A Local’s One Week French Riviera Itinerary
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For many foreigners, and for most French people, the very word Provence conjures up an imaginary world in which a gentle way of life, games of petanque, the sea, the cicadas, and of course, the omnipresent sun all coexist.
And if you also mention the Riviera, an even clearer picture emerges: the tourism of yesterday's elite, that of today's middle classes, the Var coastline, Cannes and its festival, Grasse and its perfumes, the Baie des Anges, the ramparts of Antibes, Nice, and of course Monaco, the second most famous city-state in the world (after the Vatican).
Other French people are sometimes a little jealous of those of us from here, and it’s to understand why! In addition to beautiful cities, fabulous beaches, and a near perfect sea, the many foreigners who visit, live, and study here (almost as much as in Paris), give us a richness that makes the Riviera one of the most cosmopolitan places in the country.
But of course, as is often the case when a place is very well known, the image people have of my region is both justified and incomplete, and flattering but not necessarily in line with reality.
The fame of our coastline overshadows the nearby winter sports resorts. The Cannes Film Festival outshines the beauty of the Lérins landscapes. The Nice Carnival (which people come all the way from China to see!) eclipses the rich historical heritage of a city that was a military stronghold for centuries.
So, obviously, I can't claim to be able to show you the 'other side' of the Riviera in just one week. However, I do believe I can give you a few essential keys that will enable you to discover an unsuspected authenticity that many travelers miss out on when visiting my region.
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Table of contents
What to know when planning your trip
How long to spend
When to visit
Where to go on a first trip
How to get around
Itinerary overview
7-day itinerary
Day 1: Nice
Day 2: Monaco
Day 3: Antibes
Day 4: Grasse and Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Day 5: Cannes
Day 6: Fréjus and Saint-Tropez
Day 7: Hyères and its islands
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If you could use some help planning your French Riviera itinerary, consider scheduling a France travel consultation with our Local Expert, Pascal!
These are one-hour Zoom calls where you’ll get to chat with Pascal about the trip you’re planning and he’ll share his tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.
What to know when planning your trip
How long to spend
I think a week-long visit to the Riviera provides the perfect introduction to the region. 7 days here gives you enough time to traverse the coast from east to west (or in reverse), visiting all of the region’s principal cities and towns and also getting out into the countryside to see the spectacular scenery and charming little villages.
While you could probably dash madly through in less time (especially if you have a car), that wouldn’t be doing the Riviera justice, as this is far more than just a beach destination.
There are tons of old towns here with interesting history and architecture, an almost obscene number of great beaches, a few big cities where you can get a taste of our cosmopolitan culture, a truly impressive array of artists, artisans, and local producers, lots of old palaces and ornate gardens, and a gorgeous countryside filled with lovely scenery and bucolic little villages that will transport you back in time.
If you want the luxury of exploring everything I’ve mentioned above, I really recommend at least a week here, during which you could spend your days doing a nice mix of urban exploring, outdoor activities, beach lounging, and historical/cultural visits.
When to visit
With an average of over 300 sunny days per year and a climate that never gets any colder than “chilly”, there really isn’t a bad time to visit the Riviera.
That doesn’t mean some periods aren’t nicer than others though, and for for the average visitor, late spring or early fall are the two best times for a visit. Both periods offer pleasantly warm but not overwhelmingly hot daytime temperatures, and the sea will be warm enough for swimming by early June and continuing all the way through October.
Summer, of course, also offers great beach weather, but it comes with overwhelming heat in the middle of the day that makes doing basically anything unpleasant, and being the high season, crowds are significant everywhere you go and prices for everything are at their highest.
The fall, particular the early part of the season, offers many of the benefits of summer, but with more moderate temperatures, fewer crowds, and reduced prices. By the middle of September, most vacationers will have returned home, so you’ll get a much more local experience.
This is a great period for exploring the cities, hiking in the countryside, and yes, hitting the beach. Just be aware that as the season progresses, the chances of rain increase, with October in particular seeing short-lived but intense downpours and thunderstorms.
Winter would not be most people’s choice for a visit to the south of France, but as long as you know what to expect, it can actually be a nice time to be here. It does start to get chilly, but it’s rarely downright cold, and the fall rains have fully passed, meaning that you’ll have many bright, sunny days.
Also, as the Riviera lies at the base of the Alps, you can do some surprisingly excellent skiing and winter sports just by heading a short drive up into the mountains.
Yes, many tourism-focused businesses will be closed and you won’t find some many open terraces or patios, but the cities will still be lively, the crowds will be nonexistent, and prices will be low.
Spring is another excellent time for a visit, especially later in the the season when the temperatures have started to warm up and the periodic spring rains have ended. The countryside will be in full bloom, so it’s a lovely time of year to get out into nature.
And tourism doesn’t really get going here until around the middle of June, so this is a nice period to see local life picking back up after the quiet of winter.
How to get around
In terms of travel, the Riviera has one defining characteristic: its shape, which is entirely linear.
This is a bit of a disadvantage, as you can't easily base yourself in one central position and make visits to other destinations throughout the area from there. Paris or Lyon, for example, are more conveniently located in that they are surrounded by other places that can be easily visited as day trips from either city.
However, this linear makeup also has an advantage - your route is self-evident. Traveling east to west (or the reverse), you’ll traverse 150 kilometers coastline, passing through unique and beautiful places at every turn.
For most international visitors, you’ll likely arrive in Marseille on the west, or Nice on the east. From Marseille, you’ll head east and will soon be on the Var coastline, whose unspoiled landscapes and incredible coves make up the western end of the Riviera. If arriving in Nice, on the opposite end of the Riviera, you’ll head west instead and will make the same journey, just in reverse.
Regardless of where you begin your visit, your options for getting around the Riviera are train, bus, and car.
Public transportation - train and bus
The entire Riviera is very well served by train, and has been since the 19th century, when the arrival of the railway transformed this peaceful little region into a world-renowned holiday destination. Most towns along the coast have good train connections.
The train is called the TER (Express Regional Train) and in high season it is generally a much better option than buses as you won’t get stuck in heavy traffic.
Train service is operated by the French national rail service, Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Français (SNCF). You can purchase tickets directly on their website or in-person at any train station.
Even in places where the train doesn't run (inland), there are bus routes that make most any city or town that you’d be interested in visiting accessible by some combination of train and bus. A couple of different companies operate bus routes, but the main two are Lignes d’Azur and Zou.
Bus tickets can be purchased at bus stations, ticket kiosks/vending machines, directly aboard the bus, and on the Lignes d’Azur mobile app. Single use tickets cost 1.50 euro, but you can also buy unlimited use 1-day passes (5 euro) or an unlimited use 7-day pass (20 euro).
Remember that you must validate bus tickets.
Renting a car
While you can move around the Riviera quite well using public transport, if you have limited time it's much more practical to have a car at your disposal.
Having your own set of wheels will also allow you to get out into the surrounding hills, which are quickly accessible by car and offer superb views and nature. Aside from being able to see more, you’ll be able to get away from the most crowded places too.
Where to find a car rental: Nice, with its international airport, has by far the widest selction of rental car agencies, but you’ll also find offices in Cannes, Antibes, Saint-Tropez (though very few), Sainte Maxime (also very few), and a few other towns.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
Itinerary overview
Traveling from the east of the Riviera to its western edge, this itinerary will take you through some of this area’s most famous places, such as Nice, Monaco, and Cannes, while sprinkling in visits to lesser-known gems where you can fully experience the famous atmosphere and relaxed pace of life of the Cote d’Azur.
While the plan I’ve put together for you is very much doable in any season, I’ve assumed that you’ll be visiting during the warmer months of the year, and have included ample opportunity for beach visits, water sports, and lounging in the sun (that’s a big part of the allure of being here after all!).
No visit here would be complete without exploring our architecture, culture, and history though, so you’ll also find many recommendations for visits to museums and historical sites, both well-known and more off-the-beaten-path.
For this particular itinerary, I've decided to take you on a journey in the direction that I'm most familiar with: from east to west. Here’s a quick look at the plan:
Day 1: Start off in Nice, the biggest city in the Riviera and the place that you’re undoubtedly going to fly into anyways!
Day 2: From there, head on to Monaco for a taste of luxury, glamour, and nightlife.
Day 3: Continue your journey with a visit to the charming little town of Antibes, which offers a totally different perspective on the region from busy Nice and luxurious Monaco.
Day 4: Today, head into the hills away from the coast and check out the charming villages of Grasse and and Saint-Paul-de-Vence.
Day 5: Return to the coast to visit Cannes, famous for its international film festival and “high society” lifestyle.
Day 6: Make your way further west to Fréjus and Saint-Tropez, two smaller towns that perfectly straddle the line between authentic local life and upscale tourism.
Day 7: On your final day in the Riviera, wrap up your time here by enjoying island life of the coast of Hyères.
Day 1 - Discovering Nice
The inhabitants of Nice like to say that they live in a village, not a town or city, and this is with good reason: nestled between the sea and the foothills of the very beginning of the Alps, Nice occupies a tiny little space within which it sometimes feels as if everyone knows each other. And that's a good thing, because it's easy to meet new people and make new friends.
Morning
If you get up early enough, make the most of the early morning calm by watching the sun rise from Nice’s famous Promenade des Anglais and, more specifically, from Rauba Capeu, the little cape at the foot of the Colline du Château. From here, you can enjoy an exceptional panoramic view of the sea, stretching as far as Cap d'Antibes.
After sunrise, it's time to head to Vieux Nice (the old town), which also comes alive in the morning sunshine. The Cours Saleya market is the heart of this part of town and every day except Monday, you can do your shopping here, whether it's for handicrafts, objets d'art, fruit and vegetables, or flowers.
Pro tip: flowers are a big thing on the Riviera, and they're everywhere, so you should always be on the lookout for them.
Enjoy a well-deserved breakfast or brunch in the old town. I suggest you explore the streets to find your ideal spot, but be wary of the restaurants on the Cours Saleya, which are too touristy. Instead, lose yourself around the courthouse and the cathedral and get breakfast there.
Then head for the Colline du Château, which is accessible from here via any number of roads, streets and staircases. As the day goes on, this is a good opportunity to remind yourself that in our hot, sun-drenched region, you should always carry water with you.
From the Château (which no longer exists, but the area retains the name), enjoy the view over Nice, the peace and quiet of the place, and the waterfall (!). Lunchtime is approaching, but in the steady heat you might already fancy an ice cream.
There are good shops that you'll find just about everywhere, but my favorite is at Azzurro, which makes its own ice cream and cones and is priced quite reasonably.
For lunch, you should know that while finding somewhere to eat in Nice is always easy, finding restaurants that serve authentic Niçois cuisine is much more complicated. My best advice is to choose a family-run establishment with a bistro atmosphere and to just follow your instincts.
I have a personal affection for Lou Balico, located near the museum of contemporary art, and it’s always my top choice. Another establishment with an excellent reputation is Lou Fran Calin, which is in the center of the old town.
Afternoon
After lunch, it's time to get off the beaten track and head for the hill of Cimiez. 2,000 years ago, this was the site of the Roman city of Cemenelum, the ancestor to our modern city. Today, it’s one of the most exclusive residential areas but you can easily get there in ten minutes by bus or car.
After passing by the old Hotel Regina (decorated with a huge crown to commemorate Queen Victoria's stay there in the 19th century), stop at the ancient Roman arena, leaving your car (if you have one) in the small car park on avenue du Monastère, just above.
Here, you are in what was once the center of Nice and is still to some extent its soul.
Cross the arena and visit the archaeology museum to discover the remains of the city's past, which are superbly showcased by the museum's exceptional team and its cultural mediator, whose name is...Romain. You can't make that up!
If you're more interested in more recent art, you're also at the doorstep of the Matisse Museum. This great artist spent part of his life in Nice, and excellent works are displayed here.
From here, you can move on to the Chagall Museum, which is on your way back down the hill returning toward the city center.
Evening
Having returned to the center of town, it's time for a drink. The old town is an obvious place to go as there are countless pubs, lounges, and cocktail bars. The port, which has been fairly extensively renovated recently, is currently the trendiest spot.
You can also head to rue Bonaparte (behind the port), which is renowned for its very friendly atmosphere.
And if you're feeling peckish before dinner, try Pipo's, which is in the same district. They have a reputation for preparing excellent socca, a typical Nice chickpea pancake.
For beer lovers (myself included), there are two outstanding establishments: the Beer District in the Libération district serves excellent beers and home fries at very reasonable prices and with a great festive atmosphere.
The other is the Big Ben pub in the city center, which is more expensive and has more common (generic) beers, but has a family atmosphere, a stunning décor, and is a local institution.
For dinner, it's best to head back toward (or stay in) the city center. If you chose to visit the Beer District however, you should absolutely take note of this totally astonishing restaurant: La Route du Miam.
This a tiny place run by a couple, where you can enjoy half a duck (!) served with foie gras and potatoes fried in...foie gras. But be warned: if you want a table, you'll need to book well in advance or be very lucky.
Overnight in Nice
For the best location, you should look at the area between the train station and the coastline, mostly around Avenue Jean Médecin. The Riquier district (behind the port) is a particularly good place to stay, thanks to its proximity to the old Palais des Congrès.
Day 2 - Monaco
Here again we have an incredibly famous place that is really essentially unknown. Monaco is a very surprising microcosm - in just 2 square kilometers you have an ancient fortress, modern buildings, a casino, tennis courts, an ice rink, a football stadium, a zoo, a botanical garden, 40,000 inhabitants, a prince and his family, and, of course, a Formula 1 Grand Prix.
And we still haven’t covered everything. How do they do it? Monaco is an inimitable place.
Morning
From Nice, if you're travelling to Monaco by road, you should make a quick stop (about an hour) to visit the old village of Eze, which sits perched on a rocky peak. And in all cases, never take the highway! Always travel along the Grande Corniche, where the views are magnificent.
Once you reach Monaco, start by climbing the Rocher, but beware: the Rock lives up to its name. You could get there by bus, but the old access route along the ramparts is much nicer. It's well worth the effort of a short walk, and it takes you straight to the princely palace.
Enjoy the view, admire the palace and its guards, then head for your first destination: the Oceanographic Museum.
The most famous prince of Monaco was Albert the 1st, nicknamed the Prince Navigator. From 1889 to 1922, he travelled the world and led numerous scientific expeditions. This astonishing museum, housed in a huge historic building that plunges into the sea, is a tribute to his adventures and it’s an unusual place to visit.
A museum, a palace, a cabinet of curiosities, an aquarium: it's a bit of all these things. If nature, the sea, and the world interest you even a little, don't miss it.
After your visit, I suggest you have lunch in the Condamine district behind the port. This is a very pleasant pedestrian area where you'll find lots of brasseries offering lunchtime specials. Monegasques like to enjoy their lunch break here, so the prices are often reasonable and the crowds are quite local.
Afternoon
As the day wears on, it's time to move away from historic Monaco and towards the contemporary parts of the city.
After lunch, you can wander the pedestrianized streets of the Condamine area and browse the boutiques or choose a new museum that will give you a little more insight into this special place. While there is something for everyone, I recommend that you start by immersing yourself in the chic atmosphere that makes this place so special.
Perhaps the best place to start is with the Car Collection of H.S.H. the Prince of Monaco (Rainier III, father of the current prince). And yes, you read that right: it's not a museum, but rather a personal collection of over 100 cars.
This is a good starting point for understanding one of the most important aspects of Monaco: it's a city of extreme income disparity, where the poor, working class, and middle class, rub shoulders with the wealthiest of the elites.
Once you've done your sightseeing, head to the port. Admire the (very big) boats and start another climb, this time up the Avenue d'Ostende, on the opposite side of the Rocher. It takes you right past one of this city-state’s most central places: the famous Casino de Monte-Carlo.
Evening
As you approach the casino, cross the road towards the gardens on the opposite side. Stroll between the Casino Garden, the Japanese Garden and the Jardins de la Petite Afrique. As night falls, the area lights up and comes alive.
Luxury cars meet the most humble of scooters, revelers in dinner jackets and evening dresses meet people in the most casual of outfits (who are often not the least bit wealthy). Here you are at the heart of the Monegasque atmosphere.
Naturally, you may be tempted to go to the casino. Enjoy it if you like, but know that Monegasques are not allowed to.
For drinks and dinner, you might be more tempted to head back to the port, which is one of the other central and busiest parts of Monaco. Here, you'll find the most chic establishments as well as the most popular ones. Refined cocktails or generic beer, gourmet dishes or burgers - it's all available here.
Finally, if you want to dance, you'll find the best clubs near the casino (the Buddha-Bar is the most well-known among the French) or a little further along, towards Larvotto beach.
Overnight in Monaco
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Day 3 – Antibes
After two very urban days, it's time to start discovering a little-known yet essential aspect of the Riviera: the permanent communion between the city and nature. For this, we head to Antibes.
This former French border town (before 1860 and the annexation of the county of Nice by local referendum) is the perfect example of the region's contrasts. An old fortified town where once again, everyone seems to know everyone else, Antibes is also an embodiment of the touristic history of the Riviera.
Its Juan-les-Pins district, where trendy bars and nightclubs flourish around the casino (yes, another one), is an absolute tourist hotspot.
Perhaps more than anywhere else on the Riviera, Antibes combines the Provencal way of life with the dynamism of a seaside resort.
Morning
As you arrive in Antibes, I suggest that you stop off at the Provencal market on the Cours Masséna. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, it's smaller than the one in Nice, but more authentic and more varied.
Begin your visit with the quintessential Antibes walk around Cap d’Antibes, which every local has done at least once. Along the way, you’ll meander down small paths while enjoying magnificent views and intimate places.
But be prepared: this isn’t a short, one-hour walk. Instead, plan to devote a whole morning to it.
Here’s the route: leaving the old town of Antibes, head for the little port of La Salis, then walk along the road and admire the ramparts from the boulevard de Bacon ("boulevard" is a very big word for this little coastal road).
When you arrive at La Garoupe beach, you have two choices: follow the boulevard of the same name, which will take you quickly to Juan-les-Pins via the Port du Crouton.
Alternatively, take the "chemin des contrebandiers" (smugglers' path), which will have you going for another two hours and will offer breathtaking views over Cannes as you walk along the Baie des Milliardaires. If you go for the second route, you'll find yourself on a coastline that is almost wild. It’s a marvelous area.
Once again: don't forget to bring water!
Next, either by car or on foot, make your way up to the Garoupe lighthouse, whose panorama is totally unique. Visit its chapel, decorated with dozens of superb ex-votos from fishermen of days gone by, grateful to have escaped a storm or shipwreck. I think this scene helps you to imagine what life was like here before the arrival of tourism.
After a morning of walking, it’s time for a well-deserved lunch. From the Promenade du Cap or the lighthouse, you can walk along the seafront to Juan-les-Pins, or back to Antibes. Either way, you'll find plenty of places to eat along the walk, including good-quality bistros at very reasonable prices.
I have three favorite daytime places to recommend in Juan-les-Pins: for ice cream, Gelatita with its 100% home-made products is an absolute must. For lunch, try either Congrès or Provence Café.
Located side by side between two pine gardens, these two restaurants are as welcoming as they are different: the first is a small Vietnamese restaurant run by a Vietnamese family who prepare everything themselves (not very "local” dishes, but excellent). The second offers a variety of typical dishes with regular daily specials of the day (more local and always pleasant).
Or, if you’ve already made your way back to old Antibes, let yourself be tempted by whatever strikes your fancy. You’ll find chic restaurants, burger bars, Breton crêperies, etc.
Afternoon
After having wandered the narrow streets and ramparts to your heart's content, make your way to the Musée Picasso, housed in the Château Grimaldi, a superb building whose oldest parts are almost two thousand years old and which overlooks the town and the Baie des Anges.
It was here that the Spanish artist set up his studio in 1946, before moving to Vallauris (a village very close to Antibes) until 1955. As a result, the museum boasts a unique collection that is very well displayed.
If you visit quickly, or if twentieth-century art leaves something to be desired for you, the Musée d'Archéologie is another essential visit. The archaeological museum allows you to immerse yourself in the deep history of this town and even the region.
Antibes was known as Antipolis 2,000 years ago, when it was a Greek colony, and the shipwrecks discovered off the coast of the town, parts of which are now on display here, bear witness to this fact.
Finish your afternoon of discovery with a majestic visit to the Fort Carré. From the 16th to the 19th century, it was literally the most easterly sentinel on the French coast. It is also famous for having played host to General Napoleon Bonaparte, who was imprisoned for a fortnight in 1794 during some of the revolutionary unrest.
The fort can only be visited in groups with a guide, so make the most of it, and let their excellent team of English-speaking enthusiasts explain to you what military life was like at the time. Finally, the view is absolutely breathtaking. Please note, the site closes at 5pm.
Evening
As dusk approaches, take advantage of the cooler weather and walk along the Antibes harbor towards the town center.
Partake in an Antibes tradition, and head for an aperitif on the boulevard d'Aguillon, a pedestrianised street just behind the ramparts that is full of bars and restaurants of all kinds.
Or, for a more seaside atmosphere, head back to Juan-les-Pins, where one beach bar after another affords views of the sun disappearing behind the Estérel massif. Enjoy the sights while sipping a drink with your feet in the sand. Here, it's the Ruban Bleu that I prefer, as they have an excellent atmosphere, great service, and good seats.
For dinner, you're spoiled for choice. For warm Mediterranean cuisine in a family atmosphere, I dare to recommend L'Écureuil Espagnol - Casa Amando. The owner (Amando) prepares an amazing paella. This is a popular spot, so book ahead.
Overnight in Antibes
Day 4 - Grasse and Saint-Paul-de-Vence
It's time to begin climbing a bit above sea level and to make your way into the foothills of the surrounding Alps. For this, I recommend that you visit the villages of Grasse and Saint-Paul-de-Vence.
Morning
Start your day by traveling to Saint-Paul-de-Vence, which is a feast for all five senses. Take advantage of the free car parks and leave your car behind, getting lost in the medieval streets and browsing the lovely art galleries. Its strong ties to art are a distinctive feature of this village, so exploring the galleries and admiring the artwork is highly recommended.
If you're interested in contemporary art, spend an hour or two visiting the Maeght Foundation, where Braque, Calder, Chagall, Giacometti and Miró live side by side in and around a magnificent villa.
For lunch, I'd recommend heading to Grasse. Larger and more popular than Saint-Paul-de-Vence, this village offers a wider choice of restaurants and bistros. By car, take the scenic D7 or D2210 roads, both of which are worth the effort (around forty minutes driving) and offer some very beautiful scenery.
If you don’t have a car, you can take the bus from Saint-Paul-de-Vence, or if you skip the village entirely, you can also reach Grasse by train from Antibes.
For lunch in Grasse, head below the Route Napoléon, which is one of the town's main thoroughfares (it actually extends as far as Grenoble, but that's another story). Here, you’ll find small Provençal restaurants like La Cigale and Lou Pignatoun alongside a wide variety of other eateries.
One of the Riviera's great strengths is that it is not just a tourist destination - it remains an area with a strong local life that is still reminiscent of traditional villages. This means that no matter where you are, it’s never hard to find authentic, inexpensive places to eat.
While there are tons of tourist traps, with a little work and planning, they can be very easily avoided.
Afternoon
Every Frenchman knows that Grasse has been the city of perfume for centuries. So, once you've enjoyed its timeless atmosphere, head to the Musée International de la Parfumerie to learn more about this. Here, you'll discover the history of perfume, the history of Grasse, and some very surprising manufacturing processes.
You’ll also see dozens of old objects that have long since disappeared, such as the tube-shaped perfume bottles that horsemen used to slip into their boots so that they could be used at any time.
And while we're on the subject of the ancient art of living: continue with the Fragonard museum. This former perfume factory belonged to the descendants of Jean Honoré Fragonard, the most illustrious of the painters who depicted the "douceur de vivre" of the 18th century.
Between olfactory discoveries and exhibitions of works by the master, you'll travel three centuries back in time.
Finally, take a stroll around the city and enjoy the view. It should be evening by this point, just about when the sun begins to set over the Mediterranean.
Evening
In the evening, the terraces of many restaurants are lit up with lanterns and offer you the chance to dine with a view over the Baie des Anges.
Evenings in Grasse are synonymous with contemplation, and from this height, you'll see the Riviera in a whole new light. As night falls, the shoreline of the Bay lights up, the villages become islands of light in the landscape, and the moon is reflected on the Mediterranean. If you’re looking for a romantic evening, this is it.
So take a stroll, have a drink or, if you didn’t make it everywhere during the day, enjoy one of the nighttime tours that perfume shops sometimes offer. Even in summer high season, Grasse remains a town where you can enjoy a certain serenity.
Overnight in Grasse
Day 5 – Cannes
Today, you’ll explore France's most chic city along the Riviera. Cannes is of course much more than its festival. First and foremost, it is the epitome of the Belle Époque and the incredible palaces of the Carlton, Majestic, Martinez and Splendid are impressive reminders of this. The many luxury boutiques are yet another reminder.
Morning
From Grasse, Cannes is just a short 30-minute drive away. Here, the most surprising discovery you can make is not Cannes itself, but rather the nearby Lérins Islands, which are not to be missed.
From the Cannes harbor, take a 15-minute ferry ride to the islands. The first boat leaves at 7.30 AM, and the last one back to Cannes departs from the islands at 6:30 PM. It's a very pleasant crossing and a round-trip ticket will only cost you 17.50 euros.
On the islands, there are two destinations to choose from. You can visti both, of course, but be careful not to run out of time. The island of Sainte-Marguerite, closest to Cannes, is interesting for its royal fort, famous for having housed the most famous of French prisoners: the man in the iron mask, imprisoned on the orders of Louis XIV and whose identity is still unknown to this day.
But my preference is for the island of Saint-Honorat. The very first monastery in the West was founded here in 410 and it's still going strong. On this little 0.37 km² plot of land, you'll find an ancient fortified monastery, ruined chapels, a monastery, vineyards (of course!), and around twenty friendly monks who can be heard singing several times a day.
The island's products are renowned, especially, its wine and liqueurs, which are sold all over the world and served at the tables of the President of the Republic and the Prime Minister.
For lunch, I highly recommend a picnic by the water, rather than going to one of the island’s restaurants. The restaurants here are good but quite expensive, and when you can eat by the sea and enjoy the view, I can’t see a reason to do anything else.
Afternoon
Whenever you’re ready to return from the islands, it's time to explore Cannes itself. Of course, you should begin your visit at the Palais des Festivals. After that, in my opinion, the most interesting thing to do in Cannes is to walk around and soak up the atmosphere.
This is a busy, modern town, whose streets are ill-suited to car traffic, which can be frustrating, especially for residents going about their daily lives. However, the lack of cars means that the town preserves hints of the past, which you can only feel when you discover it on foot. So stick to the areas around the harbor and follow your instincts as you wander.
And wherever you are, be sure to look up constantly! Cannes is notable for its Belle Époque architecture, so always be sure to admire the architecture around you. Spend the afternoon soaking up the soul of this place, visiting its churches and, of course, going shopping (if you feel like it).
Evening
The city takes on an even different look in the evening. Along with Juan-les-Pins, it is one of the Riviera's favorite destinations for young people, and there are many bars and nightclubs on offer, particularly near the Palais des Festivals.
As for the pedestrian zone, it's teeming with people and there are plenty of terraces where you can enjoy a drink or a bite to eat.
Paradoxically, when I'm in Cannes in the evening, I like to eat a burger or tortillas at Ma Nolan's Pub. Maybe this is my way of contrasting with the chic atmosphere of the town.
Whether you're in the mood for a simple meal or something more refined, you'll have no trouble finding what you’re looking for. If fish is your thing, head to the restaurants along the western part of the port.
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Day 6 - Fréjus and Saint-Tropez
The little cape that blocks the view to the west of Cannes is the foot of the Estérel massif, which after the charming village of Théoule-sur-Mer, marks the boundary between two very different parts of the Riviera.
To the east (Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Monaco), you have the best-known part of the chic and touristy Riviera.
To the west, you enter the part of the Riviera whose atmosphere is much closer to Marcel Pagnol's novels. It's the Provence of petanque, pastis, and calanques. This is more traditional, more authentic, and much less visited.
The town of Fréjus perfectly embodies the junction between these two atmospheres.
Morning
There are two possible routes to Fréjus: the one along the seafront and the one through the Estérel massif. Whichever you choose, don't take the motorway though: it would be a waste!
The coastline, made up of surprising red stone, offers some remarkable scenery. Villas are being built all over the place, but the area remains unspoiled and you can still find many places to go for a swim if you feel like it.
As for the inland road, it takes you through a rugged landscape typical of Mediterranean scrubland and a little reminiscent of California. It’s also well worth exploring.
Whichever route you choose, you’ll be in Fréjus fairly quickly.
On arrival, go straight to the historic center. Here, you'll always be halfway between unspoiled local life and the tourist dynamism of this famous town. The people of Provence love to come and swim in Fréjus, which is quieter and more intimate than Cannes and Nice.
The one must-see attraction in town is the Roman amphitheater, which now hosts cultural events and concerts. Fréjus, once known as Forum Julii, was an important metropolis in the Roman Empire, as evidenced by the remains that can be seen all over the town (which will remind those who know it of Rome).
In 1959, the town was hit by a tragedy of exceptional proportions. A 48 million cubic meters dam burst and the water rushed over Fréjus. Astonishingly, the ancient amphitheater was one of the buildings that resisted the deluge and it even diverted part of the torrent. Talk about Roman quality! It goes without saying that the locals love their historic heritage.
After exploring the town, you can have lunch in the historic streets or, if you prefer, by the sea. In the latter case, head over to the area between the port and the old harbor (towards Saint-Raphaël). You'll be able to enjoy a view of the beach from many of the restaurants and you can even choose to have a picnic there if you prefer.
Afternoon
After lunch and perhaps a swim, enjoy the coastline and a stroll along the harbor before hitting the road again. It’s now time to head for Saint-Tropez and its famous parties. Go west on the D559 road and you'll soon be on the Provencal coast.
Theoretically, the journey takes just over an hour, but don't hesitate to take your time. There are plenty of viewpoints and swimming spots along the way. Enjoy them! This route is an opportunity to fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere of Provence.
Before reaching Saint-Tropez, you must stop at the the Pointe des Sardinaux, overlooking the Gulf of Saint-Tropez. This spot has been preserved in a natural state, so take a walk and enjoy the view and the clear water.
Finally, you’ll arrive in Saint-Tropez. Here again, authentic local life happens alongside the most glamorous of atmospheres. Before indulging in the famous nightlife, explore the town.
Stroll around the old port and, above all, visit the citadel to discover the surprising history of this town, which was occupied by the Arabs in the Middle Ages and then for a time was an independent city-State, like Monaco.
The maritime museum (housed in the citadel) will round off your discovery by telling you that Saint-Tropez was also one of the most important ports in the kingdom of France. It was a place of war, trade, and exploration. A far cry from the jet-setting crowd that you’ll find here now.
Evening
Some Tropéziens will tell you that a good evening is spent on the Vieux-Port, where you’ll find bars, restaurants, nightclubs, and of course, atmosphere. Others will tell you that you need to head south of the city to Tahiti and Pampelonne beaches.
Many outdoor parties are held here and you can enjoy beach bars, DJs, sand, and nighttime swimming. It's up to you to choose the atmosphere that you prefer!
For dining, I prefer the harbor area and its fish restaurants. They eat a lot of fish in this part of the Riviera and many restaurants offer menus based on the daily catch, which is a guarantee of quality.
I don't have a favorite place in Saint-Tropez, but here's some advice: always go for family-run restaurants instead of large establishments. That's where you'll find authenticity.
And after dinner, there's nothing to stop you from making your way to the beaches if you want to extend your evening. Of course, they're busiest in summer!
Day 7 - Hyères and its islands
Enough glitter and festivities. On your final day in the Riviera, immerse yourself in one of the most authentic parts of the region. Hyères, its bay, and above all, its islands, are truly enchanting.
Amongst this beautiful Mediterranean landscape, you’ll experience an unspoiled place where you can enjoy the sun and the sea in bliss. One of the islands, that of Port-Cros, even has national park status.
Morning
You’ve probably already guessed, but yes, it's time to head to the islands. Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Le Levant: which to choose? They're all worth it, and once again, you’re in luck: you can go to all of them if you’d like. It’s 24 euros for a round-trip ferry ticket to Porquerolles, and 29 euros for each of the other two.
Like most people, I prefer Port-Cros, which is wild, unspoiled, and welcoming. When here, you'll feel like you've been transported centuries back in time, long before buildings were springing up everywhere.
A visit to the Fort de l'Eminence and the Fortin de la Vigie will reinforce this impression of traveling back in time. Not to mention the views you'll enjoy from these heights.
If you're coming in summer, I'd recommend two things: first, try to arrive fairly early in the morning, before the majority of visitors get here. Second, take the time to prepare your visit to the islands in advance. Many events are organized here, so it’s worth seeing what’s happening during your travel dates and making reservations if necessary.
Finally, don't come without flippers, a mask, and a snorkel. You'll miss out on half the beauty of the landscape - the underwater part – if you don’t have them.
Have lunch directly on Port-Cros or Porquerolles. Both islands have good snack bars and restaurants. The latter again offer excellent seafood. Personally, I prefer a picnic in a quiet, secluded spot by the water. In summer, I know of few pleasures greater than eating a mixed salad and a slice of watermelon on the beach before going for a swim.
As for any trash from your picnic, the islands have plenty of bins, even in their most isolated parts. Everything is well organized to ensure that visitors respect the area. As always, don't forget to take water (at least one liter per person per half-day in summer).
Afternoon
Take your time on the islands, then set off slowly in the direction of Hyères. You should arrive in the late afternoon. Begin your visit with a stroll through the narrow streets. Of course, Hyères is also a place deeply marked by history. The city was founded over 2,500 years ago after all.
It's up to you to plan your visit according to the time you return from the islands. Among other remarkable sites (the castle, the art galleries, etc.), I particularly like the Templar tower, which is very small and can be visited freely. It was one of the commanderies of this famous order of fighting monks.
The Tower has the advantage of being located in the heart of the historic city, on a square occupied by numerous terrace bars. So, grabbing a drink on a terrace is an excellent way to make the transition to the early evening!
All the more so as, in my opinion, the most interesting restaurants in town are also located along the square. Take the time to choose the one that inspires you most, and beware of the exorbitant prices charged by some during the summer period.
Evening
By now you've probably understood that however peaceful a place on the Riviera may be, its nightlife remains vibrant, especially in the warmer months, thanks both to tourism and to the locals taking advantage of the cool night air.
There's no shortage of places to spend the evening in Hyères, and the "Cité Médiévale" (the old town) has the widest choice of bars. However, it would be a shame to miss out on the attractions of the port.
The harbor offers a triple advantage: its typical Mediterranean setting (a small marina located between two beaches), its bars and, above all, its night market. The market is a succession of stalls, crafts, etc. which make the harbor the busiest place in town.
This is only true in summer though, as while the market is held every evening, it only runs from July through August.
In any case, this is a great way to make the most of your last evening on the French Riviera, whether you go for a drink, some shopping, or an evening swim overlooking the islands.
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