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Portland is the biggest city in Oregon, but compared with other West Coast cities like Seattle, San Francisco or Vancouver BC, it can feel like a small town. Even when you’re in the most popular, densely-packed areas, it still retains a neighborhood vibe, creating a welcoming atmosphere for tourists and locals alike.

So whether you’ve decided to come here for the bikes, beer, counterculture, coffee, outdoors, food, or rain - I’ll make sure you know where to go. Portland is my favorite city in the country, and I’m not just saying that because I’ve spent nearly my entire life here (my family moved here when I was two, so although I can’t call myself a native, I do qualify as a bonafide local).

If you’re visiting Portland for the first time, your biggest decision will be whether to stay on the eastside or westside. In broad strokes, the eastside has more of a young and scrappy vibe, while the westside feels more trendy and upscale. That said, Portland isn’t very big, and you can easily explore different parts of it without feeling like you’re spending all your time traveling from point A to point B.

In most neighborhoods you can get around by foot, by bike or scooter (there are rental stations everywhere), or public transit. Most visitors won’t need a car unless you plan on sightseeing outside of the city, or if you’re visiting in the rainy seasons (ie. most of the year) and are averse to getting wet.

Before I launch into my recommendations, here’s some pertinent geographic info about the city that will help you get the lay of the land:

Portland is split into quadrants: NW, SW, NE, SE, and N Portland. Yes, five quadrants. (Don’t get me started on this. In the last few years they’ve even added a sixth quadrant called “South Waterfront,” but I’ve yet to accept this into my everyday parlance and won’t be mentioning its existence beyond here.)
Burnside Avenue splits the city into its north and south sections and runs across the Willamette River on the appropriately named Burnside Bridge.
The Willamette River bisects the city into its east and west sides, and we have an absurd number of bridges (or so said my freshman roommate at Portland State who was from New York.) The Willamette bends to the west just north of downtown and the North Portland quadrant sits above this like an inverted triangle.

All street names are preceded by their quadrant initials, so if you get lost you can at least know what area you’re in (ex. NW Davis St, SE Hawthorne Blvd.). I’ve lived in all five quadrants and have helped friends throughout the years find great places to stay that fit their needs, and I’m here today to help you too, dear reader.

Here are a couple of maps/images that will hopefully help you get a feel for this:

Portland’s five “quadrants”. Photo: Sean Kelly, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

*A map of Portland. Photo:* *Edmontonenthusiast*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Table of Contents

Quick summary of my 4 recommended neighborhoods

1. Downtown

Downtown Portland boasts a centralized location, tons of hotel options, and access to all the public transportation you could want including buses, the MAX (light rail), and the Portland Streetcar. However, you’ll also find shuttered shop windows and you’ll be in the thick of the city’s major homelessness problem.

It has gotten better in the last year or so, and there are fun things going on so it’s not all bad. I’d recommend downtown for those who like nice hotels and want a reliable home base to explore the rest of the city.

2. The Pearl & Nob Hill

Northwest Portland is a densely-packed urban center with trendy neighborhoods like the Pearl and Nob Hill that feature a plethora of bars, restaurants, shops, galleries and entertainment options.

This part of town feels fancier and wealthier than neighborhoods on the eastside, and is a great place to stay if you gravitate towards the finer things in life and don’t mind splurging on shopping and dining.

3. Central Eastside (Buckman)

Right across the Willamette River from downtown is the Central Eastside District that’s chock-full of music venues, street art, and old warehouses converted into bars, breweries, and distilleries.

It has a grittier feel than the westside neighborhoods, and it’s very easy to get around by foot or public transport. This neighborhood is perfect for young-ish hipsters looking to experience the “authentic” Portland.

4. Hawthorne District

The Hawthorne District is one of the most established SE neighborhoods in all of Portland, and it's a chill area of town with an assortment of things to do for adults and kids alike, making it a good choice for families.

However, there are no hotels nearby and if you’re not comfortable taking the bus or biking, you may want to rent a car if you stay around here.

1. Downtown

Best for: First-time visitors with limited time who want to be able to get everywhere quickly

Pros: Centrally located, lots of hotel options, great access to public transportation, close to Washington Park

Cons: Lacks personality, visible homelessness and open drug use (I’m really selling it, right?)

*Downtown Portland. Photo:* Tony Webster, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

*Pioneer Square in Downtown Portland. Photo:* *Cacophony*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Logistically speaking, downtown Portland is ideal: there are tons of hotels and you have ready access to all of Portland’s public transportation. It’s also really pretty. The north and south park blocks are filled with stately poplars and elms, sculptures, and a picturesque, year-round farmers market every Saturday. It’s flanked by the rolling West Hills and Forest Park to the west and the aptly named riverfront “Waterfront Park” that hosts a seemingly endless line-up of brewfests, live music, and cultural events in the spring and summer.

You’ve also got event spaces like Providence Park if you wanna take in a Timbers or Thorns game, Pioneer Courthouse Square (aka “Portland’s Living Room”) that puts on a killer series of outdoor summer concerts, or the historic Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall if you wanna get all fancy. Downtown also lets you take advantage of Portland’s superb parks. You can easily head up to Washington Park to see the famous International Rose Test Garden or the exquisite Japanese Gardens.

And yet . . . I'll level with you: I don’t spend much time downtown and I don’t know many people who do besides my friend Tieg who works at the courthouse. This is somewhat bittersweet to me, as it was once one of the best downtowns in the country. I lived downtown many moons ago and worked in the Pioneer Place Mall, and it was actually a cool and fun and safe place to live and work! Sadly, in the past several years it’s taken a nosedive and has struggled to regain its footing.

Like most downtowns, the economy is driven in large part by the constant presence of office workers, but the pandemic shifted many of these jobs over to remote work. This also coincided with the BLM protests that put Portland on the map as an “unsafe” city full of civil unrest. Additionally, the ongoing homelessness and fentanyl epidemic can most reliably be seen downtown (especially in the Old Town and Chinatown areas).

To be fair, Portland got a bad rap in the press for all this, and it was never as bad as many people thought. And yet, there are still lots of closed storefronts, half-empty high-rise office buildings, and it can feel kinda dead.

I know I’m painting a grim picture, but there are some undeniably good things about downtown too. It’s a mixed bag. So—would I stay here? Probably not. Do you want to stay here? . . . Maybe? I’d recommend downtown for someone who likes staying in nice hotels, doesn't plan to rent a car, and wants a central hub to explore various neighborhoods around town.

Where to stay

Royal Sonesta: The 4-star Royal Sonesta is one of the top-rated hotels in town and puts you mere steps away from the MAX and bus lines. The hotel features colorful, vintage-inspired rooms and a fitness center. $145 to $230 per night.

Society Hotel: The 3-star Society Hotel is in Chinatown which can be sketchy, so if you have kids with you or aren’t comfortable with visible homelessness, there are probably better options. Still, this is a very hip hotel that offers hostel-style bunk rooms, shared-bath, and private suites. There’s a bar/cafe in the lobby and a fantastic rooftop deck. Private suites are $118 to $135 per night.

The Nines: A 5-star luxury hotel with a fancy, pan-Asian rooftop restaurant, a steakhouse, and swanky shared spaces. The Nines is in the old Meier & Frank building which looks out onto Pioneer Courthouse Square, so you couldn't ask for a better location. $240 to $355 per night.

McMenamins Crystal Hotel: McMenamins is a household name in the Pacific Northwest with hotels, bars, restaurants, and music venues throughout the area (like the iconic Crystal Ballroom that adjoins the hotel). They always do a good job with lodging but the food and beer suck, so go somewhere else to eat. Guests get to use the tranquil, basement-level soaking pool. Rooms with a private bath range from $175 to $225 per night.

2. Pearl District & Nob Hill

Best for: Just about anyone 30+ (including families and older visitors), people looking for a an upscale urban atmosphere, anyone interested in art and culture

Pros: Pretty area; very lively and fun; tons of shops, restaurants, and bars; good access to public transportation; close to Forest Park

Cons: Parts are touristy, it can feel a little too “yuppie” sometimes

*Apartment buildings on NW Lovejoy Street in the Pearl District. Photo:* *Tony Webster from Portland, Oregon*, *CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*The intersection of NW 10th and NW Couch Street. Photo:* *Buzzlovestravel*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*A typical Queen Anne Style House on NW Davis St. in Nob Hill. Photo:* *Ian Poellet*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Couch Park in Nob Hill. Photo:* *K. Kendall*, *CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

These two inner neighborhoods of NW Portland (that I’m defining as the area from W Burnside to NW Vaughn and from NW Park to NW 29th) are all clustered close together just to the north of Downtown and have a real “urban” vibe akin to Vancouver BC, making them fun and vibrant areas to stay in when visiting for the first time (or any time really).

The Pearl District

The first area I’ll highlight is the Pearl District, which kinda feels like the “new” downtown. It’s been transformed in the last couple decades, and is unrecognizable to someone who has fond memories of 90s Portland. When I was a kid this area was full of neglected warehouses with a few that were converted into experimental art galleries, and now it’s one of the nicest neighborhoods in town.

The city has put a lot of money and effort into the Pearl in the last decade or so and the result is a densely-packed, fashionable, updated neighborhood with a user-friendly street design. The Pearl feels new and chic and you can tell there’s money here with its upscale dining and shopping options.

You’ll see a lot of taller, modern condos that attract the “young professional” crowd who are moving here from out of town, resulting in a demographic that skews more transplants and less locals. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as this cohort has money to spend and they want to have fun which creates a lively atmosphere.

It’s also home to illustrious Powell's Books and the First Thursday art walk which runs April through October. First Thursday started off as just a few galleries staying open late and serving wine, but now it’s a full-on party every month where the streets are bustling with pedestrians having a good time.

Nob Hill

Nob Hill is another noteworthy NW Portland neighborhood and lies a handful of blocks west of the Pearl (you can take the Streetcar directly there). The main draw of this neighborhood is NW 23rd Ave (and to a lesser extent NW 21st Ave) which has a long-standing history in the city so it feels more established than the Pearl.

Whereas the Pearl District is much more modern and downtown-ish, Nob Hill is an incredibly charming area with tree-lined streets, old Victorian homes and shopping, restaurants, bars, art galleries, and coffee shops that stretch for about 16 blocks. This neighborhood is home to more families (mainly affluent, old-money ones), older millennials, and Gen Xers.

Nob Hill also gets you closer to the incomparable Forest Park (one of the largest urban parks in the country), so if you like to hike this is a good part of town for you. I recommend the Lower Macleay to Pittock Mansion hike - it’s five miles round trip and at the top you’ll get sweeping views of the city.

So, what can I leave you with about these areas? Well, in general, NW Portland, and the Pearl especially, has a reputation for being more yuppified than the rest of the city. While the crowd in the Pearl is relatively young, they’re very “professional” (make of that what you will) - think 30-somethings who go to barre3 or Orange Theory and drive Teslas. I am far from this demographic, but I can still enjoy myself here in a reverse slumming-it kinda way.

As I said above, Nob Hill is older and more established, with older architecture and more long-time residents and families. Both are really nice areas and there’s tons to see and do in each of them, so you can’t really go wrong with either. You just need to know what to you’re getting yourself into, and if you’re expecting the quirky and weird Portland of Portlandia, you will definitely not find what you’re after here.

In general, I'd recommend these areas for visitors who want a vibrant but relatively upscale city experience and like having a lot of choices for shopping and higher-end restaurants, bars, etc.

Where to stay

Canopy by Hilton: A nice, 4-star hotel with a great location for exploring the Pearl and higher-end, clean, comfortable, and quiet rooms. There’s also a fitness center and a large restaurant on the main floor. $128 to $252 per night.

Hampton Inn: Although it’s only a 2-star hotel, the Hampton Inn punches above its weight and is in a great location. It doesn’t have a lot of “Portland” personality, but it does have an indoor pool, fitness center, and rooftop patio. It’s an especially good choice for families since they have connecting rooms and complimentary breakfast. $128 to $200 per night.

Silver Cloud: The Silver Cloud is a 3-star hotel that’s a bit out of the way, but still close enough to explore NW Portland by foot, especially the Nob Hill area. It’s not “in the action” which might appeal to those who want a respite away from the bustling city, and it has free parking which is rare. $119 to $189 per night.

Inn at Northrup: This 3-star hotel is an ideal location for exploring Nob Hill. The decor here is stuck in the 90’s in a Saved By the Bell kinda way, which I can get into but some may find obnoxious. Rooms come with a seating area and kitchenette, free parking, breakfast and Portland Streetcar tickets making it ideal for longer stays. $147 to $230 per night.

3. Central Eastside (Buckman)

Best for: People looking to party, younger visitors, anyone after a bit of grit and edge

Pros: Close to everything, fun nightlife, young demographic and lively vibe

Cons: Feels a bit grittier than most other areas, can get pretty loud (and nights can run late)

*The historic Barber Block on SE Grand in the Central Eastside. Photo:* *Steve Morgan*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*A stretch of the Eastbank Esplanade. Photo:* *Robert Ashworth from Bellingham, WA., USA*, *CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

The Central Eastside (called the Buckman neighborhood on maps, but I’ve never heard anyone refer to it as that) is more industrial and gritty than the westside, but also has a scrappy atmosphere that I’m drawn to. The area runs from E Burnside to the north down to SE Hawthorne to the south, and there are two arterial streets running right through it (Grand Ave and MLK Jr. Blvd) that are busy, three- and four-lane thoroughfares.

This is another area that’s really put itself on the map in the last 10 to 20 years, but not in the same way as the more ostentatious westside neighborhoods. This is the area I’d stay in if I was visiting Portland for the first time.

What I really like about the Central Eastside is that it embraces the dichotomy of new and old Portland - you’ll find dive bars and strip clubs next to James Beard award-winning restaurants. There isn’t much of a residential area, save for some of the newer high-rise condos, and the businesses and retail spaces that are there are more spread out or found in pockets, making it feel underdeveloped compared with downtown and the Pearl. I happen to like this because it feels more organic and less curated and touristy.

The Central Eastside is also home to the mural district, and the expansive concrete walls of the many warehouses and manufacturing facilities are adorned with gorgeous murals and graffiti art, so just walking around the neighborhood is entertainment in itself.

This is a very walkable area, and you can easily pop over to a Trailblazers game at the Moda Center, the super-trippy immersive art experience, Hopscotch, or to OMSI to take in the latest exhibit. You can also walk down to the river and onto the Eastbank Esplanade for a bike ride, stroll, or to take a dip off the Duckworth Dock in the summer. This is an especially good area for young travelers who want to do stuff and dive into the bar and nightlife scene.

The Central Eastside is a great alternative to downtown for a homebase and a few good hotels have opened recently. It’s got a younger, hipper feel than the westside and there’s more stuff to do at night be it bars, live music, or strip clubs (yes, Portland has a thing for strip clubs).

This is a good area for someone who wants that real “city” feel and to check out all the coolest, Portland attractions. It’s also a good jumping off point for exploring other neighborhoods since it’s easy to hop on the Streetcar or walk across the Burnside Bridge to get downtown. There aren’t as many shopping options here as you'll find in other areas, so if your idea of a good time is taking a leisurely stroll down a busy retail strip and popping in and out of shops, you’re better off staying in Nob Hill or the Hawthorne District.

Where to stay

Grand Stark: The Grand Stark is centrally located, but it does sit on a major thoroughfare (SE Grand), and the rooms can be loud at night. You can mitigate this somewhat by booking a room that sits on the SE Stark side. It’s an historic building with creaky floors, and the rooms in this 4-star hotel are modern and quirky. Street parking can be tough, but they offer valet services. $90 to $238 per night.

KEX: The 3-star KEX Hotel is in a cool, old building that sits right at the end of the Burnside Bridge, so you have great access to everything. It offers hostel-type rooms, European-style shared bath, and private rooms with an en-suite bathroom. They also have family rooms that can sleep up to six people. You’re on your own for parking, so if you have a car it can be tricky. There’s an on-site gym with a dry sauna. $152 to $199 per night.

Jupiter: The Jupiter Hotel has made itself into a Portland landmark and has a hip, young vibe. There are two parts to this hotel: the Jupiter Original and the Jupiter NEXT. The Original is a renovated classic motel lodge and each room features a bespoke mural, but these rooms tend to be loud at night. $113 to $170 per night

Jupiter NEXT: For a quieter stay than at the Jupiter and adding in great city views, is Jupiter NEXT, the much taller building next door that opened in 2018. $180 to $265 per night.

4. Hawthorne District

Best for: Hipsters, anyone with a car, people looking for a local atmosphere and that fun & funky Portland vibe

Pros: OG Portland vibes, lots of good shopping and dining, plenty of nearby green spaces, slower and more relaxed pace than the westside neighborhoods

Cons: Basically no hotels (only short-term apartments), public transit is pretty limited

*A bar on the corner of Division Street in the Hawthorne Neighborhood. Photo:* *Another Believer*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*A stretch of businesses on SE Hawthorne. Photo:* *Another Believer*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

SE Portland is home to several established neighborhoods and the heart of these is SE Hawthorne Blvd. Back when I was a budding hippie in high school, Hawthorne was the destination of choice for all the nag champa and flowy skirts a girl could want. Even now it still has a Haight-Ashbury/“Keep Portland Weird” vibe and it’s something of a Portland institution.

It’s also flanked by a few other noteworthy streets: SE Belmont Ave six blocks to the north, and SE Clinton and Division nine blocks to the south. Commerce is mainly confined to these main streets, and they’re surrounded by residential areas of primarily detached, old Portland homes on tree-lined streets.

This area is great for anyone who wants a classic Portland experience, since out of all the neighborhoods I’ve highlighted, this one feels closest to the nostalgic Portland of my youth. Although you'll see plenty of young college-aged people walking around, there are also a lot of families in this area and it’s surrounded by charming residential neighborhoods.

It’s ideal for someone who loves vintage shopping, unique boutiques, and bookstores (including a smaller (but still big) branch of Powell's Books). There are a plethora of bars and restaurants, and a few movie theaters and live music venues.

The main stretch of Hawthorne runs from SE 30th Ave up to SE 50th. If you’re willing to hoof it a little further for some immersion in nature, head up to Mt Tabor Park. Climb up to the summit of this extinct volcano and take in incredible views of the city. Another beautiful green space that’s not too far away is Laurelhurst Park, which was inspired by (and resembles) Central Park.

If you want to change it up, pop over to SE Belmont or down to SE Division for even more dining and entertainment options, including the Clinton Street Theater, one of the oldest movie houses in the country that opened in 1915. The theater is famous for its weekly showings of The Rocky Horror Picture Show where patrons are encouraged to dress as their favorite character and bring props for a raucous, interactive theater experience. I highly recommend it.

The main drawback of this area is there are like no hotel options nearby, and your best bet for lodging is to look into a vacation rental. It’s also not near the MAX or Streetcar lines, and although you can take the bus fairly easily, it may be a pain to figure out the schedules. If it were me, I’d rent a bike or scooter and use that as my main mode of transportation. It’s mostly flat and Portland is super bike-friendly.

I honestly think a weekend trip just spent in this area sounds delightful. It’s good for both families and solo travelers, and will appeal to those looking for a little slower pace. There still are bars and places to go at night, but there’s no real clubbing scene.

Where to stay

As I said above, the accommodation options here are limited almost entirely to short-term apartments/Airbnb.

Division Inns: The Division Inns consists of two “guesthouses” (which I guess is like a cross between a B&B and a boutique hotel?). The Evermore is on SE 38th and Clinton and the Bluebird is on SE 35th and Division (neither on Hawthorne, but it’s the closest you’re gonna get without going the Airbnb/Vrbo route, and these are awesome locations in their own right). All rooms have a private bath and guests can use the main kitchen. $108 to $286 per night.

Other neighborhoods to consider

The four neighborhoods I’ve listed above are your best choices for first-timers to Portland, but there are two more I feel compelled to highlight.

Alberta Arts District

This was my neighborhood for eight years before I migrated with my son to the northern lands of St. Johns, and it will always hold a special place in my heart. I still think it’s one of the best neighborhoods in Portland to live in and visit, but it’s far enough out from the city center that I wouldn't recommend it for first-timers.

The Alberta Arts District is often hailed as one of the most artsy and diverse neighborhoods in Portland and rightly so. It’s a fun place to hang out in and to me feels more authentic than some of the westside neighborhoods. In the last few years, it’s definitely started trending a little more upscale, but you can still find affordable food, vintage stores, and fun bars.

There’s also the long-running Last Thursday street fair, which started out as a bohemian alternative to the more posh First Thursday art walk in the Pearl. The event runs every month, shutting down 15 city blocks and turning the street into a huge party with vendors, art installations, street performers and musical acts.

Alberta is a great choice for someone who’s visited Portland before and has done the downtown/Pearl/Central Eastside thing and wants to experience a different part of the city. There aren’t a lot of lodging options, but the ones it does have are noteworthy. Namely, the Kennedy School (another McMenamins establishment that used to be an old school), and the newly opened, super swanky Cascada Thermal Springs and Hotel.

Mississippi & Williams

*Businesses on N Mississippi Avenue. Photo:* *Joe Mabel*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

N Mississippi and N Williams Ave sit at the southern tip of North Portland and both streets are full of quirky shops, restaurants, food cart pods, and one of the best live music venues in all of Portland, Mississippi Studios. If you like the vibe of Hawthorne, but want something less hippie, a bit younger, and closer in, Mississippi is a good choice.

Mississippi, like a number of inner-Portland neighborhoods, has seen a surge in growth over the last 20 years, and today is a densely-packed, five-block stretch that’s bursting with shops and restaurants and young people that come from around the city and suburbs to let loose on the weekends. It’s also close to the Pearl, downtown and the Rose Quarter. Six blocks to the east is N Williams Ave that somehow always attracts the best new restaurants.

This area makes for a great day-time excursion, but its lack of lodging bars it from being a viable alternative to downtown or the Central Eastside for a home base. There’s one exception to this, but it’s not for the faint of heart - the White Eagle Hotel is about a half mile away and has 11 rooms that all sit above the saloon (one of the oldest bars in Portland that’s rumored to be haunted). There’s live music every night, so don’t stay here if you cherish your beauty rest; this is a place for partiers.

Where to Stay in Portland, Oregon - A Local's Neighborhood Guide

Quick summary of my 4 recommended neighborhoods

1. Downtown

Where to stay

2. Pearl District & Nob Hill

Where to stay

3. Central Eastside (Buckman)

Where to stay

4. Hawthorne District

Where to stay

Other neighborhoods to consider

Alberta Arts District

Mississippi & Williams

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