How to Spend 2 Days in San Sebastián - A Local’s Itinerary
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I hope you’ve been sticking to your workouts and watching your diet these past few weeks, because for the next two days, I’ve prepared a plan for you that will require both plenty of stamina and quite a lot of space in your stomach! And that’s because here in Donostia (as San Sebastián is called in Basque), the pearl of the Basque Country, we locals live by a simple motto: walk, eat, and repeat.
One of the things that I think is so great about visiting San Sebastián is that this is a small city whose typical tourist sights can easily be visited in as little as half a day. And what that means is that when here, you’re freed up from having to “worry” about checking off sights and can instead just focus on having a nice time and embracing our way of life, which is simply a pleasure. When in this city, I think your goal should simply be to enjoy yourself, not sightsee. And for me, that’s really refreshing.
With the above in mind, the itinerary that I’ve put together below includes a nice mix of all the things that I love about this town: you’ll walk the seaside promenade along La Concha beach, you’ll feast your way through the Old Town, you’ll try your hand at surfing or just lounge in the sand, and you’ll hike the trails and mountains, catching incredible views along the way.
Between it all, you’ll see and do quite a lot, of course, but more importantly, you’ll also experience the essence of this city, gaining a real understanding of what life here is like.
So, if that all sounds like the type of city break that you enjoy, I think you’re in for a treat with this plan. Now let’s get into it! And remember, no matter what else you do here, remember our motto: walk, eat, and repeat!
And for a little “after school reading", check out some of my other Basque Country guides:
Table of Contents
San Sebastián planning cheatsheet
Plan your itinerary with expert advice
- Book a Spain travel consultation with a local expert
My favorite hotels in San Sebastián
- Hotel de Londres - grand old hotel on Playa La Concha. $150-400/night
- Hotel Arbaso - comfortbale and modern rooms by the cathedral. $150-300/night
- Catalonia Donosti - great 4-star with reasonable prices. $150-300/night
- NH Collection Aranzazu - dependable midrange option by Ondarreta beach. $100-200/night
- Hotel Zinema 7 - well done budget hotel just outside the center $75-180/night
Guided tours and activities
How to get around
Itinerary overview
Day 1: We’ll dedicate the first day in San Sebastián to three main things: a tour of the big sights in the city center, a walk on the seaside promenade along La Concha Bay, and a food-focused wander through Lo Viejo (the old town). Later in the day, I’ve planned a boat trip to Santa Clara Island, followed by an evening back in the Old Town filled with more feasting, drinking, and fun.
Day 2: You’ll have covered most of the major tourist attractions yesterday, so we can get a bit more creative with your second day in town. For the morning, I’d propose trying your hand at surfing along Zurriola beach, or, if that doesn’t sound like your speed, going for a peaceful stroll along the Urumea River, visiting a couple of significant sights along the way.
Afterwards, explore the very trendy neighborhood of Gros, go for a walk through Sagüés, and then do the hike around Mount Ulia all the way to the fishing town of Pasaia. End the day with an incredible seafood dinner while enjoying magnificent ocean views.
A few useful things to know
Where to stay
As I’ve already said, this is a small city and as long as you stay relatively central, you’ll be able to get just about everywhere very quickly - usually in no more than 20 minutes on foot. Of course, the atmosphere in some neighborhoods is quite different than in others though, so which one is right for you will depend on what you’re looking for in your home base.
In general though, and especially for anyone who is here on their first trip and/or in town for a limited amount of time, I think the 3 most central neighborhoods - Lo Viejo, Gros, and the City Center/Área Romántica - are your best bet. I’ve put together a quick overview of each of them below.
And for a more comprehensive guide to the neighborhoods, check out my article on Where to stay in San Sebastián.
Lo Viejo (the Old Town)
Lo Viejo, with its narrow streets and densely packed old buildings, is the most intimate part of the city and also its beating heart, especially when it comes to anything related to food (and here in San Sebastián, food is everything!). This is where all the best pintxo bars are, where most of the good walks begin, and where you’ll catch some of the city’s best views (from up on Monte Urgull). It’s very touristy, of course, and hotel options are mostly limited to little pensiónes, but if you’re after a historic setting and Old World charm, this is where you’ll find it.
Gros
Just to the east of the city center, Gros is a trendy and hipster-ish neighborhood that has become super popular with young people in recent years. It’s the most international part of the city and it has tons of cool cafés, bars, and restaurants serving cuisines from around the world. It has its own beach too, La Zurriola, which is the city’s surfing hub.
City Center / Área Romántica
In the 19th century, San Sebastián became a summer retreat for European nobility, who built magnificent homes here, making it the most architecturally stunning part of the city. Just to the south of the Old Town, the neighborhood spreads out along La Concha Beach, making it an especially great choice during warm-weather visits. This is a beautiful and lively area that’s filled with shops, restaurants, and impressive squares, and I think it’s the best bet for anyone looking for classic elegance, comfort, and a fun stay in the middle of all the action. It’s pricey though!
And for anyone just looking for some solid accommodation recommendations, I’ve put together the map below, which includes my favorite hotels throughout the city.
How to get around the city
San Sebastián is a small city, home to fewer than 200,000 people, and the areas that you’ll be visiting over the next two days are all relatively close to one another. So, walking, just like a true donostiarra (local resident), is not only the most practical way to get around, but also an essential part of experiencing this city.
So yes, your main mode of transportation here should be your own two feet.
That said, if walking everywhere for two days feels like too much, or if you’re dealing with heavy rain, strong winds, or any other kind of classic Basque weather (which, depending on the time of year, is most definitely possible) - don’t worry; San Sebastián has a very good public transportation system.
Buses run through all the main parts of the city, typically passing by every 10 to 15 minute, and a one-way ticket costs less than €2. If you’re heading a bit farther out, we have an excellent metro/urban rail network, which will whisk you to the neighboring cities and towns. Buses operate until around 11 PM, and some metro/train services run later.
The city also offers a public bike service, with a one-month subscription costing €6, plus per-trip charges: €0.45 for 30 minutes on a regular bike and €0.95 for the same time on an e-bike. You can find full details on the city’s website here.
Day 1 - San Sebastián’s iconic sights
Morning
A walk through Lo Viejo (the Old Town)
Egun on eta ongi etorri! That menas “good morning and welcome!” in the Basque Language. And it really is always a good morning when you’re in San Sebastián, probably the most aesthetically impressive city in the Iberian Peninsula.
This is a relatively small city, but it’s absolutely packed with history and fantastic places to visit, from the medieval streets of its Old Town (Lo Viejo), to the grand Belle Epoque architecture of the City Center, and the modernistic structures of the present day that have sprung up as the city reconverted itself into a cultural and touristic powerhouse.
So let’s discover all three of these very different sides of the city! I’d suggest starting off in chronological order, which means first wandering along the narrow, pedestrianized streets of Lo Viejo. The atmosphere and architecture is simply lovely here, and there are a few big sights too:
San Vicente Church, which is considered to be the oldest building in the city, built in the Gothic style during the early 16th century.
Then there’s the the grand 18th-century Plaza de la Constitución, the absolute center of everything in this town and a classic meetup point for locals.
And finally, be sure to check out the San Telmo Museum, a 16th century Dominican convent that was once used as a military barracks.
Once you’ve finished touring the Old Town, prepare yourself to travel centuries forward in time, all by taking just a few steps into the City Center, also known as the Area Romántica.
Plaza de la Constitución. Photo: Edorta Subijana, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Belle Epoque City Center
While still in Lo Viejo, make your way to the Urumea River - on the neighborhood’s eastern edge - and begin walking south toward the City Center. As you stroll along the river, you’ll quickly notice how the architectural style changes, becoming grander and much more “French seeming”, and that’s because you’re now entering the epicenter of the San Sebastián’s Belle Epoque era.
You’ll first pass by Zurriola Bridge, then the gorgeous De Okendo Plaza, home to the Victoria Eugenia Theater (which is still today a performing arts center), and the real showstopper: the grand María Cristina Hotel, built for European nobility in the beginning of the 20th century, and now a luxurious 5-star hotel.
Just a few steps past the hotel is another impressive bridge - the Puente de Santa Catalina, followed by the most iconic one in the city: the Puente de María Cristina, with its grand pillars and sculptures standing tall on either side of the river.
From the bridge, you can now dip inwards away from the river, and will be quickly greeted by the lovely De Bilbao Plaza. From there, continue on for just a few steps until you reach another of the city’s finest structures: the imposing Cathedral of the Good Shepherd of San Sebastian.
From here, you’re now just about ready to see another of the city’s most beautiful features, but this one is natural rather than manmade: La Concha Bay. To get there, make your way from the cathedral down Loiola Kalea, a very nice, pedestrianized street with tons of stores and shops. If you want to detour a bit before getting to the beach, you can just wander pretty much aimlessly around any of the cross streets here, as they’re all pleasantly lively and very pretty (this is really the heart of modern day San Sebastián).
De Okendo Plaza. Photo: Валерий Дед, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Catedral del Buen Pastor. Photo: Juanedc from Zaragoza, España, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Puente de Maria Cristina. Photo: Juanedc from Zaragoza, España, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Paseo de la Concha
San Sebastián is inseparable from the sea, and nowhere is that more obvious than at the Bay of La Concha - the city’s most iconic sight and the home of one of the best urban beaches in Europe. The bay forms a natural, shell-shaped harbor (hence the name La Concha) and provides a stunning frame for the city, especially when seen from the promenade that curves around it - called the Paseo de la Concha.
And if there’s one thing you absolutely must do when here, it’s walk the entire promenade from east to west, covering the full 2.5km stretch that takes you from the Old Town over to Monte Igueldo. So start your walk near the marina right by the Mirador Club Nautico lookout point. Here, you’ll also be beside the very pretty Parque Alderdi Eder, which is where our impressive City Hall is located, along with a carousel (always popular with kids!).
As a quick side note, the Old Town was the former fisherman’s neighborhood and the port was where they set sail from (to places as far away as Newfoundland!), and it still retains that old-world charm. This is because although San Sebastián has as an active fishing and maritime industry still today, the commercial port was moved to the nearby town of Pasaia long ago.
Anyways, from the lookout point, follow the promenade west, keeping an eye out for Santa Clara Island in the middle of the bay. This small, forested island acts as a natural breakwater, sheltering the city from storms, and you’ll be visiting it later on today!
As you walk, you’ll likely see plenty of donostiarras (this is the name for the locals here) braving the chilly water, even if you’re visiting outside of summer. Rain or shine, cold or warm, we locals swim anyways!
A stretch of La Concha beach, with the raised beachfront promenade behind/above it.
Peine del Viento (Comb of the Wind)
At the far western end of the promenade - about 2.5 km from where you started - you’ll come to the Peine del Viento sculptures, one of San Sebastián’s most iconic landmarks. These awesome sculptures were created by Eduardo Chillida, a native son of this city and probably our most famous artist. The installation consists of three massive steel structures (weighing 30 tons between them) that are anchored into the rocks and constantly battered by crashing waves.
Stand beside them and feel the wind funneling through the combs while the sea sprays mist around you and you’ll immediately understand both the sculptures’ name and this city’s deep connection to the ocean.
The Peine del Viento sculptures. Photo: Wouter Homs, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ride the funicular up Monte Igueldo
Just a short walk from the Peine del Viento is the Igueldo Funicular - a vintage funicular railway that’s been in operation since 1912 and takes you up to the summit of Monte Igueldo, the “hill” that rises steeply above the western end of La Concha Bay.
At the top, you’ll find a quirky, old-school amusement park that’s always lots of fun if you’re traveling with kids or just like amusement parks, but even if rides aren’t your thing, the real reason to come up here is the view: from up here, looking east over the bay and city, you’ll have an unforgettable panoramic view of San Sebastián. The golden sand of La Concha beach, the Cantabrian Sea stretching out to the horizon, the city’s beautiful architecture, and the green hills and mountains that surround it. Incredible!
Looking out at Ondarreta beach and Monte Igueldo on the western edge of San Sebastián
The funicular up to Monte Igueldo. Photo: Hubert Berberich (HubiB), CC BY 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
The view from on top of Monte Igueldo. Photo: Tom Page from London, UK, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Climb to the top of Monte Urgull
It’s now time to make your way to San Sebastián’s other “mountain”, this one lying to your east and jutting out into the sea just past the Old Town. To get there from Monte Igueldo, take the funicular back down to Ondarreta Beach at its base, and then either retrace your steps along the seaside promenade or catch one of the many buses that go stop directly behind the beach and head straight into the city center.
Monte Urgull is to San Sebastián what the Cristo de Corcovado statue is to Rio de Janeiro. It’s probably the symbol of the city and it’s a towering presence no matter where you are here. This hill is also the perfect representation of the city, and more broadly, the Basque Country: sea and mountains all blended together.
If you decide to walk the promenade back to Monte Urgull - which will take around 45 minutes - stop off along the way at La Concha beach for a quick dip in the sea. And once you reach Urgull, get ready for some climbing, because there’s no funicular railway here that will take you to the top (unless you come in summertime, when you’ll be able to catch minibus 39 to almost the top of this hill).
There are a couple of different ways to get up to the top, but my recommendation is to take the winding trail that meanders from the city’s aquarium (on the western slope of Mount Urgull) and winds through a lovely forest and past the ruins of what were once the main defense fortification of the city. The path is pretty steep but it’s a bit less than a mile in total and can be done in just about 20 minutes.
Once you reach the top and get to the castle that marks the summit, enjoy a spectacular view of the city. It’s not as impressive as what you saw at Monte Igueldo, but you’re much closer to everything here, so I think it’s easier to appreciate the beautify of the town from Urgull.
This is also the perfect spot to taste what is probably the best beer in San Sebastián, at Polboriña, the ancient powder keg of the castle that has now been converted into a beer garden that’s run by some local surfers.
Monte Urgull, rising over San Sebastián’s Old Town
Afternoon
A self-guided tapas tour of Lo Viejo
It’s now time to eat, so head down from Monte Urgull and get ready to feast in the Old Town. And if you’re hungry (as you should be after so much walking t his morning), you must know you’re in the best place in all of Spain to satisfy your appetite.
This is the city with the most Michelin Star restaurants per square mile in the entire world, and it’s a place where eating is both an art form and a marathon! To me, San Sebastián’s culinary scene straddles the perfect middle ground between Spain’s gluttonous craving for big hearty meals and France’s emphasis on refinement and excellence. You can have both here!
Of course, pintxos, those tasty little morsels and small plates, are what you should eat while here, so let me take you on a tour of some of my favorite places to chow down in the Old Town:
Let’s start our food crawl in Paco Bueno, at the southeastern eged of Lo Viejo. If I was you, I would go here for a gilda, the most typical pintxo in the city: a skewer with tuna, pepper, and anchovies. Always delicious and the perfect way to get your stomach ready to feast. I’d also suggest a pintxo de gambas con gabardina (trench coat shrimps), which is one of the restaurant’s classics.
Moving up along the street, you’ll get to the impressive church of Santa María del Coro (have a look inside) and then to Atari Restaurant, a modern classic. Here there’s no doubt what the “must order” plate is: the grilled octopus with roasted potatoes.
Next, head on to Kapadokia, a recently established and highly regarded tavern where any, and I really do mean any, pintxo is a little taste of heaven.
And finally, you’ve got two very different places to round out your meal: for meats, head to Txuleta, where you can have the classic T-bone steak. And then right across the street is Gandarias, where you’ll have some of the best seafood of your life.
Typical pintxos in a little bar in San Sebastián. Photo: Gordito1869, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Dessert at La Viña
Ok, it’s now time for something sweet. And for that, there can be no doubt about the final stop to round out a truly fantastic meal: you simply must go to La Viña to try its internationally famous Basque-style Cheesecake. It was named the “flavor of the year” in a New York Times article by the food writer Kim Severson back in 2021, and it’s now one of the most famous cheesecake spots in the world.
With an almost charred exterior that contrasts starkly with its very (very!) creamy interior, La Viña’s slice of heaven is the perfect end to any lunch in San Sebastián’s Old Town. A classic you simply can’t miss. This cake is so good that it will make you cry - and I know that for a fact, because it happens to me every time I taste it!
The process to get to La Viña is quite simple too; just leave the last restaurant you visited, ask anyone in the street where to find a piece of cheesecake, and they’ll point you in this direction. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the crowds of hungry people peering through the windows looking for their slice of cake.
Heavenly San Sebastián-style cheesecake. Photo: Stolbovsky, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Boat trip to Santa Clara Island
This next activity might just be my favorite thing to do in San Sebastián. You’ll catch the ferry to Santa Clara Island from the port (where you began your walk along La Concha Promenade this morning), so you can either head straight there or take a little detour along the Paseo Nuevo path that runs around the edge of Monte Urgull and then on to the port.
As I mentioned earlier, Santa Clara lies just offshore from the city and this rocky little island protects La Concha Bay from the raw power of the ocean. It’s also a favorite spot for locals to hang out at on nice days, so if the weather is good, it’s sure to busy and lively.
To get there, ferries leave the port every 30 minutes from 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM, and you have two options for the ride: the Red Line, which takes you straight to the island in about 10 minutes, or the Blue Line, which includes a 30-minute cruise along San Sebastián’s waterfront before dropping you off at the island. It’s 5 euros round-trip for the direct ferry, or 8 euros for the longer cruise option.
You should probably plan to spend an hour or two on the island, between a swim at its tiny beach (which offers great views of the city), a climb up the steps to the lighthouse, and a beer at the bar.
Santa Clara island, just offshore from San Sebastián. Photo: Jchmrt, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening
A beer at Akerbeltz and dinner at Bodegón Alejandro
Whenever you’re ready to leave Santa Clara behind, hop back on the next boat and catch a ride back to the port.
It’s been a pretty busy day with a lot of walking and a lot of eating, just as donostiarras’ standards demand, but you might need some rest and relaxation by now, so I will give you a tip - from the port, make a 2-minute walk over to Akerbeltz, a beloved local spot that serves great craft beers alongside great views of La Concha Bay.
The bar always has a casual but lively atmosphere, good vibes, and the best beers in town, so it’s a very fun place to wind down after a busy day.
Once you’ve recharged with a beer or two, it’s time for dinner. My recommendation for that is Bodegón Alejandro, which is a personal favorite of mine because of the warm, welcoming atmosphere of the staff and owners. The food is incredible, so I’d still go there even if they weren’t so nice, but the lovely attitude of everyone who works there is really what makes it special.
My favorite dishes are the fish soup, the kokotxas (fish cheeks), and the T-Bone, and I think you should order all of them! Buen provecho!
Day 2: A bit of surfing, explore Gros and Sagüés, and hike to Pasaia
San Sebastián split in two by the river, with Gros on the left and the city center on the right. Photo: Mikel Arrazola, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning
Some surfing at Zurriola Beach
As I’ve already explained to you above, the Basque spirit can be distilled into two main features: an absolute devotion to good food and drink, and a love for physical activities. Perhaps this second one is really a way to compensate for the first!
And in the case of San Sebastián, there’s no sport more local than surfing, so I think you should start your second day in this city by embracing the local culture and trying to catch some waves yourself. So head to Zurriola beach (in the trendy Gros neighborhood), which is the most exposed shoreline in the city. Here, the waves of the Cantabrian Sea crash against the shore in full force.
Sitting on a surfboard out on the water is also a nice way to see the city from a different perspective, and you’ll have exceptional views of the Kursaal Auditorium, a symbol of the city and the place where many of our biggest events take place, like the Jazz Festival and the International Film Festival.
There are a bunch of surfing schools lined up along or nearby the beach, so if you’ve surfed before, you can just rent a board at any of them and head out on your own. Alternatively, if you’re a beginner, you can take a class. For that, my personal recommendation is to do so with one of the following companies: Free Surf, Zurriola, and Pukas, in that order.
Surfers at Zurriola Beach. Photo: Juanedc from Zaragoza, España, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Looking out at Zurriola Beach. Photo: Reinhold Möller, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A walk along the Urumea river in Gros (alternative to surfing)
Ok, I know that surfing will not be for everyone, so you could of course just lounge out on the beach instead, but for a non-beach idea, an alternative is a nice walk along the Urumea River. You did this for a bit yesterday, but today I’d suggest crossing the river and exploring it from the Gros side.
The area is full of attractions and along your walk you’ll find some of the most impressive modernist houses in the city, the Tabakalera - a former tobacco factory that’s now been converted into a very cool international cultural center, and finally, Cristina Enea Park - probably the most bucolic and idyllic space in the city.
Not a bad alternative!
The Tabakalera cultural center. Photo: Tabakalera, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Cristina Enea Park. Photo: Carlos Cunha, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Explore Gros, one of the city’s trendies neighborhoods
Regardless of which activity you decide to start your day with, I think you should now explore the surrounding area, as this is a very cool part of San Sebastián. Start off, of course, with the Kursaal Conference Center, checking it out from up close and admiring its imposing and modern architecture.
And then dip into the neighborhood, which is the most hipster and cosmopolitan part of the city. This area is super popular with 20 and 30 year olds, and you’ll find lots of foreigners who live here, so it’s both youthful and international. It actually used to be a very working class area, but things have changed a lot in recent years and it’s been one of the hottest parts of town for a while now.
I would definitely suggest grabbing a typical vermouth somewhere in Cataluña Square, which is always lively and packed as it’s a popular meeting point.
Afterwards, do some wandering and check out some of the cool stores, bookshops, and cafes, of which there are many. Re-Read and Alabama Café are two personal favorites. At some point, be sure to also visit the famous bakery of Ja Arguiñano - if you ask me, this one is non-negotiable. Try anything and everything there - croissants, bread, roscas, pan au chocolat - it’s all exceptionally good.
The Kursaal Auditorium and Conference Center. Photo: Rodelar, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Plaza Cataluña in Gros. Photo: Валерий Дед, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Explore Sagüés and enjoy a tortilla Española while sitting on El Muro
Whenever you’re ready to move on, it’s time to head into Sagüés, the neighborhood just to the east of Gros that’s located right on the end of Zurriola beach. This was once a pretty poor area (much moreso than Gros), but it’s now one of the most sought-after parts of San Sebastián, mainly because it offers unbeatable views out over the Basque coast.
There are no sights of touristic interest, but it’s a nice local area that’s fun enough to go for a wander in and it’s the perfect spot to enjoy a hamaiketako, the late morning snack that is a tradition here. So make your way down toward the water until you reach El Muro, the rock wall that rises above the eastern end of Zurriola Beach.
Right next door is El Adamo, a bar famous for making the best tortilla Española in the city. So order a tortilla and a coffee to go, and then enjoy them while sitting atop El Muro and looking out over the water and city.
Afternoon
Time for lunch!
Well, it should be about lunchtime by this point, and in case it’s not already abundantly clear from the many food stops I’ve had you make over the last day and a half, you’re never going to want for dining options while in San Sebastián. And after having had a lot of pintxos yesterday, I figure you might want to mix it up a bit today, so I’ve got a couple of different options for you:
If you want to stay in/around Gros (you’ll be coming back here after lunch either way), there are a couple of good choices very close to El Muro: you have Saltxipi, a very traditional and pricier upscale spot; the hipster favorite of Desy, where you’ll find the best burger in the city; and Enxalao, a super stylish brunch place.
Now, if you don’t mind moving around a bit and you’re really hungry (because maybe you didn’t stop off at the various places I recommended for snacks earlier?!), then I’d suggest heading out to one of the cider houses (sagardotegi in Basque) in the hills on the outskirs of the city, where you can have an enormous and super traditional meal.
Although the menus in sagardotegi don’t change much from one place to the next (chorizo, cod omelette, cod in Basque sauce, T-bone steak, all served with all the cider you could possibly want, of course), I certainly have my favorites. In order of personal preference those are: Alztueta, Lizeaga, Saizar, Alorrenea, and Urdaira.
Hike Mount Ulia and walk the route to Pasaia
Regardless of where you end up for lunch, head back to Sagüés afterwards, as this is where your adventure for the rest of the afternoon/evening will begin:
Because it’s now time to work off the calories from all your treats and meals today, and in my opinion, there’s no better way to do that than with a hike. And here in Sagüés, Mount Ulia - one of the three “mountains” of San Sebastián - rises up from the sea, and its forested slopes hold countless great hiking trails.
There are lots of hikes here, and you of course have the option for a typical summit hike, but I think the most interesting trail is the one that connects San Sebastián with the super pretty maritime town of Pasaia. The walk to Pasaia is about 4.5 miles and should take around two hours, and all along the route you’ll see lovely scenery, lots of wildlife, and some pretty lighthouses.
And for anyone who doesn’t feel like walking but still wants to visit Pasaia, just head over to Ategorrieta Avenue and catch one of the buses that passes by there on their way to Pasaia. They run quite frequently and the trip will only cost about 2 euros.
Mount Ulia. Photo: Joxemai, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Explore Pasaia and have a glass of txakoli wine
Once you reach Pasaia, you’ll find yourself in a historic place with a fair deal of history. First of all, the town is built along an estuarine inlet enclosed between mountains that creates a beautiful bay, and it’s actually the only fjord in southern Europe!
And while this was once just a small fishing town, it has grown significantly since the 19th century, when it became the main port for the city of San Sebastián. Although it’s technically a separate town, the port was moved here when San Sebastián became too posh to have a “dirty” industrial/fishing port right in its city center. So Pasaia got it instead.
And finally, you must know that the town of Pasaia is divided into two different districts - San Juan and San Pedro - which are located on opposite sides of the bay, facing each other.
San Juan and San Pedro are both beautiful, tiny, picturesque, medieval fishing villages full of pedestrianized streets, narrow alleys, stone houses, and cute squares where the smell of the sea and its salty water constantly washes over you. You can get between the two “neighborhoods” via a little boat that crosses the 200 meters of water separating them every 15 minutes.
There’s also a cute sense of competition between these areas, and the people who live in San Juan say that the best thing about San Pedro is that they get to look out on beautiful San Juan, while the San Pedro residents of course say the opposite. It’s a fun rivalry and the residents are all very proud of their little town.
San Pedro is the one that you’ll arrive into first on your hike, so as soon as you descend from the trail, I’d suggest heading to Albaola, an old ship factory that has been converted into a museum about the maritime and seafaring history of this area.
At some point, I’d also strongly recommend sampling a glass of txakoli, a Basque sparkling white wine that’s produced in this region. The Falkon bar, sitting right beside the water, is always my favorite spot to do that when I’m here.
Colofrul houses on the water in Pasaia. Photo: Kent Wang from London, United Kingdom, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Traditional houses in Pasaia. Photo: Juan Lupión, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening
Dinner in Txulotxo (in Pasaia) and drinks back in San Sebastián
What a few days you’ve had. What a city. A perfect mix of ocean, activity, and food. And what better way to say goodbye to San Sebastián than with the plan I’m about to propose - the best possible ending to your trip!
For your final evening here, I suggest staying in Pasaia for dinner and enjoying an incredible meal in Txulotxo, over on the San Juan side of town. This is an incredibly atmospheric spot as evening sets in, with the sky darkening and the neighborhood’s lights starting to twinkle on.
The restaurant is right on the water, so grab a table by the window if you can, order a bottle of Galician wine (look, the Basque Country is wonderful, but when it comes to wine, Galicia is something else), ask the waiter which fish he recommends, and get ready for an incredible meal!
After dinner, you’ve got a few options for getting back downtown: you can have the restaurant call you a taxi, take the boat back over to San Pedro and catch a bus from there (the boat runs until 11:00 PM), or, if you still have some energy, walk the whole way - it’s about an hour back to Lo Viejo if you stick to the road rather than the mountain trail.
And if you’re up for one last late-night drink, here’s my recommendation: head back to Akerbeltz on the western edge of Lo Viejo, perched just above the port. Sip your first beer of the night with a view of La Concha Bay, and let the rest of the night unfold in the streets of the Old Town from there.
More Northern Spain travel info
For more advice on travel in the Basque Country and Northern Spain, check out some of our other guides and itineraries!
Alfonso Nuñez
Spain Expert based in San Sebastián
¡Hola y buenos días! 👋
Hi, I'm Alfonso, and I've been a tour guide and travel consultant here in Spain for the last 18 years. If you're looking for some local advice on your trip, I'd love to help!
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