Travel Guide to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula, like a giant’s extended limb, reaches out into the sea from the west coast of Iceland, standing tall as if it were a colossal finger, found just north of Reykjavik. Despite its obvious appeal, this expanse of rural landscape is often overlooked by many travelers in their haste to whip around the ring road, or mistaken as an easy day trip from Reykjavik (thanks in large part to day tours offered by companies).
In either case, both these groups will come leave Iceland wishing they’d had more time to explore the peninsula. I still feel that way even though I’ve visited Snæfellsnes more than a few times over the years. It just never seems like enough.
Driving through this area will quickly take you into some awe-inspiring landscapes of ghostly lava fields, rugged shorelines, and a grand range of mountains that lead to the enigmatic volcano and glacier, Snæfellsjökull.
The first time I drove out along its southern shore, I remember almost laughing at just how ridiculously beautiful it all was. The mountains always do it for me, but the coast too is impeccable, a twisting mess of hardened lava and basalt slowly being eroded by the ocean’s waves.
I’ve been here in the depths of winter and on bright summer nights and my only recommendation is that you come here no matter what season it is and what the weather’s like (unless said weather has shut down travel in the country, of course).
The Snafellsnes Peninsula is also a place that has an unmistakable energy about it. There’s tales of Icelandic Sagas, abandoned fishing settlements on the coast, and such proximity to a beautiful glacier as well. There are also theories about UFOs landing here, tales of the glacier enhancing your emotions the closer you are to it, and a belief that this is one of seven great energy wells in the world.
Even New Age gurus will draw a line between the Pyramids of Giza and the North Pole, and the line will dissect Iceland right through the middle of the glacier. Coincidence? Travel here and find out for yourself.
Table of Contents
What is the Snaefellsnes Peninsula?
Photo: Maximilian Dörrbecker (Chumwa), CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is the long arm of countryside that juts out from Iceland’s western coast, just to the north of Reykjavik. Technically it could be considered a part of West Iceland, but it.
A spine of mountains splits the peninsula into two separate sides, culminating at the very tip of the peninsula with Snæfellsjökull, a mystical glacier-topped volcano that is behind the twisted and fascinating landscapes of the national park of the same name.
It has been inhabited since the Vikings first arrived in Iceland, and there are several busy fishing towns along the northern coast of the peninsula. In the past two decades, its proximity to Reykjavik has meant that the peninsula has turned into a popular day trip destination from the capital, although if you ask me that’s not even close to enough time for visiting a fraction of the sights here.
Why visit
For me, Snæfellsnes began as an easy place to take visiting friends and give them an idea of Iceland as a whole. This is, after all, nicknamed “Iceland in Miniature”, which means that it’s got a little bit of everything: lava fields and a stunning coastline, craggy mountains with plenty of waterfalls rushing down their sides, and a beautiful glacier as well.
But as time went on, I began to enjoy the special atmosphere you find on the peninsula. Most will agree, the area just has some sort of magic about it. It was summed up in one sentence by a tour guide friend who told me that “of all the places I show tourists in Iceland, it’s only when we get to Snæfellsnes that they begin asking me how much it costs to buy a home here”.
It’s easy to see why, with such stunning mountains close to an intricate and beautiful coastline, and endless views of the countryside and sea wherever you look.
Of all the landscapes there are to appreciate here, my favorite is those inside the borders of the national park. Snæfellsjökull National Park is the smallest of the three in Iceland but holds some stunning things to see. Covering the very tip of the peninsula, it’s here where you can explore some of Iceland’s zany volcanic landscapes.
Brooding above everything is Snæfellsjökull, whose eruptions over the years have left behind ghostly lava fields laden with moss, black and golden beaches flanked by warped cliffs of basalt, secretive lava caves and explosive craters.
Finally, strung along the northern shore of the peninsula are some pretty-as-a-postcard fishing villages. Stykkishólmur is the prettiest and featured as a shooting location in the film The Secret Life of Walter Mitty.
Prim and colorful houses here dot the landscape, historic buildings left behind by rich Danish trading merchants who set up shop here to take advantage of the bounty of fish and mussels available in Breiðafjörður.
Here too you can catch the ferry to the Westfjords, avoiding the long drive and seeing some beautiful islands along the way.
Where is the Snaeffelsnes Peninsula?
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is in western Iceland, extending about 56 miles (90 kilometers) from the mainland into the Atlantic Ocean. It’s located to the north of Faxaflói Bay, the large body of water that laps at Reykjavik and the Western Coast.
On a clear day, you can even see the Snæfellsjökull volcano from the capital. To the north is the giant Breiðafjörður, separating the peninsula from the Westfjords region.
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula features a mix of coastal areas, a spine of mountains running down the middle, and some fascinating volcanic landscapes, essentially a microcosm of Iceland’s varied terrain.
The regional hub for Snæfellsnes is the town of Stykkishólmur, located on the northern coast of the peninsula, a port town approximately 105 miles (170 kilometers) from Reykjavik. The drive takes about 2 hours and provides an embarrassing amount of drop-dead gorgeous scenery along the way.
Getting here from Reykjavik
Your best bet for exploring the Snafellsnes Peninsula is to rent your own car or campervan. The drive from Reykjavik to Stykkishólmur takes around 2.5 hours, first heading north from the city on Route 1 before branching off onto Route 54.
Like in most regions of Iceland, getting around via public transport isn’t advisable. While there is a bus from Reykjavik to Stykkishólmur, the natural attractions of the peninsula aren’t serviced by any buses, so you’d just be stuck in Stykkishólmur before returning to Reykjavik.
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Best time to visit
Spring (March to May)
Being so close to Reykjavik, I’ve visited the Snafellsnes Peninsula in all seasons. For me, the best time to visit is in Spring, when there is still snow on the mountains for stunning photographs, but the lowland coastal areas are clear and easy to explore.
With the views stretching for miles everywhere you go, it’s also a beautiful chance to see rain and sunlight moving in the distance over the bumpy lava fields.
Temperatures are gradually rising as well, ranging between 30°F to 46°F (-1°C to 8°C), and as always, the hours of daylight are long; by May, there will be about 18 hours of daylight to enjoy.
Summer (June to August)
Summer on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a time of extended daylight and mild temperatures, ranging from 50°F to 59°F (10°C to 15°C). Of course it’s also the busiest time, but it’s surprisingly easy to find yourself alone even this close to Reykjavik.
If you’re worried about crowds, the near-constant daylight of the summer can let you ‘flip’ your schedule and explore at night instead when everyone else is sleeping. While rain showers are still common, they are usually brief.
Autumn (September to November)
Autumn brings cooler temperatures between 36°F to 50°F (2°C and 10°C) and shorter days as the season progresses. The weather can be quite variable, with a mix of rain, wind, and occasional sunny spells.
The fall colors on the peninsula are stunning, especially when the moss-laden lava fields begin to turn orange and red, making it a beautiful time for photography.
It’s also a good time to see the northern lights – your best bet is to stay at a guesthouse somewhere in the countryside and cross your fingers for clear skies and an active aurora.
Winter (November to March)
I also love going to the Snafellsnes Peninsula in the wintertime, when the landscapes are a frosty wonderland and there are no crowds. Expect temperatures between 28°F to 37°F (-2°C and 3°C) and limited daylight hours, restricted to a few hours of twilight.
Weather is also unpredictable with snow, ice, and strong winds, but if you do get lucky with some calmer days, you’ll find that the mix of snow-laden landscapes alongside rosy-pink and gold sunsets are ideal for photography.
Most stops in the national park remain open, including Londrangar and Djúpalónssandur, since they’re just short walks from a parking area.
How long to spend
While you’ll see plenty of tour companies offering to “do” the Snaefellsnes peninsula in a day trip, I find that to truly appreciate this region, you need at least two days.
That gives you a full day to explore the southern shore and a small part of the national park, staying overnight in Arnarstapi or a nearby guesthouse.
Then on day two, you can finish your explorations of the national park and drive along the northern shore, stopping by the towns along the way and ending in Stykkishólmur, where you can choose to catch the ferry onwards to the Westfjords or head elsewhere.
Where to stay - best bases
If you’re driving here from Reykjavik, it makes the most sense to follow the above itinerary and base yourself in Arnarstapi, or somewhere nearby, for the night.
If you’re approaching the northern shore first, due to timings, again it’s best to base yourself just outside the national park’s borders, in the small village of Hellissandur or nearby.
Towns to visit
Stykkishólmur
Stykkishólmur is the little capital of the region, a charming fishing town known for its colorful houses, rich history, and stunning views of Breiðafjörður Bay. If like me, you’re a fan of the film The Secret Life of Walter Mitty starring Ben Stiller, then you’ll also recognize the town as the place where he disembarks the ship before heading to the nearby erupting volcano.
The harbor is a hive of activity, with boat tours departing into the fjord, fishermen returning with their catch, and the large ferry to the Westfjords belching out its horn as it departs for Iceland’s least-visited region.
Photo: Chensiyuan, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Grundarfjörður
Many people, me included, will often pass through Grundarfjörður just to get to Kirkjufell, Iceland’s most photographed mountain. But the town enjoys a gorgeous setting itself, the beauty extending far from Kirkjufell to everything else in the surrounds, from the coast to the interior.
It’s also one of the busier towns on the peninsula, with a handful of cafés and restaurants to choose from, and some beautiful hiking trails heading towards the mountains to the south.
Photo: Chensiyuan, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ólafsvík
Ólafsvík is still very much a fishing town – all it takes is about 5-minute standing around the harbor to realize that. It’s a bustling little place, and a good look into the life of small-town Iceland. It’s also known for its sightings of orca whales off the coast, so you can join whale-watching tours from here.
Photo: Anjali Kiggal, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Arnarstapi
Arnarstapi is a small, picturesque fishing village known for its dramatic coastal cliffs and striking rock formations. Today, it’s turned into a bit of a vacation town for Icelanders, and a bit of a touristy attraction for everyone else. The cliffs here are beautiful, with walking paths heading in either direction (one all the way to the village of Hellnar).
There’s also a large statue of a giant made from shale stones, a homage to the giant Bárður Snæfellsás who lives in the area around the glacier.
A rugged landscape outside Arnastapi. Photo: Chmee2/Valtameri, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Hellissandur
At the very tip of the peninsula on the northern coast is Hellissandur, a working-class fishing town that still relies on the industry today. It’s a great place to visit mostly thanks to its street art, covering warehouses and houses around the town.
Behind the street art was the owner of the Freezer Hostel and Cultural Center, which is in the speck of a village nearby called Rif. He wanted to give tourists a reason to stop and spend some time in the town, and it has worked.
Photo: Chensiyuan, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
What to see and do
1. Hike on Snæfellsjökull
The mystical glacier and volcano that sits at the tip of the peninsula has an unmistakable energy about it. Jules Verne famously wrote about it in The Journey to the Centre of the Earth, where the characters enter through the volcano.
In 1993, a British man declared that he had been contacted by aliens who had told him that on November 5th of that year, they would meet him and all other believers who showed up at the glacier (the aliens never showed up, but over 500 believers gathered there to wait).
There’s no denying that this glacier has a mystical quality about it – an energy – and one of the best ways to get up close is to join a glacier hiking tour onto the ice cap.
2. Hike along the cliffs at Arnarstapi
One of my first experiences outside of Reykjavik when living in Iceland was on the Snafellsnes Peninsula, where I completed this short hike. It was a typically moody day, but the gray skies and steely blue ocean made for dramatic hiking companions along this beautiful stretch of coast.
Here, the lava from eruptions past has spilled into the sea, creating beautiful and craggy cliffs, with amazing views the entire way. It only takes an hour to get from Arnarstapi to Hellnar, the next village along, where a nice café waits with hot coffee and cakes.
Photo: Ilya Grigorik, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Visit the seals at Ytri-Tunga
On the southern coast, there’s a strangely named beach called Ytri-Tunga that has a resident seal population. It’s a nice little stop about halfway along the southern shore, which makes for a good break to stretch your legs before dipping into the southern side of the national park.
Photo: pjt56, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Londrangar Cliffs
Londrangar is the name given to the sea stacks and lava rocks that tumble into the ocean at the southwestern point of the peninsula, inside the national park.
Most people will hop out at the viewing platform and take a few photos before continuing, but few know of the hiking trail that goes all the way to Malariff Lighthouse further along the coast, which is next to the main visitor’s center for the national park.
Photo: Anjali Kiggal, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
5. Djúpalónssandur black sand beach
On the western shore a dirt road descends to Djúpalónssandur black sand beach. It’s a beautiful spot to enjoy the scenery, and on the black sand you’ll even find the scattered remains of an old ship that was wrecked on the rocks offshore. Keep your eyes peeled for the remains of an old fishing hut, as this was once a fishing station of sorts.
The short path between the parking area and the sand also takes you through some very interesting lava formations, and you can also pretend you’re a Viking and try your hand at lifting four huge boulders, each one a different size, that the Vikings used to use when testing their strength.
Photo: TommyBee, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
6. Catch a glimpse of Kirkjufell mountain, Iceland’s most famous peak
Iceland’s most photographed mountain also featured as the ‘Arrowhead Mountain’ on the TV series Game of Thrones, but truth be told it was famous long before that.
Rising from the bay at the edge of Grundarfjörður, it’s immediately striking. The main parking area gives you the money shot: Kirkjufell rising in the background, with the waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss rushing down in the foreground.
For a different view that’s no less rewarding, join one of the kayaking tours that depart from the harbor in Grundarfjörður, and you’ll also get to visit some seals.
Photo: Anjali Kiggal, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Soak in Landbrotalaug hot spring
This must be one of the smallest hot springs in the country – a friend and I squeezed in late one summer’s evening after a day of driving around the peninsula. The two of us just managed to fit, so forget it if there is anyone else here when you arrive unless you want to wait in a queue.
I recommend visiting early in the morning or later at night for the best chance of having it to yourself. And if you do get lucky, it’s a beautifully warm spot to gaze out at all that amazing scenery.
8. Admire the street art in Hellissandur
I’ve already mentioned it above, but it’s so cool to find so many murals in such an unlikely place that it bears repeating. On my first visit to Hellissandur I had no idea that they existed, and stopped at only a couple that you could see from the main road.
It wasn’t until a friend clued me in that I discovered the rest on another trip to the town, covering old warehouses, people’s homes, and everything else. There are over 30 pieces of street art to discover here, and the atmosphere in this quiet town at the tip of the peninsula is something to be experienced.
9. Walk to Grundarfoss waterfall
Another sight that gets overlooked thanks to its proximity to Kirkjufell, AKA Iceland’s most photographed mountain. I only spied this waterfall crashing down from the mountains the second time I drove into town, mostly because my eyes weren’t glued to the windshield on the lookout for Kirkjufell.
Getting to the waterfall requires a bit of a trek across some farmer’s land, but they’ve very kindly marked out a path from the parking area by the side of the main road. It’s a short hike, and worth it when you reach the base of this stunning and large waterfall.
Photo: Bromr, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
10. Catch a live performance at the Freezer Hostel
In Rif, the Freezer Hostel and Cultural Centre is the beating heart of the peninsula; an oddball kind of place that puts on all kinds of crazy performances throughout the year.
From improv theatre to live music and comedy, it’s one of the most well-known venues outside of Reykjavik, and a very, very cool place to soak up some local culture.
11. Saxhóll and Rauðhóll craters
Here, you’ve got another two attractions in Snæfellsjökull National Park, near the northern edge.
Saxhóll is a volcanic crater rising right next to the main road, the most accessible of the many craters that make up the northwest region of the national park. It’s an easy stop to make, with a spiral staircase taking you to the top of the crater shaped from black ash to enjoy the views.
Rauðhóll nearby is less known and less accessible. Getting here requires you venture down an unmarked dirt track to a parking area, from where a short hike takes you to an area of volcanic craters streaked with bright red.
Saxhóll crater. Photo: Zil, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
12. Visit the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum
The first time I ever met my father-in-law, he pulled out a frozen chunk of fermented shark meat from his freezer, sliced me off a bit, and watched as I timidly nibbled at it and tried not to gag. Of course I wasn’t going to back down, but for those who know about Iceland’s traditional food you’ll know this isn’t something that people will crave for dinner.
You can try shark too at the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum, located on a farm between Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur. The family here have caught sharks for over 500 years, although it’s no longer legal so instead they’ve created a museum about the history and tradition of hunting and fermenting shark to survive in the early days.
It’s quite interesting, but of more interest is the historical ambiance of the farm.
13. Enter the Vatnshellir lava cave
Heading inside a lava tunnel is just one of those awesome Icelandic experiences that will exceed your expectations no matter what you’re looking for. I have been inside several (not this one), and especially enjoyed my trip into the tunnel near Húsafell in West Iceland. I imagine you’ll have a similar experience here.
From reports I’ve heard it’s just as beautiful as all the others, showcasing the colors left behind after molten lava has drained away back into the earth. Plus, its connection to the Snæfellsjökull glacier probably means that this spot has a particular energy about it as well.
14. Snap some pictures at Búðakirkja church
Another photogenic spot on the peninsula is Búðakirkja, a small church made from black wood on the southern shore just outside the national park.
When backdropped by the glacier and snowy mountains, it makes for an incredible photo, and the area is also quite nice, with long grass waving in the wind and a small golden beach at the shore.
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My suggested 2-day itinerary
Day 1 – The southern shore & Snæfellsjökull National Park
Set out north from Reykjavik, veering off the ring road just after the town of Borgarnes. As you near the beginning of the peninsula, you’ll spy the mountain range that cuts down the middle, separating the southern shore and the north coast.
Between the road and the coast to the west rises a large crater called Eldborg, presenting a great opportunity to stretch your legs on a 90-minute return walk.
From there, the southern shore takes you past huge swathes of country given over to farms, where you’ll see horses in paddocks and sheep with their lambs if it’s spring.
Stop by Búðakirkja to see Iceland’s only black church framed by the mountains and glacier behind, and then clamber your way through the Rauðfeldsgjá gorge as it cuts into the mountains separating the north from south.
Then, the village of Arnarstapi and Hellnar, separated by about an hour’s worth of coastline that’s perfect for walking, with twisted basalt arches, sea caves, and thousands of nesting birds.
Continuing on, you can now dip into the national park, driving first to Londrangar Cliffs, where a viewing platform takes in the towering lava rocks as they spill into the ocean, in summer birds flocking on the craggy outcrops.
A bit further along the road, a detour takes you to Djúpalónssandur, a black sand beach facing west and an ideal spot to watch the sunset.
Head back to Arnarstapi for the night.
Day 2 – Snæfellsjökull National Park & the north shore
Start out early on your second day and venture into the Snæfellsjökull National Park again, this time driving straight towards the pair of volcanic craters, Saxhóll and Rauðhóll. On the northern coast is the golden sand beach of Skarðsvík, flanked by black cliffs.
From here, you can also follow some dirt tracks to the ends of the peninsula, where bright orange lighthouses provide nice spots to admire the cliffs and crashing sea below.
Next up is the northern shore; make a beeline for Kirkjufell Mountain to get that classic photo or join a kayaking tour if you want to get a different angle.
Then, drive onward to Stykkishólmur, dotted with historic wooden houses, brightly painted in prim reds, blues, yellows, and greens. The spit of land on the other side of the harbor makes for a good place to watch as the ferry sails off into Breiðafjörður, making the crossing to the Westfjords. If you’re not on it, then it’s about a 2-hour drive back to Reykjavik.
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