A Local’s Guide to Visiting Athens
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One of the world's oldest continuously-inhabited cities, Athens changed history 2,500 years ago so dramatically that the reverberations continue today. Athens gave the world democracy, theater, and works of art that have rarely been equalled since.
A city of 250,000 all the way back in the 5th and early 4th centuries BC, it attracted the best minds, architects, sculptors, and painters from across the ancient world: Plato and Aristotle are the most famous philosophers who taught here, but the list goes on.
Paris has the Eiffel Tower, its symbol visible far and wide; Athens has the Acropolis, beautifully illuminated at night, a constant reminder of its past glory, floating high over the dense urban fabric where we Athenians go about our business.
Athens today is a big international metropolis, with masses to see and do, but it also has a friendly, convivial, and good humored atmosphere. I think part of the reason for this is because more than almost any other European capital, the climate here allows us to be outdoors day and night for much of the year.
We like each other’s company and it’s easy to strike up a conversation and have a laugh with a complete stranger, even for foreigners, as most Greeks speak excellent English.
In the past few years, Athens has also become a city of contemporary art. The music, dance, and theatre festivals bring in world class acts. It’s become a hub of creativity in the kitchen, too, offering high-end Michelin starred cuisine along with very affordable standbys, the tavernas we Athenians love.
And the city just gets under your skin: many visitors return over and over again to get a hit of what I think may just be Europe’s liveliest capital.
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A brief history of Athens
As the country’s major international airport is just outside of Athens, most overseas travelers arrive here by default, regardless of whether their ultimate destination is a beach, island, mountain, or cultural holiday elsewhere in the country. And since you’ll be landing here anyways, it would be a real shame not to linger for at least a few days, getting a first-hand look at the monuments and art that gave birth to much of Western Civilization.
Everything you’ve learned about Greece in your school lessons and history books takes on a deeper, richer meaning once you’ve been to Athens.
But to make sense of Athens today, it helps to have a bit of background. The ancient city-state had reached its apogee of brilliance in the mid 5th century BC - as the Parthenon was completed -, when the Peloponnesian War with arch-rival Sparta broke out and brought about its sudden decline.
Athens was then easily swept up by Alexander the Great, and afterwards by Rome. It became nothing more than a backwater town during the Middle Ages when it was a part of the Byzantine empire, and was then occupied by the Ottoman Turks for 400 years.
But the achievements of ancient Athens were never forgotten: when Greece emerged victorious in their War of Independence in the 1830s, Athens, by then not much more than a village, was chosen as capital of the new country.
European architects arrived to adorn Athens with grand Neoclassical public buildings and wealthy Greeks from the diaspora built splendid mansions, many of which are now museums or embassies. But any dreams of making Athens a beautiful city (I love this place, but beautiful it’s not) were thwarted by a lack of money and the need to provide housing on the quick and cheap, especially after 1923, when the population exchange with Turkey saw the arrival 1.2 million ethnic Greeks.
The Nazi occupation in World War II was followed by the Greek Civil War, which was followed in 1967 by the military junta. Those of us who are old enough to have lived here during this time felt a sense of joy and relief when Greece was admitted to the EU in 1981, and we were fiercely proud when Athens hosted the 2004 Olympics. It was a golden year: in 2004 Greece won the European football (soccer) championship. It even won the European Song Contest.
Five years later, the economic crisis hit Athens in the teeth, followed by the Covid-19 pandemic. Those who could left for jobs abroad and what feels like half the shops in the city were boarded up.
But the story doesn’t end there: a city of resilience, Athens is back with a bang. Exciting new art galleries, hip shops, and restaurants and bars are opening all the time. Even we Athenians can hardly keep up!
If you’ve never been to Greece before, this city provides the perfect introduction to the country. And even if this isn’t your first time, I think you’ll be quite pleasantly surprised by the buzz, lively atmosphere, and growth that the city is currently experiencing.
Where is Athens?
The capital of Greece, Athens is in the relatively arid, mountainous region of Attica, surrounded by the Aegean Sea. It grew up and expanded out around the easily-defendable Acropolis, a few miles inland from its port - Piraeus -, the main base for ferries, catamarans and hydrofoils traveling to/from the Greek islands.
With a population of 3.1 million, Greater Athens spreads far and wide, down to the sea and up the along mountainsides. Even if you live in Athens, it’s not always easy to tell where one suburb ends and the next begins.
One of the things that I love most about Athens is how easy it is to escape the city and get out into nature. From the middle of the city, let’s say in Syntagma square, the beach is just 30 minutes away via an easy, inexpensive tram ride. Alternatively, you can head up to the mountains within an hours’ drive, or you can reach the pretty island of Aegina by way of a 1-hour ferry ride from Piraeus.
How to get into the city center
Athens is the gateway to Greece and the city’s international airport, which has direct daily direct flights to and from countless cities around the world, is about 40km east of the city center.
Athens is also the hub for domestic air travel, with flights departing for the islands and other destinations throughout mainland Greece all throughout the day.
Getting from the airport to Athens city center
There are several ways to get into the city center from the airport:
Taking taxis: There are taxi stands right outside the arrivals hall, and fares to central Athens are fixed. UBER and other rideshare companies also operate from the airport, so you can easily hail a ride from them as well. Depending on the traffic (which can be totally nuts!), the drive can take well over an hour.
Taking the metro: During the day, when traffic is at its busiest, the quickest - and also cheapest - way to get into Athens is the Metro (Blue Line 3), which runs every 36 minutes and will take you to Syntagma Square in 40 minutes.
X95 Airport Bus: In case your timing doesn’t line up well with for the Metro (either because of a long wait between trains or if you arrive at an hour when it isn’t running), the X95 airport bus heads directly to Syntagma Square, takes an hour, and runs all night - which can be handy as flights into Athens often arrive at the most ungodly hours.
Getting from Piraeus port to Athens city center
If you are arriving to the city by sea, Athens’ oldest metro line, Green Line 1, will take you from the port of Piraeus right to the city center.
Quick tip
If you’re spending only three days in Athens, the 72-hour tourist ticket may be a good bet, as it covers all public transport in the city and also includes round-trip metro rides from/to the airport, which is a much more expensive ride than the standard metro journey.
Public transportation and how to get around
Trams in Athens. Photo: Badseed,CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Getting around Athens itself is very easy. Much of the historic center is compact and can be visited entirely on foot, but there will be times when you’ll want to use the city’s modern and inexpensive metro, bus, tram, and trolley system.
Like many cities, tickets are now on re-chargeable cards (the ATH.ENA card) that you can use across the system, for a single or multiple journeys. If you plan to take public transit more than a few times, the 24-hour or 5-day ticket will definitely save you money.
You can also ride the touristy but quite convenient Hop-On Hop-Off bus, which is primarily focused on sightseeing, but doubles as a great way to get around. There are three lines, and they run in Athens, Piraeus, and along the Athens Riviera. Tickets are good for 48 or 72 hours.
There are also plenty of taxis (always take official ones) and you can always book a ride on Uber.
For your time in the city, definitely do NOT rent a car; the traffic is terrible and parking is a nightmare. If you plan to do a day trip somewhere outside of Athens that will require having a car, it’s most convenient to pick up the car at one of the offices at the airport or on the outskirts of the city, notably to the west near the E75 motorway. Getting your car outside of the center means you won’t have to deal with the city traffic.
Connect with Luca in Sifnos for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips for a better visit!
When to visit
Athens can bake in the higher 30Cs and into the low 40Cs (high 90s and over 100F) between June and September, when the throngs at the popular sights can be overwhelming. My favorite time of year in Athens is late September or early October, when it’s still warm enough to sit outside or hop over to a beach along the Athens Riviera.
We Athenians are more relaxed, kids are in school, the sights and museums are far less crowded. Plus the skies are free of the summer heat haze that hangs over the city — from the Parthenon, you can see the Aegean Sea shimmering in the distance.
Visiting in autumn
Cooler temperatures, lower hotel prices and fewer fellow visitors make this a great time to visit Athens. All of the chefs, musicians and clubs that left the city for the islands during the summer are back in town, and the city’s cultural season is in full swing by October.
It’s also a good time to spend a day on Aegina, less than an hour away by sea: not only does it have the best preserved temple on any Greek island, mid-September is the time of its pistachio festival. And Aegina’s pistachios are the best in the world—trust me!
Visiting in winter
Not only do airfares and hotel prices plummet, but winter is when you’ll really feel like a local. It can get cold and wet (it can even snow—it’s magical but rarely stays long) but Athens is full of great museums to visit when the weather’s bad. There are concerts of all kinds and films, and the chance to visit the Acropolis practically on your own.
The Christmas season runs from 6 December to 6 January, when the city is bedecked with lights and children sing carols (kalanta). You can even combine a winter city break with a skiing holiday on Mount Parnassos, the mountain of the Muses, three hours away, and have nearby Delphi, the ancient oracle of Apollo and one of Greece’s most beautiful sights, practically to yourself.
Visiting in spring
It may rain occasionally in spring, but it’s usually warm enough to sit outside. Flowers are in bloom, and the city feels fresh and new. The temperatures are just right for outdoor sightseeing. The first big wave of tourists around Catholic Easter.
Greek Easter, the biggest holiday of the year, usually follows, sometimes by a month. There are Good Friday processions, a chance to watch the flame from the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem arriving at Agioi Anargyroi church in Plaka, before going to the Cathedral.
At midnight on Easter Sunday everyone brings a candle to church and after the priests declare Christos Anesti! Christ is risen! we pass on the flame from candle to candle while fireworks fill the sky. Then everyone goes home or to a restaurant for the traditional Easter meal, followed by a long lunch featuring spit roast lamb, and plenty of wine, music and dancing.
Visiting in summer
It can be seriously hot in Athens during peak tourist season when some of the narrower streets in Plaka are elbow room only, although it must be said that it’s rarely humid and usually just getting into the shade out of the sun is enough to make it tolerable.
We Greeks eat a late lunch and if we can, have a mid-day nap to avoid the late afternoon heat. We re-emerge in time for a drink and then stay up late, enjoying the cool of the night. You get two days in one that way. Try it!
Summer is also the time of the Athens and Epidauros Festival. World-class opera, concerts, theatre and ballet performances take place in the Odeon of Herodes Atticus and the magnificent 4th-century BC theatre of Epidauros - you can purchase tickets that include bus transportation there and back to Athens.
How long to spend
While you could spend a lifetime exploring Athens (that’s what we Athenians do!), I think 3 days is about the right amount of time for a first visit, as this will give you a chance to see the highlights without running around like crazy, and will let you get a feel for the city and its energy.
You won’t see “everything” with just a couple of days, but I don’t think that’s really your goal, and I’ve found that for many visitors, Athens is such an intense, full-on experience -especially in the summer - that by the end of the third day most people are ready for a beach break, island visit, or some time in the mountains.
Here’s what I’d suggest for a 3-day stay:
Day 1
Get up early to see the Acropolis in all its glory. Do purchase a timed ticket online before you arrive; it’s at its most beautiful in the morning light. The Parthenon dominates Athens even by night, when it’s bathed in golden light. But to get the most out of it, either bring a good guide book or hire a guide at the site; signage is minimal.
Afterwards, rather than walk down the way you came, follow the peripatos path down around the north slope--a fascinating walk past ruins of temples and cave sanctuaries. Look up and you can see the wall built of pieces (spolia) of the archaic Acropolis temples destroyed by the Persians in 480BC, before Pericles built the Parthenon.
Next stop: the nearby Acropolis Museum, which has a fine café for lunch with fantastic views. Afterwards, wander through the ancient streets of Plaka, the neighbour under the Acropolis—amid the tourist shops you’ll find monuments such as Hadrian’s Library and the Tower of the Winds.
Have a cocktail at Brettos, dinner at Mani Mani, and if the Athens Festival in on, head over the Odeon of Herodes Atticus for a performance.
Day 2
In the morning, stroll through the Ancient Agora. Have a coffee nearby, then walk over to the modern Agora—the Municipal Market, a ten minute walk north—lively, full of characters, and glistening arrays of seafood, meat, and masses of fruit, vegetables, nuts, herbs and much more.
After lunch, time for a museum—for instance, the Benaki for Greek culture, or perhaps the National Museum of Contemporary Art or the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation, either for 20th and 21st century art.
Take an early evening stroll along the cobbled pedestrian street that links the monuments of ancient Athens (stopping at Philopappos Hill for the famous sunset over the Acropolis), and after dinner join the crowds for a night out in Psirri.
Day 3
Time to gird your loins for the big National Archaeology Museum—one of the few that closes in mid-afternoon (although it stays open until 8pm on Tuesday). Allow at least two hours although I’ve never done it in less than four: there’s a café for refuelling midway.
Afterwards walk 10 minutes to Atitamos in Exarcheia for lunch, then take the funicular up Mount Lykavitos for the unforgettable views over Athens. Have dinner at Klimataria for a full on Greek taverna experience.
Where to stay
Athens has seen a plethora of chic new hotels, many in buildings converted from mansions or even office blocks, as well as thousands of Airbnb options. Although the metro system is excellent and runs until late, I recommend staying in easy walking distance of the sights if you’re only staying for a few days, although here too are a few suggestions if you’d like to stay away from the hubbub.
Because there are so many hotels and a lot of competition, room prices are very dynamic, changing according to demand. In the old days we used to call the hotels and ask for their best offer; these days, just check the internet.
If you’re a gambler, waiting to book until the last minute can produce some amazing deals in some of the city’s most expensive hotels. But all the more affordable hotels might be full.
For more detailed information, have a look at our where to stay in Athens guide.
Plaka & Monastiraki
In 1834, when Athens became the capital of modern Greece, its population of 200 or so all lived in this neighbourhood piled under the Acropolis. Its winding lanes, some dating from ancient times, are lined with Neoclassical houses that are now mostly shops, bars, restaurants and hotels, liberally peppered here and there with ancient ruins.
It’s touristy, noisy and fun. There are some very expensive choices here, but here are some more reasonable standbys.
Kimon (€55—€115 per night)
Plaka Hotel (€72—€182 per night)
Athens Starlight Hotel (€110—€163 per night)
The Marblous Athens (€221—€143 per night)
Acropolis & Makyrgianni
This elegant neighbourhood south of the Acropolis is framed by the Acropolis Museum and the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and it’s the perfect location if you want to be one of the first in the morning to visit the Acropolis (as I think you should).
Makyrgianni Street is lined with restaurants, popular with Acropolis and Acropolis Museum visitors (meaning they’re pretty touristy), but the area becomes much more peaceful after dark.
The Acropolis Metro here is a convenient link to the rest of Athens.
Acropolis Stay (€78—€231 per night)
Urban Stripes Apartments (99—205 per night)
Coco-Mat Athens (€148--€335 per night)
Psirri
Lively Psirri, with its narrow streets and funky bars and restaurants, sees much of central Athens’s nightlife, which is saying a lot because the nightlife here is excellent - we Athenians are night owls. If you are too, you’ll be happy here; if not, you might pack your ear plugs or look elsewhere.
Recently, many of the bars and restaurants have hosted outdoor musicians and singers who usually perform until midnight, while music bars stay open much, much later.
The neighborhood is in walking distance of most of the ancient sights. Monastiraki is the nearest metro station.
Ederlezi Boutique Hotel (€67—€182)
Clyde Athens by Nin & Bau (€87—€190 per night)
The Residence—Christokopidou Hotel & Spa (€136--€274 per night)
Thissio
Named after the Temple of Theseus, the neighborhood of Thissio lies just to the west of the Agora, and is quieter and more residential than Monastiraki. Some of the tiny shops wedged in between the apartments haven’t changed in 50 years.
Bars and restaurants line the pedestrian walkway that links the ancient monuments of Athens, many with Acropolis views. Thissio is also quite close to the Kerameikos, the evocative cemetery of ancient Athens, and Technopolis, which sees a lot of nightlife.
The Thissio Metro is right here, which offers direct links to Piraeus, and the Kerameikos Metro is close by as well, which is on the Blue 3 airport line.
Acropolis Vision (€106--€145 per night)
Be My Guest Athens (€94—€224 per night)
O&B Boutique Hotel (€87—€227 per night)
Koukkaki & Petralona
These are two very pleasant, fairly central neighborhoods that offer a nice bohemian atmosphere and a mix of hipsters, young families, and tourists.
There are a number of pretty squares and streets here, many of which overflow with outdoor dining and evening revelers during warmer times of year. You’ll also find independently owned shops and boutiques, little galleries and artists studios, and all manner of other neat stores to check out during a wander.
The neighborhoods are right at the foot of the Acropolis and Philoppapus hill, putting them within easy walking distance of the historic center, but with a fraction of the crowds of somewhere like Plaka or Monastiraki.
Exarcheia
Behind the National Polytechnic School and the University of Athens, cool Exarchia is the traditional alternative/student/intellectual quarter. Because of that, disapproving locals call it ‘Anarchia’.
What’s more, although it’s perfectly safe, few foreign tourists ever make it to its narrow lanes, lined with street art, bookstores, craft, vintage clothing, and music shops, and bars and tavernas which often feature live music.
Panepistimio or Omonia are the nearest metro stops but there are plans to build a station in Exarcheia Square along a future Line 4 (many locals are opposed to this, so we’ll see what happens).
Orion & Dryades Hotel (€53—€63 per night)
Exarcheia House Project (€93—€134 per night)
Alter Athens (€111—€126 per night)
Restaurants and dining
The view from the rooftop of the Hotel Grand Bretagne. Photo: Mariavazoura, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Eating out is the national pastime in Greece. The social aspect - meeting family and friends - is nearly always as important as the food, especially in tavernas, where we order for the whole table and share as if we were at home. This is especially true for the mezedes, or starters, which everyone digs into together. We Greeks want to taste everything!
And we eat pretty late, at least by most people’s standards: breakfast is usually light and had whenever you get up, lunch is at 2 pm, and dinner at 10pm. Although Greeks won’t be out for dinner until around 9 at the earliest, most restaurants open their doors much earlier now, and many never actually close during the day (which they used to do between lunch and dinner), and certainly not during the tourist season.
These days you’ll find restaurants of every type. We Athenians love the chance to try new things, but if you’re only in the city for a few days, I recommend sticking to Greek food, which has a a ton of variety, is local, delicious, and by international standards, very affordable.
Unless you’re grabbing a souvlaki, tiropita (cheese pie), or gyros from a street stall it’s essential to book a table to avoid disappointment. And don’t worry, whoever answers the phone will speak English.
Here are some of the places that I’d recommend you check out during your visit:
Upscale and for special occasions
1. Delta: Located in the sleek new Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center in Kallithea, the two-Michelin star Delta is the fief of chefs George Papazacharias and Thanos Feskos.
You don’t have to decide what to order: there’s a 12-course tasting menu, based entirely on sustainable local ingredients so always changing, and always a memorable experience.
2. Mani Mani: I’ve loved this restaurant ever since it opened in 2004. Located in a Neoclassical mansion not far from the Acropolis Museum, Mani Mani—named after the Mani peninsula in the Peloponnese--was one of the very first to introduce regional contemporary cuisine to Athens. It just seems to get better and better.
3. Strofi: One of the classics when our parents’ generation went for a special anniversary dinner, Strofi opened in 1975 and is still going strong thanks to its superb, varied seafood and meat menu, charming staff and the to-die for romantic view over the Acropolis by night. Be sure to book early to bag a table on the coveted terrace.
4. Varoulko Seaside: When we Athenians want seafood, we traditionally go to Piraeus so we can admire the sea while devouring on the day’s catch. Among the scores of seafood restaurants, this one with a Michelin star stands out with views of the fishing boats bobbing in Piraeus’s bijou Mikrolimani Bay.
Traditional tavernas
5. Platanos: When you’re in the heart of old Athens, treat yourself to a good old fashioned taverna at least once. This one in Plaka, named after its enormous plane tree, has been serving the dolmades, tzatziki, stuffed tomatoes, Greek salads and lamb since 1932.
6. Klimataria: Tucked away behind the vegetable stands in the Central Market, Klimataria burned down in 2005 but much to everyone’s relief it was rebuilt as it was and once again has the vines of its name growing along the ceiling.
Be sure to book one of its rustic tables when there’s live Greek music by the wine retsina barrels, with just enough room for a dance if you feel like it, accompanied by hearty Greek food served in a wink of the eye.
7. Atitamos: This taverna with a few outdoor tables in Exarchia serves exceptionally good takes on the Greek classics—even if you turn up at 11pm there may well be a line waiting to get in, although it seems you never have to wait long.
Atitamos is popular with locals and families, with a lively atmosphere and great staff. Be sure to save room for their melt in your mouth orange cake.
8. Saita: Most tourists in Plaka walk past without even noticing the humble steps leading down to this age-old taverna in a basement, with a handful of outdoor tables.
The signature dish is bakaliaros skardalia (battered cod with garlic sauce) is so delicious that it seems a shame to order anything else, but my friends say it’s all good.
9. To Steki tou Ilia: The food at this taverna in Thissio couldn’t be more typical (it’s best known for grilled lamb chops, which you ordered by the kilo). What I like is the large shady garden where you can sit out and feel as if you’ve been transported into the country, even in the heart of Athens.
Contemporary dining
10. To Mavro Provato: Opened in 2012, ‘the Black Sheep’ was one of the first and still one of the best modern Greek bistros, serving imaginative takes on Greek classics and inventing new ones based on local ingredients. Great house wine, too. You’ll need to book about three days in advance to get a chance at a table—it’s very popular and deservedly so.
11. Oinoscent: In ancient Greek oinos means ‘wine’, and this minimalist wine bar pours some of the finest bottles from the country’s most prestigious vineyards (I recommend trying Naoussa’s xinomavro). Sipping a glass with their stylish Mediterranean dishes will put a bit of heaven in your mouth.
12. Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani: Part deli, part restaurant, and a great place to try regional Greek cuisine, with recipes and ingredients sourced from across the four corners of Greece.
The food is so good it’s hard to decide what to choose (I usually leave it to the staff who have never chosen wrong). At the end, there’s a free dessert that: Greek yoghurt with carrot marmalade, as tasty as it is unusual.
13. Ama Lachei: Sitting out in plant-filled garden courtyard of the modern Greek restaurant in Exarcheia is a real treat. Although billed as a mezopoleion (small plates restaurant), portions are generous—my go-to favorites are the kavournas (spicy potted lamb) with hummus and the feta loukoumades (beignets) in honey.
Cafés, Bakeries, and Bars
14. TAF (The Arts Foundation): Founded in 2009/ when the Greek economy was at its lowest point, TAF hidden among the tourist shops in Monastiraki offered a beacon of hope, a place for artists and art lovers to gather, drink cocktails and put on performances. It’s one of the best places to take the pulse of Athens’s vibrant art scene. Open until 3am.
15. Brettos: Opened in 1909, this bar is an institution in Plaka, with colourful bottles all the way up to the ceiling and wooden barrels for tables. They boast over 50 flavours of liqueurs, not to mention Greek brandy, ouzo, raki and wine, and cocktails.
16. Fillo: A savoury pie baked in crispy warm fillo pastry is the go-to snack in Athens, especially in mid-morning when you need a little something to keep you going until lunch, so its not surprising most of the best pie shops in Athens are located around all the government offices in Syntagma Square.
This one offers around fifty kinds of pies, savoury and sweet, made according to recipes from all the regions of Greece
17. Little Kook: Psirri’s Little Kook has become an Instagram sensation with its extraordinary street décor that takes up much of a block and changes according to season. My favourite is Halloween, packed full of ghoulish glamor—which is another good reason to come in the fall.
Kids love it—and the crepes and ice cream are served by waitstaff in costumes that match the theme. All good fun.
What to see & do
It should come as no surprise that the truly unmissable sights in the city are all ancient Greek ruins. The incredible remains of this ancient city-state from which Western Civilization sprung are truly unique in the world, and any first visit here should absolutely begin with them.
With that being said, Athens has a lot more to offer than “just” ruins, so I’ve also included below a nice selection of museums, galleries, cultural centers, viewpoints, squares and green spaces, and other spots that I think are really nice to visit whether this is your first or your tenth time here.
Iconic sights, landmarks, and monuments
1. The Acropolis
Le Corbusier called this mighty rock crowned by arguably the world’s most famous building a ‘clamorous outcry against a landscape of grace and terror’. When the Parthenon was built in the mid 5th century BC, each and every component of Pentelic marble was individually cut within a fraction of a millimetre of perfection, using complex calculations to make the temple appear visually straight and true from any angle.
Architects say the Propylaea or gateway is just as perfect (remember that as you stretch your legs on its high steps.) The Acropolis’s other temple, the Erechtheon, with its famous caryatid porch, isn’t bad either. Under Pericles, it took only nine years to build the Parthenon; the restorations, begun in 1975, are finally almost complete.
2. The Theatre of Dionysus
Drama was born in around 532 BC when a certain Thespis became the first actors in history, beginning the transformation of religious rituals into the art we still love today.
This large theatre scooped out of south slope of the Acropolis rock is nothing less than world’s oldest playhouse, where all the ancient classics, Oedipus Rex, Medea, The Frogs, etc—and hundreds more that haven’t survived-- debuted during the festival of Dionysos, the god of wine and ecstasy, or as we might say today, ‘sex, drugs and rock n’ roll’.
3. Ancient Agora
The heartbeat of the world’s first democracy, this is where Socrates used to buttonhole Athenians and ask them the probing questions recorded by Plato. Originally a market and meeting place, it is still dotted with relics of its once lavish monuments and temples, including the city council chamber, the mint, the library, the bema (speaker’s platform), and altars.
It was once lined with stoas (colonnaded halls); one, the Stoa of Attalos, was reconstructed and houses a museum of finds from the site.
The Agora’s 5th-century BC temple of Hephaestus (long misnamed the Theseion, after the Athenian hero Theseus) is nothing less than the best preserved Doric temple in the world.
4. Temple of Olympian Zeus
Just east of the Acropolis are the gargantuan columns of what, in the 6th century BC, was intended to be the largest temple in the world, dedicated to the king of the gods of Olympus. It was completed in 132 AD under the Roman emperor Hadrian—638 years later!—and held an enormous Chryselephantine (gold and ivory) statue of Zeus.
It never recovered from damage in a barbarian invasion in 267 AD and an earthquake some 300 years later, but 16 surviving columns hint of its former glory.
5. Kerameikos cemetery
Off the main tourist trail, at the west end of Athens, the ancient cemetery is named after the ceramic workshops that once stood nearby, where those famous Greek vases were produced. The cemetery with its ancient monuments is now sunken below modern street level, making it one of the rare places where much of the modern city seems to disappear, and with a little imagination you can time travel back 2000 years.
6. Panathenaic Stadium
From 566 BC into the 2nd century AD, this stadium hosted the quadrennial games in honour of the goddess Athena. One of the ancient world’s billionaires, Herodes Atticus rebuilt it entirely in glistening white marble, able to seat 50,000.
It hosted the first modern Olympics in 1896, and is also the place where the annual Athens Marathon ends, --starting, naturally, in Marathon itself, 26 miles away.
Museums, galleries, theaters, and cultural centers
Subterranean ruins at the Acropolis Museum. Photo: Tomisti, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
8. National Archaeology Museum
I suppose it’s not surprising that this big museum houses one of the world’s greatest archaeological hoards, dating from prehistory into the late Hellenistic era.
Highlights include the exquisite Minoan frescoes from Santorini, Cycladic figurines, the great bronze statue of Zeus, the golden mask of Agamemnon, stunning Greek vases, the sophisticated 2,000 year-old plus Antikythera Mechanism (‘the World’s First Computer’), and much, much more.
9. Acropolis Museum
This exceptional museum houses all the archaeological finds from the Acropolis. Lucky for us, the ancient Greeks superstitiously buried all gifts to the gods after the Persians burned the Acropolis in 480BC; many statues are so well preserved they still have their original paint.
The Parthenon-sized glass box on top of the museum allows you to view the famous marble frieze by Phidias (along with copies of the ones in the British Museum) while looking at the temple itself.
10. Benaki Museum
Housed in an elegant Neoclassical mansion, the Benaki Mseum offers a fascinating overview of Greek art and culture, from ancient times (its most famous exhibit is the Chryselephantine, ie ivory and gold, statue of Athena) up through the Byzantine and Ottoman eras, the War of Independence (Lord Byron’s desk, Ali Pasha’s rifle) and into the 21st century, including the Nobel Prizes won by Greek poets George Seferis (1963) and Odysseas Elytis (1979).
The special exhibitions are exceptional.
11. National Gallery
This recently renovated art gallery offers an enjoyable journey through five centuries of Greek art, even if El Greco is the only Greek artist you’ve probably ever heard of when you walk through the door. One you’ll remember is the country’s greatest 20th century painter, Nikos Hadzikyriakos-Ghikas, who might be better known if nearly all of his works weren’t in Greece.
12. Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art
The Goulandris family accumulated a prize collection of 3,000 pieces of Cycladic Art—those mysterious contemporary-looking white marble figurines from c. 3300-1100 BC.
Most are female figures with arms crossed over their chests, but there are also male musicians, all cut out of the marble of Paros and Naxos using obsidian tools, then finally polished with emery from Naxos. What did the figures mean to their makers? No one knows.
13. The National Museum of Contemporary Art
Located in the old Fix brewery south of the Acropolis, this museum is packed with paintings, sculptures, photography, videos and installations by Nam June Paik, Bill Viola, and a host of fresh Greek talent.
14. Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology
Kostas Kotsanas spent over two decades in libraries researching the technological advances of the ancient Greeks, and he discovered numerous surprises that were lost to history and had to be re-invented again. His interactive models demonstrate what they did.
The excellent staff can help explain everything.
15. Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation
Just east of the National Gardens, this foundation features an extraordinary $3 billion haul of modern art, including stunning works by Monet, Degas, Picasso and Braque.
16. Megaro Mousikis
Located amid the embassy and museum district just east of the centre, this huge palace of music is the seat of the Athens Philharmonic, and contains four stages for music, theater, and dance.
17. Odeon of Herodes Atticus
Herodes Atticus was a wealthy aristocratic Athenian of the 2nd century AD who taught the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius but spent most of his time in Greece. In Athens he built an odeon (music hall) in the slope of the Acropolis which is still used today for the summer Athens Festival of music, theatre and dance.
18. Onassis Stegi Foundation
This recently-built cultural center on Syngrou Avenue, the main road linking Athens and Piraeus, hosts a constantly changing program of cutting edge dance, theater, film, digital shows and science programs.
19. Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center
Greece’s billionaire shipping families, of which the Niarchos are members, rival each other when it comes to endowing Athens with culture: this striking new building designed by Renzo Piano houses the National Opera and National Library.
Around it is a large park planted with olives, cypresses, carobs and aromatic plants, adding a much needed new lung to the city.
20. Technopolis
The 19th-century gasworks that powered Athens gave its name to Gazi. the west Athens neighbourhood just beyond the Kerameikos cemetery.
Now converted into Technopolis, a huge venue for contemporary jazz and every other kind of music, full moon parties, kids’ activities, as well as acting as a hub for innovators and entrepreneurs.
Notable parks, squares, and significant streets
Syntagma Square. Photo: A.Savin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
21. Syntagma Square
The heart of modern Athens, traffic swirls night and day around ‘Constitution Square’. It’s overlooked by the former royal palace (now the Parliament), Presidential Mansion, and the city’s most famous hotel, the luxurious Grande Bretagne, built in 1842, which where an enormous list of celebrities and politicos have stayed over the decades.
Metro lines 2 and 3 meet in the Syntagma station, which displays ancient artefacts found during the building of the metro.
22. The National Gardens
Athens is short on green spaces, but stretching beyond the Parliament are the well maintained National Gardens. Planted in the 19th century and a cool haven of shade to escape the summer heat, it’s watered by a 6th-century BC aqueduct that takes water from the foot of Mount Hymettus and feeds the lake; originally it was the chief source of the city’s water in ancient times.
23. The cobbled lane linking ancient Athens
Completed for the 2004 Olympic Games, this pedestrian circuit around the Acropolis has several names (Dionysiou Areopagitou, Theorias, Apostolou Pavlou) as it links the major sites of ancient Athens, from the Temple of Olympian Zeus to Kerameikos.
It also passes footpaths leading up the Aeropagos (site of the ancient Athenian court, where St Paul preached) and Philopappos Hill, with a tall 2nd-century AD monument and the Pnyx, the seat of Athenian democracy, where male citizens assembledto vote. Both hill have superb sunset views over the Acropolis.
24. Ermou Street
Named after Hermes, the god of commerce, this pedestrian street stretching from Syntagma Square to the Thissio station is the main shopping street of Athens.
There are always people selling koulouri (sesame covered bread rings) and usually an old fellow playing an old fashioned street organ. Designer boutiques, however, are up in Kolonaki, the smart neighbourhood north of the National Gardens.
25. Strefi Hill
On the edge of Exarcheia, this hill, planted with pines, cypresses and eucalyptus trees is a city park and a favourite hangout of the locals; it too offers lovely views over Athens and the Acropolis and all the way to the Saronic Gulf.
Activities & experiences
Mount Lycabettus
26. Take in the views from Mount Lycabettus (Lykavitos)
If you’re feeling fit you could walk the 277m up hill, but the rest of us take the funicular from the upscale neighborhood of Kolonaki.
From the summit, greater Athens resembles a tsunami of white dominoes washed in from the Aegean; the Parthenon looks like a tiny white toy.
27. Watch the changing of the guard
The rifle-bearing Evzones, in their striking kilts and tights and tasselled red caps who stand motionless in front of the tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the top of Syntagma Square change every hour on the hour, high stepping in slow motion.
You’ll notice how they stomp hard in their heavy shoes: it’s to let the dead know the soldiers are still on guard.
28. Picnic at Moni Kaisariani
Grab a picnic and take a taxi up to Moni Kaisariani on Mount Hymettus, the violet mountain looming over Athens. The monastery, with its frescoes, flowers and friendly cat couldn’t be more charming and the fragrant woods all around are made for walks with all Athens sprawled at your feet; a 15-minute walk downhill will take you to bus 224 back to the centre.
29. Listen to live music in Psirri or head to the bars and clubs on the Athens Riviera
Live Greek music from the restaurants and bars fills the narrow lanes of Psirri year round. In summer, if you want to dance to DJs or live music until dawn, you don’t have to go to Mykonos: head instead to the bars along the Athens Riviera. I’m too old for such shenanigans but the kids say Bolivar is always a good night out.
30. Make your way to the beach
The 70km of seafront near Athens, scalloped with sandy coves and marinas, has waters warm enough for a swim until late October. For a quick dip, take Tram 6 from Syntagma Square to Eden, then Tram 7 to Paralia Glyfadas.
From there, you can take a taxi to chic Vouliagmeni, where you have the option of swimming in crater-like Lake Vouliagmeni; its mineral-rich spring waters are a constant 21-27C year round.
Local travel agencies offer visits to the landmark 5th-century BC Temple of Poseidon high on Cape Sounion at the Riviera’s end, a famous landmark for Greek sailors and a great place to watch the sun set.
31. Catch an outdoor film screening at Vox (or any number of open-air cinemas)
One of the joys of summer in Athens is its outdoor cinemas—and the good news is that Greeks are far more likely to subtitle rather than dub films. One of the oldest, VOX, is on top of a building near Exarcheia Square.
32. Go to church - especially the Mitropolis and Daphne
The large domed Mitropolis, the Cathedral of Athens, is midway between Syntagma and Monastiraki Squares, although I prefer the little Byzantine church right next to it, used as a cathedral during the Ottoman period and made out of a collage of antique bits and bobs from a temple on the site.
Recently the 11th century monastery church at Daphne, a UNESCO World Heritage site for its Byzantine gold ground mosaics, has reopened after decades of post-earthquake restoration (to get there, take the Metro Line 3 to Agia Marina, then pick up the bus towards Elefsina).
33. Seek out the Cycladic-style village under the Parthenon
In the early 19th-century, many of the stonemasons hired to build the new capital were from the tiny Cycladic island of Anafi. They built their little houses, island style, right under the northeast slope of Acropolis.
Although the houses were illegal, they are still there, in Anafiotika, one of the city’s most charming but seldom visited neighborhoods.
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