Mount Etna Travel Guide
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Mount Etna, also known as Mongibello, from the Arabic word gebel, meaning mount, is more commonly referred to today by locals simply as “‘a muntagna”, which means “mountain” in Sicilian dialect. That’s because here in Sicily, when you talk about a mountain, there’s no question that Etna is the one you’re referring to.
Such is its fame and grandeur, you’d be hard pressed to find any traveler in Sicily since the 1700’s who has skipped making the journey to this renowned volcano. The Grand Tour traveler Patrick Brydone defined Etna as one of the places “that can undoubtedly be said to be the most enchanting on earth”, and I genuinely believe that’s no exaggeration.
The highest active volcano in Europe, Etna stands 3,357 meters tall and is among the most active volcanos anywhere in the world. Its perpetual state of activity means that you can easily stumble upon a night sky brilliantly illuminated with fire during your trip.
The Etna Park, encompassing 59,000 hectares, was established in 1987 to protect the unique natural environment and the extraordinary landscapes around the volcano, and it’s been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013 due to its geological features.
Etna, perhaps more than anything else (and anyone else), has shaped both eastern Sicily's history and landscapes, and even today it still affects our everyday lives.
I was born on the slopes of Mount Etna and have lived here for most of my life, and even I’m still amazed by its magnificence. Every chance I get I head out onto the volcano and explore its rugged terrain, walking along centuries-old lava flows and crossing its ever-changing landscape.
Over the centuries, this unmistakable monument has also become a treasure chest of legends. According to mythology, the titan Typhon was trapped under the mountain by Zeus, and in ancient times, earthquakes and eruptions were attributed to his anger at being confined there. Another legend says it is the forge of Hephaestus, god of fire and metalworking, who causes Etna’s activity.
Despite the destruction that it has often brought to those living on its slopes, Etna also makes the soil fertile and is considered by us who live here as a benevolent mother who occasionally... gets a little angry!
Table of Contents
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Why visit?
Photo: Romgiovanni at Italian Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Visiting Etna will allow you to come face-to-face with a currently active volcano. Its first recorded eruption happened in 1500 BC, but Etna formed about 150,000 years ago and it has continued to erupt regularly since then.
Etna’s gorgeous landscape is quite varied, including seething craters, a moonlike volcanic desert, centuries-old lava flows, caves, barren fields of lava, forests, verdant orchards, vineyards, and also a river named Alcantara, which carved a deep canyon.
The enormous mountain offers an unforgettable experience as you can hike on the slopes of a volcano frequently spewing plumes of ash. You can also enjoy the show of red lava fountains at night.
Nonetheless, it is a safe volcano to visit as its eruptions tend more toward lava flows instead of massive explosions. Usually, the lava flows collect into the Valle del Bove, a vast valley you can look out over during a hike to admire the old and new flows from a safe distance. The Park offers several trails and paths to choose from.
Also, the volcanic soil is extremely fertile and allows the growth of lush vineyards. How about trying the excellent Etna wines during your trip?
Where is Mount Etna?
Mount Etna lies on the east coast of Sicily, between Messina (to the north) and Catania (to the south). Several little cities and villages lie on its slopes, which covers a base circumference of about 140 km.
Catania is the nearest city and a perfect gateway to the volcano. It is 16 km (35 minutes driving) from the touristic hub of Rifugio Sapienza, which lies on the southern side of the Volcano (Etna Sud).
On the northern side (Etna Nord), the other main tourist hub of Piano Provenzana is about 45 km away (1 hour driving) away from Taormina.
Most excursions and tours typically start from either Rifugio Sapienza or Piano Provenzana, and both areas have a visitor center with all sorts of facilities and a car park.
Etna sits above the convergent plate margin between the African Plate and the Eurasian Plate and is the tallest peak south of the Alps, with a current height of 3.357 meters, though this varies based on summit eruptions.
It has 4 summit craters: in addition to the Central Crater, at the beginning of the 20th century, the volcano developed three more eruptive mouths. The tallest and currently most active is the southeastern crater.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Mount Etna is from either late April to June or from late August through September. Both of these periods (essentially late spring and late summer) see pleasant temperatures, the best weather conditions, and longer days.
You will also avoid the extreme tourist crowds during July and August, which I think may be an even bigger attraction than the good weather conditions. While you can always avoid the crowds in Etna as long as you visit the less touristy slopes/areas, it’s nice to come here during a period when you can don’t have to worry about that (any time other than the height of summer basically).
Nonetheless, bear in mind that the weather at such high altitudes can be unpredictable and frequently changes very abruptly, so always be prepared for everything and bring a windproof jacket (better if it doubles as a rain jacket) and layers.
Visiting in Spring
Etna can be visited and hiked year-round, but Spring is the beginning of the tourist season. The weather warms up nicely (although it can still be fairly chilly, especially if there’s a strong wind), and the summertime crowds won’t have arrived yet, so you’ll get to enjoy the volcano with a fraction of the crowds.
There could still be snow on the ground, especially in March and early April, so you’ll need to have appropriate clothing, especially footwear.
Visiting in Summer
Visiting Etna during the peak season means longer queues for the cable car and more tour groups trudging their way up to the summit. On the other side, the weather is at its best while the snow has gone.
You'll still need to dress appropriately and bring layers though, because although it could be roasting hot, there are often strong winds that blow through, making it feel much colder than elsewhere on the island.
Visiting in Fall
The shoulder season offers relatively warm weather, stunning foliage, and significantly fewer crowds. Up top could be windier and colder so prefer trousers over shorts and bring a jumper and a windproof jacket. You can rent a jacket on the spot (see the What to wear section below).
Visiting in Winter
The Etna Park remains open to visitors also during Winter when it is covered in snow. Some tours are not operating while cable car runs throughout the year. However, do note it could close temporarily due to bad weather. You can still join a guided tour to climb the crater wearing appropriate equipment.
In Winter, you will have the chance to practice winter sports. Rifugio Sapienza (Etna Sud) and Piano Provenzana (Etna Nord) are equipped with ski lifts, ski schools, and rental centers.
Skiing on Etna could be a breathtaking experience as the volcano smokes and rumbles while you watch the blue Ionian Sea from above. I love doing it, it's my favorite winter activity!
How long to spend
Etna is almost always visited as a day trip from elsewhere in eastern Sicily, and unless you are a huge hiking aficionado or outdoorsman, this is probably the right amount of time to spend here.
As I mentioned above, I was born here and still live on the slopes of Mount Etna, and even so, I have not seen or done nearly all that the volcano has to offer. But while Etna easily has enough to occupy you for many days, it probably doesn’t make sense to spend more than a day here if you’ve got limited time in Sicily and have a packed itinerary.
Just note that while many tour operators offer half-day excursions to Etna, and road trippers often come in for just a few hours to look around and walk a bit, I really recommend dedicating a full day to your visit.
If you’re in reasonably good shape and are willing to trek up to the summit, the round-trip hike alone will take about 5 hours, which would then leave you a few hours to see other areas.
Down at lower altitudes, you’ll find secondary craters, mysterious caves, fairytale like forests, and of course, an abundance of vineyards. So if you want to make a full day of it, here’s what I’d suggest:
In the morning you can combine the cable car ride with a hiking tour to the summit craters. Then, after a delicious meal based on typical products at the refuge, you can visit a winery, explore a cave or some ancient extinct craters, before capping off the day by enjoying the sunset from above.
Where to stay - lodging options
A hiker’s cabin on the southern side of the volcano. Photo:
Wilson44691, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Etna is quite close to and easily reached from other major destinations in eastern Sicily, you can base yourself basically anywhere along the eastern coast and just drive over to the volcano early in the morning (you’ll rarely be more than an hour away).
However, most people who come here do some from Catania or Taormina, which are two unmissable destinations on any Sicily itinerary. Being so close to the volcano, they are undoubtedly the most convenient places from which to get here.
They are your best choices to explore Etna whether you have your own car, will be booking a tour with pick-up and drop-off, or are relying on public transportation (Catania is connected by bus to Rifugio Sapienza (Etna Sud)).
Staying overnight on Etna’s slopes
Of course, if you’ve got a longer trip or just really want to stay longer, nothing prevents you from staying overnight on the volcano, which can be a really fun experience. There are a few hotels and some rustic shelters, so you’ll have a couple of different options for an overnight visit if you choose to do that.
Rifugio Sapienza is the most popular and obvious choice for where to stay, but for something more rustic, the free shelter like at Rifugio Timparossa, on the northern side of Etna, is a great option. In this case, you will need to carry your own sleeping bag and bring your own food.
Logistics of visiting
Rifugio Sapienza. Photo: Wilson44691, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Opening hours and entrance tickets
The Etna Park has no opening and closing times nor tickets. It is independently accessible, all year round, 24 hours a day, for free. However, there are specific closing times for the cable car: from April to November, it’s open every day from 9 am to 5:15 pm, while from November to March its hours are reduced to 8:30 am to 4 pm.
Many visitors here join one of the group tours offered by 4x4 vehicles (€70 per person), which depart at specific hours, usually at 10:30am, 1:30pm, and 3:30pm from Piano Provenzana (Etna Freedom).
From Rifugio Sapienza, there are departures throughout the day from 8:00am to 4pm (Funivia dell’Etna).
These 4x4 tours usually don’t operate between December and early April due to the snow and inaccessibility of the slopes.
From December to March, depending on weather conditions and snowfall, the ski facilities are open daily from 08:45 am to 4 pm.
Park entrance points and how to get there
You can freely access the park from any point, but the main gateways are Piano Provenzana (Etna Nord), a touristic and ski area on the north side of the volcano, and Rifugio Sapienza (Etna Sud), technically a hotel and ski area, but which also serves as the other main touristic area, and is on the southern side of the volcano.
These are the two highest points that you can drive to, and you’ll find parking lots, facilities, the cable car (at Rifugio Sapienza), and many varieties of tours/excursions departing from both locations.
Etna is not well connected by public transport, so you’ll more or less need to have your own car or hire a guide/driver in order to get here. The only exception to this is that a single bus (AST) runs between Catania and Rifugio Sapienza, departing from Piazza Giovanni XXIII in Catania, close to the railway station.
The bus departs for Etna at 8:15 am and returns to Catania at 4:30 pm, and the trip takes 2 hours each way. Tickets cost €6.60 for the round-trip journey and you can buy the ticket on the bus or at the counter in the square. In peak summer season, the bus can be busy, so be sure to buy your ticket the day before.
Apart from Rifugio Sapienza, there is no public transit to any of Etna’s other areas, so you’ll need a car if you want to go anywhere else.
Traveling by car, you can reach Rifugio Sapienza from Catania in about 35-40 minutes of driving. If you’re coming from Taormina, Piano Provenzana is the closer “entrance” to the park, and is a 50-minute drive away.
Parking and facilities
Both Piano Provenzana (Etna Nord) and Rifugio Sapienza (Etna Sud) offer large car parks where you can leave your car for the day. They are also equipped with restaurants, bathrooms, info points, souvenir shops, and ticket offices to book a tour on a 4x4 vehicle, to get the cable car, or to continue on foot via the trails/paths.
Self-visiting or hiring a guide
Etna is freely accessible, but you can only go as high as 2,500 meters independently. For safety reasons, it’s forbidden to proceed further without official guidance. In some circumstances, when Etna is actively emitting hazardous or dangerous materials, the authorities may prohibit the ascent even at lower altitudes.
If you’ve booked a tour on a day when the summit ascent is forbidden for safety reason, they’ll either modify the day’s plan so that you can explore other areas of the volcano, or you’ll be refunded.
Guides are available daily at visitor centers at Rifugio Sapienza and Piano Provenzana, and you can book a combined tour that includes the cable car as well as 4×4 transport. You can also rent hiking boots, helmets, and poles at either location.
If you’re on a strict budget, I’d suggest you avoid the expensive cable car (€50) and 4×4 tour (€70) and just hike the volcano by yourself up to 2,500 meters. Several well-signed alternative paths run alongside the volcano at a lower altitude.
What to wear
Even if you visit Sicily in summer, remember that weather conditions on Etna can change quickly, and being so high up, there’s often quite a lot of wind. So pack trousers instead of shorts and always have a windproof/waterproof jacket.
The volcanic soil is also very steep and rough, so bring suitable footwear such as sturdy trainers or hiking boots. Do not wear flip flops or casual walking shoes. If you don't feel like packing your own hiking gear, you can rent hiking boots and windproof jackets on the spot at Rifugio Sapienza and Piano Provenzana (€5 per item).
Remember to bring a hat and sunblock as well, and wear plenty of layers as hiking at altitude is usually colder than you expect. Yes, even in Sicily, and even in August it can still be cold up there.
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What to see and do
1. Reach the summit and take a peek into the craters
The main reason that most people visit Etna is to reach the craters at the summit and peek in, catching a glimpse of the mystery of the seething mountain. I was born here and I still love doing this, and have done so many times So I warmly recommend this crazy experience! You can reach the craters from either Piano Provenzana or Rifugio Sapienza.
From Piano Provenzana, at 1,800 meters high, you can reach the observatory at 2,900 meters by walking along a well-signed and large path. The observatory overlooks the Valle del Leone, and from there you can see the southeastern crater in front of you.
Alternatively, book a tour on a 4x4 vehicle (Etna Freedom, €70, 90 minutes round trip). You can then continue on foot with a guide up to the summit craters. The hike takes about 90 minutes.
From Rifugio Sapienza, at 1,910 meters of elevation, you can hike up to Montagnola (2,500 meters) or take the cable car (Funivia dell’Etna, 15 minutes, €50 round-trip ticket). From there, hop on a 4x4 vehicle (a combined ticket including cable car and 4x4 transport costs €78), which will take you up to Torre del Filosofo at 2,900 meters.
Or you can hire a guide and go even further, all the way to the summit craters. The summit hike takes about 5 hours round-trip.
Two of the summit craters seen from the Laghetto crater. Photo: The Cosmonaut, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Enjoy some of the (many) other hikes
While the summit is the main draw for the vast majority of visitors, Etna has tons of other trails at varying altitude levels, with wide ranging difficulty and lengths.
The official park organization provides an app with an interactive map that has a directory of trails categorized by their difficulty level, length, and altitude.
At the end of this article, in the section titled “Best Hikes in the Park”, you’ll see some of my perennial favorites trails/routes.
3. Take narrow gauge railway train up to 1,000 meters
Have you ever thought of climbing a volcano… by train? Well, there’s a narrow gauge railway, the Ferrovia Circumetnea, that climbs up to an altitude of 1,000 meters. An inexpensive and pretty unique way to experience the volcano, the daily fare costs just €8.
The rail journey begins in Catania (stop Borgo) and runs all around Etna, stopping at villages such as the medieval Adrano and Bronte, where the famous local pistachio is grown in the rich volcanic soil.
The trip, which begins in Catania and ends in Riposto (or the reverse), takes 3 hours, and along the way, you’ll see Etna looming in the distance while the train crosses crops of prickly pear cacti, almond orchards, citrus groves, vineyards, and lava fields.
For the return journey, there’s a regular commuter train that runs between Catania and Riposto. This is much speedier, completing the trip in just 20 minutes.
The Catania station for the Circumetnea train. Photo: VincentLR, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Visit Randazzo, the closest village to the summit
Sitting 765 meters high, Randazzo is a lovely town that’s also the closest village to the summit.
Walking through its narrow streets, you’ll discover a medieval village built in volcanic stone, dotted with three main churches corresponding to three old neighborhoods: Santa Maria, the Latin quarter; San Nicola, the Greek quarter; and San Martino, the Lombard quarter. There’s also a Swabian castle that now houses an archeological museum.
If you happen to be here on the 15th of August, join the celebrations for the Madonna Maria Santissima Assunta, and follow behind the 20-meter-high triumphal charriot.
Photo: trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
5. Sample local wines along the “Strada del Vino”
Etna is heaven on earth if you’re a wine lover: its fertile volcanic soil produces truly excellent wines and there is a great selection of lovely vineyards to visit along the volcano’s slopes.
You can do a self-guided tour of the so-called Strada del Vino by car, visiting the cellars along the way, or book a wine tour by train.
The train tour runs every Thursday and Saturday from April to November and your ticket includes the train ride, a guide, and a special bus to take you on to each of the cellars where you’ll sample the local ones.
6. Go skiing on the volcano
Skiing, one of the things I like most in the world, I can do right at home - how lucky am I?! And you can do it too if your trip to Sicily happens in winter, as Etna has great wintertime skiing. Imagine shooting down the slopes of an active volcano while looking out at the brilliantly blue Ioanian Sea. That is simply hard to top.
Etna has two ski resorts, Piano Provenzana and Nicolosi, where you can rent gear and enjoy a day on the ski slopes with a breathtaking view of the smoking volcano peak and the Sicilian coast sparkling in the distance.
Etna Nord ski resort on Piano Provenzana. Photo: Nasoallinsu, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Head underground to explore the lava caves
Over the centuries, lava flows have created several tunnels and caves on Etna. They were once used as burial places, sheep pens, shelters, or even storage spaces for snow.
You can hire a guide who will build you a personalized itinerary and take you through the caves, or you can explore them on your own. They are usually well-marked along the paths and are easily accessible.
The Grotta dei Lamponi (raspberry cave) is among the longest and most fascinating: the path to the cave starts from Rifugio Ragabo, near Piano Provenzana, and the the hike is about 15 km long round-trip. It takes around 4 hours.
The Grotte dei Lamponi. Photo: Nunzio Santisi, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
8. Visit the Grotta del Gelo, Europe’s southernmost “glacier”
For safety reasons, this cave can only be explored as part of a guided tour. Inside the cave, you’ll descend using ropes and crampons so as not to slip on the ice, which is found here year-round. This permanent ice cap is the reason the Grotta del Gelo (ice cave) has also been called the southernmost glacier in Europe.
The hike is quite challenging (20 km, 8 hours) but definitely worth it. The path starts from Piano Provenzana.
9. Catch a spectacular sunset from the volcano’s slopes
Whether you are passionate about photography or not, the sunset on Etna will give you unforgettable emotions. Do not miss the chance to see the sun setting down the craters while Etna smokes.
If you’re lucky, it emits fountains of red lava that illuminate the increasingly dark sky. You can join a sunset tour, departing both from Piano Provenzana and Rifugio Sapienza. It usually takes about 2-3 hours and costs € 60-70.
10. Take a helicopter ride over the volcano
Ok, this is for sure a splurge price-wise, but if you're not on a budget... why not? A helicopter ride on Etna offers amazing vantage points over the volcano and its summit craters, and it’s a thrilling experience.
A 20-minute private flight costs €1100, while a group flight that can take up to 7 passengers costs €300 per person.
11. Go horseback riding
Several equestrian associations organize horseback riding tours on the volcano, with the average tour lasting about 60 minutes and costing €30 per person.
And if you’re traveling with kids donkey trekking is a very fun option!
12. Grab a mountain bike and hit the Pista Altomontana
The Pista Altomontana (Altomontana Track) is a trail extending for about 35 kilometers at an average altitude of 1,750 meters. The tour starts from Rifugio Sapienza and ends in Piano Provenzana (or vice versa), and takes about 6 hours.
Along the way, you will cross pine forests, old woods, caves, basalt roads, and ancient lava flows, and will have some great views of the craters.
You can rent a bike and book the tour here.
13. Explore the Alcantara Gorge
The Alcantara Gorge is located 30 minutes by car from Taormina and 50 minutes from Catania. Technically on volcano but at a very low altitude, the gorge tells 1,000-year-old story of lava flows cooled by the icy water of the Alcantara river, which still flows here.
Over time, the river has carved out an astonishing canyon lying beneath towering gorges, that can be reached by an elevator ride or by descending 224 stairs.
Once at the bottom, you can splash around, go canyoning, and do some body rafting. There’s also a 3.5 kilometer hiking path that runs along the top of the gorge.
Photo: Massimo Salmeri, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Best hikes in the park
Quick hike to the lower craters: Crateri Silvestri
Not far from Rifugio Sapienza you can visit the Crateri Silvestri, extinct craters dating back to the 1892 eruption. The nearest careter to the car park is just a 5-minute walk, but do not miss the chance to reach the upper craters as well.
The trail to the uper craters is 1.2 km long, somewhat steep but fairly easy, and takes 20-30 minutes.
Crateri Silvestri. Photo: pjt56 ---, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Schiena dell’Asino trail to the Valle del Bove
The path called “Schiena dell’Asino” starts from Rifugio Sapienza and leads to the edge of the Valle del Bove, an impressively vast valley where many lava flows collect.
The hike is about 2.5 km long and takes 2 hours. It is not a difficult trail, but it’s entirely uphill so can be slow-going.
The Valle del Bove
The loop trail to the Monti Sartorius crater chain
This easy loop trail is 3 km long and takes about an hour. The walk takes you along an old path used by shepherds, and passes an impressive chain of eruptive cones that arose during a massive eruption in 1865.
The path starts from Rifugio Citelli, on the eastern slope, along the Strada Regionale Mareneve, a road that connects the volcano with the coast (to the east).
Photo: Archeo, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The out and back route from Rifugio Citelli to Serracozzo
This 13 km trail (round-trip) starts from Rifugio Citelli and takes about 4 hours. It is a quite challenging route as you’ll be walking mainly uphill along volcanic rocks formed by lava flows. Along the way, you can visit the Serracozzo cave, an impressive lava cave in the shape of a huge keyhole.
Once you reach Serracozzo, you will have a stunning view over the Valle del Bove and the summit of Mount Etna. The return trip is much easier, being downhill.
Rifugio Citelli, the start of the trail. Photo: Davide Mauro, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Hike from Piano Provenzana to Abisso Monte Nero
Although this trail is on one of the most visited slopes (Piano Provenzana), this 6.5 km route isn’t especially busy and gives you the opportunity to enjoy some solitude while walking along a well-signed path leading to the cave Abisso di Monte Nero.
The path starts from Piano Provenzana and after an uphill stretch, you’ll reach the lava flow formed during an eruption in 2002. From there, you follow the path to Monte Nero. The hike takes around 2 hours in total.
Piano Fiera to Monte Egitto to see the centuries-old oak trees
If you’re looking for a wilder experience, head to the western slope of Mount Etna, which is far less visited. You will rarely find other tourists there.
The path leading to Monte Egitto, where the 100+ year old oak trees grow, starts from Piano Fiera, near the city of Adrano. It is a moderately challenging hike, and you can expect to cover the 14 kilometers (round trip) in about 4 hours.
Piano dell’Acqua through Val Calanna - wander among the forest
Etna is not just lava fields, lava caves, and craters! While those may be the star attraction, the volcano’s slopes offer much more than just that.
Over the centuries, magnificent woods have sprouted up along its slopes, and the Val Calanna path is one of the best trails via which to see and walk among them.
The route starts from Piano dell’Acqua, near Zafferana Etnea, on the volcano’s eastern slope.
When you’ve finished the hike, stop in at the town of Zafferana to sample a well-deserved local delicacy called Siciliana, a fried calzone filled with tuma cheese and anchovies.
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