Two Itineraries for One Week in Sicily: East and West
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Italy’s largest island, Sicily is unlike anywhere else in the country. It offers bustling cities, charming villages, splendid beaches, amazing archaeological sites, gorgeous countryside, and terrific food.
A summer visit is a splash of sea and sun, but because there’s so much to see and do, you can genuinely come any time of year. The fall is perfect for road trips and sightseeing while the spring offers ideal conditions for hiking and other outdoor activities. And to see a different side of Sicily with no other visitors around, the winter provides a glimpse into the island at its most authentic.
While this incredible bounty makes Sicily a wonderful place to visit, it also makes it challenging to do so! With so much to see and do (and so much ground to cover - Sicily is big!), you can’t see everything in a limited amount of time.
So if you only have a week, you’ll have to make some hard decisions about where to go, and where to cut out.
With that in mind, this article details two separate one week itineraries, one beginning in Catania and covering the eastern side of the island, and the other starting from Palermo and covering the west.
Happy planning!
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Table of Contents
How to get around Sicily
East Sicily itinerary
West Sicily itinerary
Plan your itinerary with local help
In the article below we’ve tried to put together a comprehensive itinerary that covers the highlights of the east and includes a few hidden gems. But Eastern Sicily is full of treasures, so we couldn’t cover it all.
If you could use some help coming up with the ideal plan for your visit, consider scheduling a Sicily travel consultation with our Palermo-based local expert, Dania.
These are one-hour Zoom calls where you get to chat with Dania about the trip you’re planning and she’ll share her tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.
How to get around
Before I get into the itinerary, it’s important to cover how you should plan on getting around during your trip.
To be frank, Sicily in general does not have good public transport. Our train network has always been woefully inadequate and trains are old, slow, and often late. Most cities also aren’t well-connected by trains. Unlike in the rest of Italy, buses are actually the primary means of public transport here and they’re often faster than trains (if a train route even exists).
While a few of the places on these two itineraries itinerary are reachable by train (and all of the major towns and cities reachable by bus), if you only have 7 days you don’t have the time to use public transport. To make either itinerary work in just one week, you need to a car.
Also, having a car will give you the freedom to make stops along your route, get into the countryside, explore secluded beaches, and really make much better use of your time.
Where to rent a car
All the big car rental companies have offices in Sicily and you also have many local agencies. If you begin your visit in Catania or any other larger city, you’ll find plenty of options for car rentals.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
One Week Eastern Sicily Itinerary
Eastern Sicily includes the major sights of Catania, Taormina, and Mount Etna.
It’s also home to Sicily’s prettiest beaches and a clutch of beautiful Baroque cities in an area known as the Val di Noto. Here, you’ll be able to explore elegant places like Syracuse, Ortigia, Noto, and Ragusa as well as the charming small towns of Scicli and Modica.
This itinerary covers all that and more.
The plan starts off with three days in Catania. Your first day is dedicated to exploring the city. The next two days, you use Catania as your base for day trips, first to Taormina and then to Etna.
On your 4th day, say goodbye to Catania and hello to the Val di Noto. You’ll spend one day each in and around the cities of Syracuse, Noto, and Ragusa.
Your final day is spent back in Catania and along a stretch of coast known as the Riviera dei Ciclopi which is home to some lovely seaside towns and pretty beaches.
Let’s have a look!
Day 1: Catania
Your trip starts in Catania, the main city on the east coast of Sicily. With a population of 300,000, this is Sicily’s second largest city and it’s full of vitality and energy. It sits right on the coastline, in the shadow of the volcano Etna.
It is also known as the “Black City” due to its distinctive architecture, mainly built using volcanic stone, and the city center is a veritable treasure chest full of gems to discover.
Because Catania is a good base for day trips to Taormina and Mount Etna (and because packing and unpacking is a drag!), you’ll spend 3 nights here.
Morning
Begin your exploration of Catania by spending a few hours walking through the historical center. Here, discover a very peculiar Baroque style unique to this region of Sicily. The distinctive style characterizes the region because in 1693 the entire area was razed to the ground by a strong earthquake. The cities, including Catania, were all rebuilt in this late-flourishing evolution of Baroque.
As you wander, you’ll surely also note that churches and palaces are mainly built in a grayish-black volcanic stone, an architectural singularity of the towns and cities of the Val di Noto region (the southeastern part of Sicily) of which Catania is a part.
A walk through the center should start right at Piazza Duomo in front of the city’s cathedra which was reconstructed in Baroque style over the remains of an 11th-century Norman church. In the center of the square is the Liotru fountain which contains a statue of a large lava-stone elephant carrying an obelisk. It's the symbol of the city.
Nearby, be sure to visit the church of Sant’Agata alla Badia with a bizarre concave-convex façade. Climb the stairs to reach the panoramic terrace and enjoy a 360 degree view over Catania.
Now, continue along Via Etnea to Piazza Università where you’ll see Vaccarini’s Palazzo Sangiuliano and Palazzo Università (duck inside to have a look at its cobblestone courtyard). Stop at the intersection known as Quattro Canti to admire impressive Baroque balconies, then head to the parallel street of Via Crociferi which is by a sequence of Baroque churches and old monasteries.
Complete your tour of historic Catania by discovering the Benedictine monastery, dating back to the 16th century. It was nearly destroyed by the lava eruption in 1669 and rebuilt after the earthquake in 1693.
The monastery has a grand façade in Baroque style, balconies supported by gargoyles, an impressive staircase with stuccoworks, frescoed rooms, two peaceful cloisters, and a garden built on lava. Guided tours of the monastery depart every hour and last 90 minutes.
If you haven’t had your fill of churches and viewpoints, after the monastery you can head next door to the church of San Nicolò La Rena, where you can climb onto the roof for a great view over Catania and all the way to Etna.
Time for lunch! Head to Piazza Scammacca where a former church now hosts four thematic restaurants, a wine shop, and a pastry shop. There’s also an exhibition space.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, visit Palazzo Biscari, a noble palace still inhabited by Prince Biscari’s heirs. During the 18th century, it was a mandatory stop on any “Grand Tour” trip. Here, you can admire the prince’s archaeological and art collections and marvel at the sheer splendour of the palace itself, built atop a section of the city walls.
If you’re lucky, the current heir himself will guide you through a majestic Rococo-style ballroom, paintings depicting his ancestors (he’ll tell family anecdotes!), and a bedroom with rosewood wooden panelling and a stunning 1st-century floor. Guided tours last 45 minutes.
From here, head to Via Vittorio Emanuele to see Catania’s Roman ruins. Start at the Roman theater dating back to the 2nd century AD. Next to it is also a smaller odeon; a building used for musical performances in antiquity.
A short distance, you can see the so-called Terme della Rotonda, ruins of Roman baths on which a Byzantine church was later built. Be sure to also pass by the Roman Amphitheater on Piazza Stesicoro. Figure that a leisurely wander through this area will take you about an hour.
Evening
At sunset, have a drink on the rooftop of the Ostello degli Elefanti. It’s actually a hostel, but the terrace off its bar offers gorgeous views over the city center, with Mount Etna looming in the distance.
At dinner time book a table at Canni e Pisci. Locals love this cozy little restaurant serving excellent food. The area around it is lively at night, so enjoy a walk before going to bed.
Overnight in Catania
The city center is your best choice to stay in Catania as the main attractions will never be more than a 10-15 minute walk. The area between Piazza Duomo and Piazza Teatro Massimo is busier at night and more lit up, while the backstreets around Castello Ursino are quieter. Here are three hotel options I like:
Asmundo di Gisira - €230 per night.
Palace Catania - Around €200.
Liberty Hotel - Rooms from around €150 per night.
Day 2: Day trip to Taormina
Once a busy Greek city, Taormina, perched high on a promontory jutting into the sea, later became a destination loved by local nobles, then Grand Tour travellers, and finally movie stars. Now, it’s a glossy hotspot not to be missed by anyone wanting to experience a little taste of Dolce Vita.
Morning
Today, get an early start and head straight to Taormina, about 50 minutes from Catania. A charming town located on cliffs rising over a glistening coast, Taormina was a flourishing Greek city in antiquity and then became a popular tourist destination during the 18th century. It’s now a chic town favored by wealthy locals, celebrities, and well-heeled visitors.
Although Taormina can be a bit touristy and get very crowded in summer, it’s still an unmissable stop for anyone looking to get a taste of Sicilian dolce vita. For history and archaeology loves, the chance to see an excellently preserved Greek amphitheatre, medieval churches, and elegant palaces also makes it a worthwhile stop. If that’s not enough, the city also features a lovely garden with a view over Etna and a tiny beach in front of a fairy-tale island.
Start your visit with an unforgettable breakfast at Bam Bar; do as the locals and order a granita paired with a warm brioche. After filling up, dive into the city by strolling along the pedestrian Corso Umberto lined with boutiques, artisan shops, palaces like Palazzo Corvaja, and small churches.
Stop at Piazza IX Aprile, where you’ll be gifted with a marvellous view over the Ionian Sea, then head to the public garden. An English lady created it as a private garden in the 19th century and the views over Mount Etna are wonderful. Also make sure to stop at the city’s Duomo and the church of Santa Caterina, built on a former Greek temple. A leisurely wander through all these places will take you about 2 hours.
If you need a little pick-me-up after all that walking, make your way to the D’Amore pastry shop a few steps from Santa Caterina church and indulge in a freshly filled cannolo. Cannolo in hand (or in stomach!), now you’re ready to face the quick climb up Via Teatro to reach the 3rd century BC Greek theatre.
During summer the theatre hosts concerts and plays, so have a look at the schedule and come back at night to attend a performance! The theatre, aside from being stunningly preserved, also affords fabulous views over Etna and the Ionian sea.
After visiting, have a quick lunch at Da Cristina, a family-run restaurant serving delicious freshly fried arancini.
Afternoon
After lunch, take the cable car down to Isola Bella, a tiny island that is linked to the coast by a thin isthmus you can cross by walking. The island hides a villa carved into the rock and a nature reserve. Cable cars leave every 15 minutes and the ride takes just 3 minutes.
You’ll need about 30 minutes to visit the island, or you can simply laze on the beach, enjoying a refreshing swim. Yet another option is to hop on a boat and explore the nearby caves. Tours take 2 hours, departing regularly throughout the day from the beach in front of Isola Bella.
Spend the rest of your afternoon discovering the village of Castelmola, a bit higher in altitude Taormina. Castelmola has a magnificent view over the sea, the ruins of a Norman castle, and a maze of pretty cobbled streets to explore. Do not miss a stop at Caffè San Giorgio, on the main Piazza Sant’Antonio, to taste the local almond wine.
You can reach Castemola by car (10 minutes), bus (15 minutes), or a 45 minute walk along the Sentiero dei Saraceni, a short hike that connects the two towns. The walk starts from Piazza Goethe, about a 15-minute walk from Taormina’s city center.
Evening
At sunset, go back to Taormina and sit at the Sky Rooftop Bar inside the Hotel Continental to have a drink while the sun dips away behind Mount Etna.
If you booked a performance at the Greek Theater, it’s time to go. Otherwise, consider staying for dinner before returning to Catania for the night. Sit at an outdoor table at Osteria RossoDiVino where you can taste local delicacies in an intimate setting with views over a medieval palace.
Overnight in Catania
See hotel options above.
Day 3: Hiking on Mount Etna
If you’ve ever wanted to walk on the flanks of an active volcano, today is the day for you! Etna is Europe’s highest and most active volcano, and it’s an easy day trip from Catania.
You can climb it on foot, take a 4x4 tour, hop a ride on a cable car, and more options. Regardless of how you move around, you’ll get up close with the plumes of vapor coming out of its craters and feel its living breath under your feet. But no worries, it’s all perfectly safe! Just bring sturdy shoes (no flip-flops, please), lots of water, and some energy!
Morning
On your third day in Sicily, spend the day climbing Mount Etna. Locals call it Her Highness Mount Etna (yes, for us it’s female!) due to its majestic extension of 1200 square km dotted with extinct craters and four active ones continuously smoking (and sometimes erupting) around the summit.
The park is huge and offers a variety of landscapes, from desert volcanic areas to lush forests. There are so many outdoor activities to partake in here as well: hiking, biking, skiing, snowboarding, climbing, and exploring caves. Most of Etna is visitable independently (excluding the active craters, of course), but you can also hire guides for a variety of different tours/activities.
To start your exploration, drive to Rifugio Sapienza on the southern slope of Mount Etna, 55 minutes from Catania. This is a mountain hotel located in front of one of the cable cars, and there’s also a parking lot and trailheads right nearby. You can also get there by direct bus (2 hours, departing every morning).
From the parking lot at Rifugio Sapienza, you can hike independently about 30 minutes to the nearest Crateri Silvestri, inactive craters created during a massive eruption in 1892. They are easily accessible and offer a Mars-like landscape. A bit further, you can take the path leading to Schiena dell’Asino (2 hours, about 5,5 km) up to the edge of the Valle del Bove, an impressive valley where most of the lava flows collect.
Pack a lunch and bring it in your backpack today, or head back to the Rifugio Sapienza restaurant for a meal with a view over the lunar landscapes.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, you can go higher to explore the incredible landscape of the volcanic desert and enjoy a spectacular view over Sicily’s east coast. Take the cable car Funivia dell’Etna (departing from the Rifugio Sapienza) up to Montagnola at 2,500 meters above sea level. From there, you’ll have a sense of just how massive the volcano is.
You can continue your climb by walking or catching a ride in a 4x4 vehicle (Star company, tickets on-site) to reach Torre del Filosofo at 2,900 meters above sea level. The higher you go, the more mysterious the landscape becomes. You will feel like you have landed on another planet while walking on volcanic sand. It’s black but sparkles in the sun!
From here, if you want to go further up to the active craters and see where Etna’s magic happens, you must hire a professional guide at the wooden hut next to Torre del Filosofo. You can also arrange an excursion in advance here.
*If you won’t have a car or would like to have a guide with you for the day, local guides Mirco and Paolo both offer guided tours of Etna.
Evening
After a very full day enjoying the wonders of Etna, hop back in the car for the return trip to Catania.
If you’ve still got some energy left and want to partake in local nightlife, take a walk along Via Santa Filomena. It is a narrow street full of tiny restaurants serving all different types of local treats. I like FUD which offers burgers and sandwiches (including veg options) made using strictly Sicilian ingredients. They also have a good selection of wines and beers.
Overnight in Catania
See hotel options on day 1.
Connect with Dania in Palermo for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!
Day 4: Syracuse & Ortigia
At the height of its splendor, the Latin writer Cicero called Siracusa the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of all. With a population of 300,000, it rivaled Athens! You can still see the evidence of this past magnificence by walking through the remains of its Greek beauties.
Ortigia, an island connected to Syracuse by a bridge (and technically part of the city), is surprisingly different; all Baroque instead of Greek.
You’ll be spending the night in Syracuse.
Morning
Syracuse (Siracusa in Italian) is a splendid city on Sicily’s southeastern coast. Here, you’ll discover that there are two Siracusas though: the mainland, where its ancient Greek soul persists; and the small island of Ortigia (connected to the mainland by two bridges), where Baroque style explodes and today's Sicilian soul vibrates.
The drive from Catania to Syracuse is just under an hour, so you can get to the city in mid-morning to make the most of your time.
Start your visit wandering the Neapolis archaeological site which includes a Roman amphitheatre, an impressive ancient quarry named Latomia del Paradiso, the Eurialo castle, and the so-called Orecchio di Dionisio; an ear-shaped cave that amplifies every noise. A legend tells that the tyrant Dionysius used to imprison his enemies in the cave so that he could hear their conversations.
The superstar of the Neapolis is the majestic Greek theatre dating back to the 5th century BC. The theater also still hosts classical plays and from May to early July, you can come in the evenings to attend a performance. You can check the schedule and buy tickets here (or on-site).
A tour around the entire complex takes about 90 minutes.
Only about 500 meters away from the archaeological site is the Paolo Orsi Archeological Museum, among the most important in Sicily. You 100% should enter it, giving yourself at least 90 minutes to enjoy its treasures.
For lunch, head over to Ortigia. I recommend walking (30 minutes), but you can also catch minibus 2 to shorten the trip. If you take the bus, get off immediately after crossing the bridge.
Your destination now is Caseificio Borderi, a small local restaurant serving fantastic sandwiches stuffed with typical Sicilian products. Take your meal to go and enjoy it while sitting by the sea. If you want a more sit-down experience, you can dine al fresco right next door at Fratelli Burgio where they serve excellent charcuterie boards, accompanied by good local wines.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, wander Ortigia’s labyrinth of narrow streets packed with centuries-old palaces, Baroque churches, and two ancient temples.
Start exploring the island from the Doric temple of Apollo. Then, walk to Piazza Archimede, flanked by buildings from the Middle Ages onwards. Continue to Piazza Minerva, where you’ll see the columns of a former temple of Athena. Today, a Baroque church rises over it.
The crescent-shaped Piazza Duomo, lined by beautiful palaces such as Palazzo Arciverscovile and Palazzo Vermexio (now the town hall), it always a pleasure to sit in and watch the world go by. Two minutes away, you’ll stumble upon the Galleria Regionale di Palazzo Bellomo, an art gallery housed inside a 13th-century Catalan-Gothic palace, housing the painting “Annunciation” by Antonello da Messina.
After a quick visit inside the gallery, make your way down to the coast to discover the Fonte Aretusa fountain and its legend. According to the myth, the nymph Aretusa fled to Siracusa to escape the unwanted advances of the god Alphaeus. The goddess Diana transformed her into a spring to save her from her from him.
Continue your stroll along the road that encircles the island, leading out to the 13th-century Castello Maniace, a defensive fort at the extreme tip of Ortigia.
Evening
At sunset, enjoy a walk along the Lungomare Alfeo promenade, on the western side of the island. You can sit at a bar and sip an aperitif, or enjoy the sunset along the raised Foro Vittorio Emanuele II platform, a few steps ahead.
For dinner, dine at A putia delle cose buone, a tiny restaurant serving delicious home-style food with hearty portions and nice vibes.
Overnight in Siracusa
While visiting Siracusa, spending the night in Ortigia is the obvious choice. The most important sights are there and it also offers the prettiest views with its narrow streets, whitewashed buildings, and an alluring setting on the sea.
Here are a few good hotel options:
Grand Hotel Ortigia - From €250 per night.
Algilà Ortigia Charme Hotel - Rooms typically cost €200.
Antico Hotel Roma - Nightly rates from €200.
Maison Ortigia B&B - €130 or less per night.
Day 5: Road trip to Vendicari Nature Reserve, Marazamemi, and Noto
Today, be sure to have your swimsuit in the car as you’ll have the chance for a dip at some of Sicily’s most beautiful beaches.
Depart Syracuse in the morning, heading straight to the Vendicari nature reserve. After exploring (and swimming), it’s on to lovely Marzamemi town for lunch, a wander, and another swim.
You’ll finish the day in Noto, the most brilliant jewel of the Sicilian Baroque.
Cathedral of San Nicolò in Noto
Morning
Just 45 minutes from Syracuse, the Vendicari Nature Reserve is your first stop of the day. It’s a wetland with a 7 km stretch of pristine coast lapped by emerald green waters. Here, walk along the paths leading to Greek ruins, a Byzantine church, a Swabian tower, and an old tuna fishery.
Give yourself enough time to also relax on the secluded Marianeddi beach (great snorkeling here) or join the locals crowding the long sandy San Lorenzo beach. Laze here a couple of hours before heading to the fishing village of Marzamemi, a 25-minute drive along the coast.
Marzamemi is simply charming, boasting a golden piazza flanked by old fishermen's houses (now hosting restaurants and shops), two tiny churches, a large tuna fishery, and a noble 17th-century palace once inhabited by the Prince of Villadorata.
Stop in town for lunch on the main piazza. Sit at Liccamuciula, a restaurant/boutique that serves delicious seafood (especially red tuna) and sells quality artisan crafts. After lunch, you can relax on the city beach and dive into the crystalline waters.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, head to Noto, 30 minutes from Marzamemi. You’ll stay overnight to enjoy the sunset here; trust me, it’s a special moment.
Once you get to town, enjoy the city center full of Baroque churches and palaces. The sheer density of stunning buildings in Noto is incredible. It is not by chance that the city is called “the Garden of Stone” and all around you the city flourishes with the best examples of Sicilian late Baroque style.
Start your stroll from Porta Reale, one of the original city gates and follow the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Along your walk, you’ll pass by a series of beautiful churches leading up to the cathedral of Saint Nicolò. Opposite the cathedral are a number of elegant palazzos with wrought iron balconies supported by grotesque Baroque masks and figured. Of them, Palazzo Ducezio is worth entering for a quick visit.
After, continue to the church of San Carlo and climb its bell tower for a great view over the city center. Nearby on Via Cavour you have three noble palaces: Palazzo Castelluccio, Palazzo Astuto, and Palazzo Trigona Cannicarao. If you were to climb the bell tower and enter all three palaces, budget 2 hours for your entire exploration.
For a break, grab a seat and watch the world go by at Caffè Sicilia, a 130-year-old café serving tasty local treats. I suggest ordering an almond granita, a sacottino filled with ricotta, or a Montezuma gelato (or all three) as you wait for the sun to set, casting a warm golden light all over the city.
Evening
You’re staying in Noto tonight, so do as the locals do and kick back and enjoy the quiet rhythm of this sleepy town. Sit leisurely and sip a cocktail or a coffee while children play in the piazza and retired gentlemen chat over games of cards.
Dine at Manna, a charming restaurant in a former prince’s wine cellar that serves good typical Sicilian cuisine.
Overnight in Noto
Noto’s historic center is quite compact and this is where you’ll want to stay. By staying central, you’ll be close to all the main attractions.
Seven Rooms Villadorata - Rooms from €350.
Q92 - Nightly rates are around €280.
Welcome Garden - A room for two is €100.
Novecento Siciliano B&B - A double room costs €80.
Day 6: Baroque jewels of the Val di Noto: Modica, Scicli, and Ragusa
The Val di Noto is the name given to a large swath of territory that comprises most of southeastern Sicily, about 1/3 of the entire island. It’s not an official administrative area, but it roughly begins at Catania and stretches all the way south, covering the coast and inland territories. The cities and towns of the region were almost all destroyed in the 1693 earthquake, and they were rebuilt in the same architectural style, which we’ve already mentioned.
South of Noto lie three beautiful small cities: Modica, Scicli, and Ragusa. Ragusa has, in recent years become quite famous thanks to the TV series “Inspector Montalbano”. Scenes from the show were filmed all around the region, including in both Modica and Scicli. Whether you're a fan of the tv series or not, you’ll discover lots to enjoy in the area.
Ragusa is the biggest of the three cities, split between its Baroque old town and a rather non-descript modern town above it. Modica is a pretty city of 50,000 full of Baroque architecture, pleasant, squares, and narrow pedestrian streets. Scicli, much smaller than both other cities, is another pretty Baroque gem worth a quick wander.
You’ll be sleeping in Ragusa tonight.
Ragusa Ibla at dusk
Morning
Pack your bags and hit the road for a day exploring some of the Val di Noto’s prettiest towns.
40 minutes from Noto, Modica is built on a steep gorge and split in two; Modica Alta (upper) and Modica Bassa (low). Modica Alta is the medieval center . The city is built on a steep gorge so it is split in two, Modica Alta (high) and Modica Bassa (down). The first one is the historic/medieval center, a crazy tangle of stairways and narrow alleys, while Modica Bassa is the “new” town.
On arrival to town, park the car and make your way down a set of stairs leading to the Duomo di San Giorgio, where you’ll have a fantastic view. Do not miss the small church of San Nicolò Inferiore, carved into the rock in the 12th century. You can also visit the home of native son and Nobel prize-winning poet Salvatore Quasimodo.
Ok, enough about history and art though how about a snack?! If that’s a yes, then head to the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, a historical pastry shop. Here you have to try the local chocolate which is still made how the Aztecs did it centuries ago. Why? Because Chocolate was introduced during Spanish rule on Sicily and the Spanish, of course, brought chocolate back to Europe from the Americas.
A visit to Modica only takes a couple of hours so you’ll still have time for a late morning visit to Scicli, just 15 minutes away. The town is squished between two ridges and still retains its medieval layout, even if it was reconstructed in Baroque style after the 1693 earthquake.
Take a stroll along Via Penna admiring Palazzo Spadaro, Palazzo Bonelli-Patanè, and the town hall (comune), home to the imaginary Vigàta police station in the Inspector Montalbano TV series. The nearby “Antica Farmacia” was another filming set. A few steps away, check out the iron balconies held by grotesque masks at Palazzo Beneventano. Figure that you’ll spend an hour to an hour and a half looking around.
For lunch, choose Baqqala, right in front of Palazzo Beneventano. It’s an informal eatery serving good local food such as an unforgettable anchovy parmigiana. Ask for an outdoor table.
Afternoon
After lunch hop back in the car and drive to Ragusa, 40 minutes from Scicli. Ragusa, like Modica, is split in two: Ragusa Superiore is the modern city, while Ragusa Ibla is the oldest part. Before reaching Ragusa Ibla (where you’ll be spending most of your time), you’ll cross Ragusa Superiore, so be sure to stop to visit the huge church of San Giovanni Battista.
Driving in Ragusa Ibla is a challenge, so plan to park just at its edge in Piazza della Repubblica or park in Ragusa Superior and then walk down the 129 steps that connect to the two sides of town. While more work, walking rewards you with amazing views over the historic center.
Once there, meander around the tiny lanes, admire Baroque palaces and churches, and discover hidden courtyards with unexpected wrought-iron balconies. Then head to the main square and admire the cathedral of San Giorgio, a Baroque masterpiece. Many scenes of the TV drama Inspector Montalbano were shot here.
On the same piazza, you can see the noble palace Arezzo di Trefiletti, a mid-1800 aristocrats’ club called Circolo di Conversazione, and the Donnafugata theater. Expect to spend about 2 hours wandering the old city center.
You’ll probably be done in Ibla by the late afternoon, so you’ll still have time to grab the car and explore Ragusa’s surrounding before dinner. I’d suggest a quick drive to Donnafugata castle to visit the impressive 14th-century palace that was rebuilt in the 19th century emplying an interesting blend of architectural styles.
According to legend, the name of the castle derives from the widow Queen Blanche of Navarre, imprisoned here by Count Bernardo Cabrera who wanted to marry her. The queen managed to escape, hence the name of the castle - “Donnafugata” - which means “the woman who fled”. Tours of the site take 45 minutes, but expect to spend an additional half hour in the surrounding park hosting… a labyrinth!
*If you’d like to skip the driving and have a guide show you around, reach out to Paolo, a local guide based in Noto who runs tours all around Eastern Sicily.
Evening
Enjoy a relaxed evening in Ragusa. Before a well-deserved rest, have a hearty dinner at La Bettola, a family-run restaurant offering traditional food. Do not miss a slice of grilled caciocavallo, a local cheese. It is usually served with homemade fig jam.
Overnight in Ragusa
If you’re traveling by car, Ragusa Superiore will be your best choice to stay as it’s easier to park. Moreover, staying there is usually a fair bit cheaper. The location is fine as you can quickly get down into Ibla by bus or on foot.
However, if you want the best atmosphere, Ragusa Ibla is simply much more fascinating, especially at night when the town empties and silence and wonder rule.
Locanda Don Serafino - Nightly rates from € 180.
Relais Antica Badia - Average nightly rate is about € 125. This is in Ragusa Superiore.
A.D. 1768 Boutique Hotel - A room for two costs € 110.
Neropece - Rooms cost € 100.
Day 7: Catania and the Riviera dei Ciclopi
Your round trip discovering eastern Sicily ends back in Catania so you’ll have the opportunity to deepen your knowledge of a city still underrated but full of surprises. Today you’ll have time to visit the bustling fish market, trace the footsteps of a famous composer, explore Catania’s underbelly, and see a castle surrounded by lava.
To perfectly round out your trip, you’ll spend the afternoon at two pretty seaside towns on the lovely Riviera dei Ciclopi, just north of the city.
Acitrezza town on the Riviera dei Ciclopi
Morning
The way back to Catania from Ragusa takes about two hours, so I’d recommend getting moving early. Once in Catania, spend an hour browsing the lively Piscaria fish market located in the heart of the city. The chaos and joy in the market is a summation of all that Catania is. There are dozens of restaurants here, but ee sure to stop at Scirocco to taste a fritturina: a paper cone full of freshly-fried seafood.
Next, follow in the footsteps of famed Catanese composer Vincenzo Bellini. Begin at his house house on Via Vittorio Emanuele, a 5-minute walk from the market. Continue along the street until you reach the Teatro Massimo Bellini theater, located on the eponymous square. It was built in neo-Baroque style and inaugurated in 1890 with a performance of “the Norma”, Bellini’s most-known opera. The theater is open for guided tours, which take 45 minutes.
A renowned local pasta, topped with aubergines and ricotta salata and called pasta alla Norma, is inspired by the same opera. Every trattoria in Catania serves it. So, try one for lunch at Vuciata, less than 10 minutes walking from the theater. Do not miss the chance to try their sarde a beccafico, sardines stuffed with pine nuts, herbs, raisins, and breadcrumbs.
Afternoon
Spend the start of your last afternoon going underground! Because of Catania’s proximity to Etna, over the centuries lava flows from eruptions have altered and influenced the city’s development, especially the course of its river, the Amenano. The city has been rebuilt repeatedly, and sections of it have been erected directly on top of earlier construction, leading to part of the river now being underground.
You can trace some of this “scaffolding” by visiting the Roman-era Achillian Baths which are located under the cathedral. The Romans used the waters from the Amenano for the baths, and you can see it flowing underground. On the other side of the square, you can see the Fontana dell’Amenano, where the river comes out.
Less than 5 minutes away, you’ll stumble upon the Pozzo di Gammazita, an old well linked to the legend of a Catanese girl who preferred to die by throwing herself inside it than to marry an occupying French soldier.
A few steps away is the Castello Ursino, a Swabian castle now housing art collections and temporary exhibitions. A fortress on a rocky promontory by the sea, the castle was built in the 13th century by the emperor Frederick II and is now surrounded by hardened lava from an eruption in 1669.
To soak up the last rays of blissful Sicilian sun, leave Catania behind for a few hours and go north of the city to the Riviera dei Ciclopi, a rocky stretch of 12 km of coast. There are a few pretty towns along the coastline, many of which feature in legends and myths from the time of the ancient Greeks.
I recommend stopping at the coastal town of Acitrezza (30 minutes from Catania driving or by bus 534) for a dive among the faraglioni (imposing rocks rising out of the sea) created by underwater eruptions. Legend has it that the Cyclops Polyphemus threw those great stones into the water in an attempt to stop Odysseus from escaping.
As there is no proper beach, you can chill out on a large wooden platform/boardwalk that is raised over a section of hard volcanic rocks, giving sunbathers a place to lie down. You can also take a boat trip to Lachea Island right in front of the town.
Before heading back to Catania, briefly stop at Acicastello, another coastal town lying between Acitrezza and Catania. Here, see the Norman castle built on a lava outcrop that covered a Roman fortification. Stop at the nearby chiosco (food vendor) for a refreshing granita or a seltz limone e sale, a Catanian thirst-quenching drink made from freshly squeezed lemons, seltzer water, and a pinch of salt.
Evening
End your day dining at L’iska, a small yet lovely restaurant serving mainly fish. It is located near the fish market, not far from Castello Ursino. The street outside the restaurant has a canopy of colorful umbrellas strung above it, making it very charming to walk down (and eat on!).
If you’re up for an after-dinner drink, stop at Gammazita and toast to a wonderful trip!
Overnight in Catania
For some hotel options, see my suggestions provided under day 1.
One Week Western Sicily Itinerary
This itinerary will help you discover the essentials of the west coast. The journey starts in gorgeous Palermo, the capital and largest city in Sicily, a metropolis teeming with life. From there, you’ll explore the shoreline as you make your way to the coastal town of Cefalù.
Heading further west, you’ll be enchanted by the magnificent Doric temple in Segesta, can follow a marvelous hiking trail in the Lo Zingaro nature reserve, and then relax on a Caribbean-like beach in San Vito Lo Capo.
Not to be outdone by what you’ve already seen, hilltop Erice will fascinate you with its fairytale spirit and you’ll fall in love with Favignana, the largest of the Aegadian Islands just in front of Trapani.
Next, shoot over to Marsala to discover its salt pans and charming town. Nearby Selinunte, one of the largest archaeological sites in Europe, is always a pleasure.
Round out your adventure by wandering among the red stone buildings of Sciacca where you can also discover its ceramic and coral manufacturing tradition. In Agrigento, you can perceive the city’s past power as you gaze over the majestic Greek temples that dot its countryside.
Your trip will finish where it started – back in Palermo, where you’ll spend another wonderful day exploring bustling markets and quirky museums.
Intrigued? Then read on for a day-by-day plan.
Day 1: Palermo
Palermo, Sicily’s capital city of almost 700,000, is a lively Mediterranean center and a place full of contrasts and surprises. Let it steal your heart as you wander its markets, explore its noble palaces, and discover stunning churches.
Morning
Start your first day by exploring Palermo’s historic core.
Begin your exploration by walking along the central Via Vittorio Emanuele, an ancient street also called Càssaro by locals. Start from the intersection with Via Roma and expect about 1.5 km of walking.
As you wander, you’ll get to see the heart of noble Palermo unfold before you. Stop at the so-called Piazza della Vergogna (Square of Shame) with its Baroque Pretoria fountain adorned by nude and semi-nude statues and, a few steps ahead, the renowned intersection officially called Piazza Vigilena, but colloquially known as Quattro Canti. The theatrical square is surrounded by four fountains.
A little further on, admire the imposing Cathedral and do not miss a climb up its roof. From there, you will have a great view of the city center. Afterward, visit the Palazzo dei Normanni found at the end of the same street. This stunning building was the royal palace during the Norman’s reign in Sicily.
Visiting the palace takes about an hour, and the chance to marvel at the Palatine Chapel is reason enough to enter. The chapel is covered in stunning golden mosaics depicting biblical scenes.
Once you’ve finished exploring the Palace, continue down Vittorio Emanuele for another 15 minutes or so until you reach Vuccira Market, a bustling outdoor market with vendors selling everything from produce to meat, and little stalls preparing meals.
Be sure to sample the best street food in town: pani ca meusa (a spleen sandwich loved by locals), sfincione (a spongy bread topped with tomatoes, onions, anchovies, and oregano), and pane e panelle (chickpea fritters held in a sesame-seed bun).
Afternoon
In the afternoon, visit the churches of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (or La Martorana), San Cataldo, and Santa Caterina. For average visitors, expect it to take less than 1 hour to visit all three churches as they are all located on the same square, Piazza Bellini. It’s worth going inside each, as they offer quite different experiences.
The austere San Cataldo is built in Arabian-Norman style and has red domes; the sumptuous Martorana boasts opulent Baroque interiors; Santa Caterina offers a pleasant stop in its cloister garden while you taste sweet delights prepared by the nuns (do not miss their cannolo filled with ricotta).
After your sweet stop, get lost in the charming multi-ethnic neighborhood of Kalsa, among the most authentic in town (it’s just a few minutes walk away in the direction of the harbor).
Here you can discover an unfinished 16th-century church called Santa Maria dello Spasimo and some interesting street art like “Bakhita” by Rosk and Loste, witnessing Palermo’s cultural syncretism behind its identity, or “Federico II as a child” by Camilla Falsini, a tribute to the most loved king of Sicily (both the murals are on Via dello Spasimo).
During the day, the neighborhood still retains its popular appearance, while in the late afternoon it becomes a trendy and alternative area attracting locals eager to partake in Palermo’s nightlife. You could spend an hour here, or more if you want to join the local nightlife.
Evening
Have your dinner at the trattoria Ferro di Cavallo, about a 10-minute walk from Kalsa. And to really put the perfect end to a perfect day, wrap up your visit to Palermo with by enjoying a performance at the Teatro Massimo, less than 10 minutes from the restaurant.
Teatro Massimo is a gilded theatre dating back to the Art Nouveau period, and it now hosts concerts and operas (which have English subtitles, too). You can find the schedule here, and can also purchase tickets online in advance or at the ticket office on-site.
Before going to bed, enjoy a night walk in Palermo sparkling with lights. You can explore the area around the theatre and reach Piazza Olivella, just 3 minutes away. There, you will find a number of bars offering drinks and live music for a nightcap.
Overnight in Palermo
Palermo’s neighborhoods have quite different vibes and suit different travelers. To figure out where you should stay, you should first choose your mood! A few neighborhoods to consider are Ballarò, Kalsa, il Capo, and Castellammare. Here are some hotels I like:
Grand Hotel et Des Palmes - Rooms in high season cost around €300 a night.
Porta di Castro Boutique Hotel - A double room costs about €180.
Vossia Luxury Rooms & Sicilian Living - A room for two typically costs €180.
Bastione Spasimo Boutique Hotel - You can usually find a room for €170 per night.
Day 2: Day trip to Cefalù
Today, take a day trip to the pretty town of Cefalù.
Once a fishing village and today a pleasant holiday resort sitting between the sea and a craggy rock, the city offers a hilltop castle with great views over the sea, a stunning 12th-century cathedral with Byzantine mosaics, and an excellent city beach.
Morning
Get an early start this morning as the trip to Cefalù takes about 1 hour by train or car. If you take the train, there are multiple departures every hour starting from the early morning. If you drive, save yourself some hassle on arrival and park along Lungomare Giuseppe Giardina.
Also, keep in mind that while having the car for your day trip may sound tempting, it won’t save you much time and your return to Palermo could become a bit stressful as you’ll have to navigate the city center and park…
No matter how you get to Cefalù, start your visit with a walk along the beach admiring the postcard-perfect seaside town nestled under the imposing mastic, La Rocca, which rises directly behind the town.
From the beach, make your way to the trailhead which leads to the top of La Rocca. Expect to walk for about 40 minutes, enjoying the shoreline (you can also take a dip!).
Climb the rock to explore the ruins of a Norman castle and the Temple of Diana, dating back to Sicanian-Greek times. The short hike, starting from the end of the seafront, is 3,5 km long (round trip) and offers great views over Cefalù and the coast. Remember to bring water and sunscreen as the path has no shade.
Head back down from La Rocca and make your way to the town’s central square, Piazza Duomo, where you can visit the beautiful cathedral, an authentic Arab-Norman jewel dating back to 1131. If you’re tired after your hike, you can take a small electric shuttle bus (€5) to the old city center.
Once in town, grab lunch and be sure to try the local pasta a taianu, a dish traditionally served in an earthenware pot that is filled with fried eggplant, meat, pine nuts, pecorino cheese, and sultanas (a sort of raisin). A good spot to try it is Tinchité.
Afternoon
After lunch, check out the Mandralisca Museum, a small private museum displaying the lifelong collection of Baron Mandralisca, including the famous “Portrait of an Unknown Man” by Antonello da Messina.
Afterwards, enjoy a stroll through the narrow alleyways of the old town (while munching on a gelato of course - grab one at the Gelateria Squagghiò), and be sure to make a stop at the Lavatoio, a medieval washhouse carved into the rock and built atop the Cefalino River, which runs through the city. Being so compact, your walk around the old city center will only take about 30-40 minutes, without rushing.
Having explored the town, now it’s time to head to the beach! Walk along Lungomare Giardina to Cefalù’s city beach. Chill out and take a dip in the crystal-clear waters.
Evening
End your time in Cefalù walking along Porto Vecchio, the city’s old port: it's a great photo spot at sunset.
Whenever you’re ready to leave the town, it’s time to return to Palermo. Either catch the train (the last one is at 9 pm) or hop in the car and make the hour drive back.
If you’re looking for a lively evening, I’d suggest heading to Piazza Bellini, as the area around the square is filled with bars and restaurants and it stays busy until well into the night. If you’re looking for a late dinner, stop at U Babbio.
Overnight in Palermo
For hotel ideas, see my recommendations provided in day 1.
Day 3: Segesta, Scopello, Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve, San Vito Lo Capo, and Erice
Get ready for a full day and a fair bit of driving. On your 3rd day in Sicily, you’ll be road-tripping from Palermo to Trapani, making a series of stops along the way.
Explore temples and a theater lost in meadows at Segesta, an old tuna fishery in Scopello, Lo Zingaro nature reserve, a Caribbean beach in San Vito, and the medieval town of Erice: what a day!
Morning
Early in the morning, head to the Segesta archaeological park, about a 1-hour drive from Palermo.
Segesta is home to a stunning Doric temple surrounded by meadows and a majestic theater perched on a hilltop, which dates back to the 5th century BC and has stood there for more than 2,500 years.
Leaving Segesta in your rear-view, head to Scopello, 35 minutes away. This seaside village is small (a visit takes less than 30 minutes), but it has an ancient tuna fishery and an open-air museum (you should book in advance here).
After your quick stop, continue on to Lo Zingaro nature reserve (open 7 am – 7 pm) where you’ll spend the rest of the morning in a protected area ringed by mountains on one side and a sparkling sea on the other.
A 7 km path (each way, 14 km if you do the whole thing out and back) traces the entire nature reserve, but you could choose to walk just a part of it and then descend at some point towards hidden coves for a refreshing dip here and there. Alternatively, you could skip the path altogether and just spend the morning relaxing on the beach!
Whether you decide to spend your time at Lo Zingaro actively or leisurely (no judgement here!), you’re guaranteed to have a wonderful time - the reserve is a little slice of paradise on earth. Seriously, imagine verdant growth all around, dramatic cliffs jutting into the sea, endless views over the water, and a string of fabulous beaches.
For lunch, if you plan ahead you could have a picnic right in the reserve. There are two “picnic-equipped” areas (at Cala Tonnarella dell'Uzzo and Cala Capreria), with benches and tables sitting in the shade of a typical cannucciato, a kind of a canopy made of woven reeds.
Afternoon
If you prefer to have a proper lunch, make your way to San Vito Lo Capo to taste the local couscous influenced by Tunisian cuisine. Stop at Ristorante Rais to taste an authentic one.
After lunch, set aside an hour to laze on the town’s fabulous Caribbean-looking beach.
Whenever you’re able to tear yourself away from San Vito’s beach, hop back in the car and make the 50-minute drive over to the hilltop town of Erice.
Here, you’ll be amazed by the fairytale medieval alleys and the atmospheric setting. The best way to explore Erice is to plan nothing in advance, instead letting yourself be guided by curiosity. As you wander, you’ll stumble upon small yet fascinating medieval churches and an unfinished fort built during Spanish rule.
If you're lucky, you'll visit while the town is veiled in its typical thick fog, which locals call “Venus' embrace”. Do make sure to stop by the Castello di Venere, a Norman castle built on a former temple of Venus (from which the name of the fog derives!).
Evening
At sunset, enjoy Erice’s sweeping views over the Tyrrhenian coast, the salt pans near Trapani, and the Aegadian (Egadi) Islands. The best spot to take great photos is the Giardino del Balio, next to the castle.
End your day (and your time in Erice) tasting sweet delights at the island’s most famous pastry shop, Maria Grammatico. Do not miss the ricotta-filled genovese, the almond-based lingua di suocera, and the biscuits belli e brutti.
Your accommodation tonight will be in Trapani, so drive straight to the city. The journey takes 30 minutes, but be cautious as it is a winding, narrow mountain road.
If you're still hungry even after Maria Grammatico's desserts, stop for dinner at Osteria La Dolce Vita in Trapani (and order spaghetti with cuttlefish ink) before getting a much-deserved good night’s rest.
Overnight in Trapani
Trapani is small so you don’t have to think too hard about where to stay. Just pick somewhere you like in the city center! The city is significantly cheaper than most other popular destinations in Sicily, so it’s a very affordable place to stay too.
Just remember, the historic center is mainly closed to traffic, so if you travel here by car, ask your accommodation if they offer a reserved parking space.
Room of Andrea - A double room costs €200.
Central Gallery Rooms - Nightly rates are around €150.
Residence La Gancia - €150 per night.
Giardini Mon Plaisir - Rooms can sometimes be found for less than €100 a night.
Connect with Dania in Palermo for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!
Day 4: Favignana and Trapani
Leave mainland Sicily behind and visit the beautiful island of Favignana, the largest of 5 that comprise the Aegadian islands. Here, you can swim in stunning turquoise waters and relax on excellent beaches.
In the evening, you have time to discover Trapani, a port city with a relaxed atmosphere and an interesting city center that is closer to Africa than mainland Italy.
Morning
Trapani’s proximity to the Aegadian Islands (also called the Egadi islands) makes it simple to hop on a boat and enjoy a day trip to Favignana. The butterfly-shaped island lies just in front of the city, only 30 minutes away by hydrofoil.
Swim in its turquoise waters at Cala Rossa or Cala Bue Marino, on the east coast, about 5 km from the city center where the hydrofoil lands. Relax on the beach the whole morning or travel the island far and wide by bike (rent one next to the port) and discover more hidden coves such as Lido Burrone and Cala Rotonda.
Before leaving the island, hike up to the 15th-century Santa Caterina fort. It’s a short hike, about 2,5 km from the city center. From the top, you have a great view of the sea.
After the climb, you deserve a hearty late lunch before catching the hydrofoil back to Trapani. Your best choice is the Osteria del Sotto Sale.
Afternoon
Back in Trapani, dedicate the late afternoon to exploring the city’s honey-hued center. The city is quite compact. So strolling through its labyrinth of winding alleys lined with noble palaces will take you no more than a couple of hours.
I suggest that you start by walking along the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele, leading to the town hall, Palazzo Senatorio. Then, continue on Via Garibaldi and visit the imposing cathedral of San Lorenzo. Reach Piazza del Mercato del Pesce, a good viewpoint over the city that juts into the sea.
Evening
As the sun sets, grab the best gelato in town at Gelateria Gino and walk along the promenade that leads to the Tower of Ligny, a 17th-century tower built to protect the coastline. You can also climb up it to enjoy a better view of the sea.
If by evening you find that you’ve already had your fill of Trapani, instead head to the coastal salt pans at the nature reserve Lo Stagnone (25 25-minute drive).
Here, you can sip a drink by the water at Mamma Caura while watching the sun dip into the lagoon. You can also dine at the restaurant. If you do, order busiate alla trapanese, a long-spiraled pasta seasoned with pesto alla trapanese (pine nuts and almonds mixed with crushed tomatoes).
Overnight in Trapani
For hotel options, see the info provided in day 3.
Day 5: Marsala, Selinunte, and Sciacca
Your journey through western Sicily now moves to Marsala where you’ll explore the city, taste local wine, and see the ruins of a Phoenician ship.
\Next, you’ll continue on to ancient Greek ruins in Selinunte, before finishing the day in Sciacca, a coastal town known for its tradition of ceramic and coral manufacturing.
From there, you’ll reach the city of Agrigento, where you’ll be spending your next two nights, late in the evening.
Morning
Pack up your bags and hit the road for Marsala, about 35 minutes away. Marsala has a lovely city center and you should expect to spend about 2 hours visiting, including time at the archaeological museum.
Start your visit at the central Via XI Maggio street, which runs from Piazza Matteotti to Porta Nuova. From here, head to Via Garibaldi which is flanked on both sides by charming palaces, shops, bars, and restaurants.
There are few “must-see” sites in town, so the idea here is to just get lose in the narrow streets which are dotted by old monasteries, ornate balconies, and noble palaces. Do be sure, however, to stop in Piazza della Repubblica to admire the majestic Duomo.
Before you break for lunch, walk down to the seafront and visit the local archaeological museum, which houses an authentic Phoenician ship!
When it’s time for a little sustenance, I recommend a meal at Antica Trattoria da Pino, an old-style tavern offering a delicious pasta c’anciova (pasta with sardines). Don’t forget to ask for a glass of Marsala wine, a local specialty.
If you’re a wine lover, you can also visit one of Marsala’s historic cellars, such as Donnafugata or Florio, to learn about the local tradition of adding brandy to the local wine.
Afternoon
After lunch drive to Selinunte to visit the archaeological park. It’s a 55 minute drive. Once a wealthy Greek city in antiquity, the ruins of Selinunte including an acropolis, a necropolis, and Doric temples. The site is quite large, so you should budget 2-3 hours for a visit.
Once you’ve had your fill of ancient Greece, return to modern day and turn your attention to the town of Sciacca, a 40 minute ride from Selinunte.
Sciacca has been a spa town since the 5th century, and it’s full of Renaissance palaces and ancient churches. Local artisans also have a strong tradition of producing quality ceramics and coral jewelry.
While here, be sure to admire the magnificent church of Santa Maria del Soccorso, enjoy the view from Piazza Scandaliato, and shop for local coral jewelry and handmade pottery along the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The old center is very compact, so you probably won’t need more than 30-40 minutes for a wander.
Evening
At sunset, walk along the majolica-decorated Scalinata Artistica (artistic staircase) to reach the port and enjoy a dinner of fresh fish at Ristorante Porto San Paolo, housed in a 15th-century tower with a terrace overlooking the sea. The setting is tough to beat!
While it might be tempting to end the day in Sciacca, resist the temptation and instead get the car and make the 1-hour drive to Agrigento. While an after-dinner drive may not sound ideal, tomorrow you’re visiting Valley of the Temples, and to maximize your time it really is best to sleep in Agrigento tonight.
Overnight in Agrigento
Agrigento has a few good hotel options in the city center and quite a few hotels in the countryside outside of town. The first two hotels below are in town while the second two are luxury properties that overlook the Valley of the Temples and provide a real once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Terrazze di Montelusa - $170 a night in summer.
Locanda degli Scrittori - Rooms from $120 per night.
Doric Eco Boutique - Rooms cost around $300 a night.
Villa Athena - Expect to spend from $600 and up.
Day 6: Agrigento and Valley of the Temples
Although Agrigento is best known for the UNESCO-listed Valley of the Temples (truly wonderful!), the city itself offers many surprises worth discovering.
Today, you’ll spend the morning at the Valley of the Temples (hopefully arriving before the tour buses do) and then enjoy an afternoon back in town checking out the city.
Morning
Get up as early as you can to enjoy the Valley of the Temples without crowds or sweltering heat. The valley is 3 km from Agrigento city and you can reach it by walking (with a view over the temples) or taking a local bus from Piazza Rosselli (departing every 30 minutes throughout the day). There is also a parking lot on site if you prefer to drive.
Visiting the ancient Akragas (as the city was called in ancient Greece), founded by the Greeks in 580 BC, is a fascinating dive into the distant past. A 2 km well-marked route runs through the valley, and you’ll pass by old necropolises, ancient sanctuaries, an Art Nouveau villa, and a “hypogeum”. You’re sure to be particularly amazed by the complexes start attractions: a huge temple of Zeus and the intact temple of Concordia.
Before going, know that there are two entrances: Porta Giunone is the eastern entrance and Porta V is the western one. It doesn’t matter which one you choose, but the path from Porta Giunone is downhill…
A visit lasts about 3-4 hours and you should expect to walk about 4-5 km (round trip), as at the end of your visit you’ll have to walk back to the car park. There is also a small electric shuttle, similar to a golf cart, that can take you back for € 3.
If you come by public transport, the bus stops at both entrances, so you can get off at one to start your visit and then exit at the other to catch the bus back to town, minimizing how much you’ll have to walk.
But before leaving the valley, have a look at the Kolymbetra garden, once a Greek pool, and now a lush garden full of citrus trees and exotic plants. You can see the garden in less than an hour, but for a very nice experience you can pack a picnic and have lunch among the trees.
If a picnic sounds like too much work (you’re on vacation after all!), head back to Agrigento and have lunch on Via Atenea, its central street. Cantina Granet is a very good choice to order a platter with a selection of charcuterie and local cheeses paired with a glass of wine (veg options available as well).
Afternoon
Spend the afternoon discovering modern Agrigento. Although many travelers skip the city altogether, just stopping at Valley of the Temples and then moving on, this is really a shame. Agrigento is full of artistic treasures such as old churches, noble palaces, and narrow stairways.
Do not miss the 11th-century cathedral of Saint Gerlando whose interiors boast a Roman sarcophagus and a painted wooden ceiling.
For a late afternoon snack, stop at the monastery of Santo Spirito to taste some delicacies prepared by the nuns. Their specialty is sweet couscous: such a treat!
Evening
At sunset, head to San Leone beach - 6 km from the city center - and join the locals for an aperitif by the sea. Oceanomare is the best spot to sip a good drink.
If somehow you’re still hungry, you could go wild and order an aperitivo rinforzato, usually a drink accompanied by a bunch of appetizers: cheeses, bread, cured meats, olives, and sometimes even pasta. For about € 10-15, you’ll get an affordable dinner option.
If you’re in the mood for a more formal dinner, sit at a restaurant with a view. Il Re di Girgenti offers tables overlooking the temples, all lit up at night – thank me later! To avoid disappointment, be sure to reserve in advance and ask for a table outdoors!
Overnight in Agrigento
For hotels, see my suggestions in day 5.
Day 7: Palermo markets and museums
On your final day of this ring route, you’re heading back to Palermo where you can deepen your knowledge of the city: participate in typical daily life by walking through a local market, visit some splendid noble palaces, and be surprised by a couple of truly special museums.
Morning
The journey between Agrigento and Palermo takes about 2 hours, so an early start is ideal to make the most of your day. I’d also recommend dropping off your car on the way into the city so that you don’t have to deal with the hassle of parking (or driving in Palermo!).
Since you’ll have already seen many of Palermo’s “highlights”, start your day by perusing the atmospheric Il Capo market, which has been operating since Arab-Norman rule and is still the most authentic market in Palermo. Stop at the food stalls to taste fresh produce, cheese, and fruit that vendors offer to passers-by to persuade them to buy. Give yourself an hour to take it all in.
Afterwards, check out some aristocratic palaces such as Palazzo Mirto with its opulent interiors, the 14th-century Palazzo Chiaramonte Steri (which became the seat of the Inquisition during the 17th century), and the Baroque Palazzo Butera with a long facade built atop a stretch of former walls now called Passeggiata delle Cattive.
The palaces are all a few steps from each other, so visiting them all together is a breeze. If you visit all 3, figure it’ll take you around 3 hours, by which point it’ll be time for lunch!
For a good and quick meal, Ssop at Nni Francu u Vastiddaru (15 minutes from the palaces), where you can choose from ready dishes, sandwiches, and street food. Be sure to try one of their very good arancina (fried and stuffed rice ball).
Afternoon
In the afternoon, especially if the sun is beating down, give a chance to two very unique museums. These are not remotely similar to the usual museums and they are something that you can only find in Palermo.
My recommendation is to visit the marvelous Camera delle Meraviglie (chamber of wonders), a cobalt blue room covered in silver Arab inscriptions that was discovered in a private apartment during renovation works. The visit takes no more than 20 minutes.
Next, marvel at the Stanze al Genio, about 15 minutes away. It is a bizarre private museum displaying a vast collection of 2,500 majolica pieces dating from the late 16th to early 20th century. Expect to spend about an hour here.
As an alternative, you could also visit Monreale and its stunning Cathedral this afternoon. A public bus runs between Palermo and Monreale with departures every 40 minutes until fairly late in the evening. So if it’s on your list, you could certainly make time to see Monreale today.
Evening
Tonight, bid Sicily farewell with a memorable dinner. Book a table at the restaurant Ciccio in Pentola, located in the heart of the Kalsa neighborhood. It is beloved by local foodies and worth a stop to taste creative fish dishes and Sicilian delicacies.
As the saying goes, all good things must come to an end. And so to with your exploration of Sicily; but perhaps we’ll see you next your for a visit to island’s East! Arrivederci ed alla prossima!
Overnight in Palermo
For recommendations on where to stay, see my hotel suggestions from day 1.
- Chat with a local expert
- 1 hour planning session
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