A Local’s Guide to Ostuni, Puglia
Driving along the coast between Bari and Lecce, it is impossible not to notice the bright white hilltop town that appears about halfway through the journey. As a kid, this is how I always saw Ostuni - from the back seat of my parents’ car as we travelled north from Lecce to visit relatives in Bari.
An hour south of Bari (and an hour north of Lecce), Ostuni sits almost on the top of a ridgeline that forms the "Murgia plateau", and continuing west along that plateau brings you into the delightful Valle d’Itria area and eventually the neighboring to the Ionian sea and border with the neighboring region of Basilicata. To the town's east (going downhill) is a narrow plain filled with ancient olive groves lying directly in front of the Adriatic sea.
The town itself is a lovely little place with a pretty medieval center, great viewpoints, and an excellent location from which to explore the surrounding region.
Table of Contents
Affiliate disclosure: some of the links in this article are affiliate links. If you book using one of them, we’ll earn a small commission. All of our info is free to read and free of ads, so we appreciate it!
Puglia planning cheatsheet
Plan your itinerary with expert advice
- Book a Puglia travel consultation with a local expert
My favorite hotels in Puglia
- Palazzo de Noha - gorgeous boutique property in Lecce. $300/night
- Locanda Don Ferrante - Monopoli's best hotel. $300+/night
- Borgo Canonica - Trulli hotel in Valle d'Itria countryside. $200/night
- Masseria il Frantoio - rustic-chic farmhouse in Ostuni. $200/night
- B&B Murex - excellent value in Bari's old town. $100/night
Guided tours and activities
- Private guided tours with Paolo (me!)
- Valle d'Itria day trip: Alberobello & Ostuni
- Polignano a Mare boat ride
- Walking tour of Bari
How to get around
- Car rentals with DiscoverCars
- Train tickets from Trenitalia
- Bus routes and schedules at Moovit and BusBud
Let’s plan your itinerary!
If you could use some help coming up with a great plan for your visit to Puglia, schedule a Puglia travel consultation with me!
These are one-hour Zoom calls where we can chat about the trip you’re planning and I’ll share my tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.
Why visit
Ostuni seen from afar
Pretty backstreets
More pretty backstreets
Ostuni is one of the most visited towns in Puglia and an absolute favorite among international tourists. Its old town is a maze of narrow alleys and cobblestone streets, all lined with elegant white stone buildings.
Now, while it's quite nice, I really don't know why Ostuni became so famous. The surrounding area - and much of Puglia in general - is full of medieval towns with similar architecture and more or less the exact same appeal.
It really might just be a case of exceptionally good marketing; Ostuni's nickname is “La Città Bianca”, a rather romantic name that's easy to sell, and the town and region have done a very good job of advertising it.
It's also in a good location - only 10 minutes from the inland towns of the Valle d’Itria (Alberobello among them) and the sandy shores of the Adriatic. Popular places like Monopoli and Polignano a Mare very nearby as well and there is a large concentration of 4 and 5-star hotels along the coast next to it. It's a very convenient place to base yourself for exploring the surrounding region.
Another thing that has certainly contributed to its beauty (and enduring appeal) is that every year between April and May, every person that owns a building in the historic center must whitewash the facade to preserve the town's aesthetic and keep bugs and moss away. That said, in reality it isn’t true that all the buildings are white! There are noble palazzi, churches, a convent and a monastery that for some reason have been always left without any coat of painting. But these are the exceptions.
All these factors have certainly played a part in making it such a popular place.
Now, to fully answer the question, the main reason to visit is simply because it's very pretty and in a fantastic setting. And because the towns in this part of Puglia are all close together, it's easy to include as a stop on a day trip or drive around.
I also like it because it's bigger than many of the other Valle d’Itria towns, which are really little villages. While quaint and pretty, they can feel overwhelmingly touristy during the summer whereas Ostuni is large enough that you have areas (the new town) where locals actually live and you can get away from the crowds.
A brief history
Ostuni was first "born” around a small fortification built by the Normans during the 11th century. Eventually, it expanded to cover the entire hill on which it sits.
Its prominent location led to it having great importance - from the town's walls you can control a vast section of coast and protect the hilly inland. Its founding also coincided with the time of the Crusades, so crusaders, pilgrims, and merchants all passed through here on their way to and from the Middle East. The distinctly medieval atmosphere of the town reflects this history.
After the unification of Italy in the second half of the 19th century, Ostuni lost much of its importance and people gradually abandoned the old town in favor of the more modern housing of the new town. This is why the old town preserves its character so well - for the past 150 years, barely anyone lived there and almost nothing was changed!
In the last 20 years tourism has grown so much that locals have opened many cafes, restaurants, and shops in the center and many Italians have holiday homes here. But the fact that it is not directly in front of the water has largely allowed the city to avoid the sort of mass tourism and resulting beachside construction that has, unfortunately, blighted a good deal of our coastline.
How long to spend
If you're just passing through Ostuni on a day trip around the area (or a drive between Bari and Lecce) then an hour or two is plenty of time for a stop here. The old town is small and compact and a comprehensive stroll really won't take you long at all.
It's a pleasant town though and the main square, Piazza della Libertà is a nice place to have a coffee and do some people watching, as is the staircase that leads up to it (lined with cafes). Also, one of Puglia's best gelaterias is here: Cremeria Alla Scala.
Now, if you want to use Ostuni as your base for exploring central Puglia, you could consider spending 2 to 4 nights here. This would give you enough time to see a collection of different towns in the Valle d’Itria, visit Polignano a Mare and Monopoli, and do some swimming and lounging at the beach. Even Matera, Bari, and Lecce are visitable as day trips.
What to see & do
1. Visit the Cathedral
Ostuni's cathedral is a beautiful example of late Romanesque architecture mixed with Gothic influences. It has a beautiful rose window and rather unique gargoyles on its facade. The inside is nothing amazing, but the wooden altar is interesting and there are some frescoes and sculptures from the original church (it has been rebuilt over time).
To get there, walk from Piazza della Libertà straight up Via Cattedrale - you can't miss it. Along the way, be sure to dip down some of the alleyways that branch off the street. Many people don't seem to walk off the main street, so this part of the old town is quiet and very pretty.
The cathedral
Arco Scopa arch behind the cathedral
2. Stop by the town's museum
Right in town you have an interesting little museum, the Museum of Preclassic Civilizations of the Southern Murgia. The main attraction is “Delia”, an “old” lady that lived in the region 28,000 years ago and whose intact skeleton was found with a fetus. The museum is housed inside an old monastery which is also cool to explore in its own right.
3. Get an ice cream and people watch in Piazza della Libertà
Piazza della Libertà is Ostuni's main square and it’s lined on one side with cafes. They're uniformly a bit overpriced, but very nice still to sit at and do some people watching. Just don't order any food other than a croissant or pastry.
For an ice cream, there are few better places in Puglia than Cremeria alla Scala which is on the stairs just at the edge of the square.
Piazza della Libertà
A gelato from Cremeria alla Scala!
4. Taste olive oil and learn about its production at a farm
Ostuni is the land of the olive oil… and many old farm houses in the nearby countryside preserve ancient underground olive presses, known as frantoi ipogei. These underground presses are very neat to see, but you also have lots of more modern farms with both large scale and boutique production that are open for visits and tastings.
Masseria Brancati has an incredible collection of old tools and two old olive oil presses, one of which is underground. They still produce olive oil that you can taste and buy.
Oleificio Cooperativo di Ostuni is a cooperative of local producers that's within walking distance of the old town. This is a modern production facility, but it's interesting to see and you can try their products too.
Olive groves
5. Browse the art and wares at "L’Ulivo che Canta”
L’ulivo che canta is the workshop and store of a local artist who creates goods made out of olive wood. The artist is also a musician and quite a character to chat with.
6. Enjoy a great view
There are lots of viewpoints in Ostuni, but my personal favorite is from Viale Oronzo Quaranta, a wide street that runs atop a section of the city's walls.
The view from Ostuni on a cloudy day
7. Hit the beaches
Immediately easy of Ostuni are a series of both sandy and rocky beaches. Much of this stretch of coast (from Brindisi north to Bari) has been privatized by lidos and beach clubs, but there are still some free access points too. In general, the rocky beaches will be less crowded and undeveloped.
For beach clubs, the entire coast between Torre Canne and Savelletri is full of them. Between Savelletri and Monopoli you have some very nice "cliffs” from which you can swim, and then south Marina di Ostuni you have a mix of the two that tend to be much less crowded.
I very much like Parco Dune Costiere which is a protected reserve (no development) and Torre Guaceto.
A sandy beach at a beach club in Savelletri
8. Take a day trip
As I already mentioned, Ostuni is a very convenient place from which to take day trips to the Valle d’Itria and central Puglia in general. Inland Puglia is also the perfect place for a scenic drive (or bike ride) as the roads are small, there's little traffic, and you'll pass through exceedingly bucolic countryside, all dotted with the famous trulli houses.
I'm not going to go into detail on all the places you could visit, but here are a few close ones:
Alberobello
Locorotondo
Cisternino
Martina Franca
Putignano
Carovigno
Ceglie Messapica
Monopoli
Polignano a Mare
Piazza Plebiscito in Martina Franca
Where to stay
If you won't have a car, then staying in Ostuni town itself makes sense. Because it's so small, there's no real difference with staying in the old town versus the new town - everything is close no matter where you are.
For those with a car, and especially anyone who wants to avoid crowds, it may be more pleasant to stay in the countryside outside of town. The coast between Ostuni and Savelletri is full of Masserie-style accommodation which can be very nice. Some are quite expensive, but plenty are reasonably priced.
In town
Palazzo Stunis is a beautiful boutique B&B about a 10 minute walk from Ostuni’s historic center. You' have painted ceilings, period furniture, and delightful touches. Each room is unique and the host is exceedingly helpful. $250 USD per night.
Masseria Il Frantoio is a very nice 4-star hotel in the countryside near to Ostuni that offers gastronomic activities like wine tasting, olive oil tasting, and cooking classes. $200-250 USD per night.
Hotel Primo Ostuni is a recently renovated hotel a few blocks outside the center of Ostuni. The rooms are modern, spacious, and airy. Some have balconies. $175 USD per night.
Outside of town
Masseria Torre Coccaro on the Savelletri coast is a good option for anyone looking for a luxury stay, but at a semi-reasonable price (when compared with other luxury hotels in the area). It has manicured grounds, a beautiful pool, a bar, and an on-site restaurant. It is not directly on the beach, but they run a complimentary shuttle to their own private beach club. $350 USD per night.
Masseria Salamina is another farmhouse-style hotel, but with its own castle to boot! Located in the countryside near to Ostuni and outside of a nondescript little town named Pezze di Greco, it has nice old world style and a good farm to table restaurant. $250 USD per night.
Masseria Il Frantoio - nice 4-star hotel in the countryside just below Ostuni that offers gastronomic activities like wine tasting, olive oil tasting, and cooking classes. $200-250 USD per night.
Dimora Donna Lucrezia, also on the outskirts of Pezze di Greco, is great value. The lovely rooms are complimented by an excellent pool and you’re just a short drive to Ostuni, Monopoli, all the Valle d’Itria towns, and lots of good beaches. $140 USD per night.
More Puglia travel info
For more advice on planning your trip to Puglia, have a look at some of my other guides and itineraries!
- Chat with a local expert
- 1 hour planning session
- Get pro tips & hidden gems
- Personalized to you
Paolo Maragliulo
Puglia Expert based in Lecce
Ciao ragazzi! 👋
Hi, I'm Paolo, and I've been a tour guide and travel consultant here in Puglia for the last 20 years. If you're looking for some local advice on your trip, I'd love to help!
Learn more Book a consultation
Connect with Paolo
