A Local’s Guide to Travel in Cannes, France
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It's hard to mention Cannes without our imaginations being totally caught up in the stereotypical images that accompany the city. Of course, we immediately think of the film festival, but we also tend to picture the town as being nothing more than an old Belle Epoque center, a sort of black-and-white postcard that transports us back in time to a different era. It’s a charming image, yes, but an old, outdated, and rather limited one.
That may be what everyone knows about Cannes, and although it’s far from the full picture, there is certainly some truth to it. A stroll along the seafront (the famous Croisette) past the rows of gorgeous luxury hotels will genuinely make you feel as if you’ve returned to the past and are walking through a more stately, elegant era.
Of course, that’s if you’re willing to ignore the cars whizzing by you - practical but inelegant replacements for the horse-drawn carriages of yesteryear that used to transport the wealthy international clientele who came here to spend the winter.
But that's just one side to Cannes, of course, and the locals know that this is a modern and multifaceted city that rewards visitors equally whether they come to enjoy the peace and quiet of the nearby green spaces and coastline, or if they’ve arrived to party and experience the atmosphere of the bars, clubs, fireworks, festivals, and never-ending summer nights.
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Where is Cannes?
Cannes, located in the far southeast of France, is a coastal city of around 75,000 people and one of the primary destinations along the French Riviera. About 900 kilometers south of Paris, the French capital, the city lies tucked between the Mediterranean Sea and the Alps, rising just behind it.
Nice is about 30 kilometers to Cannes’ east, while Marseille 170 kilometers to the west.
Why visit
There are two primary reasons to visit Cannes: the first is that, due to its central location along the Riviera, it’s a natural stop on any trip along the Côte d’Azure. You’re almost certain to pass by at some point during your travels, so why wouldn’t you make at least a quick stop in this lovely old town?
The second reason to come here is that every visitor to the Riviera should discover the real Cannes, and see how it both aligns with and differs from its international reputation as a vacation hotspot for the rich and famous. Cannes is undoubtedly glamorous and the town has no shortage of entertainment, from restaurants and bars to nightclubs and famous casinos, as well as a regular schedule of interesting events.
But it’s also a real place where real people live, and it’s much more than just the host city for a famous film festival and a collection of luxury shops, hotels, clubs, and restaurants. And the only way you’ll discover this other side of Cannes is by spending some time here and exploring a bit off the beaten path.
Just know that your experience in town will be very different depending on whether you come during the festive and busy summer days, or in the cooler times of year, when the city has a pleasant tranquility and a much more local feel. Both periods are highly recommended as Cannes is lovely no matter when you come.
And don’t make the mistake of thinking this town is a tourist trap: the inhabitants of the surrounding villages and small towns enjoy Cannes just as much as anyone else, and they often debate whether their Friday evening will be spent in Cannes, Antibes or Nice.
How to get here
Owing to its immense popularity, it should come as no surprise that Cannes is well served by a variety of transit connections and is quite easy to get to.
The city is within easy reach of Nice’s large international airport, not too far from Marseille, and its train station is served by the high-speed TGV rail, meaning that overland travel to other destinations throughout France is often quite quick and easy.
Arriving by air
Depending on where you’re coming from and the frequency and cost of flights, you’ll likely be best off flying into either Marseille or Nice. Marseille is about 100 miles to the west, whereas Nice is only about 15 miles to Cannes’ east, and both airports offer regular direct flights with a host of destinations throughout Europe and the world.
There are also often many low-cost flights between Paris and both of these airports, so it could make sense to fly into Paris and then catch an onward flight to either Marseille or Nice.
Regardless of which airport you fly into, you can easily reach Cannes by train from either city. There are multiple trains connecting these destinations every hour all throughout the day, and a nice bonus if you arrive to Nice is that the train passes almost directly by the airport - quite handy.
Arriving by train
The high-speed TGV train that links Paris, Lyon, Marseille, Aix-en-Provence, and Nice obviously passes through Cannes, making getting here by train from any of those cities quite quick and comfortable. ‘
The train journey from Paris is a very comfortable and pleasant trip that takes just under 5 hours. There are usually multiple departures per day, with a few in each of the morning, afternoon and evening.
From Marseille, the journey to Cannes takes 2 hours, while can be reached in just over half an hour.
And here’s a quick note about the train: if you’re arriving from the west, try to sit on the right-hand side of the train so that you have the best view of the gorgeous coastline. If you're arriving from the east, obviously do the opposite. It would be a shame to miss that view.
Arriving from Italy
Getting here from Italy couldn't be easier. If you're traveling by train, Ventimiglia (the Italian border town) has a fairly well-organized timetable, which makes it so that you can seamlessly hop from an Italian train to a French one and continue your journey to Cannes.
Allow just over 1.5 hours for the trip (the border is 40 miles away from Cannes).
By car, it's just as easy, thanks to the motorway, which will get you there in just over an hour. The seaside road is far more picturesque, and it’s the route that I would recommend, but if you take it, be prepared to get stuck in some traffic jams from Nice onwards.
Transportation and getting around
Once you’ve arrived to Cannes (and the Riviera in general), your transport options are pretty good. All the major cities and towns along the coast are connected by train, with regular service traveling between them all throughout the day. If you’re mostly planning to stick to the main towns, the train is extremely convenient and quite affordable.
There are also buses that will take you to some smaller towns both on and off the coast, but these don’t always run very frequently, so if you’re relying on them for a daily itinerary with multiple stops, you will lose a lot of time.
So, if you want to get up into the hinterland to visit little villages away from the coast (some of which are splendid), or if you want to hop around to the beaches outside of the cities, you will really need to have your own car.
Renting a car
Cannes actually has a decent number of both international and local rental agencies, so as long as you aren’t coming in peak high season, you can usually actually find a rental right in town. That said, it will be more expensive to rent here than in a larger city.
For the most selection of cars and companies, you’ll want to rent your car in either Nice or Marseille, which have the widest selection of cars and companies. If you want to save some money, be sure to look at rentals in either cities’ centers rather than at just the airports (which is often more expensive).
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
When to visit
Looking back along the Croisette from Square du 8 Mai 1945. Photo:
Txllxt TxllxT, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Cannes enjoys a relatively mild climate all year-round, with hot summers, but otherwise rather pleasant, moderate weather throughout the spring, fall, and winter.
The energy and atmosphere varies greatly here depending on the time of year, but every face of Cannes has its charming characteristics and unique qualities that make a visit worthwhile.
Visiting in spring and summer
All throughout southern France, the warmest part of the ocuntry, spring is a very pleasant time of year. Beginning by late March, it's warm enough to take dips into the sea, and in the later parts of the spring, the infrequent but intense rains have essentially entirely come to an end.
This is when outdoor activities really start up again and the tourists begin to arrive. The city comes alive, the terraces multiply, and the evenings stretch later and later.
It's also worth noting that May is typically when the Cannes Film Festival takes place, and this is a very special time for the city. During the festival, Cannes becomes the center of worldwide media attention, with global stars arriving en masse and the atmosphere becomes truly electric.
Moving into the summer, this is when the weather really starts to heat up, the sea reaches very pleasantly warm temperatures, and a wide variety of events takes place almost every day. The events season starts roughly with the Festival and the horse show (Cannes was and still is a very bourgeois town!), which is at the beginning of June. For summer happenings, they are mostly staged right along the coast, with open-air shows and concerts beside the sea.
There will be crowds of local and foreign visitors everywhere you go, and being the busiest time of year, the prices for accommodation will be at their highest, and everything from hotels to restaurants and tours will book out well in advance. So always reserve ahead if you’re planning a summer visit.
Despite the crowds and higher prices, summer is the best time to enjoy the widest choice of activities, from swimming to techno concerts and nature walks. Not forgetting, of course, that this is when the surrounding countryside comes into its fullest bloom, meaning that the forests, mountains, and parks are all verdant and lovely at this time.
Visiting in fall and winter
If you've just read what I've written about the warmer seasons, you're probably thinking that there's no point visiting Cannes in autumn and winter. But that is definitely not true, and an off-season trip here is a great opportunity to discover the town at its most authentic (and most “affordable” - as much as Cannes is ever affordable).
First, Cannes enjoys a lovely climate all throughout the year, and the fall and winter are very pleasant. The fall is of course a bit warmer, and you can enjoy both the sea and the surrounding countryside without the heat of the baking summer sun.
And you shouldn't think of Cannes as being asleep until the start of the Festival (again, that’s usually in mid-May): rather, the city simply returns to a more normal rhythm. Its restaurants, casinos, and nightclubs will still be very busy, but you’ll find mostly locals rather than foreign tourists. The city center meanwhile, is an agglomeration of shops ranging from the most popular to the most luxurious and it's never empty.
Outside of the tourist season, you also have the advantage that the restaurants and shops that only cater to tourists will be mostly closed, meaning that it’s much easier to avoid tourist traps and find the truly interesting local places.
Coming during the quiet season is therefore an opportunity to meet Cannes without its makeup on, and to enjoy its authenticity and its streets without being overwhelmed by a crush of vacationers.
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How long to spend
Whether you come in the height of summer or the depths of winter, you'll need to spend at least 2 days in Cannes in order to make the most of the town’s attractions and to experience its lively evenings.
Day 1
As soon as you arrive, you should start by discovering the town’s center: the main points of interest are concentrated around the Vieux Port (it's easy to find: straight ahead from the train station) and the Croisette, the city’s seaside promenade.
Bear this in mind: if there's one city on the Riviera that's not car-friendly, it's Cannes. Traffic on the many one-way streets is truly a punishment, so if you arrive by car, find a car park on the outskirts and do your whole visit on foot. Distances are short anyway.
So, head first to the Vieux Port, which is about a 15-minutes’ walk from the train station. Some of the sights to check out here are the marina (you’ll be shocked by the number of gorgeous sailboats and yachts), the 16th century Notre-Dame d'Espérance church, which sits atop Suquet Hill (the still-lovely original historic center) and offers great views, the Marché Forville, which sells flowers, produce, and other local goods, and the Midi Beach. Expect to spend a couple of hours wandering around and enjoying the architecture and atmosphere.
Whenever you’re ready, why not go for a stroll by the sea along the Croisette? The entire area between the port, the Croisette, and the railway station is aptly named the “Centre-Croisette”, and it’s the heart of the city.
You’ll immediately see the Casino Barriere Le Croisette, followed by the Palais des Festivals (the convention center), and will continue along the beach passing by beach clubs, restaurants, cafes, casinos, and luxurious 5-star hotels. This is the main thoroughfare of the city, and it’s always busy and filled with energy and life.
It’s about a 2.5 kilometer walk all the way out to the Square de Verdun at the far end of the promenade. Of course, you can also dip off the coast and head into the adjacent side streets at any point.
If it’s a hot day, you can of course also spend a few hours lazing on the beach and enjoying the Riviera for what it does best: elegance, leisure, and the sea!
In the evening, these same areas are the busiest and it’s where I’d recommend you grab dinner and enjoy the nightlife. There’s something for all tastes, so you can find everything from late-night clubs to quiet little bars and cafes.
Day 2
Since you’ll have seen much of what the city itself has to offer yesterday, you can now discover (or rediscover - if you’ve been traveling here for a few days already) another aspect of the Riviera in general and Cannes in particular: idleness and nature. Today, you’re off to the glorious Lérins islands, just off the coast of Cannes.
I suggest you wake up early in the morning and get an early start so that you can make the most of the day. Pack water, snacks, and your bathing suit (if the season is right), and take the water taxi to the Lérins island.
You can visit both islands in a single day, but if you prefer to go to just one, then it should be Saint-Honorat. There's no fixed season for visiting the islands, so I think this should be your plan regardless of when you’re here. In summer, the islands will be crowded and lively, and you can swim freely and enjoy the beach. In winter, the weather will still be pleasant and although it may be too cold to swim, the islands are much more intimate during these months.
You can spend either the morning or the whole day on the islands, depending on what you fancy. Walks, swimming (?) and panoramic views are all on the agenda.
For lunch, I think a picnic on one of the islands is ideal. Alternatively, you can return to Cannes a bit earlier to extend your discovery of the city and start some new activity in the early afternoon.
After enjoying the fresh air of the islands, whenever you make it back to Cannes, it could be time to go shopping: the Centre-Croisette district is a great place to shop and is well worth a visit if you're looking to pick some things up.
However, if you're still in the mood for space and nature, then head to Théoule-sur-Mer, just a short train ride west of Cannes. It’s the perfect place for a stroll, an ice cream by the sea, and another swim.
Where to stay
Unsurprisingly, the overwhelming majority of hotels in Cannes are located in the areas we have already discussed - the Vieux Port and along the Croisette -.
The rest of the city is much more residential and far less picturesque. However, there are a few good places to stay around the center, particularly to the east and north-east of the train station: in this area, which is often planted with trees and has a fairly historic urban layout (and is therefore quite pleasant to live in), you'll find establishments that are spared the night-time hustle and bustle of the tourist areas and which offer the best quality of service at a slightly lower price than their rivals closer to the sea.
More moderately priced hotels around the train station (a more residential area)
As the Riviera slopes steeply towards the sea, you will often be able to enjoy a view even if you choose a hotel far from the coast. However, if having your feet (almost) in the water is important to you, then you'll find plenty of options along the seafront.
Luxury hotels along the Croisette (seaside promenade)
Cannes is also, of course, home to world-famous luxury hotels: the famous ‘palaces’. All along the Croisette, you'll find some of the best-known:
Hotel Barrière Le Majestic
The Carlton
Hotel Martinez
Hotel Miramar
The Marriott (a more recent construction)
These are magnificent places, but they come at a price: over $500 or even $1,000 USD a night.
What to see and do in Cannes
Day or night, intimate or festive, you can find everything you need in Cannes. Here are some of what I consider to be the top sights and things to do in town:
1. Enjoy a walk along the seafront
A stroll along the seaside Croisette promenade will probably be the first thing you want to do when you arrive, even if it's raining (but that would be really unlucky). As a historic holiday resort, Cannes naturally looks out to the sea and it has a lovely coastline.
The most beautiful hotels sit almost in the water and face the sea, and are strewn along the Croisette. Here, you’ll find a wide green promenade, a welcoming beach and series of beach clubs, restaurants, and bars, and magnificent views of the sea and the Lérins islands.
Many of the streets of Cannes seem to lead down to the sea, and this is in part because being at the foot of the Alps, the topography naturally ‘slopes down’.
Cannes' coastline is actually divided into several parts, each of which is worth getting to know. Let's take the Palais des Festivals as our reference point: it couldn't be simpler, as you can get there directly from the train station, heading towards the sea.
To the east of the Palais, towards Antibes, is the famous Croisette. If you follow it, you'll come to the Pointe Croisette, at the end of which is the Cap Croisette. It's hard to get lost with names like these... Continuing eastwards would be a nice walk towards Golfe-Juan and Antibes, but it would take you away from Cannes.
Level with the Palais is the Vieux Port (the Old Port). If you head west past it, after enjoying the view and if you haven't been distracted by the many restaurants and bars, you'll pass the hill overlooking the harbour (the Suquet hill: more on that later). Here, you are in the third coastal zone, the Plage du Midi: a very long beach (1.25 miles: that's a long stretch for such a rocky Mediterranean coastline) of fine sand that is the city's most popular swimming spot.
A walk in this direction would take you out of Cannes and on to Mandelieu and Théoule-sur-Mer (more on that later too).
Photo: Gilbert Bochenek, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Check out the Palais des Festivals
The other must-see. But it's important to understand that this place, mythical as it is, is just a convention centre. Events are held there throughout the year, and it is obviously not devoted exclusively to cinema. Guided tours are available for 6 euros per person.
Naturally, if you come at the time of the festival, you can join the thousands of visitors who make the trip to see the films. But beware: you'll be competing with enthusiasts who arrive before dawn to find the best spots and, with the crowds, it's not always easy to enjoy the show.
Photo: Timantha102938, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Climb up Suquet Hill and explore the neighborhood
Last but not least, any exploration of Cannes will inevitably pass by this hill, sometimes called Mont-Chevalier (Knight Hill - a very distinguished name indeed). This is the historic, medieval center of town, and it’s still home to some fortifications and myriad typical Provençal houses, as well as a magnificent view over the Bay of Cannes (also known as the Gulf of La Napoule: a less distinguished name, but worth knowing).
Along with wandering the narrow streets to your heart's content, don't miss the district's two major heritage sites: the Musée des Explorations du Monde (if you're interested in the superb collections of primitive art from the seven continents) and the Church of Notre-Dame-d'Espérance, a 16th-century building that has the triple advantage of being beautiful to visit, offering one of the finest views of the bay, and being even more beautiful when lit up at night.
Suquet Hhill and district. Photo: Alistair Cunningham, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Explore the markets
A good way to get a feel for the dynamism of local life is to visit the markets. You'll see that Cannes also lives to the unchanging rhythm of the days and seasons, as do its residents, who go to the market every day.
You'll find the Forville market between the Vieux Port and the Suquet hill and the Gambetta market under the railway station: these are the two big central markets in Cannes, open in the mornings from Tuesday to Saturday (and even on Mondays in July and August). Fruit, vegetables, meat and, of course, fish are all on offer, along with flowers, crafts, specialities and other fine products.
5. Spend time with the monks on the Lérins’ Islands
One word: unmissable. And perhaps another: unforgettable. You won't fail to notice that the bay of Cannes is occupied by two islands: the larger and closer is Sainte-Marguerite, and the smaller but further away is Saint-Honorat. Both are known as the Lérins Islands.
Water taxis can take you to either island all throughout the day from the Vieux Port. The fare is high (between €9 and €17 for minors, €19 for adults, with a slightly reduced fare if the ticket is bought online), but the trip is well worth it. The two islands will immerse you in a natural, wild and intimate atmosphere, each in a different style.
Sainte-Marguerite is interesting because of its size, making it all the easier to find places to swim in summer. It's worth noting that the coastline of both islands is almost completely wild: so many possibilities!
As well as offering some very pleasant walks, the island is also the perfect place to visit the Royal Fort and the Iron Mask Museum, which offer superb views over Cannes.
Saint-Honorat is home to the oldest community of monks in Europe (since the late 4th century)... and it's still going strong today. The 21 monks who currently live in the island's abbey are famous as much for their wine (which is served at the Elysée Palace) as for their friendliness and warm welcome.
Yes, you can meet them on the island and attend their services (during which they sing beautifully). As for the island itself, it offers a walk in the wilderness and a hundred swimming spots. And of course, the abbey has a shop where you can buy the monks' wares.
The abbey on Saint-Honorat island
6. Take the train to Théoule-sur-Mer
Looking for another charming place to stroll (and swim) in a more intimate setting than Cannes? Then take the train heading in the direction of Fréjus and get off at the second stop: Théoule-sur-Mer.
This tiny seaside town at the western end of the Bay of Cannes is a favorite swimming spot for the well-informed. A few restaurants, ice-cream parlors, and a long beach whose waters are filled with fish (an underwater nature reserve starts at the end of the beach) make it the perfect place for a relaxing moment or a picnic with your feet in the water.
If you want to simply enjoy the seaside and the peace and quiet of a town that retains its human scale, this is the place to do it.
Théoule-sur-Mer. Photo: Florian Pépellin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Enjoy the nightlife
Cannes is considered by locals to be one of the best places in the Riviera to spend an evening, and accordingly, there are countless options with all types of atmospheres for you to spend an evening.
The area between the Vieux Port and the railway station is the main tourist hub, so you'll find bars of all kinds, from the most classic pubs to dance bars.
In summer, the festivities are always closer to the sea. I'm thinking of course of the fireworks festival: half a dozen performances spread over July and August. It attracts a lot of people and, of course, it's free.
There are also plenty of open-air choices: various private venues offer them, and the best-known are the Plages Electroniques (Electronic Beaches), held at the Palais des Festivals at the end of July. This time, there's no such thing as free entry: the pass costs over 60 euros a day.
Finally, if you're a fan of casinos, don't forget that this town was one of the jewels in the Riviera’s “casino crown”, and it has kept the tradition very much alive. All along the Croisette, several establishments offer a wide range of games and services.
The fireworks festival in Cannes
8. Do some shopping
By now, you’ve probably understood that the nerve center of Cannes is the Vieux Port or, to be more precise, the Centre-Croisette, the town's busiest area. As well as countless restaurants, bars, and cafes, there are dozens of shops ranging from the most popular to the most luxurious.
Car traffic is very limited here as the pavement is wide and the road narrow, so the area is virtually pedestrianized (remember how unsuitable Cannes is for cars).
It's the perfect place to do all your shopping, especially for clothes and other fashion items. Be careful, though, as the restaurants here are often touristy and therefore less authentic (and also just not very good).
9. Discover the wonders of the Estérel massif
The Estérel massif is the group of mountains you see jutting out into the sea to the west of Cannes, near Théoule-sur-Mer. Nearly 80,000 acres of largely wild scrubland, it's the perfect place to escape from the crowds and to enjoy a protected natural environment.
You don't even have to stop there to enjoy it: if you're driving, don't hesitate to take one of the two tourist routes that start in Théoule-sur-Mer and head toward Fréjus (follow the signs): there’s the one that crosses the massif and takes you through valleys and forests, or the one along the seafront, which will take you to a coastline that's very different from the rest of the Riviera, made up of unusual red rocks that plunge into the sea and offer plenty of swimming spots.
Finally, if you choose to explore further, the massif offers a host of hiking, mountain biking, and trekking trails, at the end of which an extraordinary panorama will be your reward.
Photo: Moreau.henri, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
10. Go swimming in Saint-Cassien Lake
Another must-see natural spot, Saint-Cassien Lake, a vast 1,000-acre lake in the north of the Estérel massif, is a meeting place for swimmers looking for a very tranquil place to relax, as well as calm waters far from the crowds of the seaside.
The few buildings that surround the lake do nothing to limit the impression of being isolated in the heart of Provençal nature, which is exactly what you’ll be.
While there is bus service from Cannes (bus 832, near the train station), the easiest way to get there is to drive yourself. However you come, it's well worth the trip, as both the journey and the lake offer you a taste of the ‘real’ Riviera, where the dry, austere nature plunges you into the simplicity of local life before population growth and tourism massively urbanized the region.
Here, you can relax, swim, enjoy a picnic, do some kayaking and other water sports, and even go riding on horseback.
Sanit-Cassien Lake. Photo: KoS, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Restaurants & dining
You wold be correct if you’ve guessed that the majority of Cannes’ restaurant are found in the center. There are almost too many to choose from, offering a wide range of cuisines, both local and international.
However, being a touristic area within a highly touristed town and region, it’s obviously important to choose carefully if you want to find a place that’s not a tourist trap and serves actually good, authentic food.
My recommendation is to concentrate on authentic establishments with a real speciality. For example, most good seafood restaurants are logically located in front of the quays of the Vieux Port, at the foot of Suquet Hill.
Restaurants serving local specialities should also be considered, depending on their reputation. There are plenty of them, including Pastis, Angle des Saveurs, and the beautiful Auberge Provençale da Bouttau, on Suquet Hill.
Fun fact: for a simple dinner in a fun environment (possibly in front of a rugby match), you should know that one of the local institutions is not at all Provençal: Ma Nolan's Pub in Centre-Croisette district, is an English-speaking place where you know you'll always find a burger to fill your stomach and a beer to recover from the day. You would be very much mistaken if you took it for a place that only tourists eat at!
Special point: note the existence of a reputable restaurant on the island of Saint-Honorat. Due to its gorgeous island location, La Tonnelle is obviously a little pricey (minimum of €25 per dish), but the service and quality are good, and, of course, the view is unbeatable. Worth considering if you're not keen on the idea of a waterside picnic when visiting the islands.
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