A Local’s Guide to Visiting Sorrento, Italy
Nestled atop the cliffs of the northern Sorrentine Peninsula, the city’s namesake, Sorrento is one of the principal gateway’s to the famed Amalfi Coast, and it’s one of those rare gorgeous places where reality actually lives up to the expectations set by movies, and more often nowadays, social media.
Sorrento, and all of the nearby Amalfi Coast have become global tourist hotspots in the last few decades, but with the exception of the hordes of tourists that you’ll find here during the summer months, the city and greater area still look much like they did 50 years ago, retaining their stately charm.
While the actual city of Sorrento is rather small and there isn’t tons to do here when compared with larger cities like Naples or Salerno, the town still serves up some of the region’s best food, offers an excellent selection of accommodations, has a few very nice sights, and has great connections with the towns of the Amalfi Coast.
All of that makes Sorrento a great place to use as your base while traveling around the region. After a long day of sightseeing, it’s always a pleasure to come back here and take an evening stroll while enjoying the beautiful views of the Bay of Naples and stopping in somewhere to sip on local limoncello or grab a bite to eat.
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Table of Contents
Why visit?
Where is Sorrento?
How to get here
Best time to visit
How long to spend
Where to stay
What to see and do
Restaurants & dining
Guided Tours of the Amalfi Coast
If you’d like to see the Amalfi Coast through the eyes of a local, reach out to Marco, our favorite local driver-guide.
Marco is born and raised in Sorrento, and he’s spent his entire life on the Amalfi Coast. For over 20 years, he’s welcomed visitors to his home region, showing them both the highlights and hidden gems of this stunning peninsula.
If you’re looking for a driver and guide for a day or two of touring the coast, Marco is your man!
Why visit
In the southern region of Campania where Sorrento is located, there is a distinct divide between the urban life found in places like Naples and Caserta, and the slower rural life that you’ll see in a mountain town like Avellino or Moiano. For the most part, you have one or the other here: busy and urban, or rural, often very rural. There aren’t many places that offer a comfortable middle ground between the two, but Sorrento is one of them.
Life here moves slowly, like in most of the Amalfi Coast and in the more rural areas of southern Italy in general, and it can be a real change from other parts of the country. Apart from daytripping tourists, there are no people running around crazily, minimal haggling, and no major traffic jams. Sorrento can feel a bit like an island in that it is relaxed and peaceful, but with that can come feelings of isolation, especially if you don’t know where to go in town.
I find this quite appealing, and think that Sorrento is a great place to visit and stay for a few days if you like the idea of somewhere that has the tranquility of a small town but the convenience and accessibility of a larger city.
Speaking of accessibility, Sorrento is well connected to Naples by train, it’s one of the first stops on the way to the Amalfi Coast, and it has good connections (including public transportation - the bus) with the towns of the coast. This makes it a great hub from which to explore the wider area.
The city also makes a name for itself nowadays with its excellent wine, olives, and above all else, the huge lemons that they use to make anything from limoncello to lemon sorbet and even lemon cream pasta. These are some must-try dishes while visiting.
Where is Sorrento?
Sorrento is located on the southwestern coast of Italy in the western part of the Campania region. It lies on the southern edge of the province of Naples, and is 17 miles south of the city of the same name (Naples) and 165 miles south of Rome, Italy’s capital.
This scenic city is backed by the soaring mountains of the Sorrentine peninsula, while the bay of Naples opens up in front of it. You’ll never have to choose between the sea or the mountains here because Sorrento has both, and it has them in abundance.
Sorrento is often thought of as the gateway to the famed Amalfi Coast, and it’s just a short distance from towns like Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. It also sits in an area full of world-famous historical and archeological sites, such as Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Pasetum, and is also nearby to natural wonders like Mount Vesuvius and the islands of Capri, Procida, and Ischia.
While there are a few big urban centers in its surroundings (places like Salerno, Naples, and Benevento), most of Sorrento’s surroundings are quite rural and home to their fair share of farms and forests. The only industrial centers are located around Naples, so the vast majority of Campania is a breath of fresh air.
How to get here
Unless you’re already in southern Italy, the most common starting point from which to reach Sorrento is Rome, Italy’s capital city. While there are buses and flights, the most common, comfortable, and cost effective way to get here is by train.
Sorrento is not connected directly with Rome, so to get here, you’ll first have to reach Naples, and will then transfer on to Sorrento.
To do that, I would highly suggest taking one of the high-speed trains to Naples that are offered by TrenItalia or ItaloTreno, Italy’s two major rail companies. Both companies have frequent daily connections between Rome and Naples, with multiple trains traveling between the two cities every hour all throughout the day. The journey typically takes around 1.5 hours and will cost from 20 to 30 euros.
In Rome, you’ll want to head to the city’s central Roma Termini station, and you’ll arrive into the Napoli Central station.
On arrival to Naples, you can then continue on to Sorrento by transferring to a local Circumvesuviana train. The journey from Naples to Sorrento takes about an hour, the tickets cost about 4 euros per person, and there are multiple trains per hour.
Sorrento is the last stop on the line, so you can just settle in for the journey.
How long to stay
If you want to get the most out of your stay in Sorrento, I would recommend staying there for about three to four days. This will give you enough time to gain an appreciation for the city itself while still having ample opportunity to head off into the surrounding areas on day trips.
As I mentioned above, Sorrento is fairly short on major sights, but it’s well connected with other areas and it’s a very pleasant town to return to in the evenings.
For day trips, all within 45 minutes of Sorrento you have Mt. Vesuvius, Pompeii, the Amalfi Coast, and Naples (and that’s without mentioning the islands, many of which have ferry service direct from Sorrento’s port!).
Here’s what I’d recommend for a 4-day stay:
Day 1
On your first day you should stay within Sorrento and get acquainted with your home base for the next few days. Check out the local museums, churches, and of course the food scene (I’ll get into specific recommendations later).
Day 2
Your second day should be spent exploring a bit outside of the city, perhaps with a foray along the Sorrentine Coast, and a visit to one of the famous archaeological sites like Pompeii or Herculaneum.
For pleasant towns on this stretch of coastline, a trip to nearby Vico Equense, which is just a couple of short stops away on the Circumvesuviana train, makes for a great choice.
Since it’s along the train line and is in the direction heading back toward Naples, you can also easily combine a tour of the town with a visit to Pompeii or Herculaneum, which can both be reached by traveling a bit further north on the train.
Day 3
Now it’s time for your first real day trip. For that, I would recommend renting a car or hiring a driver and exploring as much of the Amalfi Coast as possible. This is your chance to visit famous towns like Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, and to catch the views and sights that make this area so famous.
Day 4
On your final day, I’ll suggest two options to choose from: a full-day visit to Naples, or a combined tour of Mount Vesuvius, a winery, and a visit to whichever of the archaeological sights (Pompeii or Herculaneum) you didn’t already see on day 2.
Where to stay
Photo: User:Gizm07, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
With only 16,000 inhabitants, Sorrento is a pretty small town, so where you stay in the city doesn’t really make a big difference. Everywhere will be close by and walkable, so the choice here is more between accommodation options than areas of town.
Here are some of the places I’d recommend:
Surreo Luxury Bed and Breakfast
If you want to feel more like a resident than a tourist, this B&B would be perfect for you. They offer spacious apartments that are fully furnished and immaculately decorated with modern style and simplicity. They even offer non-smoking rooms which is not as common as you might think in this area of Italy.
Rooms will cost around 280 Euros a night. You can also request a shuttle to and from the airport in Naples at extra cost.
Agora Apartments
Located just outside the town center, this accommodation will let you feel like you are living in an apartment in rural Italy without having to worry about taking care of it. Surrounded by trees and with possible water views (depending on the room you get), this place is great for people who want to be close to the city center but want to be far away enough to relax.
Apartments go from around 360 to 470 a night. They are cleaned daily and you can request a car service to and from the Naples airport.
Imperial Hotel Tramontano
Located right on the water, this hotel complex offers you a prime location with the style that you would expect from a hotel on the Amalfi Coast. With bathrooms covered in local tile designs and views of Mount Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples, this is a great place for those who want to be comfortable with local authenticity.
The average room for two will run you about 550 Euros a night with breakfast included and access to an outside pool.
Grand Hotel Ambasciatori
The king of all hotels in the area, this is by far the most expensive accommodation in Sorrento, but it is also unquestionably the most luxurious, with the best location and incredible service. Located right above the shore, the building looks like it was carved out of the seaside rocks.
The rooms are massive, have stunning views, and brightly colored local decorations. There is also private beach access, a spa, a workout room, and access to an outside lounge.
The prices range from about 1,000 euros per night to as much as 2,000 depending on the room you choose. If money is not a concern, this is an amazing place to stay.
Things to see & do
Sorrento is pretty small, so there aren’t a ton of premier sights within the town’s limits. Even so, there are a few very nice things to see and do here, so I’ve given a quick overview of those below:
1. Villa Comunale
This green area is the city’s main seafront, and it guides you along the coastline while enjoying the stunning view of the Gulf of Naples. Picture it as a quiet, romantic stroll along one of the most iconic views in the area. A nice walk along the Villa Comunale is perfect after lunch or dinner to help you digest some of the delicious seafood that you’ve just eaten.
It’s particularly beautiful during sunset and can be very romantic. There’s no cost to enter and it’s open at all hours.
2. Cloister of San Francesco
This hidden oasis is right across the street from the Villa Comunale, so you’re certain to pass by, but might not notice the church unless you know to look for it!
In many places in Italy, but especially the south, the courtyard of cloisters have become a place for local people to escape and find some peace and quiet, and this one is no exception.
When you walk into the courtyard, you feel like you’ve been transported back to the 14th century, with its beautiful arabesque arches and vines that adorn the walls. The place gives off this mysterious, mystic, and yet calming atmosphere, and it’s one of the most unique sites that you’ll come across in the area.
Entrance is free and it is open from 7:00am to 7:00pm.
Photo: Berthold Werner, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. The Correale di Terranova Museum
This is probably the most comprehensive museum that covers a variety of history from the region. Across its three floors and 24 rooms, there are everything from paintings and local ceramics to paper processing (with a technique that was among the first in Europe) and books that have been untouched for hundreds of years.
Cost of entry is 8 Euros and the times of operation vary a lot depending on when you go so it is best to check the museum’s website before you plan of going.
4. Piazza Tasso/Corso Italia
You want to get something quick to eat? You want to do a little shopping? You want to take a look at some local crafts and woodworking? You want a nice glass of wine? Piazza Tasso and Corso Italia is the place to be.
Located in the heart of Sorrento, it is the lifeblood of the city’s nightlife and ‘commercial’ area. Even if you just want to pass by to give it a look, it is a nice place to see where the locals go to hang out.
Photo: Berthold Werner, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
5. Vallone dei Mulini
A once thriving mill, this abandoned structure is situated in a kind of cave and Vally in the middle of the city. For people who love to see abandoned buildings that have been overtaken by nature in the middle of a city, its worth to pass by this place.
Unfortunately you can’t go down into the ruins but it is free to view it from above.
Photo: Mentnafunangann, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Marina Grande
Located right on top of the water, this area of the city is the best place to grab a drink or snack and watch as the fishermen come back to port for the evening.
A beautiful spot to catch sunsets and to relax, this is one of my favorite places in the city to soak up Sorrento life.
Photo: Davidhermanns, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Duomo di Sorrento
Through various renovations and at least one complete transfer to a different location, the Duomo of Sorrento has existed for over a thousand years. Now with a renovated facade that dates back to the 19th century, this church still holds a peaceful aura that you can only find in old churches.
Great for a little look around to see some of the old artwork and ceramics, some of which are 300 years old, inside and outside the church.
8. Marina Piccola/the port:
For those looking to get out of the city to go around to nearby islands, this is the port you need to familiarize yourself with. Although there are some cute bars and restaurants in the area, this zone is mainly used as the main area where ferries stop.
Distances can be a bit deceiving here so make sure you know how far away it is from where you’re staying so you don’t miss your ferry.
9. The town’s beaches
It wouldn’t be a trip to the Sorrento if you didn’t get to enjoy at least one beach. Unfortunately, many of the beaches in the area are private, but the costs are relatively low, so you’re unlikely to be priced out.
Puolo beach is a lovely slice of land that is divided into private and public parts. This is one of my favorite beaches but it is unfortunately only accessible by car, taxi or scooter. You could technically walk from Sorrento to there but it is a grueling hour walk around hills and not very safe roads so I wouldn’t recommend.
Marina Piccola beach has a series of private sections where you must pay around 12 Euros to rent a lounge chair and an umbrella for the day. It is the most convenient place in town as it’s right under the Villa Comunale and you don’t need to take any kind of transportation to get there.
Bagni Regina Giovanna beaches are a series of rocky beaches hidden in little coves along the coast. They have beautiful water and it feels like you’re in a movie set between the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast. There are a few free spots and the area is accessible with the route A bus ( get off at the Capo di Sorrento stop). I highly recommend this one.
Kayakers and swimmers in Bagni Regina Giovanna
10. Guided walking and limoncello tours
Organized by M.A. Trekking&More, this tour takes you through Sorrento and the area around it while a guide delves into the thousands of years of history of the region. Along the various stops, you will get the opportunity to taste local delicacies like varieties of limoncello and other local pastries.
This is in a small group setting with a maximum of 10 people and is best for travelers who want a more in-depth tour of the area with the opportunity to taste excellent limoncello along the way.
Day trips from Sorrento
1. Pompeii & Herculaneum
Whether you decide to dedicate a whole day trip to Vesuvius and the towns it destroyed 2,000 years ago, or if you want to break it up on different days, no trip to the Campania region is complete without a visit to one of the two famous Greek and Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum.
I would recommend picking one of the two to visit because visiting both in a day would be way too much and take an awful amount of time.
Pompeii is of course the more famous of the two and is significantly larger than Herculaneum. It is quite an experience to be able to walk through the ruins of such a large ancient city and exploring the homes of those who lived there.
I personally prefer Herculaneum, however. It is much better persevered than Pompeii with more intact frescos and artifacts and due to its size, you can see the whole city in just one visit.
Fares for a complete Pompeii ticket will run you 22 Euros while tickets for Herculaneum go for 13 Euros. You can get to both places by taking the Circumvesuviana in Sorrento.
If you’re interested in a tour of either site, Salerno-based guide Roberto is a local guide who is also an archaeologist.
2. Mt. Vesuvius
While many tourists and travelers admire the mighty Mt. Vesuvius from afar, it is a completely different experience to see it up close and personal. Although reaching it from Salerno can be a bit of a trip in itself, it is absolutely worth it to be able to reach the top of a volcano that overlooks the Mediterranean Sea.
To get there in the most efficient way, you need to take the Circumvesuviana to the Ercolano Scavi stop and outside the station there will be busses that can take you to the summit of Vesuvius. You can also take a taxi from the stop but they run a bit expensive and can try to scam you.
3. The Amalfi Coast
Sorrento is just the beginning go the Amalfi Coast but if you want to see the entire area in all of it’s glory, I highly recommend taking one day to stop by some of the area’s most beautiful towns.
My favorite town on the Amalfi coast would be Vietri Sul Mare, a stunning and often overlooked town known for it’s ceramics, seafood and gorgeous view of the rest of the peninsula.
Other towns that are worth a visit include Amalfi, Ravello and Atrani. For a full list of recommendations, take a look at our other guide that covers the entire Amalfi Coast.
If you have limited time (or just want to explore with a local) driver-guide Marco runs really good full-day driving tours of the coast.
4. Paestum
Located about an hour and a half south of Sorrento, the archeological site of Paestum is one of my favorite places in all of Campania. The site contains a series of ancient Greek temples that make you feel like you stepped into a portal that brought you to Athens. The south of Italy was part of grater Greece aka Magna Grecia and this site is possibly one of the best preserved, if not the best preserved, part of that time period in Italy.
From March to November the ticket price is 15 Euros and prices are reduced for people between the ages of 18 to 25 to only 2 Euros. The tickets are valid for both the museum and the archeological park.
To get to Paestum you have to take the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii, take a short walk to the regional train station and hop on a train that stops in Salerno then transfer to Paestum. It sounds like a lot but it is much easier than it looks.
When you get to Paestum, the train station takes you just outside the archeological park and is also located a 15 minute walk from the beach if you want to take a dip after the museum.
5. Naples
The city with a million faces and an undeserved mixed reputation, Naples is the heart of the South and of the Campania region. Often overlooked for it’s misleading reputation as a dangerous city, Naples is a place filled with thousands of years of history, countless museums, the birthplace of pizza, dozens of local varieties of pasta, stunning art scene and so much more.
Is the city a little gritty and rough around the edges? Yes, but don’t let that rob you from having an amazing experience there.
Naples is located an hour train ride north of Sorrento if you take the Circumvesuviana. Tickets for the train should be around 3.60 Euros or if you want to take the Campania express, which only cuts the travel time by 15 minutes, you can pay 15 Euros but it’s not with the extra money.
Restaurants and dining
The food scene in Sorrento, as in much of the region, consists of an abundant amount of seafood and a variety of sweets that are particular to the region of Campania but also specific to the area of the Amalfi Coast.
The vast, vast majority of the seafood that you will eat in any given restaurant in Sorrento will be fresh, local seafood that is caught that day. This includes everything from swordfish to small clams and everything in between.
There are also some regional cheeses, meats, and other dishes that you must try if you want to get a real feel for the local food.
Dishes to try
Gnocchi alla Sorrentina: The most well known dish from Sorrento is gnocchi alla Sorrentina. A gnocchi dish with great umami flavors from the local tomatoes and mozzarella that is mixed together and baked either in a large dish or small terra-cotta bowls.
It is eaten around Campania but the best ones you’ll find are in local trattoria’s in Sorrento.
Stuffed squid/Totani alla Sorrentina: Squid and octopus are widely eaten in coastal southern Italy but this particular dish is super specific to Sorrento. I haven’t even seen this dish in restaurants in Naples which is just 17 miles north of Sorrento.
The squid is stuffed with a mixture of local mozzarella, eggs, caciocavallo cheese, breadcrumbs and sardines and then served in a tomato sauce. The filling might sound a bit odd but I can assure you, it has been perfected over generations.
Mussels: They are simple but so, so good. Most restaurants in the area can serve you a simple plate of mussels cooked with olive oil, parsley, garlic and a dash of lemon.
Even if you’ve had mussels before, I guarantee you, not like these. Super clean and fresh tasting, just don’t eat too many otherwise you could get an upset stomach.
Sweet treats and drinks to try
Delizia al Limone: This rich pastry is a delicacy around the Sorrentine peninsula and is hard to find outside of the area. Made with local lemons, this cake-like sphere is tart, sweet, and surprisingly filling. It hits all the right notes that a pastry should hit without making you feel too too heavy afterwards. Highly recommend.
Limoncello: This iconic alcoholic drink is well known across Italy as well as the region of Campania. However, since the area of the Sorrentine peninsula is famous for its lemons, limoncello is not just more popular here but it is also probably the best that you will find in all of Italy.
9/10 times that you buy it anywhere around the Amalfi Coast, even if it’s from a slightly touristy shop, it will undoubtedly be better than any other limoncello that you have ever had.
Restaurants in Sorrento
A’Marenna
This place is perfect if you just want to get a quick and delicious sandwhich on the go or if you want to get the ingredients to make your own, super fresh sandwich. They have everything you could possible want from a salumeria from a wide variety of cheese and cut meats to fresh local breads.
Expect to pay no more than 7-8 Euros per person (even less depending on what you get).
Genny Street Food
This is the classic southern Italian street food spot where you get in line, spit out your order and you’re on your way in less than a minute. Perfect for all of your fried food wants and needs and is expectedly very cheep.
You can get a filling lunch or afternoon snack at this place for a solid 5-6 Euros.
Da Gigino
If you want to have a sit down experience without breaking the bank, Da Gigino is the perfect place to start. Cozy and affordable, this local spot serves all of the best local food like gnocchi alla Sorrentina, spaghetti with walnuts and of course some good pizza.
It’s no gourmet experience but it is a nice local spot that will feed you well. Expect to pay around 20 Euros per person.
Trattoria Da Emilia
Situated literally on top of the water at the lower part of Sorrento, this family owned restaurant has some of the freshest, if not the freshest, seafood in town. Their speciality is seafood and I would recommend sticking to dishes that have some kind of sea aspect, although they do have really good gnocchi.
Given the location and the quality of the food, expect to pay a bit more than a normal trattoria. Prices per person are usually around 30-40 Euros.
L’Antica Trattoria 1930
This place takes the comfort of a normal trattoria and elevates it to another level. With a lush green garden in the dining area, L’Antica Trattoria 1930 is like a local mom and pop shop if they had a lot more money. They use high-quality and local ingredients and only fruits, vegetables and fish that are in season.
Expect to pay upwards of 70 Euros per person and maybe more depending on how much wine or extras you get.
Ristorante Lorelei
If you want to go all in and have no issues about spending potentially hundreds of dollars for dinner, Lorelei is the place to be. Probably the most expensive and highest quality restaurant in Sorrento with the best views of the Bay of Naples and excellent service, this is the kind of place you take someone to show off that you’ve done your research on the place.
They take local traditional dishes and give them an upgrade with highly studied plates and taste profiles. Expect to pay no less than 130 Euros per person here and you must book your reservation at least a month in advance.
Guided tours on the Amalfi Coast
If you’re interested in taking a tour while on the Amalfi Coast, you’ll find all sorts of neat experiences. While there are lots of short walking tours of the individual towns, I usually think that they’re really only worth it for Naples and Salerno, which are bigger cities. Ravello can also be interesting if you’d like to visit some of its beautiful villas.
Rather than individual walking tours, I think a better use of time is to take a full-day driving tour that includes stops in a host of different towns. Because they’re mostly very small, you can typically visit much of the coast in a single day.
You’ll also find quite a few different boat trips, both shared and private, that go to places like Capri, Procida, Ischia, and the famous Blue Grotto.
Of course, archaeological tours are often another highlight of any visit to the Amalfi Coast. Just nearby you have the ruins of Pompeii, Paestum, and Herculaneum, three of the finest examples of Roman ruins anywhere in Italy.
Walking tours & archaeology tours
For terrific tours of the towns and archaeological sites of the Amalfi Coast, check out local guide Roberto. He’s an archaeologist-guide based in Salerno who runs really fun and interesting experiences.
If you’re interested in walking tours, I highly recommend them in Naples and Salerno. Naples is a big city full of history & culture, hidden corners, and wonderful architecture. It can also be chaotic and confusing, so having a local guide with you really adds to the experience.
Salerno, while not remotely as big as Naples, is an interesting little city that has a lot to see. The town of Ravello is home to some beautiful villas and gardens, like those found at Villa Cimbrone. Both places deserve a longer visit if you have the time.
For archaeological tours, the obvious choice is always Pompeii, but Paestum and Herculaneum are also unique sites entirely worth visiting. Because they are lesser known, they almost always have much smaller crowds.
Driving tours
For driving tours, I always recommend driver-guide Marco who is based in Sorrento and has lived his entire life in the region.
For those with limited time, a full-day driving tour is a great way to see a lot of the Amalfi Coast in a little bit of time. Most driving tours are 8-9 hours and drivers can typically accommodate up to 6-8 guests in their vehicles.
When possible, I recommend doing a driving tour on the day you arrive to the region as it gives you a good introduction to the entire Amalfi Coast and it saves you some money on a transfer as you can get picked up at the train station, airport or ferry terminal in Naples and then finish the tour at your hotel on the coast.
If you’re after something a bit cheaper, this shared/small group driving tour is run by Cioffi Tours, a small family-owned company that has over 200 5-star reviews on Tripadvisor.
- Private, customizable tours
- Luxury Mercedes vehicles
- 20+ years experience
- Genuine & friendly guide
Explore with Marco!
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