A Local's Guide to Sifnos, Greece
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Nicknamed the ‘Island of harmony’, Sifnos packs a lot into its 74 square kilometers (28.5 square miles). A sophisticated, serene little island with a cliffy coast interrupted by deep inlets and sandy beaches, its interior is covered in rolling terraced hills that are dotted with pleasant whitewashed villages built to a human scale.
Although the gold and silver mines that made it fabulously wealthy in antiquity have long run dry, Sifnos exudes a sense of contentment and well-being. Because it has no airport, it has little boutique hotels and family guest houses instead of big resorts.
It isn’t an island with must see-attractions, and so far it has managed to keep most of the cruise ships away. This is in large part why I like it so much. This an island that invites you to linger, to discover its gentle rhythms, slow pace of life, and harmony.
Table of Contents
Sifnos planning cheatsheet
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My favorite hotels in Sifnos
- Gerofinikas Boutique Hotel - Beautiful luxury hotel in Apollonia. $250-400/night
- Platys Gialos Hotel - Lovely small hotel directly on the beach. $170-300/night
- Studio Anna - Brand new and pure beach vibes in Vathi. $200-250/night
- Ammos Sifnos Village - My favorite midrange choice. $120-220/night
- Hotel Afroditi - Peaceful little budget hotel in Kamares. $80-120/night
- Hotel Kamari - Simple, but exceptionally good value. $70-120/night
Unique experiences
How to get around
- Car rentals with DiscoverCars
- Bus routes from Moovit App
- Ferry tickets via FerryScanner
Where is Sifnos
How to get here
Ferry
One reason why Sifnos is relatively unspoiled is because it doesn’t have an airport. The only way to get there is by sea. Your main options are to take a ferry from Athens, Greece’s capital city, or from the islands of Serifos, Milos, & Kythnos, all of which have direct service to Sifnos. Bear in mind that departures are far less frequent over the winter months.
As a general rule, you pay more for speed: high-speed Sea Jet tickets cost about 50% more than the slower ferries, and as with flights, the earlier you book your ticket, the cheaper the fares.
The nearest airport is on Milos, but it’s small and only takes domestic flights, so unless you’re planning to visit Milos prior to Sifnos, flying won’t save any time and certainly not any money.
To check schedules and prices, I recommend using Ferry Scanner which is an aggregator that shows options from a bunch of different ferry companies.
Main connecting ports
From Athens: Ferries from Athens’ port of Piraeus to Sifnos depart almost daily. The journey takes 2.5-5 hours, and tickets cost $45-70, one way.
From Milos: Sea Jets to Sifnos take 45 minutes; a one-way ticket costs around $38.
From Santorini: The fastest sailing time is just under 3 hours; a one way ticket will be around $103.
From Naxos: Direct connections from Naxos to Sifnos are infrequent and begin in March; on Sea Jets the journey takes 4.5 hours and costs around $105.
Why visit
Epta Martyron church.
A visit to Sifnos is ideal for travelers looking to spend time on an authentic Greek island with a relaxed and slow pace of life. While there are no major attractions, the island has a number of pretty villages, sandy beaches with calm waters, good hiking trails, and a ceramic-making tradition that goes back 4,000 years, with workshops open to visitors.
There's also an excellent food and dining scene here, and you'll find some of the best restaurants in the Cyclades.
In general, Sifnos attracts a mix of beach lovers, foodies, families (its sandy beaches are safe for small children) and upmarket visitors in search of authenticity. It is the perfect island for visitors who want an authentic experience, but not one that feels remote or overly quiet.
If you're looking for nightlife, all-inclusive resorts, or beach clubs with fancy cocktails at your beck and call, Sifnos is not an island for you.
What is Sifnos known for
Sifnos is famous for its soft sandy beaches and the pure Cycladic architecture of its older villages that resemble bowls of sugar cubes spilled over the land. Its steep hills are corrugated with terraces, a souvenir from the centuries when the islanders had to grow most of their own food. Sifnos is not as arid as many of the other Cyclades, so there’s still a fair amount of agriculture; the island makes superb olive oil.
The island's reputation for its food and chefs dates back over a century, after it produced modern Greece’s first cookbook writer, Nikos Tselementes. He was first in a long line of well-known local chefs. The cuisine here is so renowned that in in summer it’s not unusual for a super yacht to anchor offshore just so the passengers can eat dinner at some excellent restaurant.
Along with creative Mediterranean dishes you’ll find classic Sifniot dishes such as mastelo, succulent lamb slow cooked in red wine, and revythada, chick pea stew, baked overnight in rain water.
Conveniently, the earthenware vessels essential for making these dishes are also made on Sifnos, thanks to its abundant fine clay. Pottery has been manufactured here for over 4,000 years. Today 19 pottery workshops across Sifnos carry on the tradition.
How long to spend
Chrisopigi Monastery
To visit Sifnos, you need to give yourself a minimum of 2 days, with 3-5 being ideal.
While not enough time to really do the island justice, with 3 days you can see the villages of Kastro, Apollonia, and Artemonas, enjoy the great beaches at Kamares and Platys Gialos, take a day cruise, go for a hike or two, visit the famed ceramics studios, and sample some of the island’s excellent restaurants.
Ideally, you’d stay at least 5 days to get a real feel for the island, to see everything there is to see, to try out a good range of its restaurants, and to let its tranquil, slow-paced life offer a real break from the stresses of the 21st century. In summer, there is always lots to see and do and you're certain to come across concerts, art exhibitions, and at least one village festival (paniyiri) with feasting, live music and dancing.
On the whole, Sifnos is an island for being rather than seeing. Many visitors fall in love with it and return year after year. My recommendations is that you linger long enough to find out why.
For a guide on how to spend a few days on Sifnos, check out my 2-day Sifnos itinerary.
Where to stay
Unlike many islands, accommodation is fairly evenly spread across Sifnos and there are all types of options - hotels, studios, apartments and budget guesthouses. Nearly all are small, family run, and should be booked well in advance in summer. If money’s no object, or you are visiting as a family or group of friends, consider renting a villa. There are beautiful ones on Sifnos, some with private pools.
If you’re looking to stay somewhere with a bit more going on in the summer, focus on the villages of Kamares, Platys Gialos and Apollonia. For quieter stays, consider Vathi or Artemonas.
If you want to be near a beach, enjoy beautiful sunsets, and have a good selection of tavernas and bars, shops, and activities, base yourself in Kamares. if you want a more Greek and less international atmosphere, consider Platys Gialos on the south coast which is especially popular with Greek families. Vathi on the southwest coast is a quieter choice, with a beach that’s sheltered from the meltemi winds.
Apollonia
Gerofinikas Boutique Hotel - A gorgeous boutique hotel high on hill with fantastic sea views. It's what I call “rustic-chic” and a perfect blend of comfort, style, and relaxation. $250-400 USD
Petali Village Hotel - Charming family-run hotel that's walking distance to both Apollonia and Artemonas. The pool area is quite nice and breakfast is great. $170-350 USD.
Kamares
Filadaki Villas - This gorgeous hotel/villa complex is on hill across the bay from Kamares (with great views of the town and sea). You have a mix of lovely suites and multi-bedrooms villas, many of which have private pools. Prices vary wildly from week to week and are sometimes surprisingly cheap or rather astronomically expensive. $175-700 USD.
Hotel Afroditi - Slightly removed from the hustle and bustle of town, but mere steps from the beach, this little hotel is cheap and cheerful. $80-120 USD.
Hotel Kamari - Right on the edge of town, the spacious and comfortable rooms here are probably the best deal you'll find. $120-120 USD
Makis Camping - The one campsite on Sifnos.
Platys Gialos
Platys Gialos Hotel - Overlooking the town's main beach, this cheerful hotel offers cute suites with sea views. Their breakfast is also seriously good. If you want to be right on the beach, it's great. $150-300 USD.
Ammos Sifnos Village - This is my favorite midrange hotel in town. It's right on the beach, the rooms are modern, spacious, and bright, and it's family run. There's nothing not to like! $120-220 USD.
Hotel Benaki - One block off the beach, the rooms here are simple and no frills, but immaculately clean and comfortable. Like most of my recommendations here, it's family-owned and operated. $70-150 USD
Cyclades Beach Hotel - Just steps from the beach, this little family-run guesthouse is great value. They're also one of the few hotels in town that stays open outside of the summer season. $60-150 USD.
Vathi
Elies Resort - A quick walk away from the beach, this stunning property has a large sea water pool, a spa, and a mix of suites and private villas. It's expensive, but really nice. It's $400+ USD
Studio Anna - Really pretty rooms directly in front of the beach. Everything is new, bright, and really well thought out. It's quite nice. $200-250 USD.
Artemonas
Windmill Bella Vista - Upscale, boutique hotel with spectacular views in a quiet setting outside of Artemonas. While this is a regular serviced hotel, a major plus is that the rooms are all apartments (1-2 bedrooms) with private kitchens. $170-300 USD.
Smaragadi Hotel - Very pleasant little 3-star hotel that's been recently renovated and has nice minimalist Cycladic style. The common areas are super pleasant and have good views. $175-200 USD.
Weather & when to visit
Spring
Sifnos is at its most beautiful in the spring, when much of it is green and the temperatures are perfect for trekking over the hills. Most people find the sea on a sheltered beach warm enough for a swim by late May. The island’s biggest annual festival at Panagia Chrissopigi takes place on Orthodox Ascension Day (Analypseos), in late May or June, which is also huge fun.
Summer
July and August are the hottest, busiest and most expensive months, especially August when all of Europe goes on vacation; this is also when the northerly meltemi wind (the ‘air conditioning’ of the Aegean) blows strongest and can make for rough seas and ferry cancellations, which is something to consider when booking flights to and from Athens.
Fall
September into early October are idyllic weeks on Sifnos, when the kids go back to school. It’s still warm enough to bask on the beach and swim in the sea, and cool enough for long walks--plus hotel prices tumble down. For three days in the middle of September, the island hosts the annual Cycladic Gastronomy Festival Nikolaos Tselemedes in the village of Artemonas, featuring visiting chefs from each island in the archipelago, preparing their local specialities.
The autumn rains usually arrive in mid-October, although these days the rains are harder to predict.
What to see and do
1. Go hiking
One of the best things to do on Sifnos is walk: a network of 19 trails, some dating back to the Bronze Age, crisscross the land and allow you to slowly drink in the beauty of the countryside.
Along the way you’ll find impressive dry stone walls, windmills (most of them minus their sails), 360 gleaming whitewashed churches and chapels, ancient mines, dovecots, and the ruins of a series of 5th-century BC signalling towers - Sifnos has 77, more than all the other Cycladic islands combined.
The most unforgettable walk is the trek up to Profítis Ilias tou Psilou Monastery (678m/2,237ft) at the island’s highest point, site of a fortress-like monastery dedicated to the Prophet Elijah, dating from the 8th century; the trail begins southwest of Apollonia and takes about two hours: the reward is spectacular views over the entire island and beyond.
For a look at all the trails, check out - https://sifnostrails.com.
Photo: Zde, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Take an e-bike tour
Based in Apollonia, Sifnos Bike Experience offers an excellent way to see the best of Sifnos if time is short. Choose between a tour through the villages, the countryside, or the ‘ultimate sunset tour’.
3. Cruise the sea on a traditional wooden boat
Aegeas Cruises and Amanda Boat tours, both based in Platys Gialos, offer full day cruises including lunch and refreshments to the isolated beaches of Sifnos or the spectacular volcanic islet of Poliegos, a Natura 2000 site—the choice will depend on the weather.
4. Take a cooking lesson
On this food-obsessed island, consider taking a cooking lesson: the organic family-run Narlis Farm just outside Apollonia offers tours of the farm and classes on how to prepare traditional Sifniot dishes.
5. Visit ceramic workshops
While every village on Sifnos has at least one ceramics shop, workshops are concentrated in Kamares, Artemonas, and Platys Gialos. A few welcome visitors, including Yiannis Apostolides whose pottery is located just outside Kamares, Lempesis in Artemonas (best to ring ahead, +30 22840 32010), and Atsonios in Vathi.
6. Wander around Apollonia
The pretty capital of Sifnos, Apollonia is located in the centre of the island. Named after the god Apollo, it’s a showcase of Cycladic architecture, immaculately white washed, and lively after dark in summer when its bars and restaurants along the Steno or ‘nightlife alley’ attract people from across the island. In the main square, there’s a little folklore museum on Plateia Iroon, open summer evenings
The village of Apollonia. Photo: Kondephy, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Check out Artemonas
Apollo’s twin sister is Artemis, the goddess of the hunt, and Artemonas is Apollonia’s twin village just to the north, where the multi-domed church of Panagia Koghis occupies the site of the goddess’s ancient temple. Artemonas is the swankier of the two villages, with a number of late 19th-century Neoclassical houses, and lovely views across the island from the belvedere near the windmills.
Artemonas seen from Agios Andreas. Photo: Zde, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
8. Get lost in Kastro
The ancient and medieval capital of Sifnos, Kastro sits high on a cliff over the sea under a ruined Venetian castle. Wander through its labyrinth of narrow streets, designed to confuse invaders, dotted with ancient columns, Roman urns and reliefs from centuries gone by; the most precious artefacts are housed in the little Archaeology Museum.
There are some nice bars in Kastro and a few rooms to rent, and fish tavernas down by the little pebble beach of Seralia. After visiting Kastro, walk down to the little blue domed chapel of Epta Martyron, isolated on a rocky cape, then follow the beautiful coastal path to another picturesque seaside church, Panagia Poulati.
Kastro. Photo: Kondephy, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Yupsanex, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Yupsanex, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
9. Try rock climbing
The cliffs around Kamares have been equipped with 70 rock climbing routes although you’ll need to bring all your own ropes and equipment. Check out Sifnos Climbing if you’re interested.
10. Visit a Mycenaean acropolis
Located on a commanding hilltop with views down to the sea, the church of Agios Andreas stands in the midst of Sifnos’s most important archaeological site: the recently excavated walls and towers of a Mycenaean Acropolis dating from the 12th century BC, along with the foundations of five buildings that were inhabited into the 8th century BC and beyond. A little archaeology museum on the site helps to make sense of it all.
Agios Andreas archaeological site. Photo: Zde, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
11. Marvel at Chrissopigi Monastery
Photo: KASPAR, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Undoubtedly Sifnos’ most famous site, Chrissopigi Monastery about 8 km from Apollonia is in a truly stunning location. If I'm being totally honest, the church itself is not particularly impressive, but the location of this little white monastery from the 17th century, is stunning.
Best beaches
Platys Gialos
Located on the south coast, sandy Blue Flag Platys Gialos is second longest beach on Sifnos and the liveliest in summer (if it’s too lively, you can hire a dinghy, canoe, RIB or sailboat for a day from Bloo Marine.
Platys Gialos also boasts superb restaurants, including the fish bar Omega 3 - which has counted Jeff Bezos and Tom Hanks among its clients.
Kamares
Conveniently located near the ferry port, this long sandy Blue Flag beach on the west coast enjoys magnificent sunsets; it’s well endowed with bars and tavernas, and the Sifnos Diving Center.
Vathi
Set back in a deep bay, this sheltered beach is protected from the wind and gently shelves into crystal waters, making it a good bet for small children. Trees provide shade and there are good tavernas nearby.
Chrissopigi
The prettiest of the three sandy beaches near the south coast village of Faros, Chrissopigi has tamarisks and a taverna. Combine a swim with a visit to the picturesque church of the island’s patron saint, Panagia Chrissopigi, built in 1650 and a favorite for weddings and baptisms.
Cheronissos
This little sandy beach is in an unspoilt fishing village in the far north of Sifnos, with trees and a handful of places to eat and drink; it’s perfect for spending a lazy day away from the crowds.
How to get around
Public transport
Sifnos is decently served by public transport in the summertime, but rather tough to get around in winter.
In summer, there are local buses almost every hour during the daytime that go between the island’s villages and some of its beaches. In the evening and nighttime service slows down, with buses only every couple hours.
In winter, you only have two or three buses a day.
Bus tickets on Sifnos cost $2—$2.50. While in summer you can move around by bus, you won’t be able to get everywhere you want to go and you’ll lose a lot of time. To get to secluded beaches, good hikes, interesting sites, and anything not directly between one town or another, you’ll be out of luck.
For serious exploring, you’ll need to rent a car, jeep, motorbike/ATV, or e-bike.
You can check routes via Moovit.
Taxis
There are also taxis on Sifnos, but you cannot hail them on the street. All journeys will need to be reserved in advance. To hire a taxi, call +30 697 320 9720 or +30 697 320 9720.
Car rental
Most car rentals have to be picked up in the town of Kamares, by the port. You have a couple agencies also in Apollonia.
For car rentals, check out Suntrail or Elmar. Motor bikes and ATV’s can be rented with Protomotocar and you can rent an e-bike with Sifnos Bike Experience.
If you’re planning on renting a car, I also always recommend checking prices on DiscoverCars. It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can find great deals.
More Greece travel info
For more advice on planning your trip to Greece, have a look at some of our other guides and itineraries!
Cyclades islands
Athens
Greece
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