Travel Guide to San Sebastian, Spain - Basque Country's Most Beautiful City
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San Sebastian – or Donostia in the local Euskera language – is one of Spain’s most popular smaller cities. Located on the coast of the Spanish Basque Country, this gem of a destination is home to gorgeous urban beaches, an easy-going way of life, and some truly spectacular natural surrounds.
Despite its popularity with the tourist crowds, San Sebastian is not a place to avoid. With a history stretching back thousands of years, a unique Basque culture, elegant architecture, and some of the finest cuisine in the world, there’s a lot of reasons to include San Sebastian on a Spanish itinerary. It’s one of Spain’s original summer resort towns, but despite its popularity, this is a place that has retained its allure.
Whether it’s a culinary pilgrimage, a surfing trip, or to discover the unique Basque culture, San Sebastian is always a good idea.
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Table of Contents
Why visit?
Where is San Sebastian
How to get there
How long to spend
Things to see & do
How to spend 2 days in San Sebastian
Local help with your planning
San Sebastian is one of Spain’s most charming cities and it deserves a place on any itinerary touching the north of the country. All around it, the mountains, valleys, and stunning coast of the north also beckon and you could easily spend a few weeks just exploring the Basque Country. And you should!
If you could use some help figuring out where to go, what to do, and how to fit it all into your plan, consider scheduling a Spain travel consultation with our San Sebastian-based Local Expert Alfonso!
These are one-hour Zoom calls where you’ll get to chat with Alfonso about the trip you’re planning and he’ll share his tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.
Why visit?
San Sebastian holds an undeniable allure, drawing visitors with its ancient heritage, rich culture, and culinary delights. Renowned as one of the foodie capitals of the world, the city boasts fresh produce sourced from the Atlantic and surrounding mountains, offering a variety of delights at its vibrant markets.
That same produce also finds its way into the numerous Michelin-starred restaurants like Akelarre, Arzak, and Martín Berasategui, as well as the ordinary taverns sprinkled liberally across the city. Even the simplest of restaurants here offer food that is elevated above pretty much anywhere else in Europe, and food enthusiasts from around the world mark the city as a major pilgrimage destination.
At the heart of San Sebastian's culinary scene are its pintxo bars, the Basque-style of tapas where ingredients are piled atop slices of bread and held together by a skewer. Toppings can be anything – from the classics like jamon or a deep-fried croquette to more elaborate creations involving high-end ingredients and creative flair.
The city's old town is renowned for its bustling pintxo bars, where patrons can savor a variety of delectable bites before moving onto the next restaurant. Beyond its culinary offerings, San Sebastian's architecture and natural beauty captivate visitors, with elegant streets, manicured gardens, and three stunning, sandy beaches protected by rugged promontories.
As part of the Basque Country, San Sebastian's strong cultural heritage and sense of identity further make it a place worth visiting. The Basques have unique customs, speak Europe’s oldest language, and have a calendar full of interesting festivals. Overall, San Sebastian's blend of culinary excellence, cultural richness, and scenic beauty make it one of Spain’s most visited smaller cities.
Where is San Sebastian?
San Sebastian is nestled along the picturesque coastline of Spain's Basque Country, in the northeast corner of the country just 12 miles from the French border. Located in the province of Gipuzkoa, the city is positioned within the autonomous community of the Basque Country, renowned for its distinct culture, language, and cuisine.
The location on the coast means that San Sebastian is perched on the southern side of the Bay of Biscay, part of the Atlantic Ocean. The coastline is a big draw, with secretive coves and wide sandy beaches in either direction. Inland from the city, there are lush green hills, while head to the French border and you’ll be at the far western end of the Pyrenees Mountain chain.
The nearest major city (and airport) is Bilbao, located approximately 60 miles to the west. Further afield, the Spanish capital of Madrid is around 280 miles to the south.
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How to get there
From Bilbao
The largest nearby city to San Sebastian is Bilbao, further west along the coast. From Bilbao’s Abando station, the Basque-owned trains called Euskotren depart every hour for San Sebastian. The journey takes about 3 hours – sometimes even more – with ticket prices costing between €6 and €10. It’s a scenic journey, so if you’re not in a rush, it’s a nice way to travel. Trains run regularly between 6:00 AM and 10:30 PM from Bilbao.
The bus is far more efficient, taking only 1 hour and 15 minutes to deliver you into San Sebastian. There are two companies that offer the route: ALSA and Lurralde Bus. The latter offers regular departures (every hour or even half hour) between 6:30 AM and 10:30 PM, while the former has a departure every hour or so between 7:30 AM and 8:20 AM. Ticket prices are similar for both companies, falling somewhere between €10 and €20 depending on your departure time.
By car, it’s an easy drive to San Sebastian from Bilbao, all along the AP-8 highway for 1 hour and 15 minutes.
Once you’re in the city, street parking is available but limited and uses a pay and display system (there are machines on the street where you can buy your ticket). However, there are also time limits on street parking, so you can only stay there for about 2–3 hours. Therefore, it’s recommended to park in one of the paid parking garages, such as Kontxa (for La Concha Beach), Kursaal (for Zurriola Beach), Okendo (for the new town), or Boulevard (for the old town).
From Madrid
From Madrid, San Sebastian is about 5 hours by car, but there are also three trains a day and several buses that depart every hour or so in the morning and later in the afternoon. The journey via trains takes about 4 hours and 55 minutes and costs somewhere between €40 and €60, while the bus takes about 5 hours and 30 minutes and costs between €30 and €50.
From Barcelona
From Barcelona, it takes closer to 6 hours to drive to San Sebastian. There’s also one train a day that takes 5 hours and 45 minutes, costing between €50 and €70. One bus a day (except Saturdays) also makes the journey from Barcelona and takes approximately 6 hours and 50 minutes, with tickets costing between €35 and €50.
Where to buy train and bus tickets
I always recommend buying your public transport tickets directly from the service provider (like Renfe for most trains in Spain), but it can be tedious to research all the different options and compare prices.
Omio is an online aggregator that shows all the different public transportation options for getting somewhere. You can check train and bus options from a host of different providers all in one place. Buying tickets through the site costs a tiny bit more than booking direct, but their website is easy to use and very convenient.
Where to rent a car
Renting a car in Spain is a breeze as you have rental agencies in almost all airports and most medium and large cities. Road conditions are good all over the country and the highway network is extensive. Rental prices are also relatively cheap.
San Sebastian has a good selection of rental companies, both in the city center and at the airport just outside of town. That said, for the most options, you’ll want to rent a car in Bilbao.
To check prices and book, I recommend using the following two car rental websites:
DiscoverCars includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
RentalCars is very similar, although they tend to list mostly larger companies. It’s now owned by Booking.com, so is backed by a familiar and reputable brand. Their prices are good too.
How long to spend in San Sebastian
While San Sebastian is a smaller city, there’s so much to see and do (and eat) that you really want to spend at least two days here.
On your first day, you’ll be able to visit the old town, stop by one of the beaches for a swim, and maybe check out the San Telmo Museum as well as feast on plenty of pintxos for lunch and dinner. With a second day in the city, you’ll also be able to explore Mount Urgull, stop by the gardens at the Miramar Palace, visit another museum or the Aquarium, and then catch a taxi out to one of the cider houses in the hills behind town.
Where to stay
For overnight stays, hotels in the old town put you in the thick of the action. Here are some I like:
Hotel SANSEbay is a wonderful choice, located in a quiet corner of the old town (which is especially important) with views over the bay. Prices are moderate for San Sebastian at $125-250 USD per night.
Hotel de Londres de Inglaterra is one of the city’s grandest hotels, housed within an elegant 19th century building overlooking the bay. It’s located in a good area, just south of La Concha Beach. Nightly rates start at $110 USD, rising to $300 in the peak of high season.
Sercotel Hotel Europa is still quite nice, but a bit more affordable. It’s also near La Concha Beach. Expect to pay $100 - 200 USD depending on the season.
What to see & do in San Sebastian
1. Go for a Pintxo Crawl in Parte Vieja
Pintxos, the delectable bite-sized snacks unique to Spain's Basque region, are meticulously crafted to be enjoyed alongside drinks with friends at local bars.
You’ll find the most popular pintxo taverns in the Parte Vieja, the gorgeous old town where locals like to wander between places, eating and drinking as they go. Join them for a night you won’t forget.
2. Stretch out on the Sand at La Concha Beach
Playa de la Concha is San Sebastian’s famous city beach, effortlessly checking off all the criteria for a perfect strip of sand. During the summer, the beach is one of the most popular in Europe, and there’s a festive and lively atmosphere.
The swimming conditions are consistently safe, thanks in part to the Isla de Santa Clara in the middle of the bay protecting the beach from big Atlantic swell.
La Concha beach
3. Admire the Peine del Viento Sculpture
One of Santander’s most well-known attractions is the Peninsula de Magdalena, home to a gorgeous palace that was the former summer getaway of the Spanish Royal Family.
The peninsula is also worth visiting even without exploring the interior of the palace. Leafy meadows, coastal paths, and manicured parks are all ideal spots to take in the dramatic views of the sea.
4. Enjoy the Gardens at Miramar Royal Palace
Historically San Sebastian has served as the beloved summer getaway of the Spanish Royal Family, thanks to its beaches and pleasant climate. To enjoy their summers to the fullest, they commissioned the construction of Palacio de Miramar in 1889, enlisting the expertise of English architect Selden Wornum.
This magnificent palace, designed in an English Tudor style with a striking octagonal tower, offers breathtaking panoramic views of the bay. While the palace itself remains private, you can still explore its meticulously maintained gardens. It's a perfect spot to relax, appreciate the scenery, and enjoy a picnic lunch.
Palacio Miramar. Photo: Generalpoteito, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
5. Surf the Waves at Zurriola Beach
Passionate surfers from all corners of the globe flock to Playa de la Zurriola, lured by its exceptional waves. This is San Sebastian’s other city beach, and one that holds a special place in the hearts of sports enthusiasts.
With no island in the bay to protect from the Atlantic swells, the surf here is famous, and at any given time of year you’ll find plenty of people in the water. In the streets of Gros, the beach neighborhood, you’ll find plenty of surf schools where you can reserve some lessons or simply rent a board and get out on the water.
6. Enjoy the Views from Monte Urgull
Walking up to the peak of Monte Urgull is a must-do when visiting San Sebastian. Standing at 123 meters, the mountain is accessible on foot from out the back of the Parte Vieja, with the lanes behind the Basilica de Santa María del Coro leading you up onto the leafy and quiet mountain. The ascent is easy-going, with the path largely enveloped in shade, providing a serene escape from the bustle of the old town.
As you climb, you’ll encounter the modest castle walls of the Castillo de la Mota and a magnificent Christ statue that crowns the summit. The views from the top are what you’re here for, offering a panoramic vista of the city and the surrounding landscapes.
Monte Urgull, seen from across the bay
7. Catch a Ferry to Isla de Santa Clara
Situated 750 meters away from the shores of Playa de la Concha, this charming islet can be reached by boats that operate every 30 minutes from the fishing port during the summer months.
When the tide recedes, the island enjoys a small beach of its own, and visitors can explore the island’s tree-lined trails to turn up a quaint lighthouse, a restaurant, and plenty of picnic tables as well, making it a perfect spot for a leisurely day out in the warmer months.
8. Take in the Sights of the Old Town
The heart of San Sebastián is without a doubt the Parte Vieja, the city's Old Town. This labyrinthine of charming cobblestone streets is ideal for aimless strolls, where you can turn up boutique stores, exquisite examples of architecture, soaring Gothic cathedrals, and restaurant-lined squares. The history of this part of the city dates to medieval times, although much of the area was reconstructed following a devastating fire in 1813.
Major landmarks to check out in the Old Town include the San Telmo Museum, the Gothic Church of St. Vincente, the Baroque beauty of Santa María del Coro Basilica, and the Plaza de la Constitución, a former bullring turned charming city square.
Catedral del Buen Pastor in San Sebastian’s city center
9. Catch the Funicular Up Monte Igueldo
The views from the summit of Monte Igueldo (181m), the promontory on the western end of town, are stunning. Unfolding beneath you, the picturesque coastline dwindles into the distance, while the mountains loom large inland.
The best part about getting up here though is that you can take the old-fashioned funicular railway, terminating at the Parque de Atracciones at the top of the hill, ideal if you’re travelling with little ones. If not, instead head to the terrace for a drink with a view at Bar Azotea 1911.
10. Stroll Through the Cristina Enea Park
The Parque de Cristina Enea is a leafy and green retreat beloved by locals, and well worth checking out on a hot day. Established by the Duke of Mandas as a tribute to his wife, this meticulously designed park is renowned as the city's best, featuring an array of decorative flora, graceful ducks and peacocks, and expansive green spaces.
Its picturesque paths offer plenty of opportunities for leisurely walks, winding through towering trees and areas of outstanding natural beauty.
Parque de Cristina Enea. Photo: Carlos Cunha, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
11. Enjoy a Traditional Meal and Local Cider at a Cider House
Nestled in the hills of San Sebastian, you’ll find an abundance of local cider houses. These expansive, tavern-style establishments offer a unique opportunity to savor traditional meals prepared by the local community. The culinary experience typically features pimientos (cod with roasted red peppers), and txuleta (aged local beef).
Complementing the meal is the region’s signature cider, ceremoniously dispensed from giant barrels situated within the premises, poured from a height to properly aerate the drink and bring out its flavors and aromas.
12. Tour the city with expert local guide Alfonso!
Whether you’ll be in San Sebastian for a few days or a few hours, there’s no better way to get an introduction to the city than on a tour with Alfonso, a local guide born and raised in San Sebastian.
Alfonso offers different ways to explore San Sebastian and its surroundings, including walking tours, hikes, bike rides, and gastronomic experiences. Passionate about his region and city, he specializes in active tours focused on the history, culture, language, and cuisine of the Basque Country.
Find tour details here.
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How to spend 2 days in San Sebastian
Day 1
Start off your explorations in the Parte Vieja, taking in the sights of this atmospheric part of the city. There’s the main square, Plaza de la Constitución, that was formerly a bullring (look for the number still on the buildings that designated the box seating), the impressive Gothic Cathedral of St. Vincente, and the baroque Basilica of Santa Maria.
Aside from that, the streets are simply wonderful for getting lost in, turning up secretive squares and an abundance of pintxo taverns where you can have lunch.
After lunch, head to either La Concha Beach for a swim or Zurriola for a surf – both also provide plenty of room to laze the afternoon away on your towel. If it’s raining, the Museo San Telmo is a fantastic look at Basque history and culture through historical artefacts, contemporary art, and visual displays.
Catch the sunset on the sea wall that sits at the western end of Zurriola Beach before once again diving into the old town for a pintxo crawl. At night, the place turns into one big party, with the streets overflowing with locals and tourists eating and drinking.
Day 2
On the morning of your second day, make the walk up to Monte Urgull, exploring the castle walls on top and enjoying the views over the beaches and Isla de Santa Clara. As you make your way down, continue your walk along the beach promenade, making your way to the western end of the sand where the Miramar Palace is nestled among some gorgeous gardens.
For lunch, behind the Miramar Palace is the Antiguo neighborhood, which is actually the oldest part of Donostia (it’s not the Old Town).
Then, you could walk out to the headland to check out the Comb of the Wind sculpture overlooking the sea, or head back into the city centre for a stroll through the tranquil Cristina Enea Park. The fantastic city Aquarium on the harbor is also an option.
On your last evening in San Sebastian, catch a taxi to one of the cider houses located in the hills outside of the city. You’ll get to enjoy a wonderful meal and enjoy a tipple of the local cider. Petritegi comes highly recommended, but reservations are strongly recommended.
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