A Local’s Guide to Travel in Sicily
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Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and a place that has been fought over, conquered, and colonized by civilizations for milennia. From the Phoenicians to the Greeks and on to Arabs, the Bourbons, and the Spanish, it has truly been at the crossroads of civilizations.
The region is comprised of its principal island as well as a series of smaller islands and archipelagos – Ustica, Pantelleria, the Eolian islands, the Aegadian islands, the Pelagie islands (home to Lampedusa), etc.
Inhabited dating back at least 14,000 years, the Phoenicians and the Greeks are often regarded as the initial civilizations to have formed colonies on the island (beginning around the 8th century BC), but long before them three native peoples occupied these lands: the Siculi in the east; the Sicani in the center; and the Elimi in the west.
Constantly changing hands and passing under different influences and cultures, Sicily was and remains an incredible melting pot.
Visitors today can experience that history in abundance through our incredible archaeological sights, historic architecture, and even the language and cuisine.
But Sicily is also about much more than the past and you’ll also find busy cities, gorgeous Baroque towns, impressive mountains, pristine natural areas, some of the best beaches in Italy, fantastic wine, and an excellent, totally distinct cuisine. There's a lot to discover!
I can't possibly hope to cover a place like Sicily in just one single article, but I've done my best to cover the major topics that you'll be wondering about as you plan your trip.
So, settle in for a long read, and let's get to it!
Table of Contents
Where is Sicily?
Sicily lies right in the center of the Mediterranean Sea, about 100 miles northeast of Tunisia in northern Africa, and around 260 miles south of Rome (as the crow flies).
Located just off the toe of Italy’s “boot”, Sicily is separated from the southern region of Calabria, in mainland Italy, by the Strait of Messina, which is just under 2 miles wide at its narrowest point.
About 60 kilometers to Sicily’s south is the island nation of Malta.
A quick introduction to the island
Among travelers, Sicily is best known for Mount Etna, heavenly sandy beaches, Greek archaeological sites, the Baroque cities of the Val di Noto, and the fading splendor and urban chaos of Palermo. Oh, and our divine food and wine!
And Sicily certainly has all those things - and more!
Although people don't normally know this, the the island is predominantly hilly and even quite mountainous. Very little of it is actually flat. The interior of the islands is made up almost entirely of rolling hills, often by high peaks. There are even mountains on the coast, such as the Nebrodi and Madonie, and of course, volcanoes! Europe’s highest active volcano, Mount Etna, stands at 3,350 meters high, dominating the coast and horizon between Messina and Catania.
The largest cities, Palermo and Catania, are situated on opposite coasts (Palermo in the west; Catania in the east), and most of Sicily's cities and larger towns are also coastal. The interior is sparsely populated, with small, hilltop villages overlooking immense fields of golden wheat. If you're of Sicilian heritage, there's a pretty good chance that these are the villages of your ancestors.
Many of our hills and mountains are covered with magnificent forests, especially the Madonie and Nebrodi mountains, where you can enjoy spectacular hikes in unspoiled wilderness. Few people think of Sicily as a place for hiking and trekking, but there is a pretty good network of hiking and mountain biking trails.
And of course, we can't forget about the sea. Wherever you are in Sicily, you are never far from the coast. With over 600 miles of coastline, you'll find a delighttful mix of sandy beaches, nature reserves, shores made up of volcanic rocks, dramatic cliffs, and pebbly coves. And lots of fishing villages and coastal cities!
Located at the point where the Eurasian and African tectonic plates meet, volcanic terrain is a constant feature. Apart from Mount Etna, there are also a number of small volcanic islands encircling the main island, and impressive lava-formed rocky coastlines run around its perimeter. The landscapes here are unlike anywhere else in Italy.
Culturally, Sicily is also distinct. Having been colonized by so many civilizations and largely ruled by dynasties from beyond Italy, our cuisine, traditions, language, and architecture are unique to those on the mainland. Moreover, Sicily only became part of Italy in the mid-19th century, so it’s still relatively new that we are even part of Italy!
How to get here
By plane
The easiest way to reach Sicily is by plane. The island has four international airports, with two of them being the primary ones: Catania Fontanarossa Airport in the east and Palermo Falcone e Borsellino Airport in the west.
Two smaller airports, Trapani’s Birgi Airport and Comiso Pio La Torre Airport near to Ragusa, are your other options. The airport near Ragusa is by far the smallest of the 4 and has relatively few connections.
Palermo, Catania, and Trapani have direct connections with many cities throughout Italy and Europe.
For those coming from outside of Europe, with the exception of direct flights from New York's JFK airport to Palermo and Catania, there are no direct long-haul international flights to Sicily. Most visitors will need to make a connection in Rome, Milan, or somewhere else in Europe.
By ferry
For those coming from within Italy, you can also reach Sicily by ferry.
Palermo has ferry connections to Genova, Livorno, Rome’s Civitavecchia port, Naples, Malta, and Tunis (in Tunisia). Each of these ferries carries both passengers and cars. Depending on which city you depart out of, the journey takes between 10 to 14 hours.
From Villa San Giovanni in Calabria, the closest mainland port to Sicily, several ferries depart daily for the Sicilian city of Messina, just across the Strait of Messina from Calabria. The ride takes 20 minutes.
How long to spend
To get a good introduction to the island and see the major highlights, you need a minimum of one week in Sicily. To do a comprehensive islandwide trip, you really need 10-14 days. However, a week is enough to see a lot.
If you have less time, you can still visit, but you'll need to choose one part of the island and stay around there.
A week gives you enough time to do a very fast semi-islandwide trip. You'll be rushing, but it's doable.
Below I've given quick overviews for how to spend 7-14 days. You'll find more detailed itinerary ideas at the bottom of the article and in our 7-day Sicily itinerary and 10-day Sicily itinerary.
7 days
If you want to see a lot of the island, with 7 days you can explore Palermo, hit the Caribbean-like beach at San Vito Lo Capo, wander medieval Erice, gaze at Marsala's salt pants, see the Greek ruins at Valley of the Temples, stop at the Val di Noto's Baroque cities of Noto and Syracuse, and even squeeze in a visit to Taormina and Mount Etna.
Being honest, I consider that to be an overly ambitiout trip with 7 days. By trying to fit so much into just a week, you'll just spend all your time driving and rushing. Instead, I usually recommend that travelers with a week choose between visiting western or eastern Sicily, and then concentrate their whole trip in that region. It gives you time to actually enjoy where you are, go swimming, relax, and get a little off the beaten path.
10-14 days
With 10 days to two weeks, an island-wide trip becomes a real possibility. Of course, whether or not it's the right move for you depends on how fast you want to move, what you're interested in seeing, and how frequently you want to pack and unpack your bags.
Sicily is a big island and each of her coasts (and interior) offers plenty to keep you occupied for a couple of weeks, so you won't get bored if you choose to cover less ground. Also, you have lovely island chains like the Egadi and Aoelian, which each require 1-3 days to visit, so if those are on your bucketlist, you'll need to plan accordingly.
Especially for those who want to do outdoors activities, visit archaeological sights, spend a fair amount of time at the beach, and visit the interior or get off the beaten path, I always recommend trying to cover less terrain.
Things to do
Sailing off the coast of Favignana
1. Enjoy the varied and gorgeous architecture
Despite its enormous geographic diversity, Sicily's most brilliant jewels are its cities, which exhibit decadent splendor. Noble Palermo is the most impressive of them, but you’ll also find splendid late-Baroque architecture in places like Siracusa, Noto, Ragusa, and Catania.
Many people come to Sicily and almost entirely avoid spending time in the cities because of reputations for being dirty, dangerous, chaotic, or just not that interesting. While they can certainly be chaotic, the cities are not dangerous and they are full of splendid architecture, great culture, terrific restaurants, and interesting daily life.
I don't recommend spending all your time in our big cities, but I do think you should visit a few of them!
2. Hit the beach!
Stretching for more than 1000 kilometers, Sicily’s coastline offers dozens of heavenly beaches, from popular sandy shores to hidden coves nestled between craggy rocks.
In general, I regard the best beaches to be those around the cities of Ragusa and Trapani, which are on different sides of the island. But it's all a matter of personal taste.
The beaches between Palermo and Trapani, such as Mondello and San Vito lo Capo, have a distinct Caribbean vibe. Off Trapani's coast, the Aegadian islands, particularly Favignana, offer a lovely island escape.
If you’re keen on wilder beaches, the hidden coves at the Zingaro nature reserve or the beaches around Torre Salsa, near Agrigento are perfect. Next to Agrigento, the famous Scala dei Turchi is an imposing rock formation with giant steps dropping into blue waters.
In the Vendicari in eastern Sicily, you can swim in the crystal clear waters of a nature reserve.
Or, if you’re looking for a bit of the high-life, take a dip at Isola Bella, right in front of Taormina. Take a look at our guide to the best beaches in eastern Sicily for more ideas.
And for those feeling adventurous, dive into the sapphire blue water lapping at the lava-formed rocky shores of the Riviera dei Ciclopi, near Catania.
3. Visit our archaeological sites
Greek temples, Roman theaters and mosaics, prehistoric tombs: Sicily has plenty of ancient remains.
The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento boasts the best-preserved ancient Greek temples in the world, and the Greek theater of Syracuse still holds classical performances, as does the fascinating theater in Segesta.
The spectacular amphitheater of Taormina sits overlooking the sea and Mount Etna.
And the town of Piazza Armerina is home to the Villa Romana del Casale, which contains one of the world’s largest collection of Roman mosaics.
4. Shop for locally made goods and handicrafts
Sicily has an immense arts and crafts heritage spanning from pottery production to painted majolica (tin-glazed earthenware), and from lifelike puppets to coral jewels. Shoppers will be very pleased with what they find.
The town of Caltagirone is renowned for its hand painted ceramics, as are Sciacca (on the southern coast) and Santo Stefano di Camastra (on the northern coast). In each of these towns you can still see the artisans at work and even take lessons.
Trapani and Sciacca are well known for coral processing.
In Catania, Siracusa, and Palermo, puppet-making is still a family affair. You can attend a performance and learn the history behind it, as well as the techniques used to create the puppets. And, of course, buy some to bring home!
5. Eat your way through the island
Sicilian cuisine is fairly well known throughout the world, but it's much more complex and varied than what you'll find in most restaurants abraod. After all, our food today is the result of 3,500 years of international trade and occupation by empires and civilizations from all over Europe and Northern Africa.
For the best introduction to Sicilian cuisine, take your time strolling through and sampling everything in the souk-like markets of Palermo, Catania, and Siracusa.
Taste cannoli and cassata, two ricotta-filled delights; cool off from hot days with a granita (a slushy of sorts); indulge in the visual, as well as gustatory pleasure of frutta martorana (marzipan sweets); and be surprised by Aztec chocolate (in Sicily? Yes!).
Next, be sure to try biscuits filled with chocolate and meat in Modica; be tempted by pasta with sardines in Palermo or with fried eggplant in Catania; and once you’ve tried everything else, dare to taste fried or grilled innards (pani ca meusa and stigghiole).
6. Go hiking and get outdoors
Hiking and outdoor enthusiasts will find myriad opportunities in Sicily. You can hike across the Madonie or the Nebrodi mountains, climb up Europe’s most active volcano, ski on the slopes of Mount Etna or ride horses among its forests, and bike along the rocky coast at Plemmirio (near Siracusa).
You can go birdwatching in the Vendicari nature reserve, canyoning along the impressive Alcantara Gorges (not far from Taormina), or even kitesurfing at the Stagnone (near Trapani) or Isola delle Correnti, Sicily’s southernmost tip.
7. Visit wineries and sample Sicilian wine
If you're a wine lover, Sicily has plenty to satisfy you! You have the the famous Marsala wine, area around Noto is popular for its Nero d’Avola, Syrah, and Passito wines (with those from around Noto particularly well regarded), and mineral-intense wines from Mount Etna, where the vines grow in volcanic soil.
Places to visit
Cefalù
The pleasure of visiting Sicily is that there's so much here: bustling cities, charming towns and villages, phenomenal beaches, rugged mountains, stunning Greek and Roman ruins, and a host of little archipelagos. There is a density of sights and attractions that is simply unparalleled.
All this is to say… there's a lot to see! So, this list is by no means a comprehensive guide to everywhere to visit, instead it's a mix of my personal favorites and places that I consider "must visits” for any first time visitor.
In time, perhaps some of them will become your favorites too!
Because Sicily is so big, know that when considering where to visit, you should break up the island into 4 principal "sub regions". These are: western Sicily, eastern Sicily, southeastern Sicily, and the interior.
Western Sicily
When thinking about Western Sicily, I usually consider the area beginning at Cefalù and then running west to Marsala and then south to Agrigento. That whole area is what I consider "western Sicily". This is the large area all around Palermo.
Eastern Sicily
By Eastern Sicily, I suppose I really mean northeastern Sicily. This is the area that runs from Catania north to Taormina and then west more or less to just before Cefalù.
This section of Sicily contains two of the island's premier tourist attractions - Mount Etna and Taormina - as well as its second largest city - Catania. Despite this, most of it is actually relatively unvisited.
Southeastern Sicily
Southeastern Sicily is essentially synonymous with the Val di Noto, an area made up of a number of towns and cities built in stunning late Baroque style. The region actually comprises a fair deal more terrain than just the Val di Noto, but the major sites of touristic interest are mostly there.
The region begins to the south of Catania and runs more or less to Licata. Aside from gorgeous towns and cities, in my opinion this region is also home to Sicily's best sandy beaches.
Inland Sicily
Sicily's rugged, dry, and sparsely populated interior is a place that very few visitors really spend any time in. The villages here are sleepy places whose younger inhabitants have, unfortunately, largely abandoned them in search of better opportunities in the coastal cities, other parts of Italy, and other countries. If you're of Sicilian heritage, there's a pretty good chance that this is where your ancestors were from! It's also where I'm from.
Although the villages here have their own appeal and the lonely landscapes are starkly beautiful, it's not somewhere that I recommend for first-time visitors with limited time. There's just too much to see elsewhere.
1. Palermo
Piazza della Vittoria in Palermo seen from atop the Cathedral
Palermo's Duomo
Palermo is Sicily’s buzzing and wonderfully chaotic capital, a place full of contrasts and faded glory. It has noble palaces, Baroque churches, hectic streets, souk-like markets, ancient golden mosaics, and modern art galleries. The restaurant scene is also terrific, and you'll find the best food in Sicily here.
It can be an overlwheming place at first and many travelers skip it altogether, just flying into the airport and then heading straight to their next destination. This is a shame as no visit to Sicily is complete without seeing - and experiencing - Palermo.
Using Palermo as your base, you can easily plan half-day or full-day trips to places like the pretty town of Cefalù, the stunning cathedral in Monreale, the Madonie mountains, and coastal towns like Mondello, Terrasini, Castellamare del Golfo, and San Vito Lo Capo (though this one starts to get rather far).
For more info, see our guide to Palermo.
2. Valley of the Temples
One of many temples within the Valley of the Temples
The ancient Akragas (now Agrigento) was a powerful Greek city with 300,000 inhabitants and it was far larger than even Athens at the time! Today, the impressive Unesco-listed Valley of the Temples archeological site testifies to this ancient glory. The site has the best-preserved temples outside of Greece.
Strolling through the Valley means marveling at your surroundings at every single step. Admire the ruins of the temple of Hercules, the huge Zeus sanctuary, and the still-intact Concordia temple.
3. Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro
A beach in the Zingaro Nature Reserve. Photo: René Bongard, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Sicily‘s first protected area, the Zingaro Nature Reserve is a slice of coast near to the town of San Vito La Capo (another must-visit place), about 1.5 hours west of Palermo
The reserve has a wonderful 7-km-long coastal path that offers superb views over the sea, with paths leading down to enchanting beaches and secret coves.
While visiting, be sure to seek out the following beaches: Cala Tonnarella dell’Uzzo, Cala Marinella, Cala Berretta, Cala della Disa, Cala del Varo, and Cala Capreria. You’ll find no roads and no cars here, just the sound of the wind and the waves.
4. Favignana
Favignana town and marina seen from above. Photo: Giulia C., CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A view over Cala Rossa bay. Photo: Arcona B&B, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The butterfly-shaped Favignana is the largest among the Egadi islands (Aegadian in English). It lies just off the mainland and is easy to acces from the city of Trapani via a 45-minute hydrofoil ride.
It's a much-loved destination for swimming (and diving) in turquoise waters like at the excellent beaches of Cala Rossa and Cala Bue Marino. Because it is small, mostly flat, and has limited traffic, it's a great place to rent a bike and cruise around, stopping wherever suits your fancy. You can also hike up to the Castello di Santa Caterina, a 15th-century fort.
The island has a nice little town with good accommodation options as well as lots of restaurants serving great seafood.
Part of what makes Favignana (and the Egadi islands in general) so special is that despite being so close to the mainland, they remain largely unknown to foreign visitors. Mass tourism and overdevelopment has not come for them (yet), making them an idyllic, yet accessible summer retreat.
Read more about Favignana (and the other islands) in our guide to the Egadi islands.
5. Marsala and Trapani: the Salt Road
Windmills and salt pans outside of Marsala
Trapani. Photo: Andrea Schaffer from Sydney, Australia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The so-called “Salt Road” is a long series of salt pans (locally called saline) that unfold on Sicily's western coast between the cities of Trapani and Marsala. At sunset, the pools glimmer in the sun and change color from yellow to rosy pink. Pretty windmills dot much of the terrain. Off the coast of the salt pans is the fascinating Isola di Mozia island, home to a wealth of Roman archaeological remains.
Although many visitors come just to see the salt pans and maybe taste marsala wine in Marsala, the area is relatively overlooked by international tourists.
Nearby, the beaches of Scopello, San Vito Lo Capo, and Castellamare del Golfo are perenially packed with visitors, yet Trapani and Marsala offer access to the same wonderful beaches (and more) with a fraction of the crowds and much better accommodation prices.
In general, I prefer Trapani as a base as its location is more convenient for exporing western Sicily, the Aegadian islands, and good beaches.
If you're interested in visiting, have a look at my guide to Trapani and guide to Marsala.
6. Segesta and Erice
The theater of Segesta overlooking the countryside below
The view of the coast from hilltop Erice
Segesta was an important 7th-century trading town founded by the Elymians, a pre-Greek people. Its absolute showstopper is the majestic Doric temple, which pops up out of nowhere amongst the surrounding fields. On windy days, its 36 columns play like a musical instrument, producing eerie sounds.
The Greek theater, dating back to the 3rd century BC, still hosts classical and modern plays. In Summer, you can attend a play at sunrise - magical!
Hilltop Erice is a medieval village in Western Sicily that looks out over the city of Trapani and its coastline. The town can be accessed by car, or for something a little different, a lovely funicular ride.
Surrounded by walls and with a castle looing overhead, Erice has a slightly fairy tale-esque feeling, especially if you're here on a day when typically thick fog (known locally as "Venus’ embrace”) hangs over town. No matter the weather, wandering through the cobbled streets and tight alleyways, always surrounded by stone buildings, feels like stepping back in time.
Although fairly far from Palermo (1.5 hours), day trips to Erice are quite common, typically also including visits to the Greek temple at Segesta and either the beaches of Trapani or its saltpans.
7. Catania
Catania with snow-capped Mount Etna on the horizon. Photo: Dariolp83, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Catania's Duomo at the end of a busy street
A busy market in central Catania
Brimming with history, culture, architecture, and a buzzing nightlife scene, Catania is a fantastic place to spend a few days in Sicily, especially if you’re on a longer trip.
The city, sitting in the shadow of the Mount Etna, has been shaped for centuries by the presence of this active volcano, including in its architecture, with many buildings built from dark, volcanic stone. Although not as physically pretty as the nearby towns and cities of the Val di Noto, Catania is also a Baroque gem.
A busy place and a real city, with a population of 300,000, Catania is not dependent on tourism and you can feel that when you arrive. Sure, people visit, but it's not a "tourist town".
It's not as “easy” to visit as some of the more touristic places on this list and you need to come with an idea for what you want to do, but it has an energy and authenticity that makes it a very interesting stop. Its fish markets are busy, its food is excellent, and its lively bar scene is a welcome change from the sleepy nightlife you'll find in most places.
It's also easy to visit Taormina, Etna, Piazza Armerina, and the "Riviera dei Ciclopi”coastline all as day trips.
Read more in our guide to Catania.
8. Taormina
Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina's main square
Taormina's iconic Greek theater
Isola Bella beach below town
Founded by the Greeks and then dominated by many different peoples since (much like the whole of Sicily), Taormina first became a popular tourist destination in the 18th century.
Since then, it has served as a ritzy holiday destination for nobility in the 1920’s and 30s, then for movie stars in the 50s and 60s, and today for just about everyone! It continues to be an unmissable stop where you can get a taste for the Sicilian dolce vita (good life).
The town itself is quite pretty, it has a lovely beach below it at Isola Bella, and its Greek amphitheater is among the most iconic places on the island. It's also a good base from which to visit Mount Etna, Giardini Naxos, and Catania.
For detailed info on planning a visit, here's our guide to Taormina.
9. Nebrodi Mountains
The green mountains of the Nebrodi park
The Parco dei Nebrodi, which is made up of the Nebrodi Mountains, is a natural oasis where wild nature and lush greenery rule over 80,000 hectares. Northwest of the city of Messina, it’s Sicily’s largest protected area and encompasses a variety of flora, fauna, and breathtaking landscapes.
Hike among its beech forests, climb rock faces, and reach the summit of Monte Soro to enjoy a panoramic view as far as the Aeolian Islands.
10. Mount Etna
Snowcapped Mount Etna with Catania and its coast below
Her Highness, Mount Etna, (yes, for locals it’s female!), is an absolutely unmissable place in Sicily. Europe’s highest volcano and a UNESCO-listed site since 2013, its slopes offer a surprisingly big variety of things to do.
Although must people just come on quick tours to summit the volcano and see a few craters, the volcano is enormous and it offers an amazing variety of landscapes – from volcanic desert to lush forests. Those looking to get outdoors can go hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, and skiing and snowboarding (in winter, of course). There's also good rock climbing and cave systems to explore.
Wine lovers have the added treat of getting to sample unique, mineral-heavy wines at the more than 100 vineyards that line the volcano's slopes, many of them with fantastic views.
Here's our guide to visiting Mount Etna.
11. Aeolian islands
The island of Stromboli. Photo: Carsten Steger, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
The Aeolian islands are a seven-island archipelago just off the coast of Milazzo in Sicily’s north.
Here you'll find sapphire-blue waters, rocky beaches, pristine nature, ample opportunity for hiking, great boat trips, and a slice of Sicily that really looks like nowhere else. Because the main islands are close together, you can easily spend a few days island-hopping between them.
The island of Stromboli is great if you’re keen on a volcanic adventure (I mean that quite literally) and hikinh, Salina is ideal if you’re looking for relaxation, Panarea offers a glitzy atmosphere and is a favorite among celebrities, and Alicudi is a place to truly "get away from it all".
Some of the islands are car free and blissfully untouristed while others, like Lipari, are actually rather heavily developed.
Read more about the islands in our guide to the Aeolian islands.
12. Gole dell’Alcantara (Alcantara Gorges)
The Alcantare gorge. Photo: Eleassar, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commo
This impressive canyon was carved over centuries by the Alcantara River as it coursed through basalt rocks. If you’re seeking an adrenaline rush, this is the place to get it: you can body raft along the cold waters of the river.
Whether you choose to raft the river or not, you can also walk 3 kilometers into the gorge (it’s 6 km in total, but the last three are impassible). If you’re brave enough, take a dip! The water barely reaches 45° F, so be prepared for a chill.
13. Siracusa & Ortigia
Piazza Duomo, Ortigia's main square. Photo: Dario Giannobile, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ortigia and its beach
The coast near to Syracuse
Siracusa (Syracuse) was the most important city of Magna Graecia, Greece's network of colonies that existed throughout southern Italy during Antiquity, and was once home to that most famous of ancient scientists and inventors, Archimedes! Today, it's a beautiful seaside Baroque jewel with well-preserved Greek ruins.
When visiting, you’ll discover that there are two Syracuses: the mainland, where the Greek soul persists, and the small island of Ortigia, where the Baroque explodes and the modern Sicilian soul pulses all around you.
Near to other lovely cities like Ragusa and Noto, this part of Southeastern Sicily also has lots of good sandy beaches.
Have a look at our guide to Siracusa for advice on visiting.
14. Noto
Noto's Cathedral
Although it is a splendid Baroque jewel - perhaps the best example of late Baroque style in all of the Val di Noto - and a popular stop for tourists, Noto is still a sleepy, small city that retains its authenticitiy.
It's also known as the Garden of Stone due to its many churches, noble palaces, flamboyant Baroque balconies, and bell towers. At sunset, the city works a special type of magic, coloring all its buildings gold.
You only need a few hours to visit, but it also makes for a pleasant base from which to explore nearby cities like Ragusa, Syracuse, and Modica.
For more info, see our guide to Noto.
15. Ragusa (and Scicli & Modica)
Ragusa as night falls
Modica. Photo: Ludvig14, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Scicli. Photo: trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
In the lovely Val di Noto, like Syracuse and Noto which I've just mentioned, Ragusa is another gorgeous Baroque city. Split into two separate cores - Ragusa and Ragusa Ibla (the old town), this is a must-visit for anyone passing through Southeastern Sicily.
Within a 30-minute drive of the city you can also reach the lovel Baroque towns of Modica and Scicli as well as the splendid Donnagugata Castle. Although the city is inland, it's just a quick drive to the coast, and the beaches here are among the best in Sicily.
Fans of the book and TV series “Inspector Montalbano” will particularly enjoy this area as much of the series was filmed in and around these towns.
We have guides to Ragusa, Modica, and Scicli if you'd like to learn more.
16. Villa Romana del Casale
A mosaic floor at Villa Romana del Casale. Photo: bradhostetler, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Villa Romana del Casale is a UNESCO-listed ancient Roman villa in the town of Piazza Armerina, located in the hills of inland Sicily. It houses a collection of some of the best-preserved Roman mosaics in the entire world.
The villa's multicolored mosaic floors extend for over 3,500 square meters, containing famous pieces like the “Bikini Girls” and the huge “Grande Caccia” scene.
If you're driving between Eastern Sicily and Agrigento/Valley of the Temples (or vice versa) Piazza Armerina is only a slight detour. It's also easy to combine with a visit to nearby Caltagirone.
17. Caltagirone
Ceramic tiles lining the steps of the Santa Maria del Monte staircase in Caltagirone
The town of Caltagirone is well-known for its ceramics, a millennia-long tradition in this area. You can see artisans at work and majolica artwork all around the city – especially the 142-step staircase rising from Piazza del Municipio to the church of Santa Maria del Monte. Every step is ceramic-inlaid!
You can also take a lesson in one of the many workshops around the city and have your art sent home.
18. Marzamemi & Vendicari Reserve
Fishing boats in Marzamemi's marina
The remains of the tonnara (tuna fishery/factory) inside the Vendicari reserve
Trattoria la Cialoma in Marzamemi's main square
In a lovely little corner of the southeast near to Noto, you have the Vendicari Nature Reserve, home to some of Sicily's most pristine beaches, and the charming fishing village of Marzamemi, home to an iconic and very picturesque piazza that is surrounded by a Prince’s palace, a former tonnara (tuna processing plant), two tiny churches, and lots of restaurant and cafes.
19. Lampedusa
Spiaggia dei Conigli on Lampedusa
Cala Tabaccara bay. Photo: Luca Siragusa, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Actually closer to Tunisia than mainland Sicily, Lampedusa is one of three islands that comprise the Pelagie archipelago (the other two are Linosa and Lampione).
It is the largest of the three islands and an absolute slice of paradise. It is a delightful place to explore by boat, on foot, or by bike. Of course, the main activity to engage in is swimming, and you'll probably find yourself never wanting to do anything else!
Boat trips to Cala Tabaccara glide over impossibly crystaline waters, you can diveat Cala Pulcino, or follow the path to the most scenic beach in the whole of Sicily, Spiaggia dei Conigli.
Because the islands are remote, your only access is via an overnight ferry from Porto Empedcole (near to Agrigento) or via flight from Catania or Palermo.
How to get around
Driving
In Sicily, renting a car is always the best choice, especially if you’re planning a trip across the whole island. While the public transportation system here is inexpensive, it can be unreliable, slow, and sometimes completely absent from the places you want to go.
Unfortunately, unlike other parts of Italy, Sicily has a very poor train network, and while there’s a decent bus system, it just doesn’t cover everywhere, and you will lose a lot of time that could be better spent exploring the island.
So, having a car will give you the flexibility to get out all over Sicily and to see as much of it as possible in the limited amount of time you have.
There are three main highways in Sicily: the A18 runs along the eastern coast and connects Messina, Catania, Syracuse, and all the destinations between. The A19 connects Catania and Palermo, cutting through the center of the island. The A20 runs along the north coast between Messina and Palermo.
Apart from the highways, which make travel between major destinations quick and hassle free, there is always a state road connecting the bigger cities to the smaller towns in any given area.
If it’s your first time road-tripping in Sicily, I understand you might be a bit worried about traffic, crazy driving styles, and poor road conditions. Well, I have good news: although the traffic can be quite bad, especially in the cities, the driving style is not as lawless or stressful as you might expect, and the roads are generally in pretty good condition. It might not be what you’re used to, but it’s not bad.
Renting a car
Palermo, Catania, and Trapani’s airports all have multiple car rental companies, with a mix of the big international ones and local agencies. You can also find rental agencies at the train stations in Palermo and Catania.
You'll also find rental agencies in most decent-sized cities and smaller towns that are popular with tourists. All the same, for best selection you'd do well to pick up your rent in one of the main cities.
The average rental price for a compact car is about €35 per day, but rates can be significantly higher too - up to €100 during peak summer season if you don't book in advance. In shoulder season and off season, you can often find a rental for under 20 euros per day. Automatics are available, but know that most cars are manual, and you will pay more for an automatic.
To check prices and book, I always recommend using DiscoverCars. It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which frequently have much better pricing.
Public tranpsort
Public transit in Sicily can be challenging - it doesn’t cover everywhere, journey times are slow, and buses (the most common option) are often delayed. Sometimes, a bus or train that you’re waiting on will just not show up at all. This isn’t ideal for anyone, but especially not for visitors with a limited amount of time who are following a potentially tight itinerary.
In general, the coastline is served better than inland areas, and connections between big cities are the most frequent and reliable. Keep in mind that countryside locations, nature reserves, and most remote beaches are not served at all by public transport.
As mentioned above, renting a car is a much better option. If you still intend to get around by public transport, be sure to plan ahead and compare routes and timetables in advance to make sure they line up correctly. And no matter what, bring your patience...
Train travel
Train routes cover a small part of the island, mainly servicing the east coast between Messina and Siracusa, and the northern coast between Messina and Palermo. While there are some other train routes, they are not sensible options, and most of Sicily is not covered at all.
Even for the areas mentioned above, train service is infrequent and is rarely convenient, as it usually takes longer than a direct bus.
A one-way ticket costs about € 5-10 for local travel and € 15-20 for longer distances. Trenitalia operates all regular trains, while the railway circling Mount Etna is run by Ferrovia Circumetnea. Always remember to validate your train ticket before departure.
Bus travel
Buses are the most viable option for public transportation in Sicily as they are more comprehensive and reliable than the train, and are also cheaper. The bus system in Sicily is made up of many different companies who operate different routes and cover different parts of the island. Between them all, just about everywhere in Sicily is served by bus.
The main destinations (big cities, major points of interest, touristic towns, etc.) are well connected with each other by bus and you’ll usually find multiple buses per day, starting in the early morning and running into the late evening.
There is also regular bus service connecting big cities with the nearby smaller cities, towns, and major points of interest. There are generally multiple departures per day. *Note that on Sundays and holidays the service may be reduced or cancelled.
Sais, Interbus, and AST are three larger companies, but there are many more.
Plan to budget an average of € 3-8 for one-way tickets on short-distance routes, and € 15-20 for longer journeys. You can buy tickets in advance online, at the ticket vendor inside most stations station, or from tabaccherie (technically tobacco shops, but they sell much more than just that). If catching the bus in a smaller town, you can buy your ticket directly on board.
Bus stations in Sicily don’t have luggage storage, but the train stations do, and they are normally very close to one another.
Ferries & Hydrofoils
Hydrofoils (aliscafi - passengers only) and ferries (traghetti - allowig cars) run regularly throughout the year, connecting Sicily to its offshore islands. You can reach the Aeolian Islands from Messina and Milazzo; the Egadi Islands from Trapani and Marsala; Ustica from Palermo; and the Pelagic Islands from Porto Empedocle (near Agrigento).
In winter, the service can be affected by adverse sea conditions, and its not uncommon for a crossing to be cancelled.
In Summer buy tickets in advance as they do sometimes sell out. Connections to the islands are pretty frequent (at least daily), and for the main ones, there are usually multiple departures per day. Even Alicudi, a more remote island, has two crossing per day.
The journeys out to the islands take between 45 minutes and 3 hours, depending on which island you’re going to. One-way tickets usually cost €20-50.
Taxis and private transfers
Taxis are an expensive but convenient option for getting around within a city or to very close by destinations. They are available in airports, major cities, and tourist towns, but are not especially common in smaller or more remote locations.
In major cities, you can hail a taxi on the street, call one by phone, book online, or from your phone via the WeTaxi app.
For most trips taxis will use the meter, but you can often negotiate the fare when traveling between the airports and your destination. Near the railway stations in Palermo and Catania you might see unofficial taxis offering flat rates to take you to the airport. These are not registered or licensed, so you should refuse their offer and rely on an official taxi.
There is also uber in Palermo and Catania.
Anywhere in Sicily, you can also book an NCC (noleggio con conducente - a driver service), but you need to arrange it in advance.
Weather & when to visit
Although Sicily is a year-round destination due to its pleasant Mediterranean climate, the best time to visit is from April to early June (spring and early summer), and late September through October (late summer through early-to-mid Fall).
During both of these periods, the temperatures hover between 68-80°F, the days are long and sunny, the skies are super blue, and the sea is warm and inviting, while the beaches are uncrowded.
Visiting Sicily during the spring and late summer/early fall allows you to make the most of your trip: you can enjoy cities and archaeological sites without the heat stifling you, go for hikes or swims under pleasant sunny skies, and tour the entire island with a fraction of the crowds that you’ll find during the summer.
Since visitors, especially international ones are mostly absent during these periods, you can count on just about everything being more affordable, from car rentals to accommodation, and tours to flights.
There are also some interesting festivals in these periods. The Greek Theater Festival in Syracuse brings classical plays to the city’s ancient theater. The Taormina Film Fest screens movies in its marvelous Greco-Roman amphitheater. And the Fall sagre (food festival) celebratea the harvest season.
Visiting in Spring
Starting in March, the weather begins to warm up. Wildflowers explode all over Sicily, the countryside is in full bloom, and the first beachgoers venture out to the beach (although the water is still… bracing!). The temperatures are ideal for an active trip, so you can enjoy outdoor activities such as hiking and biking without the summer heat.
If your schedule is completely flexible, it’s well worth planning a trip that overlaps with the Easter celebrations, which are a lot of fun and a fantastic cultural experience.
April is the ideal month to explore Sicily's ancient temples and archaeological sites, as the weather will be pleasantly warm but not yet hot, and there will be absolutely no crowds.
Visiting in Summer
If you want to visit Sicily in the summer, I would suggest coming in June. This is a great time to be in Sicily, as the temperatures are still fairly moderate, the sea is warm and inviting but the beaches are still quiet, and the high season has not fully begun yet, meaning better prices and more options for everything.
July and August are the hottest months and the heat really can be unbearable, with temperatures regularly exceeding 100°F. If you plan to get out into nature or want to visit the cities and archaeological sites, you will be doing so under pretty intense sun and heat. But you can always cool off with a granita!
From July until the middle of September, the beaches are packed, the cities are crowded, and you may have to wait in line to enter some key attractions. Accommodation prices are generally higher and you need to book just about everything well in advance to ensure availability.
On the positive side, the island’s lively nightlife is at its best during this period, with vacationers and islanders alike ready to party.
The inland portion of Sicily is generally cooler, and if you want to escape the crowds, you can either head inland or visit less well-known parts of the coast (of which there are many).
Visiting in Fall
The Fall months offer milder, but still warm weather and plenty of sunshine. In early fall, Sicily still retains its summer feeling, but the crowds thin out and the prices drop. There’s very little rainfall at this time and the sea is still warm enough for swimming.
The harvest season takes place in the fall (especially grape and olive picking), so this is an excellent time to visit wineries and taste local wines, and there are also many sagre (food festivals linked to the harvest season) in the villages, which are interesting and a lot of fun.
Early fall is the best season for walking in the Madonie and Nebrodi mountains and hiking on Mount Etna.
Visiting in Winter
During winter, the temperatures are generally still agreeable, with daytime temps rarely dropping lower than 50°F. There is some rainfall, but it’s not constant and is unlikely to ruin a trip.
This is the perfect time if you’re looking for a quieter getaway, as you'll have the island to yourself. Along with that, prices for everything are at their lowest, making a winter trip very affordable. Of course, as this is the low season, some touristic businesses and services may shut down, especially in areas where tourism is the economic driver.
Even so, you can still enjoy churches, palaces, museums, and archaeological sites. And if you’re interested in winter sports, you’ll love the opportunity to ski or snowboard on the slopes of an active volcano, while steam rises from the summit!
Where to stay - best bases
Palermo
Palermo is the capital and largest city in Sicily, sitting on the far western edge of the island. It’s a perfect starting point for a Sicily trip, and with its 700,000 residents, is a true metropolis teeming with life.
There's a lot to do in the city itself, but it’s also close to a number of other towns and attractions that are worth checking out. You can easily do day trips to the coastal town of Cefalù, nearby beaches like Mondello and San Vito Lo Capo, the noble villas in Bagheria, and the Norman cathedral in Monreale. Trapani is just 90 minutes away by car, and you can also visit Erice and the salt pans along the coast.
With 4 or 5 days, you could visit quite a lot in the area around Palermo and Trapani.
If the idea of staying in a big city sounds too hectic for you, consider Mondello, which is essentially Palermo's beach, as an alternative.
Agrigento
In Agrigento, a city of about 60,000 people on the southern coast of Sicily, there is the majestic Valley of the Temples, which hosts the best preserved Greek temples in the world outside of Greece.
Due to its central location (from an east-west perspective) it is also the ideal place to break up journeys going between Eastern and Western Sicily.
There’s not a ton to keep you in Agrigento apart from the archaeological site, but if you’re not pressed for time, it’s a good base from which to set out on a day trip to the lovely island of Lampedusa, reachable via boat from the nearby coastal town of Porto Empedocle.
You can also check out a contemporary art district in the town of Favara, browse Sicily’s most important archaeological museum in Gela, and let yourself be surprised by the red stone of the town of Sciacca, one of the most underrated destinations on the Mediterranean coast.
Consider staying here for about 2-3 days.
Noto or Siracusa
Being more or less halfway between Ragusa and Siracusa, Noto is your best choice to explore Sicily’s southeast. It is considered the brightest jewel of Sicilian Baroque architecture.
But if you prefer the vitality of a busier city, then Siracusa would be your ideal base.
If you’ve got the time, I would suggest staying in this area for about 5 days (regardless of which city you choose), so that you can explore in depth. Siracusa and Noto are the star attractions, but you’ll also find the village of Marzamemi, the lovely town of Ragusa, and other nearby Baroque towns like Scicli and Modica. The beaches are also excellent.
Catania
Catania, known as the Black City for its peculiarly dark buildings built out of volcanic stone, is a city full of spirit.
It's also much less expensive and more authentic than nearby Taormina, so I think makes a better base. You can still visit Taormina as a day trip, of course.
When staying in Catania, you can also easily get out to the impressive Riviera dei Ciclopi, a stretch of coast with lots of volcanic rock, where you can go swimming in a sea filled with myths from ancient times. And Mount Etna is always right nearby.
Stay for at least a few days.
Trapani
You'll rarely see Trapani listed as a place to choose as your base, but I think that's just because foreigners don't really know about it!
Conveniently located near to Western Sicily's major highlights (and just 90 minutes from Palermo), Trapani is also surrounded by great beaches and the Aegadian islands are just 30 minutes away by hydrofoil. And with a population of 70,000 people, it's large enough to have lots of restaurants, supermarkets, and everything else you could need for an extended stay.
Accommodation prices are extremely reasonable and the city also has an international airport.
Sicily example itineraries
Here are a couple of quick ideas for itineraries around Sicily. For more detailed plans, see our 7-day Sicily itinerary and 10-day Sicily itinerary.
5-day itinerary - Catania, Etna, Palermo and the west coast
If you’re pressed for time but want to make the most of your trip to Sicily, in 5 days you can discover the energy of the island’s two main cities, the noble Palermo and the black Catania, and squeeze in a couple of quick day trips as well.
On the journey between the two cities, you’ll discover the magnificence of Mount Etna, the Roman mosaics in Piazza Armerina, the medieval town of Erice, and the spectacular salt pans between Trapani and Marsala, which light up with a thousand colors at sunset.
Plan for three days in Catania, with day trips to Etna and the Roman Mosaics on two of them. Then base yourself in Palermo for 2 days, visiting Erice, Trapani, and Marsala on one of them.
Day 1 - Catania
Day 2 - Catania : day trip for to Mount Etna for some hiking
Day 3 - Catania - day trip to see the Roman mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale in Piazza Armerina
Day 4 - Palermo
Day 5 - Palermo: day trip to Erice, Trapani, and Marsala
7-day itinerary - east and west coast highlights
Begin in Palermo, which mixes old world charm with frenetic energy. The city is lovely and it’s a good base from where to explore Monreale's Norman cathedral and San Vito lo Capo, renowned for its Caribbean-like sea.
After two days in Palermo, head west and spend a day visiting Erice, Marsala, and the salt pans. On your fourth day, continue on to Agrigento and visit the magnificent Valley of the Temples.
From Agrigento, head east, stopping in Ragusa to discover this old city built in a ravine. On the same day, plan to visit Noto and take a deep dive into this golden Baroque city.
Your sixth day should be dedicated to exploring Siracusa, and the next to relaxing and unwinding in Taormina.
Finally, end your trip by climbing Mount Etna, and relaxing in elegant Taormina (or in Catania instead!).
Day 1 - Palermo
Day 2 - Palermo: day trip to Monreale and San Vito lo Capo
Day 3 - Palermo to Agrigento, stopping in Erice, Marsala, and maybe Trapani
Day 4 - Agrigento - visit the Valley of the Temples and Scala dei Turchi
Day 5 - Ragusa and Noto (overnight in whichever you prefer)
Day 6 - Siracusa
Day 7 - Mount Etna and Taormina (or Mount Etna and Catania)
14-day itinerary - all the island
If you have two full weeks in Sicily, you can comfortably see all of the island’s highlights and standout attractions, and then get a bit off the beaten path to discover places that most travelers don’t make it to.
You will discover the noble splendor of Palermo and the beautiful baroque cities of the east coast - Catania, Syracuse, Noto, and Ragusa. There will be time for some relaxation in Taormina, hiking on Mount Etna, and a bit of art and culture learning about the ceramics of Caltagirone and the mosaics of Piazza Armerina.
For beaches, you can make your way to the wild coast around Noto, visit the small fishing village of Marzamemi, and get a taste for Sicily’s Caribbean-like beaches around Trapani.
You'll also be able to visit the world's best-preserved temples in Agrigento, tour the archaeological areas of Segesta, and visit the coastal town of Sciacca to see its traditional coral processing.
You’ll even have time to hop on a ferry and enjoy a full day on the island of Favignana. Not bad for two weeks, right?
Day 1 - Catania
Day 2 - Catania: day trip to Riviera dei Ciclopi and Taormina
Day 3 - Catania: day trip to Mount Etna
Day 4 - Catania: day trip to the towns of Caltagirone and Piazza Amerina
Day 5 - Syracuse & the island of Ortigia
Day 5 - Syracuse: day trip to Vendicari, Marzamemi, and Noto
Day 7 - Syracuse: day trip to Ragusa and Modica
Day 8 - Agrigento - visit the Valley of the Temples
Day 9 - Agrigento to Trapani: visiting Sciacca, Selinunte, and Marsala on the way
Day 10 - Trapani: day trip to the island of Favignana
Day 11 - Trapani: day trip to the Zingaro nature reserve, San Vito lo Capo, and Segesta
Day 12 - Palermo
Day 13 - Palermo - day trip to Cefalù
Day 14 - Palermo
More Sicily travel info
For more advice on planning your trip to Sicily, check out some of our other guides and itineraries!
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