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I was born in Rio and have lived here for most of my life, so I’m certainly not an unbiased observer when it comes to my city! I’m a proud “Carioca” - the nickname for Rio’s residents -, and although it sounds cheesy, I genuinely think that this city will warm even the coldest of hearts.

Fittingly known as the “Cidade Maravilhosa” (Wonderful City), Rio boasts the best of just about everything: sun, sea, mountains, great food, friendly (and beautiful!) people, and an ever-lively atmosphere. What more can you ask for?!

With over 6 million inhabitants, this is a bustling metropolis that somehow still manages to also be cool and relaxed - “a purgatory of beauty and chaos”, as a famous song says. Owing to its spectacular geographic position, the city is a perfect harmony between natural and urban landscapes: you have the mountains just behind you and the sea in front, with lovely neighborhoods squished in between, stretching out over kilometers of coastline, lagoons, and parks.

Now, as you start to decide where you want to stay in the city to experience all of that, the main thing you need to know is that Rio is divided into a number of different zones, each of which is quite distinct. I’ve written a quick overview of each zone in the section below, so won’t go into detail on them here.

But in general, the South Zone is where most of our main tourist attractions are located - like the Christ the Redeemer statue, Pão de Açúcar, the lagoon, and Copacabana beach - and it’s the area that I recommend for the vast majority of visitors. This is the safest part of the city and it’s also the most pleasant, offering the best access to gorgeous beaches, good accommodation, and lively entertainment. Here, from morning through evening, you’ll find people out jogging in front of the sea and lagoon, hiking on trails, lounging on the beaches, mingling at streetside bars and restaurants, and just enjoying life. It's where you want to be.

Below, I’ve provided detailed descriptions of the 6 neighborhoods that I like the most and which I think are best for visitors. These are the same places that I always recommend to friends when they visit, so you’re getting my honest opinions here.

Let’s have a look!

Table of Contents

Overview of Rio’s layout

*Rio’s four zones: City center (red), Zona Sul (yellow), Zone Norte (blue), and Zona Oeste (green). Photo:* *Nossedotti*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

The city of Rio sprawls over a huge area, encompassing the beachside areas of Zona Sul and Zona Oeste, the city center (which is squished between the mountains and Guanabara Bay), and then many more inland neighborhoods, including a vast zone known as the Zona Norte and Baixada Fluminense.

The Zona Norte (North Zone) begins just to the north of Rio's historic center. It's a very working class area of the city characterized largely by nondescript low-rise urban sprawl. Unfortunately, safety is a serious issue in much of this area and there are no tourist sights, so you’re unlikely to visit. So, at least when considering where to stay, you can ignore it.

Some parts of it (like Tijuca, home to the Maracanã stadium) are actually middle class and perfectly pleasant, but even so, it’s not near beaches, it’s far from other neighborhoods of interest, and safety is a constant concern.

The City Center is Rio’s historic heart and where you’ll find famous attractions like the Selaron stairs, the Lapa arches, the Cathedral, Sambadrome, and more. Concentrated in a small area along Guanabara Bay, these neighborhoods do not offer beach access, but are where you’re likely to come for bohemian nightlife, Samba, and sightseeing.

Although this is Rio’s oldest neighborhood, little of the colonial architecture remains, and large parts of the center are actually a commercial downtown, with high rise office buildings and streets dedicated entirely to markets and stores selling everyday goods.

The Zona Sul (South Zone) is Rio’s traditional wealthy and upper middle class area, and it stretches southwest from the city center out to the upscale residential neighborhood of São Conrado. The area is squished between the Atlantic Ocean and mountains, with the enormous Rodrigo de Freitas lagoon in the middle.

Famed coastal neighborhoods like Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon are here, as well as upscale residential areas like Gavea and Lagoa, which sit just off the coast and around the lagoon.

The Zona Oeste (West Zone) is Rio’s newest area, stretching west along the coast from Sao Conrado through Barra da Tijuca, and on to the city’s limits. Rio’s best and cleanest beaches are out here and the neighborhoods along the water are expensive, popular with Rio’s novos ricos or “new rich”. Inland, most of the area is working class and hardscrabble.

You’re unlikely to come out here unless going to a beach or hiking Pedra da Gavea or Pedra do Telegrafo.

Summary of my 6 recommended neighborhoods

Because of its unusual layout and unfortunate safety concerns, Rio de Janeiro can be a pretty tricky place to figure out for first-time visitors. With that in mind, all of my recommendations are in the South Zone, which is the safest, most pleasant, and best connected area.

It’s also where I live, and there’s no part of the city that I’d rather be in. To me, the South Zone is the heart of Rio, where our best beaches, main attractions, and finest restaurants are located. It's where you're likely to spend the vast majority of your time while here.

Here’s a quick look a the 6 neighborhoods that I like best:

1. Leblon (red on the map)

The safest neighborhood in Rio, Leblon is wealthy and sophisticated but not in a snobby way. It’s a place where everything seems elegant and casual at the same time, giving off an air of rather effortless cool. It’s far enough from the crowds to be relatively calm, but still close enough to all the best that Rio has to offer: wonderful beaches with a mountain backdrop, great shopping, fine dining, and excellent accommodation.

All this in a gorgeous residential neighborhood that’s walking distance to everything you’ll want or need.

2. Ipanema (green on the map)

Just beside Copacabana (the bright, shiny neighborhood full of tourists), but a bit less touristy, Ipanema is generally where famous people stay when visiting Rio. The chic spirit is everywhere here: at the fancy restaurants, exclusive bars, and high-end designer stores - some Brazilian, others international -. Directly between the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon and sea, the neighborhood offers great access to both jogging trails and very nice beaches. It also has good transportation links.

3. Botafogo/Flamengo (purple on the map)

If you’re on a budget, Botafogo and Flamengo are always my recommendation. A very local part of town, these two adjacent neighborhoods have great bars and restaurants (without the tourist prices!) and excellent public transit connections. Lodging here is very affordable as well, and the vibe is local and down to Earth. And the stunning views of Pão de Açúcar mountain and the Christ the Redeemer statue don’t hurt either.

Flamengo feels a bit more traditionally Carioca (typical of Rio), whereas Botafogo has gentrified more and feels a little more international and hipster. Both are really nice.

4. Santa Teresa (pink on the map)

A charming hilltop neighborhood near Rio's center, Santa Teresa has a bohemian character, historic architecture, stunning city views, and great dining options. Another local area, prices here are excellent and just about everything is geared toward residents rather than tourists, providing for an authentic Rio experience.

I would put the neighborhood higher on this list, but it has a few drawbacks that I think make it a less sure choice: it’s hilly and requires lots of steep walks, public transportation is limited (especially at night), and it’s farther from the beach. If you stay here, you’ll need to regularly use Uber/taxis.

5. Gávea (blue on the map)

This is where I live, and it’s a lovely residential neighborhood that offers a less touristy perspective of Rio. Next to Leblon, but far from tourists, Gávea is the academic and intellectual stronghold of the city. It’s an insanely charming neighborhood, with art galleries, restaurants and bars, and awesome nightlife on Thursday nights!

6. Jardim Botânico (yellow on the map)

For nature lovers, Jardim Botânico is a great choice. It’s a calm and and peaceful neighborhood surrounded by parks and gardens, the main one of which is the Botanical Garden, a 140-hectare paradise of biodiversity with over 8,000 plant species, ancient trees, and rare botanical collections. Here, you can breath fresh air and listen to the birds chirping while sitting down to meals at wonderful, local restaurants.

The public transit connections are poor though, and the neighborhood is much quieter than other areas (that’s the tradeoff for all the nature), so if you stay here, make sure to choose a hotel near Jardim Botânico street. That’s where most of the action is and it has the best access to transit.

1. Leblon

Pros: Beachside, sophisticated but relaxed, leafier and calmer streets, great shopping and fine dining, good public transport

Cons: Prices for everything are inflated, doesn’t really give you a look at everyday Carioca life

*Leblon, stretching on to Ipanema in the background (the latter half of the beach). Photo:* *Arne Müseler / www.arne-mueseler.com*, *CC BY-SA 3.0 DE, via Wikimedia Commons*

People walking down the sidewalk on Avenida Atlantica with the beach to the left, apartments on the right, and Morro dois Irmaos mountain visibile in the distance in the neighborhood of Leblon in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil — *Leblon's "calçadão” sidewalk along Avenida Atlantica and the beach*

If this is your first time in Rio, there’s nowhere better than Leblon for getting an introduction to the city. Our absolute safest neighborhood, this is an upscale, beachfront area that’s super popular with wealthy Cariocas and expats.

Wedged between the sea in front and the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon behind, this is an elegant and beautiful, yet unpretentious part of Rio and no matter where you stay here, you’ll be just a hop away from the beach, walking and jogging trails, and great restaurants and bars.

The lifestyle and beach access are probably the most appealing aspects of the neighborhood, but the blend that it offers between residential calm and commercial activity is also really nice. You’ll find everything you need here for daily life, with plenty of supermarkets, two big shopping malls - Leblon Shopping and Rio Design Leblon -, lots of little parks, and a never-ending array of places to eat and drink. For excellent dining, leafy Rua Dias Ferreira has many great options.

As you head down toward the beach, you’ll find waterfront workout areas (great for people watching even if you don’t want to get a workout in), jogging and cycling paths, and a boardwalk that stretches on seemingly forever. From the beach, you’ll have great views of the Morro Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers Mountain), which you can also hike up for one of the best views in the world.

When it comes to getting around the city, Leblon is one of the best-connected neighborhoods. There are two metro stops (Antero de Quental and Jadrim de Alah), so your hotel will almost always be within a couple of blocks of one of them. You also have great neighborhoods to explore nearby, which are mostly in walking distance: Gávea is just to the northwest, Jardim Botânico to the north, and Ipanema to the east. And since it's on the western edge of the Zona Sul, you're a quick metro ride or cheap taxi to the really excellent beaches and famous hikes in the West Zone.

Just be aware that if you’re after a more bohemian vibe or are on a tight budget, Leblon might not be your cup of tea. It’s a modern neighborhood with lots of recent construction, so doesn’t offer much in the way of quaint charm. It’s also pretty expensive, both for hotels (many of the city’s best are here) and restaurants/bars. Keep in mind, this is the city’s fanciest neighborhood, and the prices here reflect that. A beer at a modest bar here will cost you more than at a nice place in Santa Teresa, for instance.

I think the atmosphere, incredible beach access, and convenience that Leblon offers more than justify the “elevated” prices, but you’ll have to decide that for yourself.

Where to stay

JANEIRO Hotel - This 5-star hotel on Leblon's beachfront is absolutely amazing! You have breathtaking, unobstructed views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Two Brothers Mountain, made even better by a rooftop infinity pool. $350 USD

Promenade Palladium Leblon - Promenade Palladium is a nice 4-star property just 400 meters from Leblon Beach. Its location is excellent, on a very residential street, allowing you to get the perfect local experience. It also has a good pool! $200 USD.

Sheraton Grand Rio - Located just west of Leblon and at the foot of Morro Dois Irmãos mountain (and the Vidigal favela that hugs its slopes), the Sheraton is a longstanding classic. Although the mention of being close to a favela scares some people, Vidigal is a mostly safe place (and one that is actually sort of gentrifying) and the Sheraton is totally separated from it anyways. Here, you get an oceanfront pool, essentially a private beach, and giant rooms with gorgeous sea views. The downside is that there's nothing around you and you'll need to take a taxi even just to get to Leblon. $175 USD.

Ritz Leblon - Located just 200 meters from Leblon Beach and a couple blocks from the Antero de Quental Metro Station, the rooms here are spacious and modern. You also have a decent gym and a nice pool for lounging after the beach. There are lots of bars, restaurants, and cafes all around. Despite the name, it is 100% not part of the Ritz-Carlton hotel group. $150 USD.

Leblon Design Hotel - 3 blocks off the beach on leafy Rua Dias Ferreira (the neighborhood's best street for dining), the rooms here are simple, but very modern, clean, and comfortable. It's a good budget option. $110 USD.

Apartment options - Clicking the link to the left will take you to a map of the Leblon neighborhood with highly rated apartments already selected.

2. Ipanema

Pros: Center of everything, great beach, tons of good restaurants and bars, good public transit

Cons: Very touristy, accommodation and restaurants are expensive

*The beach at Posto 7 in Ipanema. Photo:* *Sailko*, *CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

The intersection of Rua Visconde de Pirajá and Rua Farme de Amoedo in Ipanema in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil — *The intersection of Rua Visconde de Pirajá and Rua Farme de Amoedo in Ipanema*

Located between Leblon and Copacabana, staying in Ipanema puts you right in the middle of two very different worlds: posh, but mostly local Leblon, and crowded and very touristy Copacabana. A unique neighborhood, this is another wealthy area that offers some interesting contrasts. The best example of this is the hippie market (where you’ll find mostly art and handicrafts) that takes place every Sunday at General Osório square, basically sharing space with the most luxurious stores in the city, like Louis Vuitton and Hérmès.

It’s an interesting mix, but I guess you could just say that Ipanema is great for shopping, no matter your style or budget!

I like Ipanema a lot, in part because despite being a popular tourist area, it’s still very much a real neighborhood. On the streets away from the beach you’ll find all types of stores, from clothing and cosmetics to home design/furnishing, as well as theaters for the performing arts, galleries and cultural centers, and even a university.

Of course, the neighborhood’s star attraction is Ipanema Beach, which has been voted the 2nd best beach in the world, and with good reason: clear, clean water, golden sand, and spectacular sunset views. For the best of those, be sure to head over to Pedra do Arpoador (in the beachfront Garota de Ipanema park), where you can sit together with the crowd and applaud the magnificent sunset. It’s a kind of weird, but fun tradition.

When at the beach, which is entirely public - you can lay down your towel wherever you want -, be aware that various types of groups occupy different sections. Post 10 is always filled with people playing beach sports, Post 9 is famous for being the hub for students, intellectuals, and “counter culture”, the stretch between 9 and 8 is a favorite of the LGBTQ+ crowd, post 8 is where people coming from surrounding neighborhoods often hang out, and post 7 is very popular with surfers.

While lounging in the sand, make sure to ask for a “Mate Leão” and “Biscoito Globo”, the classic combination of an iced tea and a dry, crisp, very airy cookie. It’s the perfect thing to sip and munch on while basking in the sun.

Ipanema has great access to public transit, with lots of buses and two subway stations: General Osório and Nossa Senhora da Paz. But I think the best way to get around, at least to the adjacent neighborhoods, is by renting a bike (there are lots of shops renting them out) a lot of spots on the streets) and cruising along the protected path on the waterfront, which stretches all the way from Leblon, through Ipanema, and on to the far eastern end of Copacabana.

Every Sunday, the street along the beach is entirely closed down to cars, and people flood out onto it to bike, walk, rollerblade, and jog. It’s really fun.

Where to stay

Hotel Fasano - With an unbeatable location by Arpoador rock and the most elegant rooms of any hotel along Rio's beachfront, the Fasano is an obvious choice if you have the budget for it. The rooftop pool offers one of the best sunset views in Rio and the location puts you walking distance to the centers of both Ipanema and Copacabana. $500-700 USD.

Hotel Arpoador - One of my favorite mid-range hotels in the city. The rooms are big, bright, and airy (many with sea views) and the whole place feels beachy, but with a touch of class. The location directly in front of Arpoador rock is also great. $200 USD.

Sol Ipanema - With a superb beachfront location along Avenida Atlantica and Ipanema Beach, this hotel has a sunny rooftop and pool with great views of the coast. Rooms are pleasant and spacious. $120-200 USD.

Hotel Vermont - A solid option 2 blocks off the beach on Rua Visconde de Pirajá, a nice and busy street. The location is great for getting around, with the Nossa Senhora da Paz and General Osorio metro stops each just a block away. Rooms are simple, but comfortable. $100 USD.

Bossa Nova Ipanema - Located 300 meters off Ipanema Beach, this is a 4-star hotel from Best Western. The décor is ultramodern and very nicely updated. It's a good deal. $90 USD.

Atlantis Copacabana Hotel - The name of this hotel has Copacabana in it, but it's actually in Ipanema. The rooms are simple, but modern and there's a decent rooftop and pool with sea views. An added bonus - the hotel offers beach service where they provide chairs, umbrellas, and the possibility to order food/drink. $75 USD.

Injoy Lofts & Studios - If you're looking for an apartment instead of a hotel, the nicely renovated apartments here are a good option. They're in front of the lagoon, so a few blocks away from the beach, but near the metro and in a pleasant part of the neighborhood. $65 USD.

Apartment options - Clicking the link to the left will take you to a map of the Ipanema neighborhood with highly rated apartments already selected.

3. Botafogo/Flamengo

Pros: Great place to see and experience authentic Carioca life, busy and fun, beachfront and close to the city center, affordable, good transit connections

Cons: The beaches are not ones you really want to swim at

*Botafogo, its namesake beach, and Pão de Açucar across the bay. Photo:* *Halley Pacheco de Oliveira*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Looking out at Botafogo from Sugarloaf. Photo:* *chensiyuan*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

For anyone who wants to really avoid tourist crowds and have a more down to Earth experience, Botafogo and Flamengo are always my recommendation. Still located in the South Zone but much closer to downtown (the city center), these two adjacent neighborhoods are pleasant middle class areas that few tourists visit. That’s their loss though! There are lots of advantages to staying in this part of Rio, but I think there are three mains ones.

First, their location is superb: you’re still right on the beach, but also have easy access to the main attractions on both sides of the city (South Zone and City Center), and you're right next to Pão de Açúcar. There’s also great metro and bus connections in both neighborhoods - a 15-20 minute metro ride will bring you to the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema or the city center.

Second, the prices are excellent! You'll find much better value for money here, with more affordable lodging and plenty of reasonably priced restaurants. These neighborhoods are priced for the locals who live in them, so you won’t find prices inflated at all. There’s also good nightlife, in part because regular people can afford the drinks, so they’re always out bar hopping.

And finally, this is the place to have an authentic local experience of regular Carioca life.

It’s also very safe, with well-lit streets and constant foot traffic in the main areas (sometimes maybe even too much - it gets busy). Botafogo in particular has good nightlife, with lots of cool botecos, live music bars, and cocktail spots.

If you’re looking to stay active during your trip, Botafogo and Flamengo make great choices as their beachfronts form what is called “Aterro do Flamengo'‘, a huge park with walking, jogging, and cycling paths behind the beach. As an added bonus, you'll have views of Suar Loaf while you exercise! In addition to the paths, you also have sports fields/courts, lots of free exercise equipment, restaurants, and even a theater and museum.

The nearby hills, such as Morro da Urca, have some good hiking trails too, and the Mirante Dona Marta lookout (a little ways away) provides incredible panoramic views.

There isn’t much of a downside to staying here, but if I had to pick something it would be that the beaches of Botafogo and Flamengo are within Guanabara Bay, meaning that they have a reputation for being polluted and I wouldn't necessarily recommend swimming in them. Botafogo's main street, Voluntários da Pátria, also has very narrow sidewalks that can be kind of unpleasant to walk along. There’s always lots of traffic too, so be prepared for a fair deal of street noise.

When it comes to getting around, Flamengo has three metro stops, Botafogo has one, and buses crisscross both neighborhoods. You’ll have lots of options.

Where to stay

Yoo2 Rio by Hilton - Really the only luxury option in the area, this is everything you'd expect from a nice Hilton. Directly in front of Botafogo beach, most of the spacious and modern rooms offer views of either Sugar Loaf or Christ the Redeemer, and the rooftop pool is great. $175 USD.

Windsor Florida - The Windsor hotel group has a number of hotels around Rio, most of them in Copacabana. They're all pretty nice and their Flamengo option (this hotel) is no exception. The location is half a block from the Catete metro stop and one block from Flamengo's beach. The rooms are pleasant and the rooftop pool is a nice bonus. It's excellent value. $80 USD.

ibis Rio de Janeiro Botafogo - One of two Ibis hotels in Botafogo, it's like pretty much every other ibis in the world: simple, but functional. The location of this one (in the middle of the neighborhood) is very good; it's close to lots of bars and restaurants and just a block from the Botafogo metro stop. $75 USD.

ibis Styles Rio de Janeiro Botafogo - The other Ibis hotel! This one is just off of Botafogo Beach, so a good option if you want to go for a jog or walk in the mornings. $75 USD.

Injoy Suítes & Aparts - Very nice serviced apartments and studios in a central part of Botafogo. $60 USD.

Hotel Regina - One block from the Catete metro stop and Flamengo beach, the Hotel Regina has always been one of my favorite budget options in the city. The rooms have been nicely renovated, the AC always works, breakfast is good, the staff is friendly, and the neighborhood is local, pleasant, and safe. $50 USD.

Apartments options - Clicking the link to the left will take you to a map of the Botafogo neighborhood with highly rated apartments already selected. For apartments in Flamengo, click here.

4. Santa Teresa

Pros: Local vibe, close to the city center and tourist attractions, historic architecture, affordable

Cons: Far from the beach, no metro stop

*One of Santa Teresa’s iconic trams in Largo do Curvelo. Photo:* *Henrique Freire / GovRJ*, *CC BY 3.0 BR, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Rua Almirante Alexandrino, leading out to Largo dos Guimarães. Photo:* *Fulviusbsas*, *CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped*

I couldn’t possibly leave Santa Teresa off my list. It's a charmingly bohemian and historic hilltop neighborhood located very near Rio’s city center.

The neighborhood sits on a hill behind the three neighborhoods of Flamengo, Gloria, and the city center. If you walk down its steep, winding streets, you'll wind up at the Selaron stairs and the nightlife center of Lapa. The area is famous for its casual nightlife which spills out onto the streets every day of the week.

While here, it's must to take a ride on the yellow tram (“bonde”) and explore the many amazing viewpoints, from which you can see stunning landscapes of Rio (hope it’s a sunny day!).

Staying in Santa Teresa puts you near tourist attractions in the city center (Selaron Steps, Museu do Amanhã, the Cathedral, etc.), Lapa's excellent nightlife, and not far away from Sugar Loaf. Hotel prices are quite reasonable too!

Traditionally a favorite neighborhood for middle and upper middle class intellectuals, academics, and artists, its fabulous views, bohemian atmosphere, and historic homes have more recently made it very popular with expats and digital nomads. In the past few years, more than a few boutique hotels have opened in beautifully renovated mansions.

Santa Teresa is a gastro hub, and beloved botecos like Bar do Mineiro and Bar do Gomes (officially known as Armázem São Thiago) have been around for decades and are great places to mingle, eat, have a drink, and catch some excellent live samba. As the neighborhood has gentrified, these historic places now share real estate with cool cocktail bars and innovative restaurants - for a good meal with a great view, don't miss Aprazível.

Most of the nightlife and restaurants are concentrated around Largo dos Guimarães square. There are also a fair number of little galleries, artists’ studios, and cool boutiques spread throughout the neighborhood.

Two important things to keep in mind are that there is no metro stop in the neighborhood and you have no beach access. It's a long walk to any of the nearby lower neighborhoods that do have metro stations and from any of them it's an additional 20-30 minutes ride to the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema. If you stay here, you will need to plan on using taxis/ubers fairly frequently.

And while the neighborhood itself is perfectly safe, it is ringed by a number of favelas so you need to be aware of where you are going when descending into places like Flamengo and the city center. In general, I recommend taking a taxi or the tram when entering and leaving.

Where to stay

MGallery Santa Teresa Hotel - If you have the budget for it, there's no point even thinking about it - just stay here! Set in an outrageously beautifully renovated mansion, the rooms feel like a mix between a hotel and a tree house. The commons areas are delightful, the hotel restaurant is good, the pool area is fabulous, and you have on-site spa and wellness facilities. $300 USD.

Casa Geranio - About halfway up the hill from Lapa, this is one of Rio's best boutique hotels and everything is stylish and very chic. The rooms are a delight and the pool, which offers views over the city center, feels like a lush, verdant oasis. In case I haven't made it obvious enough, I really like it. $175 USD.

Gerthrudes Bed & Breakfast - In a great spot in between the busy areas of Largo dos Guimaraes and Largo do Curvelo, but far enough removed so to be quiet, this B&B is set inside of a gorgeous renovated mansion. The décor is elegant, but very traditionally Brazilian, and it all feels fashionable and "breezy". The garden area and pool is great and the dining room has absolutely killer views. $90 USD.

Sant' Martre - This intimate little hotel has cute and modern rooms along with a nice terrace offering panoramic views of the city and the mountains. The location, just a few minutes away from all the bars and restaurants of Largo dos Guimaraes, is very good. $80 USD.

Lobie Armazém São Joaquim - In the middle of Largo dos Guimaraes square at the confluence of three streets filled with bars and restaurants, this is a great budget option for anyone looking to enjoy the area's nightlife. The rooms are small, but well done and the common areas are very social. Not a good choice for light sleepers, however. $70 USD.

Sugar Loft Apartments - This is a very good option for anyone who wants to stay in an apartment, not a hotel. Set in a building from the 1930s, it's since been completely modernized. It offers beautiful views and has a good location halfway up Santa Teresa's hill. $70 USD.

Residencial Santa Teresa - Located 400 meters up from the Selaron Steps (so not really in Santa Teresa to be honest), this is a solid budget option with both shared and private rooms. $25 USD.

Apartments options - Clicking the link to the left will take you to a map of the Santa Teresa neighborhood with highly rated apartments already selected.

5. Gàvea

Pros: Really fun and lively neighborhood, lots of art and culture, great restaurants, plenty of greenery

Cons: Not on the beach, public transportation isn’t great, few hotel options

Aerial view of the Jockey Club/Hipódromo race track in Gávea — *The Jockey Club/Hipódromo race track in Gávea. Photo:* *Arne Müseler / www.arne-mueseler.com*, *CC BY-SA 3.0 DE, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Gavea's Instituto Moreira Salles, with Pedra da Gávea rising behind it. Photo:* *Halley Pacheco de Oliveira*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

My beloved little slice of Rio, this is my neighborhood and it’s a place that I find to be absolutely charming. I can’t described how pleasant it is to start and end every day here, wandering along its tree-lined streets and breathing in the fresh air.

Just to the northwest of Leblon and right beneath Jardim Botânico, this is a lovely, residential, and very local neighborhood that’s a bit removed from the beach. We locals typically consider it as two separate halves, affectionately calling the lower part Baixo Gávea, and the upper part Alto Gávea.

The upper part is much quieter, whereas Baixo is where you’ll find all the activity: restaurants for all budgets, great rooftop bars with fun music and live Samba, and streets filled with life. Every Thursday night, the neighborhood really comes alive, as people flood out into the streets and squares, grabbing drinks and mingling with their friends and whoever they bump into.

All within a few blocks of Baixo Gávea, you have supermarkets, restaurants, a big shopping center (Shoping da Gávea), a university, and art galleries, theaters (like Teatro Clara Funes and Teatro Prio), and cinemas. If you’re looking for some culture during your time in Rio, this is where you’ll find it.

There are too many good restaurants to name even a fraction of them, but I’d be remiss if I didn’t suggest that you have a meal at Braseiro da Gávea, which is always a highlight and one of my favorite places in Rio for Brazilian food.

Up in Alto Gavea, at the top of Marquês de São Vicente Street, you can't miss the Moreira Sales Institute. The former residence of the ambassador and businessman Walther Moreira Salles, it’s one of Rio's most important cultural spaces. The institute’s gardens are incredible and unmissable. It’s a great place to go for a walk, grab a good coffee, and see their handpicked exhibitions and rich art collection. It’s a source of pride for the whole city.

And just to the north is the Parque da Cidade, a very nice park surrounded by mountains and filled with palm trees, fruit trees, and some rare species, like the “Pau-Brasil” trees. There’s a nice lake in the park as well as a museum with an interesting collection of historical photographs, maps, and objects from the end of the 19th century.

As I said above, Gávea is not on the beach, but it’s an easy 20-minute walk down to Praia do Leblon, or an even quicker bike ride (my preferred means of transportation). There’s also no metro stop here, so public transportation is limited to buses. Not the best area for ease of getting around, be ready to take some Ubers/taxis.

Where to stay

As I mentioned before, Gávea is a residential neighborhood, so there are no hotels in it. With that in mind, I’ve instead selected comfortable and well-located apartments.

2 bedroom with killer balcony - A great 2 bedroom apartment in a quiet part of the neighborhood with a fantastic balcony. $150 USD.

Cute 1 bedroom - Simple, but pleasant and super new, the main appeal of this apartment is its location directly on the border with Leblon. You're only a 15 minute walk from here to the beach. $90 USD.

2 bedroom with Christ the Redeemer views - Charming 2 bedroom with views of Christ the Redeemer from the living room. Very well located in the center of the neighborhood. $70 USD.

6. Jardim Botântico

Pros: Very local, quiet, filled with parks and green spaces

Cons: Not on the beach, farther from other neighborhoods, no hotel options, lack of public transit

*Rua Lopes Quintas in Jardim Botânico. Photo:* *Eduardo P*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Rua Corcovado. Photo:* *Eduardo P*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Before moving to Gávea, I lived in Jardim Botânico for five years and the thing I most like about it is that the neighborhood is an oasis of calm inside busy Rio. Even the air here feels different! Tucked between gardens and parks, Jardim Botânico borders the enormous Tijuca National Park, Tijuca mountains, Parque Lage, Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, and the Botanical Gardens from which it gets its name.

This is a very safe and comfortable area of the city, and it’s no exaggeration to call it the green lungs of Rio. If you were dropped down here without being told where you were, you’d probably think you were in a pleasant little city in the middle of a bucolic countryside, not a central neighborhood of Rio’s South Zone.

A fun little bonus of staying here is that you’ll constantly have phenomenal views of the Christ the Redeemer statue - in my case, I could see it from my balcony, and it was indeed a lovely view to have every day. Jardim Botânico puts you close to lovely nature tourist attractions, the Botanical Garden, Parque Lage (a romantic mansion-turned-art school located in Rio's tropical forest, with Christ the Redeemer towering above) and the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon.

I briefly mentioned Palácio Parque Lage above, but I want to expand on it a bit because it’s a spot I really love. This is a 50-hectare park that surrounds a gorgeous Italian-style mansion with a very romantic history (look it up!). There’s also a restaurant, some nice trails, and a little gallery.

Like Gàvea, Jardim Botânico is not on the water, and being farther to the north, it’s even more removed from the beaches and other South Zone neighborhoods. There’s no metro here, so your only option for public transportation will be buses. Of course, Uber and taxis are always available and inexpensive, and the ride takes around 10 minutes.

If you stay somewhere along or near Jardim Botânico street (the main thoroughfare), you’ll be walking distance to everything in the neighborhood and will have a few options for buses, which will take you into Leblon, Ipanema, and other parts of the city like Botafogo, Flamengo, Santa Teresa, and the city center itself.

Where to stay

As with Gávea, Jardim Botânico has no hotels either, so all the options here are short-term apartment rentals. Here are a few nice ones:

4 bedroom by Parque Lage - Located on a quiet back street right next to Parque Lage, this is a great option for larger groups or a family with kids. The proximity to the park is the main appeal, but the apartment has also been very nicely renovated. $150 USD.

2 bedroom apartment - Modern and immaculately clean 2 bedroom in the middle of the neighborhood. $110 USD.

Condomínio Pratik - Brand new studios and 1 bedroom apartments. The location is great: you're on Jardim Botanico's main street and all on the same block you have a pharmacy, a SmartFit gym, a supermarket, 2 banks, lots of restaurants, and a couple of casual bars. $80-120 USD.

3 bedroom with Lagoa view - This nice 3 bedroom apartment is located in what I'd actually call the Lagoa neighborhood, but it's basically the same as Jardim Botanico. It's right next to the wonderful Parque Lage park and, located on a high floor, has views over the lagoon and out to the sea. It's also a really good price. $80 USD.

1 bedroom by Botanical Garden - Half a block from the Botanical Garden this one bedroom is a basic, but clean and comfortable place. It's a good budget option. $65 USD.

Where to Stay in Rio de Janeiro - A Local’s Neighborhood Guide

Overview of Rio’s layout

Summary of my 6 recommended neighborhoods

1. Leblon

Where to stay

2. Ipanema

Where to stay

3. Botafogo/Flamengo

Where to stay

4. Santa Teresa

Where to stay

5. Gàvea

Where to stay

6. Jardim Botântico

Where to stay

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