One Week Sicily Itinerary - Catania, Taormina, Etna, and the Val di Noto
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This 7-day itinerary on Sicily’s east coast mixes sun, fun, a bite of la dolce vita, archaeological treasures, Baroque architecture, and some natural wonders. All the highlights of eastern Sicily packed into 7 glorious days; what else could you ask for in a trip?
This route will bring you through the beauties of Catania: its chaotic fish market, Roman ruins, an underground river, a Swabian castle, and a prince’s palace. After, you’ll discover why Grand Tour travellers, nobles, and movie stars have all fallen in love with Taormina. Right nearby, you’ll be stunned by Europe’s most active volcano, Mount Etna, while hiking on its slopes.
The itinerary then heads south, where you can admire Siracusa, its mighty Greek past, and the tiny island of Ortigia. To take advantage of the region’s great beaches, we’ve left time for a refreshing dip in the pristine waters of the Vendicari Nature Reserve before you shoot over to the charming fishing village of Marzamemi, where you should try fresh red tuna for lunch.
The city of Noto, the brightest jewel of the Val di Noto region, is up next; sure to enchant you (especially at sunset) with its golden-hued buildings. Just down the road awaits Modica with its winding alleys and distinct local chocolate, still prepared in the Aztec way!
Not to be outdone, Ragusa Ibla is a maze full of Baroque surprises where getting lost is all part of the pleasure. To top it off, you can wander in an authentic labyrinth in the gardens of the nearby Donnafugata castle.
Unfortunately, at some point your trip must end, and it will finish back where it started: in Catania. Here in the city, you’ll spend your last day exploring underground passageways, a Swabian castle surrounded by lava stone, and two lovely coastal towns just outside the city on the Riviera dei Ciclopi.
Off we go! Here is your day-by-day plan.
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Table of Contents
Day 1 - Catania city center
Day 2 - Taormina day trip
Day 3 - Hiking on Mount Etna
Day 4 - Syracuse & Ortigia
Day 5 - Road trip to Vendicari Nature Reserve, Marazamemi, and Noto
Day 6 - Baroque jewels of the Val di Noto: Modica, Scicli, and Ragusa
Day 7 - Catania and the Riviera dei Ciclopi
Plan your itinerary with local help
In the article below we’ve tried to put together a comprehensive itinerary that covers the highlights of the east and includes a few hidden gems. But Eastern Sicily is full of treasures, so we couldn’t cover it all.
If you could use some help coming up with the ideal plan for your visit, consider scheduling a Sicily travel consultation with our Palermo-based local expert, Dania.
These are one-hour Zoom calls where you get to chat with Dania about the trip you’re planning and she’ll share her tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.
Guided Tours in Sicily
If you’re interested in guided tours while in Sicily, reach out to the Sicily guides at Guides of Italia.
With a small group of veteran guides based in different parts of the island, you’ll find everything from transfers and walking tours to day trips, hikes, multi-day tours, and lots more.
The guides are all Sicilian locals, generally with at least 10 years of guiding experience.
How to get around
Before I get into the itinerary, it’s important to cover how you should plan on getting around during your trip.
To be frank, Sicily in general does not have good public transport. Our train network has always been woefully inadequate and trains are old, slow, and often late. Most cities also aren’t well-connected by trains. Unlike in the rest of Italy, buses are actually the primary means of public transport here and they’re often faster than trains (if a train route even exists).
While a few of the places on this itinerary are reachable by train (Catania to Siracusa for example), and all of the major towns and cities reachable by bus, if you only have 7 days you don’t have the time to use public transport. To make this itinerary work in just one week, you need to a car.
Also, having a car will give you the freedom to make stops along your route, get into the countryside, explore secluded beaches, and really make much better use of your time.
Where to rent a car
All the big car rental companies have offices in Sicily and you also have many local agencies. If you begin your visit in Catania or any other larger city, you’ll find plenty of options for car rentals.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
Day 1: Catania
Your trip starts in Catania, the main city on the east coast of Sicily. With a population of 300,000, this is Sicily’s second largest city and it’s full of vitality and energy. It sits right on the coastline, in the shadow of the volcano Etna.
It is also known as the “Black City” due to its distinctive architecture, mainly built using volcanic stone, and the city center is a veritable treasure chest full of gems to discover.
Because Catania is a good base for day trips to Taormina and Mount Etna (and because packing and unpacking is a drag!), you’ll spend 3 nights here.
Morning
Begin your exploration of Catania by spending a few hours walking through the historical center. Here, discover a very peculiar Baroque style unique to this region of Sicily. The distinctive style characterizes the region because in 1693 the entire area was razed to the ground by a strong earthquake. The cities, including Catania, were all rebuilt in this late-flourishing evolution of Baroque.
As you wander, you’ll surely also note that churches and palaces are mainly built in a grayish-black volcanic stone, an architectural singularity of the towns and cities of the Val di Noto region (the southeastern part of Sicily) of which Catania is a part.
A walk through the center should start right at Piazza Duomo in front of the city’s cathedra which was reconstructed in Baroque style over the remains of an 11th-century Norman church. In the center of the square is the Liotru fountain which contains a statue of a large lava-stone elephant carrying an obelisk. It's the symbol of the city.
Nearby, be sure to visit the church of Sant’Agata alla Badia with a bizarre concave-convex façade. Climb the stairs to reach the panoramic terrace and enjoy a 360 degree view over Catania.
Now, continue along Via Etnea to Piazza Università where you’ll see Vaccarini’s Palazzo Sangiuliano and Palazzo Università (duck inside to have a look at its cobblestone courtyard). Stop at the intersection known as Quattro Canti to admire impressive Baroque balconies, then head to the parallel street of Via Crociferi which is by a sequence of Baroque churches and old monasteries.
Complete your tour of historic Catania by discovering the Benedictine monastery, dating back to the 16th century. It was nearly destroyed by the lava eruption in 1669 and rebuilt after the earthquake in 1693.
The monastery has a grand façade in Baroque style, balconies supported by gargoyles, an impressive staircase with stuccoworks, frescoed rooms, two peaceful cloisters, and a garden built on lava. Guided tours of the monastery depart every hour and last 90 minutes.
If you haven’t had your fill of churches and viewpoints, after the monastery you can head next door to the church of San Nicolò La Rena, where you can climb onto the roof for a great view over Catania and all the way to Etna.
Time for lunch! Head to Piazza Scammacca where a former church now hosts four thematic restaurants, a wine shop, and a pastry shop. There’s also an exhibition space.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, visit Palazzo Biscari, a noble palace still inhabited by Prince Biscari’s heirs. During the 18th century, it was a mandatory stop on any “Grand Tour” trip. Here, you can admire the prince’s archaeological and art collections and marvel at the sheer splendour of the palace itself, built atop a section of the city walls.
If you’re lucky, the current heir himself will guide you through a majestic Rococo-style ballroom, paintings depicting his ancestors (he’ll tell family anecdotes!), and a bedroom with rosewood wooden panelling and a stunning 1st-century floor. Guided tours last 45 minutes.
From here, head to Via Vittorio Emanuele to see Catania’s Roman ruins. Start at the Roman theater dating back to the 2nd century AD. Next to it is also a smaller odeon; a building used for musical performances in antiquity.
A short distance, you can see the so-called Terme della Rotonda, ruins of Roman baths on which a Byzantine church was later built. Be sure to also pass by the Roman Amphitheater on Piazza Stesicoro. Figure that a leisurely wander through this area will take you about an hour.
Evening
At sunset, have a drink on the rooftop of the Ostello degli Elefanti. It’s actually a hostel, but the terrace off its bar offers gorgeous views over the city center, with Mount Etna looming in the distance.
At dinner time book a table at Canni e Pisci. Locals love this cozy little restaurant serving excellent food. The area around it is lively at night, so enjoy a walk before going to bed.
Overnight in Catania
The city center is your best choice to stay in Catania as the main attractions will never be more than a 10-15 minute walk. The area between Piazza Duomo and Piazza Teatro Massimo is busier at night and more lit up, while the backstreets around Castello Ursino are quieter. Here are three hotel options I like:
Asmundo di Gisira - €230 per night.
Palace Catania - Around €200.
Liberty Hotel - Rooms from around €150 per night.
Day 2: Day trip to Taormina
Once a busy Greek city, Taormina, perched high on a promontory jutting into the sea, later became a destination loved by local nobles, then Grand Tour travellers, and finally movie stars. Now, it’s a glossy hotspot not to be missed by anyone wanting to experience a little taste of Dolce Vita.
Morning
Today, get an early start and head straight to Taormina, about 50 minutes from Catania. A charming town located on cliffs rising over a glistening coast, Taormina was a flourishing Greek city in antiquity and then became a popular tourist destination during the 18th century. It’s now a chic town favored by wealthy locals, celebrities, and well-heeled visitors.
Although Taormina can be a bit touristy and get very crowded in summer, it’s still an unmissable stop for anyone looking to get a taste of Sicilian dolce vita. For history and archaeology loves, the chance to see an excellently preserved Greek amphitheatre, medieval churches, and elegant palaces also makes it a worthwhile stop. If that’s not enough, the city also features a lovely garden with a view over Etna and a tiny beach in front of a fairy-tale island.
Start your visit with an unforgettable breakfast at Bam Bar; do as the locals and order a granita paired with a warm brioche. After filling up, dive into the city by strolling along the pedestrian Corso Umberto lined with boutiques, artisan shops, palaces like Palazzo Corvaja, and small churches.
Stop at Piazza IX Aprile, where you’ll be gifted with a marvellous view over the Ionian Sea, then head to the public garden. An English lady created it as a private garden in the 19th century and the views over Mount Etna are wonderful. Also make sure to stop at the city’s Duomo and the church of Santa Caterina, built on a former Greek temple. A leisurely wander through all these places will take you about 2 hours.
If you need a little pick-me-up after all that walking, make your way to the D’Amore pastry shop a few steps from Santa Caterina church and indulge in a freshly filled cannolo. Cannolo in hand (or in stomach!), now you’re ready to face the quick climb up Via Teatro to reach the 3rd century BC Greek theatre.
During summer the theatre hosts concerts and plays, so have a look at the schedule and come back at night to attend a performance! The theatre, aside from being stunningly preserved, also affords fabulous views over Etna and the Ionian sea.
After visiting, have a quick lunch at Da Cristina, a family-run restaurant serving delicious freshly fried arancini.
Afternoon
After lunch, take the cable car down to Isola Bella, a tiny island that is linked to the coast by a thin isthmus you can cross by walking. The island hides a villa carved into the rock and a nature reserve. Cable cars leave every 15 minutes and the ride takes just 3 minutes.
You’ll need about 30 minutes to visit the island, or you can simply laze on the beach, enjoying a refreshing swim. Yet another option is to hop on a boat and explore the nearby caves. Tours take 2 hours, departing regularly throughout the day from the beach in front of Isola Bella.
Spend the rest of your afternoon discovering the village of Castelmola, a bit higher in altitude Taormina. Castelmola has a magnificent view over the sea, the ruins of a Norman castle, and a maze of pretty cobbled streets to explore. Do not miss a stop at Caffè San Giorgio, on the main Piazza Sant’Antonio, to taste the local almond wine.
You can reach Castemola by car (10 minutes), bus (15 minutes), or a 45 minute walk along the Sentiero dei Saraceni, a short hike that connects the two towns. The walk starts from Piazza Goethe, about a 15-minute walk from Taormina’s city center.
Evening
At sunset, go back to Taormina and sit at the Sky Rooftop Bar inside the Hotel Continental to have a drink while the sun dips away behind Mount Etna.
If you booked a performance at the Greek Theater, it’s time to go. Otherwise, consider staying for dinner before returning to Catania for the night. Sit at an outdoor table at Osteria RossoDiVino where you can taste local delicacies in an intimate setting with views over a medieval palace.
Overnight in Catania
See hotel options above.
Day 3: Hiking on Mount Etna
If you’ve ever wanted to walk on the flanks of an active volcano, today is the day for you! Etna is Europe’s highest and most active volcano, and it’s an easy day trip from Catania.
You can climb it on foot, take a 4x4 tour, hop a ride on a cable car, and more options. Regardless of how you move around, you’ll get up close with the plumes of vapor coming out of its craters and feel its living breath under your feet. But no worries, it’s all perfectly safe! Just bring sturdy shoes (no flip-flops, please), lots of water, and some energy!
A section of a trail on Mount Etna
Morning
On your third day in Sicily, spend the day climbing Mount Etna. Locals call it Her Highness Mount Etna (yes, for us it’s female!) due to its majestic extension of 1200 square km dotted with extinct craters and four active ones continuously smoking (and sometimes erupting) around the summit.
The park is huge and offers a variety of landscapes, from desert volcanic areas to lush forests. There are so many outdoor activities to partake in here as well: hiking, biking, skiing, snowboarding, climbing, and exploring caves. Most of Etna is visitable independently (excluding the active craters, of course), but you can also hire guides for a variety of different tours/activities.
To start your exploration, drive to Rifugio Sapienza on the southern slope of Mount Etna, 55 minutes from Catania. This is a mountain hotel located in front of one of the cable cars, and there’s also a parking lot and trailheads right nearby. You can also get there by direct bus (2 hours, departing every morning).
From the parking lot at Rifugio Sapienza, you can hike independently about 30 minutes to the nearest Crateri Silvestri, inactive craters created during a massive eruption in 1892. They are easily accessible and offer a Mars-like landscape. A bit further, you can take the path leading to Schiena dell’Asino (2 hours, about 5,5 km) up to the edge of the Valle del Bove, an impressive valley where most of the lava flows collect.
Pack a lunch and bring it in your backpack today, or head back to the Rifugio Sapienza restaurant for a meal with a view over the lunar landscapes.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, you can go higher to explore the incredible landscape of the volcanic desert and enjoy a spectacular view over Sicily’s east coast. Take the cable car Funivia dell’Etna (departing from the Rifugio Sapienza) up to Montagnola at 2,500 meters above sea level. From there, you’ll have a sense of just how massive the volcano is.
You can continue your climb by walking or catching a ride in a 4x4 vehicle (Star company, tickets on-site) to reach Torre del Filosofo at 2,900 meters above sea level. The higher you go, the more mysterious the landscape becomes. You will feel like you have landed on another planet while walking on volcanic sand. It’s black but sparkles in the sun!
From here, if you want to go further up to the active craters and see where Etna’s magic happens, you must hire a professional guide at the wooden hut next to Torre del Filosofo. You can also arrange an excursion in advance here.
*If you won’t have a car or would like to have a guide with you for the day, local guides Mirco and Paolo both offer guided tours of Etna.
Evening
After a very full day enjoying the wonders of Etna, hop back in the car for the return trip to Catania.
If you’ve still got some energy left and want to partake in local nightlife, take a walk along Via Santa Filomena. It is a narrow street full of tiny restaurants serving all different types of local treats. I like FUD which offers burgers and sandwiches (including veg options) made using strictly Sicilian ingredients. They also have a good selection of wines and beers.
Overnight in Catania
See hotel options on day 1.
Connect with Dania in Palermo for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!
Day 4: Syracuse & Ortigia
At the height of its splendor, the Latin writer Cicero called Siracusa the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of all. With a population of 300,000, it rivaled Athens! You can still see the evidence of this past magnificence by walking through the remains of its Greek beauties.
Ortigia, an island connected to Syracuse by a bridge (and technically part of the city), is surprisingly different; all Baroque instead of Greek.
You’ll be spending the night in Syracuse.
Ortigia
Morning
Syracuse (Siracusa in Italian) is a splendid city on Sicily’s southeastern coast. Here, you’ll discover that there are two Siracusas though: the mainland, where its ancient Greek soul persists; and the small island of Ortigia (connected to the mainland by two bridges), where Baroque style explodes and today's Sicilian soul vibrates.
The drive from Catania to Syracuse is just under an hour, so you can get to the city in mid-morning to make the most of your time.
Start your visit wandering the Neapolis archaeological site which includes a Roman amphitheatre, an impressive ancient quarry named Latomia del Paradiso, the Eurialo castle, and the so-called Orecchio di Dionisio; an ear-shaped cave that amplifies every noise. A legend tells that the tyrant Dionysius used to imprison his enemies in the cave so that he could hear their conversations.
The superstar of the Neapolis is the majestic Greek theatre dating back to the 5th century BC. The theater also still hosts classical plays and from May to early July, you can come in the evenings to attend a performance. You can check the schedule and buy tickets here (or on-site).
A tour around the entire complex takes about 90 minutes.
Only about 500 meters away from the archaeological site is the Paolo Orsi Archeological Museum, among the most important in Sicily. You 100% should enter it, giving yourself at least 90 minutes to enjoy its treasures.
For lunch, head over to Ortigia. I recommend walking (30 minutes), but you can also catch minibus 2 to shorten the trip. If you take the bus, get off immediately after crossing the bridge.
Your destination now is Caseificio Borderi, a small local restaurant serving fantastic sandwiches stuffed with typical Sicilian products. Take your meal to go and enjoy it while sitting by the sea. If you want a more sit-down experience, you can dine al fresco right next door at Fratelli Burgio where they serve excellent charcuterie boards, accompanied by good local wines.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, wander Ortigia’s labyrinth of narrow streets packed with centuries-old palaces, Baroque churches, and two ancient temples.
Start exploring the island from the Doric temple of Apollo. Then, walk to Piazza Archimede, flanked by buildings from the Middle Ages onwards. Continue to Piazza Minerva, where you’ll see the columns of a former temple of Athena. Today, a Baroque church rises over it.
The crescent-shaped Piazza Duomo, lined by beautiful palaces such as Palazzo Arciverscovile and Palazzo Vermexio (now the town hall), it always a pleasure to sit in and watch the world go by. Two minutes away, you’ll stumble upon the Galleria Regionale di Palazzo Bellomo, an art gallery housed inside a 13th-century Catalan-Gothic palace, housing the painting “Annunciation” by Antonello da Messina.
After a quick visit inside the gallery, make your way down to the coast to discover the Fonte Aretusa fountain and its legend. According to the myth, the nymph Aretusa fled to Siracusa to escape the unwanted advances of the god Alphaeus. The goddess Diana transformed her into a spring to save her from her from him.
Continue your stroll along the road that encircles the island, leading out to the 13th-century Castello Maniace, a defensive fort at the extreme tip of Ortigia.
Evening
At sunset, enjoy a walk along the Lungomare Alfeo promenade, on the western side of the island. You can sit at a bar and sip an aperitif, or enjoy the sunset along the raised Foro Vittorio Emanuele II platform, a few steps ahead.
For dinner, dine at A putia delle cose buone, a tiny restaurant serving delicious home-style food with hearty portions and nice vibes.
Overnight in Siracusa
While visiting Siracusa, spending the night in Ortigia is the obvious choice. The most important sights are there and it also offers the prettiest views with its narrow streets, whitewashed buildings, and an alluring setting on the sea.
Here are a few good hotel options:
Grand Hotel Ortigia - From €250 per night.
Algilà Ortigia Charme Hotel - Rooms typically cost €200.
Antico Hotel Roma - Nightly rates from €200.
Maison Ortigia B&B - €130 or less per night.
Day 5: Road trip to Vendicari Nature Reserve, Marazamemi, and Noto
Today, be sure to have your swimsuit in the car as you’ll have the chance for a dip at some of Sicily’s most beautiful beaches.
Depart Syracuse in the morning, heading straight to the Vendicari nature reserve. After exploring (and swimming), it’s on to lovely Marzamemi town for lunch, a wander, and another swim.
You’ll finish the day in Noto, the most brilliant jewel of the Sicilian Baroque.
Cathedral of San Nicolò in Noto
Morning
Just 45 minutes from Syracuse, the Vendicari Nature Reserve is your first stop of the day. It’s a wetland with a 7 km stretch of pristine coast lapped by emerald green waters. Here, walk along the paths leading to Greek ruins, a Byzantine church, a Swabian tower, and an old tuna fishery.
Give yourself enough time to also relax on the secluded Marianeddi beach (great snorkeling here) or join the locals crowding the long sandy San Lorenzo beach. Laze here a couple of hours before heading to the fishing village of Marzamemi, a 25-minute drive along the coast.
Marzamemi is simply charming, boasting a golden piazza flanked by old fishermen's houses (now hosting restaurants and shops), two tiny churches, a large tuna fishery, and a noble 17th-century palace once inhabited by the Prince of Villadorata.
Stop in town for lunch on the main piazza. Sit at Liccamuciula, a restaurant/boutique that serves delicious seafood (especially red tuna) and sells quality artisan crafts. After lunch, you can relax on the city beach and dive into the crystalline waters.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, head to Noto, 30 minutes from Marzamemi. You’ll stay overnight to enjoy the sunset here; trust me, it’s a special moment.
Once you get to town, enjoy the city center full of Baroque churches and palaces. The sheer density of stunning buildings in Noto is incredible. It is not by chance that the city is called “the Garden of Stone” and all around you the city flourishes with the best examples of Sicilian late Baroque style.
Start your stroll from Porta Reale, one of the original city gates and follow the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Along your walk, you’ll pass by a series of beautiful churches leading up to the cathedral of Saint Nicolò. Opposite the cathedral are a number of elegant palazzos with wrought iron balconies supported by grotesque Baroque masks and figured. Of them, Palazzo Ducezio is worth entering for a quick visit.
After, continue to the church of San Carlo and climb its bell tower for a great view over the city center. Nearby on Via Cavour you have three noble palaces: Palazzo Castelluccio, Palazzo Astuto, and Palazzo Trigona Cannicarao. If you were to climb the bell tower and enter all three palaces, budget 2 hours for your entire exploration.
For a break, grab a seat and watch the world go by at Caffè Sicilia, a 130-year-old café serving tasty local treats. I suggest ordering an almond granita, a sacottino filled with ricotta, or a Montezuma gelato (or all three) as you wait for the sun to set, casting a warm golden light all over the city.
Evening
You’re staying in Noto tonight, so do as the locals do and kick back and enjoy the quiet rhythm of this sleepy town. Sit leisurely and sip a cocktail or a coffee while children play in the piazza and retired gentlemen chat over games of cards.
Dine at Manna, a charming restaurant in a former prince’s wine cellar that serves good typical Sicilian cuisine.
Overnight in Noto
Noto’s historic center is quite compact and this is where you’ll want to stay. By staying central, you’ll be close to all the main attractions.
Seven Rooms Villadorata - Rooms from €350.
Q92 - Nightly rates are around €280.
Welcome Garden - A room for two is €100.
Novecento Siciliano B&B - A double room costs €80.
Day 6: Baroque jewels of the Val di Noto: Modica, Scicli, and Ragusa
The Val di Noto is the name given to a large swath of territory that comprises most of southeastern Sicily, about 1/3 of the entire island. It’s not an official administrative area, but it roughly begins at Catania and stretches all the way south, covering the coast and inland territories. The cities and towns of the region were almost all destroyed in the 1693 earthquake, and they were rebuilt in the same architectural style, which we’ve already mentioned.
South of Noto lie three beautiful small cities: Modica, Scicli, and Ragusa. Ragusa has, in recent years become quite famous thanks to the TV series “Inspector Montalbano”. Scenes from the show were filmed all around the region, including in both Modica and Scicli. Whether you're a fan of the tv series or not, you’ll discover lots to enjoy in the area.
Ragusa is the biggest of the three cities, split between its Baroque old town and a rather non-descript modern town above it. Modica is a pretty city of 50,000 full of Baroque architecture, pleasant, squares, and narrow pedestrian streets. Scicli, much smaller than both other cities, is another pretty Baroque gem worth a quick wander.
You’ll be sleeping in Ragusa tonight.
Ragusa Ibla at dusk
Morning
Pack your bags and hit the road for a day exploring some of the Val di Noto’s prettiest towns.
40 minutes from Noto, Modica is built on a steep gorge and split in two; Modica Alta (upper) and Modica Bassa (low). Modica Alta is the medieval center . The city is built on a steep gorge so it is split in two, Modica Alta (high) and Modica Bassa (down). The first one is the historic/medieval center, a crazy tangle of stairways and narrow alleys, while Modica Bassa is the “new” town.
On arrival to town, park the car and make your way down a set of stairs leading to the Duomo di San Giorgio, where you’ll have a fantastic view. Do not miss the small church of San Nicolò Inferiore, carved into the rock in the 12th century. You can also visit the home of native son and Nobel prize-winning poet Salvatore Quasimodo.
Ok, enough about history and art though how about a snack?! If that’s a yes, then head to the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, a historical pastry shop. Here you have to try the local chocolate which is still made how the Aztecs did it centuries ago. Why? Because Chocolate was introduced during Spanish rule on Sicily and the Spanish, of course, brought chocolate back to Europe from the Americas.
A visit to Modica only takes a couple of hours so you’ll still have time for a late morning visit to Scicli, just 15 minutes away. The town is squished between two ridges and still retains its medieval layout, even if it was reconstructed in Baroque style after the 1693 earthquake.
Take a stroll along Via Penna admiring Palazzo Spadaro, Palazzo Bonelli-Patanè, and the town hall (comune), home to the imaginary Vigàta police station in the Inspector Montalbano TV series. The nearby “Antica Farmacia” was another filming set. A few steps away, check out the iron balconies held by grotesque masks at Palazzo Beneventano. Figure that you’ll spend an hour to an hour and a half looking around.
For lunch, choose Baqqala, right in front of Palazzo Beneventano. It’s an informal eatery serving good local food such as an unforgettable anchovy parmigiana. Ask for an outdoor table.
Afternoon
After lunch hop back in the car and drive to Ragusa, 40 minutes from Scicli. Ragusa, like Modica, is split in two: Ragusa Superiore is the modern city, while Ragusa Ibla is the oldest part. Before reaching Ragusa Ibla (where you’ll be spending most of your time), you’ll cross Ragusa Superiore, so be sure to stop to visit the huge church of San Giovanni Battista.
Driving in Ragusa Ibla is a challenge, so plan to park just at its edge in Piazza della Repubblica or park in Ragusa Superior and then walk down the 129 steps that connect to the two sides of town. While more work, walking rewards you with amazing views over the historic center.
Once there, meander around the tiny lanes, admire Baroque palaces and churches, and discover hidden courtyards with unexpected wrought-iron balconies. Then head to the main square and admire the cathedral of San Giorgio, a Baroque masterpiece. Many scenes of the TV drama Inspector Montalbano were shot here.
On the same piazza, you can see the noble palace Arezzo di Trefiletti, a mid-1800 aristocrats’ club called Circolo di Conversazione, and the Donnafugata theater. Expect to spend about 2 hours wandering the old city center.
You’ll probably be done in Ibla by the late afternoon, so you’ll still have time to grab the car and explore Ragusa’s surrounding before dinner. I’d suggest a quick drive to Donnafugata castle to visit the impressive 14th-century palace that was rebuilt in the 19th century emplying an interesting blend of architectural styles.
According to legend, the name of the castle derives from the widow Queen Blanche of Navarre, imprisoned here by Count Bernardo Cabrera who wanted to marry her. The queen managed to escape, hence the name of the castle - “Donnafugata” - which means “the woman who fled”. Tours of the site take 45 minutes, but expect to spend an additional half hour in the surrounding park hosting… a labyrinth!
*If you’d like to skip the driving and have a guide show you around, reach out to Paolo, a local guide based in Noto who runs tours all around Eastern Sicily.
Evening
Enjoy a relaxed evening in Ragusa. Before a well-deserved rest, have a hearty dinner at La Bettola, a family-run restaurant offering traditional food. Do not miss a slice of grilled caciocavallo, a local cheese. It is usually served with homemade fig jam.
Overnight in Ragusa
If you’re traveling by car, Ragusa Superiore will be your best choice to stay as it’s easier to park. Moreover, staying there is usually a fair bit cheaper. The location is fine as you can quickly get down into Ibla by bus or on foot.
However, if you want the best atmosphere, Ragusa Ibla is simply much more fascinating, especially at night when the town empties and silence and wonder rule.
Locanda Don Serafino - Nightly rates from € 180.
Relais Antica Badia - Average nightly rate is about € 125. This is in Ragusa Superiore.
A.D. 1768 Boutique Hotel - A room for two costs € 110.
Neropece - Rooms cost € 100.
Day 7: Catania and the Riviera dei Ciclopi
Your round trip discovering eastern Sicily ends back in Catania so you’ll have the opportunity to deepen your knowledge of a city still underrated but full of surprises. Today you’ll have time to visit the bustling fish market, trace the footsteps of a famous composer, explore Catania’s underbelly, and see a castle surrounded by lava.
To perfectly round out your trip, you’ll spend the afternoon at two pretty seaside towns on the lovely Riviera dei Ciclopi, just north of the city.
Acitrezza town on the Riviera dei Ciclopi
Morning
The way back to Catania from Ragusa takes about two hours, so I’d recommend getting moving early. Once in Catania, spend an hour browsing the lively Piscaria fish market located in the heart of the city. The chaos and joy in the market is a summation of all that Catania is. There are dozens of restaurants here, but ee sure to stop at Scirocco to taste a fritturina: a paper cone full of freshly-fried seafood.
Next, follow in the footsteps of famed Catanese composer Vincenzo Bellini. Begin at his house house on Via Vittorio Emanuele, a 5-minute walk from the market. Continue along the street until you reach the Teatro Massimo Bellini theater, located on the eponymous square. It was built in neo-Baroque style and inaugurated in 1890 with a performance of “the Norma”, Bellini’s most-known opera. The theater is open for guided tours, which take 45 minutes.
A renowned local pasta, topped with aubergines and ricotta salata and called pasta alla Norma, is inspired by the same opera. Every trattoria in Catania serves it. So, try one for lunch at Vuciata, less than 10 minutes walking from the theater. Do not miss the chance to try their sarde a beccafico, sardines stuffed with pine nuts, herbs, raisins, and breadcrumbs.
Afternoon
Spend the start of your last afternoon going underground! Because of Catania’s proximity to Etna, over the centuries lava flows from eruptions have altered and influenced the city’s development, especially the course of its river, the Amenano. The city has been rebuilt repeatedly, and sections of it have been erected directly on top of earlier construction, leading to part of the river now being underground.
You can trace some of this “scaffolding” by visiting the Roman-era Achillian Baths which are located under the cathedral. The Romans used the waters from the Amenano for the baths, and you can see it flowing underground. On the other side of the square, you can see the Fontana dell’Amenano, where the river comes out.
Less than 5 minutes away, you’ll stumble upon the Pozzo di Gammazita, an old well linked to the legend of a Catanese girl who preferred to die by throwing herself inside it than to marry an occupying French soldier.
A few steps away is the Castello Ursino, a Swabian castle now housing art collections and temporary exhibitions. A fortress on a rocky promontory by the sea, the castle was built in the 13th century by the emperor Frederick II and is now surrounded by hardened lava from an eruption in 1669.
To soak up the last rays of blissful Sicilian sun, leave Catania behind for a few hours and go north of the city to the Riviera dei Ciclopi, a rocky stretch of 12 km of coast. There are a few pretty towns along the coastline, many of which feature in legends and myths from the time of the ancient Greeks.
I recommend stopping at the coastal town of Acitrezza (30 minutes from Catania driving or by bus 534) for a dive among the faraglioni (imposing rocks rising out of the sea) created by underwater eruptions. Legend has it that the Cyclops Polyphemus threw those great stones into the water in an attempt to stop Odysseus from escaping.
As there is no proper beach, you can chill out on a large wooden platform/boardwalk that is raised over a section of hard volcanic rocks, giving sunbathers a place to lie down. You can also take a boat trip to Lachea Island right in front of the town.
Before heading back to Catania, briefly stop at Acicastello, another coastal town lying between Acitrezza and Catania. Here, see the Norman castle built on a lava outcrop that covered a Roman fortification. Stop at the nearby chiosco (food vendor) for a refreshing granita or a seltz limone e sale, a Catanian thirst-quenching drink made from freshly squeezed lemons, seltzer water, and a pinch of salt.
Evening
End your day dining at L’iska, a small yet lovely restaurant serving mainly fish. It is located near the fish market, not far from Castello Ursino. The street outside the restaurant has a canopy of colorful umbrellas strung above it, making it very charming to walk down (and eat on!).
If you’re up for an after-dinner drink, stop at Gammazita and toast to a wonderful trip!
Overnight in Catania
For some hotel options, see my suggestions provided under day 1.
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