Where to Stay in Athens - A Local’s Guide
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Athens is a place like no other in Europe. One of the cradles of Western Civilization, it’s also now a modern, European capital. In few other places on earth will you find antiquity and modernity coexisting side by side (and sometimes on top of each other!) in such a swarm of glorious urban chaos.
In Athens, in just the space of a few minutes you can go from strolling the 2,000+ year old Parthenon to enjoying inventive, modern Greek fare in Psirri’s hip eateries.
And where else on earth can you explore the Temple of Zeus in the morning and still beat the afternoon heat by relaxing on a gorgeous beach not even 30 minutes away by metro?
Modern Athens is a city of neighborhoods, and those in its central core all have their own distinct character and vibe, so which one is best for you will really just depend on the atmosphere that you’er after.
So, to help you decide where to stay, I’ve put together a comprehensive guide to my favorite city center neighborhoods, along with some good hotel recommendations in each of them.
Let’s take a look!
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Table of contents
Overview of Athens layout and its neighborhoods
My 6 recommended neighborhoods
1. Plaka/Monastiraki/Syntagma/Psiri
2. Thiseio
3. Koukaki
4. Petralona
5. Kolonaki
6. Exarcheia
Other neighborhoods to consider
Pangrati
Piraeus
Kypseli
Neighborhoods to avoid
Omonia
Overview of Athens layout and neighborhoods
Unlike many European capitals, which are built in a neatly organized grid and/or contained within a principal ring road that clearly delineates the city center, Athens is rather “disorganized”. The city, built around a series of hills, is a maze of winding, criss crossing streets, with its neighborhoods extending out somewhat haphazardly from the historic center (Plaka - beside the Acropolis).
And while the central areas are actually quite compact (you’ll rarely be more than a 30 minute walk to wherever you want to go), the rest of the city sort of sprawls out in all directions.
Partly owing to this somewhat disjointed development, very few neighborhoods are just residential, and they almost all have their own little centers, typically with a principal square and/or a couple of main streets lined with cafes, shops, and restaurants. This means that each area has its own unique character and everything you need right within it.
You have working class districts, distinct immigrant areas, hipster neighborhoods, quiet residential areas, upscale enclaves, and a few sections of the city that almost entirely cater to tourists.
However, while the atmosphere definitely changes from one neighborhood to the next, they all physically/aesthetically look rather identical (apart from Plaka, the historic part of town), with nondescript concrete apartment buildings lining the streets. I think it’s fair to say that while Athens is a really interesting place, it’s most definitely not a pretty city, so you don’t really need to consider what the neighborhood you choose to stay in looks like - the architecture will not wow you anywhere.
As for getting around, Athens has a good metro system with 3 different lines, as well as an extensive bus network. Tickets are affordable - rides cost a little over 1 euro - and you’ll typically be able to get just about everywhere you want to go within a 20-minute ride.
My 6 recommended neighborhoods
Before I get into the different areas, it’s important to note that if you have just a couple of days in the city, you really do want to stay central.
For visitors with only 1 or 2 nights here, it’s generally advisable to stay in the historic center or right next to it, as you just don’t have enough time to waste 20 or 30 minutes walking or taking the metro from your accommodation into the center each day (or multiple times each day).
Athens’ core is jam-packed with sights, and you’re likely going to spend the vast majority of your time visiting them, so it just makes sense to stay nearby.
With that in mind, I think the 6 central neighborhoods below are ideal for any visitor, whether this is your first visit or a return trip. While a few of these are very touristy areas (Monastiraki, Plaka, Syntagma, and Psyri especially), most of these areas are also the most desirable residential neighborhoods in the city, so they’re where Athenians live and want to live too.
They’ll all give you a chance to see local life, have a great selection of restaurants, and be close to everything you want to see and do.
Below is a quick introduction to each of them:
1. Monastiraki, Plaka, Syntagma, and Psiri
These 4 neighborhoods are the absolute center of the city, and they’re where you’ll find most of Athens’ historical sites, so they are extremely convenient for sightseeing. I’ve included them all together, because they’re essentially just one single area.
Although extremely touristy, they’re Athens’ 4 prettiest neighborhoods and are also fairly pedestrianized, meaning that you can mostly walk around without worrying about cars.
2. Thiseio
Thiseio is basically adjacent to the 4 neighborhoods above (it’s just below Psyrri/Psiri), and while it’s also right next to all of the historical sites, it’s much less intensely touristy. It’s another pretty area, especially its northern edge, and is a really good choice if you want to be conveniently located but with a slightly more neighborhood feel.
3. Koukaki
Koukaki sits just south of the historic center and runs along the eastern edge of Philopappos Hill (from where you have great views of the Acropolis). Also very central, it has become popular with tourists in recent years but still has a nice local and residential feel that is equal parts youthful, artsy, and bohemian.
4. Petralona
Petralona lies just on the other side of Philopappos Hill from Koukaki, and it has a pretty similar vibe. The upper portion of the neighborhood - Ano Petralona - is especially desirable for visitors, as it’s just a short walk from the city center and has tons of great restaurants and bars/cafes. It’s also fairly pretty, having preserved a decent chunk of its older buildings.
5. Kolonaki
Greener and more serene than most other parts of the city, this is a wealthy neighborhood just to northeast of the city center, clustered around the base of Lycabettus Hill (which offers great views from the summit). This is one of the nicest areas of Athens and high-end shops, boutiques, spas, and excellent restaurants are all around.
6. Exarcheia
Just on the northern border of the city center, Exarcheia is the traditional alternative/student/intellectual quarter, and while not historic or especially pretty, it’s filled with cultural institutions, bookstores, interesting shops, and a wide array of international restaurants and nice cafes. It’s especially popular with young people and despite its somewhat “edgy” reputation, has a very cosmopolitan and international atmosphere.
See below for more detailed overviews of each of these neighborhoods
1. Monastiraki, Plaka, Syntagma, & Psiri
Monastiraki Square
Pandrosou Street in Monastiraki
Outdoor dining in Plaka
Syntagma square
One of the (many) pedestrian streets branching off from Psiri Square
These 4 neighborhoods together form the absolute center of the city and make up Athens’ historic core. And while they’re technically each their own neighborhood, I’ve combined them all together because they’re very small and are right next to each other, often just a few streets apart. As a visitor, you wouldn’t really distinguish between them.
They’re all very central, super safe (although basically everywhere in Athens is safe), and offer easy walking access to the city’s main sights. And while much of Athens is characterized by kind of ugly concrete apartment buildings, these neighborhoods have preserved a lot of their traditional architecture, so they are actually pretty, making exploring them very pleasant.
They’re also heavily pedestrianized, and it’s really nice to be able to stroll around aimlessly, admiring the architecture and archaeological sights without having to worry about cars.
Of course, this is Athens at its most touristy, so just don’t expect it to feel authentic. These are touristic rather than residential areas, so you’ll be surrounded by crowds of visitors and will see lots of the typical tourist-focused shops and restaurants. I know that’s not everyone’s cup of tea (me included), but if you have limited time in Athens and are trying to pack as much sightseeing as possible into a day or two, these are extremely convenient areas to stay.
As I said above, while I don’t really think it’s worth differentiating between each of these areas, I will just quickly point out a couple of distinctions:
Monastiraki and Plaka are extremely historic and have lots of cobbled streets and lovely old architecture. This is where you’ll find most of Athens’ ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine sights/monuments. Both neighborhoods are basically exclusively for tourists, but they’re really atmospheric.
Syntagma is a commercial hub, and its eponymous square is the main one in the city. This is where the country’s parliament building is and its also where you’ll see the hourly changing of the guard beneath the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Its central thoroughfare, Ermou Street, is a principal shopping street in the city, as is Mitropoleos, just beneath it.
Psiri used to be a very working class area, but in recent years it has become quite popular with younger Athenians (especially artists/artisans), and is now very hip. A historic neighborhood, there are lots of pretty neoclassical buildings and you’ll find a mix of stores, galleries, and workshops, along with tons of eateries and bars. It has a maze of tree-lined pedestrianized streets, many with colorful string lights hung overhead. It’s also a hub for nighlife.
Where to stay
Airotel Parthenon - A centrally-located, old school 4-star hotel ($200).
Innathens - Modern 3-star ideal for families ($150).
Plaka Hotel - A solid, centrally-located 3-star hotel ($125 per night).
Be My Guest Hotel - Simple, but comfortable hotel in a convenient location ($125).
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2. Thiseio
A pedestrianized street in Thiseio. Photo: Dimorsitanos, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A stretch of Iraklidon street in Thiseio.
Evening views from Pnyx Hill.
Thiseio is also right in the heart of Athens’ historic center and I could have easily included it with the other 4 neighborhoods mentioned above. It’s another busy, historic area with lots of pretty architecture, pedestrianized streets, and a host of cafes and restaurants.
However, I’ve chosen to group Thiseio apart from places like Monastiraki and Plaka because it’s much less touristy. Of course, the areas right next to the historic center still see tons of tourists, but as you head just a little bit away from there (west or south), the neighborhood becomes much more residential, offering a better balance between local and touristy.
It has some lovely pedestrianized streets/paths, especially Apostolou Pavlou and Iraklidon (lots of restaurants and shops - some quite touristy though), and the views from the adjacent hills of Pnyx and Philopappos are exceptional. Troon street, another pedestrianized walkway, is a lovely stretch to wander along, and begins to fill with restaurants, bars, and cafes as you head south along it into Petralona.
Just a couple of minutes’ walk to the west/northwest of Thiseio are the neighborhoods of Gazi and Kerameikos, which are both becoming super hip, with some neat cultural offerings, tons of very cool bars, and a big club scene (nightlife there extends until well into the early morning).
Where to stay
3. Koukaki
The Koukaki neighborhood and Acropolis seen from Philopappos hill. Photo: George E. Koronaios, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Outdoor dining along Georg. Olimpiou Street in Koukaki.
With bohemian vibes and a mix of local hipsters, young families, and tourists, Koukaki makes an excellent choice for travelers who want to be centrally located but not in a strictly tourist area, and have lots of options for dining, laidback nightlife, and shopping right at their doorstep.
Located at the foot of the Acropolis and Philoppapus hill, Koukaki has changed rapidly due to its recent tourist boom, and it’s now at a bit of a crossroads between the ever-increasing flow of tourists and local residents. Even so, it definitely still feels (and is) mostly local, and staying here will give you a nice window into authentic daily life.
The streets that run north-south directly off from the Acropolis Museum at the northern edge of the neighborhood (Veikou, Dimitrakopoulou, Falirou) are initially very touristy, with lots of mediocre places geared toward visitors, but they fade out rather quickly.
Further south, the pedestrianized streets of Drakou and Georg. Olimpiou are absolutely filled with fun places to eat and drink, and they all have abundant outdoor seating, which creates a really fun, communal, and party-ish atmosphere. They’re quiet during the day, but explode into life in the evenings. You’ll find tons of young Athenians meeting up there to eat, drink, and chat the night away.
And when you want a dose of culture, just cross over Leof. Andrea Siggrou street and make your way to the National Museum of Contemporary Art (ESMT), which will show off a very much more modern side to Athens than the city’s other museums.
Where to stay
Herodion Hotel - High 4-star with Acropolis views tucked just behind the Acropolis Museum ($200-250).
Acropolis Hill Hotel - A pleasant, modern 3-star in Koukaki ($150).
Athens Studios - Self-catering studios, bedrooms, and apartments in a great location ($130).
4. Petralona
As I mentioned above, Petralona is quite similar to Koukaki in a lot of ways, and is sort of a mirror image, just on the opposite side of Philopappos Hill. The neighborhood has much of the same appeal as it’s also close to the city center but removed enough to be far less touristy, has a residential feel but with a very hip and local vibe, and is filled with trendy restaurants, bars, and cafes.
It has gentrified rapidly in recent years and has become very desirable, especially for 30 or 40-something year olds, but it used to be a distinctly working class area, and parts of it still are. This divide is clearly marked by the metro line, with the eastern half - Ano Petralona - (which runs along Philopappos/Pnyx hill) being trendier, whereas the western side (Kato Petralona) is a little more alternative and marginally less wealthy.
In Ano Petralona, Merkouri Square is a pleasant area surrounded by bars and eateries, and the streets running off the square are all very pleasant (especially Troon street, which becomes pedestrianized a bit to the north). There’s also an open-air cinema here, Zéphyros, which is a great place to catch a movie at during the warmer times of year.
As with Koukaki, it’s pretty quiet during the day, but really livens up in the evenings.
Where to stay
5. Kolonaki
Dexameni Square in Kolonaki. Photo: George E. Koronaios, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Luxury shops on Voukourestiou street. Photo: Jean Housen, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A stairway in Kolonaki leading up to Lycabettus Hill
One of Athens’ most upscale neighborhoods, Kolonaki is a solid choice for travelers who want to mingle with Athens’ socialites and upper classes. While not historic, the neighborhood boasts many tree-lined and pedestrianized streets, leafy squares, and elegant mansions (many now housing excellent museums and embassies). Outside of the historic center, this is without question the most pleasant part of the city to go for a wander.
Its countless high-end boutiques, interior design stores, and art galleries provide unlimited shopping and entertainment. And while you’ll find some of the traditional global luxury brands (especially along Voukourestiou street), most of the shops are independent, so they have lots of quality, made-in-Europe items from smaller, local brands, which is quite fun. You can find some lovely stuff here.
There are also loads of options for fine dining, some great cafes with pleasant outdoor seating, and plenty of mixologist-inspired cocktail bars to quench your thirst. Kolonakiou Square, with its many cafes is a great spot to hang out for a while, as are the clutch of little pedestrianized streets that you’ll find at random while you wander around.
Just to the south of the neighborhood are some of Athens’ most famous museums including the Museum of Cycladic Art, the Byzantine Museum, the Benaki Museum, the Athens War Museum, and the National Gallery. If you’re on a culture-focused trip, this is a great base from which to museum hop.
For one of the city’s best views, particularly at sunset, Lycabettus Hill is a quick stroll away (up, up, and up). If you don’t want to go all the way to the top, you can get an almost equally good vantage point from Prasini Tenta Cafe. And when you want some peaceful greenery, Rizari Park is right nearby, as is the National Garden.
Where to stay
COCO-MAT Hotel - Upmarket 4-star digs in a stylish building located in the heart of trendy Kolonaki ($200-250).
6. Exarcheia
A street on a quiet morning in Exarcheia. Photo: Stolbovsky, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
Outdoor dining along pedestrianized Koletti Street in Exarcheia.
A waterside walkway in Pedion tou Aeros park at dusk
A rapidly gentrifying area that is still popular with alternative people, students, artists, intellectuals, and political activists. Adjacent to posh Kolonaki, Exarcheia could hardly be more different. If Exarcheia sounds like your type of place, note that you probably won’t like Kolonaki (or vice-versa).
Exarcheia is pretty short on traditional sites, but it’s a cultural powerhouse. Filled with pop-up art galleries, buzzing restaurants, and more concerts and live music than anywhere else in the city, those who consider themselves “anti-checklist” travelers may just consider it paradise.
It’s a genuinely interesting neighborhood filled with locally-owned small businesses and artist studios which are great for browsing. Its pedestrianized streets and inventive eateries are full of young people and it’s a great place in which to casually hang out for a day.
In the end though, it seems gentrification comes for us all and modern day Exarcheia at times can feel like a neighborhood on the edge of becoming a caricature. Its vegan eateries, activist bookstores, political street art, dive bars, and punk rock venues are certainly real, but they’re now competing for real estate with condominiums, expensive health food stores, avocado toast brunch spots, and speakeasies.
These urban symbols of gentrification and hipsterdom more commonly associated with places like New York’s Bushwick, London’s Shoreditch, and Berlin’s Kreuzberg are now firmly here too. Even so, Exarcheia is a very fun and interesting area that makes for a great somewhat alternative choice to the others mentioned throughout this guide.
Catch a flick at the open-air Cinema Riviera, browse the shops along Ippokratous Street, stroll through and climb up Streffi Hill for some greenery, visit the impressive Archaeological Museum, and while away the day at the cafes and bars along Themistokleous street and the pedestrianized ones intersecting it.
And for a tranquil escape, make your way over to the impressively large Pedion tou Areos Park and spend an hour or two wandering through its genuinely gorgeous and manicured grounds. It’s especially lovely at dusk, when the lights start to turn on and give off a warm glow.
Where to stay
Colors Hotel - Modern, urban hotel with casual 4-star service ($150).
Orion Hotel - A small and simple hotel, well-rooted in Exarcheia ($100).
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Other neighborhoods to consider: Pangrati, Piraeus, & Kypseli
While the 6 neighborhoods above are the ones that I’d unequivocally suggest staying in (especially if this is your first visit and you’ll only be in the city briefly), the following 3 are perfectly reasonable choices as well, and they’ll be more affordable than all of the more central neighborhoods already mentioned.
Pangrati is actually quite central, so is still fairly convenient for sightseeing, although you’ll have to frequently cross a couple of major roads to get in and out of the neighborhood, and will be dealing with some pretty significant hills.
Kypseli is a bit farther out but is well connected by the metro, while Piraeus is the farthest away but also has convenient metro access to the city center. It also has the added benefit of being by the sea. Both it and Kypseli will have the most accommodation options of anywhere I’ve described in this guide.
Here’s a quick overview of each of the 3 neighborhoods:
Pangrati
Eratosthenous steet, near Varnava Square
Palm-lined Empedokleous street
Pangrati is a pleasant middle class neighborhood whose proximity to the historic center as well as many museums, theaters, and music venues make it an excellent choice for travelers interested in art and culture. It’s also an oasis of calm in the city, so a nice pick for families with kids.
Pangrati, much like Koukaki, Petralona, and Exarcheia, has succumbed to varying degrees of gentrification in recent years, but it’s still a local neighborhood and is very pleasant for travelers who want to be fairly central with access to lots of amenities, but without being overrun by tourists (the vibe here is much more local - and increasingly young and hip).
Though adjacent to Plaka and Monastiraki and only a stone’s throw away from major sites, Pangrati has avoided tourism-centered development because it’s separated from the center by a major thoroughfare - Leof. Vasieleos Konstatinou street. It also lies on the eastern border of the National Garden (a huge and beautiful park), which acts as another buffer from the crowds of the city center and is also a lovely, leafy and green place to go for a stroll.
Varnava Square is one of the neighborhood’s central spots, and it’s ringed by an absurd number of places to eat and drink (with many international options - especially Italian, for whatever reason). The busy streets running off from it offer even more options, and the palm-tree lined Empedokleous Street will take you straight to the Panathenaic Stadium. Not far away, Pangrati Grove park is a pleasant spot to hang out and enjoy some greenery.
The neighborhood is extremely hilly, which means you’ll have lots of nice views, but you also need to be prepared to do some serious climbing at times, including up steep flights of stairs.
Where to stay
Airbnb or VRBO
Piraeus
The marina and esplanade in Piraeus. Photo: G Da, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
While Piraeus is technically a separate city from Athens, you wouldn’t know that when visiting. Its potential appeal lies in its affordability and its proximity to the sea and the convenient ferry access it provides for both day trips to the Saronic islands and further journeys to the Cyclades and beyond.
It’s also well serviced by public transport (the metro and bus), giving you access to Athens’ beaches and historic center in as little as 20 minutes.
While physically indistinguishable from the Athens city limits, it has a unique feel and is less chaotic than the metropolis just a few kilometers inland. There are a lot of reasonably priced corporate-style hotels here, and the lovely little enclosed harbor of Mikrolimano is very pleasant to stroll along and sit beside for dinner or a drink.
The impressive Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center isn’t far away, and is well worth checking out.
Where to stay
The Alex - A modern, boutique hotel from which to experience vibrant Piraeus and Athens ($150).
Triton Hotel - Solid 3-star hotel next to the port and the ferry gates for the Cyclades ($75).
Kypseli
Aghios Georgios Square in the Kypseli neighborhood. Photo: C messier, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
A vibrant area that was once an intellectual and artistic hub before becoming a melting pot of peoples as immigrants from Africa, the Middle East, and South Asia moved in, Kypseli is yet again evolving as more and more middle class families and young professionals move to the area.
This is probably not a great choice for first-time visitors as the neighborhood is hardly Greek in character and it doesn’t have many obvious points of interest, but if you’re returning to Athens for a second or third visit, you’ll find terrific (and varied) dining options at excellent prices, cheap accommodation, and vibrant culture. You’ll also get a new perspective on diverse and multi-cultural Athens and Greece.
While here, you can stroll the pedestrian avenues of Fokionos Negri and Agia Zonis, people watch and enjoy Athens coffee culture in Agios Georgiou Square, and relax in the green and calm Pedio tou Areos Park. Sunday pop-ups and farmers market at Kypseli Municipal Market are also interesting.
Where to stay
Victory Inn - A simple, clean, convenient, and well-located 2-star hotel near to the Victoria metro station and Pedion Tou Areos Park ($60).
Neighborhoods of Athens to avoid
Athens is very safe and with a little common sense there’s really nowhere in the city that one would define as “off limits”. That said, a few areas of Athens that I just don’t recommend to visitors are Omonia (centered around Omonia square) and the streets around the Attiki train station and the Acharnon and Liossion stations.
These areas aren’t really unsafe, but they’re simply seedy and not very interesting. They’re among the poorest parts of the city and they’re very commercial and quite ugly. You’ll find lots of cheap clothing stores, cell phone shops, warehouses, distributors’ offices, and fast food/take-away restaurants.
You’re unlikely to encounter violent crime anywhere in Athens, these areas included, but they’re rather run-down and at nighttime they can feel fairly unpleasant. Female travelers in particular may find them to be somewhat uncomfortable at any time of day.
Now, having said all of that, if you’re on a very tight budget and can deal with everything I’ve mentioned above, Omonia is extremely central and very affordable, and has lots of decent 2-star hotels. It’s certainly the cheapest area you can stay within central Athens, and is just a few minutes’ walk from many of the main sights. It’s also well connected via its metro stop.
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