A Local’s Guide to Visiting Saint-Tropez, France
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All famous places are torn between the perception of them and their actual reality, and while what the world knows and thinks about them is often true, it’s obviously also incomplete. And of all the Riviera towns, this is perhaps most true of Saint-Tropez, which is totally misunderstood in many ways.
For many, Saint-Tropez is synonymous with luxury, yachts, and parties. And depending on when you come here and what you’re looking for, you can certainly find all of those things. But that’s not everything to the town, and the “invasion” of wealth and luxury is actually quite recent and and not at all in line with the town’s history.
A small fishing village for 2,000 years, Saint-Tropez has long been a haunt for artists thanks to its reputation for beauty and a high quality of life. While some other in-the-know vacationers have been coming here for centuries, the town was not especially popular or famous.
However, since the 1950’s (yes, that's recent in historical terms), which is when some famous films began to be shot here, Saint-Tropez has rapidly become a global tourism hotspot, and this is when its modern image as a place of glamorous luxury began to take hold. And in the following decades, everyone took an interest in this town, partly for its reputation and partly in the hope of bumping into movie stars.
Now, you may be wondering why exactly I’m telling you this. Well, it’s because I want you to understand that there are two very distinct sides to Saint-Tropez that have managed to coexist quite well, without either one ruining the other.
Still today, you’ll find people who come here for its beauty, its seaside charm, and the opportunity that it presents to recharge one’s batteries in a serene setting.
And yet, at the same time, especially during the summer, this is also a favorite destination of the jet-set crowd who arrives in their yachts and expensive cars, dialing up the energy level by about 10 times and starting the party.
So, whether you’re looking for peace and tranquility or a taste of the high life, Saint-Tropez is always happy to show you either of its two faces, and it’s up to you and the season to discover one or the other… or a little bit of both!
Table of Contents
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Where is Saint-Tropez?
Saint-Tropez is a bit off the main east-west routes of the Riviera, as it lies west of most of the busiest towns and is tucked away on a large peninsula, somewhat isolated by a series of hills and sheltered on the edge of the gulf that bears the same name.
The town of Toulon is about 40 miles to the west, while Cannes is around 50 miles east, meaning that although not far away from other popular destinations, it’s also not just down the road. Being a bit removed from the other hotspots of the Riviera is certainly one of the reasons the town has remained fairly small, without extensive development or expansion.
Within the town’s immediate surroundings are mostly some little villages and wild, mostly untouched terrain (along with a whole lot of villas dotted all over, admittedly).
How to get here
Saint-Tropez, nestled on the peninsula. Photo: Starus, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Saint-Tropez is easily accessible, but not by the usual means in the Riviera (trains and highways). The challenge of getting here lies in its tucked away geographical location and the fact that its fame came much later than many of the region’s other towns.
While the most popular towns of the Riviera are all connected by the coastal train line, Saint-Tropez is off the route and has no station. Similarly, the highways do not pass through here, meaning you’ll be limited to the slower (and prettier) local roads.
This relative isolation goes a long way toward explaining why Saint-Tropez is still such a lovely place - it’s hard to overdevelop somewhere or introduce too many tourists when you can’t easily get them there. I think the “difficulty” of getting here is actually one of its greatest features.
Arriving by air
The nearest airport to Saint-Tropez is in the town of Toulon, around 35 miles to the west. This in not a major international airport by any means, but if you’ll be arriving here from Paris, it has a few daily direct connections and you’ll typically pay around $100 USD each way.
Of course, the two largest airports in the area are Nice and Marseille, and those offer connections with a host of destinations throughout the world. The downside to flying into either of them is that you then need to travel a relatively significant distance to reach Saint-Tropez, whereas Toulon is quite close.
Arriving by train
As I said above, unfortunately, there's no train station in Saint-Tropez. I know this is unusual for a world-famous town in France, but it is what it is. And again, I quite like this feature because it’s one of the main reasons the town has retained its human scale.
The closest you can to to Saint-Tropez by train is Toulon or Fréjus, from where you’ll have to catch a bus, pick up a car, or hire a taxi to take you the rest of the way.
Arriving by car or bus
As you can see, apart from the sailing here, the only other way to reach Saint-Tropez directly is by road. From this point of view, the town is very well served, with numerous bus lines taking you straight here. Two lines link the town to Toulon (878 and 879), one to Toulon’s airport (873), and two to Fréjus and Saint-Raphaël (874 and 876). Tickets are quite inexpensive, starting at about 2 euros.
Whether you come by bus or car, your journey will be an absolute joy, because the landscapes that you pass by are genuinely beautiful. Whether you arrive by the coast from Toulon or Fréjus, or take the inland route, the scenery is spectacular.
When to visit
Like all of the coastal towns in our region, Saint-Tropez is pleasant to visit in any season. But as I’d imagine you've already guessed, this ultra-famous but relatively isolated little town changes radically from one season to the next.
Here’s a quick seasonal overview:
Visiting in Spring
Spring is a very good time to visit Saint-Tropez, as it gives you a chance to enjoy both the warm weather and the intimate calm. The town slowly emerges from its winter slumber, seasonal restaurants reopen, and yachtsmen begin to arrive.
Spring is particularly favorable for sports enthusiasts and hikers as the heat is not yet overpowering, nature is in full bloom, and both the coast and the trails of the hinterland are still largely empty.
Visiting in summer
If you come in the summer it will be quite hot and sunny, but somewhat counterintuitively, your visit during this time should be more focused on the atmosphere than the sea and the coast. That’s not to say that you can’t hit the beach here during the summer, because of course you can, but you can go swimming anywhere in the Riviera in summer, and what makes Saint-Tropez special at this time of year is its atmosphere, not the beaches.
The ambience here in summer is truly unique, with bars, restaurants, concerts, and parties everywhere and all around you.
But as I said above, never forget that Saint-Tropez has two faces: even during the tourist season, tradition is not forgotten. Summertime parties happen alongside the processions of the fishermen's festival (end of June) and the craft fair (end of July), so there is still plenty of culture during this time.
Visiting in fall
Autumn offers a number of advantages: you’ll have the city more to yourself, with far fewer visitors around, but it's still very warm, and you can even continue swimming in the sea and lounging on the beach until around the start of November usually.
Does the relative quiet mean you’ll miss out on the summer atmosphere? Yes and no. While it’s true that most festivals, beach concerts, and “party” events are over by this, and yes, some restaurants do close, but “Tropezian chic” is in full swing in the fall.
Autumn is the time of many jet-setting events, such as the prestigious Voiles de Saint-Tropez (a week of regattas with ultra-modern as well as historic vessels), which happens at the end of September, or the Paradis Porsche in October.
You may not get the same level of partying, but you’ll still have plenty of excitement (and displays of opulent wealth).
Visiting in winter
Does Saint-Tropez go into hibernation in winter? Not quite! Rather, the town calms down and breathes deeply during this period, but it does not shut down. And I'd like to recommend that you discover it at this time of year, because it’s the best chance to see authentic Riviera life.
Much like Menton or Antibes, but much more clearly, during the winter Saint-Tropez suddenly becomes a small Provencal town again, with its quiet rhythm. It's almost as if cinema, the posh elite, and celebrities had never passed through. Saint-Tropez in winter is the Saint-Tropez that the artists and original vacationers here sought out for its peace, tranquility, and beauty.
The temperature is cooler (without being cold) and you probably won't be swimming, but you'll have the town to yourself, meeting locals more easily, and exploring its historic sites and museums in peace.
How long to spend
While you can explore the town itself in just a couple of hours, I would recommend spending a full day here and staying overnight at least one night in as this will give you a chance to do some sightseeing and then enjoy the festivities during the tourist season, or to fully experience the town’s Provencal identity during the quieter times of year.
And if you want to spend a bit longer here and explore the villages, coastline, and hinterland around town, I think that’s a great idea. In that case, just be sure to have a car.
Day 1
Whatever season you visit in, you should start by familiarizing yourself with the city. If you're coming by bus, it's a good idea to start at the Vieux Port (where the bus station is located).
Can you see the citadel dominating the city to the east? It's time to head in that direction. But stop halfway, at Place des Lices. This tree-shaded area is one of the most popular meeting places for Tropezians, who come here every day to shop and play pétanque. It's also a good place for lunch: it's certainly touristy, but less so than the port. That's why it's more popular with locals.
Climbing the hill leading to the citadel makes an excellent post-meal walk and the view is well worth the effort.
Afterwards, if it’s summer, you can take a swim on one of the many beaches - you've earned it after all that climbing. To reach the shore, take one of the little paths leading down from the citadel to the east. They'll bring you to the nearest beaches. And if it's a colder time of year or the weather's not cooperating, I would still suggest that you do the same. It’s a really nice walk and the sea is lovely even if you can’t swim in it.
As evening approaches, head down to the harbor. If it’s the summer, you’re sure to find a beach concert or festival of some kind - it’s impossible to say in advance what's going to happen, as there are so many events to choose from.
Alternatively, if you’re in the mood for some peace and quiet, all you have to do is head away from the sounds of music and partying and you’ll quickly reach the calmer areas. The parties here are always pretty localized, so they never take over the whole city.
Day 2
If your second day falls on a Tuesday or Saturday, take the opportunity to visit the market on Place des Lices, where you can buy local produce as well as handicrafts. You'll also enjoy sitting on a terrace for breakfast or a simple cup of coffee.
Afterwards, I suggest you devote the rest of your second day here to discovering the natural charms of Saint-Tropez and its unspoiled surroundings. Take advantage of the fact that the morning temperatures aren’t so intense and set off on the coastal path (accessible from the east of the town: I'll tell you more about it later), or take a boat trip along the peninsula (there are plenty of boat trips available at the port).
You can also - especially if the weather doesn't lend itself to swimming - opt for a little more altitude by heading to one of the region's most beautiful villages, Ramatuelle, which dominates the peninsula from its low 300-yard altitude. This small medieval town is well worth a visit and it's also a great place for lunch.
Where to stay
Views from the Althoff Villa Belrose. Photo: Logret de Carlin, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The following information should come as no surprise: there are many hotels in Saint-Tropez and many of them are very expensive.
Some of the most famous hotels - the Paris Saint-Tropez, the Villa Cosy, the Althoff Villa Belrose, the Tartane, the Golf Club, among others - offer suites that cost several thousand euros a night.
However, if like most of us, you’re not insanely rich, there are also a good selection of more modest hotels and inns that typically cost around 100 to 200 euros per night. These more reasonably priced establishments won’t have the magnificent views of their more expensive neighbors, but they’re still often quite nice.
Being a coastal town, you will of course find most hotels along the coast. However, it's worth noting that a surprising number of top-quality establishments are also located a little further back, on the hills overlooking the city. There, you'll find more tranquillity, which can be very welcome when you’re looking for a good night's sleep in summer.
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What to see and do
In Saint-Tropez, there are two types of discoveries: those that can be made all year-round, and those that are only possible (or preferable) during a certain period.
Here are my favorites among them:
1. Explore the port and historic city
This is a must-do no matter when you visit. The port is both the city's historic heart (a fishing town, a haven for privateers: Saint-Tropez has always been a maritime city) and the place that best incarnates its present (with its yachts and luxury sailboats).
Stroll along the quays, admire both the boats and the colorful facades of the old town, lounge on the terraces. It's not even a tourist program: the locals do it themselves, often and willingly.
Your wanderings will naturally lead you eastwards, towards the dyke protecting the harbour from the sea and the little tower that once protected it from man's assaults. This is the most historic part of the town. Above you is the hill with its citadel and, between them, the bell tower of Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption church.
Stroll around as you please, but keep the steeple as your reference point and objective: once you've arrived at the church, give it a visit (it's open every morning). You may be surprised to find it just as colorful inside as out: color is one of Saint-Tropez's enduring characteristics.
The Vieux Port. Photo: Adrian777, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Visit the citadel and its museum
After strolling through the port and the old town, the fortified hill naturally beckons. The aptly named "Montée ("Climb") de la Citadelle" will take you there, and you'll be rewarded with a superb view.
A visit to the citadel and its museum is a more than a must: it's here that local historians have concentrated their efforts to remind visitors and locals alike of what this city was, once the third most important port in the kingdom of France, a place from which people set out to fish as well as to conquer the world.
It's a journey back in time and, in my opinion, one of the best ways to get to grips with the historic soul of the Riviera. A trip that will cost you... 4 euros per person.
Cannons on the citadel’s walls. Photo: Bernard Gagnon, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Go for a walk along the coastal path
The Riviera is criss-crossed by hundreds of footpaths and hiking trails. In Saint-Tropez too there are several, but the most important is the coastal path. Also known as the "sentier des douaniers" ("customs path"): a name given to many coastal paths in France and elsewhere, as sailors from all over the world have been in the habit of trying to avoid the surveillance of public authorities.
This walk, starting from and returning to the port, takes in some of the finest local panoramas and most intimate bathing spots.
But be warned: although it’s a leisurely walk, it's over 7 Miles long, so bring water, some snacks, a hat, and, of course, your swimsuits. Set aside about 4 hours for this.
Departure is from Plage des Canoubiers (the sailing school beach), so you’d ideally, bring your vehicle and park on site. At the end of the beach, yellow markers indicate the start of the trail and all you have to do is follow them. The walk will eventually take you back to your starting point, passing inland on the return trip.
4. Discover the beaches
It's time to take a look at the beaches! There are many to choose, from the smallest and most intimate to the largest and most festive. Four of them are very well known. Let's take the port as our reference point.
To the west is the Bouillabaisse beach: while it may be convenient, it's not the most interesting for discovering Saint-Tropez, as the most beautiful sites are to the east along the peninsula.
On the east side, you head for the Plage des Canoubiers: this is the yacht club's beach, and it's famous, but... it's more than a mile away. If you don't want to go too far away, I'd recommend La Ponche beach (at the foot of the citadel, near the last houses of the town) or Graniers beach (still at the foot of the citadel, but this time exactly on the other side of it: allow a good 15 minutes to reach it).
Note that these two beaches are separated by the cemetery, which is located on one of the best spots on the coast. Saint-Tropez could ideally have set up sites dedicated to business, it preferred to preserve the resting place of the generations of sailors who have succeeded one another. I can't think of a better illustration of its preserved identity.
And let's not forget a beach that's much further away (3 miles from Saint-Tropez), but one that's well worth getting to know: Pampelonne. This 2.8-mile-long beach is the beating heart of summer nights. It is divided into around thirty private beaches, to which we must add vacation villages and campsites.
Concerts take place here all summer long, and a shuttle bus takes you there from Saint-Tropez. If you're looking to party all the night, this is the place to come.
5. Enjoy the Tropezian evenings
Its festivals, too, are part of Saint-Tropez's identity: so consider taking part in them a... cultural duty.
Their most intense moment is obviously during the summer. It's impossible to list them all here: there are so many, and the program changes every year.
However, there are a few recurring elements. Concerts are held in the citadel (notably electro concerts with Délices Sonores, at the beginning of August), while the most frenetic evenings take place far from the city, where the music can go on all night without disturbing anyone: on the Pampelonne beach.
These are just a few examples of what Saint-Tropez is like in summer: even outside the major events, the shows and concerts are almost permanent. Every evening on the harbour is a party, and you'll probably not know where to start.
6. Experience the life of a castellan at Château de la Moutte
There are, of course, many villas around Saint-Tropez, but above all there's one castle that embodies more than any other the lifestyle of the former elites: the Château de la Moutte, which in the 19th century belonged to Emile Ollivier, the last head of Emperor Napoleon III's government. It's a popular place to take a stroll, and with good reason.
Closed in winter, but open from February to November, it offers the chance to lose yourself freely in its nearly 10-acre park. As a cultural hotspot, it closes again from late July to late August to host a variety of events, including classical music concerts and theatrical performances.
Located to the east of the Canoubiers beach and 2.5 miles from Tropez, you'll need to get there by car or by bus. In my opinion, this is a must-see stop on your exploration of the peninsula.
Chateau de la Moutte. Photo: Petr Gabriel Photo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Visit the Musée de la Gendarmerie (the cinema museum)
Its reputation as a festive destination should not blind us to the fact that Saint-Tropez owes its success first and foremost to art.
No film lover should miss the Musée de la Gendarmerie et du Cinéma. Why the Gendarmerie? Because Saint-Tropez is definitely associated, in the hearts of the French, with a series of old comedies (1964 to 1982!) that even today's children still know: Le Gendarme de Saint-Tropez, starring Louis de Funès, one of our most beloved actors.
The museum also pays homage to cinema in general, and in addition to showing the link between the town and cinema, offers a fine retrospective of this art form, as well as some very fine collections and displays.
8. Take part in the Bravades celebrations
This is a very specific event, taking place only on May 16, 17 and 18 each year. Yet it would be as criminal not to mention it as it would be unforgivable to miss it if you're lucky enough to be there at the time.
The Bravades ("bravados") are held to celebrate the town's patron saint (Saint Tropez, of course, whose feast day is May 17). They are also an opportunity for Tropezians to remember their turbulent history, and the efforts and sacrifices made by their ancestors to ensure the freedom of their town.
So, in addition to religious processions dedicated to the saint, the Tropezians organize a whole ceremonial with volunteers dressed in antique military uniforms. Gunfire, balls, masses and, of course, the laying of flowers at the cemetery punctuate these three intense days, during which Saint-Tropez, more than ever, reclaims its past.
Photo: Blaue Max, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
9. Taste the tarte tropézienne
Yes, this is an activity in its own right, and another fine illustration of Saint-Tropez's cultural specificity.
There's nothing traditional about the Tropezian tart as it was only invented in 1952. But it was a huge success all over France, because it was loved by the stars, particularly the most famous of them all at the time: Brigitte Bardot. As a result, the tart followed in the footsteps of its hometown, becoming a cultural staple in just a few months.
Today, it's one of the most emblematic desserts to be found in any good French patisserie. But it's only on the Riviera that you'll find the "La Tarte tropézienne" stores founded by its creator, which have always used the recipe patented by him in 1972.
Of course, this experience should be complemented by a broader discovery of local gastronomy: I'll tell you more about that below.
10. Set sail!
This city of sailors obviously offers a wide range of nautical activities. But why are they particularly interesting here? Because Saint-Tropez peninsula has several very different panoramas, and they are best enjoyed from the sea. By boat, you can discover the town and its gulf, but above all you can explore the peninsula.
In addition to renting small boats and jet-skis, you can opt for excursions along the coast. All it takes is a few dozen minutes' sailing to reach areas that are difficult to access by land, as they are still very wild. You'll be able to swim anywhere and enjoy the best sites in the better way.
What's more, in summer, parties are held both on and in front of the beaches: numerous festive sea outings are offered with cocktail bars and DJs. And on evenings when fireworks are set off (particularly for the National Day, on July 14th), the ideal place to admire them is from the sea.
Restaurants and dining
Tropezian food is to cuisine what Saint-Tropez is to geography: halfway between Italy and Marseille. Here, therefore, we serve both excellent Italian (and Niçoise) specialities, as well as dishes found in Marseille, like the famous bouillabaisse and a thousand different ways of preparing fish.
While you'll obviously be spoiled for choice in terms of establishments, what you need to be careful about is finding those that offer an authentic experience. Thankfully, these places are easy to find: you'll spot them by looking for useful clues, such as the fact that they're frequented by locals, that their menu is seasonal and not very long, and last but not least, often by their modest size.
While a drink on the harbor is always welcome, when it comes to food, I'd recommend heading inland, especially towards the citadel. On Rue de la Citadelle, you'll find La Bugade: a charming, simple and healthy little establishment typical of local life.
For a more elegant meal, La Ramade, just behind the Place des Lices, is a fine choice, thanks to its speciality grilled meats (fish is grilled a lot in the region) and its beautiful setting, ideal for meals for two.
Finally, for a meal on the go, why not stop off at La Tarte tropézienne, which I've already mentioned? While their specialty is pastries, they also offer savory brioches and quiches inspired by Mediterranean flavors. Expensive, but simple and good.
And if you're passing through the village of Ramatuelle, you'll be able to choose your restaurant at a glance, as they're almost all concentrated at the entrance to the village, on the narrow road coming from Saint-Tropez.
As always, beware of tourist traps though. I'm happy to recommend Saveurs Sincères (Mediterranean cuisine) and the pizzeria Le Vesuvio. While their menus may seem more expensive than some of their neighbors, the quality of service and products is much higher and there are no nasty surprises when it comes to the bill.
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