A Local’s Guide to Travel in Monaco - Beyond the Glitz and Glamour
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Monaco is without doubt the best-known micro-state in the world, perhaps rivaled only by the Vatican. It is also the second smallest in the world (after the Vatican), measuring only 0.77 square miles. And yet, despite its tiny size, there are so many activities, so many possibilities, and so much history here!
In such a small area, tucked away at the foot of the Alps, where they drop almost straight into the Mediterranean Sea, Monaco manages to pack in all the essentials that you would expect of a historic city that has adapted to modern times, along with a whole lot of the “superficial”, which by I mean luxury, glamour, and an entire industry that caters to jet-setters and the rich and famous.
But Monaco is more than just the playground of the rich, and within its boundaries you’ll find the famous citadel, the no-less-famous casino, a plelthora of luxury hotels, a football stadium for their surprisingly good team, an ice rink, a circus tent, several museums, a zoo, olympic-sized swimming pools, an opera house, an exotic garden, concert halls, three (!) harbours, and countless restaurants, cafes, bars, and nightclubs.
And that’s not to mention the year-round array of events that take place in the city, from horse shows and tennis tournaments, to festivals, cultural events of all kinds and, of course, the Formula 1 Grand Prix.
Monaco offers all of this in less than a single square mile, and despite being one of the world’s great tourism hotspots, it never feels cramped.
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Where is Monaco?
Monaco has its feet in the sea and borders on just one country: France. A common joke is that, in order to impose a blockade on the country, all you have to do is put a "no entry" sign at the western entrance road and one at the eastern entrance road.
To the west is the road to Nice, 14 miles away. To the east is the road to Italy, 17 miles away. To the south, you fall straight into the water; to the north, the small French town of Beaulieu and the mountains stop you in your tracks.
Does that mean Monaco is isolated? Not at all! Nice is not far away, and with it, its international airport. You can get to Monaco by helicopter, of course, but you can also take the train directly here or drive along the motorway, which is obviously nearby.
Why visit
Monaco is simply a must-see for anyone traveling along the Riviera, even if it’s not somewhere that you think you’re going to like all that much. It's also a regular haunt for everyone living in the region, and people (locals and tourists) come here to discover an art of living and a style that seems to be from another age.
Your first visit to Monaco is worthwhile just for the sake of discovering it, because this country is so original that it simply needs to be seen. To get here, you’ll drive along one of the coastal roads that wind up the mountainside towards Italy, and you won’t be able to help but be struck by the sudden appearance, at the bend in the road, of this sunny city that seems to be clinging to the coast and stretching further out toward the sea every year.
As soon as you cross the border, you sense that something has changed. Something whispers in your ear that you've entered a different place: it's the result, to some extent, of the appearance of small, chic buildings, the exceptional cleanliness of the streets, and a certain calm that contrasts with the usual hectic energy of big cities.
Once you're here, you'll naturally want to discover more: the citadel perched on its rock will catch your eye, and the many pedestrianized streets - with their shops and restaurants - will make you want to stroll aimlessly for hours.
How to get here
So that it's clear: while it's easy to get to Monaco, it's not always possible to get there directly.
Arriving by air
Ideally, you should first fly into Nice and its big international airport. From there, everything is designed to make connections as easy as possible. You can of course take a taxi, but the easiest - and by far the cheapest - way is to go to Saint-Augustin station and catch an onward train from there ( it’s just a few minutes' walk from the airport and also accessible by tram if you're loaded up with bags or worried about getting lost).
From Saint-Augustin station, dozens of daily trains will take you to Monaco, passing right along the coastline and offering up beautiful panoramas.
Arriving by train
In case you’ll already be in France and/or don’t want to fly, there are plenty of options for getting here by train from elsewhere in the country.
From basically everywhere, you can catch a direct, high-speed TGV to Nice, where you’ll need to transfer to the local trains to continue on to Monaco.
Whether you're arriving from Paris (480 miles from Monaco), Marseille (130 miles) or elsewhere, there are regular trains throughout the day that offer direct, comfortable, and quick service to Nice.
You’ll get off in Nice and will then catch a connecting train to Monaco, which is quite easy because the TGV arrivals are usually timed perfectly to allow you to catch the next regional train.
And even if you miss it, there are one or two per hour. In short: there's no need to worry or run.
Arriving from Italy
By train from Italy, it's just as simple, but instead of a connection at Nice, you'll take one at Ventimiglia, the border town at the extreme north-west of the Italian coast. Here again, French and Italian trains are usually coordinated so that you can board one after stepping off from the other.
By car, there’s no problem either: the motorway links the two countries freely (there is free movement within the European Union). I would, however, recommend taking the seaside route: a much longer journey, as it takes you through the town of Menton, but obviously a much more bucolic one.
When to visit
Photo: Tobi 87, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Like most Mediterranean regions, Monaco can be visited in any season, but each has its own nuances, of course. There's one constant: whether you come in the middle of summer or the middle of winter, the climate will always be mild and the city will always offer plenty to do.
Visiting in summer
As with everywhere on the Riviera, there are plenty of events in summer. During this season, you can of course swim in the beautiful sea at any of the beaches or in the pool, enjoy the terraces, and so on.
Summer kicks off with the Formula 1 Grand Prix, held at the end of May. It's a spectacle that you must see at least once in your life. Watching the race isn't even the most interesting part though: rather, seeing the city transform and feeling the electric atmosphere everywhere is whats so special about it. But be informed, grandstand tickets sell for between 100 and 1,000 euros, so this isn’t a cheap event.
As well as concerts and festivals, the events organized by the principality will be devoted to the outdoors and above all to the sea, which is obviously a great passion of Monegasques. You can discover new naval inventions during the Monaco Energy Boat Challenge (July) or attend the Monaco Classic Week regattas (September).
Visiting at other times of year
Monaco never rests, so there's no such thing as an 'off-season', but rather, there are less busy seasons during which you can discover the city in a more authentic light. And at any time of year there will still be a variety of events, with concerts, exhibitions, and so on happening all the time.
With its 39,000 inhabitants (to which must be added the many French and Italians who work here but don't live here), Monaco very surprisingly has something quite local about it, but the country remains very international as well, and the most intimate neighborhood life rubs shoulder to shoulder with the most glamorous luxury of the “jet set” lifestyle.
In autumn, winter or spring, you'll enjoy strolling along the harbor or going up to the historic town to admire the view before heading off to a museum, the casino, or, of course, one of the many upmarket shops in the commercial areas.
How long to spend
You could spend a lifetime in Monaco and never tire of it, but a single day is enough to visit the city and get a taste for its atmosphere and lifestyle. If possible though, you should try to stay overnight so that you can make the most of a night out, or at the very least an evening, especially if you arrive when an important event is taking place.
A very important and pleasant point to know: Monegasques are welcoming, very welcoming, so never hesitate to ask for advice or directions, especially from the police, who are very helpful and almost all speak French, Italian, and English.
If you're arriving by car, plan to park it somewhere as soon as you arrive and then do your whole visit on foot: Monaco is built on a very human scale and it is best explored by walking. No car needed.
There are plenty of underground car parks, so you’ll find many convenient options for where to leave the car. Incredible as it may seem for this small country, parking is very easy.
1-day Monaco itinerary
On your visit, start, of course, by paying your respects to the Prince: from the main port, known as Port Hercules, walk up to the princely palace on the "Rocher" (the "Rock").
To get there, don't make the mistake of taking the bus or going round by road. Instead, take the old fortified access that winds up along the cliff. The effort is well worth it, with the magnificent views and arrival at the foot of the palace. If you're lucky, you'll be able to see the changing of the guard ceremony - Monaco has nothing to envy London.
After a stroll around the palace and the old town, head down to the harbor for lunch, then continue on to the casino district for a tour of the gardens and, if you like, the shops. And why not visit the casino itself, especially if you’re feeling lucky?!
In the evenings, Monaco's main hotspot is Port Hercules and the area around the casino. Near the port, you'll find numerous bars with terraces, while there are more nightclubs near the casino.
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Where to stay
Sleeping, by which I mean booking a hotel, is by far the most expensive thing you can do in Monaco: expect to pay between €200 and €1,000 a night for normal lodgings, knowing that some luxury rooms can cost much, much more than that.
Unless you’re fabulously wealthy, the most practical solution is to cross the border, i.e. cross the road on the mountainside to arrive into the French commune of Beausoleil, and stay overnight here instead. In this lovely little town, you'll find charming hotels that are much cheaper than in Monaco, and you’ll be just a few minutes’ walk from Monaco’s city center.
Beausoleil
Just a stone's throw from the train station in Beausoleil, the Hôtel Forum and the Aparthotel Adagio Monaco Monte Cristo offer rooms with nice views for less than €150, and accordingly, are two of the most popular options for travelers.
Monaco
If you're planning to stay in Monaco, however, the best value for money is to be found close to the Rock, with the Hotel Ambassador Monaco coming in at around €200 a night.
When it comes to luxury, you'll want to stay close to the casino: the two emblematic hotels here are the Hermitage Monte-Carlo and the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo. Rooms start at around €600, but the service is top quality.
What to see and do in Monaco
You'll soon realize that there's a lot to do and discover in Monaco, and here are some of my favorite things to see and do.
1. Explore the Old Town and the Rocher
This should be your priority. Go to the southern end of the Port Hercules, a few minutes' walk from the train station, and take the pedestrian access up to the palace: you can't miss it, as its fortifications form the access along the Rocher (which you can't miss either: it and the palace built on top of it dominate the port).
The Rocher is the rocky hill that juts out into the sea above the port and atop which Monaco was originally built. So, this is where you'll find the historic center of the city, the Prince's residence, the cathedral ,and some of the best views in town (as well as some good restaurants: more on that later).
Bring water if it's hot, take time to enjoy the view as you climb up, and eventually you'll reach the top of the Rocher in front of the entrance to the princely palace. This takes you to the vast Place du Palais (Palace Place). Walk along the palace to arrive under the trees and admire the panoramic view across the square to the south, over the district and port of Fontvieille.
Now it's time to explore the old town: take a stroll through the narrow streets, but don't miss the cathedral, also on the south side. From the ramparts in front of the cathedral, you can walk down to enjoy the Garden Saint Martin (located along the cliff: so you have to take a few steps!), or walk along the ramparts towards the oceanographic museum.
Continue until you reach the tip of the Rocher, and then return along the ramparts on the other side, to the north, with great views of Port Hercules along the way.
Le Rocher is rather small: you won't get lost, so take your time wandering around at random.
The Rocher. Photo: Georges Jansoone (JoJan), CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Visit the prince's palace
The palace can be visited from March to October. This former 13th-century fortress has undergone numerous modifications and is now a residence with both a medieval and modern appearance.
The prince and his family live in the rear part, which opens onto private gardens: you can visit the historic part where events and ceremonies take place, including the throne room. Not to be missed.
The Prince’s Palace
3. Discover the oceanographic museum
This will be the highlight of your visit to the Rocher. This magnificent building, which plunges into the sea, was dedicated to Prince Albert Ist, who led several explorations around the world at the beginning of the 20th century and made considerable advances in natural science.
The museum consists of two parts: vast rooms displaying the treasures brought back from the Prince's voyages (from shells to whale skeletons) and, in the basement, an aquarium displaying hundreds of living species.
4. Explore the port district (quartier du port)
Monaco's second most historic district is also the busiest. Less touristy than the Rocher, it is also a lively place where Monegasques and the French love to stroll, shop and have lunch.
The streets just behind the port form the heart of this district, and most of them are pedestrianized, making for a more bucolic stroll than elsewhere in the city.
This is also where you can visit the Condamine market, Monaco's historic food market. Monegasques come here to chat and buy their fresh produce. You'll find it on the Place d'Armes (Square of Arms), i.e. where you take the path up to the Palace: a handy place to start your visit with some fruit if it's hot.
Depending on the season of your visit, the port will offer different activities. If you come in summer, you can enjoy the temporary water park.
In autumn, the carnival and its big wheel take over, while you wait for winter and the arrival of the temporary ice rink and Christmas market.
Finally, as the warm weather approaches, the site begins to be transformed to accommodate the starting line of the Formula 1 Grand Prix.
Port Hercules. Photo: Uhooep, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
5. Relax on the beaches
Monaco has not one, but several beaches. The most popular is Larvotto, close to the east border and the principality.
But the two most original are at the foot of the Rocher, accessible either from the Rocher or from the port. There's the Solarium beach, which is entirely artificial (and without sand), built on the breakwater of Port Hercule: you go there for its originality and for the pleasure of swimming, as it overlooks deep water.
Regular visitors generally prefer the Pêcheurs cove, which can be reached from the Solarium along the west side of the harbor: discreet and calm, it is one of the principality's hidden treasures.
Larvotto beach. Photo: Benoît Prieur , CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Explore the culture - museums and art shows
There's something for everyone. If you want to discover the history of the princes and of Monaco, visit the Musée du Vieux Monaco (near the palace) or admire the Prince's car collection (accessible from the port).
The Princes of Monaco are also patrons of the arts: in addition to the old and new National Museums, which exhibit artists from all eras, be sure to check out the art events taking place when you visit.
7. Visit the city’s gardens
Despite all its infrastructure and its many events, Monaco still manages to have four very famous themed gardens: the Exotic Garden (near the Place d'Armes, sadly closed until 2025), the Saint Martin Garden (built into the side of the cliff on the Rocher: I told you about it earlier), the Casino’s Gardens (in front of the... casino: you can't miss them) and the Japanese Garden (the most exotic of the four: 5 minutes from the casino towards the Larvotto beach - the path is clearly signposted and everyone will be able to point you in the right direction).
Each one is as peaceful as it is exotic, and the views are superb.
The Japanese Garden. Photo: User:Parisette, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
8. Go to the casino
Don't let its luxurious reputation fool you: the Monaco casino is open to everyone... except Monegasques, that is. Monegasques are the only ones not allowed to gamble there: it's the law.
Originally, 150 years ago, the aim was to prevent Monegasques, who were too poor (!), from mixing with the chic public who came to play, and while that may no longer be the primary issue, the law still stands and it's now accepted practice and nobody complains.
Whether you gamble or not, the casino is well worth a visit for its superb Belle Epoque architecture.
The Casino. Photo: Casal Partiu, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
9. Experience the nightlife
This is an important part of discovering Monaco. As a place to party and have fun, the principality has everything to offer. French locals love coming to Port Hercule in the summer, where there are trendy, inexpensive bars and restaurants, as well as nightclubs.
The choicest nightlife in Monaco is, once again, in the casino district, where you'll find the biggest nightclubs.
10. Find out about current events
Monaco is constantly buzzing with cultural and sporting events, so before you come, be sure to do internet searches to find out about upcoming temporary events like shows, concerts, sporting competitions, firework displays, etc.
There is always something going on here, so check the calendar and prepare for some interesting activities and events.
11. Take a day trip over to La Turbie and Eze
What are La Turbie and Eze? Two French villages close to Monaco, accessible almost exclusively by car.
La Turbie is famous for its ancient monument, the Trophée d'Auguste. You're welcome to stop by, but as we're focusing on Monaco today, La Turbie is also a very popular vantage point for viewing Monaco.
From the village, in particular, take the route de la Tête de Chien to reach one of the region's most popular viewpoints, overlooking a cliff overlooking Monaco. Don't hesitate to ask for directions.
Eze, meanwhile, is a superb medieval village perched on a rocky outcrop and surrounded by cliffs on the road between Monaco and Nice. If you're driving, take the Moyenne Corniche road to make sure you don't miss this visit.
Eze. Photo: Jean Pierre Lozi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
La Turbie. Photo: Berthold Werner, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Restaurants & dining
As you may have guessed, restaurants in Monaco, like hotels, are often expensive. But it's not just the prestige of the place that you're paying for: you're also paying for genuine quality of cuisine and service.
Yet you can find anything here: local employees and visitors alike don't always want to go to a gourmet restaurant, so while you may have to work a bit to find more “regular” places, there are plenty of them here.
This is especially true because Italian culture is very much alive and well in Monaco, and in Italy people like to eat simply but well, without paying ridiculous prices.
For me, one of the best places to go is La Maison des Pâtes (which has two locations: one in the port area and another near the casino), where you can get fresh pasta dishes at excellent value for money.
And while we're on the subject of Italian cuisine: more expensive but very good is La Tavernetta, on the Rocher. They’re renowned for their pizza, but have many other good dishes too.
In the same district, you can also discover l'Express, which is reasonably priced and offers a range of vegetarian and vegan dishes.
In the casino district, one of the most surprising addresses is Il Terrazzino, which offers a warm, family atmosphere and a breathtaking view. Very affordable prices, especially if you go at lunchtime.
In the higher price bracket, you'll be spoiled for choice. L'Hirondelle and L'Amù Monte Carlo are particularly pleasant thanks to their panoramic terraces overlooking the sea (prices range from €40 to €70 per person).
Around the casino, you'll find the most chic restaurants, such as Les Ambassadeurs (expect to pay around a hundred euros per dish).
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