Where to Stay in Bilbao - A Local’s Guide
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How can I define Bilbao? How, in just a few sentences, can I distill the essence of this city so that you can understand its multifaceted spirit? I don’t know that I can, but to put it in as few words as possible, I would say that Bilbao is a chameleon of sorts, and it’s a place that adapts itself to meet the interests of every kind of visitor.
It’s a working class capital but also landmark of modern culture and architecture in Spain and southern Europe. It holds Spain’s cathedral to soccer, the San Mamés stadium, but is also the reference for any and every type of cultural event happening in northern Spain. An economic and financial center, there’s a strong business culture here, yet the city also has one of the most exciting and eclectic nightlife scenes in the country.
So, what does this mean for you as you try to decide where to base yourself here? Well, depending on where you stay, you’ll experience a very different atmosphere, as the neighborhoods in town are quite distinct.
Bilbao densely packs in its 350,000 residents along the banks of the Nervión River, and while almost everywhere is within walking distance no matter where you choose to stay, what you’ll find in each neighborhood varies greatly.
Keep reading below and you’ll find out what each one is like and what it has to offer visitors!
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Overview of the city’s layout
Bilbao's 8 districts. Photo: Fernandopascullo, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
As you begin trying to get your bearings in the city, the most essential reference point is the ría - the estuary of the Nervión River -, which acts as the town’s backbone and cuts right through the middle of it.
The city has grown up and expanded along the banks of the river, basically constantly extending outwards along it, moving ever closer toward the sea as the population has increased.
Wondering why it hugs so closely to the river? Well, there are two main reasons:
Steep hills rise up on either side of the river, making it extremely difficult to develop in any other direction.
The neighboring seaside port, just 10 miles up the river, has always been the city’s main economic driver, so being close to the port was historically of paramount importance. With that in mind, the city never had any incentive to develop in any direction other than along the river and toward the sea.
This all means that the neighborhoods are densely packed right alongside river, making Bilbao a very narrow city. It’s a place where going from one neighborhood to the next basically just means walking along the river (or crossing over it from one side to the other).
Now that you have a basic understanding for the city’s layout, we can move on to its 8 districts, which are the official designations for the various areas of the city. Keep in mind, each of the districts has neighborhoods within them, which I will mention throughout this article.
These are the districts:
District 1 - Deusto
District 2 - Uribarri
District 3 - Otxarkoaga-Churdínaga
District 4 - Begoña
District 5 - Ibaiondo
District 6 - Abando
District 7 - Errekalde
District 8 - Basurto-Zorroza
My 4 recommended districts/neighborhoods
Where you stay in Bilbao should likely be determined by three things: your budget, the type of accommodation you prefer, and the neighborhood atmosphere that you’re after.
While in many cities, proximity to the center and ease of transportation would often be another major consideration, Bilbao is not especially large and it’s very densely packed in, so distances here are never all that great. Many of the main sights and neighborhoods are within easy walking distance of each other, so much of the time you can just get around on foot.
And when you do need to move longer distances, the city has a pretty comprehensive public transit network, with many bus routes and a good metro system.
So, what I’m saying is that you can choose your base here almost entirely according to budget considerations, accommodation preferences, and/or the neighborhood vibe that you find most appealing.
As I covered above, there are 8 districts in the city, but some of them don’t really make sense for most travelers (especially not first-time visitors), so we can discount a few of them entirely: the ones I would suggest forgetting about are: Otxarkoaga-Churdínaga (District 3), Errekalde (District 7), and Basurto-Zorroza (District 8).
Below is a very quick overview of the 4 districts that I do recommend:
1. Ibaiondo (District 5) - The historic center. Atmospheric but expensive
Located in the southeast part of la ría (the river) and expanding over both sides of it, Ibaiondo is the city’s most traditional area in terms of architecture, cuisine, nightlife, and culture. Its the part of town where Basque roots can still be felt in every corner.
The district houses the historic neighborhoods of Casco Viejo, La Vieja, and San Frantzisko, which are the 3 oldest parts of the city. Crisscrossed by narrow little streets that are jam-packed with shops and restaurants (most of which serve traditional Basque food), this is a chance to see old-world Bilbao as it used to be.
Accommodation is of course expensive though, and it can be very touristy.
2. Begoña (District 4) - A local area offering more affordable access to the Old Town
Located southeast of Ibaiondo, moving down the river away from the sea and the rest of the city, you’ll find this traditionally working class neighborhood. Distinctly less fancy than more central and popular districts, Begoña is a good inexpensive base from where you can get a feel for down to earth local life while still being in very close proximity to the Old Town.
The Santutxu neighborhood is a popular spot and probably where you’ll want to stay. The district definitely won’t wow you with its beauty, but if you’re on a budget and want to be centrally located, it’s a good option.
3. Abando (District 6) - The place for anyone in search of elegance, modern architecture, and big city life
Although this district is just to the northwest of Ibaiondo (the historic part of town), it feels a world apart. I know that sounds cliché, but Abando genuinely offer an entirely different experience.
Covering the west bank of the river, this is the city’s downtown, and it’s a completely modern area that holds Bilbao’s main streets and boulevards, its most elegant architecture (as well as its most contemporary), and many renowned monuments and institutions: the Guggenheim Museum, La Alhóndiga, the Iberdrola Tower, and the Campos Elíseos theater.
The accommodation options here are extensive, and the prices are in keeping with what you’d expect from the modern center of a big city (not cheap). The neighborhood of Indautxu, in the west of the district, is probably the most pleasant base.
4. Deusto (District 1) - Full of youthful energy and with great access to the outdoors
Just across the river to the northeast of downtown, Deusto is the center of college life in Bilbao and all of the Basque Country. Housing the University of Deusto and some departments of the Universidad del Pais Vasco, the neighborhood is filled with young people and its streets are always bustling with life, with people hopping around the bars, grabbing a meal with friends at inexpensive restaurants, or just wandering about.
Situated right at the base of the foothills of the mountains that rise to the east of the city, it also has lots of parks, great access to the outdoors, and incredible views over the rest of town.
Accommodation options are mostly inexpensive as well.
Quick note about Uribarri (district 2): As you may have noticed, the list above includes 3 neighborhoods that I don’t recommend and 4 that I do, which totals only 7 out of the 8 districts of the city. That’s because Uribarri, the only district that I didn’t address, can basically be lumped in with Abando, as it’s just across the river and has essentially the same appeals.
It’s a little bit quieter and more residential though, so if you prefer to be close to downtown but not right within it, Uribarri is an excellent choice.
Below is a more detailed overview of each of these districts/neighborhoods
Ibaiondo (District 5)
Recommended neighborhoods: Casco Viejo, La Vieja, San Frantzisko
A square in the Old Town. Photo: Mikemod, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
Defining the district of Ibaiondo in only a few words is actually very easy: because if Bilbao had a heart, it would be Ibaiondo. This district comprised of the city’s oldest neighborhoods is where Bilbao was born centuries ago, and its narrow streets, traditional taverns, historic buildings, and many cultural venues and events still keep the city’s spirit alive.
Found in the south of the city and spreading over both sides of the Nervión river, this area is perfectly connected by metro or bus with just about everywhere else in town.
It is completely distinct to any other area thanks to its tight, atmospheric streets, historic architecture (such as Santiago’s Cathedral), and the feel of being very connected to the original Basque way of life.
Although historically the home of artisans and middle-class residents, Ibaiondo has recently become very popular with visitors, so today it offers a mix of old families who have lived here for decades (or longer!) and crowds of foreigners, especially during the summer.
The area known as the “Seven Streets” (Zazpikaleak, in Basque language) is the most tourist-oriented, with lots of pintxo-bars (some good, some not so much), as well as some crucial spaces that will help you understand the city and region’s culture: those include the Basque Museum and the Archaeological Museum.
Meanwhile, the historically working-class areas of Bilbao La Vieja and San Frantzisko, both of which are just across the river from the Seven Streets, are other very interesting areas that offer a much less touristy experience.
San Frantzisko is extremely international, as it’s the area where many immigrants have settled over the last few decades. It can be a bit seedy and a little rundown in parts, but is quite interesting.
And Bilbao La Vieja has lately become one of my favorite places in the city, as artists and young professionals have flocked here and opened up pop-up shops, artists studios, and great underground music venues. It has a definite hipster vibe (and I mean that in a good way).
An aerial view over the old town. Photo: dalbera from Paris, France, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Where to stay
As is usually the case in the historic centers of Spain’s cities, the hotels of the Parte Vieja tend to be small boutiques, hostels, or B&Bs. As you might be able to guess, among narrow streets and ancient buildings, there is just no space for huge hotels.
Bearing this in mind, here are my personal recommendations for accommodation in Bilbao’s old town:
Pensión Ama Bilbao - A basic but well-equipped, comfortable and cozy B&B in the heart of Bilbao’s old town. The price is excellent given the location and quality. ratio quality-price.
Expect to spend about $140 USD per night.
Letoh Letoh Bilbao - This is a great choice if you’re here on business or just have some work to do while in town, as they have very good workspace facilities in addition to pleasant rooms.
Rates from $90 to $200 USD depending on time of year.
NYX Hotel Bilbao by Leonardo Hotels - A 4-star hotel with all the amenities that a place of this caliber is supposed to offer, plus some important extras: like rooms with balcony and views of Bilbao’s ría.
This is definitely a pricier option though, and the rates vary enormously depending on time of year and even the day of the week. You can find a double room for $100 USD on a slow weekend, but that same room can also go up to $300 USD on busy nights.
Hotel Tayko Bilbao - The definite choice for foodies, this lovely, luxurious hotel holds two Michel Star restaurants - Ola and La Bodega de Ola Taverna -, both run by the famed Basque Restaurateur Martin Berasategui.
Expect to spend around $250 USD per night.
2. Begoña (District 4)
Recommended neighborhood: Santutxu
A street in the neighborhood of Santutxu in Begoña. Photo: Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Located just to the southeast of Ibaiondo and its historic neighborhoods, the district of Begoña is an excellent base for anyone who wants to be close enough to quickly walk into Bilbao’s old town, but not be surrounded by other tourists at all times.
Accommodation in Begoña is also much cheaper than in the historic center, so you’ll save quite a bit of money by staying here instead. And since the neighborhood has more space than the old town, you’ll also find larger hotels with better amenities around here.
As for the environment, this is a residential middle class area, with many residents having lived here for decades, and you’ll find a fair deal of families and older folks. It can be pretty quiet, so if you’re after a bit of action, the neighborhood of Santutxu is the liveliest area. It’s probably where you’ll want to base yourself.
There are a few interesting cultural spaces, such as Café Theatre La Nube and Bilbao Eszena, which are very lively, and the surrounding streets are packed with a nice mix of traditional Basque restaurants and global cuinses.
And of course, one of the most important monuments in the city is found here: the Basilica of Begoña. This 500 year old church, dedicated to the patron saint of Biscay (the Virgin Begoña) and beloved by bilbaínos, is the original symbol of the city (before the Guggenheim), so be sure to climb the hill and pay your respects.
As I said above, this area is walking distance from Ibaiondo and the historic center, and it’s also well connected to the rest of the city thanks to an excellent network of buses and the two metro stations of Basarrate and Santutxu.
The Basilica of Begoña. Photo: Alfa.Alfa, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Where to stay
Hotel Sirimiri - Cozy, very-well equipped, and with super friendly staff, this hotel is one of my personal favorites in the city. It lies right at the intersection between the districts of Ibaiondo and Begoña, putting it in very easy walking distance from everywhere in the old town. Also right next to public transportation, it’s a breeze to get anywhere else in the city.
Rates from $70 to $180 USD.
Hotel Gran Bilbao - Surprisingly inexpensive for a riverside 4-star hotel, this is an excellent choice if you want a bit of luxury without really breaking the bank. It is a bit further from the old town though (about a 20-minute walk).
Rates from $110 to $250 USD.
3. Abando (District 6)
Recommended neighborhoods: Indautxu and Abandoibarra
The riverfront and the Guggenheim in the Abando district
Moving up to the northwest from the old town, arriving into Abando is like moving forward in time. Because if the Old Town represents Bilbao’s medieval origins, this neighborhood, the downtown of the city, represents its modernization and the wealth and development that the last 200 years of industrialization have brought here.
Covering the west bank of the River, Abando is where heavy industries first took hold in Bilbao at the end of the 19th century. Spanish companies flocked here and built factories, monumental buildings, and mansions for the wealthy industrialists who owned those enterprises. The area became wealthy, but it was also very industrial up until the end of the 20th century, when the city underwent a massive renovation and facelift.
Nowadays, Abando is the downtown commercial and business center of Bilbao, and it’s also the city’s most affluent and lively zone. An upscale area mostly inhabited by young and middle-aged professionals, the area is characterized by broad avenues filled with high-end shops, elegant buildings (both historic and modern), beautiful parks, and lots of chic restaurants and bars.
This is also where you’ll find some of Bilbao’s most famous monuments and cultural institutions. Here, modern and renowned spaces such as the iconic Guggenheim Museum, the Fine Arts Museum, the Iberdrola Tower, and Doña Casilda Iturrizar Park are mixed in with old relics like La Alhóndiga and the Abando Train Station (with its glorious stained glass).
Well connected to the rest of the city by public transportation, Abando is a pure downtown, big city experience.
You’ll likely want to stay in the western part of the district, mainly in the neighborhood of Indautxu.
Elegant Plaza Moyua. Photo: Alberto-g-rovi, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Where to stay
The Artist Grand Hotel of Art - A luxurious 5-star hotel, this is the place to stay if you want to enjoy the architecture of the Guggenheim Museum (every morning and right from the balcony of your room!). In short, the views are marveouls.
Surprisingly affordable, rates range from $150 to $300 depending on the time of year.
Bilbao City Center by abba Suites - A 4-star hotel just across the river from the district of Abando, you’ll be close enough to walk right over to the Guggenheim Museum and other main attractions of this area, but will be far enough away to avoid the crowds and chaos.
Rates from $150 to $250 USD depending on the season.
BYPILLOW Amari - A simple B&B right in downtown, this is a good choice if you just need a clean, affordable place to sleep and aren’t much bothered about the rest.
Rates typically go from $100 to $200 USD.
4. Deusto (District 1)
Recommended neighborhoods: Deustuko San Pedro-Erribera, Ibarrekolanda
The Puento de Deusto, with Deusto across the river. Photo: Xabier, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Univeristy/college areas are typically pretty similar everywhere, no matter where you go in the world, and I think that’s true of Bilbao’s Deusto neighborhood. Home to Deusto University and the University of the Basque Country, this part of town is most definitely dominated by students and young people.
The most northern district of the city and located on the east bank of the river, Deusto is young, lively, and very fun. The area was developed later in the city’s growth, so it’s definitely not historic though.
Tons of students live here, as do recent graduates and young families looking for space and affordable accommodation (both of which you have here).
Being a youthful area, you’ll find tons of shops, restaurants, and bars and cafes, most of them quite inexpensive. Additionally, due to its location at the base of the mountains that rise to Bilbao’s east, the hills just above the neighborhood afford incredible access to green spaces and nature, as well as magnificent views over the rest of the city. Be sure to take a ride on the Archanda funicular up to catch the vistas.
Perfectly connected to the rest of the city by bus and metro, this is a great base if you want a youthful atmosphere, access to the outdoors, and affordable accommodation.
Buildings of the University of Deusto. Photo: Xabier, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Where to stay
Hotel Artetxe - Located in the hills that rise up east of Deusto, Hotel Artetxe offers a unique combination: a charming rural environment that’s close enough to the city so that you can walk to its center.
Rates: less than $100 USD during the low season, below $200 USD during high season.
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