Travel Guide to Thessaloniki - Greece’s Second City
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Despite being Greece’s second largest city and a super interesting place with thousands of years of history, Thessaloniki is almost entirely ignored by most international tourists. While the city definitely warrants more interest from visitors, the lack of tourists is quite a good thing if you’re looking for an authentic place to spend a few days.
Saloniki, as locals call it, has an undoubtable charm that is quite different from Athens, making it a really interesting contrast to the far more famous capital city. And while I’ll confess that if you can only visit one of the two, it should of course be Athens, Thessaloniki has a cultural liveliness, fascinating historical monuments, and dining scene that is second to none.
The city was founded around the end of the fourth century BC and served as a crucial trade junction owing to its location at the intersection of the main trade routes of that period one of which was the Via Egnatia, an ancient road connecting Constantinople to Rome.
While the “trade routes” have moved away in the following 2,000+ years, Via Egnatia still crosses the city today, and is a testament to that history.
Over the centuries, the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans all ruled over the city, and it was also once the home of the largest Sephardic Jewish community in Europe, present here since the 3rd century BC. Still today, you can find ruins, churches & mosques, and other traces of each of these civilizations almost everywhere you look.
History aside, Thessaloniki is an especially youthful and energetic place, thanks in large part to the significant student population that calls the city home: Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, based here, is the largest university in Greece.
That means that there are tons of fun bars and clubs in the city, and no matter how late you want to party, there will always be other people out and about on the street.
Lying directly on the sea in the Thermaic Gulf, there is also a distinctly coastal atmosphere here, and the city’s enormous port looms over the waterfront in the distance. More pleasantly, the always-busy seaside promenade is a wonderful place to go for a stroll, grab a drink or bite to eat, and people watch.
And when you want a break from the city, the magnificent nearby beaches of the Halkidiki Peninsula beckon you for an easy day trip, while inland, the famous Mount Olympus (yes - the one from Greek Mythology!), is just a short drive or bus ride away, and awaits with some incredible hikes and vistas.
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Plan your itinerary with local help
With so much to see and do, figuring out how to maximize your itinerary is a huge challenge. So, if you could use some help putting together an efficient plan for your trip, schedule a Greece travel consultation with our Greece-based Local Expert, Luca!
These are one-hour Zoom calls where you’ll get to chat with Luca about the trip you’re planning and he’ll share his tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.
Why visit?
Founded in 315 BC, Thessaloniki has been shaped by numerous civilizations, including the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans, all of whom left their marks on the city.
When wandering around the city center, you’ll find a pretty absurdly impressive array of ruins and UNESCO World Heritage Sites, such as the Rotunda, the Byzantine Walls, and the iconic White Tower, symbolizing Thessaloniki's multifaceted past. When I visit, I often genuinely feel a bit like a time traveler, uncovering layers of history every time I turn a corner.
And while the historical sights and monuments are fantastic, what I think sets Thessaloniki apart from other places in Greece is its unique blend of cosmopolitan energy and laid-back charm. While Athens may be larger and more populous, and the islands often draw in the bulk of tourists, Thessaloniki offers an authentic, distinctly local experience.
The city is well known for its bustling atmosphere, particularly in its liveliest neighborhoods, such as Ladadika and Ano Poli, where you can enjoy a mix of contemporary bars, traditional tavernas, and globally inspired fine-dining establishments, all surrounded by stately old architecture and truly excellent street art.
The vibes in Thessaloniki are utterly welcoming, characterized by a youthful spirit and a palpable energy, which as I mentioned above, is fueled by its large student population and a rich cultural scene. There are many museums and galleries here, and it’s a very forward-thinking place, which shrugs off the traditionalism more common in some other parts of Greece.
Being Greece, the sea is never far away, and the waterfront promenade, with its beautiful views of the sea and fabulous sunsets, is a favorite spot for both locals and visitors to take a stroll, unwind, and enjoy life. I encourage you to do the same on your visit here!
Where is Thessaloniki?
Thessaloniki, with its approximately 320,000 inhabitants, is the second largest city in Greece and the largest in the north of the country. Located in the region of Central Macedonia, the city sits along the northern coast of the Aegean Sea and serves as one of the country's most significant urban centers, historically, culturally, and economically.
The city is approximately 500 kilometers north of Athens, the national capital, and can be easily reached from there via frequent direct train service.
The area immediately surrounding Thessaloniki is fairly urbanized, while further out from the metropolitan area, you’lll find fertile plains dominated by agriculture, where they produce mainly grains, olives, and grapes.
The iconic Mount Olympus, home to the Greek gods, is located southwest of the city and is a popular destination for hikers and nature enthusiasts. To the southeast, within an easy drive, lies the Chalkidiki Peninsula, known for its beautiful beaches, crystal-clear waters, and many tourist resorts.
How to get here
Thessaloniki is quite easy to get to, whether you’re coming from somewhere in Greece or basically anywhere in the world.
Arriving by air
The Thessaloniki International Airport (SKG) lies just a few kilometers from the city center, and has a wide array of regular direct flights with to/from many other European cities.
If you’re coming from anywhere in Europe, you’ll likely find a nice selection of direct low-cost flights, making getting here quick and very affordable. And even if you’re coming from outside of Europe, you’ll easily be able to find a connecting flight from just about any other European city, making it still quite an easy city to reach.
Arriving by sea
Being a major port city, Thessaloniki can also be reached by sea. Regular daily ferries connect Thessaloniki with the Sporades and Northern Aegean islands, as well as with the major Greek port of Piraeus, which is just southwest of Athens (and well within the city’s urban area).
Getting here from Athens
If you’ll be coming here from Athens, you have two primary options: the train and the bus.
Ahigh-speed train line (OSE) connects Thessaloniki to Athens, with a travel time of just 4 hours. There are multiple departures between the two cities each day, and tickets will cost from about €10 to €40, depending on the class of service you book.
The bus is another good option, and the route is operated by KTEL, the main bus company in Greece for medium-to-long distance bus travel. The journey takes about the same time as the train (4 hours) and there are departures from Athens just about every half hour, from morning until evening.
Costs for the bus are comparable to the train tickets, if not slightly cheaper.
Thessaloniki can also be reached directly from many other Greek cities and towns by bus, with KTEL operating those routes as well.
Getting around the city
Photo: Stolbovsky, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Thessaloniki is a rather dense city, so as long as you stay in a central rea, you’ll be fine getting around most everywhere on foot.
That being said, there are also approximately 70 bus routes that criss cross the city, covering just about every inch of it. The buses are punctual and perfectly comfortable (they have air conditioning), but do note that travel times can be long due to typically heavy traffic.
The Line 50 bus travels between many places of touristic interest, so this is an excellent route to take if you want to see a good chunk of the city very inexpensively (€1 for a ticket). You can buy tickets at kiosks on the street or directly on the bus, via the vending machines. Keep in mind that the vending machine only accepts coins and does not give change.
Taxis are also a good choice here, as distances between destinations are usually pretty short and the rate is quite low compared to other European cities. The Free Now phone app is convenient for ride hailing, but you can also catch official yellow cabs in the street - just wave your hand to hail one.
Connect with Luca in Sifnos for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips for a better visit!
How long to spend
Thessaloniki offers a really nice mix of archaeological sites, interesting architecture, delicious cuisine, and lively neighborhood life, and I think 3 days is the ideal amount of time to get a good sense for all of this. With 3 days, I’d suggest dedicating two of them to the city itself and then setting aside another for a day trip.
Keep in mind that the city has a number of great places to visit nearby (Mount Olympus, Halkidiki’s beaches, as well as wineries), so you could easily stay for even longer if you wanted to visit multiple of them. Thessaloniki is a great base from which to explore the wider area.
Many people and other blogs will probably tell you that you only need 2 days here (some will probably tell you not to bother visiting at all!), and while it’s true that you could certainly see many of the main sights and even squeeze in a day trip in just two days, that would have you rushing around crazily and just checking off boxes rather than taking the time to enjoy yourself.
I guarantee that you won’t even remember what you saw or did if you try to fit everything into just two days.
In comparison, a 3-day stay gives you time to explore all the main attractions at a pleasant pace, enjoy leisurely stops at cafes, bars, and restaurants (of which there are countless excellent ones) to samples the fantastic cuisine and enjoy the atmosphere, and make a full-day trip out to either Mount Olympus or the Halkidiki Peninsula.
Main sights in the city
With thousands of years of history and having been conquered and ruled by many different civilizations over the centuries, Thessaloniki is a genuine melting pot and the city’s diverse sights and attractions are a testament to this.
There’s a lot to see and do here, so to make it a bit easier for you to put together your sightseeing plan, I’ve broken down my recommendations into a couple of key categories:
1. The White Tower
The most iconic symbol of Thessaloniki, this stone tower with its fortified walls sits proudly on the city’s waterfront. The White Tower was built in the 15th century and served as a fortification and then later a prison. Today, it’s a museum that provides insights into the city’s history, and stunning views from its upper level.
It was first erected as a lookout tower by the Ottomans after they conquered Thessaloniki in 1430. When the city became part of the Hellenic State in 1912, the tower was painted white to symbolize a cleansing of the city’s Turkish past, which is how it came to be called the White Tower.
2. Rotunda of Galerius
Photo: C messier, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Originally built as a mausoleum for Emperor Galerius, this massive circular structure has served various purposes over the centuries. Galerius was actually never buried here, and by the 4th century it was converted into a church. It is rumored to be among the oldest churches in the world, and is for sure the oldest in town.
This is one of the UNESCO-listed landmarks that I mentioned earlier, and it’s an excellent example of Byzantine and early Christian architecture/art. It once had magnificent mosaics, and while only fragments of those remain, they’re still great examples of Christian art from that era.
The building lies at the end of Gounari Street, one of Thessaloniki’s main streets, which links the waterfront with the Upper Town.
3. Arch of Galerius
Photo: Suicasmo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Right next to the Rotunda, this triumphal arch, known today as Kamara, was erected in 306 AD to commemorate Galerius' victory over the Persians. The intricate reliefs depicting battle scenes are a superb example of Roman art and provide a glimpse into the city’s ancient history.
4. Aristotelous Square
This square, the principal one of the city, is named after the famous Greek philosopher Aristotle and was designed in 1918 by the French architect Ernest Hébrard. It was meant to be reminiscent of the rue de Rivoli in Paris. It is located in the heart of the city, right beside the waterfront at the end of Egnatia Street, one of the city's main thoroughfares.
Ringed by very impressive neocalssical and modernist buildings from the early 20th century, the square also features an impressive view of Mount Olympus.
This is a great spot for people watching, to enjoy the bustling atmosphere of the city, to listen to live music from the rotating selection of street musicians, and to start a leisurely walk along the sea.
5. Ano Poli - The Old Town
Traditional buildings and cobblestone streets in Ano Poli. Photo: PLAKLE, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Perched atop the hills of Thessaloniki, Ano Poli is a well preserved historic neighborhood where you’ll feel a bit like you’ve travelled back in time. With roots tracing back to the Byzantine era, this district has witnessed the entirety of the city's turbulent past, having served as a refuge during sieges and invasions.
As you wander through its narrow, winding streets lined with traditional stone houses and bougainvillea, you will stumble upon the enchanting remains of the 12th-century Church of Prophet Elijah, among many other notable sights and landmarks (including the city’s ancient fortifications - see above for more info on these).
Today, Ano Poli brims with artisan workshops, cozy cafes, and stunning vantage points where panoramic views of the Aegean Sea and the sprawling city unfold. This is also one of the best areas of Thessaloniki to try authentic Macedonian cuisine, as there are lots of traditional tavernas here.
6. Church of Saint Demetrius (Agios Dimitrios)
Photo: C messier, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
This UNESCO World Heritage site is dedicated to the patron saint of Thessaloniki. Do not miss its stunning mosaics and the subterranean crypt where Saint Demetrius was imprisoned. It was built over the site of a Roman bathhouse.
The church dates back to the Byzantine era when Thessaloniki was the second largest city of the Byzantine Empire after Constantinople. Now, it is part of the UNESCO-listed Palaeochristian and Byzantine Monuments of Thessaloniki.
7. Roman Agora
Photo: Leandro Neumann Ciuffo from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The ruins of the Roman Agora, which was built in the 2nd century AD, are another fantastic remnant of the old Roman city, and can be found right in central Thessaloniki.
This was once an important gathering point for Thessalonikians as well as the commercial and political heart of the city in Roman times.
Come at night to enjoy the ruins illuminated under the moonlight while sipping a drink in one of the cafè surrounding the ancient agora.
8. Holy Church of Hagia Sophia
Photo: Andrew Zorin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
This Orthodox cathedral was built in the 7th century and modeled on the famous the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople. It is renowned for its stunning Byzantine architecture and intricate mosaics and has historically served as both a Christian basilica and a mosque.
Today, it’s another of the fabulous UNESCO World Heritage Site, and reflects the rich cultural and religious history of the city/region.
9. Vlatadon Monastery
Photo: Stolbovsky, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Founded by Empress Anna Palaiologina in the 14th century, this Byzantine monastery is situated in Ano Poli (Upper Town) and today is among the most significant UNESCO-listed monuments in Thessaloniki.
It hosts an impressive collection of portable Byzantine icons, has an aviary where you can see peacocks, and also offers up incredible views out over the city and sea. It’s near a number of other sights in the upper town, so will almost certainly be within easy walking distance of you at some point during your visit.
10. Ladadika district
Photo: C messier, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Known for its lively nightlife, colorful buildings, and pedestrianized streets, this is one of the most historic parts of the city. The architecture here is great, and old houses and former warehouses have been converted into what are now trendy restaurants, bars, and cafes.
You can also browse boho-style boutiques, sit at a taverna and listen to live rebetiko music, or just wander along its cobbled streets to enjoy the atmosphere. It is undeniably touristy, but is still good fun.
11. The ancient city walls & fortifications
A section of the eastern walls. Photo: Julian Nyča, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The ancient city walls are one of my favorite spots in Thessaloniki and I love strolling there at sunset to enjoy the breathtaking views. They’re also another excellent example of the Byzantine period of Thessaloniki’s history.
Do not miss the Trigonion Tower, a tower built in the late 12th century as part of the city's defensive system. It stands 30 meters tall and offers panoramic views of the city and surrounding areas. It is called Trigonion due to its triangular shape.
From there, continue your walk along the walls to reach the Heptapyrgion, another Byzantine-era fortress that was built over earlier Hellenistic/Roman walls. Heptapyrgion means seven towers, a fitting name due to the fortress’ multiple towers.
When the Ottomans took over Thessaloniki, they used the fortress as their “headquarters”.
12. Thessaloniki Concert Hall (Megaron)
The Concert Hall
The Thessaloniki Concert Hall, known as Megaron Moussikis Thessalonikis, is a hub for cultural activities. It was inaugurated in 2000 and hosts a variety of musical performances, theatrical plays, and art events all throughout the year.
The building overlooks the waterfront and is a modern architectural gem, so is worth checking out even if you’re not going to catch a show.
If you want to attend a performance, check the schedule and book tickets here.
13. Gounari street
Strolling along the pedestrianized Gounari Street offers a delightful glimpse into the energy and excitement of the lower city. This tree-lined avenue is dotted with charming cafés where the aroma of freshly brewed coffee mingles with the warm Mediterranean breeze.
As you walk, the lively chatter of locals and tourists alike fills the air. Historic buildings adorned with intricate facades stand as reminders of Thessaloniki's rich past, while modern boutiques showcase its contemporary flair.
Each step reveals small surprises, from street artists showcasing their talents to the tasty scents of traditional Greek pastries wafting from nearby bakeries. It's a perfect spot to pause, sip a drink, and watch the world go by, embodying the essence of this bustling Mediterranean city.
It’s no coincidence that this street has been a lively spot since Roman times!
14. Nikolaos Mavrogenis Street
Photo: Ymblanter, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Can't resist the urge to go shopping? Then gead to Nikolaos Mavrogenis Street, a charming street renowned for its mixture of historical and modern architecture, as well as its boutique shops and local artisans. It’s a great spot to find handmade goods, jewelry, and traditional Greek products.
Many of the buildings along the street have colorful facades, there’s street art all over, a nice bit of greenery, and the sidewalks are lined with outdoor seating for cafes and restaurants. It's a pedestrian-friendly area, so is one of the best spots in the city to go for a leisurely wander.
15. Pasha’s Gardens
Stone ruins in Pasha’s Gardens. Photo: Мико, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
There was a really harsh heat wave during my last visit to Thessaloniki, and I found that the green oasis that is Pasha’s Gardens was the perfect place to escape from the heat. This was once the private retreat of a high-ranking Ottoman officer, so it also has a bit of interesting history.
The gardens are a beautiful escape from the concrete and chaos of the city, and they’re also a cultural landmark that showcases the design and landscaping styles favored during the Ottoman period. Among the pathways, you can spot intriguing half-ruined stone structures dating back to the early 20th century.
Museums to visit
Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki
If you only have time to visit one museum in the city, make it this one. Very centrally located and right near the waterfront, the museum houses a vast collection of artifacts from Macedonia, including sculptures, pottery, jewelry, and ancient coins, dating from prehistoric times to the Roman period.
Notable permanent exhibits include items from the royal tombs of Vergina, but the museum also typically has a few temporary exhibits going on at any given time.
The last time I was there, there was a magnificent exhibition on ancient jewels found in the Macedonian royal tombs: a triumph of finely crafted gold, belts, and crowns. Truly breathtaking!
Museum of Byzantine Culture
This museum showcases over 30,000 Byzantine artifacts, including an impressive collection of mosaics, icons, sculptures, ceramics, textiles, and everyday objects. If you’re looking to gain a better appreciation for Thessaloniki’s history, this is the place to do it.
The exhibits are arranged chronologically, highlighting the evolution of Byzantine art and culture from the early Christian period through to the fall of Constantinople in 1453. Thessaloniki was an important center of culture and power in the Byzantine world, so there is A LOT of history covered here!
Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki
The Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki is a poignant testament to the city's often overlooked Jewish heritage. Once home to Europe’s largest Jewish community, Thessaloniki welcomed many Sephardic and Ashkenazi Jews following the Spanish inquisition in the 15th century.
The museum does a great job of narrating this history, and showcases a nice selection of religious vestments, ceremonial objects, and photographs that give a pretty complete picture of Jewish life here over the centuries.
A visit here can be pretty profound, and I’ll never forget exhibits about the turbulent years of World War II, when the Jewish population of the city faced unimaginable hardships, with mass deportations and over 95% of the city’s Jewish community being deported and killed.
Atatürk Museum
The Atatürk Museum is dedicated to the life and legacy of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, who happens to have been born here (Thessaloniki was under Ottoman control until 1912)!
The museum is in the very house that Atatürk grew up in, and despite the significance of the man, it’s rarely crowed. The rooms are perfectly preserved and furnished as they would have been during his early life, so it’s a real trip back in time.
Museum of Macedonian Struggle
Dedicated to the history of the Macedonian struggle, this museum has a variety of military memorabilia and photographs and provides an interesting overview of the military struggles and achievements of the Macedonian region during the tumultuous early 20th century.
The history covered begins with the struggle against Ottoman Rule, then continues to address the Balkan Wars, and finally both World Wars.
It also provides a broader understanding of how those wars influenced the lives of the people in both Macedonia and Greece, which is something not often covered.
The State Museum of Contemporary Art
Featuring an interesting collection of modern and contemporary art, with a particular emphasis on art from the 20th and 21st centuries, this museum emphasizes works from both Greek and international artists.
The rotating exhibits can often be rather “funky”, and they offer a nice insight into contemporary artistic expression. Its extensive holdings include pieces from significant art movements and trends, featuring painting, sculpture, photography, and installation art.
If you're tired of antiquity after all the other historical museums and monuments in the city, this is the place to go!
MOMus (Thessaloniki’s museum of photography)
I'm passionate about photography, so if a city has a photography museum in its cultural offering, I always make a beeline to it. So, while I’m biased, I think this is a great museum, and if you have any interest in photography, I think you’ll enjoy it a lot too.
It hosts a diverse range of exhibitions, so expect to encounter a nice lineup of contemporary works, historical retrospectives, and thematic exhibitions.
The museum is in the picturesque old port area and is housed in a former warehouse, so its a cool spot to check out both for architectural and artistic reasons.
A few suggested activities
Explore the city’s markets
I love diving into the local culture by wandering through Thessaloniki’s bustling markets and sampling the local delicacies. Plan to spend a good 2-3 hours between the 3 main markets ( each described below). You can also stop there for a full lunch.
Modiano Market, recently restored, this is a glass-roofed hall built in 1912 thanks to a local Jewish architect called Modiano. It’s the most popular market in the city, offering fresh produce, meats, seafood, olive, spices, and cheese, as well as a variety of food stalls where you can taste Greek traditional dishes like bougatsa, koulouri, and ouzo, an anise-flavored liqueur.
Kapani Market is a maze of narrow cobbled alleyways reminiscent of the old Ottoman bazaars. Locals love to do their grocery shopping here (including me any time I stay here for an extended visit!) and you can find fruits, veggies, seafood, and meat (in addition to clothes and souvenirs).
Bezesteni Market is among the few covered Ottoman markets to have survived in Greece (in Turkish, “bedesten” - similar to bezesteni - means covered). It dates back to the 15th century and was originally intended to be a secure place for merchants to trade textiles and other goods. Its impressive six-domed building still has vendors selling jewelry, flowers, carpets, crafts, antiques, and also food products.
The Ottoman era Bezesteni market. Photo: Joyofmuseums, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Watch the sunset from the old city walls
My absolute favorite thing to do in Thessaloniki is watching the sun set over the harbor, and the best place in the city to do this is from the west-facing old city walls in the upper town.
At dusk, hoards of people (locals included) gather here to watch the sunset, so come early to get a good seat. The magnificent Mount Olympus is a great backdrop, while the lower town lights up in the sun’s glow.
Take a boat ride in the harbor
If you want to get out on the water rather than just look at, you have a couple of options:
There are lots of quick, 30-minute rides on any number of sailboats, all which depart from the promenade just a bit past the white tower. Most of them have bars on board, and it’s nice to have a drink while cruising around the harbor. This is definitely a touristy experience, but it’s a nice one. The boats depart all throughout the day, so you’ll never have to wait long.
Alternatively, there are a few ships that offer dinner cruises, so if you’re after a meal with a view, this is a good choice.
And for more time on the water, you can also book a half or full-day trip to Shipwreck Bay.
Stroll along the waterfront promenade
Being set on a natural harbor, Thessaloniki has been an important port city throughout its history and the city’s life still revolves mainly around the waterfront. My favorite time to stroll along the seaside promenade is just after breakfast, when the Aegean Sea sparkles under the morning sun, and you can have a perfect view of Mount Olympus.
This is where you’ll find Thessaloniki's most famous landmark, the White Tower. Continue past it and you’ll reach the Umbrellas, an iconic art installation that features umbrellas suspended on 13-meter tall steel poles, erected in 1997 by the sculptor George Zogolopoulos. It’s a great photo opportunity! It’s a very popular meeting point at sunset, as the views are great and the umbrellas also light up at night.
Not far from the umbrellas, you can admire the statue of Alexander the Great standing on a rearing horse. It commemorates the king of Macedonia and the conqueror of the ancient world.
The entire expanse of the waterfront promenade is lined with parks and workout areas, so you’ll find lots of locals jogging and exercising in the adjacent green spaces.
You can walk along the sea for kilometers, and doing so will take you out into some very pretty residential neighborhoods of the city, so a long walk here is a nice way to explore some other neighborhoods (you’ll have to dip off the promenade and head inland to really explore them, of course).
Sample local wines
For anyone who likes wine, a day trip to the nearby wine region of Naoussa is a really nice activity and a great chance to sample some of Macedonia's finest wines. You can of course visit the vineyards on your own, or go as part of a guided tour.
Visit typically include vineyard tours, tastings, and an introduction to local winemaking traditions.
Attend the Thessaloniki International Film Festival
If you’re in town during the Thessaloniki International Film Festival, held annually in November, don’t miss the chance to attend.
This is the most important film festival in Greece and it showcases up-and-coming filmmakers and offers screenings along with interesting workshops.
Do like the locals and have a bougatsa to start your day
The most local thing you can do in Thessaloniki is to start the day by eating bougatsa for breakfast. Ok, I’ll confess: I like to eat it at any time of day! This custard pie made with filo pastry is served both in sweet and savory versions, and is most commonly eaten for breakfast. I especially love the sweet variety but you should try them all!
Bougatsa originates from Asia Minor (now Turkey) and was brought to Greece during the Ottoman rule. Thessaloniki is recognized as the spiritual home of bougatsa and there are dozens of bakeries in town where it’s still handmade.
It’s served warm, pre-cut into bite-sized squares, and is usually dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
Where to stay
Colorful restaurants in Ladadika. Photo: CeeGee, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Thessaloniki has a variety of distinct neighborhoods, and which one appeals to you will depend on your tastes. But for central neighborhoods that have a broad appeal and offer a good mix of history, nightlife, and a local experience, the neighborhoods of Ano Poli, Ladadika, Aristotelous Square, and Vardaris would be my picks.
If you want to stay somewhere slightly removed from the busy center and that feels a little more coastal, take a look at Agia Triada.
Each of these has a wide range of accommodation options, most of which can be had at very reasonable prices.
The vast majority of hotels, especially higher end and boutique ones, are located in the waterfront stretch running from the port over to the neighborhood of Agia Triada (where the Museum of Byzantine Civilization is located).
Ladadika
This area, once Thessaloniki’s Jewish quarter, sits behind the port and near to the Museum of Illusions. It’s known for its colorful buildings, busy atmosphere (lots of bars, clubs and restaurants here), and historic charm. It’s a good base for travelers who want to be near restaurants, bars, and nightlife, as well as the city’s major attractions.
Parts of it can feel a bit like a theme park at times, as it’s definitely one of the more tourism-oriented neighborhoods in the city. Still, it’s a convenient place to stay and despite the tourist focus it’s pleasant to stroll around, stopping to grab a bite to eat or drink at the many bars and restaurants. That said, if you want to experience local life, this is certainly not the right neighborhood for you.
ON Residence - Very elegant, overlooking the water, and just a few minutes’ walk from Aristotelous Square, ON is tough to beat if you’re looking for a little luxury. Rooms start at around $200 USD.
Mediterranean Palace - This hotel is in the heart of what used to be Thessaloniki’s Jewish quarter, and now located near to the port. Rooms are bright, big, and airy with elegant touches, modern bathrooms, and water views. Rooms from $150 USD.
Noa Hotel - Near the port and overlooking the water, this modern hotel puts you close to everything at a reasonable price. Nightly rates start at $115 USD.
Aristotelous Square
This is the central square of Thessaloniki and one of the busiest areas of the city. Staying here puts you at the heart of the action and within an easy walk of just about everywhere you’ll want to go.
Near the waterfront, flanked by shops and cafes, and with easy access to public transport, this is the ideal base for those who want to be in the city’s commercial hub. Hotels here tend to be a bit more expensive, but they’re usually of very high standards.
To be clear, this is really part of Ladadika, but because there are so many hotels within a couple of blocks of this main square, I think it’s useful to list it as a separate area.
Elektra Palace - Overlooking Aristotelous Square, this hotel is refined, but casual and has a gorgeous rooftop seating area and pool. Rooms from $200.
Daios Luxury Living - Another high-end, design-forward hotel with a fantastic rooftop bar. Nightly rates from $165 USD.
The Excelsior - Smaller and a little more boutique than the other two options here, this is a very nice upscale hotel. Rooms from around $160 USD per night.
The Modernist - A few streets back from the water, The Modernist is in an area that’s still super central but a bit less busy and slightly less touristy. You can usually find a room for $160 USD.
Colors Hotel - This place is cute, cheerful, and immaculately clean. Nightly rates are typically $100 USD.
Hotel Luxembourg - A budget-friendly option in a great location that offers comfortable rooms and a friendly atmosphere. The cost per night is about $75 USD.
Ano Poli (Upper Town)
This historic neighborhood built along a hill and a bit removed from the center, is characterized by its traditional architecture and stunning views of the city. This area is quieter and offers a more local experience, making it ideal for travelers wanting to explore cultural sights and enjoy picturesque walks.
Most of the accommodation options here are apartments/flats, but there are a few small hotels and guesthouses.
The Caravan - Right at the foot of Ano Poli, so offering easy access to it while still being close to Ladadika, the rooms here are colorful and homey. Rooms from $115 USD.
Pella Hotel - A good budget option with basic but comfortable rooms and conveniently located near major attractions. Nightly rates start at $60 USD.
Vardaris
This is a less touristy neighborhood northwest of the city center (and near to the train station) that offers a nice glimpse into the daily life of locals. You can find a good range of cafes, markets, and shops here, most of which cater to locals, not tourists.
It's a good area for those who want a more authentic experience while still being close to the city center. Like Ano Poli, you don’t have tons of hotels, and those that you will find are typically smaller and more classic European.
One thing to keep in mind is that parts of the neighborhood can feel a little bit seedy at nighttime. The further north and northwest you go, the more this becomes prevalent.
Vanoro Hotel - Housed in a former tobacco warehouse dating back to 1937, the hotel offers 45 minimalist, but nicely renovated rooms. The hotel is a 15-minute walk to the city center, so you get the benefit of a local neighborhood while still being close to everything. Average nightly rates are about $140 USD.
Onoma Hotel - Super modern and very new, Onoma offers really good value for money. The rooftop pool is small, but nice to have. Rooms from $100 USD.
Sky Studios - If you want to be able to cook and/or have a bit more space when back in your room, the studios and little apartments here are quite nice. Studios from $80 USD.
Hotel El Greco - Simple, but pleasant and well taken care of, this is a very solid option for anyone on a budget. Rooms from $50 USD.
Agia Triada & Analipsi
I’ve combined these two neighborhoods to the south of the city center because Analipsi is adjacent to Agia Triada (it’s further south).
This area running along the coast is a great choice for anyone who wants to stay in a local part of town. It’s both residential and commercial and the waterfront stretches the entire length of both neighborhoods, filled with leafy parks and green spaces.
There’s lots of pretty neoclassical architecture and especially along Leof. Vasileos Georgiou street, there are lots of ornate palaces and mansions, many of which have been repurposed into cafes, restaurants, and cultural centers. Restaurants and shops cater to a local crowd so it’s a nice break from more touristy areas.
Makedonia Palace - A lovely modern hotel with spacious and well appointed rooms right by the water. The rooftop has a pleasant seating area and the hotel also has a very large pool. Nightly rates begin at around $180 USD.
Villa Clio - Located inside of a renovated neoclassical building, the design here is eclectic and unique. It’s a nice mid-range option in a pleasant residential area. Rooms from $125 USD.
Restaurants & dining
Thessaloniki is known for being the culinary capital of Greece and is widely said to have the best cuisine in the entire country. Owing to its history of conquest (having been ruled by many different civilizations), and the city’s location in the north of the country near Macedonia and Bulgaria, the cuisine here has a diverse mix of influences and flavors.
Must-try dishes
Bougatsa: A popular local pastry, typically filled with custard, cheese, or minced meat, and best enjoyed fresh from the oven. Sweet versions are often sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
Souvlaki: Grilled meat skewers, usually served with pita and tzatziki sauce. This is a staple street food everywhere in Greece.
Fried fish: With its coastal location, Thessaloniki is known for fresh seafood. Fried calamari and sardines are popular choices, often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon.
Meze: Small plates of various dishes meant for sharing. Favorites include grilled octopus, feta cheese drizzled with olive oil, olives, and a variety of dips like taramosalata, tzatziki, and hummus.
Gemista: Vegetables like tomatoes and peppers stuffed with rice, herbs, and sometimes minced meat, then baked in a flavorful tomato sauce.
Tsoureki: A traditional Greek sweet bread flavored with spices like mahleb and mastiha. It is typically braided before baking, making it a popular treat during Easter celebrations. In Thessaloniki, you can taste it all year round.
Koulouri: A type of circular bread characterized by its sesame-coated crust and chewy texture. It is a popular street food to grab on the go, making it a favorite for breakfast or a mid-day snack.
Trigona: This traditional Greek pastry originates from the region of Thessaloniki. It is a triangular-shaped dessert filled with creamy custard. Your best bet to enjoy a very good trigona is at Elenidis.
Ouzo: A traditional anise-flavored aperitif, often enjoyed as a social drink.
Recommended restaurants
Ta Karamanlidika Tou Fani: This deli restaurant offers a casual setting and a relaxed atmosphere, making it great for a casual lunch or quick dinner. Try their gemista and cured meats platters.
Yahni: A cozy spot known for its homemade dishes inspired by traditional family recipes. The interior is charming and rustic. Do not miss the stifado (beef stews) and their delicious vegetarian moussaka.
Ouzerie Palia Ano Poli: Located in the picturesque Ano Poli (Upper Town), this ouzeri offers a great selection of meze and fine ouzo. The view is equally captivating. What to order? Grilled octopus, fried sardines, and calamari.
Vogatsikou 3: This modern bistro focuses on seasonal ingredients and offers creative dishes and an excellent wine selection in a contemporary setting. The octopus in red wine sauce is a must-try.
Mermigka: Looking for a fine dining experience? Mermigka merges culinary artistry with traditional Greek flavors. The ambiance is intimate and sophisticated.
Mokka: A trendy café known for its specialty coffee, light bites, and homemade pastries. A great place to relax after exploring the city.
Karamanlidika: Aside from being a restaurant, this place serves as a deli and a bakery, offering a range of local delicacies, cured meats, and traditional sweets. They also offer the traditional bougatsa.
Bougatsa Bantis: This local joint not far from the train station offers a classic bougatsa. The owner, Philippos Bantis, is considered the Bougatsa master of the city.
Serraikón: Located near Modiano Market, this is considered the oldest bougatsa cafe in town. Its super-crunchy bougatsa is not to be missed.
Ouzerie Lola: Warm atmosphere, reasonable prices, welcoming and attentive waitstaff, and delicious seafood dishes.
Terkenlis: This famous pastry shop offers a mouthwatering tsoureki with a wide variety of sweet and savory options. An absolute must-visit.
Charoupi: An old-style eatery in Ladadika offering dishes typical of Crete. Try their dakos, a crusty bread topped with tomatoes and feta cheese.
Seafood at Modiano Market: I highly recommend grabbing lunch at the market, as this is one of the best places in town to get freshly prepared seafood. Frutti di Mare and Tsir Tsir Meze are always good choices.
Places to visit nearby
Mount Olympus
Add an extra day to your trip here if you want to climb Mount Olympus, the highest mountain in Greece, 2,918 meters high. It is known in Greek mythology as the home of the gods and the stunning landscapes of this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve offer a variety of hiking trails.
One of the most beautiful (and most popular) paths is the one that runs along the Enipeas Gorge, which stretches 9 km and will take half a day. After the hike, you can reward yourself with a hearty meal in the picturesque village of Litochoro (where the hike starts and ends).
Mount Olympus, seen from Petra. Photo: Cristo Vlahos, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Vergina
Less than an hour from Thessaloniki lies the archaeological site of Vergina, home to the ancient royal burial site of the Macedonian kings, including the tomb of Philip II, which houses impressive archaeological artifacts.
It’s an easy half-day trip and is an excellent choice for anyone interested in archaeology (which should be just about everyone visiting Greece, right?!).
Edessa and Pella
About 90 km west of Thessaloniki, Edessa is the perfect spot to experience the natural beauty of Greece's waterfalls and to enjoy an ancient town well-known for its history and stunning views.
Along the way, stop at the historical site of Pella, which was the former capital of Macedonia and features well-preserved archaeological sites and lovely mosaics dating back to the Hellenistic period.
Edessa and its impressive waterfalls. Photo: Perrygogas, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Kavala
A stroll through this charming coastal city is a chance to see some impressive architecture, a picturesque harbor, and the nearby ancient ruins of Philippi. Kavala is about 150 km northeast of Thessaloniki and is famous for its gorgeous waterfront.
It’s also a very historic place, having been founded in the 7th century BC. Later, due to being right along the path of the Via Egnatia, an ancient Roman miltary road, it became an important center of commerce and trade in the Roman and Byzantine eras.
It was eventually captured by the Ottomans in the 14th century, and remained under their rule for hundreds of years, so this is most definitely somewhere that will give you a flavor for the tumultuous and varied history of this region.
It has a couple of major attractions, such as the magnificent ancient aqueduct, extensive city walls and an impressive fortress, pretty Ottoman era architecture, and beautiful beaches, so you can easily fill up a full day here between sightseeing and lounging.
Photo: Mpb eu, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Best beaches in the area
A beach in the Halkidiki Peninsula. Photo: Sprint28, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Thessaloniki lies quite close to many lovely beaches, so if your visit here coincides with good weather, it would be a travesty if you didn’t make it out to the beach at least once. Here are a few of my favorites:
Perea and Agia Triada
There are a few beaches right on the outskirts of the city, among which I think Perea and Agia Triada are some of the best. About 20 kilometers from the city center, these golden sandy stretches are well organized and equipped with sun beds and umbrellas.
In summer, a boat links these “city” beaches to the White Tower, and the journey takes about 50 minutes. Tickets cost €7.
Nea Michaniona
Nea Michaniona, 30 km from Thessaloniki, is a quiet place with a great view - ideal if you’re looking for a break from the city bustle. If you like water sports, head to the nearby beaches of Angelochori or Epanomi to practice windsurfing and kitesurfing.
Halkidiki Peninsula
The Halkidiki Peninsula is a bit further away than the beaches above, but it’s well worth the added drive as the beaches here are magnificent and can compete with anywhere else in Greece.
The entire peninsula is known for its striking landscapes, crystal-clear waters, and charming villages. With three prongs jutting into the Aegean Sea - named Kassandra, Sithonia, and Mount Athos - each offers its unique allure and has a wide selection of beaches.
Kassandra (one of the fingers of the peninsula)
The beaches of Kassandra, such as Sani and Kalithea, are perfect for sunbathing, while the pristine coves of Sithonia, like Vourvourou and Kavourotripes, are ideal for swimming and snorkeling.
Do not miss the picturesque village of Afitos in Kassandra, known for its traditional stone houses and tavernas. For lunch, stop by a seaside taverna in Nikiti, where you can savor fresh seafood while overlooking the beautiful harbor.
For a truly unique experience, visit the monasteries of Mount Athos, a UNESCO World Heritage site that requires special permits to access (ask for it in advance here). Keep in mind that only men are allowed.
How to spend 3 days in Thessaloniki
Day 1: the main historical sights
The first stop for just about every visitor is the iconic White Tower, the symbol of the city, located right on the waterfront. From here, walk along the waterfront promenade and enjoy the views of the Thermaic Gulf with Mount Olympus looming in the distance.
Next, explore the impressive Rotunda and Arch of Galerius, dating back to the 4th century AD. Both are spectacular examples of Byzantine architecture, and the Rotunda, formerly a church, is one of the earliest Christian sites in the east of the Roman Empire.
Afterward, head to the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki, where you can see artifacts from Macedonia. Then, head to the picturesque and historic neighborhood of Ano Poli (Upper Town) for lunch and to explore the area. This part of town boasts beautiful Byzantine structures and panoramic views of the city, and is totally different from the more modern and busier areas down below.
When you’re ready to leave the area, head down to Aristotelous Square, the city’s monumental central square that sits right on the waterfront. Find a restaurant nearby and be sure to sample traditional dishes such as moussaka or souvlaki.
After dinner, enjoy a stroll in the port area.
Day 2: Cultural immersion
Begin your second day with a visit to the Byzantine Walls, where you can take a scenic walk and gain an appreciation for the historical significance of these fortifications.
Continue to the Church of Agios Demetrios, the largest church in the city and one that honors the patron saint of Thessaloniki. Do not miss the crypt beneath it, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Next, go for a wander through the nearby Modiano and Kapani Markets, where you can experience the local food culture and pick up some unique products. You can also have your lunch there, grabbing a smattering of anything and everything that looks good. It should be quite cheap and is a fun way to try a lot of different local foods.
In the afternoon, visit the Museum of Byzantine Culture, renowned for its collection of artifacts from the Byzantine era. Afterward, if you’re feeling up for a bit more culture, the Museum of the Macedonian Struggle is interesting for learning about the city and area’s more “modern” history, while the Museum of Contemporary Art often has very cool (and very strange - in a good way!) exhibits.
Finally, wrap up your day in the vibrant Ladadika district, filled with restaurants and bars - the perfect place to get a taste of Thessaloniki’s very good nightlife scene.
Day 3: Day trips or a bit of urban relaxation
If you have a third day to spare, consider renting a car and setting out for the gorgeous beaches and charming villages of the Hakidiki Peninsula. This is an region of little peninsulas that jut out into the sea like fingers, each dotted with beautiful beaches, an azure blue sea, and lovely little towns.
Alternatively, spend the day visiting the nearby Mount Olympus (the gateway tot he mountain is the nearby town of Litochoro), where you can do some hiking and catch genuinely breathtaking views. The Enipeas Gorge hike is a perennial favorite, and will eat up the better part of the day if you do the whole out and back hike (there are also options to go just one way and catch a taxi ride for the other).
Or, if you’d prefer to stay in the city, you can enjoy a leisurely morning at the any of the city’s excellent museums or cultural centers that you haven’t already made it to. Have lunch at one of the waterfront restaurants, and then spend your afternoon lounging in Aristotelous Square, where you can people-watch and enjoy a coffee in the sun.
In the evening, take a relaxing stroll along the waterfront promenade and enjoy a quick boat ride on one of the sailboats that take you around the city’s harbor. The ships depart regularly throughout the day and there are a couple to choose from. If you go around sunset, it’s the perfect way to end your time in the city.
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