How to Spend 4 Days in Rome - A Local’s Itinerary
Rome isn’t known as the Eternal City for nothing. Layers of civilization have built up here over millennia, each making its mark and leaving a distinct architectural and historical legacy. You could spend a lifetime in Rome and barely scratch the surface – so who, you might rightly ask, is qualified to come up with an itinerary that captures its essence?
Well, here are my credentials, which I hope you find satisfactory! I’ve been living in Rome for six years and visiting often for many years before that, having studied Roman history at Master’s level. I’ve also been writing about Roman travel and tourism for close to a decade, guiding professionally in Rome and its environs for around four years, and leading US tour groups several times a year, providing commentary, offering local insights, and taking care of logistics.
I expect I have been inside the Colosseum more than some of the gladiators who once fought there, and spent more time inside the Sistine Chapel than many cardinals when they come for the elections of the papal conclaves. So it’s safe to say I know the city quite well from both a local perspective and a touristic one.
And like many other locals, I recognize that Rome is changing, with parts of the perennially popular city center visibly creaking under the weight of overtourism. Visiting Rome is not as easy as it was even five years ago, and the sheer volume of visitors means that advanced planning is a key component of any successful trip.
I’ve also learned from experience that an enjoyable visit here means striking the right balance between doing the ‘big’ must-see sites - like the Colosseum, Vatican Museums, and Trevi Fountain - and visiting the lesser-known treasures just off the beaten path - like the Appian Way, the Aqueduct Park, and Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.
That’s why the 4-day itinerary I’m suggesting combines the best of both, sharing the most effective ways of visiting Rome’s main attractions while also recommending some hidden highlights, with fewer crowds, which I promise are the places that will leave the most lasting impression.
Let’s have a look, shall we?!
Table of Contents
A few useful things to know
How to get around the city
Rome’s city center is compact and easily walkable, and exploring the city on foot is often the quickest and most picturesque way of seeing the city. Unless specified otherwise in this itinerary, walking will typically be your best option for getting from A to B.
For longer distances, or where walking is unfeasible, Rome is serviced by ATAC – its comprehensive but much maligned public transport network, made up of buses, trains, trams, and three metro lines which together keep the city connected around the clock.
ATAC has made significant improvements in recent years. Most buses and trams, as well as all metro turnstiles, accept tap-to-go card payments (€1.50 per 90-minute fare). A new fleet of electric buses is in operation, and many bus stops feature digital displays that tell you how long you’ll have to wait for the next bus.
But Romans still profoundly mistrust their public transit network, which means more residents drive ever larger cars around a fundamentally ancient city layout, causing heavy congestion and frequent delays. Because of this, you’ll want to prioritize the metro or tram over buses wherever possible, since these steer clear of the traffic that clogs the streets.
If you’re planning on taking lots of public transport, consider investing in a 24, 48 or 72-hour travel pass.
Where to stay
Most first-time visitors will want to base themselves around the historic center – in the districts of Monti, the Centro Storico (between the Spanish Steps to the east and Piazza Navona to the west) or, if you don’t mind a bit of extra walking, Trastevere.
For ancient history buffs, I recommend Monti, a hip, hilly neighbourhood of ivy-covered palazzi which borders the Colosseum, Imperial Fora, and Trajan’s Markets on the Quirinal Hill. You’ll find excellent bars and eateries here, as well as easy access to the rest of Rome via the Metro B line.
Travelers who want to prioritize the Vatican should consider staying in Prati. It’s a well-heeled, bourgeois area, more modern than most of Rome’s other neighborhoods but pristine, well connected to the rest of Rome via the Metro A line and directly bordering the walls of the Vatican.
If being away from crowds (and other tourists) is important for you, try either leafy Aventino (an affluent residential neighborhood perched on one of Rome’s Seven Hills) or Garbatella, a working-class Roman district formed around lots inspired by the English Garden Movement, and an area still largely insulated from the effects of mass tourism.
I cover all these neighborhoods in greater detail in my article about where to stay in Rome. And for anyone who’s just looking for a quick hotel recommendation, here’s a map showing my favorite accommodations throughout the city.
Itinerary overview
Given the length of Rome’s history and the breadth of its cultural heritage, I’ve broken this four-day itinerary down thematically, so each day deals with either a particular period or area of interest. I’ve also made sure to find a good balance between exposed outdoor sites and indoor galleries and museums, so you can follow the itinerary whatever the weather.
Now, before we dive into the itinerary, there are three quick things to keep in mind: First, I have built a reasonable amount of flexibility into this plan so that you can mix and match components from each day. For instance, if you’re arriving on an early flight, and feeling the effects of jetlag, you can switch around days one and two, easing into Rome by exploring its central squares, churches, and eateries on day one and saving your strength for ancient Rome’s main ticketed sites on day two.
Second, for all ticketed attractions, I am linking to the official sites to ensure you don’t end up purchasing vouchers from third-party vendors that need to be exchanged for tickets on the day (meaning you waste time standing in line).
And finally, I’ll be recommending more than you can realistically squeeze into a four-day itinerary. The intention with that is not to overwhelm you, but rather to give you the option of switching out one activity for another depending on your interests, mood, and energy levels.
With all of that covered, here’s a quick summary of the itinerary (the detailed, step-by-step plan is further below):
Day 1
The first day dives straight into ancient Rome and the dawn of Roman history. It combines big ticketed sites like the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill in the morning with less crowded attractions like the Capitoline Museums, Nero’s Golden Palace, and the Ara Pacis (a first-century BC sacrificial altar dedicated by Rome’s first emperor, Augustus) in the afternoon and evening.
You’ll finish the day around Piazza Navona, in the heart of the historic center, where you can soak in the late-night atmosphere of Rome’s squares after dinner.
Day 2
On your second day, you’ll continue to explore the historic center, visiting household name attractions like the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, and Pantheon and lesser-known highlights like the Borghese Gallery, Bone Crypt, and Church of San Luigi dei Francesi.
I’ve been careful to organize this day so you avoid the most touristy spots during the late morning and afternoon surge, when crossing much of the street leading from the Trevi Fountain to the Pantheon feels like pushing your way through the crowd of a heavy metal concert. You’ll also be able to fit in some shopping on the Via Corso, a major street that cuts north to south through the center.
Day 3
Day three is dedicated to Christian Rome and the Vatican. Your morning starts with timed-entry access to the Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica followed by lunch nearby in the Borgo Pio district.
After lunch, you have a choice between visiting Rome’s three other major papal basilicas before making your way over to the medieval district of Trastevere, or heading directly to Trastevere to drink in its surroundings, duck into its churches and villas, and climb the Janiculum Hill for an unrivalled panoramic view over the Roman skyline.
Day 4
The final day acts as a sort of palate cleanser by showing you a side of Rome still untouched by mass tourism. It starts on the Via Appia Antica (Old Appian Way), an ancient stretch of highway lined with tombs, catacombs, and aristocratic residences from the imperial era to the modern day, and factors in time for a visit to the catacombs and the nearby Park of the Aqueducts.
After lunch in a local food or farmers’ market, visit ancient sites brought to life with virtual reality or duck into under-the-radar museums that even many Romans don’t know about. You’ll finish this day in the neighbourhood of Garbatella, where you’ll be dining among locals in arguably the most authentic foodie district in Rome.
Day 1: Ancient Rome - the City of the Caesars
Today’s itinerary centers on ancient Rome and its main sites. Start with a skip-the-line guided tour of the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, and a visit to the Mamertine Prison. Then sit down for lunch in the Jewish Ghetto before heading back to the Capitoline Museums or into Nero’s Golden Palace (the Domus Aurea).
In the evening, visit the Ara Pacis, a beautifully preserved first-century BC altar built by Rome’s first emperor, Augustus, and the emperor’s dynastic mausoleum. Finish with an authentic Roman dinner in the heart of the historic centre before enjoying a slow stroll back to the hotel.
Morning: Colosseum, Roman Forum, and the Palatine Hill
The Colosseum
For anyone familiar with Roman history (or Ridley Scott’s epic Gladiator), the Colosseum needs no introduction. It’s the most iconic monument from ancient Rome, if not from the ancient world, and an object of fascination for all ages for its gladiatorial combats and wild animal hunts. Yet as a site of extreme violence and mass death, it is also a very conflicting monument, whose macabre allure has endured for nearly two thousand years.
To reach the Colosseum, you’ll either arrive via the Metro B line (Colosseo station) or by walking along the Via dei Fori Imperiali – a broad open boulevard lined by the Roman Forum to the south and the fora of the emperors to the north. If you’re via the latter, make sure to stop at Trajan’s Column, a 2nd-century AD military monument that commemorates and richly depicts the emperor’s conquest of Dacia (modern-day Romania).
I would strongly suggest visiting the Colosseum on a tour. Without one, the amphitheatre is little more than a confusing mass of pockmarked masonry, albeit of considerable size and scale.
Many different tours are available, some easier to book onto than others (the prized Colosseum Underground and Colosseum Arena tours are notoriously difficult to secure). But to be honest, the classic Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill tours are the best value, and the Colosseum Arena Floor tour a bit of a sham (it’s a very partial 20th-century reconstruction).
Small-group Colosseum, Palatine Hill and Roman Forum tour – A 3-hour guided tour led by an expert licensed guide. Includes timed-entry tickets to the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill.
Semi-Private Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill tour – This tour is ideal for private groups, families, and those who want the personalized attention of a guide.
The Colosseum seen from Palatine Hill. Photo: Livioandronico2013, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Roman Forum & the Palatine Hill
After touring the lower level and first floor of the Colosseum and its museum (and having time to visit its gift shop), you’ll make your way over to the Roman Forum, ancient Rome’s principal public space, which served as a market, a meeting place, a temple precinct and a place of political and judicial activity.
You’ll then ascend the Palatine Hill, the cradle of Roman history (or rather legend), on which King Romulus founded his city. It was here where wealthy senators lived throughout the Roman Republic, and here where the emperors resided in their palaces (a word that comes from the name Palatine) during the Roman Empire.
The Roman Forum, centered on the Temple of Saturn. Photo: Kirk F, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Palatine Hill seen from the Colosseum. Photo: Karelj, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Mamertine Prison
Just a few minutes’ walk from the northern end of the forum is the Mamertine, Rome’s first prison, which was hewn into the Capitoline Hill as early as the 7th century BC. Many of Rome’s enemies met their end here, lowered through a small hole into its subterranean dungeon and left to starve.
Among those incarcerated here were foreign kings and warlords like Jugurtha and Vercingetorix but also early Christian martyrs, like Saints Peter and Paul. This is one of those sites that few tourists ever visit, but all who do agree it’s well worth the effort.
Although you can usually buy tickets on the day (€10), you’re best off reserving a timed slot through the official website. You’ll only need 30–45 minutes maximum for your visit, for which an audioguide is downloadable via the Omnia Vatican Rome app.
The entrance to the Mamertine Prison. Photo: Tobiasvanderwal, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Afternoon: Lunch in the Jewish Ghetto and a visit to the Capitoline Museums or Domus Aurea
Lunch in the Jewish Ghetto
Just a 15-minute walk from the Mamertine Prison is Rome’s Jewish Ghetto, a once poverty-stricken district hemmed in on the flood-prone banks of the River Tiber. It has since undergone a resurgence to become one of the city’s most chic and affluent districts, and is a great place to get lunch as it’s home to the city’s famous cucina ebraica-romana (Roman-Jewish cuisine).
For a sit-down lunch, try either Renato al Ghetto or Nonna Betta. For something quick, grab a panino from BellaCarne Street Food or a couple of slices from Bona Pizza.
Don’t leave the Ghetto without stopping off at its two ancient sites: the Theater of Marcellus and the Portico of Octavia. The theater, started under Julius Caesar and finished under Augustus in the first century BC, predates the Colosseum by some 85 years and still hosts musical and theatrical performances to this day.
The Theater of Marcellus. Photo: Fiat 500e, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Portico of Octavia. Photo: Portico_Octavia_Rome.jpg: Jensens derivative work: Ptyx, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Capitoline Museums
Founded in 1471, the Capitoline Museums are the oldest public museums in the world and display the city’s richest collection of ancient Roman artefacts, rivalled only by the Vatican Museums. I’d recommend purchasing an audioguide to get the most from your visit, and setting aside between 1.5-2 hours to explore the collection.
Make sure to go down into the corridor that connects both wings of the museum. Not only is it full of translated tomb inscriptions which shed light on daily life in ancient Rome, but it also leads to a section of the tabularium, Rome’s ancient archives, which offers a sweeping view over the Roman Forum and Colosseum in the distance. Definitely also stop by the reconstruction of the colossal statue of the emperor Constantine in the museum courtyard
Tickets for the Capitoline Museums cost €15 (or €20.50 for entry to the temporary exhibitions) and can be purchased in advance or on the day (there’s no need to prebook unless for peace of mind). The museums are open daily from 9:30am until 7:30pm.
Piazza del Campidoglio and the entrance to the Capitoline Museums. Photo: Suicasmo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Salone of the Palazzo Nuovo. Photo: Ricardo André Frantz (User:Tetraktys), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Conservators’ Room in the Capitoline Museums. Photo: Ricardo André Frantz (User:Tetraktys), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Domus Aurea (Nero’s Golden Palace)
The Domus Aurea is one of Rome’s best-kept secrets, familiar mostly only to history buffs. But for anyone fascinated by Rome’s unhinged emperors, it is well worth a visit. The emperor Nero built this palace on public land devastated by the Great Fire of 64 AD, turning tragedy into a vanity project of staggering proportions.
It was said to have had a dining room with a revolving ceiling, extensive woodland where wild animals would roam, and even an artificial lake – upon which the Colosseum would later be built.
The complex - and the vast resources wasted on building it - were a major source of embarrassment for Nero’s successors, and much of it was stripped down within as little as 10 years and other parts essentially bulldozed/buried. It wasn’t even rediscovered until the 15th century!
The Domus Aurea is open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays (from 9:15am until 5:15pm). Tickets cost €18 per person for non-guided visits or €26 per person for guided tours of 75 minutes with a virtual reality component. I would highly recommend doing the latter.
Photos never do this place justice, so I’ve instead included below a map showing the layout of the complex.
Layout of the Domus Aurea. Photo: Cristiano64, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening: Ancient sites at dusk and dinner on Piazza Navona
The Ara Pacis (Altar of Peace)
The Altar of Augustan Peace (or Ara Pacis as it’s known in Latin) is the best-surviving relic from the reign of Augustus. More than an altar, it’s a piece of masterful propaganda, dedicated after almost 100 years of continuous civil war to convey the message that death and destruction were a thing of the past and, under Augustus’ benevolent leadership, good times were here to stay.
The Ara Pacis museum is small, but manages to squeeze a lot in. It houses a reconstruction of Rome’s ancient Campus Martius district, a brief video explaining Augustus’ life and times and the significance of the altar to his propaganda drive, and the altar itself – a monumental structure you explore both inside and out.
For me, its highlights are the two frescoes running either side, which depict Augustus’ imperial family during a religious procession. You can save yourself the admission fee by viewing them from the street outside, but I’d still suggest going inside. The museum is open every day until 7:30pm. Tickets cost €14 and can be purchased on the door (there’s no need to reserve in advance), and a visit takes between 30-45 minutes.
The Ara Pacis altar. Photo: Rabax63, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Mausoleum of Augustus
Right beside the Ara Pacis is the dynastic tomb of Augustus himself. Like many sites in Rome, it alternates between being open and closed for restorations (at the time of writing it is closed). Even viewed from outside, however, it’s an impressive monument, and a fitting end to the first day’s ancient theme.
The Mausoleum of Augustus. Photo: MumblerJamie, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Dinner on Piazza Navona
There are plenty of bars and restaurants around the Ara Pacis, but walk just five minutes down the road and you’ll reach Piazza Navona. For dinner, I recommend Da Tonino: Trattoria Bassetti. It’s a small, unassuming restaurant, with a few tables inside and a few more spilling out onto the street. But it serves up excellent Roman pasta dishes and other fare at reasonable prices and with a lovely ambience.
After dinner, I’d recommend a walk through the historic center before heading back to your hotel.
Piazza Navona. Photo: Intel Free Press, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Day 2: The highlights of Rome’s historic center
Your second day in Rome orients you around the historic center and checks off many of the Italian capital’s household names. This day is slightly more flexible than the others on this itinerary, so feel free to use it as an adapted itinerary for day one if you’re arriving on an early flight and are feeling the effects of jetlag.
In the morning, visit major sites including the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps as well as lesser-known highlights like the Borghese Gallery or Bone Crypt, and visit shops and boutiques along the Via del Corso or super chic Via Margutta or Via del Babuino.
In the afternoon, step inside the Pantheon, marvel at the Caravaggio paintings within the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi, and sit down for an evening aperitivo at one of Rome’s most picturesque squares: Piazza Navona or Campo de’ Fiori. Then hop into a taxi or take the bus down to Testaccio for an al fresco dinner in a Roman trattoria.
Morning – The monuments and museums of the historic center
There are two ways to start your second day. The first is to wake up early (around 6am) and get to the Trevi Fountain before it’s inundated with crowds. The second is to secure tickets for the Borghese Gallery - something you’ll need to do some weeks in advance since the gallery is small and spaces limited -before strolling down to the center through Villa Borghese park. If you’re starting with Borghese Gallery, you’ll want to move the Trevi Fountain to late after dinner.
The Trevi Fountain
Like the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain hardly needs an introduction. Built at the juncture of three ancient streets (tre vie, in Italian), this baroque masterpiece is the most famous fountain in the world. Unfortunately, its global reputation draws enormous crowds, making it one of the most popular (and poorly managed) tourist attractions on the planet.
Believe me when I say that you don’t want to visit the Trevi Fountain any time between 9am and 10:30pm. The hordes of tourists jostling for prime positions up front, and experiencing the monument solely through their camera lenses, drain the fountain of the glamour we typically associate with it through films like Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita or - so some of my younger tour groups tell me - the equally iconic Lizzie McGuire Movie.
Visit early in the morning or very late at night, however, and you can still enjoy the atmosphere of its shimmering sculptures and gushing waters, fed by a still-functioning Roman aqueduct from the first century BC. The Trevi Fountain is absolutely worth seeing - you just have to pick your moment.
The Trevi Fountain
Borghese Gallery and Villa Borghese Park
Set within a stunning 17th-century palace, the Borghese Gallery offers one of the best museum experiences in Rome - if not Europe - with its rich but manageable collection of stunning Bernini sculptures and portraits by the likes of Caravaggio, Titian, and Raphael.
The Borghese Gallery is open every day except Mondays, and from 9am until 7pm. Tickets start from €15 plus a €2 reservation fee, and a visit typically takes between an hour and 90 minutes.
The Villa Borghese Park - in which the Gallery sits - is also expansive and lovely, with a pretty lake (check out the Temple of Aesculapius, which lies beside the lake) and beautiful gardens/grounds, so plan to spend some time exploring the park too, either before or after checking out the art.
Sala della Paolina in the Borghese Gallery. Photo: Fabrizio Garrisi, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The lake and Temple of Aesculapius. Photo: Pierre-Selim Huard, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Spanish Steps
From the Borghese Gallery, it’s a leisurely 25-minute stroll down through Villa Borghese park to the top of the Spanish Steps (from the Trevi Fountain it’s 10 minutes), taking you past the Pincian Terrace and its sweeping views over the Roman skyline.
Make sure to duck into the Church of Trinità dei Monti at the top of the Spanish Steps, a 16th-century French church with an elaborate late Renaissance interior.
The Spanish Steps. Photo: Iste Praetor, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Capuchin Crypt
Situated a 10-minute walk from the Spanish Steps, on Via Veneto, the Capuchin Crypt is perhaps Rome’s most macabre site - a 17th-century ossuary that displays the remains of thousands of Capuchin friars, their ornately arranged bones acting as a memento mori for all who visit.
This is disturbing stuff, and not for the faint-hearted or those of a queasy disposition (especially just before lunch). Entry tickets cost €10 (with an audioguide included) and you should set aside no more than 45 minutes for the visit.
The Capuchin Crypt. Photos: Dnalor 01, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon – The Pantheon, and the squares of the historic center
Lunch
Wherever you eat around the historic center, you’re going to be paying above the average. And frankly, that’s okay. Most of the ‘hidden gem’ places the locals tend to go to are indoors and lack atmosphere, and part of the joy of eating out in Rome is exactly that – being outdoors.
Grab a quick pasta to go from La Pastaciutta, a cured meat and cheese platter from Prosciutteria Cantina dei Papi, and maybe a quick artisan gelato from Il new Gelato di San Crispino.
After lunch, you might want to dedicate some time to shopping along the Via del Corso (home to plenty of big brands) or - during the sweltering summer months - the air-conditioned Galleria Alberto Sordi. For something a little more chic and boutique, check out the shops near the Spanish Steps, particularly along Via Margutta and Via del Babuino.
Looking out over/along Via del Corso. Photo: Adam Lusch, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Pantheon
Still standing almost entirely intact after 1,900 years, the Pantheon is the best-preserved temple from the ancient world, largely because it was converted into a church early in the 7th century. Although hugely impressive from the square outside, it’s only from the inside that you can appreciate its grandeur and the architectural marvel of its free-standing dome.
As of the time of writing, there are two ways to get into the Pantheon without waiting in line for ages. The first is to prebook a timed entry ticket through the official website (€5), after which you just turn up on the day and get into the fast-moving middle line.
The alternative is to join the longer line on the left of the entrance which is for cash payments only. You may still end up waiting a while, but this line moves much faster than the one for card payments. The Pantheon is open daily from 9am until 7pm, and you should set aside some 30 minutes for your visit.
The Pantheon. Photo: Rabax63, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Church of San Luigi dei Francesi
The walk from the Pantheon to Piazza Navona is only five minutes. But on the way, make sure you duck into the sixteenth-century Church of Saint Louis of the French.
Its Baroque marble sculptures and gilded golden stucco decorations are nothing short of spectacular, but the showstopper is to be found displayed in the top left chapel – a cycle of Caravaggio paintings depicting three major episodes in the life of St Matthew.
Inside the Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: NikonZ7II, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Piazza Navona and the Campo de’ Fiori
Built on top of a stadium from the first century AD (from which the square derives its shape), Piazza Navona is Rome’s most picturesque square. Its centerpiece is Bernini’s 17th-century Fountain of the Four Rivers and the obelisk protruding out from it.
I wouldn’t recommend hanging around for long unless you’re ready to share the space with other tourists. For a more authentic atmosphere, sip a spritz at a bar on one of the streets just behind it, especially the beautiful Via dei Coronari.
A few minutes walk south of Piazza Navona is another famous square: Campo de’ Fiori (the ‘Field of Flowers’. Nobody really knows where the name came from; the only flowers you’ll see these days are those sold at the touristy farmers’ market that springs up here every morning.
But this square is a great place to grab a drink, park up on an outdoor table, and watch Rome’s young and beautiful get ready for their night out.
The daily market on the Campo de’ Fiori. Photo: Myrabella, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening – Dinner in the authentically Roman district of Testaccio
Dinner and a wander in Testaccio
For quality Roman cuisine in a homely setting, book a table at Piatto Romano (my current restaurant of choice when friends and family visit). Flavio al Velavevodetto, a quirky restaurant built into a manmade mound of ancient pottery shards, is brilliant too and serves perhaps the best carbonara in Rome.
For pizza, it’s a toss-up for which is best between Pizzeria Da Remo and Pizzeria Nuovo Mondo, while for classic Roman fare in abundance, look no further than Trattoria Da Bucatino.
After dinner, you might want to grab a drink at Enoteca Palombi and sit out on the square in Piazza Testaccio or go for a walk around the neighborhood. When you’re done, call a taxi or jump on one of the many buses running throughout the night along the Via Marmorata.
Day 3: The Vatican – and the Rome of the Popes
Today’s itinerary transports you into the beating heart of the Catholic Church. Start with a timed-entry visit to the Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel, and St Peter’s Basilica before finishing the morning in Savelli’s gift shop for souvenir shopping.
After lunch, either venture back across the river to visit the other three papal basilicas before winding down for the evening in Trastevere, or make your way straight down to Trastevere to explore its churches, villas, shops and squares, building in a climb up the Janiculum Hill to take in sweeping views over the city.
**As you’ll be visiting active places of worship, make sure you’re wearing appropriate clothing (covered knees and shoulders). If you’re visiting during summer, and are worried about the heat, pack a shawl for the Sistine Chapel and a lighter change of clothes for the afternoon and evening.
Morning - the Vatican
The Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel
What I’m about to say is controversial. But as someone who regularly accompanies groups through the Vatican, I firmly believe that the best way to visit the Vatican is not on a group tour, but either independently - with an audio guide of choice (like Rick Steves’) or the Vatican Museums’ official audio guide -or on a private tour.
There are two reasons for this: first, the headsets the Vatican insists you wear for guided tours are horrendous – so much so that you can barely understand the guide. Second, group tours tend to stick to the same formula, which prevents you from honing in on the collections of interest to you.
It is also essential that you purchase your tickets in advance through the Vatican Museums’ official site (selecting “Admission tickets - Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel”) and choose a timed-entry slot, preferably early in the morning or late in the afternoon. You’ll still have to join a line for the time you have chosen (running alongside the wall outside the entrance to the museums), but it moves fast, unlike the one that snakes the length of the road leading to the Vatican Museums, which is for those poor souls without timed entry tickets.
You should set aside around three to four hours for your visit to the Vatican, and make sure to include the Raphael Rooms on your itinerary, the frescoes of which are perhaps even more impressive than Michelangelo’s in the Sistine Chapel.
The Cortile della Pigna. Photo: Jean-Pol GRANDMONT, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Vatican Museums complex seen from St. Peter’s Basilica. Photo: Staselnik, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The north and east walls of the Sistine Chapel. Photo: Clayton Tang, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
St Peter’s Basilica
As with the Vatican Museums, you should not try to visit St Peter’s Basilica without pre-booking a timed entry slot. Otherwise, you’ll find yourself standing in line for hours. But the line is long for good reason.
St Peter’s Basilica is simply incredible – a grandiose, gold-leafed, awe-inspiring example of architecture, befitting of the most important church in the Western world. Note that note a single painting is to be found within the basilica as each artwork is instead an impossibly intricate mosaic. Factor in between 45 minutes to an hour for your visit.
St Peter’s Basilica
Inside the church
Afternoon – Lunch, the three remaining Papal Basilicas, and Trastevere
Lunch near the Basilica or in Prati
After visiting Saint Peter’s I’d suggest grabbing lunch somewhere in the area. You can just get something quick (and almost certainly quite touristy) in the area right around the Basilica, but you also have lots of good options if you head just a little bit north from the church into the pleasant Prati neighborhood.
Whichever option you decide on, after lunch it’s time to continue the religious theme of the morning, visiting some (or maybe all!) of Rome’s 3 other Papal Basilicas. So hop on Metro Line A and get off at the San Giovanni stop to get started!
The three (remaining) Papal Basilicas
Rome is home to four papal basilicas, significant centers of Catholic worship and sites of considerable historical and religious importance. You already saw one of then earlier - that’s St. Peter’s - and chief among the remaining is San Giovanni in Laterano (St John in Lateran). Many are surprised to learn that this church, not St Peter’s, is the oldest basilica in Rome as well as the official seat of the Pope as Bishop of Rome.
A 15-minute bus ride away is Santa Maria Maggiore (St Mary Major), the Church’s main Marian church and a newfound pilgrimage site as the resting place of the late Pope Francis.
After this, take the Metro B line south to San Paolo station, and you’ll reach the final papal basilica: San Paolo fuori le Mura (St Paul outside the Walls). Though the most recently reconstructed of the four, it is breathtakingly immense and well worth visiting. Entry to each basilica is free.
The nave of the Church of San Giovanni in Laterano. Photo: Dnalor 01, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The interior of the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Photo: Livioandronico2013, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A wander in Trastevere
The riverside district of Trastevere, which means ‘across the River Tiber’, is one of Rome’s most popular neighborhoods, blending a labyrinthine medieval layout with a great dining scene and a very lively nightlife. Trastevere is a maze - even to me after so many years here. But its layout is precisely what gives it its character, and part of the fun is getting lost among its alleyways – a curious mix of cobbled-street charm and edgy graffiti tags.
If you still have energy for another museum visit, Raphael’s frescoes at Villa Farnesina are alone worth the €7 entry ticket (open Monday to Saturday, 9am until 2pm).
Otherwise, set your sights on the Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, a structure which originally dates to the 4th century and whose monolithic granite columns were taken from the nearby Baths of Caracalla (more on which tomorrow).
A typical cobbled street in Trastevere
Evening – Dinner in Trastevere and a walk up Janiculum Hill
Dinner in Trastevere
Once dinnertime rolls around you’re in the perfect place as Trastevere is full of great restaurants - trattorie and osterie -, and my favorite among them is probably La Gattabuia (which I also believe is a favorite of Dustin Hoffman). Just know that its unapologetically meaty menu might not be great for vegetarians, so you have very good alternative in the way of Popi Popi for pizza or Rione 13 for mouthwatering pasta all’amatriciana.
Trastevere has become quite touristy in recent years though and it’s very well-known for its excellent food scene, so lots of places are cashing in on the reputation even if they don’t warrant the attention they receive.
So a word of advice: don’t believe the hype if you see people lining up around the block to get into any of Trastevere’s restaurants. It’ll be more of a reflection of a social media/TikTok trend than a place of particular quality.
Janiculum Hill
Either after or before dinner (depending on energy levels), you should make your way up the Janiculum Hill. To do this, you can either take the 115 bus from Viale Trastevere or walk the short but steep route from around Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.
The views from the terrace at the top are breathtaking and well worth the effort to get up there.
Rome at night, seen from Janiculum Hill. Photo: Desmatron at Italian Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Day 4: Rome without the crowds
Your final day in Rome takes you off the beaten path and away from the crowds. Start with a morning stroll, cycle, or tour down the ancient Appian Way, ancient Rome’s first major road, exploring the ruins and residences that line either side and venturing down into its catacombs hewn into the earth alongside it. Then return to the centre, where you’ll get a street food lunch at a local food market.
In the afternoon, visit the monumental Baths of Caracalla, brought to life by virtual reality augmentation, and the collection of ancient sculpture at Centrale Montemartini, or browse the collection of Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, where you’ll be wowed by the color that infused the ancient world, preserved in frescoes and mosaics retrieved from the city’s imperial villas.
Finish your evening in the neighborhood of Garbatella, a food-lovers haven still unspoiled by mass tourism.
Morning – Travel back in time on the Appian Way and descend into Rome’s catacombs
The Appian Way
The Via Appia Antica (Old Appian Way) was Rome’s first major road, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the inspiration behind the saying ‘all roads lead to Rome’. Dating from the 4th century BC, the Appian Way is the most captivating remnant of antiquity in Rome, paved with polished basalt stones, populated by sheep and goats, and lined with tombs, catacombs, imperial-era villas, baths complexes, and even a remarkably preserved chariot racing track.
You can visit the Appian Way independently by renting bikes from EcoBike on the Appian Way or catching the 118 bus to the Basilica of St Sebastian and then walking the rest of the way. But bear in mind that the latter will involve a lot of steps (the distance from St Sebastian to the Villa of the Quintilli, the usual end point on the Appian Way, and back is about six miles).
But by far the best way to experience the Appian Way is with a guide who can provide context for what you’re seeing while helping you navigate should you branch off to explore its environs.
Ebike tour of the Appian Way, Aqueduct Park and Caffarella Valley – A 3.5-hour small-group tour that hones in on the highlights of the Appian Way, the remains of Rome’s ancient aqueducts, and the ancient remains, flora and fauna found in the Caffarella Valley.
Golf cart tour of the Appian Way with Catacombs visit – An abbreviated version of the e-bike tour, this relaxing itinerary immerses you in the main monuments on the Appian Way, takes you around 3 miles along the ancient road, and also includes a 45-minute guided visit to the catacombs.
Private Appian Way tour with an Oxford historian – Perfect for history buffs, this customizable 2 to 3.5-hour tour is available as a walking tour, bike tour or e-bike tour.
A gorgeous setting in the Appian Way Regional Park. Photo: LuisaV72, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Tumuli degli Orazi e Curiazi along the Appian Way. Photo: Nicolò Musmeci, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
A section of the Appian Way very near to central Rome. Photo: Kleuske at Dutch Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Aqueduct Park
Rome’s Parco degli acquedotti (Aqueduct Park) is an expansive green lung to the southeast of the city center which is home to the remains of seven of Rome’s eleven ancient aqueducts, many of which are remarkably well preserved.
At weekends, the park is bustling with local life, with kids kicking balls about (sometimes using arches as goalposts), families meeting up for picnics, and the more motivated Romans attempting to jog off some of last night’s carbonara.
It’s not amidst the neon-illuminated chaos close to the Trevi Fountain, but here, in peaceful natural spaces with the aqueducts sprawling in the background, that visitors get a real feel of Roman life.
The easiest way to reach the Aqueduct Park is by bike and as part of a 3.5-hour Appian Way tour. If you’d rather reach it from the center, you can also ride the Metro A line south to Giulio Agricola station and walk 10 minutes.
Rome’s Catacombs
Broadly speaking, there are three catacombs to choose from: San Sebastiano, San Callisto, and Domitilla. Each has its merit, so which you visit should depend on what you’re interested in seeing.
The Catacombs of San Sebastiano are the oldest in the world, and incorporate the vestiges of a pagan era necropolis. The Catacombs of San Callisto contain a chamber which once housed the remains of Rome’s early popes. And the decorative frescoes found within the Catacombs of Domitilla constitute some of our earliest examples of early Christian art.
All visits to Rome’s catacombs must be done as part of a guided tour and tickets can be purchased onsite for €10.
The Basilica of Saints Nereus and Achilleus in the Catacombs of Domitilla. Photo: Dennis G. Jarvis, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon: Lunch, and Roman ruins restored through virtual reality
Lunch at either the Testaccio or Campagna Amica market
After the Appian Way, take a taxi back to within the city walls, stopping at either Testaccio Market (Monday to Saturday until 3:30pm), Campagna Amica Market (weekends until 3pm) or Viale Aventino. In theory, Testaccio food market is open until 3:30pm, but in reality everything starts to shut an hour before.
If you’re not going to make it in time, get dropped off on Viale Aventino, next to the Circo Massimo metro station. Here you’ll find plenty of Italian and international eateries for a quick bite to eat or sit-down lunch.
Baths of Caracalla
Built in the early 3rd century AD, these baths were one of almost a dozen enormous bath complexes spread throughout the city to keep Rome’s population clean and healthy. Calling these baths is a little misleading, however. In reality, this was a monumental leisure complex, complete with swimming pools, saunas, gymnasiums, and even libraries.
The Baths of Caracalla are worth visiting just for the sheer scale, but what really brings them to life are the virtual reality goggles, which reconstruct the baths in stunning 3D. Tickets cost from €8 (the VR costs extra), and the site is open daily from 9am until 7:15pm. There’s no need to book in advance, but please double-check before visiting as sometimes the baths are closed for concerts or events.
Ruins of the Baths of Caracalla. Photo: User:Ethan Doyle White, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Known also as the National Museum of Rome, Palazzo Massimo alle Terme is one of Rome’s most underrated museums. It displays a fantastic collection of ancient bronzes and marble sculptures, portraits, mosaics, and even the remains of the pleasure barges built by the emperor Caligula, known as the Nemi Ships.
But the unquestionable highlight of its collection are the frescoes on the top floor. I guarantee you will be astonished by the depth of color and perspective that characterised the art that adorned the houses of Rome’s elite. Don’t miss in particular the ultra-realistic garden frescoes retrieved from the House of Livia (Augustus’ wife).
To get here, jump on the Metro B line and get off at Termini (from where it’s a five-minute walk). Palazzo Massimo is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30am until 7pm, and tickets cost €15.
Frescoes from the Villa of Livia, now housed in the museum. Photo: Prof. Mortel, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Centrale Montemartini
Situated in the Ostiense district, not far from Testaccio, the Circus Maximus, and the Baths of Caracalla, Centrale Montemartini is an extension of the Capitoline Museums and one of Rome’s quirkiest museums. Its permanent display is predictably Roman (ancient sculptures, mosaics, and funerary monuments for the most part).
But these are set against the industrial backdrop of a decommissioned electrical power station. Railway enthusiasts will also find the mid-19th-century train carriages of Pope Pius IX preserved in one of the boiler rooms.
Tickets cost €11 and the museum is open daily, except Mondays, from 9am to 7pm.
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The Engine Room of the Centrale Montemartini Museum. Photo: Carole Raddato from FRANKFURT, Germany, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Evening – Do as the Romans do, exploring Garbatella
Dinner and a wander in Garbatella
I’ve been dining out in Garbatella for four years now, and I have yet to have a bad meal. And that’s because restaurants that don’t cater to the pickiest of clientele (i.e. locals) simply don’t last in this part of town.
You won’t find many international options, mind, and ‘Variations on a theme of pasta’ is very much the local repertoire. But Garbatella remains my favorite neighborhood for eating out, and I think it’s the perfect place for your last night in Rome.
For finer dining, reserve a table at Ristoro degli Angeli. For huge portions of classic Roman pasta dishes and meaty mains, try Ar Grottino der Traslocatore. For great pizza and pasta dishes in a family-friendly setting, sit yourself down at Mattarello.
After dinner, I’d suggest exploring the area a bit. Or you could do this beforehand, but either way, plan to spend a bit of time here. Admittedly, Garbatella is a fairly modern part of the city and it’s not especially pretty, but I think it’s a nice place to visit because it’s very local and totally different from the magnificent ancient/historic areas that you’ll have explored over the last four days. Most Romans live in areas like this after all, so a wander through the neighborhood is a chance to see regular, down-to-earth Roman life.
When you’re ready to head back to your hotel, either take the metro (Garbatella station on the Metro B Line), jump on a bus from Circovallazione Ostiense, or order an uber/taxi.
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