A Local’s Guide to Milos, Greece
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Milos is an island forged by volcanic eruptions that took place in the Aegean sea from to 2-3 million years ago until 90.000 years ago. The volcanic origins of this blessed gem carved a distinctive scenery unlike any other in the world with volcanic rocks, colorful beaches, breathtaking sea caves, and lunar landscapes.
This enchanting Cycladian jewel presents a timeless charm that draws local Greeks and international visitors alike.
Every place and landscape is so unique and divergent that nothing is repeated. The scenery changes so dramatically that you feel as if you're on another island every time you visit a new beach (of which there are over 40!).
The island of Milos was also the home of the infamous Venus de Milo statue, one of world art history's most significant sculptures which captivates audiences up to this day. Unearthed at Milos island in the year 1820 and exhibited at the Louvre Museum, this super-sized marble that is believed to depict Goddess Aphrodite, is an art masterpiece that celebrates female beauty in perfect form and shape.
Table of Contents
Where is Milos
Photo: User: Bgabel at wikivoyage shared, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Milos is located at the far southwest of the Cycladic island group, 155 nautical km (84 nautical miles) from Athens.
With a land area of 151 square kilometers, it is the 5th biggest island of the Cyclades and has a year round population of approximately 6000 permanent residents. It boasts 120 km of coastline. A large picturesque gulf in the center of the island gives it its characteristic horseshoe form.
The islands of Kimolos and Sifnos lie to its north while Folegandros and Santorini sit to the southeast.
How to get to Milos
Milos is accessible by plane and ferry from Athens and via ferry from many other islands in the Cyclades.
By plane
While Milos has an airport, it currently only services domestic flights from Athens, so international travelers will always have to make a connection there.
By ferry
Ferries to Milos from Athens run all throughout the year. Over the winter you may only have a few departures each week, but by April that usually increases to 2 per day, rising to 3 (or more) daily departures over the summer months.
Boats depart from both Piraeus and Lavrion ports and the journey takes 2 hours and 40 minutes aboard a high-speed ferry, but can take 6-7 hours via slower boats. Tickets cost from 48 euros, one way.
For island hoppers, there are many available ferry connections between Milos and other islands, especially during peak season. Santorini, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Crete (Heraklion), Folegandros, Ios, Serifos and Sifnos all have direct ferry connections with Milos.
Where to buy ferry tickets
To check schedules and prices, I recommend using Ferry Scanner which is an aggregator that shows options from a bunch of different ferry companies.
Why visit
The attractions of Milos are so many and varied that there are countless reasons you should visit.
First and foremost, the beaches are fantastic. Sarakiniko and Kleftiko (steeped in pirate legend), with their white rock formations, emerald green waters, and sea-eroded caves are some of the most beautiful in Greece.
The island is also quite a bit more sophisticated than many of its neighbors, but still retains an authentic charm and has managed to avoid the mass tourism feel of places like Santorini and Mykonos. It's elegant, but not pretentious.
Early Christian catacombs, an abundance of virgin beaches, and the colorful villages of Klima, Emborios, and Mandrakia, with their picturesque structures built into the cliffs are just a few "must visits". And as the days wind down, you’re treated to one breathtaking sunset after another in Plaka town.
Away from the water, Milos has plenty of pretty villages and a good number of museums that house various types of exhibits. There are excellent restaurants all over the island serving Greek and international cuisine, a bit of nightlife (though nothing that will disturb your sleep), quality local products to shop for, and many events and festivals, especially in the summertime. There's lots to do.
Although an all time favorite of couples, during the last years Milos has also become a top choice for small groups of friends ranging in age from around 30 to 50. They all come seeking Milos’ effortless elegance, authenticity, and laid-back atmosphere.
What is Milos known for
Milos is the western Cyclades' southernmost island and one its most renowned. The island has a special topography that features a great variety of landscapes, a product of its geological origins.
Part of an area called the South Aegean Volcanic Arc - formed during a period of tectonic movement caused by the sinking of the African plate beneath the Eurasian plate - Milos’ geologic make up is unlike anything anywhere else in the Cyclades.
The variations in the island’s geology, derived from the presence of clay minerals, obsidian and the cooling of volcanic lava, have resulted in some of the most astonishing beaches in Greece. Here, you’ll find long sandy beaches, rocky coves, and sections of coast made up of smooth lunar-like rock formations that fall into the water.
Beyond its landscapes, Milos also has a vast history dating back to the Neolithic age. The economy of the island was based mainly on exporting tools and weapons made of obsidian and minerals from the many sulphur mines, all products of the island’s volcanic past.
During the Bronze Age, Milos thrived as the center of the Cyclades, followed by ups and downs during the Classical Ages. During the Hellenic years, the island flourished again, showcasing fine art samples such as the world-renowned Venus de Milo and the Statue of Poseidon.
During the Roman era, Milos saw a quick growth of Christianity and catacombs similar to those in Rome were built in the first century AD. In the Medieval ages and during the subsequent Ottoman rule, Milos’ fate was similar to that of the rest of Greece.
At present, the island is one of the most significant tourist destinations of Greece, nonetheless managing to remain untouched by mass tourism. It is one of few destination in the world that has been able to develop touristically without losing its authenticity.
How many days to spend
Assuming you're planning a trip to various different islands in the Cyclades, you should give yourself at least 3 or 4 days on Milos. The island is fairly small and you could visit in just 2 days, but that doesn't give you enough time to really enjoy it.
Milos is one of the most pleasant islands in the Cyclades and you have great beaches and pretty towns. You'll want to relax here, so give yourself enough time to do so.
3-4 days gives you the time to explore the island extensively; you'll be able to take dips at some wonderful beaches, visit a number of picturesque villages, go on a boat tour, enjoy leisurely meals, and get a little culture at one or two of the island's museums.
If there's one thing you can be certain of, it's that you won't regret having more time here!
What to see and do
1. Stroll Klima village (and Mandrakia)
Klima, near Plaka, is one of Milos' most scenic destinations. It is a charming village situated just in front of the sea and populated by the island's fishermen.
The town's classic residences, known as syrmata, are the main draw. Dwellings which were originally carved into the rocks directly in front of the sea, they were traditionally used as the dwellings and "garages”of fishermen. They're famous for their stark white color with brightly colored doors, balconies, and shutters, all of which contrast brilliantly with the sea in front of them.
Many have been converted into very pleasant accommodation for travelers, so staying in one is a potential option. Aside from the lovely buildings, Klima also offers spectacular sunsets.
Another fishermen's village that I particularly like is Mandrakia. Its appeal is essentially the same.
"Syrma" fishermen's huts in the town of Klima
Boats in Mandrakia's little harbor
2. Visit the Christian Catacombs and the ancient theater
The famed underground Catacombs of Milos are considered to be the most important early Christian monument of worship in all of Greece.
Located in the town of Tripiti, they were built sometime in the 1st century AD and then "lost” until being re-discovered in the 1840s. The underground complex is made up of a criss-crossing series of hallways and death chambers.
Lights have been installed in the many archways that line the tunnels and the combination of the ancient and silent setting, low lighting, and cool and humid air, create an ambiance that is eerie and totally different from the Cycladic scenery you'll have come from.
If you're into archaeology, you can combine a visit to the tombs with a stop at the Ancient Theatre of Tripiti, an amphitheater erected by the Romans. Unfortunately, the theater has not been terribly well cared for, but it's still interesting to see.
The catacombs. Photo: Zde, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Take a boat tour to Kleftiko beach & sea caves
The cliffs and coast of Kleftiko is the most visited place on the island. The rocky coastline breaks off into the sea where rock formations jut out. Sea caves dot the entire area, making it a perfect place for swimming and snorkeling.
The best way to experience all of this is on a boat tour, for which there are many options. Half-day tours typically just take in the beach and caves, while full-day tours often also visit other hard-to-reach spots and secret coves.
Here are some tour options:
Kleftiko's rocky outcrops and sea caves
4. Explore Plaka town
Plaka is the capital of Milos and it's a lovely town from the 1800s built in the traditional Cycladic style: simple whitewashed buildings around narrow streets and alleyways, clustered atop a hill.
There are no specific sights in the village, but it's a charming place to wander. Flowers and plants bloom in ceramic pots and miniature gardens on every corner, adding a splash of color to the white and blue landscape.
Hilltop Plaka town overlooking the sea
5. Check out the archeological museum
The Milos Archaeological Museum is located in Plaka. It is housed in an 1870s Neoclassical structure designed by architect E. Ziller.
It reopened as a museum in 1985, following several repairs. An impressive replica of the Venus de Milo statue stands imposingly at the entrance of the museum. Sadly, the actual statue is no longer in Greece, instead kept at the Louvre in Paris.
The museum houses prehistoric artifacts from Phylakopi, sculptures, relics, obsidian tools and pieces, and ancient inscriptions. There are also works by local potters and painters, including figurines, statues, anaglyphs, and coins.
Marble statues on display at the museum. Photo: Zde, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Catch a sunset from the Venetian “Kastro”
The Venetian Kastro (castle) is located on the highest point of Plaka village. Though little of the original castle remains (the only evidence of Venetian presence on Milos), the hike up is pleasant and visitors are rewarded with stunning views. Coming at Golden Hour is especially pleasant.
The view from Plaka's castle
Looking out in the opposite direction
7. Take a geology-focused tour
Milos’ incredibly varied beaches and rock formations should clue you in that the island is very rich in geological terms. To better understand this interesting geological makeup and all the unique terrain you'll be seeing, take a geology tour! While "geology tour” might make you think of a not-so-interesting class you took in high school, I assure you that this is a cool experience!
Beginning from the town of Pollonia, you'll visit the Mining Museum, salt pants, a crater, sulfur mines, and Aggeria mines and mineral factory. It's a very interesting way to spend a morning or afternoon.
If you're interested, this 3-hour tour is a good option.
An abandoned sulfur mine. Photo: Zde, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
8. Enjoy laid-back nightlife
Milos is not as quiet as islands like Sifnos or Amorgos, but it’s also far from a party island. The result is an island with genuinely really pleasant nightlife - you can always find somewhere to get a drink and there will usually be people out and about, but the hectic and chaotic scenes, noise, and disruption of places like Mykonos and Ios are nowhere to be found.
The majority of restaurants, pubs, and clubs are situated in Adamantas, but you also have some options in Pollonia and other nearby towns.
A view over Adamantas at sunset
9. Hit the beach
With some of the best beaches in Greece, you'd be crazy if your plan didn't include at least a few hours of beach lounging every day. You have no shortage of choices here, and I've selected my 5 favorite in the section below. For even more ideas, have a look at this page on Discover Greece - it has a nice interactive map and a longer list.
Myrsini bay
Best beaches
1. Sarakiniko
The moonscape of Milos, as Sarakiniko is often referred to, is more than just a beach; it is a lunar landscape that is unique on earth. Beautiful, smooth, strikingly white rocks with lots of horizontal stratification contrast with crystal-clear turquoise waters, and impressive natural caves to form one Greece’s most stunning beaches.
The beach’s name derives from the Saracen pirates who used its caves as a sanctuary. Other pirate populations, such the Cilicians, Ottomans, and Barbary pirates, have also used this coast.
Here, you can cliff-jump into the sea or access the small section of sandy beach. There are many underground/underwater tunnels to visit but make sure you have a flashlight with you.
When visiting, keep in mind that Sarakiniko is a completely virgin landscape with no sun beds, umbrellas or beach bars, so you’ll need to take all your beach essentials with you. If you stay until sunset, the views are amazing as the red and orange hues fall onto the white rocks.
Cliff jumping into the water at Sarakiniko
The actual beach at Sarakiniko
2. Tsigrado
Tsigrado beach lies on Milos’ southern coast. The sandy beach is remote and the only way to get there by land is fairly difficult and ever so slightly dangerous. On foot, you have to descend a steep ladder that runs down a cliff. There’s a rope to give you some support, but that’s it.
Fortunately, the beach is also easily reached by sea, and many boat tours and taxis go to Tsigrado every day.
No photo for this one, sorry!
3. Firopotamos
Firopotamos beach blends local fishing traditions with its unique natural beauty. The town around the beach is a historic fishing village that later became a summer vacation spot for residents of Plaka. Now, the long beach and breathtaking blue-green waters are also a favorite of visitors.
The beach is a mix of sand and small pebbles, and it is surrounded by tall trees, providing welcome shade in the hotter months. There’s a beach bar here, with a few sun beds and umbrellas, but it’s still mostly an unorganized beach without huge crowds.
Firopotamos beach. Photo: Manfred Werner (Tsui), CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Papafragas
Papafragas is a rock beach - not so much a beach really as curious sculpted rocks surrounded by water - that is one of Milos’ most arresting sites. From atop the rocks, the beach below resembles an enormous natural swimming pool, with a massive cave cut out of the cliff's side. A narrow path leads to the beach's small, sandy strip.
The water is crystal-clear with interchanging colors depending on the weather. The surrounding cave structures and sea caves are great for snorkeling.
Papafragas "beach". Photo: rene boulay, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Nicolas Hadjidimitriou, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
5. Plathiena
Close to Plaka, I like Plathiena as a break from some of the more "difficult” beaches on the island. The beach is semi-sheltered from the elements, meaning the water is typically calm. You have sun beds, umbrellas, etc. for rent and there's a restaurant/bar by the beach so you can get something to eat. It's also large, sop it's a nice place to lounge at for a few hours.
Plathiena beach
Where to stay
The best place to stay in Milos island is either Adamantas, which is centrally located on the island and close to many restaurants and bars, or Pollonia, which offers a more upscale feel.
You won’t find major hotel chains or all-inclusive resorts in Milos. Instead, most of the accommodation options here are boutique hotels, guesthouses, and cute apartments, many of them family-run.
A unique way to experience Milos a bit like a local is to stay in one of a number of converted fishing houses.
Milos has become very popular with well-heeled travelers in recent years, so summer rates for hotels can now be quite expensive. Also note that many hotels, including various of the ones below, may require minimum stays of 3 nights throughout the summer.
Prices below are for the summer. Spring and fall prices can be significantly less.
Hotels in Adamantas
Cave Suites Milos - $400 per night
Boho Sapiens - $250+ per night
Santa Maria Village - $200+ per night
Capetan Giorgantas - $175 per night
Hotels in Pollonia
Melian Boutique Hotel & Spa - $500 per night
White Pebble Suites - $400 per night
Milos Breeze - $400 per night
Captain Zeppos - $350+ per night
When to visit
The best time to visit Milos is in late spring (May and early June) or mid Autumn (the second half of September through October). During both periods you’ll have good weather warm enough for swimming, everything on the island is open, and you’ll get much better prices for everything from ferry tickets to hotels than during the peak summer season. You also won’t encounter any of the summer crowds.
July and August are the peak season and even though Milos doesn’t get as busy as island like Mykonos or Santorini, it can still get very crowded and prices tend to skyrocket.
Restaurants and dining
There are countless good eateries, bars, and beach clubs all over Milos, so no matter where you are you’ll always have at least a few good options. To help you out with some ideas, here are a few of our favorites.
Aragosta
Aragosta is a lovely bar/restaurant in Adamantas with an ideal beach-front location. The service is friendly, the views over the harbor excellent, and the food - Greek with foreign influences - is very good. Their cocktails are great too!
Astakas restaurant
Right in front of the sea and next to the colorful Syrmata fishermen houses in Klima, location in Klima, close to the multicolored syrmata, the infamous fishermen's houses, Astakas takes seafood platters to a whole new level. They also make excellent breakfasts.
Gialos restaurant
Gialos is a classic Greek taverna located on Pollonia's waterfront. The restaurant is run by a youthful crew that has successfully created a location with authentic Greek identity.
Akrotiri seafood obsession
Akrotiri Seafood Obsession is located in Pollonia and sits on the water (like everywhere else on this list!). Unlike everywhere else, however, all the ingredients used in the dishes here are sourced locally, focusing on quality and authenticity.
Mouratos bakery
In Katifora, this little family-run business has been offering delicious baked items for the past 30 years. They have a big range of high-quality items, many of which are inspired by regional cuisines. Delicious pastries, sandwiches, breakfast omelets, and a variety of coffees are served daily.
Akri bar
Akri is one of Milos' best bars, housed in a whitewashed, typical Cycladic building with blue doors and traditional patterns. Akri overlooks the port of Adamas and is a great spot to unwind and relax over a good drink.
They have a large selection of cocktails and a spectacular stone-paved veranda that is perfect for enjoying a night out under the stars.
Deep blue beach bar
Deep Blue Beach Bar is situated in Palaiochori, one of the island’s most uniquely beautiful beaches. It’s a cool and calm beach bar that’s perfect for lounging and enjoying ocean views while you sip a coffee or drink.
Plori club
Youthful and busy, this bar offers great views and a slightly more “energetic” vibe if you’re looking for a less quiet night out.
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