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How can I define Bilbao? How, in just a few sentences, can I distill the essence of this city so that you can understand its multifaceted spirit? I don’t know that I can, but to put it in as few words as possible, I would say that Bilbao is a chameleon of sorts, and it’s a place that adapts itself to meet the interests of every kind of visitor.

It’s a working class capital but also landmark of modern culture and architecture in Spain and southern Europe. It holds Spain’s cathedral to soccer, the San Mamés stadium, but is also the reference for any and every type of cultural event happening in northern Spain. An economic and financial center, there’s a strong business culture here, yet the city also has one of the most exciting and eclectic nightlife scenes in the country.

So, what does this mean for you as you try to decide where to base yourself here? Well, depending on where you stay, you’ll experience a very different atmosphere, as the neighborhoods in town are quite distinct.

Bilbao densely packs in its 350,000 residents along the banks of the Nervión River, and while almost everywhere is within walking distance no matter where you choose to stay, what you’ll find in each neighborhood varies greatly.

Keep reading below and you’ll find out what each one is like and what it has to offer visitors!

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Table of Contents

A quick note about Bilbao’s layout

As you begin trying to get your bearings in the city, the most essential reference point is the ría - the estuary of the Nervión River -, which acts as the town’s backbone and cuts right through the middle of it. The city has grown up and expanded out along the banks of the river, basically constantly extending down it to the west, moving ever closer toward the sea as the population has increased.

There are two reasons main reasons that it developed in this way:

Steep hills rise up on either side of the river, making it extremely difficult to develop anywhere other than along its banks.
The neighboring seaside port, just 10 miles up the river, has always been the city’s main economic driver, so being close to the port was historically of paramount importance. With that in mind, the city never had any incentive to grow in any direction other than along the river and toward the sea.

This all means that the neighborhoods are densely packed right alongside the river, making Bilbao a very narrow city. It’s a place where going from one neighborhood to the next basically just means walking along the river or crossing a bridge over it from one side to the other.

Overview of my 4 recommended neighborhoods

While in many cities, especially major ones, proximity to the center would usually be the major consideration when deciding where to stay, that’s not as important in Bilbao, as this isn’t an especially large city and it’s very densely packed in.

As long as you’re not staying out in the suburbs, the distances here are never all that great, and many of the main sights and neighborhoods are within easy walking distance of each other.

Basically, if you choose any of the neighborhoods I’ve recommended below, you’ll be able to get most places on foot. And when you do need to move longer distances, the city has a pretty comprehensive public transit network, with many bus routes, trams, and a good metro system that quickly connects all the major neighborhoods.

This means you can choose your base here almost entirely according to the atmosphere that you’re after, your budget, and the type of accommodation you like (bigger and more modern in the newer areas, versus historic and quaint in the historic center).

As I covered above, there are 8 districts in the city, but a fair number of them don’t really make sense for most travelers, especially not first-time visitors, so I’ve limited my recommendations to what I think are the 4 best neighborhoods both for their atmosphere and convenience for sightseeing.

Below is a very quick overview of each of them:

1. The Historic Center (Casco Viejo and La Vieja) - For old-world, traditional Basque charm. Green on the map.

Located in the southeast part of la ría (the river) and expanding over both sides of it, the historic center is the city’s most traditional area in terms of architecture, cuisine, nightlife, and culture. Its the part of town where Basque roots can still be felt in every corner.

There are 3 main neighborhoods here: Casco Viejo, La Vieja, and San Frantzisko, which are the oldest parts of the city. Crisscrossed by narrow little streets that are jam-packed with shops and restaurants - most of which serve traditional Basque food -, staying here is a chance to see old-world Bilbao as it used to be.

2. Downtown (Indautxu and Abandoibarra) - The best area for anyone in search of elegance, modern architecture, and big city life. Blue on the map.

Although the downtown, our modern city center, lies just across the river only a few minutes’ walk to the northwest of the Casco Viejo, it feels a world apart. I know that sounds cliché, but it genuinely offers an entirely different experience.

This is a pleasantly modern area (as much as any Spanish city is really “modern”) that holds Bilbao’s main streets and boulevards, its most elegant architecture (as well as its most contemporary), and many renowned monuments and institutions. If you’re after a big city experience, you’ll find it here.

3. Santutxu (part of the district of Begoña) - A local area offering more affordable access to the Old Town. Red on the map.

Located southeast of the Casco Viejo, you’ll find this traditionally working class neighborhood. Distinctly less fancy than the 2 more central and popular districts above, Santutxu is a good, inexpensive base from where you can get a feel for down to earth local life while still being in very close proximity to the Old Town.

This area definitely won’t wow you with its beauty, but if you’re on a budget and want to be centrally located, it’s a very good option.

4. Deusto (District 1) - Full of youthful energy and with great access to the outdoors. Yellow on the map.

Just across the river to the northwest of downtown, Deusto is the center of college life in Bilbao and all of the Basque Country. Housing the University of Deusto and some departments of the Universidad del Pais Vasco, the neighborhood is filled with young people and its streets are always bustling with life, with people hopping around the bars, grabbing a meal with friends at inexpensive restaurants, or just wandering about.

Situated right at the base of the foothills of the mountains that rise to the east of the city, it also has lots of parks, great access to the outdoors, and incredible views over the rest of town. Accommodation options are mostly inexpensive as well.

Below is a more detailed overview of each of these districts/neighborhoods

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1. The Historic Center

Pros: The most charming part of the city, filled with historic architecture and great restaurants

Cons: Can be very touristy, hotels are expensive and older

*Plaza Unamuno in the Old Town. Photo:* *Mikemod*, *CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons*

*An aerial view over the Old Town. Photo:* *dalbera from Paris, France*, *CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Distilling the essence of the historic center into only a few words is actually very easy: because if Bilbao had a heart, this would be it. These are the two oldest neighborhoods in the city and they’re where Bilbao was born centuries ago. Here, you’ll find narrow streets, traditional taverns, historic buildings, and many cultural venues and events still keep the city’s spirit alive.

On the east side of the Nervión river, the densely packed Casco Viejo is completely distinct to any other area thanks to its tight, atmospheric streets, historic architecture (such as Santiago’s Cathedral), and the feel of being very connected to the original Basque way of life.

Although historically the home of artisans and middle-class residents, the center has recently become very popular with visitors, so today it offers a mix of old families who have lived here for decades (or longer!) and crowds of foreigners, especially during the summer.

The area known as the “Seven Streets” (Zazpikaleak, in Basque language) is the most tourist-oriented, with lots of pintxo-bars (some good, some not so much), as well as some crucial spaces that will help you understand the city and region’s culture: those include the Basque Museum and the Archaeological Museum.

The city’s 14th century gothic cathedral is also here, right in the center of the neighborhood, as is the grand Plaza Miguel de Unamuno, which is ringed by very typical and lovely building. A maze of narrow little streets branch off in all directions from the square.

Meanwhile, the historically working-class area of Bilbao La Vieja (also known as Bilbi), which is just across the river from the Casco Viejo and Seven Streets area, is another pretty and interesting area that offers a much less touristy experience. La Vieja has lately become one of my favorite places in the city, as artists and young professionals have flocked here and opened up pop-up shops, artists studios, and great underground music venues. It has a definite hipster vibe, and I meant that it in a good way!

Right next to La Vieja is the neighborhood of San Frantzisko, which is a very multicultural area filled with immigrants, many having settled here in the last few decades. It can be a bit seedy and a little rundown in parts, but will show you a very different side of Bilbao.

All three of these neighborhoods are perfectly connected to the rest of the city by metro and bus, but you can basically get around everywhere on foot, as you’re unlikely to ever be more than 30-minutes from anywhere you want to go.

Where to stay

As is usually the case in the historic centers of Spain’s cities, the hotels of the Parte Vieja tend to be small boutiques, hostels, or B&Bs. As you might be able to guess, among narrow streets and ancient buildings, there is just no space for huge hotels. Bearing this in mind, here are my personal recommendations for accommodation in Bilbao’s old town:

Hotel Tayko Bilbao - The definite choice for foodies, this lovely, luxurious hotel overlooking the river holds two Michelin Star restaurants - Ola and La Bodega de Ola Taverna -, both run by the famed Basque Restaurateur Martin Berasategui. It's an obvious choice if the price works with your budget. $250 USD.

Goien Boutique Hotel - A very boutique option right next to the Ribera market. The rooms are what I would call "sleek” with dark and plush accents. It's nice. $150-300 USD.

Bilder Boutique Hotel - Great option for those wanting a bit of Old World charm, but with modern updates and comfort. Right next to the Paseo del Arenal park and the Aretzako bridge, the location has two major upsides: quick access to green space and the river and a barely 2-minute walk into the heart of both the Old Town and downtown. $150-200 USD

Letoh Letoh Bilbao - Brand new hotel in a good location. The rooms are smallish, but pleasant and very well appointed and they have good workspace facilities in the common areas. $100-200 USD.

Sercotel Arenal - An always solid mid-range option just on the edge of the Casco Viejo. The location is good for public transport and the rooms are big, bright, and airy. $100-150 USD.

NYX Hotel Bilbao by Leonardo Hotels - A 4-star hotel with nice amenities, plus some important extras: like rooms with balconies and views of the river. $100-200 USD.

Pensión Ama Bilbao - A basic but well-equipped, comfortable and cozy B&B in the heart of the old town. The price is excellent given the location and quality. $80-120 USD.

Check out more options in the historic center here

2. Downtown (Indautxu & Abandoibarra)

Pros: Always full of energy, lots of art and culture, grand buildings, great dining and shopping, central to all other main neighborhoods

Cons: Not as historic or traditionally Basque feeling as the older part of town

*The riverfront and the Guggenheim in Abandoibarra*

*Elegant Plaza Moyua. Photo:* *Alberto-g-rovi*, *CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Moving up to the northwest from the old town, arriving into the downtown (sometimes also referred to as El Ensanche) is like moving forward in time. Because if the Old Town represents Bilbao’s medieval origins, this neighborhood, the modern center of the city, represents its modernization and the wealth and development that the last 200 years of industrialization have brought here.

Covering the west bank of the River, this is where heavy industries first took hold in Bilbao at the end of the 19th century. Spanish companies flocked here and built factories, monumental buildings, and mansions for the wealthy industrialists who owned those enterprises. The area became wealthy, but it was also very industrial up until the end of the 20th century, when the city underwent a massive renovation and facelift.

Nowadays, as the commercial and business center of Bilbao, it’s also the city’s most affluent and lively zone. An upscale area mostly inhabited by young and middle-aged professionals, the area is characterized by broad avenues filled with high-end shops, elegant buildings (both historic and modern), beautiful parks, and lots of chic restaurants and bars.

If you want to do any shopping while here, this is the place to do it, as three streets in the neighborhood make up the area known as “The Golden Mile”. Those are Gran Vía, Calle Marqués del Puerto, and Calle Rodríguez Arias, each of which is lined by boutiques and high-end shops.

This is also where you’ll find some of Bilbao’s most famous monuments and cultural institutions. Here, modern and renowned spaces such as the iconic Guggenheim Museum, the Fine Arts Museum, the Iberdrola Tower, and Doña Casilda Iturrizar Park are mixed in with old relics like La Alhóndiga and the Abando Train Station (with its glorious stained glass).

And for any soccer fans reading, the San Mamés Stadium, known as the “La Catedral”, is right on the western edge of the neighborhood. If there’s a game happening during your visit you should absolutely try to get tickets. The experience inside the stadium (and all around it on game days) is unique and incredible.

Staying here is a chance to enjoy a pure downtown, big city experience. And you can quickly get anywhere you want to go in the city, as the area is extremely well served by the metro, tram lines, and buses.

Where to stay

The Artist Grand Hotel - A luxurious 5-star hotel, this is the place to stay if you want to enjoy the architecture of the Guggenheim Museum (every morning and right from the balcony of your room!). In short, the views are marvelous and it's surprisingly affordable for the quality. $150-300 USD.

Bilbao City Center by abba Suites - A 4-star hotel just across the river from the district of Abando, you’ll be close enough to walk right over to the Guggenheim Museum and other main attractions of this area, but will be far enough away to avoid the crowds and chaos. $150-250 USD.

Vincci Consulado de Bilbao - Steps from the Guggenheim, riverfront, Salbeko bridge, and Republica de Abando park, the Vincci's location is tough to beat. The rooms here, like at all Vincci's in Spain and Portugal, are modern, immaculate, and comfortably set up. $100-250 USD.

Radisson Collection Bilbao - An elegant option next to the train station and Abando metro stop that puts you within a quick walk to downtown's attractions and the Old Town. The rooms and commons areas are very stylish. $150-200 USD.

BYPILLOW Amari - A simple B&B right in downtown, this is a good choice if you just need a clean, affordable place to sleep and aren’t much bothered about the rest. $100-200 USD.

Sercotel Ayala - Immaculate, spacious, and modern rooms at a good rate right next to the train station and just a few minutes’ walk into the Casco Viejo. $80-200 USD.

Hotel Miró - This is a lovely 4-star boutique hotel that has surprisingly spacious rooms with big windows, many of which look straight out onto the Guggenheim. It's also right next to a lovely park. $100 USD.

If those aren’t what you’re after, you can see everything available in the neighborhood here

3. Santutxu (Begoña District)

Pros: Very local vibe, affordable accommodation, short walk into the Casco Viejo

Cons: Not a huge selection of hotels, fairly quiet in the evenings

*The Basilica of Begoña. Photo:* *Alfa.Alfa*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*The intersection of Zabalbide and Santa Clara streets, next to Santutxu metro. Photo:* *Ksarasola*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Located just to the southeast of the Casco Viejo and its historic streets and squares, the neighborhood of Santutxu is an excellent base for anyone who wants to be close enough to quickly walk into Bilbao’s old town, but not be surrounded by other tourists at all times.

Accommodation here is also much cheaper than in the historic center, so you’ll save quite a bit of money by staying here instead. And since the neighborhood has more space than the old town, you’ll also find larger hotels with better amenities around here.

As for the environment, this is a residential middle class area, with many residents having lived here for decades, and you’ll find a fair deal of families and older folks. It can be pretty quiet, so if you’re after a bit of action, I’d suggest looking for accommodation near to the Santutxu metro stop, which is the liveliest part of the neighborhood. Being near the metro also makes it super quick and easy to zip over to other parts of the city.

There are a few interesting cultural spaces, such as Café Theatre La Nube and Bilbao Eszena, which are always bumping, and the surrounding streets are packed with a nice mix of traditional Basque restaurants and global cuinses.

And of course, one of the most important monuments in the city is found here: the Basilica of Begoña. This 500 year old church, dedicated to the patron saint of Biscay (the Virgin Begoña) and beloved by bilbaínos, is the original symbol of the city (before the Guggenheim), so be sure to climb the hill and pay your respects.

As I said above, this area is a short walk into the Casco Viejo (around 15 minutes), and you can even get into the downtown in around half an hour. It’s also well connected to the rest of the city thanks to an excellent network of buses and the two metro stations of Basarrate and Santutxu.

Where to stay

Hotel Gran Bilbao - Surprisingly inexpensive for a riverside 4-star hotel, this is an excellent choice if you want a bit of luxury without really breaking the bank. It is a bit further from the old town though (about a 20-minute walk). $110-250 USD.

Hotel Sirimiri - Cozy, very-well equipped, and with super friendly staff, this hotel is one of my personal favorites in the city. It’s within easy walking distance from everywhere in the old town and is also right next to public transport, making it a breeze to get anywhere else in the city. $70-180 USD.

Occidental Bilbao - Large and modern corporate-style 4-star hotel with spacious, comfortable rooms. Right next to the Basilica de Begoña and a quick 15-minute walk to the Casco Viejo. $100-150 USD.

Begoña doesn’t have a lot accommodation options, but you’ll find most of them here.

4. Deusto (District 1)

Pros: Affordable accommodation and restaurants, incredible access to expansive green spaces, fun, youthful atmosphere

Cons: Very modern with relatively nondescript architecture, a long walk in to the Casco Viejo and Downtown depending on where you stay

*The Puento de Deusto, with Deusto across the river. Photo:* *Xabier*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Buildings of the University of Deusto. Photo:* *Xabier*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Univeristy/college areas are typically pretty similar everywhere, no matter where you go in the world, and I think that very much holds true for Bilbao’s Deusto neighborhood. Home to Deusto University and the University of the Basque Country, this part of town is most definitely dominated by students and young people.

The most northwestern district of the city and located on the east bank of the river, Deusto is young, lively, and very fun. Tons of students live here, as do recent graduates and young families looking for space and affordable accommodation (both of which you have here).

The area was developed later in the city’s growth, so just be aware that it is not historic. Most construction here is much more modern than you might expect, so I want to note that it doesn’t have the charm of the other areas that I’ve recommended. There are lots of newer, nondescript high-rise buildings, which while convenient for everyday life, aren’t especially pretty or of touristic interest.

Being a youthful part of the city, you’ll find tons of shops, restaurants, and bars and cafes, most of them quite inexpensive. Additionally, due to its location at the base of the mountains that rise to Bilbao’s east, the hills just above the neighborhood afford incredible access to green spaces and nature, as well as magnificent views over the rest of the city. Be sure to take a ride on the Archanda funicular up to catch the vistas.

If you choose to stay here, I’d suggest trying to find a hotel relatively close to the riverfront (rather than up in the hills), and staying around either of the area’s two metro stops: Deusto and Sarriko. Deusto is the closer of the two to downtown, so is more convenient for quick access to the city’s other sights.

Getting into downtown and the old town is super quick and easy as the metro heads straight into both, so this is a great base if you want a youthful atmosphere, access to the outdoors, and affordable accommodation.

Where to stay

Hotel Artetxe - Located in a converted farmhouse in the green hills that rises up east of Deusto, Hotel Artetxe offers a unique option for a charming rural stay that’s still close to the city center. It's a particularly good option if you're traveling with a car. $100-200 USD.

NH Bilbao Deusto - A simple, corporate-style hotel that is just across the river from many of the downtown sights. Cross the bridge, walk along the river through the park for a few minutes, and you’re at the Guggenheim. $100 USD.

You can find more options here (they’re mostly short-term apartments)