardinia
1. Alghero
Alghero is a charming coastal city of about 40,000 people. It has a well-preserved historical core, a decent city beach, and elegant promenades along the old city walls that line the seafront.
You have good restaurants, a fine selection of accommodation, and easy access to the region beyond.
2. Capo Caccia promontory and Grotta di Nettuno
The Capo Caccia promontory is just to the north of Alghero and, from the top, offers one of Sardinia’s best sunset viewpoints. The Grotta di Nettuno is a cave complex at the very tip of the promontory where visitors can take guided tours to see massive stalactites and stalagmites. It’s a very popular outing from Alghero.
3. Le Bombarde, Lazzaretto, and Mugoni beaches
Three lovely beaches all just a few minutes drive (or bus) from the center of Alghero. Mugoni is certainly the nicest.
4. Stintino and La Pelosa beach
Stintino is a town about 45 kms north of Alghero that is home to La Pelosa beach, an iconic stretch of pearl-white sand with a sea that seems to divide into three hues of stunning blue.
The entire beach is watched over by a solitary Aragonese watch tower on an opposite bank. It’s one of Sardinia’s most evocative beaches.
More on Stintino in my guide to Sardinia’s best beaches.
5. Bosa town
Bosa is a charming town about an hour south of Alghero. The center is divided in two by a river and an imposing castle towers over the city from a nearby hillside. The historic core is a jumble of multi-colored buildings that make for a pleasant wander.
Learn more about Bosa in my One week Sardinia itinerary.
6. Sinis Peninsula
The Sinis peninsula is technically in the province of Oristano and is debatable whether this is Northwest or Southwest Sardinia. We call it Northwest. It’s a protected area of lovely thin beaches with soft white sands.
7. Roman and Phoenician ruins at Tharros
Dating back over two thousand years, the ruins at Tharros are excellently preserved and your best chance to see evidence of Punic and Roman history in Sardinia.
8. Medieval Castelsardo
An hour northeast of Alghero, Castelsardo is a pretty medieval town perched atop a cliff with a fabulously preserved 1,000 year old castle. The castle houses an excellent museum about traditional basketweaving in Sardinia. It’s a great place to pick up some artisan souvenirs.
Northeast Sardinia
Northeast Sardinia is far and away the most famous part of the island and it’s the home of the world-renowned Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) and the fabulous archipelago of La Maddalena. The area is accessible from the city of Olbia with an international airport that offers connections to mainland Italy and all over Europe.
The Costa Smeralda is a short stretch of coast just north of the city of Olbia and it became famous a few decades ago as a place for jet-setting Arab sheiks, Russian oligarchs, ex Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi, and much of the rest of the world’s elite.
The center is around the wealthy enclaves of Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo where elegant private villas and ostentatious mansions dot the hillsides.
Those without billions in the bank should plan on a day trip here, as accommodation prices are eye watering. If you do find a reasonable hotel, you’re likely to be competing for open parking spaces with Ferraris and Lamborghinis…
There isn’t much to see in the region in the way of history or culture, but the beaches are jaw-dropping. If you take a look at a map, you’ll understand why. The entire coast is made up of countless little bays and inlets with calm waters whose shades of blue remind more of the Maldives than the Mediterranean.
Best places to visit in Northeast Sardinia
1. La Maddalena archipelago
La Maddalena is a series of islands whose waters are jaw-dropping shades of blue.
Located just off the tip of the Costa Smeralda, and beyond any doubt the location of some Sardinia’s best beaches, barely any foreign visitors went there prior to 2008. This is because it was the site of a major NATO naval base until its closure in that year, and interest in tourism was almost nonexistent.
2. Costa Smeralda beaches
The Emerald Coast is a stretch of beaches to the north of Olbia that runs from Porto Rotondo to Palau. You’ll find charming little coves one after another with huge red rocks on either side forming perfectly calm inlets.
Some of our favorite beaches are: Cala dell’Ulticeddu, Spiaggia Tanca Manna, Spiaggia Piccolo Pevero, Spiaggia del Principe, Spiaggia di Capriccioli, and Cala Petra Ruja.
3. Wild beaches of Santa Teresa di Gallura
Though far less popular than the beaches of La Maddalena or the Costa Smeralda, there are any number of excellent beaches surrounding the small town of Santa Teresa di Gallura. They’re less protected though and are longer stretches of wide open sands.
These beaches are popular with wind surfers, kite boarders, and even some surfers.
4. Golfo di Orosei (Orosei gulf)
The gulf of Orosei, south of Olbia, has two fabulous long beaches in the towns of Orosei and Budoni. But the real draw are the beaches further south that are only accessible by hiking trail or boat.
5. Cala Gonone
Cala Gonone itself is a tiny fishing town that has now become the capital of rock climbing in Sardinia and Italy. It’s also the best place to either rent a boat or hire a captain for a day of glorious beach hopping in the Gulf or Orosei.
As you hug the coast south of town, you’ll pass one mindbogglingly beautiful beach after another. The fabulous beaches of Cala Mariolu, Cala Luna, Cala Goloritzé, Cala dei Gabbiani, and Cala Sisine, most of which are only accessible by boat, are some of the best in Sardinia.
Discover more of the island’s best beaches in my guide to Sardinia’s best beaches.
Southeast Sardinia
Southeast Sardinia is much less visited than the two regions in the north and its appeal is different. The region is most easily reached from the capital city of Cagliari whose airport is the best connected on the island and offers the most daily flights.
Beginning to the south of the port town of Arbatax (just at the end of the Gulf of Orosei), the beaches are sandy and unspoiled, with almost no development near them. The beaches of Orrí, Cea, and Bari Sardo are particularly lovely and various of them have received Blue Flag designations.
To the south, the coastline becomes rocky and inaccessible in places until you reach the promontory of Capoferrato and the resort towns of Villasimius and Costa Rei. The two areas are essentially one long stretch of sandy beaches with a few towns, resorts, and hotels built up behind them. The beaches outside of both towns are excellent, though they are extremely busy in the summer months and on weekends.
Heading in the direction of Cagliari, you have good hiking opportunities in the Sette Fratelli park and one of our favorite beaches, Mari Pintau.
Simone has answers!
Connect with Simone in Cagliari for the best local info and help planning a better trip to Sardinia!
Best places to visit in Southeast Sardinia
1. Cea beach
Spiaggia di Cea is a Blue Flag-designated beach south of the town of Arbatax. It’s a long strip of white sand with some very neat red rock formations jutting out of the water. The beach is shallow and calm, making it great for kids. There’s lots of parking just behind the beach.
2. Orrì beach
Spiaggia di Lido di Orrì is another fantastic Blue Flag-designated beach about 10 minutes’ drive from Cea beach. The composition is almost identical. It’s equally fabulous.
3. Beaches of Bari Sardo
Bari Sardo is a little down just south of the beaches of Orrì and Cea and makes for a decent base for visiting the beaches of the area. It has it’s own beach at Spiaggia di Torre di Bari which is a wide and extensive beach which is made up of tiny little pebbles instead of sand.
It’s different from Cea and Orrì in that the water becomes deep immediately, so it’s great for people who like to swim without having to wade out hundreds of meters! Not nearly as famous as other neighboring beaches, it also never gets crowded.
4. Villasimius & Costa Rei
South of the Capoferrato promontory and only a 1-hour drive from the city of Cagliari, Costa Rei and Villasimius are two of the most popular beach areas in southern Sardinia.
On weekends throughout the summer season, the beaches are filled with vacationing tourists and locals coming for the day from Cagliari and nearby towns. The area is one of the most developed beach destinations in southern Sardinia and there are resorts, hotels, private villas, and camp grounds all around.
The beaches here are wide, sandy, and well-serviced; you have beach kiosks, restaurants, and water sport rental facilities directly on the sand. The town of Villasimius itself is uninteresting, but it has all the amenities you could need for a multi-day stay.
For those who prefer wild beaches, it probably won’t be your cup of tea and you should certainly avoid the area during high season.
5. Sette Fratelli Park
Sette Fratteli park is about 35 minutes from both Cagliari and Villasimius. It’s a beautiful preserve on a small mountain that contains dense forest and lots of good hiking trails.
The old strada provinciale road that leads there from Cagliari is a really beautiful drive (or bike ride) as well.
6. Mari Pintau beach
Mari Pintau is a small rocky beach 40 minutes from Cagliari. It’s one of few beaches that can be easily reached with public transport from the city. Mari Pintau in the Sardo language means “painted sea” and the name was given because the many rocks on the beach and seabed are all different colors. It’s quite lovely.
The beach has no services on it, but the trail that leads to it from the roadside has one kiosk that is open in the summer. Parking is along the road and very limited, so if coming in high season, get here early.
Southwest Sardinia
Southwest Sardinia is the island’s least-visited region. It shouldn’t be! It boasts fabulous nature, beaches, archeological sites, and history. It’s reachable from Cagliari and the city’s Elmas airport.
Both in present day and in antiquity, this area was one of the most populated in Sardinia. For visitors, this means that you have the chance to combine visit to lovely towns and fishing villages with ancient history and ruins and beach lounging.
There are two stretches of coast in Southwest Sardinia and they are strikingly different from each other. The area between Cagliari and Sant’Antioco has little coves with sandy beaches, sand dunes, and calm waters of dazzling blue.
As you start to head north after Sant’Antioco and along the Costa Verde, the beaches become bigger, more open to the sea and the wind, and wilder. These are beaches for nature lovers and fans of solitude. The area is becoming more and more popular with cyclists and hikers.
Best places to visit in Southwest Sardinia
1. Cagliari
Cagliari is the capital of Sardinia and it’s largest city. It’s a busy town of 150,000 people and a good base for exploring south Sardinia.
There’s not much left of historic Cagliari, but the marina and waterfront are pleasant to walk, the urban Poetto beach is one of the best city beaches in the world, and the historic districts of Stampace, Villanova, and Castello are very atmospheric.
2. Chia beach
Chia and Pula are hands down two of the most famous beaches in southern Sardinia. The area is also home to the enormous 4-star Forte Village resort. In high season, do be aware that almost all of the beaches between Cagliari and Chia/Tueredda are extremely crowded.
The beaches have powdery white sand, gently deepening waters, and all manner of restaurants, bars, and beach facilities a few meters from the water.
3. Tuerredda beach
One of our favorite beaches on the entire island, Tueredda is a triangular beach whose two sides face Tueredda island. The colors here are extraordinary and perfectly stratified. In our opinion, it’s one of the most striking beaches anywhere in Sardinia. We only visit in the spring or fall as it can become overrun in high season.
4. Nora archeological site
Nora is an excellently preserved site of Phoenician and Roman ruins dating back thousands of years. The location, right between the fabulous beaches of Chia/Pula and Tuerredda, is perfect for a stop while beach hopping.
Even when ignoring the incredible evidence of over 2,000 years of human history here, the location alone is stirring; Phoenician and Roman ruins lie on a little promontory with lovely views of the turquoise waters that lap its shore.
5. Porto Zafferano and Teulada beaches
The small town of Teulada is an inconspicuous place and it rarely pops up on lists of Sardinia’s best beaches. But… if you know, you know.
The nearby coast was off limits for many years because it was used by the Italian navy and NATO for naval exercises, drills, and even to practice shelling. The naval base is now closed, but its presence means that the surrounding coastline is entirely undeveloped with untouched beaches and pristine waters.
Now, many of these little pieces of paradise can be reached by boat trip from Teulada’s marina.
There are very few operators though and tourism is still in its infancy here. So much so that many locals don’t even know that there are boat trips With no land access and limited boat accessibility, you have the beaches entirely to yourselves.
The Zebra-striped waters of Porto Zafferano are a particularly arresting sight.
6. Carloforte
Carloforte is a charming fishing village on the tiny island of San Pietro near to the town of Carbonia on the main island of Sardinia. Though the island is actually called Isola di San Pietro, most people refer to the entire place as Carloforte.
The town and island were settled by the Genovese (people from the city-state of Genova) and you can tell.
If you’ve ever seen the candy-colored towns of Liguria’s Cinque Terre, you might get déjà vu while visiting here. Carloforte is made up of brightly colored houses, narrow streets, and decently-preserved historic fortifications.
Some locals also still speak a dialect of Ligurian that is totally distinct from Sardinian.
On the island you have both sandy and rocky beaches and some good hiking trails. Accessible only by boat from the mainland or Sant’Antioco, a day trip is typically enough, but two days is even better!
7. Masua, Buggeru, and Portixeddu beaches
Located on the entirely undeveloped Costa Verde, these three beaches are backed by imposing cliffs and much more open to the sea than elsewhere. The sand here is soft and more golden than white and the waters can be rougher. Tourists rarely make it here and the beaches are uncrowded even in the heights of summer.
The glorious, wide stretch of sand at Portixeddu is our favorite of the bunch and looks more like a beach from the South Pacific than the Mediterranean. Don’t miss the excellent Ristorante L’Ancora in Portixeddu which affords fabulous views over the beach.
8. Pan di Zucchero
Pan di Zucchero means “Sugarloaf” in Italian and it’s an amazing island and rocky outcrop that rises out the sea off the coast near the beach of Masua.
The name comes from its resmeblance to the much more famous “Sugarloaf” that rises out of Guanabara Bay off the coast of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. While just looking at it is wonderful, the best thing to do is rent a boat in the town of Buggeru and get right up next to it.
The waters around it are beautiful and perfect for snorkeling. It can also be reached from the beach of Masua by tour or boat rental.
*Discover more of the island’s best beaches in our guide to Sardinia’s best beaches.
The Barbagia - inland Sardinia
The Barbagia is a mountainous, sparsely populated, and rugged region in the interior of Sardinia’s northeast. The capital of the region is the small city of Nuoro, birthplace of famed Sardinian author Grazia Deledda.
The Barbagia is totally different from everywhere else on this list, both geographically and culturally. It’s densely forested, mountainous, and there are no beaches. The area is Sardinia’s poorest and was once known as a land of outlaws and brigands.
Some of the towns have reputations as places where gangs of criminals would hide wealthy people who they had kidnapped in Sardinia (and mainland Italy) and were held for ransom. This is no longer the case.
Now, the Barbagia is a center of Sardinian culture, gastronomy, and outdoor activity. Hikers come for the trails and untouched landscapes of the Supramonte mountains, while wine enthusiasts have their choice of good producers of the local Cannonau wine around Mamoiada and Oliena.
For cheeses, salumi, and just about every other local delicacy, each town has a specialty. The mysterious carnival festivities in Mamoiada, Ottana, and Orotelli are another incredible experience.
Another curiosity about Sardinia’s Barbagia region is that it’s a blue zone; a geographic area whose inhabitants are known for remarkable longevity and lack of age-related illnesses. So, while the area may not have much in the way of historical architecture, it’s full of real living monuments!
Best places to visit in the Barbagia
1. Baunei
Baunei is a tiny town at the start of the Supramonte mountains that practically hangs off of a cliff. Driving to town from the south, a ridge suddenly rises and then you’re able to make out a cluster of buildings almost at its top. It’s a very cool sight.
The main reason to visit Baunei is for easy access to the hiking trails that lead down the cliffside to Cala Mariolu and Cala Goloritzé, which are otherwise only accessible by boat.
2. Oliena
A little town of about 7,000 at the start of the Barbagia region, Oliena is now host to a burgeoning corner of the Sardinian wine industry.
The local Cannonau red wine produced here is some of the best in Sardinia and you have a number of small, artisan producers who offer tours and tastings. The views of the granite massifs that surround the town are also spectacular.
3. Mamoiada
Mamoiada, in the heart of the Barbagia, is famous for its carnival celebration where residents don mysterious masks (known as Mamuthones) and outfits adorned with massive brass bells and proceed down the city’s streets in a striking procession.
The origins of the masks and the curious procession during which they are worn, is unknown. Viewing the procession is one of the most fascinating experiences one can have in Sardinia. If you’re visiting outside of February (which most people are), the town is another center of Cannonau wine production and the vineyards are lovely.
4. Tiscali ruins
The archeological site of Tiscali’s Nuragic origins are still a mystery to researchers. And, while it is not the best preserved site of ruins in Sardinia, it’s one of the island’s most iconic. Its natural setting is also fantastic. Deep in the mountains, the site of this ancient town is reachable by a hiking trail a few kms long.
The site sits practically inside a cave and is thought to have been inhabited beginning almost 3,000 years ago.
5. Sa Gorropu canyon
Sa Gorropu is a deep canyon, one of the deepest in Europe, that is reachable by a short, but steep hiking trail. The most striking aspect of it is a section where the canyon suddenly narrows into a ravine, surrounded by high granite walls, that is barely a few meters wide.
As you go deeper into it, huge boulders block the path and are a favorite for rock climbers and bouldering enthusiasts. It’s all very well marked and there is a cafe near the parking lot by the entrance where you can buy [overpriced] water and snacks.
6. Hiking in the Supramonte mountains
The Barbagia region is made of the Supramonte mountain range whose dense forests, craggy peaks, and limestone ravines are a haven for wildlife, hikers, and rock climbers. The highest peak is Mount Corrasi at 1,463 meters. The best hiking is around the town of Oliena.
5-day and 10-day Sardinia itineraries
The following itineraries are all road trips. Getting around Sardinia absolutely requires a car and there is no way to do a visit to multiple locations and many beaches without one.
The itineraries allow you to stay in 2-3 nights in two locations and do drives from each, or pack up each night and stay directly in each now location.
These itineraries cover coastal Sardinia, but do not touch on gorgeous areas in the interior like the mountainous Barbagia region.
The Barbagia and interior are well-worth exploring, but the main draw in Sardinia is the beaches, so for a first-time visit that’s what you should focus on.
For an in-depth one week sample itinerary, check out my 7-day itinerary for exploring South Sardinia.
5-day north Sardinia itinerary - Arrive to Alghero and depart from Olbia
Day 1 - Alghero
Day 2 - Stintino and Castelsardo
Day 3 - Santa Teresa di Gallura
Day 4 - La Maddalena
Day 5 - Costa Smeralda: Porto Cervo & Porto Rotondo
5-day northwest Sardinia itinerary - Arrive and depart from Alghero
Day 1 - Alghero
Day 2 - Mugoni beach, Capo Caccia promontory, and Grotta di Nettuno
Day 3 - Stintino beach
Day 4 - Bosa
Day 5 - Sinis Peninsula
5-day northeast Sardinia itinerary - Arrive and depart from Olbia
Day 1 - Santa Teresa di Gallura beaches
Day 2 - La Maddalena archipelago
Day 3 - Costa Smeralda beaches
Day 4 - San Teodoro and Budoni
Day 5 - Boat trip in the Gulf of Orosei from Cala Gonone
5-day east Sardinia itinerary - Arrive to Olbia and depart from Cagliari
Day 1 - Costa Smeralda
Day 2 - San Teodoro & Budoni
Day 3 - Boat trip in the Gulf of Orosei from Cala Gonone
Day 4 - Cala Gonone to Costa Rei
Day 5 - Costa Rei and Villasimius
5-day south Sardinia itinerary - Arrive and depart from Cagliari
Day 1 - Cagliari
Day 2 - Portixeddu, Buggeru, and Masua
Day 3 - Carloforte
Day 4 - Boat trip around Porto Zafferano and Teulada beaches
Day 5 - Chia and Tuerredda beach
6-day south Sardinia itinerary - Arrive to Cagliari and depart from Cagliari
Day 1 - Discover Cagliari
Day 2 - Explore the Sinis Peninsula
Day 3 - Slow Food culture in Bosa
Day 4 - Costa Verde & Cabras
Day 5 - Idyllic Carloforte
Day 6 - Costa del Sud and Chia
10-day Sardinia itinerary - Arrive to Alghero and depart from Cagliari
Day 1 - See Catalan architecture in elegant Alghero
Day 2 - Swim at iconic Stintino beach (stay in Alghero)
Day 3 - Visit Castelsardo & Santa Teresa di Gallura (stay in Santa Teresa)
Day 4 - Explore stunning La Maddalena archipelago (stay in Santa Teresa)
Day 5 - Hit the beaches of the Costa Smeralda (stay in Santa Teresa)
Day 6 - Boat trip in the Gulf of Orosei (stay in Orosei)
Day 7 - Relax on the wide beaches of Costa Rei and Villasimius (stay in Villasimius)
Day 8 - Beach hop in Costa Rei and Villasimius (stay in Villasimius)
Day 9 - Experience cosmopolitan Sardinia on the island’s capital of Cagliari
Day 10 - Lounge at Chia and Tuerredda beach (stay in Cagliari)
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