A Local’s Guide to Visiting San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
The Atacama Desert may seem like barren, uninhabitable terrain that stretches endlessly for miles and miles, and although that’s not entirely inaccurate, this part of Chile is actually a rather lively area with many attractions and activities for all kinds of visitors.
The entire desert covers an area that is roughly equal to the size of the US state of Georgia, but the most famous tourist attractions are located right around the town of San Pedro de Atacama, the principal gateway to the region and the hub for just about everything you’re likely to do here.
San Pedro is found in the very middle of this vast expanse and despite its small size (only around 10,000 inhabitants), it’s a lively place that’s quite fun to spend some time in.
Outside of town, there are a host of exciting day trip destinations, which among others, include the world’s highest geyser field and Chile’s largest salt flat, the Salar de Atacama (Atacama Salt Flat), ancient indigenous ruins, adobe churches built by Spanish missionaries, oases producing tropical fruits, landscapes resembling alien worlds, and the Andean high plateaux with its peatlands and unexpected abundance of wildlife.
It may be in the middle of the desert, but San Pedro has a lot to offer you.
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Table of contents
Why visit San Pedro
Where is San Pedro
How to get there
When to visit
How long to spend
Where to stay
Transportation and how to get around
Best places to visit
Activities in and around San Pedro
Local help with your planning
Surrounded by vast desert and endless coastline, San Pedro is at the center of a region brimming with incredible places to see. Your only challenge will be trying to figure out how to fit it all into one visit!
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Why visit San Pedro?
With its unpaved streets and adobe buildings, San Pedro is a charming town that will make you feel a bit like you’ve gone back in time. It is undoubtedly touristy, and most businesses cater to foreign visitors, but that's not a bad thing - you don’t really come to San Pedro to experience the town itself.
Rather, this is a base from which to explore the awe inspiring landscapes all around you, to learn about indigenous culture, and visit ancient ruins. Most of that takes place outside of town.
The surrounding area offers a wide array of unique activities. You can hike among indigenous ruins, stargaze under the clearest skies you’ll ever see, bath in reinvigorating hot springs, horseback ride in amazing almost Lunar landscapes, and birdwatch at the salt flats and high-Andean plateaux.
Archaeology and anthropology enthusiasts can explore ancient ruins, try to decipher unique geoglyphs, and learn about the pre-Hispanic Lickan Antay culture that flourished here around 400 BC. After being dominated by the Tiwanaku and Inca empires, in the 16th century they fell under the rule of the Spanish conquistadors, who began calling them Atacameños.
Since their native tongue, kunza, was not a written language, it was gradually lost over the centuries and few of the current descendants can still speak it. Nevertheless, they have strong community organizations and have successfully claimed their right to manage their ancient lands.
It’s also worth taking an astronomy tour that can provide insight into local beliefs and cosmovision.
If the current way of life in the desert interests you more than the past, you’ll be thrilled by visiting the oasis of Toconao, known for its traditional architecture made out of rhyolite (volcanic) rock.
A series of mountains and valleys provide adventure lovers with otherworldly experiences in places such as Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley) and Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley), which can be explored by trekking, biking, or horseback riding.
Wildlife and birdwatching fans can take spectacular photographs at the many wetlands just outside of San Pedro de Atacama. These include salt flats, brine lagoons, and a unique type of high-altitude peatlands – locally called bofedales – where it’s easy to see llamas grazing.
Where is San Pedro de Atacama
The Atacama Desert encompasses what Chileans call the Norte Grande (Large North), which extends from the border with Peru to the Copiapó River, and encompasses 3 of Chile’s 16 regions. In total, it covers an area of approximately 40,000 square miles, roughly the size of Iceland.
San Pedro de Atacama sits in the middle of the region (from a north to south perspective) on its eastern edge, not far from the border with Bolivia. The town is nestled between two mountain ranges – the Coastal Range and the Andes - and is about 1,000 miles north of Santiago, Chile’s capital city.
It is in the highlands of the Antofagasta Region, at an altitude of 2,439 meters (8,002 ft) above sea level and is merely 43 kilometers (26.7 mi) away from Paso Hito Cajón, the border pass to Bolivia over the Andes mountains, where tour operators cross for combined programs featuring both the Atacama and Uyuni salt flats (in Bolivia).
How to get here
If you’re arriving from Santiago, Chile’s capital city, the most efficient way to reach San Pedro de Atacama is by taking a two-hour flight to the city of Calama, the closest city with an airport. It’s quite common to arrange a private transfer with a tour operator direct from the Calama airport to San Pedro, but if you haven’t done that, here are your three options for reaching the town:
Book a seat on a shared transfer. There are always shuttle vans waiting around at the airport to take travelers on to San Pedro. You pay per seat, and the van leaves once all its seats are full. Tickets are usually fairly reasonably priced.
Take the public bus. There are several bus companies that run the route between Calama and San Pedro, and they each offices at the airport. The buses also depart directly from the airport.
You can see their timetables and book in advance, if you’d like, at the following two websites: https://kupos.cl/en and https://www.recorrido.cl/en. There are typically multiple departures each day.
Rent a car at the airport and drive yourself. You’ll find multiple car rental companies at the airport, offering varying price ranges, depending on the type of vehicle you want. Although the roads to reach San Pedro are in good condition, some companies will require that you drive a 4x4 to get there.
The drive takes a little over an hour.
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When to visit
Although the weather in San Pedro is pleasant throughout most of the year, some months are better than others and each season has its pros and cons. Keep in mind that this area experiences significant day/night temperature variations all year round, with averages of 70° F during the daytime that drop down to 30° F in the nighttime.
Another thing that’s important to remember is that the seasons are the opposite between the northern and southern hemispheres, so visitors from the northern hemisphere need to be aware that your summer will be our winter (and the same for the other seasons).
Another significant fact to consider is that Chile has a few holidays when all stores and services must close, as established by law. On these days, nothing will be open. These holidays are: New Year (January 1st), Labor Day (May 1st), National Independence and Glory of the Army (September 18 and 19), and Christmas (December 25).
This is also the case whenever there is an election, which in addition prohibits restaurants and shops to sell alcoholic drinks the day prior.
Visiting in Winter (June through September)
During the winter there are less people in San Pedro de Atacama, although families sometimes travel to northern Chile during their children’s two-week winter recess. Prices are also lower but with there are fewer choices, as some businesses will be closed at this time.
Temperatures tend to be much lower, as well, but they’re still not too bad, with average readings ranging from -0.4° C (32.72° F) to 22.1° C (71.7° F). There might be heavy snow in the Andes mountains during these months, sometimes forcing transport and border authorities to close domestic and international roads, as well as the crossings to Bolivia and Argentina.
If you’re here in June, don’t miss the winter solstice celebrations held by the indigenous communities, since it’s a sacred date for them. It’s also a public holiday in Chile, known as Indigenous Peoples Day. Although the exact day varies, it usually falls between June 20 and June 22.
Visiting in Spring (September through December)
Spring is a great time to travel to San Pedro de Atacama. The weather is mild and pleasant, attractions and services are open, but you won’t find any large crowds. If you come on the week of September 18, you might run into some people celebrating Chile’s independence from Spain.
You may also see more crowds, as schools take a recess that week and parents usually request some vacation days to enjoy the entire week off with their children.
Remember that most places will be closed on September 18th and 19th (for the holiday), unless they have special permits to hold Fondas, traditional parties to celebrate this festivity.
Visiting in Summer (December through March)
Summer, from December through March, is the high season for tourism all over Chile, and it’s when you’ll find the broadest offering of accommodations, activities, transportation links, and everything everywhere will be open. San Pedro is no exception to this.
Of course, this means that you’ll experience the biggest crowds of the year during this time, and prices will be at their peak. Chileans usually take their annual holidays in February and children don’t start school again until March, so February is usually the busiest month.
If you’re a fan of cultural traditions, you won’t want to miss the carnival in San Pedro de Atacama, which is always celebrated 7 weeks before Good Friday, and sees the town hold lively dances and colorful costumes.
Unfortunately, this is a tricky period to visit because the high-Andean plateaux of northern Chile and southern Peru experiences a weather phenomenon locally called invierno altiplánico (high-Andean winter - counterintuitive since it occurs during the summer season).
While some years the phenomenon will produce only a few scattered showers, other times it can manifest with heavy rainstorms, lightning storms, and hail that pour down relentlessly on the unprepared desert communities. This heavy precipitation can sometimes cause flash flooding of waterways and even mudslides, with disastrous consequences.
Visiting in Autumn (March through June)
Just like in Spring, Fall is also a fantastic time to visit San Pedro de Atacama. Things begin to wind down after the summer craziness and the area relaxes a bit, but most everything is still open and the weather is very pleasant.
How long to spend in San Pedro
For a reasonable visit to San Pedro de Atacama and its surroundings, you need a bare minimum of 3-4 days. This gives you enough time to explore the town and the area’s most popular must-see landmarks/attractions, and then to get a bit off the beaten path, visiting less commonly visited places.
Lots of people visiting San Pedro do so on organized multi-day tours, and a typical four-day itinerary offered by a tour operator will consist of different combinations of half-day and full-day excursions to the most iconic sites.
These are the Moon Valley, the Tatio Geysers, Laguna Cejar and other lagoons close to San Pedro de Atacama, Chaxa Lagoon at the Atacama Salt Flat, and the high-Andean lagoons of Miscanti and Miñiques, along with a visit to the town of Socaire.
If you prefer to get off the beaten path, you may want to consider exploring some of the following less known attractions: Valle del Arcoíris (Rainbow Valley) and Salado River, the hidden lagoons of Baltinache, the Chamán geoglyphs, the Jere Valley, and the Lickan Antay lookout.
While you can often visit a few sights in the same day, keep in mind that some excursions will require you to allocate a full day for just them. This is the case for the Tatio Geysers, which requires that you leave Saj Pedro before dawn, and the day trip to the high-Andean lagoons of Miscanti and Miñiques, both located above 4,000 meters (13,123 ft) above sea level.
Because of the altitude, it’s necessary to maintain a slow pace traveling up tot he lagoons and to allow your body to gradually adjust to the change of atmospheric pressure (which can cause altitude sickness even among the fittest of travelers). So, it’s important to take your time and make all the necessary stops. Along the way, I suggest you relax admiring an up-close view of the magnificent Licancabur volcano that rises up to 5,916 m (19,409 ft).
Where to stay
San Pedro de Atacama. Photo: Entropy1963, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original.
The only logistical base in the area is the town of San Pedro de Atacama, which will be your starting point for all excursions to the surrounding natural and cultural attractions.
San Pedro is also the only place with any significant amount of services and amenities, and its where you’ll find all the hotels, restaurants, and tour operators. You’ll find most businesses on Toconao and Caracoles streets.
There are four ATMs and several currency exchange offices in town, but you should know that the exchange rates offered here are usually quite bad, so it’s best to exchange your money in Santiago if you can. Exchange rates fluctuate daily in Chile, so don’t be alarmed if you see variations.
You should also consider that most businesses in the area, including restaurants and tour operators, will not take credit or debit cards for payment. In San Pedro, cash is king, so be prepared and bring plenty.
The town has typically been a more important destination for foreign rather than domestic tourists, mainly due to the high costs of getting here, and then the expensive rates for accommodation.
Over the years, many tourists, from all walks of life, have either settled here or come to work during their holidays, and as they shared their own country’s cuisine with the locals, San Pedro de Atacama became a true cultural melting pot; a unique place where you can find the a nice mix of traditional and international cuisine.
In turn, food and lodging options have also expanded, currently offering alternatives for all kinds of budgets, from hostels for backpackers to all-inclusive resorts. In fact, due to its growing appeal to both domestic and foreign nationals, its population has increased from 4,969 people in 2002 to 10,996 in 2017.
Transportation and how to get around in San Pedro
Because distances between San Pedro and the attractions outside of it are pretty small, and due to low demand for services, public transportation once in San Pedro is very minimal. There is one bus company that offers regular trips to and from Toconao, which is approximately 38 km (23.6 mi) away, and you will have to inquire about current schedules and rates at the San Pedro de Atacama bus terminal, located on Socaire street (about a five-minute walk from the main square).
So, your two real options for getting around are renting a car or going on trips/tours with local tour operators. I personally recommend renting a car most of the time, as this gives you total freedom. However, for some destinations, where the terrain is rough, the logistics complicated, and the drive times excessively long, it can make more sense and be more pleasant to visit on a guided tour.
For instance, to visit the Tatio Geysers, you’ll need to leave San Pedro by about 4:30 AM, and for me, that’s too early to want to drive myself. For trips like that, I prefer to join an excursion run by a local company.
There are tons of tour companies in San Pedro, and they offer all sorts of excursions, so you will have no problem finding tours out to the places you want to go.
In general, tourists are allowed to drive in Chile with their foreign driver’s license or an International Driving Permit (as long as you carry your passport at all times) for the duration of their tourist visa (usually 90 days). However, I suggest you check the updated requirements with your country’s embassy before planning a self-driving tour in Chile, just to be on the safe side.
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Best places to visit
Los Flamencos National Reserve
1. San Pedro’s town square
It’s always a good idea to start by walking around the main square and adjacent streets to get the lay of the land and see what the shops and handicraft market are offering. Like all high-Andean cultures, the Lickan Antay people (or Atacameños as they are sometimes called) produce colorful garments made from alpaca or sheep wool that contrast with the eternal desert sands.
2. Los Flamencos National Reserve
This is rarely mentioned, but most of the iconic attractions around San Pedro de Atacama are actually within one of the seven disconnected sectors that make up Los Flamencos National Reserve, the only protected area in the vicinity.
The different sectors are run by Chile’s national parks authority (the National Forestry Corporation - CONAF) in co-management with the corresponding Lickan Antay community (Caspana, Coyo, Socaire, Toconao, or Toconce), which is in charge of their on-site administration, selling entry tickets, and organizing tour logistics.
Therefore, if you’re visiting on your own, you’ll need to check availability and rates for each sector on their respective websites. Four of the sectors are currently closed to the public for conservation purposes.
If you choose to visit these places by hiring a tour, then make sure that the company will be in charge of booking the necessary services and purchasing the tickets.
3. Socaire and Miscanti and Miñiques Lagoons (Sector 3 of Los Flamencos National Reserve)
If you’re keen on observing wildlife and waterfowl, then you definitely must make the day trip to the high-Andean town of Socaire and the Miscanti and Miñiques Lagoons, located over 4,000 meteres (13,123 ft) above sea level and 118 kilometers (73.3 mi) southeast of San Pedro de Atacama.
This site is run by the Lickan Antay Community of Socaire and you can only access the lagoons, which are separate, by showing your confirmed reservation and completing your check-in at the Socaire Control Office. Check-in must be done one hour before the booked and confirmed time. If you fail to complete your check-in, you will not be allowed to enter the lagoons.
You can buy tickets through the community’s website: https://socairechile.cl/reservas/lagunas-miscanti-y-miniques/. You can also contact them via email: miscantimiñiques@gmail.com
4. Toconao and Atacama Salt Flat (Sector 4 of Los Flamencos National Reserve)
Another must-see attraction is the oasis of Toconao, 38 kilometers (23.6 mi) southeast of San Pedro de Atacama. The town is famous for its traditional architecture built using rhyolite (volcanic) rock, and its church and bell tower, built by the Spanish in the mid-18th century.
Toconao is also the gateway to Laguna Chaxa (Chaxa Lagoon) in the Soncor Sector of Los Flamencos National Reserve. Here, you can enjoy seeing bands of flamingos and other bird species eating from a brine lagoon at the Atacama Salt Flat.
The place is run by the Lickan Antay Community of Toconao and has a bilingual visitor center. You can find more information in English and buy tickets on their website: https://comunidadtoconao.cl/wp/en/st_tour/laguna-chaxa/
5. Pukara Quitor and Aldea Tulor (Sector 6 of Los Flamencos National Reserve)
The ruin sites of Pukará Quitor – a Lickan Antay fort dating from the 12th century – and Aldea Tulor (Tulor Village) are vestiges of this culture’s struggle to avoid being overpowered by pre-Hispanic civilizations expanding from the north, particularly the Tiwanaku and the Inca, albeit unsuccessfully.
The ruins are only 3 kilometers outside of San Pedro de Atacama and they are fascinating. At Aldea Tulor, there’s a trail that you can hike, but you will be accompanied by a tour guide of the Lickan Antay Community of Coyo, which runs the sites. You’ll need to book ahead of time at the following email: comdecoyo@yahoo.com
The ruins of Pukará Quitor. Photo: Alex Mazaira, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Salt Mountain Range, Death Valley, Moon Valley (Sector 6 of Los Flamencos National Reserve)
Venturing a little further into the desert (but still only 6 km from San Pedro), a tour combining the Cordillera de la Sal (Salt Mountain Range), Valle de Marte (Mars Valley), and Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) will provide fantastic views of this area’s unusual desert formations that some people say resemble landscapes from Mars and the Moon.
Everybody will tell you that you can’t miss the chance to watch the sunset at the Moon Valley, and they’re right! These amazing landscapes are also managed by the Lickan Antay Community of Coyo, and entry tickets can be bought here: https://www.puntoticket.com/valle-de-la-luna
7. Hidden Lagoons of Baltinache
25 miles south of San Pedro de Atacama, the Hidden Lagoons of Baltinache are an undiscovered gem in the Atacama Salt Flat. You’re allowed to go in the water, so bring your swimsuit and prepare to feel light as a feather while floating in this salty, salty lagoon. This is not part of the National Reserve, but it’s also run by the Lickan Antay Community of Coyo.
8. Tatio Geysers and Puritama Hot Springs
Take an early trip to the Tatio Geysers to admire the display of over 40 geysers with fumaroles reaching up to 10 meters (32 ft). At an altitude of 4,300 meters (14,107 feet), this geyser field is the highest in the world, and enjoying a picnic breakfast against the backdrop of huge mountains and desert plains is a truly magical experience.
Don’t forget to bring a swimsuit so you can enjoy the reinvigorating waters of the Puritama hot springs before returning to San Pedro de Atacama.
You need to pay an entrance fee ahead of time for both sights, none of which is part of the National Reserve. The Tatio Geysers are run by representatives of the Lickan Antay communities of Caspana and Toconce. You can find rates and schedules on their website in Spanish: https://eltatio.net/
The Puritama Reserve is owned and managed by a sustainable tourism lodge with long standing in the area. You can find rates and schedules on the Reserve’s website in English: https://termasdepuritama.cl/en/shop/
9. Quebrada de Jere
The Quebrada de Jere valley, a rare agricultural area in the Atacama, emerged from the union of small streams born in the highlands of the Andes Mountains that feed water to the Atacama Salt Flat and Toconao.
This water source allows the local community to grow a variety of plant species, mainly apricots, peaches, quinces, plums, pomegranates, water pears, grapes, figs, and oranges. They also cultivate native species such as molle bell pepper, carob, and chañar (Chilean green wood).
This site is located right next to Toconao, 35 km (21.7 mi) southeast of San Pedro de Atacama, and is run by the Lickan Antay Community of Toconao. For more information and ticket sales, visit their website: https://comunidadtoconao.cl/wp/en/st_tour/valle-de-jere/
Activities to do in and around San Pedro
1. Visit pre-Hispanic archaeological sites
Pukará Quitor and Aldea Tulor are the obvious first choices to see archaeological remains of the Lickan Antay culture. However, you can also find some less famous sites, such as the Catarpe Tunnel, which is only 5 km north of San Pedro de Atacama and can be reached via an easy trek to the tunnel and nearby cave with its ancient petroglyphs.
Farther away, about 90 kilometers from San Pedro, you can also visit the Valle del Arcoíris (Rainbow Valley) and admire the outstanding variety of colors in the rocks, as well as enjoy a hike to the amazing Yerbas Buenas Petroglyphs.
2. Ride horses through the desert
Several tour operators offer horseback excursions for beginner and experienced riders. Depending on your dexterity and interests, you can book tours lasting between two hours and ten days. I suggest starting easy, though, due to the altitude. The most popular destinations are the Death Valley and the Catarpe Valley.
3. Summit one of the area’s highest peaks
Some of the highest peaks in the Andes Mountain Range are found close to San Pedro de Atacama and its surroundings, which attracts many mountain climbing fans from around the world. Before you try to conquer a summit, however, you will need to get used to the altitude.
Several tour operators offer excursions with expert guides to the nine most popular mountains and volcanoes: Toco, Lascar, Sairecabur, Licancabur, Acamarachi, Soquete, Colorado, Simbad, and Miñiques.
4. Savor the local cuisine
In San Pedro, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to taste local dishes, such as the famous llama meat skewers and empanadas filled with goat cheese. The fusion of local Lickan Antay traditions with the cuisines of travelers coming from all over the globe has created a unique blend of indigenous and international cuisine that is known for its surprising fusion of flavors.
These include, for example, tabbouleh salads made with quinoa instead of bulgur wheat, steaks with a sauce made with fruits from the chañar tree, cheesecakes made with goat cheese and figs, and cocktails made with rica-rica leaves that resemble mint.
5. Go birdwatching
The many wetlands found in San Pedro de Atacama and its surroundings are all great places to see birds, but Chaxa Lagoon is every birdwatcher’s paradise. In addition to attracting hundreds of migratory species from North America, it is one of the most important nesting sites for the three flamingo species that inhabit Chile: Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis), Andean Flamingo (Phoenicoparrus andinus), and James’ Flamingo (Phoenicoparrus jamesi).
The best times to see birds feeding is during sunrise and sunset. Make sure to bring good binoculars and a camera with a long-focus lens to capture details.
6. Enjoy hiking with local Lickan Antay guides
The Lickan Antay communities have local guides in each sector of Los Flamencos National Reserve that they co-manage with CONAF. They share a general rule that all visitors are supposed to hike the designated trails accompanied by a local community guide who will explain the significance of the site and answer any questions.
Some tour operators overlook this rule, usually to avoid translating and taking longer than planned when there is a language barrier. However, if you can hike with a local guide, you’ll have a unique experience and will be showing respect and support for the native culture.
7. Gaze at the stars in the most beautiful night sky you’ll ever see
The Atacama Desert has some of the clearest skies in the world, which is why more than a dozen national and international observatories have set up telescopes in the area.
In fact, one of them is located right next to San Pedro de Atacama: the Atacama Large Millimeter/submillimeter Array (ALMA) observatory was built in 2004 by the European Southern Observatory to study how stars are formed. It’s located approximately 35 km (21.7 mi) southeast of San Pedro de Atacama, on the road that leads to Toconao.
ALMA offers guided tours (including transportation) free of charge on Saturdays and Sundays, departing from San Pedro de Atacama at 9:00 a.m. and returning at 1:00 p.m. Prior registration is mandatory and can be done on their website: https://www.eso.org/public/about-eso/visitors/alma/.
Other smaller but still well-equipped locally run observatories provide tourists with stargazing opportunities and a chance to also learn about Lickan Antay cosmovision. Several tour operators offer these excursions every night, except for when there’s a full moon.
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