How to Spend a Week in Spain’s Basque Country - A Local’s Itinerary
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The Basque Country, in the far northeastern corner of Spain, is a place like no other on the Iberian peninsula. Green and lush, coastal but also mountainous, urban but with a strong rural character and outdoors culture, it’s a place that offers almost endless opportunities to visitors.
A fiercely independent region with its own culture and language, you’ll often find that it feels a little bit French, fairly Spanish, but never entirely so, and very Basque, whatever that quite means. I think that blend of cultures and influences makes a visit here all the more appealing, as you’ll find yourself constantly surprised and regularly confronted with a place that is totally unique.
Now, for me, any trip to the Basque Country should incorporate three primary “ingredients”: a heavy dose of the outdoors, especially in the mountains, plenty of time on the coast and by the beach, and food, food, and more food. This is the unbeatable trifecta that the Basque Country offers up, and it’s exactly what I’ve put into the itinerary below.
7 days would never be enough to explore the whole region, but it’s a sufficient amount of time to get a good introduction, experiencing some of the best of what I just mentioned above.
The plan that I’ve arranged starts with two days in the mountains, followed by a day in one of our big cities, San Sebastián, where you can get a taste for urban life here. You’ll then spend three days traipsing between coastal fishing villages and beaches, followed by a final day in Bilbao, the center of art, culture, finance, and just about everything else in the Basque Country.
As far as introductions go, I think this is a pretty good one.
Table of Contents
Itinerary overview
Day 1: Morning in Pamplona, afternoon and evening in Urbasa-Andia Natural Park
Day 2: A day of hiking in/around Tolosa
Day 3: San Sebastián’s City Center, Old Town, and Gros neighborhood
Day 4: Explore Hondarribia’s Old Town and Fisherman’s Neighborhood, spend the evening in San Sebastián
Day 5: Surfing and watersports in Zarautz, wine in Getaria, and the flysch geological formation in Zumaia
Day 6: Road trip along the Bizkaia Coast from Zumaia to Bilbao
Day 7: Bilbao’s City Center and Casco Antiguo
How to get around for this itinerary
The Basque Country has a comprehensive public transit system, with local trains connecting the cities to one another and a network of buses filling in the gaps to smaller towns. Even so, not everywhere is reachable, especially our natural areas, and to follow this itinerary you’ll definitely need to get a rental car.
For rental options, you’ll find all the major international rental companies in the Basque Country as well as some smaller local ones which are often less expensive. Any medium-to-large city will have rental agencies, but for the best selection and price you’ll probably want to to rent the car from somewhere with an international airport or a busy train station (Bilbao, for example, or San Sebastián).
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
Day 1 - Pamplona and Urbasa
Begin your Basque Country itinerary in Pamplona, the capital of Navarra, the most eastern of the provinces that form the historic area known as the Basque Country. Pamplona is world-famous for its festival and the running of the bulls, but the city has quite a lot to offer beyond that. After exploring the city, you’ll head on to the Urbasa Plataeu, a beautiful natural area with mountains, forests, and great hikinh.
Plaza del Castillo in Pamplona’s city center. Photo: Jean-Christophe BENOIST, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Lovely buildings in Pamplona’s historic center. Photo: Ekinklik, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning - Pamplona’s Old Town
Pamplona is best known for Hemingway and the San Fermín fesitval (when the running of the bulls takes place) but this is also a historic city that was once the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Navarra, which controlled everything from the Pyrenees in the east to Bilbao in the west.
The best place to discover that heritage is in Pamplona’s Old Town, beginning in the Plaza del Castillo, the heart of the city. And if you’re a Hemingway fan, this is where the main characters of his famous novel The Sun Also Rises started their affair with this city and the Basque people, so it’s a great place from which to begin yours.
This is a monumental square ringed by gorgeous hundreds-of-year-old buildings, so take your time to soak it all in. Then grab a coffee in the historic Café Iruña and fuel up in preparation for your morning walk.
From here, you can basically set off in any direction you want. Pamplona’s historic core is really pretty but not especially big, so you can cover most of it in a morning’s wander. There are lovely old streets and alleys branching off in all directions from the square, and they’ll take you out to many other pretty squares, monuments, and landmarks.
Rather than organizing a route for you, I’ll just point out some of the places I think you should visit:
For churches, there are three main ones that I recommend:
The Cathedral of Pamplona, a magnificent 13th century Romanesque building with an exquisite French Gothic cloister.
The Iglesia de San Lorenzo, which was built in the early 1700’s and has a blended Baroque and Neoclassical style. This is where the city’s patron saint is interred.
The impressive 12th century Iglesia de San Nicolás de Bari, built in a Gothic style. Between the three of them, it’s a pretty cool mix of architectural influences and designs.
Another of Pamplona’s most impressive sites is the massive 16th century Ciudadela de Pamplona, which, together with the city’s walls, is considered one of the best preserved defensive fortifications in Europe. You can walk along the walls, which stretch for 5 kilometers and totally encircle the old town.
Of course, Pamplona is most famous for the running of the bulls, so no visit here would be complete without checking out the Plaza de Toros and its enormous bullring. Be sure to have a look at the nearby Monumento al Encierro sculpture as well, which depicts the running of the bulls.
And whenever you get hungry, I have one important suggestion for you, which is always my favorite part of any visit to Pamplona: you absolutely must have an almuerzo while here. In Pamplona, this is a kind of brunch (not lunch), which usually consists of a plate of eggs, Navarran sausages called txistorras, and french fries. Back in the day, this was the meal that farmers ate to fuel up before starting their day’s work.
Afternoon – Hiking in the Urbasa-Andia Natural Park
The view from the Balcón de Pilatos in Urbasa-Andia Park. Photo: Theklan, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Urederra river springs. Photo: Barasoaindarra, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Once you’ve finished your almuerzo, it’s time to head out to the Sierra de Urbasa, one of the most unique natural areas in the Iberian Peninsula. The Urbasa mountain range is a plateau that forms the border between the humid, green areas of the northern Basque Country and the arid plains of its southern half, so you will find vastly different landscapes on either side of it.
A heavily forested area, it stands at an elevation of just over 3,000 feet, and has some really lovely landscapes to explore. I think the perfect plan for the afternoon is to do various of the shorter hikes, so that you get to see a variety of the park’s different landscapes.
Some of the most popular and also most pleasant hikes are:
The hike to the Balcón de Pilatos viewpoint.
The hike through the “Hayeda Encantado” (Enchanted Beech Forest), a dense forest of beech trees. It’s especially spectacular in the fall.
The hikes around the “Nacedero del Urederra”, the springs from where the Urederra River spouts.
You can see trail maps for all of these, as well as a few others, here. If you’re an experienced hiker who wants to do a longer trek, many of these can be extended and actually combined, and you’ll find a variety of longer routes and other tails here.
If you’re not up for quite so much hiking, there are lots of shorter walks and treks that you can do within the park, and you could even just drive through a lot of it in your car. The scenery is still fantastic and you’ll be able to stop off at great viewpoints and other scenic areas basically any time you want. It’s well, well worth visiting even if you just want to drive through.
Evening – A night of starry skies at the Urbasa Camping site
With no cities and very little development anywhere near the park, light pollution is basically non-existant here, making it one of the best places in Spain for stargazing. With that in mind, I recommend spending the night in the park. You can reserve a private cabin at Camping de Urbasa, which also has an onsite restaurant.
So, if you’re up for it, spend the night in the park, enjoy a plato combinado in the campsite’s restaurant, and spend the evening gazing at the stars and marveling at how they illuminate the beautiful fields of the plateau.
Overnight in Camping de Urbasa (or nearby towns)
**Quick note on alternative accommodation: I know that staying in a campsite cabin won’t appeal to everyone, so if you’d prefer something less rustic, you can always opt instead to stay in the nearby towns. Alsasua – Altsasu, Olazti/Olazagutía, and Algurain (among others) are all within around 20 minutes of Urbasa and have pleasant little centers to grab dinner and go for an evening walk.
Really, you could even make your way back to Pamplona, or could totally mix things up and head about 45 minutes west to the city of Vitoria-Gasteiz. Lots of options.
Day 2 - Tolosa
You’ll have experienced a bit of the mountains yesterday, but I have more of them in store for you today. The Basque Country and its people have always had a very close relationship with the mountains, and nowhere can that be felt as strongly as in the city of Tolosa, the capital of the Goierri - an area of beautiful mountains and valleys. So get ready to hike today!
Tolosa, nestled at the base of Mount Uzturre. Photo: Euskaldunaa, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
The view east from Mount Txindoxi. Photo: GFDL, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The path up Mount Aizkorri. Photo: Iñaki LLM, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning & afternoon – Mountain hiking around Tolosa
Regardless of where you chose to spend the night yesterday, Tolosa will be within an hour’s drive, so you can have a relatively leisurely start to your day before setting off in that direction.
Tolosa is a lovely little city that occupies a privileged position in the Oria River Valley, nestled between mountains and spreading out on either side of the Oria River.
A historic town, this used to be the capital of the Gipuzkoa province, and its former importance can still be seen in its many grand buildings, like the 16th century Town Hall, 17th century Palace of Aranburu, and the Gothic-Baroque, almost fortresslike Church of Saint Mary.
The city is worth visiting in its own right, but I think what you really come here for is to experience its mountain spirit and access to the outdoors. With the Oria river running right through town, you have lots of opportunities for watersports like kayaking, rafting, and rowing, but above all, Tolosa is a land of alpinists and mountaineers, so my plan for the day will take you out into the mountains.
This is wonderful hiking territory, and you’ll have everything from easy rambles to technical climbs right at your fingertips. I would recommend spending the morning and afternoon hiking, and then you can enjoy the evening exploring Tolosa.
Here are some of the hikes that I’d recommend:
Mount Uzturre: Starting right from Tolosa, you can set off on the easy 6-mile hike to Mount Uzturre, from where you’ll have gorgeous views of the Oria River Valley. There’s also a parking area that you can start from if you’d prefer to get out of town first (the roads are busier). The walk is steep but easy and on a wide track.
Txindoxi summit: For something more strenuous, but also far more impressive, you can head about 25 minutes south into the Sierra de Aralar, the mountain range that forms the border between Navarra and Gipuzkoa. An isolated and ever-green area, it holds some of the best hiking in the entire Basque country. The hike that’d I’d suggest is the 6-mile summit trail up the mythical Mount Txindoxi, one of the symbols of the Basque trekking tradition. You can leave your car here.
Aizkorri summit: A third option is to head into the Aizkorri-Aratz Natural Park, known for its limestone crags and beech forests. There are a lot of hikes to do here with a wide variety of distances and difficulty, but if you’re up for a real adventure, I’d suggest the 10-mile Aizkorri Mountain summit trail that starts from the village of Arantzazu and takes you to the top of Aizkorri Mountain and a few others along the way! Hard work but spectacular views.
For the last two hikes/areas, they’re between Urbasa and Tolosa, so you’ll want to visit them first, and then continue on to the town later in the day. This will save you from backtracking unnecessarily.
Evening – A dinner of Tolosa’s famed txuleta beef
After your hike, it’s time to explore Tolosa. As I mentioned above, this is a lovely city and its surprisingly grand, with tall and elegant apartment blocks lining many streets. I already mentioned a few of the main sights above, and the town isn’t really big enough that you need a concerted plan, so you can mostly just wander at your leisure.
The southern part of town is newer, but very pretty, while the Casco Antiguo (old town), lies to the north. A good walk is to start down in the city center on San Frantzisko street and just walk it all the way up into and through the Casco Antiguo, diverting off whenever you see something that interests you. A walk along the riverfront is always very nice as well.
And when you’re ready to eat, I have my most important recommendation of the day for you: As you may or may not know, there is nothing as traditional in the Basque Country in terms of meat culture as a txuleta - a grilled T-bone steak. And thankfully, the two best places in the world to eat the Basque txuleta are in Tolosa: Casa Julián and Casa Nicolás, standing on opposite sides of the Oria River.
Everyone has their favorite between the two and people will argue endlessly about which is better, but both are excellent, so my recommendation is to just pick one and get ready to enjoy one of the best steaks of your life. Fair warning though, you’ll pay a pretty penny for these delicious meals.
Overnight in Tolosa
Day 3 - San Sebastián
After a few days of hiking and mountains, it’s now time to experience a more urban, cosmopolitan, and elegant side of the Basque Country. And for that, there’s nowhere better than San Sebastián, our glorious Belle Epoque city. This is also the indisputable pearl of the Spanish culinary tradition, so while you’re feasting your eyes on lovely architecture, you’ll also feast on incredible pintxos.
Ondarreta beach on the western edge of San Sebastián
Morning – Walk San Sebastián’s seaside promenade from end to end
San Sebastián is only about 30 minutes north of Tolosa, so your drive today will be very quick and easy. Enjoy the mountain air one last time in Tolosa, and then hop in the car and make your way north to coastal San Sebastián. From mountains to sea in just 30 minutes - not too bad!
Regarding when to get going, one of the nice things about the Basque Country, especially for visitors who are looking to pack in as much as possible, is that days start early here. In much of Spain, you’ll find that there’s really nothing going on before 10:00 AM, which can really limit your sightseeing time if you’re an early riser. But that’s not the case in the Basque Country - we get up early and our towns and cities are busy first thing in the morning.
So do like the Basques and plan to get an early start today! I’d suggest trying to be in San Sebastián by around 9:00 AM. Here’s my plan for the morning:
I think the best way to start any day in San Sebastián is with a walk along the sea. So head to the western edge of the city, where you’ll find the iconic Peine de los Vientos (Comb of the Wind) sculpture. The sculpture marks the westernmost portion of San Sebastián’s seaside promenade, and is a great vantage point from where you can see Santa Clara island, La Concha beach, and the city stretching out to the the east.
The promenade is only about 3 kilometers, so you could easily walk it in an hour or even less, but my suggestion is to really savor it, walking slowly, breathing the ocean air, and enjoying the seaside views.
As you get toward the end of La Concha beach, you’ll be right in the heart of the the City Center (also called the Area Romántica), so here I suggest leaving the promenade and exploring, as this is the heart of San Sebastian’s 19th century Belle Epoque architecture and atmosphere.
In the city center, be sure to check out the following sights:
The towering San Sebastián Cathedral
The magnificent plazas (squares) of Bilboa, Gipuzkoa, and Okendo
The ornate Maria Cristina bridge
Iconic Maria Cristina Hotel and Victoria Eugenia Theater
A walk along the river is also very nice, as is a meander along any of the gorgeous city center boulevards, which are all lined with beautiful 19th century Belle Epoque-era buildings
Afternoon – Eat your way through Lo Viejo (the Old Town) along the “Pintxos route”
Plaza de la Constitución. Photo: Edorta Subijana, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Once you’ve finished checking out the City Center, you should head into the adjacent neighborhood of Lo Viejo - San Sebastián’s Old Town and the zenith of Basque cuisine. My recommendation would be that you try to make it here by around 1:00 PM so that you can calmly enjoy all the best pintxos. Restaurants in the Old Town typically serve lunch from around 1:00 to 3:00/3:30, so you want to be here relatively early to make the most of it.
Right on the southwestern entrance of Lo Viejo is the ideal place to start your food crawl: Paco Bueno. Here, I would go for a gilda - a typical pintxo based on tuna, pepper, and anchovies -, followed by the gambas con gabardina - trench coat shrimps -, a classic in Paco Bueno.
Your next stop, Atari Restaurant, is just a few meters up the street, right in front of the Basilica of Santa María del Coro - an 18th century Baroque church that has a very impressive Rococó Retable. Atari is a modern classic in San Sebastián, so take a seat in the terrace and ask for the grilled octopus.
From Atari, head east to Kapadokia, one of the best modern spots that Lo Viejo has to offer. To get there, you’ll pass by the grand Plaza de la Constitución, the principal square of San Sebastián, and San Vicente Church, the oldest in the city.
Although young and recently established, the staff of Kapadokia has earned quite a good deal of respect (no easy feet in a food mecca like San Sebastián), so I would simply ask the staff what they suggest and trust them to curate an excellent selection.
Finally, for your last pintxos of the afternoon, go first to Txuleta to try its classic T-Bone, and then on to Gandarias for some more seafood bites.
And of course, no meal would be complete without dessert. For a sweet treat to wrap things up, there’s no doubt about the choice: you must go to La Viña and try their internationally famous Basque Cheesecake. It’s so good that it will make you cry - I know that because it happened to me!
Evening – Climb Monte Urgull and watch the Sunset from El Muro
Monte Urgull, rising over San Sebastián’s Old Town
Well, after a gluttonous afternoon, it’s time to work off some calories. Still within the Old Town, your next stop is Monte Urgull, which rises up over this part of the city on a peninsula jutting into the Cantabrian Sea.
With steep but easy enough paths leading up to the top, the walk to the top of the “mountain” will only take you around half an hour. You’ll have great views of the the city and La Concha beach from the summit.
From there, head down in the direction of the Aquarium, where you’ll find the Paseo Nuevo, an extension of the seafront promenade that will get you up close and personal with the power of the Cantabrian Sea. On stormy days, you can’t even walk this part of the promenade because the waves are too strong and crash all over it!
Continue heading east along the Paseo Nuevo and then cross over the Urumea River at Zurriola Bridge, one the city’s three beautiful Belle Epoque bridges. Here, you’ll see The Kursaal Congress Center right in front of you, a strikingly modern building that has become one of the images of San Sebastián. It hosts the annual Film Festival along with cultural events, concerts, theater performances, etc.
From the Kursaal, walk along the pedestrianzed path just behind Zurriola beach until you reach Sagues, a lovely seaside area on the eastern edge of the city. Here, if you’ve timed things right, you can catch the best sunset in the city from “El Muro”, the concrete wall on the far end of the beach. This is a classic sunset viewing spot for locals, so it’s a lot of fun to experience.
The area is also lively and filled with restaurants, bars, and cafes, many with terraces, so grab a beer or a glass of wine, maybe even a tortilla Española from the nearby Adamo Beach restaurant, and enjoy the view of the waves and surfers, mountains, and sunset all taking place in front of you. It’s the perfect representation of San Sebastián’s way of life.
The neighborhood you’re in at this point is called Gros, and it’s a very hip and youthful part of the city. You could easily spend the rest of the evening here, or can return to the Old Town or City Center for more exploring.
Overnight in San Sebastián
Day 4 - Hondarribia & San Sebastián
About 30 minutes to the east of Sen Sebastián, on the border between Spain and France, Hondarribia is a pretty fishing town that perfectly represents the blended culture and lifestyle of the Basque Country, straddling France and Spain and incorporating aspects of each, but still maintaining its own distinct identity.
Castle of Carlos V, now the Parador de Hondarribia. Photo: Jorge Franganillo, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Houses along a typical cobbled street in the Old Town
Morning – Explore Hondarribia’s Old Town
Hondarribia, less than a half-hour from San Sebastian, is a lovely historic town that has become a very popular tourist destination in the last decades. Nestled on the coast right on the border between Spain and France, this has been an important town since ancient times, and its fortified Old Town, surrounded by walls, is a testament to that.
Those impressive walls have protected the city from its first siege in the 1200’s until the last one in the 19th century. War and sieges aren’t really a concern anymore, and nowadays the town is a lively fishing village with an exceptionally good culinary scene.
So there are three main things to do here: explore the old town, wander around the Marina neighborhood, and eat, eat, and eat. Here’s the plan I recommend:
Park your car outside the old city and then climb atop its walls to catch a nice view of the city, coast, and Bidasoa River. You can walk the entire expanse of walls, which still encircle the old town.
Next, head into the compact little old town and get lost in its narrow, cobble stone streets. Fully pedestrianized and entirely retaining its medieval character, this is a wonderful historic center. It’s small enough that you can explore it comprehensively in very little time and with no plan, but here are a few sights not to miss:
The Baroque 18th century town hall
Zuloaga Palace, now the municipal library
The 15th century Church of Santa María
The main square, the Plaza de Armas, and Guipuzcoa Square
Of course, you absolutely must also visit one of the most iconic monuments of the Basque Country: the 10th/16th Century Castle of Charles V, a former defensive fortress that has now been converted into a luxurious Parador - a type of high-end hotel managed by the Spanish government. The hotel has a café/bar, and it’s absolutely worth getting a drink or coffee there so that you can catch a glimpse of the inside of the castle.
And another tip: even when you think you’ve seen everything, I strongly suggest weaving your way back through the old town a second time. It’s so well-preserved and so atmospheric that it really deserves to be savored and fully absored.
Afternoon – Lunch and a wander through the “Sailors’ Neighborhood”
Colorful houses in the Sailor’s Neighborhood. Photo: Jorge Franganillo, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
In case you haven’t already realized it, let me explain something very important: everything you do in the Basque Country ends with a good meal. This is how the Basques do it and you should absolutely follow their lead.
And in the case of Hondarribia, a village strongly linked with the sea for centuries, my recommendation is that you enjoy that good meal in the Arrantzaleako Auzoa, the “Sailor’s Neighborhood”, just to the north of the Old Town beside the old port.
Inhabited for hundreds of years by the men and woman that made their living fishing and whaling off the Cantabrian Coast (or in more distant seas), the Sailor’s Neighborhood is one of the most picturesque spots in the Basque Coast - with its white houses and painted wooden shutters and balconies all decorated with flowers.
So take a walk through the neighborhood, especially along San Pedro and Santiago streets, its main thoroughfares, and then get ready to eat. This neighborhood has an incredible collection of excellent restaurants, so you really can’t go wrong, but my favorite is La Hermandad de los Pescadores.
I’d suggest trying the kokotxas (a fish stew made with cuts of fish cheek/neck), the merluza en salsa verde (hake cooked in a garlicky green sauce hake), or whatever you fancy in the moment. You’ll regret nothing in this temple of Basque food.
There are a number of other things to do in/around the town, so it’s up to you how you spend the rest of the day. The town’s wide, sandy 800-meter beach is quite nice, there’s a waterfront promenade that stretches all the way between the beach and the Old Town, and Cape Higuer Lighthouse is just north of town, jutting out into the water on a rocky headland. The views are exceptoinal and there are lots of hiking paths from the lighthouse and nearby.
Evening - A night out in San Sebastián
Whenever you’re ready to head back from Hondarribia, just hop in the car and make the 30-minute drive back to San Sebastián.
You’ll have seen a good deal of the city yesterday, so the plan this evening is entirely up to you. You can enjoy a lively night out in the Old Town or City Center, can hang with the surfers and hipsters in the neighborhood of Gros, or you can head to the western side of town and visit the area called El Antiguo, which is a very local residential neighborhood that has its own distinct spirit.
You could even make a stop in Pasaia on the way back, which is another pleasant fishing town just on the edge of San Sebastián’s city limits.
Overnight in San Sebastián
Day 5 - Zarautz, Getaria, and Zumaia
Just 20 miles west of San Sebastián is one of the more impressive stretches of coast that the Iberian Peninsula has to offer - the coastline that runs from Zarautz to Zumaia, a unique geological area that has been immortalized in the Game of Thrones TV show.
Zarautz and its long, sandy beach
Morning – Surfing, biking, or hiking in Zarautz
At this point in this itinerary, you’ve seen a lot of the mountains and have experienced a good deal of city and village life, but haven’t spent much time on the coast actually enjoying the water. So today is going to change that, with a full day of activities on and in the sea.
So pack up your bags, say goodbye to San Sebastián, and start heading west. Your first stop for the day is Zarautz, one of the surfing meccas of the Basque Country and just a 20-minute drive from San Sebastián.
Actually, more than just surfing, this town has produced the highest per capita number of professional athletes of anywhere in Spain. Whether its something in the water or just the culture of the place, a disproportionately high number of of soccer, basketball, handball players, cycling stars, and of course, surf legends have come from Zarautz.
With that being the case, what else can you do in this village other than get active?! And above all else, this is a surfing town, so if you’re up for it, I strongly recommend taking a surf lesson and getting out on the water.
There’s no better way to spend a morning in Zarautz than surfing its great breaks, and then rewarding yourself with a late brunch in one of its waterfront restaruants lined up along the malecón - boardwalk. Every time I’m here, it feels like I’ve been transported to California. I know that sounds odd, but if anywhere in Spain is gives off Cali vibes, it’s Zarautz.
And even if you don’t want to surf, you can always still enjoy a leisurely morning lounging on the beach and exploring the town.
For other active pursuits, here are a few more ideas:
You can rent a bike and go for a cruise outside of town on some of the most picturesque roads in the Iberian Peninsula, with incredible sea views.
Head to the nearby town of Orio and go kayaking or paddle boarding on the Oria River.
Take an easy hike up Talai Mendi hill to the Gran Camping Zarautz, where you’ll have great views of the town and impressive nature that surrounds it.
Afternoon – Walk the 3-mile beachfront promenade between Zarautz and Getaria
Getaria. Photo: Prigalla, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Getaria and it’s beach (on the eastern side). Photo: Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Just 3 miles away from Zarautz is the tiny, gorgeous, and charming fishing village of Getaria, which was the hometown of Juan Sebastián Elcano, the sailor who completed the first circumnavigation of the Earth in 1522. With a heritage like that, and a fishing and seafaring tradition that has continue for the following 500 years, this is a place with a truly strong maritime feel.
The two towns are connected by a 3-mile promenade that winds its way all along the coast, and the walk between them will take you about an hour. On arrival to Getaria, you’ll notice that all roads lead down to the port, but before making your way there, pay a visit to the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum.
Yep, the world-famous fashion designer was born in this town (his father was a fisherman), and his old home has been turned into a pretty cool museum. You can visit in an hour or so, and it’s a neat place to check out and a total change of pace.
From the museum, follow the narrow roads down to the port and just enjoy the coastal atmosphere. The old town here is small but quite nice (be sure to check out the Church of San Salvador), and it’s filled with excellent restaurants that serve incredibly fresh seafood, so is a great place to grab lunch. Some of my favorites are: Elkano (very expensive though), Mayflower, Astillero, Chiringuito.
There are also two good little beaches on either side of the town, as well as a lighthouse-topped headland that you can walk out to, where you’ll have awesome views looking back on the village and surrounding countryside.
To round out the rather eclectic offerings of Getaria, this is also a wine growing region, and you’ll find little houses - called txakolindegis - where they produce the local txakoli wine scattered about and just outside the town. I definitely suggest heading over to one of them for a tasting. The wine is sparkling and acidic and I quite like it.
Whenever you’ve had your fill of Getaria, you can either make the 3-mile walk along the promenade back to Zarautz, or you can catch a local bus, which will get you there in around ten minutes. The bus runs every 10 to 20 minutes and costs a little more than a euro.
Evening – Zumaia and its famous flysch formations
The beach and flysch geological formations on the coast around Zumaia
Zumaia. Photo: Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
It will have been a very busy day so far, but there’s one more stop in store for you before you can crash in your bed, and it’s one that will really reward your effort: a visit to the town of Zumaia, just 10 miles west of Zarautz.
A relatively unknown village until very recently, Zumaia used to be somewhere that only Basques visited, and the town’s inhabitants were completely unaccustomed to the waves of tourists that can sometimes overrun placws like San Sebastián or Hondarribia.
But then, something happened: location scouts for HBO’s Game of Thrones TV show discovered the flysch of Zumaia - a unique, millions-of-years-old geological formation that created an incredibly impressive series of cliffs right beside the town. The producers of the TV Show were so impressed by the dramatic landscape that they chose the area as the setting for the show’s Dragonstone fortress. And from that point on, Zumaia became one of the most visited places on the Cantabrian coast.
So, even though it can get really packed with tourists at times, mainly during the summer, visiting the flysch of Zumaia is a a “must-do” in my opinion. And especially after a busy day between Zarautz and Getaria, sitting down by those one-of-a-kind cliffs and watching the sun set beyond them is one of the most unique, remarkable, and rare experiences you can have. So, please, don’t miss the chance to do it.
There are also public 1-to-3-hour boat tours of the flysch, but they typically leave around midday, so if you wanted to join one of those you’d have to change the day’s plan around a bit. In that case, you’d want to visit Zarautz in the morning, head to Zumaia in the early afternoon, and then finish up in Getaria later in the afternoon/early evening.
Overnight in Getaria or Zarautz
Day 6 - A road trip along the Bizkaia Coast
Continuing with the coastal theme from yesterday, today I’ve planned for you to set off on one of the Basque Country’s best drives: the seaside road along the Bizkaia coast, from Mutriku to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Filled with cliffs and coves, beaches, little fishing villages, and great views, this stretch of coastline is among the best in the region. Your final destination for the day is Bilbao, but it’s the journey getting there that’s really special.
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
Morning – Drive the coastal road from Mutriku to Ea
The route that I’ve mapped out below lies entirely along the 70 kilometer stretch of gorgeous coastal road that runs from the town of Deba in the east to San Juan de Gaztelugatze in the west. All along the way you’ll be treated to some of the Basque Country’s loveliest coastal landscapes, as well as a smattering of pretty towns to explore.
I’ve made lots of suggestions below for where to stop, but want to note that the plan is totally flexible, so you can mix this up however you’d like. With that said, here’s what I propose:
Mutriku
Leaving Zumaia behind, your first stop of the day is Mutriku, a colorful little fishing village with a lovely harbor that’s penned in on all sides by cliffs/hills. The setting is gorgeous and the way the houses are built up along the hills is really nice. There’s not much to here but the towns center is very pretty and pleasant to go for a wander, so have a walk around before moving on.
Mutriku. Photo: Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leketio
Next up is Leketio, another coastal town, but this one much larger than the last. Lekeitio is very pretty as well and it also has a couple of large sandy beaches, so if the weather’s good, it’s the perfect place to stop for a swim. If you happen to be there during low tide, I’d suggest heading to Isuntza beach and walking out along the exposed sandbar to the Isla de San Nicolás. As in Mutriku, I’d suggest taking a stroll through town before leaving.
Lekeitio. Photo: Jean Michel Etchecolonea, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ea
Continuing on, the tiny little village of Ea awaits you. The entire town basically consists of two parallel streets straddling a mostly-dry riverbed, but it’s utterly charming. There are lovely old houses on either side, pretty stone bridges connecting the two streets, and a shallow, lagoon-like beach.
The beach is far from one of the best in the region, but it’s really cool because the town actually sits just off the coast in the mouth of a river estuary, so you wouldn’t expect it to have a beach. For me, this is one of the most picturesque maritime villages anywhere in Spain.
An aerial view over Ea. Photo: Etor - Entziklopedia Enblematikoa, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon – Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, Bermeo, Matxitxako, and San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve
For a break from villages, start the afternoon in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve. Located in the Urdaibai estuary, the reserve covers 85 square miles of mountain foothills, meadows, forests, marshlands, and beaches and coves. It’s also a birdwatcher’s paradise.
There is a ton to do here, so it doesn’t make sense to propose a particular plan, but here are some of your options: if you’re a surfer or just want to head to the beach, the beach of Mundaka is famed for its impressive breaks. If you’d rather a hike or walk, there are countless trails, including a 14-kilometer loop trail.
The town of Gernika is also within the reserve’s boundaries, which is famous for the Pablo Picasso painting of the same name that depicts the bombardment of town by Franco during the Spanish Civil War.
A beach in the Urdaibai reserve. Photo: Iker Pereda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bermeo
Continuing just a couple of miles west, you’ll reach the town of Bermeo, which I think is the perfect representation of the Basque Country’s 21st century fishing industry. Still in active fishing town and one of the most important ports in the region, this is youthful and diverse place and you’ll notice influences from all over the world.
It’s also a historic town (almost 1,000 years old), so there are a number of monuments and impressive buildings to check out, like the 14th century cloister, gothic tower, and various churches.
Being a major port, the seafood here is incredibly fresh and there are a ton of excellent restaurants, but my recommendation for a meal would be at Batun-Batun Taberna, a very affordable and down to earth tavern that serves good, hearty meals.
The port in Bermeo. Photo: Alberto-g-rovi, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Cape of Matxitxako and San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
What better way to wrap up the day than with some spectacular coastal views at two of the pearls of the Basque Country: the Cape of Matxitxako and San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and its islets. Stop by the cliffs and the lighthouse of Matxitxako first, from where you’ll have great sea views and a good vantage point Gaztelugatxe, a rocky islet jutting into the ocean and topped by a tiny church.
Enjoy the view and then continue on to the San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and its chapel. Completely surrounded by the ocean and buffeted by wind and waves, this is the place where the fictional Dragonstone in the Game of Thrones TV series was based. If it’s evening by the time you’ve arrived, I’d suggest staying until sunset, because it will likely be one of the best you’ve ever seen. The colors are incredible.
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, with the hermitage atop the headland
Evening - Continue on to Bilbao
You could stay in Bermeo tonight if you just don’t feel like driving anymore, but since you’ll be touring Bilbao all day tomorrow, I think you’re better off getting there tonight. So, hop back in the car and continue on for another 45 minutes to Bilbao.
I’d imagine you’ll be quite tired by the time you arrive, but if you’re still up for exploring, head into the Casco Viejo and enjoy a lively night in the oldest part of the city.
Overnight in Bilbao
Day 7 - Bilbao
And finally, it’s time to explore Bilbao, the cultural, economic, and social capital of the region. There’s far too much to see and do here to fit everything into just one day, so below is a busy plan that covers what I think are the essentials for any good introduction to this city.
The Guggenheim and Nervión River in Bilbao
Plaza Euskadi in downtown Bilbao. Photo: Zarateman, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning – Explore the City Center
In many ways, Bilbao is a city with two different faces: one one hand you have the traditional and historic Casco Antiguo, and on the other is the “modern” and elegant City Center. These two neighborhoods represent very different periods in Bilbao’s history, so the best plan for your day here is to thoroughly explore each of them.
I’d suggest starting in the City Center, which is known as Abandoibarra. This is the area that flourished during the 19th and 20th centuries, when Bilbao became a hub for industry and great riches poured into the city. This part of town is grand and elegant, with broad boulevards, beautiful 19th and 20th century apartment blocks, stately squares, and pretty parks.
The great industrialists of the previous centuries built up this area, showing off their vast wealth, and it still retains all the elegance today. It’s also now the financial and cultural hub of the city, so is a bustling downtown area filled with offices, cultural institutions, restaurants, and everything else you’d expect from a modern city.
Here, why not start off at the Abando Train Station, with its glorious stained glass windows. Have a look around, and then set off down Gran Vía, the main street that runs right through the heart of downtown. That will take you to Federico Moyúa Square, which is the center of the neighborhood and quite pretty, surrounded by 19th century mansions and apartments.
From the square, it’s about a 5-minute walk over to one of the architectureal gems of Bilbao’s city center - La Alhóndiga (now known as Azkuna Zentroa). A repurposed former warehouse, this is now a cultural, social, and recreational center with exhibits, performances, workshops, and even a rooftop pool. It’s the perfect representation of Bilbao’s smart transformation from industrial to cultural hub.
Next up, about 10 minutes away is Parque Doña Casilda Iturrizar, a beautiful 21-acre park filled with lawns, a pond, fountains, and sculptures. The city’s Museum of Fine Arts is right beside the park, as is the the towering Iberdrola Tower.
And finally, we reach the city’s star attraction, the place that put Bilbao on the map: the Guggenheim Museum. An architectural landmark known the world over, this Frank Gehry-designed museum sitting beside the Nervión River is a marvel just to look at, but it also houses a pretty incredible collection of modern and contemporary art. Plan to spend at least a couple of hours to visit the museum.
Afternoon – A wander through the Old Town
Looking out over Bilbao’s Old Town. Photo: dalbera from Paris, France, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Plaza Miguel de Unamuno in the Old Town. Photo: Photo: Mikemod, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
It should easily be lunchtime by the time you leave the museum, and for that I think you should enjoy a traditional meal in the Casco Antiguo. So head to the pedestrianized walkway that runs along the Nervión river and set off on the 20-minute walk to the Old Town.
Along the way, make a quick detour to the 16th century late-gothic San Vicente de Abando church, which is just a couple of blocks back from the river.
Once you reach the Old Town, make a beeline for Iñakiren Taberna, one of the few restaurants in this part of town that old school Bilbaínos would be proud of. This restaurant has no interest in modernity, cool plates, nor fancy innovations. Instead, they offer a chance to experience a traditional meal of the same honest, hearty food that Bilbao’s 19th century factory workers would have devoured after a tough day of work.
After lunch, set off on a tour of the Old Town. Like the other old towns that you’ve already explored over the past week, Bilbao’s is a medieval center of narrow streets, pretty old buildings, and churches, squares, and monuments. It’s just on a larger scale than the others.
I won’t propose a walking tour of this part of town because I don’t think that’s necessary, but here are some of the sights:
The Plaza Nueva, lined with pintxo bars, and Plaza Miguel de Unamuno (my favorite - very impressive)
The 14th century Cathedral de Santiago de Bilbao, on the Plazuela de Santiago, and the 15th century Iglesia de San Antonio, just across the river
The Mercado de la Ribera, a 10,000 square foot covered food market that sits beside the Nervión River. The architecture of the building is reason enough to visit, but the food selection is great too.
Other than those, I’d suggest just getting lost among the maze of weaving little streets, enjoying the atmosphere and the architecture, and of course, stopping for a bite to eat or a drink any time you fancy one.
And if you’re interested in seeing the city from a different vantage point - the river! - there are 1-hour river cruises that depart from the city hall and take you out to the newer parts of town. They have multiple departures per day, with the last one at around 5:00 PM.
Evening – A night on the town
Tonight, your final night in the Basque country, how you spend your evening is entirely up to you. So I’ll again give you a few options, and you just pick what sounds good:
If you like sports, there’s only one option: see if there’s a game on at the San Mamés Stadium, the Cathedral of Spanish football and the home of Athletic Bilbao. Thanks to its working-class spirit, football has always been a fundamental part of Bilbao’s culture, and San Mamés the temple of that religion. So go, catch a game, watch the fans going nuts, and just enjoy the energy. It doesn’t matter if you don’t like or even understand soccer, you’ll still love San Mamés.
If you’re looking for something more cultural, there are two places I quite like: for an alternative vibe, head to Kafé Antzokia, one of the staples of Bilbao’s underground music scene. If you’re more in the mood for something traditional, like a play or some opera, the 19th century and neo-Baroque Teatro Arriaga is a good bet.
And if you’re still hungry, why not splurge and treat yourself to a luxury meal to end the trip. If you’re up for it, make your way to Nerua - a Michelin-star restaurant inside the Guggenheim Museum. Just be sure to book in advance.
And if you want to extend your evening, you already know where to go: the bars, taverns, and lively streets of the Old Town will be waiting for you.
Overnight in Bilbao
More Northern Spain travel info
For more advice on travel in the Basque Country and Northern Spain, check out some of our other guides and itineraries!
Alfonso Nuñez
Spain Expert based in San Sebastián
¡Hola y buenos días! 👋
Hi, I'm Alfonso, and I've been a tour guide and travel consultant here in Spain for the last 18 years. If you're looking for some local advice on your trip, I'd love to help!
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