Where to Stay in Athens - A Local’s Guide for First-Time Visitors
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Athens is a place like no other in Europe. One of the cradles of Western Civilization, it’s also now a modern, European capital. In few other places on earth will you find antiquity and modernity coexisting side by side (and sometimes on top of each other!) in such a swarm of glorious urban chaos.
In Athens, in just the space of a few minutes you can go from strolling the 2,000+ year old Parthenon to enjoying inventive, modern Greek fare in Psirri’s hip eateries.
And where else on earth can you explore the Temple of Zeus in the morning and still beat the afternoon heat by relaxing on a gorgeous beach not even 30 minutes away by metro?
Modern Athens is a city of neighborhoods, each with its own distinct character and vibe. Choosing the right area for your travel style can make or break your visit.
So, to help you decide where to stay, I’ve put together a comprehensive guide to Athens’ many districts, along with some good hotel recommendations in each of them.
Let’s take a look!
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Table of contents
Overview of Athens layout and its neighborhoods
My 7 recommended neighborhoods
Monastiraki/Plaka/Thissio
Koukaki & Petralona
Pangrati & Mets
Kolonaki
Exarcheia
Piraeus
Kypseli
Neighborhoods to avoid
Overview of Athens layout and neighborhoods
Before I get into all the different areas, it’s important to note that if you have just a couple of days in the city, you really do want to stay central.
For visitors with only 1-3 nights in Athens, it’s generally advisable to stay in the historical center or right next to it. Somewhere like Plaka, Monastiraki, or Koukaki are ideal. If you’ll be staying for 3 days or more, your options expand.
For those with more time in Athens, repeat visitors, or travelers who want to stay somewhere less touristy, you could look further afield at any the following neighborhoods: Koukaki, Petralona, Pangrati/Mets, Kypseli, Kolonaki, Exarcheia, or Piraeus.
Each of these neighborhoods has strikingly different vibes, so I’ve broken them down below with more information on their attractions and appeal.
Unlike some cities that have a well-defined city center and then quiet neighborhoods ringing them, in Athens almost every district has its own center. This might be just one square or a number of streets with cafes, shops, and restaurants. Each area has its own unique character and attracts different Athenians and visitors.
You have working class districts, distinct immigrant areas, hipster neighborhoods, quiet residential areas, upscale enclaves, and a few sections of the city that almost entirely cater to tourists.
Most of Athens’ residential areas can be a little boring for visitors, though you’ll get to see a slice of authentic Greek life in them. The upscale enclaves, while elegant and pleasant to wander, are often poorly connected by public transport. Some working class and immigrant neighborhoods can have a slightly seedy feel at times, but they are also vibrant communities.
The tourist areas are convenient if you only have a few days in the city and want to maximize your sightseeing, but they’re of course the least authentic and most overpriced. The hipster areas can be a lot of fun, but they lean towards a younger crowd and will often be very busy and loud at night.
Like anywhere, choosing the perfect neighborhood for you is a balancing act.
My 7 recommended neighborhoods
As I mentioned above, it really does make sense to stay central, especially if this is your first visit. Athens’ core is jam-packed with incredible sights, and you’re likely going to spend the vast majority of your time visiting them, so you’ll want to be somewhere close by to minimize time spent traveling back and forth from your hotel each day.
Athens does have pretty good public transportation though (buses and a subway), so if you’d prefer to get away from the tourist crowds that pack the absolute city center, it’s no issue at all to move a bit further out into some of the more residential neighborhoods.
These areas are often a fair deal less expensive, have better and more authentic restaurants, and a much more local atmosphere.
With all of the above in mind, I think there are 7 or so neighborhoods that are ideal for a first visit (but really they make the most sense for the vast majority of returning visitors as well). Below is a quick introduction to each of them:
1. Monastiraki, Plaka, and Thissio
These 3 neighborhoods are the absolute center of the city and staying in any of them puts you squarely next to all the main historical sights. Of course, that also means that they’re very touristy, so be prepared for that if you choose to stay here.
2. Koukaki & Petralona
Artsy and bohemian, these are two very fun neighborhoods with a more youthful and local atmosphere. They’ve started to become popular with visitors in recent years, but still offer a great glimpse of local life. Both are just south of the historic center and are within easy walking distance of it.
3. Pangrati & Mets
Distinctly local despite being right next to Plaka & Monastiraki, these are two pleasant residential neighborhoods filled with squares, a great park, and lots of cultural institutions.
Either of these is a great choice if you want to be very central but without the tourist crowds of places like Monastiraki, Plaka, or Thissio.
4. Kolonaki
Greener and more serene than most other parts of the city, this is a wealthy neighborhood a bit removed from the center and right at the foot of Lycabettus Hill (which offers great views).
This is one of the nicest area of Athens and high-end shops, boutiques, spas, and excellent restaurants are all over the place. It’s upscale but local, and I think it makes for an excellent base.
5. Exarcheia
Cool Exarchia is the traditional alternative/student/intellectual quarter, and while not historic or especially pretty, it’s filled with cultural institutions, bookstores, interesting shops, and a wide array of international restaurants and nice cafes.
It’s especially popular with young people and despite it’s somewhat “edgy” reputation, has a very cosmopolitan and international atmosphere. You’ll probably hear a fair deal of English spoken here, but mostly by foreigners living in Athens rather than tourists.
6. Piraeus
The Port of Athens and technically a separate city, Piraeus is far to the south of the historic center but can be easily and quickly reached via the metro line that seamlessly connects the two areas.
This isn’t a typical choice for where to stay when visiting Athens, but it can be a good base if you’re planning to do a few day trips out to the nearby islands. It’s also well connected to the beaches in the area, and is less busy than other parts of Athens.
7. Kypseli
If you’re after a glimpse of international and ethnically diverse Greece, Kypseli, a hub for immigrants, is the place for you. This area is the most diverse in the city and between the recent arrivals from overseas and the young families moving here (housing is much more affordable than in other areas), it really is a melting pot.
See below for more detailed overviews of each of these neighborhoods
Monastiraki, Plaka, Syntagma Square, & Thissio
These 4 neighborhoods together make up Athens’ historic core. They’re all central and offer easy walking access to all the main sights. This is Athens at its most touristy, so don’t expect it to feel authentic. You’ll be surrounded by crowds, but if you have limited time, you at least won’t lose precious hours in transport.
Each neighborhood has a different vibe though, so while I’ve listed them together, they’re not actually very similar.
Of the bunch, Syntagma is the most generic with a modern and bustling downtown feel. You’ll find lots of Foot Lockers, Adidas stores, and other generic brand name stores.
While it’s not very atmospheric, it’s extremely central, very lively, and well connected to the rest of the city. Wherever you are in the neighborhood, you’ll be just steps from Syntagma square and a plethora of Athens’ main sights.
Monastiraki and Plaka retain more of their historic character and exude old word charm. Their marble-paved streets are lined with traditional eateries, cafes, boutique, and also more than a few souvenir stores.
It’s incredibly touristy, but very pleasant to wander and has a distinctly Greek atmosphere.
Thissio, while not a hidden gem by any means, sits adjacent to both of these neighborhoods and still manages to keep some of its local flavor, especially as you get a bit further out.
It’s filled with hip restaurants, coffee shops, and cute bars and boutiques. It’s situated at the bottom of the Hill of the Muses and Philopappos Hill, famed for its Parthenon views.
Things to see & do in the neighborhood:
Acropolis, Ancient Agora, Roman Agora, Monastiraki Square and Flea Market, Temple of Zeus Olympus, Adrian´s Gate, Parliament, National Garden, Syntagma Square.
Restaurant recommendations:
Attalos Restaurant - Touristy, but with fair prices and authentic food.
Café Avissinia - Rooftop dining with Acropolis view.
TAF (the art foundation) cafe - Good eats with a little art & culture.
To Kafeneio - Mezedes/small plates.
Taverna Saita - Traditional Greek taverna with great food and lovely outdoor setting.
Where to stay
Airotel Parthenon - A centrally-located, old school 4-star hotel ($200).
Innathens - Modern 3-star ideal for families ($150).
Plaka Hotel - A solid, centrally-located 3-star hotel ($125 per night).
Be My Guest Hotel - Simple, but comfortable hotel in a convenient location ($125).
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Koukaki & Petralona
The Koukaki neighborhood and Acropolis seen from Philopappos hill. Photo: George E. Koronaios, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
With bohemian vibes and a mix of local hipsters, young families, and tourists, either of Koukaki or Petralona make a good choice for travelers who want to be in the middle of it all with lots of options for dining, laidback nightlife, and shopping.
Located at the foot of the Acropolis and Philoppapus hill, both Koukaki and Petralona were, before the touristic boom of the last decade, quiet residential areas that had avoided the congestion of neighboring districts. Today, they are at a crossroads between the ever-increasing flow of tourists and local residents.
While Koukaki’s working class roots have been almost entirely erased, both areas still offer many tranquil corners and squares that give visitors a window into authentic daily life.
Things to see & do in the neighborhood:
Merkouri Square, explore Troon Street all the way from Koukaki to Petralona, National Observatory of Athens, National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST), relax on pedestrianized Georg. Olimpiou Street, Drakou Street, and Veikou Street.
Restaurant recommendations:
Skoubri - A perennially good choice for fresh seafood.
Lotte Cafe Bistrot - Great for quick eats, snacks, cake and sweet treats, and coffee & cocktails.
Takis Bakery - Local favorite for bread and baked goods.
Bel Ray - A cheerful and hip option for breakfast, brunch, light lunches, and drinks in the evening.
Oikonomou Restaurant - Coming up on their 100-year anniversary, Oikonomou is always a winner for well-done traditional Greek food.
Aschimopapo - An unpretentious taverna and grill with a lovely garden.
Ranteboú - Tasty small plates.
Where to stay
Herodion Hotel - High 4-star with Acropolis views tucked just behind the Acropolis Museum ($200-250).
Acropolis Hill Hotel - A pleasant, modern 3-star in Koukaki ($150).
Athens Studios - Self-catering studios, bedrooms, and apartments in a great location ($130).
Pangrati & Mets
Pangrati and Mets are two pleasant middle class neighborhoods whose proximity to the historic center as well as many museums, theaters, and music venues make them excellent choices for travelers interested in art and culture. They’re also oases of calm in the city, so a nice pick for families with kids.
Pangrati and Mets, much like Koukaki, Petralona, Exarcheia, have succumbed to varying degrees of gentrification in recent years. That said, they’re still local neighborhoods and are very pleasant for travelers who want to be fairly central with access to lots of amenities, but without being in an area overrun by tourists.
Though adjacent to Plaka and Monastiraki, and only a stone’s throw away from major sites, these two neighborhoods have avoided tourism-centered development because they’re separated from the center by a major thoroughfare (Leof. Vasieleos Konstatinou) and the National Garden. Hidden within them, you’ll discover loads of pleasant corners, small squares, and small pedestrian streets.
Things to see & do in the neighborhood:
Goulandris Foundation, National Gallery, Megaron Mousikis music venue, theater shows, Kallimarmaro/Panathenaic Stadium, Friday farmers market on Archimidous Street, First Cemetery of Athens (lovely space and some gravestones are works of art), Lexikopoleio Bookshop.
Restaurant recommendations:
Chelsea Hotel - Hip café and bar perfect for mingling with locals and making new friends.
Mavros Gatos - Traditional grill & taverna.
Spondi Restaurant - Michelin-starred eats!
Where to stay
Airbnb or VRBO
Kolonaki
Dexameni Square in the Kolonaki neighborhood. Photo: George E. Koronaios, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
One of Athens’ most upscale neighborhoods, Kolonaki is a solid choice for wealthy travelers who want to mingle with Athens’ socialites and upper classes. While not historic, the neighborhood boasts many pedestrianized streets, leafy squares, and elegant mansions, many now housing museums and embassies.
Its countless high-end boutiques, interior design stores, and hip art galleries provide unlimited shopping and entertainment.
You’ll also find loads of options for fine dining and plenty of mixologist-inspired cocktail bars to quench your thirst. Just to the south, you’ll find some of Athens’ most famous museums including the Museum of Cycladic Art, the Byzantine and Christian Museum, the Athens War Museum, and the National Gallery.
For one of the city’s best views, particularly at sunset, Lycabettus Hill is a quick stroll away.
Things to see & do in the neighborhood:
Mt. Lykavittos (Lycabettus), Kolonaki Square, Dexameni Square & its beloved open air cafe and open air cinema, remains of the Roman Aqueduct.
Restaurant recommendations:
Dexameni Café - Coffee and snacks ( )
Kalamaki Kolonaki - High quality Greek fast food
Oikeio - Cozy taverna with cool interior and shaded outdoor seating.
Fresh Patisserie - Great baked goods.
Carpo - Little shop selling coffee, chocolate and nuts.
Where to stay
COCO-MAT Hotel - Upmarket 4-star digs in a stylish building located in the heart of trendy Kolonaki ($200-250).
Exarcheia
A street on a quiet morning in Exarcheia. Photo: Stolbovsky, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
A rapidly gentrifying area that is still popular with alternative people, students, artists, intellectuals, and political activists. Adjacent to posh Kolonaki, Exarcheia could hardly be more different. If Exarcheia sounds like your type of place, note that you probably won’t like Kolonaki (or vice-versa).
Exarcheia is pretty short on traditional sites, but it’s a cultural powerhouse. Filled with pop-up art galleries, buzzing restaurants, and more concerts and live music than anywhere else in the city, those who consider themselves “anti-checklist” travelers may just consider it paradise.
It’s a genuinely interesting neighborhood filled with locally-owned small businesses and artist studios which are great for browsing. Its pedestrianized streets and inventive eateries are full of young people and it’s a great place in which to casually hang out for a day.
In the end though, it seems gentrification comes for us all and modern day Exarcheia at times can feel like a neighborhood on the edge of becoming a caricature. Its vegan eateries, activist bookstores, political street art, dive bars, and punk rock venues are certainly real, but they’re now competing for real estate with condominiums, expensive health food stores, avocado toast brunch spots, and speakeasies.
These urban symbols of gentrification and hipsterdom more commonly associated with places like New York’s Bushwick, London’s Shoreditch, and Berlin’s Kreuzberg are now firmly here too.
Things to see & do in the neighborhood:
National Archaeological Museum, Pedion Areos park, Streffi Hill, live music bars, cafes, people watching.
Restaurant recommendations:
Ama Lachei - No longer a secret, but still a lovely place with great small plates and warm service.
Rosalia - A city and neighborhood institution; a great place to taste traditional, daily meals.
Where to stay
Colors Hotel - Modern, urban hotel with casual 4-star service ($150).
Orion Hotel - A small and simple hotel, well-rooted in Exarcheia ($100).
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Piraeus
The marina and esplanade in Piraeus. Photo: G Da, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Technically a separate city from Athens, you wouldn’t know that when visiting. It’s appeal lies in it’s proximity to the water and convenient ferry access for both day trips to the Saronic island and further journeys to the Cyclades and beyond.
It’s also well serviced by public transport, giving you access to Athens’ beaches and historic center in just a few minutes.
Piraeus’ function as a historic port for trade and point of entry for visitors and immigrants to Athens means that it has long been a place at the crossroads of civilizations.
While physically indistinguishable from the Athens city limits, it has a unique feel and is less chaotic than the metropolis just a few kms inland.
Things to see & do in the neighborhood:
Athenian Riviera, Pasalimani bay, Mikrolimano marina and promenade, Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, Archaeological Museum of Piraeus, Hellenic Maritime Museum, Piraeus Municipal Theater.
Restaurant recommendations:
To Steki Tou Artemis - A traditional taverna that’s popular with locals and often has live music.
Psaroskala Piraikis - A great fish taverna on the Piraeus Seafront
The Grandmother Elizabeth/Η Γιαγιά Ελισάβετ - A staple for simple, yet delicious fare at very reasonable prices next to the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center.
Flisvos marina - With too many options to choose a favorite, the marina is a good choice for more upscale restaurants (in Palaio Faliro).
Where to stay
The Alex - A modern, boutique hotel from which to experience vibrant Piraeus and Athens ($150).
Triton Hotel - Solid 3-star hotel next to the port and the ferry gates for the Cyclades ($75).
Kypseli
Aghios Georgios Square in the Kypseli neighborhood. Photo: C messier, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
A vibrant area that was once an intellectual and artistic hub before becoming a melting pot of peoples as immigrants from Africa, the Middle East, and South Asia moved in, Kypseli is yet again evolving as more and more middle class families and young professionals move to the area.
This is probably not a great choice for first time visitors as the neighborhood is hardly Greek in character and it doesn’t have many obvious points of interest.
However, if you’re returning to Athens for a second or third visit, you’ll find terrific (and varied) dining options at excellent prices, cheap accommodation, and vibrant culture. You’ll also get a new perspective on diverse and multi-cultural Athens and Greece.
Things to see & do in the neighborhood:
Stroll the pedestrian avenues of Fokionos Negri and Agia Zonis, people watch and enjoy Athens coffee culture in Agios Georgiou Square, relax in Pedio tou Areos Park, Sunday pop ups and farmers market at Kypseli Municipal Market,
Restaurant recommendations:
Dyonisos - A traditional spot for souvlaki, gyros, and daily-prepared fresh meals with seating right on Agios Giorgos Square.
Bakalogatos - A small, but good taverna & grill on Fokionos Negri street.
O Platanos - A favorite restaurant of locals and families with a very nice garden.
Where to stay
Victory Inn - A simple, clean, convenient, and well-located 2-star hotel near to the Victoria metro station and Pedion Tou Areos Park ($60).
Neighborhoods of Athens to avoid
Athens is very safe and with a little common sense there’s really nowhere in the city that one would define as “off limits”. That said, one area of Athens that almost all visitors should plan on avoiding is the area around Omonia as well as the Attiki train station and around the Acharnon and Liossion stations.
These areas aren’t so much unsafe as they’re simply not very interesting. This part of Athens is among the poorest in the city and it’s very commercial and quite ugly.
You’re unlikely to encounter violent crime anywhere in Athens, these areas included, but at nighttime they can feel seedy and female travelers in particular may feel somewhat uncomfortable at any time of day. Having said that, if you’re on a very tight budget, Omonia and around is certainly one of the cheapest areas you can stay while still being within central Athens and well-connected on the metro.
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