A Road Trip through Sicily - 10 Day Itinerary
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Sicily, located smack dab in the center of the Mediterranean Sea, has been fought over and ruled by great empires for Millennia, making it a cultural, linguistic, and gastronomic melting pot.
Here, you’ll find that we have a unique culture, a varied cuisine that incorporates ingredients from many different parts of the world, and a local dialect that embraces the languages of the various civilizations that have conquered this land.
In short, a visit to Sicily is a chance to travel through thousands of years of history, art, and culture in just one trip and on only one island. And in a 10-day visit, you’ll be able to cover the island from coast to coast, discovering all of its essential wonders.
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Plan your itinerary with local help
This itinerary is a great introduction to Sicily and covers many of the island’s absolute highlights (along with a few hidden gems), but no single itinerary is perfect for everyone.
If you could use some help coming up with the ideal plan for your visit, consider scheduling a Sicily travel consultation with our Palermo-based Local Expert, Gaetano.
These are one-hour Zoom calls where you’ll get to chat with Gaetano about the trip you’re planning and he’ll share his tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.
Things to know when planning your trip
How long to spend
For first-time visitors trying to see the “highlights” of Sicily, you need at least 10 days here, which is what I’ve proposed for this itinerary. With a week and a half, you’ll have enough time to cover the whole island, albeit sticking mainly to the coast and the cities and sights that dot it or sit just inland.
You can of course plan a lovely visit here with less time, but in that case you’d need to pick a specific area (typically either the east or the west) and stick to that part of Sicily, leaving the other side of the island for a second trip.
Keep in mind that Sicily is the biggest island in the Mediterranean, so distances here are significant, and being mountainous, travel times can often be longer than you would expect. Traveling around the whole island takes pretty careful planning, and you will often want to break up the journeys between your principal destinations with stops at cities/towns, historical sights, or natural areas that lie along the route.
If you take my advice and allocate at least 10 days for your visit, here’s how I would typically suggest dividing your time: set aside 4 days for western Sicily, during which you can visit Palermo, the seaside town of Cefalù, the Madonie mountains, the fortified hilltop town of Erice, and the lovely Marsala salt pans.
Then head southeast along the coast to Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples, before continuing east to the Val di Noto for a day or two hopping between the beautiful Baroque cities of Modica, Noto, Ragusa, and Scicli.
You’d then finishing up your trip with 3 or 4 days on the east coast, splitting your time between Syracuse and the medieval gem that is Ortigia, Mount Etna, Taormina, and Catania.
When to visit
I think Sicily is a true year-round destination due to its pleasantly temperate climate and the diversity of sights/attractions that it offers, but having said that, there are some important considerations when choosing the right time for your visit.
Summer is great if you want to hit the beach, but it can get stiflingly hot, especially away from the coast, and the midday sun is intense and strong, making sightseeing an urban exploring pretty unpleasant. This is also the busiest time of year, so expect there to be crowds just about everywhere you go, and for prices to be at their highest.
If you want to come in summer, I’d suggest June rather than July or August, as the crowds won’t yet be at their peaks and the temperatures will be more moderate.
Fall is probably my favorite time of year to travel in Sicily as the days are still pleasantly warm (but not overwhelmingly so like in summer), the sea temperature is at its nicest, you have pretty long daylight hours, and the crowds and prices begin to decrease from their summer highs.
There are also some interesting cultural events during the autumn, like the Taormina Film Festival, the Greek Theater Festival in Syracuse, and the “sagre”, which are festivals held all over the island to celebrate the fall harvest.
Winter is the least attractive time to visit Sicily, but even so, it’s not a bad choice, especially if you’re after local atmosphere and low prices. You’re unlikely to see other tourists here during the winter months, which is very refreshing, and while this is the rainiest time of year, it certainly doesn’t rain every day, and temperatures rarely drop below 50°F.
Strictly touristic towns and beach areas will be closed down for the season, but as long as you stick to cities and towns with significant year-round populations, there will still be plenty of things going on.
Spring, especially the later part of the season, has many of the same positives as the fall: warm but not hot weather, lighter crowds and lower prices, the start of the beach season (although the water will be cold), and an explosion of flowers and life, making it the ideal time to explore the mountains and natural areas. Late April or any time in May would be my recommendation.
Transportation and how to get around
To be frank, Sicily in general does not have good public transport. Our train network has always been woefully inadequate and trains are old, slow, and often late. Many cities aren’t even connected by train, and what routes we do have are basically limited to the northern coast between Messina and Palermo and the eastern coast between Messina and Siracusa.
Outside of destinations along those routes, I wouldn’t even bother looking for a train, and even when one is an option, you should be aware that they are often late and they are always very, very slow.
Trains aside, Sicily does have a relatively decent bus network, with far more comprehensive coverage and much more frequent service. Our main cities, touristic towns, and popular sights are all well connected to one another by bus, and the towns within the vicinity of a large metropolitan area will also often have good connections.
A potential challenge of traveling by bus, however, is that the system here is made up of many different companies who are the sole operators on either particular routes or for regions of Sicily. This means that you can’t just go to a company’s website and plan out all your trips, as no one company covers the whole island. Sais, Interbus, and AST are three of the bigger operators, but there are lots more.
Due to the limitations of the public transit network here, I basically always recommend that anyone planning a trip covering large parts of the island should rent a car. Having a car will give you far more flexibility in terms of where you go and it will free you up from the limited timetables that the trains and buses offer. Moreover, very few of Sicily’s splendid natural areas are reachable by public transit, so if you want to head out from the cities, a car is your only option.
To check rental car prices and make a reservation, I recommend using DiscoverCars. It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
Itinerary overview
Days 1 and 2: For this particular itinerary, your journey starts in Palermo, Sicily’s capital and a metropolis teeming with life. From there, you’ll explore the Madonie Mountains and the medieval village of Castelbuono, and the coastal town of Cefalù.
Days 3 and 4: Heading west, you’ll be enchanted by the postcard-pretty village of Scopello, the wild Zingaro nature reserve, and the fairytale town of Erice. From there, we’ll shoot over to Marsala to see the salt pans and to tour the fascinating little town.
You’ll also make a visit to the tiny island of Mothia, dating back to the Punic times, then head to Selinunte to discover its magnificent temples by the sea. Next up is Agrigento, with a quick stop in the thermal town of Sciaccia along the way.
Day 5: From Agrigento, you’ll visit the Valley of the Temples, one of Sicily great archaeological sites and the best-preserved Greek temples outside Greece.
In that same day, you can head over to the iconic Scala dei Turchi, then discover the ride-topping city of Agrigento in the evening.
Day 6: From here, you’ll be making your way east, but should first explore Sicily’s southern coast a bit, by visiting the Greek city of Eraclea Minoa and Sicily’s wildest beach in the Torre Salsa nature reserve.
First up in eastern Sicily are Ragusa, Modica, and the Donnafugata castle. This is where you’ll discover the beautiful Baroque cities on the Hyblean plateau.
Days 7 and 8: Next, make a quick visit to the impressive gorge of Cava d’Ispica, and then head on to the fishing village of Marzamemi and the Vendicari nature reserve.
From there, Syracuse and the island of Ortigia await, where you’ll spend an entire day uncovering these Greek and Baroque gems.
Days 9 and 10: Finally, what better way to round out your adventure than with the trio of Etna, Taormina, and Catania? You’ll first climb Etna, Europe’s most active volcano, and will then spend the evening in the charming town of Taormina, where you can experience the true Dolce Vita.
And on your final day in Sicily, tour Catania, also known as the Black City for its distinctive black buildings, built from volcanic stone.
Which towns to stay in during the trip
Considering that we’re covering almost the entire island with this itinerary, I want to be clear that you cannot stay in only one or two bases if you want to see and do everything I’ve planned out below. Sicily is big and its star attractions are fairly dispersed, so my plan for you here is squarely road trip territory, meaning that you’re going to have to stay somewhere new every night or two.
I know that’s a lot of packing and unpacking, but there’s just no alternative, especially if you don’t want to be making multiple 2+-hour drives every day.
Now, which particular town you choose to stay in within a given area should ultimately be determined by your preferences - do you want to be in the countryside, do you like staying in the city, are you okay driving a bit extra, etc. -, but you will definitely be better off if you stay in or around the places I’ve mentioned below on each night.
Here’s what I’d recommend:
Nights 1 & 2 - Palermo
Bastione Spasimo Boutique Hotel - You can usually find a room for €170 per night
Porta di Castro Boutique Hotel - A double room costs about €180
Night 3 - Erice (or Trapani, if you’d rather be in a bigger town)
Il Carmine Dimora Storica - a former monastery right by the town walls with very pleasant rooms. $100 USD
Residence Erice Pietre Antiche - a good choice if you prefer private apartments to hotels. $100 USD.
Nights 4 & 5 - Agrigento
Terrazze di Montelusa - hosted in an old palace with original furniture. It also has lovely terraces with nice views. $100-$150 per night.
Locanda degli Scrittori - a lovely choice if you prefer quieter accommodation. Rooms are hosued in a modern country house surrounded by a lush garden. $100-$150 per night.
Night 6 - Ragusa
L’Orto Sul Tetto - near the church of Saint Giorgio. On the top floor, you can enjoy a beautiful patio between vines and lemon trees. A double room costs about €100.
Locanda Don Serafino - set in a restored 19th-century palace with a modern spin. It has an on-site two-star Michelin restaurant. A room for two is about €180.
Nights 7 and 8 - Syracuse/Ortigia (stay in Ortigia - it’s much nicer)
Alla Giudecca - a restored 15th-century building located right above an ancient Jewish ritual bath that you can visit. About €130.
Caportigia Boutique Hotel - actually in Syracuse and not Ortigia, this is a good option if you have a car and want to be able to park nearby. €150 per night.
Grand Hotel Ortigia - an Ortigia institution since 1890. Old world style prevails with inlaid wood, plush furniture, and grand design. From €250+ per night.
Night 9 - Taormina
Villa Mabel - a pleasant hotel housed in an Art Nouveau building (rooms from $80).
Taodomus Hotel - chic but casual and rooms cost around $250 per night.
Hotel Villa Ducale - boutique, intimate, and offering many of the benefits of some of the more famous luxury properties, it does so at more reasonable rates ($350).
Night 10 - Catania
Liberty Hotel - delightfully old world with a very Art Nouveau style. Plush furniture, chandeliers, colorful bedding, and all that. Rooms from around €150 per night.
Palace Catania - a recently renovated larger hotel in a historic palazzo right on Via Etnea. Rooms are spacious, amenities are very good, and the rooftop has lovely views of Etna. Rates from €200.
Day 1 – Palermo
Sicily’s capital city is a lively metropolis of 700,000 inhabitants and it’s a place of stark contrasts. With just a day here, you’ll explore the center, discovering its artistic beauties and bustling daily life, then drive to Mount Pellegrino, which offers a great view over the city. End your day relaxing at the charming seaside resort of Mondello.
Morning - a walk through the historic center of Palermo
Start your day by exploring Palermo’s historic center and its Arab-Norman heritage. A great plan is to stroll along Via Vittorio Emanuele, an old street also called Càssaro. Starting from the intersection with Via Roma, you’ll have a 1-mile stretch of road this is filled with fantastic sights.
Your first stop is at the Piazza della Vergogna (Square of Shame) which is famous for its Baroque Pretoria fountain adorned by nude and semi-nude statues.
In the nearby Piazza Bellini, discover the churches of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (or La Martorana), San Cataldo, and Santa Caterina, each of which offers a very different experience from the others: San Cataldo is an austere Arab-Norman church with impressive red domes; La Martorana has opulent Baroque interiors; Santa Caterina boasts a pleasant cloister garden, and it’s here that you can try the best cannolo of your life - prepared by the nuns! Expect to spend around an hour to see all 3 churches.
Continue your walk down Via Vittorio Emanuele and stop at the Baroque Piazza Vigliena, also known as Quattro Canti because it is the spot where all four ancient quarters of the city center intersect. From there, make your way to the imposing Cathedral of Palermo. You can climb up up to the roof, which affords an excellent view of the city center.
Afterward, visit the Palazzo dei Normanni, at the very end of Vittorio Emanuele street. Built as a royal palace under the Norman rule of Sicily, it now hosts the Sicilian Parliament and it offers visitors the chance to marvel at its Palatine Chapel, covered in golden mosaics. Visits typically take about an hour.
By this point, it should be lunchtime, so stop in at Vuccira Market, about 15 minutes from the palace. This is one of the best places in the city to sample Palermo’s street food, especially sfincione (a spongy bread topped with tomatoes, onions, anchovies, and oregano), pane e panelle (chickpea fritters held in a sesame-seed bun), and pani ca meusa (a spleen sandwich much loved by locals).
Afternoon - Botanical Gardens, Kalsa, Mount Pellegrino, Mondello
After lunch, take a relaxing break at the Botanical Gardens, just 15 minutes away from the market. Designed in the late 1700’s by Léon Dufourny, the gardens now hold over 12,000 species of plants.
To reach the botanical garden, you’ll cross the historic Kalsa neighborhood, which is the heart of Palermo’s nightlife, and is filled with street art. It’s a very popular neighborhood for both locals and visitors nowadays. On your way to the gardens you’ll also stumble upon a fascinating unfinished 16th-century church called Santa Maria dello Spasimo.
After touring the gardens, it’s time to head upwards, to catch some fantastic city views. You can either take a car out to Mount Pellegrino, or you can walk the 7-kilometer pilgrim’s path (called Acchianata) up to the sanctuary of Santa Rosalia, the city’s patron saint. Both spots offer excellent vistas over the city.
Finally, there’s no better way spend the late afternoon than with a visit to Mondello, a charming seaside resort just 30 minutes away from the city. Here, you can enjoy an end-of-day dip into the turquoise sea that laps at the long crescent-shaped beach with its soft white sand.
The town is full of restaurants, so you can stop here for dinner before returning to Palermo. Badalamenti Cucina e Bottega is a great choice.
Evening
Once you’ve made your way back to Palermo, if you’re still feeling energetic and want to experience an evening out, head to Piazza Olivella, which is full of bars with live music. Alternatively, return to Kalsa, which is always busy in the evenings.
Overnight in Palermo
Day 2 – Castelbuono, the Madonie Mountains, and Cefalù
Set off on a full-day excursion to Castelbuono, a medieval village nestled in the Madonie Park. Try the renowned manna produced here and discover the town’s castle. Then spend your afternoon in Cefalù, a medieval seaside village with a lovely beach and majestic Norman Cathedral.
Castelbuono, in the Madonie mountains
Morning - Castelbuono & the Madonie mountains
Hop in the car this morning and set off on a quick 20-minute drive to Castelbuono. Going up towards the town, 423 meters above sea level, you will pass through the woods of the Madonie Natural Park, with the village nestled in the forest and mountains.
Its origins date back to Count Francesco I of Ventimiglia, who built a castle on the hill in the 1300s. Fittingly, the name “Castelbuono” means “good castle”.
Discover its Arab-Norman and Swabian features and a Palatine Chapel decorated by the Baroque artist Giacomo Serpotta. While strolling around its narrow streets, stop at the cathedral and at the pastry shop Fiasconaro, right in front of the church. Here, you can taste some local products made with manna, a tree sap extracted from local ashes.
After touring the town, arrange a visit to a manna farm in the woods nearby to meet the producers of this fantastic “white gold” (as manna is called) and see how it’s harvested - by making incisions in the trees’ trunks (harvest season is from July to September).
You can contact Consorzio Manna Madonita to organize a tour, during which you‘ll have the opportunity to taste the manna immediately after it’s been harvested, which is pretty special. This wonderful product is used in natural medicine, cosmetics, and pastry!
Before continuing on, enjoy lunch in the historic center of Castelbuono. Sit at Hostaria Cycas and taste some Madonie delicacies, like carne murata - meat and potatoes baked in a covered pot.
Afternoon - Cefalù
After lunch, drive to Cefalù, 30 minutes away. This gorgeous coastal town sits between the sea and a huge towering stone massif, and offers a long sandy beach that’s perfect for lounging on for a few hours. So hit the beach first and whenever you’re ready to explore, head into town.
Start your city tour by discovering the fantastic cathedral, a UNESCO-listed Arab-Norman jewel dating back to 1131. Make sure to head inside, as the interior is covered in mosaics. Continue on, strolling through the narrow lanes until you reach the Lavatoio, a medieval washhouse built over a small stream.
After, stop in at the Museo Madralisca to admire the Portrait of an Unknown Man by Antonello da Messina.
As the day winds down and the temperatures start to cool off, head to La Rocca, the giant massif looming over the town, and hike up it. The round trip is about 3.5 kilometers and while it’s steep, it isn’t overly difficult.
On your way up, you’ll see the remains of the Temple of Diana (dating back to Sicanian-Greek times) and a Norman castle at the very top.
Evening - back to Palermo
Still in Cefalù, end the day in the Porto Vecchio (old harbor), the perfect spot to look out over the town as the sun sets behind La Rocca.
For dinner, you must try the local pasta a taianu, a pasta dish served in an earthenware pot and seasoned with fried aubergines, meat, pine nuts, pecorino cheese, and raisins. Every trattoria in town serves it, but the best spot is Tinchitè.
After dinner, return to Palermo.
Overnight in Palermo
Connect with Gaetano in Palermo for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!
Day 3 – Scopello, Zingaro nature reserve, and Erice
Leave Palermo behind and head on to seaside Scopello for a quick visit. Then continue on to the Zingaro nature reserve, above the Gulf of Castellammare. This is one of the loveliest spots in Sicily and it has great beaches and hiking trails to spend a day enjoying.
In the afternoon, move on to Erice, a perfectly preserved medieval village overlooking the whole western coast of Sicily.
A beach in the Zingaro Nature Preserve
Morning - Scopello & Zingaro Nature Reserve
Leave Palermo in the direction of Scopello, driving along the SS187 road while enjoying the view over the Gulf of Castellammare. You’ll reach Scopello after about an hour of driving, and here you’ll be able to visit a fascinating seaside village hosting an old tuna fishery and an open-air museum.
Scopello is a lovely town with nice views over the faraglioni - rocks emerging from the sea -, but there isn’t much to actually do here, so expect to stay for no more than an hour.
After visiting the town, head on to the Zingaro nature reserve, just a 5-minute drive away. This is a wonderful protected area that encompasses both mountains and sea and has some fantastic hiking, so expect to spend the rest of your morning and a good chunk of the afternoon in the reserve.
For a hike, I recommend the breathtaking 13.5 kilometer trail that runs between Scopello and San Vito Lo Capo. Expect for the full hike to take 4-6 hours, during which time you’ll be walking along a fairly flat gravel path.
Along the way, you can stop to swim at various little enchanting coves. Of those, the following are not to be missed: Cala dell’Uzzo, Cala Marinella, and Cala Capreria.
If you’ve brought your own lunch today, you can enjoy a picnic inside the reserve, eating in one of your favorite coves or at one of the two picnic areas (at Cala Tonnarella dell'Uzzo and Cala Capreria), which are equipped with benches and tables in the shade of a local cannucciato, a kind of a canopy made of woven reeds.
Afternoon - Erice
Take your time relaxing in the shade of the trees after lunch, then hop back in the car and continue on to Erice, about 50 minutes away. This fairytale medieval village is wonderfully preserved atop Monte San Giuliano and offers breathtaking views over Trapani and the coast.
A couple of hours here will allow you to pretty fully explore its cobbled alleyways, old defensive walls, and Norman castle carved into the rock and built on a former Temple of Venus. For a great panoramic view, head to the Spanish Quarter, an unfinished fort built on a rocky spur.
And be sure not to miss the Real Duomo, a church dating back to the 14th century, and the nearby Torre di Federico (you can also climb it).
Whenever you feel like a snack, refuel by stopping at Pasticceria Grammatico, a pastry shop renowned for its almond pastries. Taste them accompanied by a local liqueur called Monte Erice.
Evening - Erice
At sunset, head to the Giardino del Balio, just beyond the castle, to watch the sun dip into the sea while looking out over the Tyrrhenian coast above San Vito lo Capo, the salt pans near Trapani, and the Egadi Islands.
For dinner grab a table at Archi di San Carlo restaurant - one of the best in the area!
Overnight in Erice
Day 4 – Marsala Saltpans, Mothia, Selinunte, and Sciacca
Descend from hilltop Erice and drive along the Salt Road to the Marsala salt pans where you can see sea salt being processed in the Stagnone Lagoon. Take a boat over to the island of Mothia, once a Punic settlement, and then visit the historic Florio winery in Marsala.
After a quick stop in Selinunte (and maybe Sciacca), end your day in Agrigento.
Marsala
Morning - Salt pans, Mothia, and Marsala
Just a little under an hour away from Erice are the Marsala salt pans, part of the so-called “Salt Road”, a stretch of coast along the Stagnone lagoon that is dotted with windmills and saltwater pools. On sunny days, the pools glint in the sun and change color from yellow to rosy shades of pink.
There are walking and cycling paths within the lagoon and you can visit some of the processing facilities to learn about the history and modern day salt production here. Most visitors should expect to spend around an hour, although that could be longer depending on how far you want to walk/cycle on the path.
Next, catch a ferry over to the nearby island of Mothia, the nearest among the Stagnone islands and a former Punic settlement dating back to the 8th century. The island still hosts the ruins of a city destroyed by Syracuse in 397 BC, has a small but interesting museum, and a footpath that fully encircles it. Your visit will probably take about 2 hours.
Now it’s time to visit the town of Marsala, which although often largely overlooked by visitors, is actually quite pleasant and has a lovely Baroque center. Start off from Porta Garibaldi, and admire Renaissance and Baroque palaces, old monasteries, and ornate balconies. Stop at Piazza Loggia, visit the Duomo, then head to the Baglio Anselmi Archaeological Museum, which has an authentic Phoenician ship on display.
End your tour by stopping in at the historic Florio winery to taste the local wine which is fortified with a dose of brandy. You can join a wine-tasting experience by pairing it with some traditional dishes such as busiate alla trapanese, pasta c’anciova (pasta with sardines), or a delicious couscous.
Afternoon - Selinunte & Sciacca
After delighting your palate on local wine and specialties, it’s time to delight your eyes: head to Selinunte to discover the magnificent seaside Greek temples at the largest archaeological park in Europe, extending 270 hectares over three hills. About an hour from Marsale, it includes temples, an acropolis, and a necropolis. Being such an extensive site, a complete visit will take around 3 hours.
If you prefer a more leisurely stop or if history and archaeology aren’t of particular interest to you, you could instead pay a visit to Sciacca, a thermal resort town since the 5th century. It’s just a half hour from Selinunte.
Strolling along the town’s streets, you’ll discover Renaissance palaces, old churches, an imposing cathedral, and an amazing view over the coast from Piazza Scandaliato. Treat yourself to some shopping here, as Selinunte is known for its handmade pottery and coral jewelry.
Evening - Agrigento
Hop back in the car and continue on for another hour to Agrigento, your final stop for the day. For a spectacular dinner with incredible views over the illuminated temples of the nearby Valley of the Temples, book an outdoor table at Re di Girgenti.
Overnight in Agrigento
Day 5: Valley of the Temples, Scala dei Turchi, and Agrigento
In the morning, visit the immortal Valley of the Temples, then move on to Realmonte to enjoy the incredible landscape of the Scala dei Turchi cliff and one of Sicily’s prettiest beaches. Later in the afternoon, explore Agrigento’s city center.
Valley of the Temples
Morning - Valley of the Temples
The Valley of the Temples, once the heart of the Greek Akragas, is now a UNESCO-listed archeological site and it holds the best-preserved Greek temples outside of Greece. It sits right below Agrigento, so is easily accessible from the city, and being one of the most famous sites in Sicily, you should come early in the morning to avoid the crowds and the heat.
Visits here typically take about 4 hours as the site is enormous and you’ll walk about 4 or 5 kilometers if you want to see everything. Start your tour from the eastern entrance (Porta Giunone), from where the path is downhill.
Discover the Hera Temple and the Temple of Concordia, then continue west along the path running among olive trees and archeological treasures such as the ruins of the temple of Hercules and Zeus and the Demeter and Kore sanctuary.
At the end of the path, enter the Giardino della Kolymbetra, a valley dug as a pool to ensure water supply to the city in antiquity, but which is now a lush garden hosting 300 species of plants. Enjoy a picnic here, then return to the parking lot (by retracing your steps or hopping on a small electric shuttle).
Afternoon - Realmonte, Scala dei Turchi, Agrigento
When the heat of the midday Sicilian sun hits hard, there’s nothing better than a dip in the sea to cool off. So hop in your car and drive to Realmonte, where you can swim in turquoise waters at the foot of the dramatic Scala dei Turchi cliff, just 15 km from Agrigento. Enjoy a panoramic view from the road and then continue on foot for about 10 minutes until you reach the beach.
Whenever you’ve had enough beach time, return to Agrigento to explore the city center. Agrigento is entirely overshadowed by the the Valley of The Temples, and most visitors don’t spend enough time exploring the city itself. That’s a shame because it’s actually quite pleasant and has a nice historic core.
Stroll along the central Via Atenea, lined by bars, shops, and restaurants, then get lost among the secondary alleys that branch off from it, taking you to noble palaces, small churches, and the impressive 11th-century cathedral with its stunning painted wooden ceiling.
If you're in the mood for a snack, head to the Monastero di Santo Spirito, a Cistercian convent, dating back to the 13th century. It hosts stucco artworks by Giacomo Serpotta and the nuns are formidable pastry chefs who prepare a delicious sweet couscous.
Evening - San Leone
At sunset, drive out to San Leone, a seaside resort 6 km from Agrigento. Here, you can join the locals for an end of day tradition: sipping an aperitif on the beach. You can also get some tasty bites here at any of the bars. Just order an “aperitivo rinforzato”, which is a drink accompanied by a bunch of appetizers such as cheeses, bread, olives, and cured meats.
An affordable dinner option which often has live music is Oceanomare.
Overnight in Agrigento
Day 6: Torre Salsa nature reserve, Donnafugata Castle, Modica, Ragusa
Spend your morning in the Torre Salsa nature reserve and visit the ancient city of Eraclea Minoa and the Roman Villa di Durrueli.
Then head east to the Hyblean plateau to visit the late-Baroque cities of Ragusa Ibla and Modica, along with the curious Donnafugata Castle.
Modica at dusk
Morning - Torre Salsa Nature Reserve, Eraclea Minoa, & Villa Romana di Durrueli
Ultimately today, you’ll be heading to eastern Sicily, but it would be criminal to leave this part of the island without first exploring a bit of Agrigento’s surroundings. At the Torre Salsa nature reserve, just 30 km west of Agrigento, you can enjoy a couple of hours on Sicily’s wildest beach, offering dunes, wetlands, and white stone cliffs dropping straight into turquoise waters.
And while you’ve already seen a couple of great archaeological sites between Selinunte and the Valley of the Temples, I strongly recommend a visit to Eraclea Minoa, a legendary Greek city.
According to legend, it was founded by the Cretan King Minos, and it’s just 10 km west of the reserve. The archeological park sits on a rocky spur overlooking the sea and a golden beach backed by impressive cliffs. Expect to spend about 30 minutes here.
It’s now time to head east toward Modica, but first make a quick stop at the Villa Romana di Durrueli, a well-preserved Roman villa covered in fine mosaics. It dates back to the 1st century AD and the visits here are usually pretty quick.
Afternoon - Donnafugata Castle, Modica, Ragusa
The drive to Modica will take around 3 hours in total, and about 2.5 hours into it you should stop off at Donnafugata castle, which is right on the route. This is a 14th-century palace rebuilt in the 19th century, blending many architectural styles. Do not miss castle’s park, which houses a very neat labyrinth.
From there, head to Modica, a city on built on a steep gorge and split into two halves: Modica Alta and Modica Bassa. Start in Modica Bassa (the lower and newer part of town) and meander upwards to and through Modica Alta until you reach the Duomo of Saint Giorgio. You’ll have a splendid view from the church.
Take plenty of time to just wander around aimlessly enjoying the atmosphere, but be sure to stop in at some point to the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, a pastry shop offering local chocolate made the Aztec way, dating back to Spanish rule.
You’ll probably be in Modica for about an hour and a half, after which it’s time to head to Ragusa, where you’ll be spending the night. Here, spend the majority of the time exploring the old town, called Ibla, whose ancient lanes hide many treasures: Baroque palaces, old churches, tiny courtyards with unexpected wrought-iron balconies.
Stop at the imposing cathedral of San Giorgio, a Baroque masterpiece. Some scenes of the TV series Inspector Montalbano were shot here. In the same piazza, you’ll see the noble Palazzo Arezzo di Trefiletti, the charming Donnafugata theater, and a mid-1800 aristocrats’ club called Circolo di Conversazione. Expect to spend 2 hours meandering around Ibla.
Evening
Get dinner at the family-run trattoria Cucina e Vino. After, take an evening stroll along the steps that connect Ragusa Ibla and Ragusa Superiore (the modern city): you will enjoy stunning views over the old town all lit up with the yellowish glow of the street lamps.
Overnight in Ragusa
Day 7 – Cava d’Ispica, Marzamemi, Vendicari nature reserve,
Start the day with a visit to the Cava d’Ispica gorge, followed by the fishing village of Marzamemi. Then head to the pristine Vendicari nature reserve, where you can hike the trails, see migrating flamingoes, and swim in the crystal clear waters. Later on, continue to Siracusa, where you’ll spend the night.
Vendicari reserve
Morning - Cava d’Ispica & Marzamemi
After breakfast and perhaps one more leisurely stroll through Ragusa, set off for the impressive gorge of Cava d'Ispica, a prehistoric cave system inhabited since 2000 BC, and once used as Christian tombs and then medieval dwellings. A 13 km path runs along the gorge, but you can only walk a short stretch of it. The views are impressive nonetheless!
Next, make your way to Marzamemi, a fishing village about 35 km from Cava d’Ispica. Enjoy a gelato in the town’s beautiful piazza, flanked by former fishermen's houses, an old tuna fishery, two tiny churches, and a 17th-century noble palace.
The water is lovely here, so you can go for swim while in town, or wait until your next stop, the Vendicari Nature Reserve (20 minutes away). You should expect to spend the rest of the morning/afternoon in the reserve, and there are no restaurants or services inside it, so order a takeaway lunch in Marzamemi and plan for a picnic on the beach at Vendicari. Your best bet for grabbing lunch is Liccamuciula, right in the same piazza.
Afternoon - Vendicari Nature Reserve
Once in Vendicari, spend the afternoon enjoying the nature reserve, criss-crossed by three walking paths which will take you to ancient Greek ruins, a Swabian tower, a Byzantine church, and an old tuna fishery. The reserve covers 7 km of the coast, offering white sandy beaches and an emerald sea all throughout.
The most popular beaches are Marianeddi, Calamosche, and San Lorenzo, but there are plenty of other ones to choose from. You can also spot flamingos in the wetlands here.
Evening - Syracuse & Ortigia
Your final stop tonight is Syracuse, about 40 minutes away from Vendicari. Settle in to your accommodation and then enjoy an evening stroll through the tiny streets of Ortigia, the adjacent island. For dinner, I’d suggest La Putia delle cose buone.
Overnight in Siracusa/Ortigia
Day 8 – Siracusa and Ortigia
The first stop on any visit to Siracusa is the incredible Neapolis Archaeological park, but there’s no doubt that lovely ancient Ortigia, with its Baroque Cathedral and Arethusa Spring, will be the star of the day. In the afternoon take a boat trip, either to see the Papyrus plants in the Cyane river, or along the coast to discover the nearby caves.
Ortigia
Morning - Siracusa & Ortigia
As you may have already discovered, there are really two Siracusas: the mainland, where you’ll find the Neapolis archaeological site, and the small island of Ortigia, full of Baroque palaces and churches. Today, you’ll explore both of them.
Start your day at the Neapolis, which has a Roman amphitheater, an ancient quarry named Latomia del Paradiso, the Eurialo castle, and the so-called Orecchio di Dionisio, an ear-shaped cave that amplifies even the tiniest noises. A complete tour takes about 90 minutes and it really is best to visit with a guide, as they’ll add so much history and background for you.
Absolutely do not skip the majestic Greek theatre dating back to the 5th century BC, which still hosts classical plays from May through early July. You can check the schedule and buy a ticket here (or on-site). About 500 meters from the archeological park is the Paolo Orsi Archeological Museum, which is also worth a visit.
From the museum, make your way to Ortigia, a 10-minute drive from the archeological site (while it’s an island, it’s connected to the mainland by two bridges).
Dive into Ortigia’s labyrinth, getting lost among its narrow streets lined by centuries-old palaces, Baroque churches, and two ancient temples: the Doric temple of Apollo and the former temple of Atena, now a stunning Baroque church that was built over it. On the same piazza, admire the Palazzo Arciverscovile and Palazzo Vermexio (now town hall).
Continue your stroll and reach the Fonte Aretusa (Aretusa Spring), linked to the legend of a nymph transformed into a spring by the goddess Diana to save her from an unwanted lover. From there, walk along the road encircling the island to the 13th-century Castello Maniace.
When you get hungry, I’d suggest grabbing lunch at Caseificio Borderi.
Afternoon - Boat ride on the Cyane River and Cala Rossa beach
For something quite different this afternoon, hop on a boat (there are many departing throughout the day) to enjoy an hour-long cruise on the Cyane river, where wild papyrus still grows. Instead, or in addition, you can also take boat trip along the coastline to discover the caves around the city. These coastal tours are a bit longer, around 2 hours, and there will be stops where you can jump in for a swim.
After the boat rides, finish your day relaxing on the little crescent beach of Cala Rossa, right under the city walls. You can also attend a performance at the puppet theatre, where they enact old French medieval poems, a rich Sicilian tradition well worth discovering.
Evening
At sunset, stop at the Lungomare Alfeo (western side of the island) to sip a drink while watching the sun setting on the Cyane river. For dinner, stop at Sicilia in tavola.
Overnight in Siracusa
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Day 9 – Mount Etna and Taormina
Today, the better part of your day will be spent exploring Mount Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe. After, stop in the town of Solicchiata to sample local wine grown in the volcanic soil. Then spend the evening in glorious Taormina.
Etna
Morning - Mount Etna
Get a very early start today as you’re going to be spending the better part of the day climbing Etna, Europe’s highest and most active volcano, and a UNESCO site since 2013. It (or she, as the volcano is definitively female for locals) offers a wide variety of landscapes: desert volcanic areas, lush forests, and caves, along with a host of biking and walking paths.
Just remember that scaling and walking the upper craters is only permitted if accompanied by a licensed local guide.
Here’s what I’d suggest: from Siracusa, drive two hours to the Piano Provenzana touristic area, standing 1,800 meters above sea level. Leave your car in the parking lot and hike along the path leading to the observatory overlooking Valle del Leono, at 2,900 meters.
The path is only 2.5 km each way, but it’s quite steep. If you don’t want to hike, you can also reach the summit by hopping in a 4x4 vehicle departing from Piano Provenzana. Those tours take about 90 minutes, stopping along the way to see secondary old craters.
After your climb up, explore some stunning caves created by ancient lava flows. The Grotta dei Lamponi (raspberry cave) is one of the longest. You can reach it by taking the well-marked Monte Nero path which runs across a pretty beech tree forest. The walk out and back takes about 4 hours. You can also hire a guide at Piano Provenzana to get there.
You should either pack a lunch today and eat while exploring, or you can sit down for a decent meal at Rifugio Ragabo, 10 minutes from Piano Provenzana.
Late afternoon - Taormina
Whenever you’ve finished exploring Etna, continue on to Taormina, about an hour away. On the way there, stop in the town of Solicchiata, which is full of wineries where you can sample the local wine grown in volcanic soil.
Once in Taormina, prepare to enjoy a bit of the Sicilian Dolce Vita (sweet life). Founded by the Greeks and perched on slopes high above the sea, Taormina has been a popular resort and beloved by the world’s rich and famous for centuries.
Stroll along the pedestrian Corso Umberto (1.5 km long) flanked by boutiques, artisan shops, the small church of Santa Caterina built on a former temple, medieval palaces such as the beautiful Palazzo Corvaja, and the medieval Duomo.
Stop at Piazza IX Aprile to enjoy a great view over the Ionian Sea, then reach the 3rd-century BC Greek theater. In summer, it still hosts concerts and performances (take a look at the schedule).
Evening - Castelmola & Taormina
At sunset, drive to the medieval village of Castelmola, just a few kilometers above Taormina. Grab a seat on a terrace and sip the local almond wine while looking over the sea and watching the sun set behind Mount Etna.
Back in Taormina, end your day attending a performance at the Greek theater, or strolling along tiny secondary streets and enjoying the bustling nightlife. Have dinner at Osteria Rosso DiVino.
Overnight in Taormina
Day 10 – Catania
End your trip with a full-day visit to Catania, the main city in eastern Sicily. Known as the Black City due to its distinctively dark lave-stone construction, Catania has quite a lot to offer.
Catania
Morning
On your final day in Sicily, it’s time to visit our second city: Catania. About an hour from Taormina, this is an exciting and busy city that is constantly reinventing itself. Lying under the volcano, it’s been destroyed several times over the centuries, and after the earthquake of 1693, it was razed to the ground, only to be rebuilt in Baroque style.
Walking through its Baroque center will take a couple of hours. Start from Piazza Duomo housing the Liotru fountain, a symbol of the city, together with the cathedral rebuilt over a former Norman church. Next to it is the church of Sant’Agata alla Badia, which you can climb up to enjoy great views over the city.
Continue along Via Etneaa to admire Palazzo Sangiuliano, Palazzo Università, and the intersection called Quattro Canti, lined by noble palaces. Then, head to Via Crociferi to discover a stunning sequence of Baroque churches and monasteries.
End your morning by visiting the Benedictine monastery, dating back to the 16th century. It was reconstructed in Baroque style with stunning ornate balconies adorned with grotesque masks. There are 90-minute guided tours of the building, covering frescoed rooms, a monumental staircase decorated with stucco artwork, two cloisters, and a garden built atop hardened lava.
For lunch, stop at the Piscaria, the bustling fish market full of tiny restaurants. The kiosk Scirocco offers delicious freshly fried fish.
Afternoon
After filling your belly, reach Palazzo Biscari, a noble palace still inhabited by the Prince’s heirs, which you can visit to tour the elegant roomsand majestic Rococo ballroom.
Dedicate the rest of the afternoon to discovering Roman Catania. Start from the Roman theater dating back to the 2nd century AD. Next to it is a smaller Odeon, used to host musical performances in antiquity. A short distance away is the so-called Terme della Rotonda, ruins of the Roman baths over which a Byzantine church was built. In Piazza Stesicoro, you can admire the ruins of a huge Roman Amphitheatre.
As the late afternoon sets in, end your day strolling around the pleasant Villa Bellini, the city’s park dedicated to the composer Vincenzo Bellini.
Evening
At sunset, book a table at the rooftop bar Ostello degli Elefanti, whose terrace overlooks the city center, with Mount Etna looming in the distance.
Have dinner at Piazza Scammacca, then set off for an evening on the town, joining Catania’s energetic nightlife in the streets around Teatro Massimo Bellini.
Overnight in Catania
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