A Local's Guide to Travel in the French Riviera
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If the French Riviera is famous for anything, it is surely for its glamour.
But what gave it that reputation? Is it the Cannes Film Festival, where all the movie stars meet on the most glamorous red carpet of them all? Or is it the luxurious hotels along the Promenade des Anglais in Nice where everyone from Arab sheiks and business moguls to celebrities and royals have stayed?
Maybe it’s instead due to all the gorgeous old villas and mansions from another era that dot the coast. Or perhaps it’s the fantastic microclimate which allowed avid gardeners to plant tropical plants from all over the world, creating botanical gardens that beautifully complement the villas.
It could also be that the presence of a prince, a princess, and a palace in Monaco has something to do with it.
In the end, it’s surely a combination of all of these things, and more. The light alone here is the stuff of magic. Now throw in those sandy beaches, charming coves, and an impossibly blue sea and it starts to become very clear why the French Riviera’s draw never fades.
Between the sunlight, the sea, the mountains, and a clutch of impossibly elegant hilltop towns, the Côte D’Azur is France’s ultimate beach destination. Come see it for yourself!
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Where is the French Riviera
French Riviera outlined in red. Photo: France location map.svg {NordNordWest derivative work: ויקיג'אנקי, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The French Riviera is one of those dreamy destinations that everyone has heard of, but few people actually know exactly what and where it is.
Also known as Côte d’Azur, it is not an administrative region of France, like Alsace or Burgundy, for example. Rather, it is a very special informal area inside of the region of Provence.
The name was first given in 1887 by a French writer, who was referring to the azure color of the sea, as he travelled along the coastline from Marseille to Genoa.
The Riviera as it is defined today is a very thin strip of coast that stretches along most of southeast France. However, because it is not an actual region, its borders are not totally clear.
On the east, the French Riviera stops at the Italian border, just outside the lovely town of Menton. On the south the border is easy - it’s the Mediterranean sea. And its border to the north, defining how far inland the Riviera goes, is usually marked by the Mritim Alps mountains.
For the western border there is a bit of disagreement, with most saying that the Riviera ends at the town of Saint-Tropez. But others will claim it continues to the port city of Toulon.
As always in France, we don’t all agree and where exactly the French Riviera starts and ends is a permanent topic of debate!
A brief history of the Riviera
As part of the Provence region and immediately on the border with Italy, the French Riviera has a history that goes back as far as the ancient Greeks and Romans. Evidence of these civilizations’ presence here can still be seen in many ruins.
But most of the past that is left for us to admire comes from the Middle Ages and the region is full of castles, stone villages, and pretty churches from this period. Constant wars between feudal lords in the region means that there are many castles and fortresses left!
Because of the region’s special microclimate which ensures mild winters, already as early as the late 1700s the upper classes from England would come here in the winter enjoy the areas thermal baths and spas.
With the development of rail connections in the middle of the 1800’s, Russians and other European aristocrats began to join the British here, all looking to escape their own cold winters.
But it was not until the period between the first two world wars, 1920 - 1940, that the French Riviera began to become the established European destination for the rich and famous.
What were previously mostly small, unassuming towns began to develop to accommodate all these visiting vacationers and places like Antibes, Juan-les-Pins, Menton, Monaco, Nice, Cannes, and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat all saw a construction boom of luxurious hotels, palaces, and casinos aimed at attracting rich clients. Beautiful villas and vacation homes also started to be built along the coastline during La Belle Epoque.
Best time to visit
As this part of France is famed for its 300+ days of sun per year, it’s obvious why it’s become such an attractive place. Still, some periods of the year are better than others for visiting and some are best avoided outright.
High season (summer)
High season in the French Riviera officially runs from July thru August, but it’s really from June 1st to the middle of September. These 3-3.5 months (June through early September) are the most expensive time of year to visit and also the most crowded. Many towns and beaches become overrun and it’s not very relaxing to be here.
Add to this picture extreme heat, crowded beaches, long lines, and the real likelihood of getting turned away from full restaurants and you do not wind up with such a paradisiacal vacation.
Low season (winter)
I would also suggest avoiding winter - from mid November November to the middle of February the weather is not ideal. This is the coldest period of the year and although the Riviera is a mostly frost-free region, strong cold winds can make going out unpleasant.
If you’re up for a mid winter visit, know that there are seasonal festivals already starting in the middle of February, like the lemon festival in Menton. You can also enjoy the mimosa flowers which bloom along the coast then.
Shoulder season (spring/fall)
The French Riviera is so popular that there is not really a low season anymore, but you do have fewer crowds in the shoulder season periods of late winter/spring and fall.
For me, the best time to visit the Riviera is in these shoulder season periods of mid-spring and mid-fall. Even so, do not expect to find no crowds and no one else around. There will be plenty of other visitors.
In spring, from March the temperatures begin to become pleasant, the threat of rain has almost passed, and things start opening up.
Likewise, the fall presents fewer crowds, more reasonable prices, and still good weather for swimming, sailing, hiking, and anything else you’d like to do.
In autumn, there is a sailing event in Saint-Tropez at the end of September where you can admire both old and modern boats while inland the vines and grapes take on their beautiful fall colors.
Swimming season runs from May through September, there is always something to do, and the light is great from early spring through late fall, so there really is no bad time to visit.
How long to spend on the Riviera
With so many fabulous things to see, do, and experience, a very quick visit to the French Riviera would be a shame. If you only come for a few days, you won’t get to experience the coast the right way.
7 days - at the very least!
To experience the French Riviera and not spend all your time rushing, you need at least a week. A 7-day stay might seem long, but that’s really the minimum in order to get a good feel for the region.
There is simply so much to explore: great crafts and artisan products, museums and exhibitions, delightful architecture and historic mansions, gardens, world class beaches, historic towns, wonderful local markets, and some of the best food and wine in France.
With a week, you’ll be able to do the essential things and visit some of the “must-dos”, but know that it still won’t be enough time to do everything and you’ll have some busy days.
10-14 days is ideal though…
If you have the time, 10-14 days would really let you discover the region in style. More time will let you spend your days leisurely, which is part of the appeal of this part of France.
With two weeks, you can combine sightseeing with afternoons on the beach, sailing excursions, or island hopping, allowing you to finish your trip with the sensation that you’ve really seen the entire French Riviera.
Where to stay
Towns and cities of the French Riviera. Photo: OpenStreetMap data: OpenStreetMap contributors SRTM Daten: NASA Rendering: Pechristener, ODbL, via Wikimedia Commons
For a short stay - Nice & surrounding area
If you are coming for a short stay, I would recommend choosing accommodation around the city of Nice, as it’s situated less than an hour’s drive from most places you’ll want to visit. It will also give you easy access to both the highway and the lovely national road.
For longer stays - choose 2 bases, 1 in the east, 1 in the west
If you’ll be coming to the French Riviera for a longer stay (one week or more), I’d suggest locating yourself around Nice for a few days and then somewhere further west, like Antibes for example.
Staying around Antibes lets you visit towns like Saint-Raphaël, Fréjus, and Saint-Tropez, which are on the west side of the Côte d’Azur.
Choosing two bases will minimize packing and unpacking while still making sure that day trips will only be short drives.
The Riviera is busy year round, so make sure to book your accommodation well in advance no matter when you’re coming.
Getting to the French Riviera
The runway at Nice-Côte d’Azur airport. Photo: trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The main airport for the French Riviera is Nice-Côte d’Azur airport in Nice.
It is an international airport with direct flights to many French cities, Europe’s main capitals, the Middle East, Northern Africa, and the USA & Canada.
In the USA you have direct flights to Nice every day from JFK and Newark airports in the New York Metro area and from Atlanta.
If you can’t get a direct flight or will be visiting Paris before the Riviera, there are 24 flights per day from Charles de Gaulle and Paris-Orly airport, so you won’t have any problem finding a domestic flight.
If coming from elsewhere in Europe, most capital cities and large metropolises have direct flights to Nice.
The airport is right on the sea to the west of the city. The A8 highway, the main one here that runs the coast, is adjacent to the airport so getting to your destination after landing is always a breeze. Buses and taxis are readily available from the airport, or you can head into Nice to get even more connections to wherever you are going on the coast.
If you’re staying in Nice itself, there is a tram that runs from the airport to the city center, completing the journey in about 30 minutes.
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Getting around the French Riviera
Renting a car
The ideal way to get around the French Riviera is by car. I would strongly suggest you rent one.
This is an area full of small roads and little villages, and buses and trains won’t take you to many places that you’ll want to visit. Also, driving the coastal route can be very enjoyable and the car will give you the flexibility to make stops all along your routes.
The easiest place to get your rental car is directly at the airport in Nice. You have 7 of the world’s main rental car company chains located on the airport grounds as well as many local and secondary options which may be a bit cheaper.
To rent a car you need an international driving license and a credit card. You may not be asked for the IDL, but you should have it just in case as it is legally required. If you don’t have a credit card, you may find a company that will let you rent with a debit card, but that is very unlikely.
Where to find a car rental
You have all the big international companies in France (and the Riviera) as well as lots of smaller, local companies.
For the most selection of cars and companies, renting your car in Nice is always a good idea. It’s the biggest city on the Riviera and has an international airport and busy train station. If you want to save some money, be sure to look at rentals in the city center in addition to the airport.
You also have rental agencies in Cannes, Antibes, Saint-Tropez (though very few), Sainte Maxime (also very few), and a few other towns.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
Public transportation
Buses
There is a good network of buses in the French Riviera connecting all the main towns and within cities like Nice, Menton, Antibes, Monaco, or Cannes. Locals use these buses all year, so the routes are fairly extensive and frequent.
A couple of different companies operate the routes, but the main two are Lignes d’Azur and Zou.
Bus tickets can be purchased at bus stations, ticket kiosks/vending machines, directly aboard the bus, and on the Lignes d’Azur mobile app. Single use tickets cost 1.50 euro, but you can also buy unlimited use 1-day passes (5 euro) or an unlimited use 7-day pass (20 euro).
Remember that you must validate bus tickets.
Train
Traveling around the Riviera by train is a viable option as most of the coastal towns have a stop. That is not the case for inland towns, however.
The train is called the TER (Express Regional Train) and in high season it can be a much better option than buses as you won’t get stuck in heavy traffic.
Trains are operated by the French national rail service, Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Français (SNCF). You can purchase tickets directly on their website or in-person at any train station
If you plan on using the train, make sure you check to see where exactly the stop is for any given down. The geography of the Riviera doesn’t always allow railways to get close to the sea, where the towns are located, so sometimes your stop will actually be quite far from where you ultimately want to go, requiring a bus or taxi ride (or a very long walk).
As time is precious, especially in an area like the French Riviera, you need to consider whether the train and bus will eat up too much of your time. While either can be good options for a day trip or two to another town, trying to plan a week or more of moving around the Riviera by public transport will inevitably mean you lose quite a bit of time.
If you’re the type of traveler who likes to pack multiple places and stops into a single day, public transport is frankly not a good option.
Where to buy train & bus tickets
In general, I recommend booking your public transport tickets directly with the service provider. That said, when you have a lot of options or when you’re not familiar with the different companies, it can be a hassle to look them all up in order to compare routes and prices.
Omio is an aggregator I like that shows options for public transport routes all over the world. When you do a search, you’ll be able to see all your options for trains, buses, flights, and even ferries along with a host of different companies that provide the services.
Costs & Expenses
Unfortunately, the reality is that the French Riviera is quite an expensive place to vacation, one of the most expensive in Europe. If you go to touristy or high-end places, you will invariably find yourself spending a small fortune, even for a simple meal or just a drink.
To avoid this, look for where locals go to eat and drink - we are not all rich and famous so if you see us somewhere you know two things are certain; the food is good and it’s affordable.
For accommodations, there’s not much you can do. They’re a bit pricey. Try to find local B&Bs, guesthouses, serviced flats, and small local hotels. These can all be relatively good deals compared to big hotel chains.
Some travelers try to stay over the border in Italy to save money, and while you may find cheaper hotels, you’ll just spend more on gas and lose precious time.
In general, hotels in the towns along the coast are more expensive, while inland towns have better prices.
Hotel prices
Here’s what you should expect to pay for standard (think 3-star) accommodation during the high season (1st June to 30th September):
From 200€ for 2 adults / night, breakfast included, in a standard hotel.
From 250€ for 2 adults / night in an aparthotel.
From 300€ for 2 adults / night in a 35m2 holiday studio.
From 300€ for 2 adults / night in a B&B.
In shoulder/low seasons hotel prices don’t drop very much, but prices for other types of accommodation do:
From 115€ for 2 adults per night in a 35m2 studio
From 140€ for 2 adults per night in an aparthotel.
From 140€ for 2 adults per night in a B&B.
Prices for meals and drinks
Usually restaurants will offer a fixed price set menu, mainly at lunch time, where coffee and desert and/or a drink are included along with your meal. You can expect to pay from 25€ per person. Dishes on menus can change every day as they are mainly plat du jour (dish of the day).
If a restaurant has a speciality dish served all year round that you want to try, you will find it in “la carte” (the regular menu). Here prices may change a lot from one restaurant to another. And some are real tourist traps.
So, as I suggested already, look where locals eat. You’ll find more local restaurants usually in small streets, side streets, or a little ways outside of the touristic zone.
Or, for lunch, if you want to really eat like a local, head to the local market and then to the bakery.
At the market, you can source cuts of cured meats, cheeses, and fruits/veggies.
Then at the bakery, you can get the famous baguette, a slice of pissaladière (bread dough topped with melted onions, anchovies, and black olives - a typical dish of Nice) and also something sweet for dessert.
Some markets have free tables outside where you can put together your little feast and grab a drink, but if not you can just head to a park for an impromptu picnic.
Such a picnic lunch is a cheap option to have a real taste of local food and will usually cost you around 20€ for the meal, for two.
Car rental costs
Like airplane tickets, car rental prices differ depending on the season and the duration of your visit. Expect for prices to be highest during the high season (June thru September), during French spring school holidays, and around all public holidays in the month of May.
Car rentals can cost over 100€ a day in August, or around 600€ for a 7-day rental. It will cost you only around 250€ for the same car for 7 days in the last week of September and any other times outside of the summer high season (and potentially even less).
Public transport costs
Most of the year the cost of a bus or train ticket will depend on the route, i.e. where you’re starting and where you’re going.
However, during the high season (June thru September), you have the options of purchasing public transport packages for both bus and train. These are mostly daily passes that give you unlimited rides.
For the train, there is a pass that costs 16€ per day per person. You can ride as many times as you’d like.
Fo the bus, prices vary depending on the town and the bus company, but you can often find unlimited ride options for 5€ per day.
Tours and sites
Lots of activities on the Riviera have costs associated with them, such as museums, villas, gardens, and exhibitions. For most of them, entrance tickets cost under 10 euros and there are usually discounted prices for children under the age of 12.
For large groups, many places offer special prices. You can find the details on their websites.
Guides tours are not usually exorbitantly expensive, especially if you opt for small group tours. I’ve listed a few tours below to give you an idea on what things might cost.
Sailing: A round trip boat ride from Nice to Saint-Tropez on a large shared boat costs 85€/person.
Hop-on, hop-off bus: In Nice this bus costs 23€/person.
Boat trips: Ferry transfer from Nice to Sainte-Marguerite Island (part of the Lérins) costs from 49€/person. Boat tours to beaches with swimming stops cost anywhere from 60 euros to 200 euros per person depending on size and tour duration.
Private guides: A half-day, private walking tour (3-4 hours) with a local guide will cost you somewhere in the realm of 250-350 euros. A full-day tour (8 hours) where the guide also drives you to different places usually starts at around 600 euros.
Paying for things
Credit card acceptance
As the French Riviera is an international tourist hub, you’ll have no problem using your credit or debit card almost everywhere. Even in local markets and at parking meters you can often pay with a card (though you should have cash for such things just in case).
ATM machines are everywhere, even in small towns, and you can exchange currencies in many banks too. Just know that banks are usually closed on Sundays and on Mondays.
Do have cash for visits to markets, to pay for parking, and for public transport.
Tipping
There is no rule about tipping in France. A tip reflects your appreciation of the service.
Waiters and waitresses are employed by the restaurant or the café and get a normal salary.
If you do tip, know that the amount is either kept by the waiter/waitress or pooled together and shared equally amongst the staff at the end of each shift. Every restaurant sets their own rules.
If you tip, 10% is usually adequate at most places. However, at high-end establishments things have started to get out of hand and more American-style tips in the realm of 20% actually be expected. An interesting (and somewhat alarming!) article was recently written about this increasing trend in the Guardian newspaper.
A little safety advice
Pick pockets
Unfortunately, pick pockets can be a problem in touristic areas of the Riviera and on public transport. It is always wise to keep handbags closed, backpacks in front of you, and expensive jewelry out of sight.
While violent crime is extremely rare, some thieves won’t hesitate to grab an expensive watch or piece of jewelry right off you.
Car theft/break ins
If you’re traveling around by car, make sure you close your windows well, lock your doors, and keep all valuables and bags out of sight in the car. Car break ins are not overly common, but they do certainly happen, especially if expensive items or luggage are visible from the outside.
Should something happen to your car and you need to file a police report, know that parking lots are all equipped with video surveillance cameras.
What to do when visiting the Riviera
Because of the famed light here (and it really is wonderful), artists, painters mostly, and writers started to settle on the Riviera beginning in the late 1800s. Heavyweights like Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, and Renoir all came here to paint the idyllic coastal and country scenes and enjoy life.
Sculptors, filmmakers and movie stars, royals, and business tycoons also caught on and have been visiting and vacationing here for over 100 years. Many of them either built, renovated, or expanded, those lovely villas that you can now visit.
The presence of all these people from high society, but especially the artists, means that the French Riviera, which on first glance would appear to be just a beach destination, actually has a ton of things to do that don’t involve being on or near the water.
There are countless museums, cultural centers, exhibitions, galleries, fairs, events, and crafts studios to visit. And for more active pursuits, there is great walking, hiking, and cycling all over the region.
When visiting the French Riviera, the best thing to do is alternate activities between beach time, culture, sport, and pure relaxing.
Experience the culture
The French Riviera has so much to offer in many cultural fields. It is impossible to make a list of everything, but here is a sample I chose to share with you to give you a good understanding of what awaits.
If you like arts and crafts, then you will have to visit at least one of these little towns:
Pottery
In Vallauris, a town known for its pottery, you can visit the ceramic museum and the pottery museum. After that, there are also many historical places to see in town. Pablo Picasso worked here later in his life actually making pottery, so this is a great spot to see some of his work.
Blown glass
The town of Biot is a center of glass blowing. Visitors can visit the glass factories and watch a master glassmaker work directly in front of them. For more to do, the Fernand Léger National Museum and lots of local art galleries and exhibitions can complete your visit to this pretty town.
Gardens
In the village of Eze, you can combine a wander in a great medieval village with a visit to a botanical garden from which you’ll be able to admire the whole French Riviera above, with views stretching to the Italian Riviera on the east and off to Saint-Tropez on the west.
Architecture, museums, & villas
Most of the main towns, from Menton at the Italian border all the way to Cannes have interesting architecture to look at, charming streets to walk on, monuments from different eras, and intricate Catholic and Orthodox churches.
Most of the larger cities have good museums, usually dedicated to a specific artist who lived there, or to local traditions, history, or a specific art movement.
Larger towns will have beautiful villas and accompanying gardens which open their doors to visitors.
Markets
Markets are a feature of life everywhere in France and they are always a pleasure for visitors. Almost every town in France will have at least a weekly market and some towns will have multiple different markets that open on various days.
They’re great for eating, shopping, browsing, and buying souvenirs!
Relax on the beaches and the sea
No visit to the French Riviera would be complete without some time at the beach.
Some are private, which means you will have to pay a fee, while others are of course public. When you pay at a private beach, you’ll have an umbrella, beach chair, and some facilities included in the cost. For public beaches, you’ll need to bring anything you want on the beach.
Before coming, you should know that you won’t really find any fine sand beaches on the Riviera. Most beaches are a mix of gravely sand or pebbles.
To get out onto the water, you have plenty of options for boat trips/cruises that last from 2 hours to 9 hours. Tours do all different things - go deep out to see, take you beach hoping, transport you to different coastal towns, or take you out to islands like the Lérins.
Get active and enjoy the outdoors
Because of its natural environment, the French Riviera is an excellent location for outdoor activities, both on land and sea.
You can find the typical beach/nautical sports like swimming, scuba diving, paddle boarding, skate surfing, jet skis, sailing, etc.
Or on land you can go for a hike on any of the many marked routes and trails that start in towns all along the coast. They’ll take you to beautiful viewpoints, deep into forests, and to secluded beaches for amazing swims.
If you like golf, there are a host of golf courses, many of which are in stunning locations. It can be hard to focus on the golf at times!
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Best places to visit in the French Riviera
Now I would like to share with you some of my favorite places to visit all along the French Riviera.
This list is a mix of cities and towns, natural areas, beaches, and specific sites (museums, gardens, historical buildings, etc.) that I think provide the perfect, classic Riviera experience and ambiance.
I haven’t included everywhere and I’ve skipped a few of the most famous places either because I personally find them to be overcrowded and overrated or because you’re certain to go to them anyways so I don’t think I even need to mention them (like Saint-Tropez).
1. Menton
Menton is a colourful town next to the Italian border. The town’s clock tower with its distinctive orange color, surrounded by pastel-colored houses, can be seen from all around.
It is a very cultural place where you can visit three very architecturally interesting churches: the Black Penitents’ chapel, the Saint-Michel Basilica, and the Russian church. The harbor, full of bright colorful boats, is worth a walk too.
2. Val Rahmeh Botanical Garden
Photo: Gossipguy, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Val Rahmeh botanical garden is located in Menton, but deserves its own mention. This is a Provence-Italian style garden that hosts a collection of rare flowers.
The garden is the result of a love story; a British military officer created the garden for his beloved wife. Sadly, she never saw the completed grounds as she died unexpectedly before its completion.
3. Jean Cocteau Museum
Photo: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Jean Cocteau Museum is also in Menton and merits its own little section.
The museum is dedicated to its namesake, the artist Jean Cocteau who practiced many different arts. It is situated right on the waterfront and is housed in a very interesting combination of buildings: a 17th century fort on one side and a very modern modern building on the other side.
On display is a collection of almost 1,000 pieces mostly donated by the businessman Severin Wunderman.
Jean Cocteau, from 1950 until his death in 1963, lived here and became an important figure in the history of the town and the museum catalogues his works.
4. Antibes
Antibes is one of these cities where you can simply feel the history of the place at every turn.
The town is a jumble of small streets and brightly colored houses, an absolute wonder to walk around. It was originally created by the Greeks, and it’s a good idea to learn a bit about that history at the city’s Museum of History and Archeology.
Another worthwhile visit is to the Grimaldi castle, built in the 14th century, which now houses the Picasso Museum.
Turning towards the sea, you should certainly head down to one of the city’s gorgeous beaches for some time soaking in the azure waters. Also go for a walk along Europe’s largest marina, Port Vauban, where you’ll see loads of enormous yachts anchored.
For something unique, stop by the Absinthe Museum and try a drink or two at their bar. Picasso and Hemingway both stopped by for a sip as well in the past.
5. Nice
Nice is the capital of the French Riviera and it is a word heritage city, listed by UNESCO since 2021.
The city’s star attractions are the famous Promenade des Anglais, luxury hotels like Le Negresco, the rue des Ponchettes street where a great market takes place, and Vieux-Nice, the city’s historic old town.
The streets and alleys bustle with activity and are filled with with small restaurants, shops, colorful houses, little squares full of charm, and many outstanding churches and buildings.
On the Cours Saleya street you have one of France’s best markets, filled with fruits, veggies, treats, flowers, and much more.
For something a bit more cultural, you can head to the Matisse Museum or the Chagall Museum.
6. Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Saint-Paul-de-Vence is a beautiful medieval village perched on top of a hill. The town is perfectly preserved and provides fabulous views of Nice’s bay.
The village is famous for its look with stone buildings and narrow streets and staircases all around, but it’s most famous of all for its artisans and craft shops. The shopping here is excellent and you’ll find lots of local shops offering creations from local artists ranging from jewelry and clothes to leathers bags and ceramics.
Some of the town’s art galleries also display paintings and sculptures around town and directly on the street, making it especially fun to walk around and view them.
While here, you can also visit the White Penitents’ chapel which was redecorated in very unusual and interesting style by the late modern arist Jean-Michel Folon.
7. Maeght Foundation
Photo: David Broad, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Maeght Foundation, just outside Saint-Paul-de-Vence, was created as a place to showcase local artists’ pieces using almost exclusively natural light.
It has been a place for artistic experiment and exchange since 1964 and here you’ll find art, architecture, and nature in almost perfect harmony.
8. Biot
Photo: Jean Pierre Lozi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Biot is a lovely medieval town with art everywhere. The village is a good example of a fortified village dating from the 13th century.
In the church, you’ll find a 16th century altar painting from the Italian painter, Louis Breas, which is just magnificent.
Biot is also well known for its bubbled glass blowing technique and you can visit many glass factories to learn how these beautiful art pieces are made.
9. Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is surely the pearl of the Côte d’Azur.
It is a town located on a small peninsula with sumptuous villas from the Belle Epoque era, lush greenery everywhere, and an azure sea all around you. The feeling here is of pure classic luxury.
Many villas are private while others, like Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild and its 9 gardens, or the Villa Santo Sospir with Cocteau murals, can be visited by the public.
If you’re feeling active when you make it here, you can go on a 14km trail that runs around the town’s cape, Cap Ferrat. The route has 3 smaller sub-sections, so you can do a shorter route if 14 kms sounds like more than you’re up for. Whatever you choose, all the routes offer beautiful views of the sea and the town’s villas.
The beaches here are also excellent, so you’d be remiss if you didn’t spend at least a little time lounging by the sea.
10. The Lérins Islands
The Lérins Islands are in the Gulf of Cannes and are reachable by boat. Between the four islands which make up the archipelago, Sainte-Marguerite and Saint-Honorat are the most interesting.
On Saint-Marguerite, you’ll find the Fort Royal housing the Cannes Sea Museum and the Roman cisterns. You can also see where the Iron Mask was held prisoner for 11 years, according to the legend. There is also a nice botanical walk-through Aleppo pines and eucalyptus trees. '
On Saint-Honorat, which is a bit less interesting, there is a monastery dating from the 5th century inhabited by twenty Cistercian monks, producing red and white wine, Lérina, an herbal liquor, lavender essential oil, and honey.
11. Grasse
Photo: Olivier Cleynen, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The town of Grasse is inland, so you won’t find any beaches here. Its claim to fame is for being the worldwide capital of perfume.
Depending on the season you are visiting, you’ll see fields of flowers like roses, jasmine, and lavender. You can also visit the factory of the famous perfume maker, Parfumerie Fragonard.
While in town you should also have a look inside the Villa Jean Fragonard Museum. It houses artworks by the eponymous painter, who was one of the most prolific of the 18th century, with some great “trompe l’oeil” painting technics (“fooling your eyes”).
12. Claux Amic golf course
Claux Amic golf course is near Grasse, located in the mountains at about 600m above sea leave and looking down towards the sea.
It’s a 72-par course of terrific quality and from some holes you have beautiful views of the Esterl mountain chain or the Lérins Islands in the bay of Cannes.
13. Beaches, beaches, beaches
There are some beaches on the French Riviera that simply need to be experienced.
The best beaches are a bit hidden, with pristine azure waters and cliffs covered in bright green pines and Mediterranean scrub surrounding them. The contrast of colors, and the contrast of scents of the sea and the pines, creates the quintessential setting of the French Riviera.
Here are few of the best beaches to visit:
Paloma Beach in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
Petite Afrique Beach in Beaulieu-sur-Mer
Eze Beach
Passable Beach in Cap-Ferrat
Villefranche-sur-Mer Beach (coarse sand)
La Garoupe Beach in Cap d’Antibes (the only sandy beach)
Mala Beach in Cap d’Ail (accessible only by a 100-step stairs)
These beaches offer a mix of private paid facilities and free public beaches, they have good facilities, and lots of activities that you can organize at or from them. Many also have excellent restaurants right on the beach where you can eat with sea views.
Because they are mainly pebble beaches, make sure you have beach shoes to protect your feet.
14. Monaco
Monaco is an inimitable place. It is incredibly famous, but almost entirely actually unknown.
It is a sort of surprising microcosm - in just 2 square kilometers you have an ancient fortress, modern buildings, a casino, tennis courts, an ice rink, a football stadium, a zoo, a botanical garden, 40,000 inhabitants, a prince and his family, and, of course, a Formula 1 Grand Prix. And then, it’s part of the French Riviera, but it’s not even part of France!
While here, there are many things to visit:
The Prince’s Palace: You can visit Monaco’s palace from April to the middle of October (to check every year). Here, admire Italian Renaissance murals only recently brought back to life and wander the grounds where the prince’s family has lived since 1297.
Oceanographic Museum of Monaco: The Oceanographic Museum of Monaco collects about 4,000 fish and sea creatures and has 90 different tanks in its aquarium, fed by water coming from the Mediterranean Sea.
You can also see all sorts of tools, maps, and artifacts that have been used over centuries of Ocean exploration. The famous French ocean explorer Jacques-Yves Cousteau was the head of the museum after Prince Ranier’s death and then until his own death.
Automobile Museum of Monaco: The Automobile Museum of Monaco was created by Prince Rainier to showcase the car collection he made over a period of thirty years. You will find everything from old, restored cars to Formula 1 race cars and Monte-Carlo ralley cars.
The museum is a really wonderful trip through automobile history and the setting, in the city that hosts a great Formula 1 Grand Prix, could not be more fitting.
Monaco’s Classic Garden: A few of Monaco’s gardens are entirely worth visiting. You should plan to check out the the Roseraie Princesse Grace (Princess Grace Rose Garden) and the Jardin Exotique de Monaco (Exotic Garden). Each has its own personality.
The exotic garden was established in the 19th century and specialized in cactuses and succulents, like aloes and crassula, all of which from semi-arid regions of the globe.
The Princess Grace Rose Garden was created in 1984 by Prince Rainier in memory of his wife, Princess Grace. It has an English garden flair with a Mediterranean touch with olive trees, cypresses, bougainvillea, lavender, and fountains interspersed throughout 6,000 rose bushes of 315 different varieties.
15. The Old Course Golf
Photo: Michel Royon, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Old Course Golf, located between Nice and Cannes, has a club house that dates back more than 100 years and is one of France’s oldest.
It is a very unique course, cut by the tracks of the Marseille-Nice train line and also by the Siagne river. While playing, you’ll need to take a small sort of ferry/cable car across the river to continue your game.
On the 8th green you’re also only 100 meters away from the Cannes-Mandeliue airport runway. On the 4th, you’re so close to the sea that losing your ball in Mediterranean is a very real possibility.
Even if you’re not a great fan of golf, the experience is quite charming.
16. Local Markets
The local markets everywhere throughout France are something that every visitor should experience when here and the French Riviera is no exception.
Each town holds its own market, sometimes only one day a week and sometimes various days. When visiting a town, it’s always a good idea to first check what day they have their market.
At markets you’ll find the best local products like fresh fruits, veggies, cured meat, cheeses, biscuits, honey, olives done myriad ways (in olive oil, in vinegar, stuffed…), and other very typical Provence delicacies like tapenade (black or green olive purées), confit garlic, dried tomatoes, tomatine (dried tomato paste), anchoïade (anchovy paste) and oh so much more.
And in summer, you enjoy night markets as well! These usually offer more craft goods and less produce, but it is always a pleasure to walk around them under the stars.
French Riviera Itineraries - 5 to 14 days
Here are some potential itineraries covering everything from the essential French Riviera to the region’s hidden treasures and undiscovered gems.
5-day French Riviera Itinerary – Essentials of the Côte d’Azure
Day 1: Nice – old city and culture
Day 2: Menton – history, art, and architecture
Day 3: Eze / Saint-Jean – Cap Ferrat / Beaulieu-sur-Mer – from medieval village to Belle Epoque villas and gardens
Day 4: Vallauris / Saint-Paul de Vence / Biot - arty and crafty visits
Day 5: Grasse / Cannes / Antibes – Jan-les-Pins - glamour
7-day French Riviera Itinerary
Day 1: Nice – old city and culture
Day 2: Menton – history, art, and architecture
Day 3: Eze / Saint-Jean – Cap Ferrat / Beaulieu-sur-Mer – from medieval village to Belle Epoque villas and gardens
Day 4: Saint-Paul de Vence / Biot - arty and crafty visits
Day 5: Antibes – Jan-les-Pins - culture and beach
Day 6: Grasse – Vallauris - perfume and potters’ hubs
Day 7: Cannes and the Lérins islands: glamour and nature
10-day French Riviera Itinerary – The Full Experience
Day 1: Nice
Day 2: Eze medieval village & Eze seaside- medieval, botanical, and nautical experiences
Day 3: Menton
Day 4: Monaco
Day 5: Saint-Jean – Cap Ferrat / Beaulieu-sur-Mer – Belle Epoque villas and gardens
Day 7: Saint-Paul de Vence
Day 8: Antibes / Jan-les-Pins – culture, history, and beaches
Day 9: Grasse / Biot / Vallauris – the art of glass blowing and the art of pottery
Day 10: Cannes and the Lérins islands – glamour and nature
2-week French Riviera Itinerary - Highlights and Hidden Gems
Day 1: Nice – historic city and culture
Day 2: Eze medieval village & Eze seaside - medieval sites, botanical gardens, and nautical experiences
Day 3: Menton – history, art, and architecture
Day 4: Monaco – luxury, glamourous palaces, museums, and gardens
Day 5: Baou de Saint Jeannet / Tourette-sur-Loup – little walks and fantastic old villages
Day 6: Saint-Jean – Cap Ferrat / Beaulieu-sur-Mer – Belle Epoque villas and gardens
Day 7: Saint-Paul de Vence / Vence – art and craft shops in beautiful old villages
Day 8: Antibes / Jan-les-Pins – culture, history, and beaches
Day 9: Biot / Vallauris – the art of glass blowing and the art of pottery
Day 10: Grasse - perfume and culture
Day 11: Cannes and the Lérins islands – glamour and nature
Day 12: Cagnes-sur -Mer – three cities in one
Day 13: Mougins – typical historic village
Day 14: Saint Tropez - round trip by boat from Nice to visit the famous village
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