A Local’s Guide to Visiting Scicli, Sicily
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Photo: trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Scicli, pronounced Shee-klee, is an ancient town in Sicily’s Val di Noto, thought to have been founded by the Sicels and taking its name from one of the three tribes that lived in Sicily before the Greek colonists arrived.
Over the millenia, the city has been conquered by many different invaders, much like the rest of this island, and it reached its peak under Normal rule around the year 1,000 A.D.
Built up over hundreds, even thousands of years, a devastating earthquake in 1693 razed the city to the ground, killing over 3,000 people died. In the following 300 years Scicli has been painstakingly reconstructed - mostly in the late Baroque style - and it is now among the 7 UNESCO-listed cities in Val di Noto.
Although it’s less known than the nearby towns of Noto, Ragusa, and Modica, Scicli is an utterly charming town that is well worth a visit. Its streets brim with beautiful palaces and churches dating to the 17th century, while the city’s layout still retains its medieval structure.
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Table of Contents
Why visit?
Where is Scicli?
How to get here
How long to stay
1-day Scicli itinerary
What to to see and do
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Where is Scicli?
Scicli is in southeastern Sicily, about 250 km southeast from Palermo, Sicily’s capital, and around 140 kilometers southwest of Catania, eastern Sicily’s largest city.
The town is located in the Val di Noto, the valley in southeastern Sicily that hosts the famous towns of Ragusa and Modica, which are 25 and 10 kilometers away, respectively. Scicli itself is in a rather spectacular natural setting, nestled in a gorge and surrounded by two steep ridges.
Outside of the city, a magnificent Mediterranean countryside dotted with white-stone farms extends all around. And just a few kilometers away, you can find long sandy beaches like Sampieri and Donnalucata.
Why visit
Photo: trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Scicli has been recognized as a UNESCO site since 2002, but probably the most influential factor in its rising popularity is the 1990’s TV series “Inspector Montalbano”, which was filmed here. While the show has long since ended, you can still explore the set by wandering through the city and seeing its many famous settings.
While strolling through Scicli, you’ll also uncover its magnificent Baroque center, and will spot the iconic stone gargoyles perched beneath the many balconies extending out over the streets.
Moreover, here you’ll also find the remnants of an ancient cave city (very similar to Matera, in Basilicata, but with a fraction of the crowds!) and can sample local delicacies such as cucciddatu and testa di turco (more on these below).
If that’s not already reason enough to visit, let me tell you about one more major upside of Scicli: unlike in nearby Ragusa, Noto, and Syracuse, you will never be bothered by hordes of tourists here. The tourism here is much less intense, slower, more relaxed, and honestly, more authentic. In Scicli, you can experience the Val di Noto as it once was, before the tourist buses began arriving.
How to get to here
By train and bus
The train station is about 1 km from the city center. A few direct trains (5- routes per day) connect Scicli to Ragusa, taking 1 hour. The ticket costs € 2.20 one way.
Buses are more frequent. AST operates the routes between Scicli and Ragusa. The ticket costs € 3.90. The journey takes an hour.
You can count on several departures from 7.30 am to 10 pm. Tickets can be purchased directly on the bus.
By car
You can reach Scicli from Ragusa by driving along the SS115 to Modica and then taking the SP40 to Scicli. The journey takes about 35 minutes.
Be aware of the ZTL (limited traffic zones). Look for the sign warning of a ZTL: a red circle. You cannot access Via Penna, a 24-hour pedestrian area.
Free or paid parking (blue lines) stalls can be found along Via Santa Maria La Nova. There is a free underground parking area on Via Tagliamento.
Paid parking spaces are available in Piazza Italia.
Where to find a car rental
All the big rental companies have offices in Sicily and you also have many local agencies. If you begin your visit in Palermo, Catania, or any other larger city, you’ll find plenty of options for car rentals. If you want to pick up a car while in Marsala, know that your best bet will be to pick up a rental at the airport in nearby Trapani.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars which is a website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
How long to stay
Despite being a small city, Scicli offers a lot to discover. And because some of its primary attractions are found slightly outside the city center (the city is, after all, built on a gorge surrounded by rocky hills), it will take a bit of time to discover it all. With that in mind, I suggest spending a whole day here.
This will give you time to explore the city center, to discover the very impressive cave dwellings, and climb up the gorge to the town’s isolated hilltop church, where you’ll enjoy an unforgettable sunset.
Scroll down to the end of this article to see my complete 1-day itinerary.
Where to stay
If you’d like to slow down and stay here overnight, the Albergo Diffuso would be a good choice. It is not a proper hotel, but rather has various rooms and houses spread throughout the city.
For example, if you choose the Camera Arancia, you will be in front of the Piazza Municipio (Municipal Square). Rates are about €75 per night for a double room.
Alternatively, you can book a fully equipped home, such as Casa del Gioia, which runs around €90 per night for a double room.
1-day Scicli itinerary
The best way to start exploring Scicli is to wander its historic center: walk along Via Mormino Penna and be stunned by the Baroque palaces and churches lining the street.
Then, admire the gargoyles of Palazzo Beneventano, visit the Vigata police station inside the town hall, the Antica Farmacia, Palazzo Bonelli, and Palazzo Spadaro.
When you get hungry, stop for lunch at My name is Tanino to taste the local vastidduzza.
After lunch, walk up to the abandoned church of San Matteo for a great view of the city, then head to the nearby ruins of the Castellaccio.
Next, visit the cave settlement of Chiafura and the churches of San Bartolomeo and Santa Maria della Catena. Head to the huge Santa Maria La Nova at the end of a deep quarry.
Refill your energy by tasting the local delicacy Testa di Turco, a cream puff linked to a legend (see Madonna delle Milizie above).
As evening approaches, take a drive up to the church of Santa Maria della Croce to enjoy a magnificent sunset over the city glowing pink under the sun.
Then, head for dinner at Baqqala, where you can taste a typical Sicilian dinner in front of the Palazzo Beneventano.
Connect with Dania in Palermo for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!
Things to see & do
1. Walking along Via Mormino Penna
A stroll along the central Via Francesco Mormino Penna provides a glimpse into the Baroque soul of Scicli.
The pedestrianized street is lined by fancy palaces such as Palazzo Bonelli, Palazzo Conti, and Palazzo Carpentieri, along with the beautiful churches of San Michele, Santa Teresa, and San Giovanni Evangelista.
Along the street, visit the Museo del Costume, housed in a former monastery.
Photo: Nad6854, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Spot the gargoyles: discover the noble palaces
Palazzo Beneventano is the undisputed star of the city. It was built in the 17th century by the Modican family Spadaro when they moved to Scicli. It features a stunning Baroque façade with 8 balconies. Their convex wrought iron railings are supported by gargoyles and Rococo swirls.
Next, you will stumble upon Palazzo Spadaro, dating back to the 18th century. Its exterior is adorned with balconies featuring floral motifs, while the interior is a marvel of frescoes and stuccos.
Photo: pjt56 ---, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Set off to discover Inspector Montalbano
If you're a fan of the detective series Inspector Montalbano, you can’t miss a visit to the fictional police station called Commissariato di Vigata, hosted in Scicli’s town hall. The fictional regional police, or Questura di Montelusa, is a few steps ahead in Palazzo Iacono.
You can visit the office inside the town hall. Other filming locations? The terrace of Piazza Carmine and the church of San Bartolomeo.
4. See the churches
Scicli’s largest church is Santa Maria La Nova located at the end of the homonymous quarry. It dates back to the Byzantine era but it was rebuilt over time, especially after the 1693 earthquake.
The church of San Bartolomeo dates back to the 15th century, while San Giovanni Evangelista is decorated in Baroque style with remarkable frescos and marble columns. Santa Teresa and San Michele Arcangelo are also Baroque churches.
The church of San Matteo, now abandoned, was once the city’s main church. Do not miss the church of Santa Maria della Catena built on the rock face along the path that leads down from San Matteo.
The church of San Matteo. Photo: trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
5. Step back in time at the Antica Farmacia
Travel to the 20th century visiting the Antica Farmacia Cartia, an old pharmacy still retaining its original wooden shelves full of majolica jars, glass cabinets, scales, and cash register.
Looks familiar? It appeared in the Montalbano series!
6. Take a hike hike to the Chiafura cave settlement
A short 10-minute path, starting from the city center, will lead you to the abandoned church of San Matteo, from which you will have a great view over Scicli.
From there, continue to the remains of 13th-century Castellaccio. Right under the castle, you can see an old quarter dug out in the tufa rocks. It is the cave settlement of Chiafura, inhabited up to 1958.
You can still visit one of the caves, A rutta di Don Carmelu, to see how people lived here until a few decades ago.
Photo: Veronidae, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Have a typical lunch of vastidduzza at My Name is Taninto
Enjoy a tasty yet inexpensive lunch at , tasting the local vastidduzza, a fried dough seasoned with sugar or oregano. The best place to eat a very good vastidduzza is My name is Tanino, a small restaurant serving local tapas.
8. See the Easter procession: the Uomo Vivo feast
At Easter, Scicli hosts one of Sicily’s most impressive processions called Uomo Vivo (meaning Living Man) or Gioia (Joy) due to the explosion of joy among the crowds following the statue of Christ on the day of the Resurrection.
On Sunday, the mournful atmosphere is wiped out by a lively procession starting at 1 am from the church of Santa Maria La Nova. The wooden statue of Christ, dating back to the 17th century, is carried on a parade through the city center while swaying and dancing until late at night. People repeatedly shout Joy! Joy! Joy!
9. See Scicli from above (at sunset)
The church of Santa Maria della Croce lies on a hill overlooking the city, about 20 minutes from the city center. Trust me, it is worth a visit, especially at sunset: you will have a great view of the city glowing pink in the sun.
The church is closed, but the view of Scicli from above is magnificent.
The view from Santa Maria della Croce. Photo: Duniasikuzote, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
10. Celebrate the Madonna delle Milizie, a warrior Madonna
In the end of May, the city celebrates the Madonna delle Milizie, a very unusual warrior Madonna on horseback! The re-enactment recounts a legendary battle between Normans and Arabs, then called Turks.
The intervention of the Virgin riding a white horse, sword in hand, saved Sicily from invasion in 1091.
11. Sample the Turk’s head: a local sweet treat
While in Scicli, you can’t miss the local sweet delicacy called Testa di Turco, or Turk’s head. It is a dessert resembling a turban made with choux pastry filled with cream or ricotta.
According to the legend, the dessert was inspired by the battle of the Madonna delle Milizie to celebrate the victory over the Turks. Pasticceria Basile is the most renowned pastry shop to taste the best Testa di Turco in town, but the last time I was in Scicli it was closed, so I tried Dolceria Giannone: they are gigantic! (as well as delicious)
12. Take a trip to the beach
If you come in the summer, why not indulge in a dive? The coastline south of Scicli, just 9 km away, is dotted by beautiful beaches. Sampieri is a family-friendly beach, while in Punta Secca you can swim in front of Inspector Montalbano’s house.
Donnalucata often appeared in the same TV drama: enjoy its long beach lined by a pleasant seafront. It hosts a fish market open every day. Do not miss Cava d’Aliga, a paradise for snorkelers. Playa Grande is a golden beach lapped by a cobalt sea next to the Irminio river nature reserve.
Sampieri beach at sunset. Photo: kirandulo from Hungary, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
13. Have dinner with a view at Baqqala
Feeling hungry? Sit at Baqqala, an eatery in front of the charming Palazzo Beneventano. Remember to book because they have a few seats outside. You can taste Sicilian classics such as an anchovy parmigiana.
If you like a more atmospheric restaurant, choose La Grotta, serving good Sicilian food inside a cave.
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