Guide to Visiting Zaragoza, Spain
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In Spain, I’m often surprised at just how much is going on around the country at any given time, and at just how big it really is. Spain is a place where you can stumble across large cities that you’ve barely heard of before, only to discover they’re full of life, boast their own unique culture, and act as home to a population of wonderful and proud locals. For me, Zaragoza is one such place.
It’s one of those Spanish destinations that might not pop up on your radar at first glance. With cities like Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao, and Seville demanding most attention in Spain, Zaragoza flies delightfully under the radar. But that’s what makes it so surprising; this is a destination you’ll go home thinking about, and one that you’ll recommend to your friends.
Zaragoza is Spain’s fifth biggest city and has a cultural life, cuisine, and historic attractions to match that title. If you’re ready to be surprised with an authentic look at Spanish city life, Zaragoza is a solid choice.
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Why visit
Zaragoza is a lively place, with a beautiful old town to explore brimming with tapas bars and restaurants, grand architecture, and the city’s most famous monuments. The first thing that strikes you about Zaragoza is just how Spanish it is; the city center is packed with locals until late in the evening, milling about in the squares, sipping drinks on terraces, and enjoying bites of tapas everywhere you look.
The city’s rich, 2000-year history is also evident as you explore. It was ruled by the Romans, the Moors, and the Goths, each of whom left behind traces of their time in charge. In the 12th century it became a part of the Kingdom of Aragon and was the capital of that kingdom for three and a half centuries.
As such, alongside the Roman ruins and Moorish architecture, you’ll find an abundance of grand architecture from the Middle Ages, regal monuments, and ornate palaces and houses that once housed the wealthy citizens of the Kingdom of Aragon.
Today, amongst Spaniards, Zaragoza is known for a few things. The first is the impressive Basilica del Pilar, the magnificent baroque cathedral that dominates the city skyline. Zaragoza is also the best place in the county to see works by the famed Spanish artist Francisco Goya, who was born in a small village 28 miles south of the city.
Finally, Spaniards also consider Zaragoza one of the better places in the country when it comes to tapas – you’re going to eat well in these city streets.
Where is Zaragoza?
Located in the Aragon region of northeastern Spain, Zaragoza sits on the banks of the Ebro River. It is positioned roughly halfway between Madrid and Barcelona, making it an ideal stopover if you’re traveling between Spain’s two most famous destinations.
Zaragoza is the capital of Aragon, one of Spain’s larger autonomous regions. To the south of the city are the flat plains of the Teruel province, a quiet area home to medieval villages and plenty of Mudejar architecture (a mix of Moorish and classic Christian architecture). To the north of Zaragoza is the Huesca province, which slowly ascends to the tallest mountains in the Pyrenees that separate Spain from France.
How to get here
By far the best way to get to Zaragoza is by train. The city is about halfway between Madrid and Barcelona, and as such is also served by the high-speed train that travels between those two cities.
From Madrid, the train takes 1 hour and 15 minutes to get to Zaragoza, and from Barcelona, it takes 1 hour and 25 minutes. Buses are generally slightly cheaper than the train but take at least 2 hours more.
Trains are operated by the national rail service, Renfe.
Where to buy train tickets
I always recommend booking your public transport tickets directly with the service provider. However, the website/app Omio is also a nice option. It’s an aggregator that shows options for public transport routes all over the world. When you do a search, you’ll be able to see all your options for trains, buses, flights, and even ferries along with a host of different companies that provide the services.
Comparing prices is easy, the site has a great design, and you can keep all your bookings in one place. It costs a little bit more than booking direct, but it’s really convenient.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Zaragoza is in September or October. During these months, the last vestiges of summer make the days warm, but there’s no need to hide away inside after lunch to try and stay cool, like in summer. Later in the evening, you’ll also be able to get about with only a light jacket as a backup.
October is also a fantastic time to visit thanks to the Fiestas del Pilar, the biggest festival in the city. This is a week-long celebration honoring the patron saint of Zaragoza, La Virgen del Pilar. During the festivities, there’s everything from parades and flower offerings to live concerts, street theatre, and impressive firework shows.
How long to spend
Generally, a good amount of time in Zaragoza is around 2–3 days. This will let you visit the city's big sights, pop into a museum or two, and indulge in plenty of good tapas while you’re there.
Where to stay
As a large city in Spain, Zaragoza features a range of accommodation options to suit every budget and preference.
The best place to stay in Zaragoza is in the Old Town, where you’ll be in the thick of the action.
NH Gran Hotel de Zaragoza is a modern hotel in a historic building near to everything. They’ve managed to renovate the building while still keeping many of the details and charms of the original architecture ($120 per night).
Hotel Catalonia El Pilar is a lovely hotel and puts you right in front of the Basilica del Pilar (around $100 per night).
Hotel Sauce is another good option in the old town. It’s a family-run hotel with plenty of character and warm service (also around $100 per night).
If you’d prefer a more relaxed atmosphere but within easy reach of all the sights, check out the La Magdalena neighborhood to the east.
ibis Styles Zaragoza Ramiro is a comfortable enough spot with very affordable rooms ($50-75).
To the south is the Centro neighborhood (not to be confused with the Old Town, called Casco Antiguo), home to wide boulevards lined with shops and restaurants, leafy parks, and the University of Zaragoza.
Hotel Gran Via is in a great location (right next to the train station) with large spacious rooms at good prices ($60-90).
What to see and do
1. Visit the Sprawling Basilica del Pilar
The Basilica del Pilar is Zaragoza’s most famous monument, a baroque masterpiece that dominates the city’s skyline. It’s believed to be the place where the Virgin Mary appeared to the Apostle James on a jasper pillar in the year 40 CE, so this is quite an important religious site in Spain. Inside the basilica you can still see the pillar, which has been surrounded by different chapels and churches built throughout the city’s history.
The basilica’s interior features beautiful, colorful domes, elaborate sculptures, and paintings by famous artists. It’s also worth taking the elevator to the top of the basilica’s tower from where you can enjoy outstanding views over the city and river.
2. Discover the City’s Moorish Past at the Aljafería Palace
Outside of Andalucia, Zaragoza is home to some of Spain’s most impressive Moorish architecture. By far the best example in Zaragoza is the Aljafería Palace, originally built as a fortress and residence for the Muslim rulers of Zaragoza in the 11th century.
The palace has witnessed many historical events and has been the seat of Aragón’s regional parliament since 1987.
3. Admire Mudejar Architecture at La Seo Cathedral
Zaragoza is also a center of Mudejar architecture, which is a style of art and architecture that incorporates classic Muslim details with the dominant European styles that emerged during the 12th century and onwards.
It’s a style that developed in Aragon because the Muslims (or Mudejar in Spanish) were allowed to peacefully live here after the Spanish Reconquista, in which the Christians wrested back control of Spain from the Moors.
La Seo Cathedral is one of the city’s most exquisite examples of Mudejar architecture, with intricate brickwork and colorful ceramics on its exterior. Inside is equally as impressive, and where you’ll also see hints of Gothic style as well as the remnants of its former life as a Roman temple, a Visigoth church, and a mosque.
Its combination of styles and importance as a symbol of peaceful coexistence between religions and culture has made La Seo Cathedral a UNESCO World Heritage site.
4. Delve Underground at the Roman Theatre and Forum
The Forum Museum is a fascinating place to discover the history and culture of the ancient Roman city of Caesaraugusta. The museum is in a building in Plaza de la Seo, which is the entrance to the excavated remains of the forum.
The museum allows you to see the substructures of the forum, including basements, foundations, sewers and drainage channels, as well as a collection of Roman artefacts.
5. Learn About Zaragoza’s Favorite Son at the Goya Museum
The Goya Museum is a must-visit for anyone interested in the work of Francisco de Goya, one of Spain’s most influential artists. The museum is in a beautiful Renaissance building that showcases over 250 works by Goya, including paintings, drawings, and prints.
You can admire 15 of his essential works and 48 of his most prominent pieces, as well as four complete sets of his prints, including the Desastres de la Guerra (Disasters of War), a powerful critique of the horrors of war.
6. Visit The Museum of Zaragoza
As the long-standing capital of the Kingdom of Aragon, Zaragoza is home to the Kingdom’s treasure trove of archaeological finds and fine arts. Most of it is on display at the Museum of Zaragoza, located in a majestic building that dates to the Hispano-French Exposition of 1908.
Here you can browse impressive collections of Roman mosaics, ethnology, ceramics, and paintings. Among the paintings, the most remarkable are the 19 works by Goya (yes there are more Goya artworks here!) who depicted portraits of nobles, royals, and scenes of everyday life.
7. Prepare a Picnic in the Mercado Central de Zaragoza
The Mercado Central de Zaragoza is the city’s main public market, housed in a beautiful modernist building designed by the Aragonese architect Félix Navarro Pérez. Inaugurated in 1903, the building itself has been recognized as a National Historic Monument and a Cultural Heritage Site. Under its roof you’ll find a classic Spanish market: stalls overflowing with fresh seafood, meats, cheeses, fruits, and vegetables.
In short, everything you need to prepare a picnic to take to the nearby Parque Grande, one of the city’s biggest green spaces.
8. Walk over the Puente del Tercer Milenio bridge
This huge and futuristic bridge was built in 2008 when Zaragoza hosted the 2008 Expo. It crosses the Ebro river, connecting the city’s Actur, Almozara, and Delicias neighborhoods. It’s more than 270 meters long and has separate lanes for both pedestrians and cyclists.
9. Enjoy a Tapas Crawl Through the City Center
Tapas in Zaragoza has a reputation in Spain as some of the best in the country, so you’re going to want to spend some time in the city’s many bars sampling the goods. Start in the bustling Plaza del Pilar, a lively square in the heart of the city, where you can enjoy a bite and a drink while admiring the Basilica del Pilar.
From here, wind your way through the historic center toward the barrio of El Tubo, a warren of narrow streets where you’ll find the best tapas bars in the city.
10. Wander around Parque Grande José Antonio Labordeta
One of Zaragoza’s most elegant green spaces, this spacious park provides perfect opportunity for leisurely strolls, people watching, lounging, and picnics.
11. Join an Origami Workshop at the Museum of Origami
The Museo Origami is one of Zaragoza’s more unique museums, celebrating the art of folding paper. It’s the first museum of its kind in Europe, showcasing amazing creations of origami artists from around the world. The museum has six galleries of permanent and temporary exhibits where you’ll learn all about the history and culture of origami.
If you want to try your hand at origami, you can join one of the workshops or classes that the museum offers.
12. Visit Zaragoza’s Man-Made Beach
It’s a landlocked city, but thanks to a system of careful water filtration and purification of the Ebro River, Zaragoza does in fact have a “beach”. It’s a man-made area of white sand, palm trees, and crystal-clear pools of natural water inside of Parque del Agua Luis Buñuel park, just a bit to the northwest of the city center inside the
Referred to as “Las Piscinas de Zaragoza”, it’s a good choice if you’re visiting during summer and looking for a way to cool off. The surrounding park is also beautiful.
Photo: Campeones 2008, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Restaurants and dining
Zaragoza is a food lover's paradise, and the kind of place Spanish foodie tourists go for their city breaks. The tapas scene in the city is incredible, and every year in November the city is home to the Zaragoza Tapas Competition, where bars compete for the prize of best tapas in the city.
Here are some great places to grab a bite in town:
El Tubo
We’ve already mentioned going for tapas in El Tubo, but it’s so good it’s worth mentioning again. This is the absolute epicenter of tapas in Zaragoza, and home to many of the restaurants below. It’s also perfect for aimless wanderings, turning up your own gems.
Casa Lac
One of the oldest licensed restaurants in Spain, Casa Lac opened in 1825 and is the place to get your fix of delicious tapas with a healthy dose of regal, Modernist architecture as well.
Méli Melo
Famed for their creative takes on traditional tapas, this is the place to go if you’re keen to squeeze into a bar and stand shoulder to shoulder with the locals. The bar groans under the weight of the tapas displayed on top, and you can expect some very interesting creations – but it’s all delicious.
Los Xarmientos
Aragon as a region is rightly famous for their meat dishes, the best of which you can try at this restaurant. Grilled lamb is the specialty, and one of the most emblematic dishes in the region.
La Miguería
The word ‘Migas’ is the name of a dish typical to southern Spain, where breadcrumbs are fried in a pan with whatever else is on hand; usually red peppers, chunks of meat, garlic, eggs, and other items. This restaurant serves around thirty different variations of Migas, which means you can easily find something to your liking.
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