Travel Guide to Santander, Spain
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Nestled on the northern coast of Spain, Santander is a charming port city and the vibrant capital of Cantabria. Dubbed "the bride of the sea," Santander boasts a captivating blend of elegant architecture, mountain vistas, and golden beaches.
While it's exterior may be modest, this city surprises visitors with its rich history and dynamic atmosphere, as well as the spectacular setting nestled against one of the prettiest natural harbors in Europe.
While it may not immediately dazzle like other Spanish destinations, Santander's allure lies in its atmospheric plazas, majestic belle-époque buildings, and inviting seaside promenades.
Despite the scars of a devastating fire in 1941, modern Santander embraces its forward-facing outlook, while the blend of culture, history, and natural beauty make it a great destination for travelers looking to experience a different side of Spain.
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Why visit?
Santander is one of Spain’s hidden gems that many people skip over. Its main appeal lies in the spectacular natural surroundings – the city is cradled on one side of what is largely considered one of Spain’s most beautiful bays. That also means that the city has some incredible beaches dotted around the bay and peninsula; wide, golden strips of sand that are famed among Spaniards and no one else.
The history of Santander is also an interesting draw. It’s a story well-known throughout Europe: a favorable location (in this case the wonderful bay) means that it was a much sought after strategic city.
The Romans were here, and then Santander became a part of the Kingdom of Asturias, resisting the Moorish invaders as they swept across most of Spain.
Then the Spanish Royals took interest, marking it as a destination of aristocratic importance, and summers were spent enjoying the milder weather and stunning beaches. That aristocratic air lives on, as many of Spain’s well-to-do left Madrid for Santander, giving the city a bit of a regal air left over from the Belle Epoque.
Finally, the food scene in Santander is fiercely proud, and can easily rival that of a larger city. Tapas here of course focuses on the fresh seafood plucked from the Atlantic, so expect lots of specialties surrounding octopus, fish, and anything else that can be plucked from the sea.
All in all, the combination of great food, laid-back Spanish culture, excellent city beaches, and wonderful art and architecture makes Santander a wonderful place to spend a few days.
Where is Santander?
Santander is nestled on the narrow coastline along the southern shore of Cape Mayor, a rocky peninsula extending eastward and sheltering Santander Bay, an inlet of the Bay of Biscay.
It’s located on the northern coast of Spain, approximately 60 miles west of Bilbao and 280 miles north of Madrid.
Santander is the capital of the autonomous community of Cantabria. The coastline here is fantastic, known for its wide, sweeping beaches of golden sand and Atlantic surf.
Inland, the rolling green hills lead up to the Cantabrian Mountain range, stretching across the north of Spain and acting as a geographical border between the lush northern coast and the vast central plateau of Spain.
How to get here
Arriving by air
Santander’s airport is a surprisingly well-connected place. There are international flights to places like London, Dublin, Rome, Brussels, Marrakech, and plenty of others. It’s also served by regular domestic flights, making it easy to get here with a connection through either Madrid or Barcelona.
Taking the train or bus from Madrid
From Madrid’s Chamartín train station, three trains a day make the journey to Santander in just over 4 hours, with tickets costing between €35 and €55.
Buses also make the trip at least seven times a day (including an overnight trip), taking approximately 5 hours and 45 minutes. Tickets cost between €36 and €56.
Train or bus from Bilbao
Bilbao, 60 miles to the east in the Basque Country, is also a good choice of arrival destination if you’re planning on either catching a train or bus onward.
The bus is the best option from here, with departures every hour or so throughout the day and takes just 1 hour and 30 minutes to reach Santander, costing on average around €8.
Trains are also a good option, although they’re slower than the bus. The Feve railway (an old narrow-gauge track) traverses the entire northern coast in one of Spain’s most picturesque train journeys.
If you’ve got some extra time on your hands, the 3 hours and 10 minutes it takes between Bilbao and Santander is a scenic ride through green fields, past mountains, and across sparkling bays.
There are three departures per day – tickets must be bought in person at the station (costing between €8 and €11), and they only go on sale a couple of hours before the train’s departure.
By ferry from England
Finally, Santander is also connected by ferry to Portsmouth in the United Kingdom, operated by Brittany Ferries. The ferry departs twice a week and takes somewhere between 28 and 31 hours to cross.
Renting a car
Renting a car in Spain is a breeze as you have rental agencies in almost all airports and most medium and large cities. Road conditions are good all over the country and the highway network is extensive. Rental prices are also relatively cheap.
If you’ll be picking up your car in Santander, you have loads of options. Most rental agencies have their offices at Santander airport, so if you’e not arriving by plane just know that you’ll need to get a taxi or hop a bus out there to get your car.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars. It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
Where to stay
Santander is small and not particularly popular with international tourists (although it is with Spaniards), so staying in the center is usually the right choice as it comes with few of the drawbacks of staying central in more popular cities. You’ll find very little in the way of crowds or tourist traps here, which is wonderfully refreshing.
In the center, you have two options; you can either stay in the main downtown area near the port and train station (the area is commonly referred to as Puerto Chico) or you can look a bit further away along El Sardinero beach. It’s really just a question of whether you prefer a more central location or being by the beach.
Gran Hotel Sardinero - This is the classic choice for all out luxury near the beach. It’s Santander’s classiest option, all Art Nouveau style with a very grand “Old World” feel. Rates start at around $150 a night.
Hotel Bahía - Although not real charming from the outside, Hotel Bahia has very pleasant rooms that are spacious, immaculate, and well appointed. Located in Puerto Chico, you’re just steps away from both the port and city center. Rooms from $140 USD.
Vincci Puertochico - The Vincci group is an upper mid-range hotel chain with properties across Spain and Portugal. As a rule, they’re a bit formulaic, but design-forward, comfortable, and very well done. This one is just outside the heart of the city center, and about halfway towards El Sardinero beach. Nightly rates from $140 USD.
Abba Santander Hotel - Right in the heart of town, the rooms here are pleasant enough and very affordable. Its location is very central, between the train station, the seafront promenade, and the city center. Rooms usually cost $80 a night.
Hotel Chiqui - At the far end of Sardinero beach, with modern, clean rooms, ocean views, and a rooftop pool. It’s a good deal at $80 USD a night.
How long to spend in the city
Las Llamas Park. Photo: Emilio Gómez, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The average traveler can comfortably explore Santander's key attractions in 2 days. On your first day in the city, you can enjoy strolling along the seafront promenade Paseo de Pereda, explore the main squares in the city center and see some gems like the Santander Cathedral and Plaza de Porticada, and visit the impressive Centro Botín, perched overlooking the water.
With a second day, you’ll also have time to visit either the excellent Museum of Prehistory and Archaeology, or the Maritime Museum, stroll out along the Penίnsula de la Magdalena, and enjoy some time at El Sardinero beach.
Here’s a complete itinerary for your two potential days in the city:
Day 1 - explore the historic center
Start off your trip to Santander with a stroll along the seafront Paseo de Pereda promenade, getting a feel for the city vibes and enjoying the stellar views across the water.
Stop for a coffee in one of the cafés that line the promenade, enjoy some time in the green Jardines de Pereda.
Then, the central sights, including the Cathedral of Santander, the impressive Plaza de Porticada, and the Church of the Anunciación.
Take your pick of tapas restaurants in the town for lunch – it’s quite hard to go wrong here.
After lunch, head back to the seafront for the Center Botín, the city’s premier cultural institution filled with interesting art displays. Don’t forget to take in the views from the rooftop for even more eye-candy.
Afterwards, the nearby port area has frequent boat trips either around or across the bay, making for a nice excursion before dinner.
Try for dinner at one of Santander’s popular restaurants: Bodega Fuente Dé or Bodega Cigaleña both come highly recommended.
Fuente Dé is particularly famous for its mountain dishes. If you fancy kicking on a bit, it’s hard to beat Plaza Cañadío for some drinks.
Day 2 - Food market, Peninsula de Magdalena, and El Sardinero beach
Head over to the city’s major marketplace, the Mercado de la Esperanza, and stock up on some local goodies for a picnic lunch.
Then, make the long walk (or catch a cab) onto the Peninsula de Magdalena, with plenty of shady lawn space to spread out and enjoy your purchases from the morning alongside some incredible sea views.
If you like, you can also poke your head inside the Magdalena Palace (paid admission), former summer getaway for the Spanish royals.
El Sardinero Beach is surely one of the finest city beaches in the world, and it might be a blessing that more people don’t know about it – we don’t want this turning into the next Barceloneta or Bondi.
Enjoy the soft sand and colder water (this is the Atlantic and not the Mediterranean) for a while after lunch.
Then cross back to the southern side and head back into the main part of town to visit the Maritime Museum of Cantabria, showcasing the region’s seafaring heritage.
If you’ve got another museum in you, the Museum of Prehistory and Archaeology offers an excellent look into the region’s impressive history.
It’s located in the same building as the Mercado del Este, which just so happens to be a lovely spot to pull up a stool at one of the bars and enjoy some pintxos.
What to see & do
1. Stake out a spot of sand on El Sardinero Beach
El Sardinero Beach in Santander must be one of the finest city beaches in the world. Locals would be lost without this huge sweep of sand facing the Atlantic.
There are surf schools here, and plenty of space (even in the busy summer) to spread your towel and spend some time soaking up the warm, sunny days.
El Sardinero beach
2. Take in the views from the Peninsula de Magdalena
One of Santander’s most well-known attractions is the Peninsula de Magdalena, home to a gorgeous palace that was the former summer getaway of the Spanish Royal Family.
The peninsula is also worth visiting even without exploring the interior of the palace. Leafy meadows, coastal paths, and manicured parks are all ideal spots to take in the dramatic views of the sea.
Magdalena Peninsula
3. Get your culture on at El Centro Botín
The Centro Botín is Santander’s beacon of contemporary arts and culture, a marvel of modern architecture perched on the city’s waterfront like a futuristic spaceship.
Designed by the renowned Italian architect Renzo Piano, who also crafted Paris’ Centre Pompidou and London’s Shard, the building captivates with its 280,000 shimmering ceramic discs, reflecting the seascapes and sky.
Inside, the center boasts 2,500 square meters of gallery space dedicated to a diverse array of international contemporary art.
Centro Botín. Photo: Alonso de Mendoza, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Explore the historic sights of the city center
While most of the historic buildings in Santander were unfortunately lost to a devastating fire in 1941, there are some that survived and are worth checking out.
Start off your city center explorations at the Plaza Porticada, a beautiful, arcaded square.
From here, turn west and you’ll find the Church of the Anunciación, the regal Town Hall building, and the impressive Cathedral of Santander, one of the few buildings that have survived since the Middle Ages.
Santander’s cathedral. Photo: Fernando, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
5. Ramble through the Jardines and Paseo de Pereda
The Paseo de Pereda is a scenic seafront promenade that offers jaw-dropping views across the bay. Elegant 19th-century buildings adorn the street, with the ground level given over to lively cafés and restaurants.
The entire area is made even better thanks to the Jardines de Pereda near the cathedral, a beautiful area of leafy walkways, green lawn, and flowerbeds.
The Jardines de Pereda. Photo: Jesús Gómez Fernández, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Browse the stalls at Mercado de la Esperanza
The Mercado de la Esperanza, Santander’s historic marketplace, is a treasure trove of local delicacies. Established in 1904, this architectural gem made from stone, iron, and glass spans two bustling floors.
Around 80 stalls display the best of the region’s produce, from the catch of the day to artisanal cheeses, charcuterie meats, and fresh fruit and vegetables. The perfect spot for some picnic supplies.
Mercado de la Esperanza. Photo: Emilio Gómez Fernández, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Enjoy a night of tapas and drinks at Plaza Cañadío
In the city center, there’s one major hub of tapas and drinks where you’ll find a huge crowd of locals every evening: Plaza Cañadío. Nestled next to the Iglesia de Santa Lucia, it’s packed with cool bars to check out and enjoy some lively Spanish vibes.
Most bars have tables on the square, letting you enjoy an alfresco drink and some tapas if the weather cooperates.
8. Catch the ferry to Playa de El Puntal
El Sardinero isn’t the only beach you’ll find in Santander – the city is riddled with beautiful strips of sand that provide ample opportunities for swimming, sunbathing, and watersports.
Playa de El Puntal is a local favorite, reached via a ferry from the main harbor area in Santander. This long sandy peninsula juts out into the middle of the bay, ringed by golden sand and featuring a lively chiringuito (beach bar) in the middle.
Playa de El Puntal. Photo: Luis Fermín TURIEL PEREDO, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
9. Learn about Santander’s seafaring history at the Maritime Museum
With such an impressive natural harbor, it’s immediately clear to visitors that Santander must have a strong maritime heritage. Learn all about it at the Maritime Museum of Cantabria, offering an extensive look at the region’s bond with the sea.
Exhibits span natural history, archaeology, cartography, and shipbuilding.
10. Enjoy pintxos inside El Mercado del Este
If you’re in the mood for pintxos – the Basque-style of tapas where different ingredients are skewered onto a slice of baguette – make sure to check out El Mercado del Este.
It’s located in the city center, and features a clutch of specialty shops selling wine, cheese, and local gourmet products as well as a handful of pintxo bars where you can pull up a stool for a bite to eat.
11. Check out Spain’s best outdoor zoo, the Cabárceno Wildlife Park
Cabárceno Natural Park, 18km south of Santander, is an expansive 750 hectares wildlife sanctuary, an open-air zoo dedicated to conservation and innovation. Inside the park, a wide variety of species from European bison to jaguars to white rhinoceroses are thriving in conditions akin to their natural habitats.
The park’s design allows visitors to embark on a self-driven safari, navigating 20km of roadways that meander through the free-range enclosures.
For a unique vantage point, there are also two cable cars that take to the skies, providing an aerial perspective of the animals below.
Brown bears at the Zoo. Photo: Mixnu, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
12. Visit the Museum of Prehistory and Archaeology of Cantabria
This part of Spain is famous for being home to some of the most significant archaeological finds in Europe – most notably, the Altamira Cave to the west of the city, where a 15,000-year-old cave painting of bison was discovered.
The Museum of Prehistory and Archaeology of Cantabria elegantly presents the region’s rich archaeological narrative through interactive multimedia displays, spanning from the Upper Paleolithic era to the Iron Age.
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