A Local’s Guide to Visiting Kea, Greece
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Kea is the closest Cycladic island to Athens, but paradoxically, despite its proximity the Greece’s capital city, it remains somewhat undiscovered by the majority of international visitors. However, it holds a special place in the hearts of Greeks, especially Athenians. Kea or Tzia, as they most often call it in Greece, is a favored destination for short getaways or weekend trips.
Things are changing though, and in recent years, its easy accessibility from Athens, and more importantly, its own natural magnificence have contributed to more and more foreign guests finding their way to the island.
Boasting magnificent beaches, a stunning natural landscape, picturesque villages, and rich historical and cultural attractions, Kea seamlessly combines an aura of relaxation and freedom with authentic and wild Cycladic beauty. The island's capital, Ioulida, stands out for its charming architecture, cobblestone streets and depth of entertainment options.
Furthermore, Kea is renowned for its network of traditional paths that wind through the island’s forests, leading to lovely coves, beaches, and ancient sites. Its dense vegetation sets it apart from the rest of the Cyclades islands, with much of it being protected by the Natura 2000 network.
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Where is Kea
Kea (sometimes written as Tzia), is the westernmost island of the Cyclades island group, and the closest to Athens, sitting just 38 nautical miles southeast of Greece’s capital city. From the port of Lavrio, which is in the southern part of the Attica peninsula (south of Athens), Kea is even closer – only 12 nautical miles away.
To the northwest of Kea sits the historic desert island of Makronisos, while Kythnos is quite nearby to the island’s south.
Kea is a midsized Cycladic island, covering a land area of approximately 58 square miles. There are around 2,400 year-round residents, who mainly reside in the towns of Ioulida and Korissia.
How to get here
Kea has no airport, and considering its proximity to Athens Piraeus port and the port of Lavrio, the ferry is certainly the easiest way to get here.
By ferry from Athens
Ferries depart at least daily from the port of Lavrio, with multiple connections each day during the summer months. The journey takes approximately 1 hour and one-way tickets average around 15 euros.
If you’ll be arriving to Greece from abroad and plan to head straight to Kea, this is quite easy to do from Athen’s Eleftherios Venizelos airport. The port of Lavrio is only around 30 kilometers (and 30 minutes) from the airport, and there is very frequent bus service connecting the two destinations. You can also take a taxi, which will be relatively affordable considering the fairly short distance.
By ferry from other islands
Kea is also connected by ferry to Syros, Paros, Tinos, Kythnos, Sikinos, Milos, Folegandros, Ios, and Kimolos through an inter-Cycladic route operated year-round by Hellenic Seaways. This route runs up to 2 times per week, so be sure to check the schedule if you’re planning to travel between Kea and other islands.
Where to buy ferry tickets
The main ferry companies serving Kea are Goutos Lines and Hellenic Seaways (Blue Star Ferries).
To check schedules and prices, I recommend using Ferry Scanner. It’s an aggregator that shows options from a bunch of different ferry companies. Their schedules are always up to date, it’s easy to use, and the price difference between using them and booking direct is negligible.
Why visit
While there are countless reasons to visit Kea, the island has three especially big draws that pull visitors here:
It’s very close to Athens, so you can get here easily and have a taste of island life without having to plan an extensive or complicated island hopping trip.
An important island dating back to antiquity, Kea has many interesting historical and archaeological sites. In ancient times, there were four flourishing cities on the island: Ioulida, Karthaea, Korissia, and Poieessa, and each holds monuments and traces of Kea’s ancient origins.
The island is naturally gorgeous. Unlike most of the Cycladic islands, which are quite dry and brown, Kea has dense vegetation and greenery all around you. There are many winding trails and paths that run through the forests, eventually taking you out to beautiful, tranquil beaches.
Here’s some more of what the island has to offer:
The city of Ioulida, serving as both the capital and a protected settlement, is perched amphitheatrically on the slopes of two hills, providing a breathtaking view of the Aegean Sea. The town’s typical Cycladic architecture and cobblestone streets are lovely, and sunlight shines down on you everywhere you go. This creates the perfect setting for leisurely strolls.
Kea's coastline, mirroring the island's unique morphology, serves as an exquisite ornament and a draw for both locals and visitors. There is an abundance of beaches with crystal-clear waters, ranging from organized ones with easy access to more secluded gems waiting to be discovered. With good conditions for water sports like windsurfing, jet skiing, kite surfing, and more, you can also easily head out on the water and get active.
Kea's seabed, renowned for its shipwrecks and biodiversity, is a perfect setting for organized group dives or individual ones. Even the world-famous oceanographer J. Cousteau acknowledged Kea's seabed as one of the most beautiful he ever encountered.
Kea also have an extensive network of trails that crisscross the island, leading out to beaches, historical sites, monuments, and more.
Additionally, the island is relatively busy year-round, meaning that you can visit at any time and still find lots going on. And being a popular getaway destination for Athenians of all stripes, you’ll find everything from budget luxury options.
What is Kea known for
In ancient times, Kea was known as "Ydrousa" due to its abundant waters and dense vegetation. During the Turkish occupation, from the 1500’s to the 1800’s, the island was referred to as Tzia, the name by which Greeks still refer to it today (Kea is an anglicized spelling).
The capital of Kea, the majestic Ioulida, is situated in the heart of the island, built upon the ancient city of the same name. This picturesque settlement is adorned with traditional houses featuring tiled roofs, cobblestone alleys, covered arcades (designed by the renowned painter Alekos Fassianos), and many narrow little steps and passageways.
Korissia (also known as Livadi), the port of Kea, is another pleasant town, and is located about 5 kilometers from Ioulida on the west side of the island. The port is charming and cosmopolitan, and hosts a variety of shops, cafes, and restaurants, in addition to beautiful sandy beaches.
While not especially important for visitors, an interesting factoid is that Kea has one of the largest natural harbors (bays) in the Mediterranean, the bay of Agios Nikolaos.
Close to Korissia is the famous Vourkari, a coastal settlement amphitheatrically built on a hill, with stunning sea views.
This entire area exudes a cosmopolitan atmosphere, and the pier is always bustling with boats during the summer, surrounded by fish taverns, galleries, and lively nightlife.
Despite its busy atmosphere and cosmopolitan vibes, Kea is also an ideal destination for travelers seeking nature, a bit of seclusion, and interesting historical sites.
There are 36 kilometers of cobbled paths spread all over the island, which were once part of the road network connecting the island’s city-states in ancient times. Each path is marked with red and white signs and many of them offer unique historical and natural attractions along their routes.
As mentioned above, Kea stands out among the Aegean islands for its rich flora and dense vegetation. Here, you’ll find magnificent forests of Royal Oak – some of the few remaining in the Aegean - stretching across central and eastern Kea. The island is home to 16 of the 1,300 plant species that grow exclusively in Greece, and of these 16 endemic plants, 5 have been classified as rare.
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Best time to visit
The port of Korissia. Photo: Richard Wurdel, CC BY-SA 2.0 DE, via Wikimedia Commons
Kea is a year-round destination, mainly owing to its very close proximity to Athens and easy access to the mainland, as well as its relatively sizable year-round population. You can visit Kea at any time of year and there will still be action and life going on around you, which is quite rare for the Greek islands.
Kea does not live off of tourism, so it’s an excellent choice if you’re looking for an island to visit in the off-season.
Even so, visiting the islands is mostly about the sea, the beach, and sunshine and warm weather, so the best time best time to visit is from May to September (late spring through early fall). During this period, all tourist infrastructure (accommodations, restaurants, services, tour operators, etc.) will be open and in full swing, and the island will be lively and exciting.
If your schedule is flexible, I would especially recommend visiting in either May or September. During both of these months the weather will be warm but not too hot, the sea will be a pleasant temperature for swimming, and the long sunny days are ideal for long walks exploring Kea’s many trails.
In May, the island’s flowers will be in full bloom, so you’ll have vibrant colors all around you.
July and August are the height of high season, and the weather is very hot during this time, making it less than ideal for long days exploring the trails or island’s settlements. Also, this is when most Greeks take their yearly holiday, so Kea will be busiest during this period and prices for everything will be quite high.
The winter months are quiet and the weather is fairly cold, and lots of tourism-focused establishments will be closed for the season. However, if you happen to be in Greece in winter and just need a taste of island life, Kea is one of the few islands that’s close enough to be convenient for a short trip, and there will be enough going on that you won’t feel like you’re in a ghost town.
How long to stay for
Kea is often visited as a day trip from Athens, especially during the weekends when Greeks want to get away from the city. While a day isn’t nearly enough time to see everything, it will still give you a chance to explore Ioulida, do a little bit of hiking, and lounge on the beach for a few hours. It’s the perfect escape from the city, and if nothing else, will give you your first brief glimpse of island life.
If you have more time to spare, I would suggest staying for at least three days. Kea is fairly sizable, it has a lot of great beaches to check out, there are numerous pleasant villages worth exploring, lots of historical monuments and sights, and the island’s two main towns, Ioulida and Korissia, are fun places to hang out in for a few days.
Where to stay
Ioulida - if you want to be in the middle of the action
The primary hub for accommodations on Kea is the enchanting town of Ioulida (the island’s Chora), which offers all the essential amenities and services. Ioulida, distinguished by its white houses with red-tiled roofs, is a beautiful town that stands out from other Cycladic villages. Add in the magnificent ocean views, the medieval castle, and pretty windmills, and you’ve got a town that is pretty hard to beat.
Ioulida is also the hub for transportation on the island, and all of the buses heading to beaches, towns, and other attractions depart from here.
Smaller coastal villages - if you want to a quiet stay on the beach
For stays right on the beach, other options include the towns of Korrissia, Otzias, Vourkari, Poisses, and Koundouros. Korissia is the biggest, busiest, and most cosmopolitan of these, while the other towns are more tranquil.
Otzias offers family-oriented accommodations and one of the most popular beaches on the island is right in town. Located in a bay, Otzias beach is wide and sandy with clear, shallow waters, making it ideal for families with children. There are sunbeds and umbrellas for rent, and taverns along the shore.
I recommend Anemous Studios ($100 per night)
Vourkari, once a small fishing village, has developed into a lively town in recent years, especially during the summer. There are a few very nice upscale accommodations in town. Along the waterfront, there are cafes, restaurants, bars, and services both for people staying in town those arriving by sailboat who anchor offshore.
In Vourkari, I suggest looking at Ydor Hotel and Spa ($250 per night) and Vourkari Village ($175 per night).
Poisses, a quiet waterfront settlement, has a few amenities such as accommodations, taverns, and minimarkets, and also the only camping site on the island (https://www.campingkea.gr). The beach here is popular and it faces west, making it ideal for those who enjoy afternoon swims and sunset views.
Koundouros isn't exactly a village, but it has experienced significant development in recent years, acquiring a more exclusive ambiance. It's an ideal destination for those seeking an upscale place to relax, swim, and partake in water sports.
In Koundouros, check out Porto Koundouros Villas for stylish beachside accommodation. You can get a private villa for around $250 per night in the summer.
Transportation and getting around
Bus
Kea actually has rather good public transportation, with buses that operate year-round, connecting the major settlements and beaches. Almost all buses originate in Ioulida, and there is regular daily service with multiple departures throughout the day. You can see all the routes and schedules here.
Renting a car
While the bus network is pretty good, having a car will always give you more flexibility and freedom, so if you want to be able to travel all over the island at your own pace, I’d suggest renting a car. Rent a Car Kea and Eos Rental are two good local companies.
If you’re planning on renting a car, I also always recommend checking prices on DiscoverCars. It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can find great deals.
Taxis
For taxis, there are 6 cabs on the island, which can be reached by phone at +302281200150.
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What to see and do
The ancient Lion of Kea statue. Photo: Phso2, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
1. Explore Ioulida
Taking the time to explore Ioulida is truly rewarding, as it allows you to marvel at numerous monuments that transport you through both time and space. The village is adorned with colorful, typically two-story houses, many boasting tiled roofs. The cobbled streets contribute to the village's inviting and relaxed atmosphere.
Be sure to visit the impressive neoclassical structures designed by the renowned German architect Ernst Ziller, including the New Town Hall and the Historic Town Hall, which enhance the charm of the capital. Wander through the charming alleys leading to the path to Ozias in the northeastern part of Ioulida, where you'll encounter the renowned Ancient Lion - a monumental sculptural masterpiece carved into natural rock (7th - 6th century BC) and a symbol of the island.
In the central square of the capital, discover the works of the celebrated Greek painter Alekos Fassianos showcased in one of the stegadia. Take a moment to explore the churches of Panagia Chrysospiliotissa, Evangelismos, Agios Spyridonos, Panagia Rematiani, Agios Dimitrios, and Panagia Gamilas. Each holds its own unique charm and historical significance.
2. Tour the archaeological sites
When it comes to ancient discoveries and cultural attractions, a visit to Ancient Ioulida is a must. It served as Kea's capital from the late Roman to the early Byzantine times and is home to a medieval castle from the 13th century, featuring embedded ancient materials.
In Korissia, just above the port dock, you'll find the small chapel dedicated to Agios Savvas, as well as being a great spot to watch the sunset when you look down from here towards the church of Agia Triada, the cemetery, and the harbor dock, you can still observe remnants of ancient houses from ancient Korissos.
Additionally, this area is where the famous Kouros of Kea was discovered, a highly significant sculpture from the Archaic period now exhibited at the National Archaeological Museum.
Opposite Vourkari lies the peninsula of Agia Irini, named after the picturesque chapel of the same name. Here, you'll find one of the most important prehistoric settlements in the Cyclades, dating back to the end of the Neolithic era (3000 BC). It only opens during Summer in the weekends.
Southwest of the island's capital, between the ancient cities of Ioulida and Poieessa, discover the Monastery of Agia Marina, founded in 1600. Within its precinct stands a five-storey tower from the Hellenistic era (4th BC).
Another captivating experience awaits at the archaeological site of Ancient Karthaia in the southeast, once one of Kea's flourishing cities in antiquity. It can be reached only by walking (or by boat). The route starts from Chavouna (also reachable by bus) and is about 2km (well-marked) to the archaeological site (and as much to return), but the possibility of pairing a visit to the site and, at the same time, some relaxation on the beach is unparalleled.
Last, the Archeological Museum in Ioulida showcases unique findings from Kea's historical sites.
3. Check out the Emaye Factory
In Korissia, a tall chimney stands as a testament to Kea's recent history. The "Emaye" factory, established in 1927 and operational until the late 1950s, was the sole producer (and exporter) of enamel cookware and utensils in Greece.
Today, it retains equipment and machinery from that era, serving as a poignant reminder that, until a few years ago, Kea—and Greek islands in general—relied on industries beyond tourism.
4. Visit the churches and monasteries (with stunning views)
Taking the path from Ioulida to Karthaia, you will find the church of Agios Simeon, in the area of Kato Meria, built on the site of a temple dedicated to Aphrodite, with a view of the vast Aegean Sea and an incredible sunset.
A special view can also be found at the Monastery of Panagia Kastriani, founded in 1700 AD in Kastri and built on the edge of a cliff.
5. Enjoy the nightlife
For nightlife, the most lively settlements are Ioulida, Vourkari and Gialiskari. Some clubs play international hits until early in the morning, while there are also cafes and bars with traditional music in every corner of the island.
There is also the option of the summer cinema of Korrissia, under the starry sky and with drinks by the sea.
6. Go hiking
The numerous paths and cobbled streets with a total length of 81km have been preserved and have been integrated into an organized and signposted hiking network of 12 routes by the Municipality of Kea and the South Aegean Region.
A reasonably easy but at the same time exemplary trek is the one that leads from Ioulida to Otzias and offers a synthesis of all that Kea represents: history, nature and the sea.
Beginning in Ioulida, it is about 5.5km mostly downhill. The first, surprising stop is the famous Lion of Kea, a rock with an impressive lion sculpture carved out of granite. Dating back to the 6th century B.C., but about which not much is known: certainly the lion's smile is almost as enigmatic as that of the Mona Lisa. Continuing further, we pass by the so- called “Benjamin” Spring, with its marble troughs surrounded by greenery, it offers a moment of shade and a very nice view. Then the path continues until you reach the village of Otzias and its beach for a refreshing swim.
From Otzias you can then return to Ioulida by bus or cab.
There are more trails connecting and branching off from the four ancient independent city-states of the island (Ioulida, Karthaia, Korissia, Poieessa). For excellent hiking information including routes, distances, etc., I always suggest checking Topo guide.
If you want an organized hiking or cycling excursion, the office https://keaterraactive.com/ is specialized and can offer you various unique experiences.
7. Go diving and explore the seabed
Kea in the Cyclades is a unique destination for diving enthusiasts. There are four famous shipwrecks in its waters, the ocean liner Britannikos, the brother of the Titanic, the steamship Patris, commissioned by King Otto and built in Thames, which in February 1868 fell into a dry sea off Koundouros, the French ocean liner "S/S Burdigala", 180 m long. sunk by a mine in 1916 and the German Junkers 52 plane of World War II.
The dive center (https://www.keadivers.com/) is based in Vourkari and Koundouraki and offers everything from beginner courses to technical diving.
8. Attend an event
Kea, as a genuine Cycladic island, actively participates in festivals throughout the year, such as the Transfiguration of the Savior (on August 6 in Pisses), August 15 in Ioulis, and in the monastery of Kastriani, Agios Sozontos on September 7 in Ozias, Agios Charalambos, who is also the patron saint. It is no coincidence that in every corner of Kea, you will find a chapel and the inhabitants organize festivals on every occasion.
Special events are organized in Kea every year, such as the Fairy Tale Festival in July: A celebration created by the need to highlight the island's folk myths and beliefs alongside its ancient stone paths.
The Fairy Tale Celebrations for young and old, where storytellers, gifted storytellers, musicians and artists come from all over the world to transport with their fascinating tales and creative events to fantastic places (ancient paths, beaches, archaeological sites, picturesque alleys, village squares) those who love fairy tales.
9. Sample the local specialties
The island offers delectable local products, such as the renowned local Loza, "Aegean prosciutto," sausage, dried tomatoes, honey, bee products, Mavroudi wine, and exceptional cheeses like dry cheese, sour cheese, and kopanisto. Don't miss the Tirakeion in Ioulida, specializing in cheeses.
These delights are showcased in taverns and restaurants, with many concentrated in Korissia, Ioulida, and Vourkari.
To further immerse yourself in the rich culinary traditions, consider participating in a cooking class in the beautiful setting of a Kean house. https://www.keartisanal.com provides day courses or extended stays focused on exploring the culture, nature, and, notably, the cuisine of Kea.
10. Visit a winery
A visit to Georgios Paouris's winery in Pera Meria introduces you to the family's cultivation of unique grape varieties like Mavraki, Mileiko, and Roditis.
Best beaches on the island
Looking down on Sykamia beach. Photo: Yannis Tsoumos, CC BY-SA 1.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Kea boasts a variety of beaches, from easily accessible to remote paradises reached only by dirt roads. Here's a quick selection:
Ozias - located in the north, Ozias has a sheltered bay and calm waters. An organized beach, there are umbrellas and sunbeds for rent, as well as taverns to eat at.
Koundouros - positioned on the west side of the island, Koundouros beach is one of Kea’s busiest. It has sandy shores and shallow, turquoise waters, as well as shade offered by the tamarisk trees along the beach. Another organized beach, there are umbrellas to rent and water sport rentals.
Koundouraki - situated near Koundouros, this cosmopolitan, organized beach has all the amenities and services that you need to spend the full day here. It also has very clear water.
Xyla - always a popular choice, Xyla presents golden sand and deep blue waters as well as many beachfront amenities.
Pisses - found in a picturesque village, Pisses offers a long sandy beach with tamarisk trees and stunning sunsets.
Yialiskari - a medium-sized beach with lined with tamarisk trees, Yialiskari has crystal-clear waters and a pleasant beach bar.
Sykamia - this is a quiet, sandy east coast beach reachable only by dirt road.
Spathi - the largest beach on Kea's east coast, Spathi offers tranquility and blue waters.
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