A Local’s Guide to Ragusa, Sicily
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It is no coincidence that Ragusa, a city split into two parts and separated by a deep ravine, is known as the City of Two Souls. Ragusa Superiore (the upper town) and Ragusa Ibla (the lower one) are connected by a steep stairway, and distinctly different one from the other. Ragusa Superiore is the modern city, which sits on a hill. Ibla is the historic center further down the ravine.
When the 1693 earthquake razed the entire Val di Noto region, Ibla collapsed and the new town was built on higher ground. Nonetheless, Ragusa’s nobles, who owned ancient buildings in Ibla, decided to rebuild them, but this time in Baroque style, right on the original site; a ridge at the bottom of a gorge.
For almost two centuries the cities existed as separate entities. In 1927 they were merged, but each side still remains starkly different. Ragusa Superiore has a grid pattern and a more rational layout, while Ibla is a maze of alleyways and stairs.
In recent years, Ragusa has become famous due to the writer Andrea Camilleri whose Inspector Montalbano books (now adapted for TV) are set here and along the nearby picturesque coastline.
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Ragusa planning cheatsheet
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My favorite hotels in Ragusa
- A.D. 1768 Boutique - stylish blend of old and new in the heart of Ragusa Ibla. $150/night
- Relais Antica Badia - elegant rooms in a renovated 18th century palazzo. $150/night
- Neropece - charming guesthouse in the old town. $120/night
- Intervallo Hotel - modern boutique B&B overlooking Ragusa Ibla. $120/night
- B&B L'Orto Sul Tetto - cheerful little hotel for a good price. $100/night
Guided tours and activities
- Walking tour of Ragusa (small group)
- Day trip to Siracusa and Noto (private)
- Following the footsteps of Inspector Montalbano
- Sicilian cooking class
- Val di Noto day trip: Ragusa, Modica, & Noto
How to get around
- Car rentals with DiscoverCars
- Train tickets from Trenitalia
- Bus routes at AST, Tumino, and BusBud
Plan your itinerary with a local
If you could use some help planning your Sicily itinerary, consider scheduling a Sicily travel consultation with our Palermo-based Local Expert, Gaetano.
These are one-hour Zoom calls where you’ll get to chat with Gaetano about the trip you’re planning and he’ll share his tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.
Why visit
Like other towns in this part of Sicily, Ragusa was utterly devastated during the 1693 earthquake, but it too rose from the ashes even more beautiful than before. Its historic center is filled with Baroque buildings, quaint homes with tiny balconies, and tight alleyways.
One of the best things to do in Ragusa is to walk through its charming historic center and spot stunning Baroque facades, imposing churches, and impressive wrought-iron balconies decorated with depictions of strange and quirky figures. The Duomo di San Giorgio is considered a Baroque masterpiece. If you are discovering the Baroque beauties of the Val di Noto, Ragusa is a must visit.
Being a lesser-known UNESCO site, Ragusa rarely has throngs of tourists among its narrow streets, so it is perfect if you are looking for a destination full of beauty, but quieter. Furthermore, the city is surrounded by hills and valleys, offering breath-taking views. It is also an excellent starting point for exploring the region's beaches and many nearby Baroque towns.
Where is Ragusa?
Photo: Hel-hama, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ragusa lies on the Hyblaean Hills above the gorge of the Irminio river, in the southeastern part of Sicily. It’s 250 km from Palermo, 100 km from Catania, and just 90 km from Syracuse.
The city is part of the Val di Noto region which is a historical and geographic area that covers a swath of Sicily’s southeast. In 2002 the region became listed as a UNESCO Heritage site as “representing the culmination and final flowering of Baroque art in Europe”. Other Baroque cities like Noto, Modica, and Scicli, all of which were also destroyed during the 1693 earthquake and then rebuilt, are also part of the region.
The territory around Ragusa is cut by deep ravines and the town itself is built on a steep hill surrounded by three valleys. Outside the city, the countryside is known for its white stone walls that outline olive and carob groves and countless nearby beaches, which are among the most scenic in Sicily.
In the vicinity of Ragusa, you can also see Donnafugata castle, the Baroque town of Scicli, Modica’s labyrinthine alleys, the impressive gorge of Cava d'Ispica, and much more. So much more! When you come to Ragusa you start off thinking you’re just visiting a city but then discover countless additional treasures all around it.
How to get here
By Plane
If flying into Sicily and heading straight for Ragusa, the nearest airport is Comiso airport, located in the town of Comiso about 15 km from Ragusa. However, it is a small regional airport and served mainly by low-cost domestic routes and just a handful of international flights from European cities.
Catania airport, 90 km away, offers far more routes and much more frequent service. You can also take a direct bus from Catania airport to Ragusa. Palermo airport is about 200 km away, but public transport to Ragusa will involve a change (likely in Catania) and its a long drive.
No matter where you fly to in Sicily, if you’re coming from outside of Europe you’ll need to make a connection somewhere in Europe or mainland Italy.
Public transport
Ragusa Superiore has a bus and railway station. In general, buses are more frequent and more reliable than the train.
If you fly into Comiso airport, you can take the local AST bus direct to Ragusa superior. The ride takes 30 minutes and costs € 2-5.
If coming from Catania, direct buses via Etna Trasporti connect Catania airport to Ragusa. The trip takes takes a little under 2 hours and costs € 8.60.
From elsewhere in southeastern Sicily, the AST bus company runs routes to/from Ragusa and Modica, Scicli, Noto, and Syracuse.
To get to Ragusa’s nearby beaches, the Tumino company runs a bus that stops at Marina di Ragusa, Punta Secca, and Kamarina.
In Summer, you can rely on the Treno del Barocco, a special train that connects Syracuse, Ragusa, and other nearby Baroque towns, and also the Donnafugata castle. You can find routes and tickets on the Fondazione FS Italiane website.
Within Ragusa proper, a local bus connects Ragusa Superiore to Ibla (it stops at the entrance to the old town - Giardino Ibleo). Take lines 11 and 33 Monday to Saturday and line 1 on Sundays.
By car
Ragusa is a great base for a few days as part of a longer Sicily road trip, so it really is advisable to rent a car when visiting.
From Catania, the drive to Ragusa is 104 km and takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes. From Palermo, the 210 km stretch can be done in 2.5 hours. In both cases, the roads are in good condition.
Parking in Ragusa Superiore is much easier than in Ragusa Ibla, so even if staying in the historic center you’ll want to park in the upper town. There’s a paid underground parking near the cathedral of Saint Giovanni.
Ragusa Ibla is closed to non-residential traffic, so check with your accommodation in advance if they’re able to authorize guests to enter. If not, leave your car at Piazza della Repubblica (near the entrance to the old town). Another car parking is available by the Giardino Ibleo.
Where to find a car rental
Ragusa itself does not have any car rental agencies. However, less than 30 minutes away at Comiso Airport a few companies have offices.
Siracusa, an hour away, has more choices. For the biggest selection of cars and companies, you’re best off getting a car in Catania or Palermo (depending on where you’ll be arriving to in Sicily).
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
Best time to visit
There’s really no bad time to visit Sicily and Ragusa, and you’ll have a good time regardless of the season. Even so, summer is probably the ideal time to be in Ragusa. While much of the island suffers from stifling heat throughout the summer, Ragusa’s location on the Hyblean Hills means it stays cooler even during those hottest months.
Moreover, it is never overcrowded like other more well-known destinations, and the excellent nearby beaches give you plenty of places to cool off with a swim.
Visiting in Spring
Unless you’re visiting Ragusa over Easter, when it tends to get slightly busier and more expensive than usual (largely due to domestic tourism), a spring visit is considerably cheaper than a summer one, something to keep in mind if you’re traveling on a budget.
Temperatures are good by April and there’s relatively little threat of rain. It probably won’t be warm enough for swimming until May, but for sightseeing and all other outdoor activities, the weather is ideal.
Visiting in Summer
A summer visit to Ragusa is all about beaches and outdoor activities. It’s a good idea to enjoy the beaches in the morning while temperatures are still comfortable and then head back uphill into the cooler city to get some respite from the midday heat. At 520 meters above sea level, the city is very noticeably cooler.
Between July and September, the city is also enlivened by the summer festival Estate Iblea, which organizes a host of events around the city.
Visiting in Fall
During fall the climate in southeastern Sicily (and Ragusa) is still pleasant. Swimming weather typically continues through the end of October (and maybe even into November), but the scorching summer highs are no longer a concern. In October the historic center of Ragusa becomes the setting for Scale del Gusto, a Sicilian food festival held on the staircases between Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla.
Visiting in Winter
Winter in Ragusa is mostly sunny but cooler than in the rest of southeastern Sicily. It can actually pretty chilly, but nothing that can't be fixed with a medium-weight coat and a warm hat! From time to time, it may even snow during February, but usually just a little sprinkle that makes everything even more magical!
How long to spend
Having 3-4 days in Ragusa is ideal so that you have time to leisurely enjoy the city and explore some of the lovely towns, natural areas, and beaches that are nearby. You could easily spend a day in Ragusa just meandering around its tiny streets and admiring its Baroque gems.
Those short on time and planning on just a day in the city should head straight to the old town and start wandering. You’ll want about a day to see everything, leaving yourself time to pop into some churches and museums, have a good lunch, and see a little bit of Ragusa Superior as well.
If you have more time, you could spend a couple of days to discovering more hidden churches, following the footsteps of Inspector Montalbano, giving a chance to Ragusa Superiore, and exploring the surrounding region.
You might consider staying even 2-3 more days to visit the nearby towns such as underrated Ispica, the surprising Modica, and Scicli. The gorgeous city of Noto is also just an hour away.
If you have two days, here’s how I’d spend them:
Day 1
Start your first day exploring Ragusa Ibla, have lunch in an old trattoria, then climb up the stairs towards Ragusa Superiore and enjoy the views. Make sure to poke your head into some of the many palaces and churches along the way. In the afternoon, visit the cathedral of Saint Giovanni in Ragusa Superiore and the archaeological museum.
Day 2
On your second day, grab your car and explore the coast, visit Inspector Montalbano’s house, and take a dip in the lovely waters at Punta Secca. In the late afternoon, come back to Ibla and enjoy the view of the old city at night.
Connect with Gaetano in Palermo for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!
Where to stay
If you’re traveling by car, Ragusa Superiore will be your best choice to stay as it’s easier to park. Moreover, staying there is usually a fair bit cheaper. The location is fine as you can quickly get down into Ibla by bus or on foot.
However, if you want the best atmosphere, Ragusa Ibla is simply much more fascinating, especially at night when the town empties and silence and wonder rule.
Ragusa Ibla
Locanda Don Serafino is set in a restored 19th-century palace with a modern spin. It has an on-site two-star Michelin restaurant. A room for two is about € 180.
A.D. 1768 Boutique Hotel is a family-run hotel set in a historical building mixing traditional architecture and contemporary design. A room for two costs € 110.
Neropece is right behind the cathedral. It offers beautifully decorated rooms and a delicious breakfast. Rooms cost € 100.
L’Orto Sul Tetto is near the church of Saint Giorgio. On the top floor, you can enjoy a beautiful patio between vines and lemon trees. A double room costs about € 100.
Ragusa Superiore
Relais Antica Badia is housed in an 18th-century villa with frescoed common spaces and rooms with antique furnishings. Average nightly rate is about € 125.
Intervallo Concept Hotel is a cheaper, yet stylish option. Homemade breakfast is served on the terrace overlooking Ibla. A room costs € 90.
What to see and do
Ragusa’s Giardino Ibleo garden. Photo: L'Ibleo at the Italian Wikipedia project., Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
1. Meander about Ibla: narrow streets hiding Baroque gems
Ibla's cobbled lanes hide many charms for you to discover while meandering about its intriguing corners, stone staircases, winding alleys, and tiny courtyards. Resist the urge to consult your map and instead follow your curiosity.
Turn a corner and stumble upon an elaborate wrought-iron balcony supported by grotesque masks; dip down an alley and come out onto a square full of light with an imposing cathedral standing at the top; climb up a staircase and suddenly an extraordinary view of the valley unfolds before you. Here, the whole point is to get lost and see where you wind up.
Nonetheless, there are some highlights you cannot risk missing, such as the cathedral of San Giorgio on Piazza Duomo, a Baroque masterpiece by Rosario Gagliardi whose white stone contrasts brilliantly with the blue sky. Some scenes from Inspector Montalbano were shot in the square.
On the same square you’ll see the noble palace Arezzo di Trifiletti, the mid-1800 aristocrats’ club Circolo di Conversazione, and the Donnafugata theater. A few minutes away, you’ll reach the church of San Giuseppe and nearby is Cinabro Carrettieri, a famous workshop that produces hand-painted Sicilian carts.
If you’re interested in having a guide show you around, check out this small-group walking tour.
2. Giardino Ibleo Park: three churches and an old portal
In Ibla even a green park hides artistic wonders to discover. The Giardino Ibleo, established in 1858 upon the ruins of the former cathedral, is home to a small archaeological area and three churches: San Domenico, San Giacomo, and a Capuchin church.
A stroll in the park is a journey through art and history and you’ll also find a marvelous respite from the heat among all the Mediterranean plants. Before entering the park, check out the Portale di San Giorgio Vecchio, the gothic portal of the destroyed cathedral, on the street just to the right of the garden entrance.
3. Climb the stairs between Ibla and Ragusa Superior, following the Church trail
A flight of 340 steps leads from Ibla to Ragusa Superiore and climbing up the stairs is part of the experience. As you walk, you'll be treated to wonderful views over the pastel-colored houses rising on top of each other and you’ll pass many lovely churches and palaces. When it starts to get dark, the old town’s street lamps come on, casting a yellowish glow over the city, making it even more fascinating and atmospheric.
Start from the church of Purgatorio, one of the very few that survived the 1693 earthquake. A pretty spot to take a photo is the 15th-century church of Santa Maria delle Scale which was built in Gothic style by Cistercian monks in the 13th century and then rebuilt in Baroque style in the 18th century.
Climbing up, you’ll also see Palazzo Cosentini, Palazzo Nicastro, and the blue-domed Santa Maria dell’Itria, built in the 14th century by the order of the Knights of Malta and barely touched by the earthquake.
4. Take a stroll around Ragusa Superiore
Being split in two and originally two separate cities, Ragusa also actually has two cathedrals. The enormous church of San Giovanni Battista in Ragusa Superiore was designed by the famous architect Rosario Gagliardi (responsible for many of the buildings in Noto, too). For a great view over the city, climb the 129 steps to the top.
Not far from the upper cathedral, you can admire noble palaces such as Palazzo Schininà di Sant’Elia, Palazzo Bertini, and Palazzo Zacco. Just below Ponte Nuovo bridge is the archaeological museum which houses important collections dating as far back as the Neolithic period. The exhibition includes the story of the ancient city of Kamarina and mosaics from Byzantine churches.
5. Spend a morning in Modica, and try its Aztec chocolate
Modica lies just 20 minutes away from Ragusa, and is built on a steep gorge. The medieval city, razed to the ground by the 1693 earthquake, was rebuilt in Baroque style (like everywhere in the Val di Noto).
The town is divided into Modica Bassa (lower) and Modica Alta (upper) and connected by a tangle of winding alleys and stairways. The Duomo of San Giorgio towers over the narrow alleyways, almost always visible from below.
While here, visit the tiny San Nicolò Inferiore; a 12th-century church carved into the rock. Then stop by the home of Nobel-prize winner Salvatore Quasimodo, before heading to Antica Dolceria Bonajuto to taste the local chocolate. It was introduced to the region by the Spanish (who ruled Sicily at the time) and it is still made the original Aztec way here in town.
Serious chocolate enthusiasts can also take a chocolate making class.
A baroque church in Modica
6. Visit Donnafugata castle: a legend and a labyrinth
According to the legend, the name of this castle means “the woman who fled.” Allegedly, she was the Queen Blanche of Navarre (in Spain), and was imprisoned here by Count Bernardo Cabrera.
But in actuality, the name is a corruption of the Arab “Ayn al-Sihhat”, meaning source of health. The castle was built in the 14th century and rebuilt in the 19th century, blending many styles. You can visit its many rooms and lush park, including a labyrinth!
You can learn more about a visit on the castle’s official website.
7. Visit Scicli, a Baroque city between two ridges
Scicli kept its medieval layout during its Baroque reconstruction, something quite unusual. In town, walk along Via Penna to discover its major attractions, such as Palazzo Spadaro, Palazzo Bonelli-Patanè, and the town hall which hosts the imaginary Vigàta police station from the Inspector Montalbano TV series.
Near the town hall is the Antica Farmacia, another Montalbano filming set. A few steps away, admire Palazzo Beneventano and its iron balconies.
From there, scale the hill to reach the church of Santa Maria della Croce. You can enjoy another spectacular panorama from the abandoned church of St Matteo. Continuing to the 13th-century castle ruins, you can also reach the old cave settlement of Chiafura, which was inhabited up to the 1950s. For special views, come at sunset.
If you happen to be in Scicli around the end of May, you can take part in the feast of Madonna delle Milizie, the only warrior Madonna of Christianity. The feast recalls a legendary battle against Arabs (then called Turks) during which the Virgin intervened to save Sicily from invasion. The legend inspired a local dessert called Turk’s head, a delicious turban-shaped cream puff.
If you or anyone you’re traveling with are big fans of the Inspector Montalbano book or tv series, you can also take an Inspector Montalbano-themed tour. Tours combine some more general sightseeing of the region with visits to iconic locations from the book/show.
8. Hit up the beaches around Ragusa
Ragusa may be up in the hills, but on lower ground you’ll find loads of great beaches to spend some time lazing in the sun. The city’s beachfront resort, Marina di Ragusa, is around 20 km away and can be reached by car or direct bus.
Other popular nearby beaches include
Ciriga, a sandy beach flanked by white cliffs
Santa Maria del Focallo, lined by pine trees and dunes
Sampieri, near the fishing village of the same name
Cava d’Aliga, a delight for snorkelers
Donnalucata, whose seafront appeared in the TV drama Inspector Montalbano
Punta Secca, where you can swim right in front of Inspector Montalbano’s home
9. Take a day trip to Comiso, the theater-town
The Comiso-born writer Gesualdo Bufalino called it a theater-town because it unfolds before your eyes like a theater scene. Start your walk around town from Piazza Fonte Diana, home to a fountain dedicated to the goddess. The nearby 18th-century town hall was built on Roman baths, and the adjacent Palazzo Iacono-Ciarcià is the original, having survived the famous earthquake.
A short distance away are the church of San Biagio and the Castello dei Naselli, a 15th-century fortified castle. The mortal remains of the noble family that owned it are housed in the 14th-century church of San Francesco all’Immacolata. Do not miss the imposing church of Santa Maria delle Stelle dating back to the 12th century but rebuilt in Baroque style. Also make sure to stop by the old market at Piazza delle Erbe surrounded by a loggia.
10. Try local food specialties in Chiaramonte Gulfi, a hilltop medieval town
High in the hills 20km from Ragusa, lies the charming medieval town of Chiaramonte Gulfi. The reason many tourists flock here is for the local gastronomic delights such as supprissata (a local cured meat), olive oil, and donkey mortadella.
Due to its position, it also offers impressive 360° views of the Valle dell'Ippari, the Gulf of Gela, and Mount Etna.
While here, do not miss the church of Santa Maria del Gesù which houses a painting by Mattia Preti and stuccoes by the artist Giacomo Serpotta.
11. Ispica, a city rebuilt by a prince and prehistoric caves
Ispica. 30 km from Ragusa, was also destroyed by an earthquake, but this one in 1704 and not the famous one of 1693. Prince Francesco V Statella ordered its reconstruction, and I think by now you can guess the style in which it was rebuilt. The church of Saint Bartolomeo dates back to the Normans but was rebuilt in late-Baroque style, as well as the noble palaces Palazzo Gambuzza and Palazzo Bruno.
A prehistoric cave system lies just 14 km from the city center. The caves were inhabited since 2000 BC, then used as early Christian tombs, and eventually medieval dwellings. You can discover the complex by following a 13 km-long path that runs along the surrounding gorge. The nearby Museo Cavallo d’Ispica museum, hosted in an old mill, tells the story of local rural life.
Restaurants & dining
A bar of Modica chocolate. Photo: Mussklprozz, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
For those who love to try local foods, exploring the culinary scene of Ragusa is pure joy. Like many other places in Sicily, Ragusa has some unique delights to offer.
For a hands-on introduction to local cuisine, you can take a cooking class right in Ragusa.
Must-try dishes
Pastieri: Typical pastries filled with minced lamb, offal, and cheese. Ask for it in bakeries.
Cunnighiu a partuisa: Fried rabbit with wine, capers, and olives.
Scaccia: Stuffed flatbread, originally prepared with tomatoes and onions. Today you can taste this savoury treat in all bakeries. It’s perfect for a lunch on the go.
Caciocavallo Ragusano: A semi-hard cow’s milk cheese whose origin dates back to the 1500s.
Modica’s chocolate: It's granular and crumbly as it’s prepared using a cold-working process, an old Aztec technique brought to Sicily from Latin America during Spanish rule on the island.
Affucaparrinu: Biscuits made with almonds whose name means priest-strangler.
Mpanatigghi: Half-moon-shaped biscuits stuffed with minced meat (quite strange, isn’t it?), chocolate, almonds, and spices.
Supprissata: a local cured meat of pork cut by hand and stuffed into natural casing, then dried for 60 days.
Donkey mortadella: donkey meat mortadella with pistachio inside.
My recommended restaurants
La Bettola: La Bettola offers traditional homemade food. Do not miss the grilled caciocavallo cheese accompanied by a delicious fig jam.
Camùri: Camùri is the perfect choice to try Sicilian cuisine with a contemporary flare. Desserts are usually paired with a marsala wine.
Cucina e Vino: Cucina e Vino is a family-run trattoria in a stone vaulted dammuso offering good local cuisine.
A’ Rusticana: A’ Rusticana is a traditional Sicilian restaurant featured in the famous TV Series Inspector Montalbano. Being super popular, you may need to book ahead.
Panificio Giummarra: Panificio Giummarra in Ragusa Superiore is the right place to taste the best scaccia in town.
Agli Archi: Agli Archi, with its terrace overlooking the church of Anime del Purgatorio, is super fascinating. They serve great regional recipes.
Gelati DiVini: Right on the central Piazza Duomo, this gelatera is always an unforgettable experience. Taste their wine-flavored ice creams – my favorites are marsala, passito, and moscato.
Salumeria Barocco: Salumeria Barocco is an old-style delicatessen serving plates of charcuterie including local cheeses such as caciocavallo ragusano and pecorino al Nero d’Avola.
Cantunera: Cantunera serves local craft beers, hot arancini, and freshly prepared cannoli.
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Gaetano Salemi
Sicily Expert based in Palermo
Ciao ragazzi! 👋
Hi, I'm Gaetano, and I've been a tour guide and travel consultant here in Sicily for the last 24 years. If you're looking for some local advice on your trip, I'd love to help!
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