A Local’s Guide to Travel in Menton, France
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Menton is very proud of its nickname of the 'Pearl of France', and as a native of Antibes, I'd love to dispute that moniker, but I have to admit that Menton really does have some charming characteristics that set it apart from the rest of the towns along the Riviera.
One of the most Italian of French towns (naturally, a large part of the population here is bilingual and has family on both sides of the border), it enjoys a distinct and somewhat uniquely high quality of life that is recognized by visitors and locals alike.
In particular, Menton offers a delightful blend of the Provençal and Italian “arts of living”: while the two styles are certainly similar, they are not identical, and Menton incorporates aspects of both of them. The common foundation shared by both is a strong sense of community and family life, a close relationship with nature and the sea, the peaceful pace inherent in sunny regions, and a generous, abundant cuisine enriched with aromatic herbs and, of course, olive.
This is what makes Menton a little different from the rest of the Riviera: it's part of it, certainly, but owing to its blended Italian identity, it stands slightly apart from everywhere else.
And let me just note that when we talk about Menton, we're really talking about the whole bay, the centre of which stretches from the Italian border in the east to the town of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin in the west, via the Carnolès district that links the two towns.
The area forms a continuous urban whole, with the surrounding villages not far away geographically, but fairly isolated due to the steep terrain.
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Table of contents
Why visit?
Where is Menton?
How to get here
Best time to visit
How long to stay
Where to stay
What to see & do
Restaurants and dining
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Why visit
If you're doing a road trip in the Riviera and are traveling from one side to the other, you simply don't want to miss Menton.
Unless you head off into the mountains towards the big villages like Sospel, Breil-sur-Roya, or Tende, nowhere on the Riviera will you find a place that is as authentically Provençal as Menton and the neighbouring villages that adjoin it.
Let me explain: the Riviera is unique in that its very rugged terrain means that only a narrow strip of coastline is conducive to the development of towns. The mountains impose their presence very quickly, often rising almost straight up from the sea, which is why you won't find any very large towns here (even Nice is concentrated in a fairly small area).
This is even more true of Menton: tucked away at the foot of mountains, which here rise even more steeply than elsewhere, the town has had to retain a human scale, and this is reflected in its physical layout and its mentality.
Despite its relatively sizable population of 30,000 inhabitants, the atmosphere here is more like that of a big village than a city, where you get the impression that everyone each other.
Where is Menton?
Menton is the most southeastern town in France, lying at the far eastern end of the French Riviera, right next to Italy. A stroll along its seafront will take you to the border post between the two countries, which is now freely open to traffic (European Union), despite a permanent police presence and regular checks.
Menton is also the furthest town in mainland France from Paris, lying almost 600 miles away from the capital. However, that distance is a small price to pay for the sunshine, peace, and quality of life that Parisians so gladly seek on the Riviera in summer.
From Nice, the entry point to the Riviera for many international travelers, Menton is just 30 kilometers east.
How to get here
Once upon a time, Menton was a town only accessible by a few steep seaside paths. That’s no longer the case at all though, and it now boasts fast, convenient transport links with Paris and the many towns of the Riviera, as well as slower but stunning tourist routes.
Arriving by air
There are no airports serving Menton, so the nearest one is the large international Airport in Nice, about 25 miles away. Alternatively, you could also fly into Marseille (140 miles away), or even Genoa in Italy (110 miles).
Depending on your schedule and the price of tickets, any of the four might be a good option, but Nice is obviously the closest. Also, the train from Nice, which can be taken from directly in front of the airport, takes you directly to Menton in around 40 minutes.
Arriving by train
From Paris, there are as many as up to ten trains per day to Menton, with the journey taking between 6.5 and 7.5 hours. You’ll typically have to make a transfer in Nice, but the trains are lined up so that you’ll arrive into Nice and then almost immediately catch your connecting train on to Menton. Some trains have two transfers, one in Marseille and the other in Nice, so try to avoid this as it adds about an hour to the trip.
On the other hand, if you’ll already be in the Riviera before arriving to Menton, the train from Nice takes less than 40 minutes, it’s a little under 30 from Monaco, and less than 20 from Ventimiglia (the nearest Italian town).
In fact, it's worth noting that locals (including nearby Italians) are very keen to use the train, which is a quick and easy way to get between local towns without having to worry about traffic jams or parking.
There are regular trains all throughout the day traveling to Menton from the other towns of the Riviera, so even if you don’t plan especially well, you’ll likely never wait more than half an hour for the next train.
Arriving from Italy
Of course, Italy is on Menton's doorstep (and vice versa) and many people come in for a day trip or a few days from Italy.
If you're driving, don't even think about taking the motorway though: it would be an absolute waste, because the views are nowhere near as good as the breathtaking ones from the coastal route (even if the highway views from the bridges spanning some of the valleys are superb).
Instead, ppt for the seaside route, which offers exceptional coastal views and a direct arrival at the Garavan port, one of Menton's two ports.
If you're coming by train, it couldn't be easier: take the French train to Ventimiglia, then Menton is the first stop.
Transportation and getting around
Once you’ve arrived into Menton and the Riviera more generally, your transport options are quite varied. All the major cities and towns along the coast are connected by train, with regular service traveling between them all throughout the day. If you’re mostly planning to stick to the main towns, the train is extremely convenient and quite affordable.
There are also buses that will take you to some smaller towns both on and off the coast, but these don’t always run very frequently, so if you’re relying on them for a daily itinerary with multiple stops, you will lose a lot of time.
So, if you want to get up into the hinterland to visit little villages away from the coast (some of which are splendid), or if you want to hop around to the beaches outside of the cities, you will really need to have your own car.
Renting a car
For the most selection of cars and companies, you’ll want to rent your car in either Nice or Marseille, which have the widest selection of cars and companies. If you want to save some money, be sure to look at rentals in either cities’ centers rather than at just the airports (which is often more expensive).
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
When to visit
Menton is a lovely place that can be enjoyed at literally any time of year, so when you should plan your visit just depends on your schedule and your reasons for coming. So you’ll doubtless be glad to know that you can plan a lovely visit in every season.
Visiting in Spring
Many people choose to come to the Riviera before the tourist season gets too intense, and this is indeed a very good solution: in Menton in particular, it's an opportunity to enjoy a climate that is often milder than on the rest of the Riviera, and a town that moves at to the peaceful rhythm of its inhabitants' daily lives.
Although you might be surprised by a few (heavy) showers, this is also the time when nature is in full bloom. Freed from winter but not yet scorched by the summer sun, nourished by rivers swollen by melting snow from the mountains, plants are in bloom everywhere, even in town - because here we like to plant flowers just about everywhere!
Visiting in summer
The Riviera's best-known tourist attraction is, of course, its summer climate. The heat, often overwhelming, invites you to take a dip in the sea, while various beach clubs offer a wide range of water sports.
Although the number of visitors to Menton absolutely skyrockets during this time and the prices for everything soar up, it's still a great time to discover the town and wider region.
It's also the ideal time to get in touch with the unspoiled nature of the hinterland: from simple car or motorbike rides to hikes lasting one or more days, via horse-riding, canyoning, climbing or via ferrata (daring routes in the mountain gorges), the possibilities are endless.
Visiting in Fall
A visit in the fall is a quite similar story to that of spring: the weather is still mild, but the city is returning to its intimate rhythm. Until the end October, children and adults alike still head to the beach to swim and enjoy the sun after finishing their day at school or work.
From that point on, the first mountain thunderstorms cool the atmosphere and, even if the weather is still mild, it's time to give up the beach.
So it's an excellent time to visit, offering some of the benefits of summer beside a soothing calm.
Visiting in Winter
In our region, fractured into distinct zones by a chaotic geology, there is not just one climate, but several microclimates. Menton's climate is almost tropical, so much so that it seems to be warmer in winter than elsewhere on the Riviera. So you should at least know that you can enjoy the charms of the place without suffering from excessive cold.
Coming to Menton during this season is an opportunity to wander its streets and markets in a new-found tranquillity, as Christmas approaches. Here, religious culture is still strong, and Christmas takes centre stage.
Throughout December, you can enjoy the atmosphere, the decorations and the Christmas market (on the Esplanade des Sablettes, at the foot of the odl town near the two marinas).
Coming at the end of winter is also an opportunity to enjoy the town's biggest annual event at the end of February: the Lemon Festival. I'll tell you more about it below.
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How long to spend
It takes less than an hour to walk from one end of Menton to the other, so you can easily see the town in as little as a few hours. But I think the better question is “how long does it take to get to know it?”. And for that, I think the ideal amount of time is 2 days, which will give you time to discover the town itself as well as its surroundings.
And seeing the areas just around town is very important because it's the combination of the two that makes this piece of the Riviera so special.
Day 1
Your first day should of course be devoted to visiting the city.
If you're arriving here by train, you should walk out from the station and head straight down to the seafront. After just a few minutes of walking, you’ll find yourself right beside the water.
To your right (to the west), the town of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin occupies the cape overlooking the bay (just behind, invisible, is Monaco). To your left, looking east, make your way along the coast until you reach the old port and its lively district. It is located a few hundred yards ahead, at the foot of the old town, which is this hill covered with multicolored houses which dominates the place.
Once you've arrived at the old port, you'll find yourself in one of the city's liveliest spots: the Esplanade des Sablettes, a beachfront promenade linking the two marinas (the old port and the Garavan port: you can see it 1,000 yards further).
From here, it's time to start climbing the hill of the old town, all the way until you reach its historical basilica and cemetery, which are at the highest point and offer the best view.
After this initial discovery of Menton's key areas, it's time to head back down into town for a well-deserved lunch. The center is packed with restaurants, but, of course, I recommend that you stick to small local establishments or Italian cuisine, and be wary of the more touristy places.
Now, I can't recommend enough – especially if it's a hot day – that you wander around the exceptional themed gardens which I'll talk more about below. The four most beautiful are in a row to the east of the old town and will keep you busy well into the evening.
If you're an art lover, you can also seek some shade by visiting the excellent Bastion museum overlooking the port. It is dedicated to the work of one of France's most famous artists, Jean Cocteau, who lived here for many years.
Or you can decide that your afternoon will be devoted to swimming and water sports: in this case, the Esplanade des Sablettes is ideal. But if you like long beaches, you can return to the coastline along which you arrived from the station, which offers several miles of shingle/gravelly beach.
Day 2
Your second day will be an opportunity to set off to explore the wider region. And a quick tip: if you get up early enough, you can stock up on fresh provisions at the market before you leave. Plan to visit either the Halles market, located on the coast just before the old port, or the Careï market, located near the station (but only open on Tuesdays and Sundays).
Now, for touring outside of town there are various wonderful places to visit, but you will ideally need a car for these tours, even if the bus is a relatively effective alternative.
To the east lies Italy and its coastline, which is still very unspoiled and is a popular destination for locals. 7 miles away is Ventimiglia, which itself is a noisy and hectic city that I don’t like to spend any more time in than I have to, but which is reached via a gorgeous stretch of the coastal road (this is the real attraction).
To the north, you’ll find the first mountain villages. They are easily accessible by bus and are therefore present a great opportunity to discover local typical historical villages without having to make a long diversion across the Alps.
The nearest are in the heights above Menton: from east to west, they are Castellar, Sainte-Agnès, Gorbio and old Roquebrune, all four perched several hundred yards above sea level and overlooking the entire bay, but all accessible in just a few minutes.
To the west, at the foot of the ledge occupied by the old Roquebrune, you can round off your visit to the village with a walk along the coastal path around the Cap Martin (the stretch of land separating Menton from Monaco).
This little 3-mile-long promenade links Carnolès (the most westerly part of the Bay of Menton) to the Roquebrune railway station on the other side. You can even extend the walk as far as Monaco, or take the train back to Menton.
This is the wildest part of the local coastline, offering the chance to swim among the rocks and enjoy a peaceful picnic.
Where to stay
In Menton, you'll find hotels all along town’s coastline, set just slightly back form the water. From a practical point of view, you can find accommodation almost anywhere, and you’re unlikely to ever be too far away from the desirable parts of town to explore.
No matter which part of town you choose to stay, expect to pay between €100 and €250 a night during the busy season.
The old town
The most important area, however, is the old town and the two marinas at its base. This area, which is both the most picturesque and the liveliest (with a succession of restaurants, bars and shops), has the great advantage of allowing you to wake up each morning in the heart of local life.
Three charming hotels with excellent locations and not insane prices, are:
Around the railway station (the modern part of town)
Another area that is both practical and pleasant is the railway station. Unlike most towns, Menton's railway station area is not only well-frequented, but also very pleasant. Although it is much more modern than the historic district, it is no less lively and just a few minutes' walk from the coast.
This is a very convenient area for travelers who won’t have a car, as you’ll be right next to the train station and its transit options. Note that the buses that take you to the surrounding villages almost all pass through here as well.
The hotels here are charming, and I especially recommend the following ones, which are all very modestly priced:
What to see and do in Menton
Menton's relative isolation has enabled it to preserve a gentle way of life that is more easily found here than in other local towns. So a visit here will be largely devoted to reconnecting with the Riviera's cultural roots.
1. Get lost in the old town
The old town is this pile of multicoloured buildings overlooking the harbours and coastline, and it's also the heart of the town. The historic heart, of course, but also the heart of local life, because it's at the foot of this hill, on the harbours and the Esplanade des Sablettes, where the people of Menton most like to meet up.
The whole of the old town offers magnificent views. You can enter from either side, so take your time wandering through the narrow, leafy streets before heading for the bell tower that dominates it: the Basilica of Saint-Michel-Archange, whose richly decorated Baroque style will remind connoisseurs of the churches of Rome.
The highest point on the hill is the old cemetery, and you should absolutely head up there to enjoy the magnificent vistas. While for people from some countries it might feel odd to visit a cemetery for touristic purposes, in Italian-Provençal culture, people have a very strong relationship with their dead, and cemeteries are not at all “off limits”.
That's one of the reasons why they’re often located at the top of a hill and in beautiful surroundings. They’re meant to be pleasant places for anyone to visit.
Looking down on Menton from the cemetery. Photo: Tangopaso, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Discover the different faces of the Menton coastline
Using the old town as a point of reference, you can either head east towards Italy or west toward Roquebrune-Cap-Martin.
Toward the Italian side, you can stroll along the old port and then the Garavan port: these are separated by the two small beaches of Les Sablettes, very popular with the locals (you can go for a swim even though you're between two ports - we're talking about two small marinas here).
These beaches surround the Esplanade des Sablettes, the locals' favorite place for a stroll. A few hundred yards more will take you to the border, which, as I said, you can cross freely. There's no particular point in doing so, except to meet the Italian market vendors who set up stalls there every day.
On the Carnolès and Roquebrune-Cap-Martin side is the Promenade du Soleil (Sunshine Promenade), obviously aptly named, which takes you along a pebble beach several kilometres long.
So many places to swim and, of course, so many bars, ice-cream parlours and restaurants to tempt you when the thirst sets in.
A view of Menton with Port Garavan in the foreground. Photo: Berthold Werner, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Shop at the markets
There are no fewer than eight markets in the town, plus two seasonal markets: the Christmas market (December) and the night market (July and August). You'll often come across local producers, as the hinterland is dotted with farmers and breeders who make a living from selling their produce.
While they can be found everywhere, this is perhaps most obvious in Menton, where the market culture is still strong.
The best known is the market in the Halles Municipales, open every day until 1:00 PM: it is set back from the old port, at the end of the Promenade du Soleil (hint: the beach opposite is called the Market Beach...).
Don't miss the Careï market, near the railway station. Open on Tuesdays and Sundays until 1:00 PM, it offers everything from food to clothes and handicrafts.
And let's not forget the specialized markets: the craft market and the vintage market are both dedicated to what their name suggests, and have the good taste to be in the same place near the Esplanade des Sablettes.
The craft market is held on the 1st and 3rd Saturdays from 8 AM to 6 PM, and the vintage market on the 2nd weekend of each month from 9 AM to 6 PM.
Finally, and in the very same place, the night market offers a little bit of everything, but above all an original atmosphere that makes for a very pleasant aperitif or digestive stroll from 6 PM to midnight.
4. Enjoy some watersports
Menton has a large bay that is spared the traffic of large ships, due to the “lack” of a large port, so it has made a speciality of offering a wide range of watersports.
And don't think that this opportunity is limited to the summer season: the Centre Nautique organizes courses from February to November. The courses are suitable for both locals and vactioners with less time on their hands, and give you the chance to try your hand at sailing.
And of course, during the high season, the possibilities are multiplied: paddle or kayak for the more contemplative, windsurfing and jet-skiing for the thrill-seekers, etc.
Sablettes Beach, between the 2 ports. Photo: Tangopaso, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
5. Escape into the gardens
The town was one of the favourite haunts of the elite of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Many of them set up atypical gardens where they could find serenity and organise parties.
There are no fewer than six superb gardens of great size and style. Note that they are generally subject to a charge (10 euros or less per person). I suggest a tour that includes the four to the east of the old town, as they are more accessible and more surprising. They are just a few yards from the sea, so you can walk along the coast and then visit each one.
Let's go from west to east: you'll see at the end why this is ideal.
The first, just before the Garavan port, is the Val-Rahmeh botanical garden. Wonderfully lush, this area of almost 4 acres is a place of contemplation that will put you in a sublime mood.
Then there's the Fontana Rosa garden, located roughly halfway along the length of Garavan port. Created a century ago by a Spanish writer, it boasts an impressive array of magnificent monuments decorated with multicolored ceramics.
At the end of the Garavan port (which is definitely an excellent landmark), the Clos Peyronnet garden is the most British of the four: it has a deceptively wild appearance that grabs hold of the buildings and invites a gentle melancholy. This one is still private, which also explains why it is more expensive: 20 euros per person.
Finally, the almost 150-year-old Maria Serena garden is a must-see: it and its monumental villa are located just before the border. It offers a unique diversity of plants native to Africa (Menton has a tropical microclimate, remember?) and an unrivaled view over the bay, making a perfect finale to this walk.
Victoria Amazonica Pond in the Val Remheh Garden. Photo: Gossipguy, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
6. Take part in the Lemon Festival
At the end of winter, one of Menton's most famous events takes place: the Lemon Festival. This surprising name actually refers to the town's carnival (in Provence, as in Italy, carnivals are very popular).
It's held from mid-February to early March, around the same time as Nice's (and Rio de Janeiro’s, but let's not get carried away here!). It's a good reason to visit during this period.
The floats, the dances and the music are all there, of course, but what makes it so famous is that the floats are made almost entirely of...lemons and oranges!
You can watch the corsos (the parades) in the evening and, during the day, take a stroll through the Biovès Gardens (the wide, green avenue leading down from the railway station) to get a closer look at the floats.
Floats during the festival. Photo: Bohyunlee, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Visit the Bastion and walk in the footsteps of Jean Cocteau
Jean Cocteau is one of the greatest French artists of the 20th century. Poet, draughtsman, painter, playwright, and film-maker, he had the great idea of falling in love with Menton and devoting his art to the town. Although his works can be found in various parts of the Riviera, they are most numerous here.
The nerve centre is the Bastion overlooking the Old Port. Cocteau himself presided over its restoration as a place to house his works. Open every day except Tuesday, it offers a unique artistic experience thanks to its highly original setting. At €5 a ticket, it would be a shame to miss out.
And if you like it, you can extend your visit by going next door to the Musée Jean Cocteau Collection Séverin Wunderman, which houses the world's largest collection dedicated to the artist.
The Bastion. Photo: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra from Paris, France, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
8. Take a day trip to the medieval town of Roquebrune
In mountainous regions around the world, villages and fortresses were once built on top of escarpments to make them easier to defend. The old village of Roquebrune is a perfect example of this, and a superb one at that: don't miss it!
This rocky peak between Monaco and Menton gives you a great view of both, as well as the rest of the nearby region. You could climb it on foot, but that's no mean feat: prefer the car or the bus (several lines are available, the main one being the 22).
Once there, as well as enjoying the view, wander through the narrow streets, visit the twentieth-century château (€5 a visit!) and pay your respects to the village's thousand-year-old olive tree, which science estimates to be the oldest tree in France, between... 2,000 and 2,800 years old. Yes: this tree has seen Rome's legions pass through.
You won't find many more Provençal visits than this one.
Roquebrune. Photo: Myosotismail, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
9. Visit the towns in the foothills behind Menton
If the visit to the old village of Roquebrune has convinced you, then extend the experience by heading into the heights above Menton. You'll ideally have your own vehicle to get the most out of this tour, but bus routes (all of which hve stops near the railway station) lead directly to the sites as well.
There are a number of villages that you might like to visit: to the northeast Castellar (buses 1 & 6: 4 miles away and 400 yards above sea level), to the north Sainte-Agnès (bus 10: 6 miles away and 850 yards above sea level: the highest coastal village in Europe!), to the northwest Gorbio (bus 7: 5 miles away and 500 yards above sea level).
So many unique discoveries and so many views of the region to make this a tour in its own right.
In particular, Sainte-Agnès gives you the chance to visit a little-known relic: part of the Maginot Line, the immense fortified system that separated France from Germany and Italy before the Second World War.
In the midst of the wilderness and a historic village, you suddenly find yourself plunged into a maze of concrete corridors and defensive turrets rising up out of the mountains. Very impressive indeed.
Saint-Agnés. Photo: Patrick Rouzet, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
10. Tour the Cap Martin
Looking for nature and the scent of the sea without having to really leave the city? The Riviera has many coastal walks, almost all of them accessible to the whole family. Here, it's the Le Corbusier trail, which circles Cap Martin: a 3-mile route offering numerous swimming spots and a remarkable view of Monaco.
To get there, allow a good half-hour's walk from Carnolès station: while the walk is pleasant, the path itself really starts at the tip of the Cap. Follow it all the way. This will take you to the exit for Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, in the direction of Monaco.
Getting back to Menton couldn't be easier: the Roquebrune-Cap-Martin train station is at the end of the path. All that's left for you to do is get back to Menton... unless you choose to do it the other way round: arrive by train and then take the footpath back to Menton on foot.
Cap Martin, around Roquebrune. Photo: Florian Pépellin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Restaurants and Dining in Menton
You'll probably want to dine in the liveliest areas or by the sea, and that's just as well: that's where you'll find most of the restaurants, particularly at the foot of the old town and on the Esplanade des Sablettes.
Naturally, you should be aware of the touristy establishments and concentrate on those that are still authentic. Here's a hint: it's generally best to keep the menu small and seasonal, to ensure that the cuisine is local and appropriate.
Bistro-style restaurants are a good choice, because casual dining is in the local style. You can eat Italian as well as Provençal food, particularly in small family-run establishments: I have a habit of going to Trattoria la Mamma, behind the Halles market, but you'll come across many others of the same type.
And if you want to make new discoveries without upsetting your habits, don't be tempted by the fast-food restaurants, but prefer ABAM ("A Boire A Manger": "To Drink To Eat") and its home-made burgers adapted to local produce, a little to the west of the old town.
In a more chic style, there's the highly reputed L'Avenue, at the foot of the old town on the west side, or the Bistrot des Jardins, located beneath the Careï market: during the Lemon Festival, it's a great place to eat near the floats on display.
Finally, I can't fail to recommend that you take advantage of your visit to the old village of Roquebrune to extend the pleasure with lunch or dinner. Here, for me, there's no hesitation: I go to La Grotte & L'Olivier, which undoubtedly boasts one of the best views possible, as well as a remarkable quality of produce and service.
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