A Local’s Guide to Travel in Asturias, Spain
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Despite its geographic isolation from the rest of Spain, tucked away in the far northwest, Asturias is considered by many Spaniards to be the heart of the country.
This is the only part of Spain that was never conquered by the moors, and it’s here that the Reconquest began. The Kingdom of Asturias, the first in Christian Spain, established its base in the mountains of Covadonga and slowly reconquered Spain.
With such a proud history, it should come as no surprise that this is a fascinating part of the country, with its own unique culture and traditions. Like Galicia, Asturias has Celtic roots, most clearly seen through its music and the presence of bagpipes. Its people also have a reputation for somewhat idiosyncratic behavior, and they’re known for having a strong nostalgia for the past.
Geographically, the region is wedged between the high mountain peaks of the Asturian Range and the Cantabrian Sea, and it is equal parts a mountain destination and a coastal haven.
Along the coast are elegant seaside towns, spectacular beaches, and the region’s few big cities. Just a few miles inland, you’ll find some of the most impressive mountains in Spain and a collection of remote parks and lost-in-time villages.
This is the epitome of northern Spain, showcasing the very best that this lush green part of the country is known for, and Asturias offers an unbeatable combination of attractions for vacationers.
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What is Asturias like? Why visit
Asturias is a part of the north that is typically referred to as “green Spain”, owing to just that, the lush greenery that you’ll find everywhere here! And while that is an apt description, Asturias can really be broken down into three separate categories:
First, the urban area, which is predominantly the triangle that connects Oviedo, Gijón, and Avilés. Next, the sea and the coastline, which stretches all along the north of the region from east to west. And finally, heading just a few kilometers inland from the coast, you have the mountains of the Asturian range rising up to 2,500 meters high.
Urban Asturias
If we talk about Asturias’ urban landscape, it’s three principal cities of Oviedo, Gijón, and Avilés, each with their own particular personality, are the major destinations of note, but the entire eastern side of the region along the coast is quite developed and fairly urban.
Oviedo is probably the best-preserved city in the region, and it’s certainly the most visited and internationally known - so much so that the famous director Woody Allen often says it's his favorite city in the world.
A visit to Oviedo is like a stroll through time; to the medieval splendor of the 10th century when this was the center of the Asturian Kingdom, to the elegance of the 19th century when famous authors like Leopoldo Alas "‘Clarín’ walked its streets. This is a city made for walking, getting lost, and marveling.
Gijón, on the other hand, is a maritime city, with all those characteristics that cities facing the sea usually offer: vibrant, lively, fun, cosmopolitan, nocturnal, and a little bit cheeky!
And Avilés, the industrial city of the bunch was once the ugly duckling, but has seen a rapid transformation in recent years, becoming modern and repurposing its formerly empty, abandoned industrial buildings for modern day uses.
The coastline
Asturias’ entire northern border runs along the Cantabrian Sea, so it should come as no surprise that the region has a strong maritime tradition. This can be felt quite clearly in Gijón, but even more so in the little fishing villages that dot the coast, from east to west.
The stretch of coast to the east of Gijón is fairly urbanized, with development running along much of the land until you reach the border with Cantabria. This isn’t to say that it’s industrial (far from that), but it isn’t entirely wild, unspoiled nature either. The coast here is a bit calmer than what you’ll find to the west.
Meanwhile, the western side of the region is much more rural, and the beaches are wilder, less developed, less crowded, and more like what you’d find in neighboring Galicia. The towns that dot the sea here are also smaller, and there’s less tourism than on the eastern coast.
With over 200 beaches in the region, there are all types: wide, sandy shores, hidden coves, rocky beaches, dunes backed by pine forests, great surfing spots, calm bays, and crescents of golden sand with sheer vertical cliffs rising up behind them. You’ll be spoiled for choice.
The mountains
However, in Spain, Asturias is most often associated with the mountains, and outdoor adventures and mountaineers come from all over Europe to flock to the Picos de Europa National Park, which has some of the most impressive mountains on the entire continent.
Here, amongst the mountains are a wealth of hiking trails, incredible cycling routes, premier rock climbing areas, eco tourism, campgrounds, rivers, farms and local producers, bear watching (!), and unexpected historical sites. In Asturias, it wouldn’t be inaccurate to say that the mountains are and contain everything.
Furthermore, it’s in the small isolated villages tucked away between mountains where the best Asturian culinary traditions are still carried on today. A culinary culture epitomized by three dishes, two of them traditional and one modern: On one hand, the fabada (stew) and cider that Asturians have eaten and drunk since time immemorial. And, on the other, in that controversial dish known as cachopo: a huge veal steak, breaded and stuffed with cheese and other ingredients like cured beef, ham, or chorizo.
Ask any Asturian and they’ll tell you the same thing about their cuisine: to walk amoug mountains, one needs to be well fed. That’s never in doubt here!
Where is Asturias?
Photo: TUBS, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Principality of Asturias - known as such because the heir to the Spanish throne is called the Prince of Asturias - is one of the 17 autonomous communities that make up the Spanish state.
A part of northern Spain, also called “green Spain”, Asturias is located in the northernmost part of the country, and it borders the Cantabrian Sea to the north, Galicia to the west, Cantabria to the east, and Castilla Y León to the south. Its capital city, Oviedo, is about 450 kilometers northwest of Madrid, or just under 5 hours away by car.
A region defined by its powerful, impressive nature, the borders between it and its neighbors are marked by clear geographic boundaries, with the Deva River to separating it from Cantabria, the Eo and Navia Rivers drawing the border with Galicia, and the mountains of the Asturian range, in the south, cutting it off from Castilla Y León.
The urban centers of Asturias are all located on the coast or very close to it, and the vast majority of the population lives in the only three real cities - Oviedo, Gijón, and Avilés -, in the area immediately outside them, or along the coast.
In the rest of the region’s territory, you’ll find only small towns and little villages tucked far away in the mountains.
How to get here
Arriving by air
Asturias has a small airport in the city of Avilés, which is primarily served by domestic flights within Spain, as well as connections to a few other European countries.
These flights are typically run by low cost carriers and the tickets can be extremely affordable, especially if booked in advance. If you’ll be traveling in southern Spain before coming here, it’s often more convenient to book a flight, as you will otherwise be spending many hours in a combination of buses and trains.
Arriving by car
Asturias has very good connections with the rest of Spain, especially if you’ll be traveling by road. The entire region is crossed from east to west by the A-8 highway, which runs parallel to the sea and ultimately connects on to Galicia (in the west) and Cantabria and the Basque Country (to the east).
So, if you’re coming from anywhere else in northern Spain, the route is clear: hop in the car and head out along the A-8, or board a bus and do the same.
For anyone arriving here from the south, you’ll need to travel along the A-6 highway, which connects Madrid with the cities of Oviedo and Gijón. The drive takes about 4.5 hours.
Arriving by bus
The routes for getting to Asturias by bus are much the same as those that you’d take if driving: from anywhere else in northern Spain, you’ll get here via the A-8 highway that runs all the way from Galicia to the Basque Country and everywhere in between.
Meanwhile, from the south, the A-6 highway that connects to Madrid will be your bus’ route.
Regardless of where you’re coming from, the main bus company in Spain is ALSA, which operates the major lines/routes in northern Spain and between Madrid and the north. Oviedo and Gijón have good bus connections with all the other major cities in northern Spain, as well as with Madrid.
From Madrid, there are buses to Oviedo multiple times per hour every hour, from morning until evening. One-way tickets cost around 40 euros and the ride takes between 5 and 6 hours.
Arriving by train
Lastly, there is also a train line, run by RENFE, that connects Madrid with the three major Asturian cities (Oviedo, Gijón, and Avilés). The train is a fair deal quicker than the bus, with the ride typically taking only 3.5 hours.
There are around five departures each day, and one-way tickets cost between 40 and 70 euros.
Booking tickets: you can of course always book direct with the service provider, but if you want to check timetables, prices, and compare all your options in one place, the aggregator site Omio is super convenient.
Transportation and how to get around
As I’ve mentioned above, much of the allure of Asturias is in the nature that you’ll find here, and if you want to hop from beach to beach, head off into the mountains, or visit the little villages in the countryside, you absolutely need to have your own car.
However, that’s not to say that you need a car no matter what. For visitors who mainly want to stick to the cities or the towns along the coast, you can get around pretty conveniently with a combination of local city buses, medium-distance buses (run by ALSA), and the local commuter train line.
Renting a car
If you decide to rent a car, you’ll find all the major international rental companies in Asturias as well as some smaller local ones which are often less expensive. Any medium-to-large city will have rental agencies, but for the best selection you’ll probably want to rent somewhere with an international airport or a busy train station.
Your best two cities for renting a car are certainly Oviedo or Gijón.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars, a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
Suburban train
The suburban/commuter train lines in Asturias mainly run between and around the triangle formed by Oviedo, Gijon, and Aviles, but it also extends further inland and out along the coastline, including to popular towns like Llanes and Cudillero.
Its coverage is extensive and frequent for traveling in this general area, and the issue is just that many places you’re like to want to visit aren’t on the line. You can find a coverage map here.
Bus
If you want to get out to other towns, or into the Picos de Europa and other natural areas, the bus will sometimes be an option, but everywhere won’t be covered and coverage won’t be frequent enough to make this convenient.
Sometimes you might only find one connection per day between destinations, making it very hard to piece together a sensible itinerary. As always, check ALSA’s website for routes and timetables.
Best time to visit
Photo: Stefan Trauth, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Asturias is quintessential northern Spain, and what that means is green landscapes, pristine undeveloped beaches, great food, impressive mountains, and one other thing: rain, a lot of rain, and some wind and cold too - especially in winter.
Therefore, my recommendation is clear: if you want to experience Asturias at its best, visit it in summer.
Visiting in summer
Even though you can never guarantee a run of clear days here, the summer is usually quite sunny, with very pleasantly warm temperatures that are comfortable but rarely too hot, and long days where the sun doesn’t set until well into the night.
If you’re looking for the best weather and the one single time of year when you can hit the beach, visit the cities, and hike in the mountains on any given day, summer is the right choice.
Of course, it’s no secret that the summer is the nicest time of year in Asturias, and this period also coincides with children’s school holidays, so this is definitely the busiest time of year. The major cities, beaches and coastal towns, and even the most popular hiking trails will be fairly busy during this period, but unlike other parts of Spain, it’s rarely going to be uncomfortably or unpleasantly crowded.
Prices will be higher than at other times of year as well and accommodation can book out well in advance, but northern Spain is a fairly affordable destination, so it’s nothing crazy.
Visiting in spring or fall
Now, if being able to swim in the sea isn’t all that important to you but you still want pretty good weather and are most interested in hiking and exploring the mountains, the late spring and early fall are excellent choices.
Mornings and evenings are a little chilly during both seasons, but the afternoons are very pleasant, with warm temperatures perfect for hiking in a t-shirt and shorts. Rain is more of an issue than during the summer, so you’ll probably have a few rainy days or at least some showers to deal with, and there are more cloudy days as well, but there should still be plenty of clear skies and sun.
After the winter, the spring is a really lovely time, as the flowers burst into bloom and everything is green and growing. You will probably still encounter snow at high altitudes though, so know that some hiking and mountaineering activities may be difficult or closed entirely.
In the autumn, the foliage turns beautiful shades of orange, red, yellow, and brown, and the oak, beech, and chestnut forests in the mountains and valleys are truly spectacular. Hiking trails and high mountain passes will all be accessible too, so this is a great time for outdoor activities. Rain is more common toward the end of the season, so if you can make it in late September or October, that’s best.
Visiting in winter
A trip to Asturias in the winter is only for the most adventurous, or for people who don’t mind cold temperatures and near constant days of rain (is that anyone?).
High in the mountains you’ll find plenty of snow, but in most of the region it will just be cold and rainy - not ideal for sightseeing or getting outdoors. You’ll still be able to do some hiking, but many routes will be closed or inaccessible, and you should be an experienced hiker if you decide to venture into the mountains in winter.
The cities, villages, and beaches along the coast can be rather atmospheric on these cold, rainy days however, and there’s no better time of year to enjoy a fabada, the classic hearty Asturian stew.
If you have good rain gear and don’t mind getting wet, the cities and coast can still be interesting to explore, and you’ll be doing so with almost no other tourists around, which is fun.
Connect with Luis in Gijón for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!
How long to spend
Asturias is a medium-sized region and the 3 main cities here are all within about 30 kilometers from one another, so you can quickly and easily travel between them, sometimes visiting more than one in a single day.
But you don’t come to Asturias just to see its cities, and the beautiful natural areas - beaches, mountains, countryside - that you should absolutely visit here are not always so close together or easy to get to.
With that in mind, I think the perfect amount of time to spend in Asturias is a full week. That will give you enough time to thoroughly explore Oviedo and Gijón, venture out into the mountains in the Picos de Europa and Somiedo Park, and spend a few days bouncing around the coastal areas like Ribadesella and Luarca.
Your first two or three days should be spent in Oviedo and Gijón, the two main cities of the Principality, each which has its own distinc personality. Oviedo is ancient and classical, while Gijón is progressive and modern, with a strong maritime vibe. A day in each city is typically enough, but if you fall in love with one of them - something that many people do! - plan to linger a bit longer.
After some urban exploring, my recommendation is to distribute the remaining days based on your priorities and interests. If you're a fan of the beach and the coast, one option could be to head east, towards the Ribadesella and Llanes area, an urbanized but incredibly beautiful stretch of coastline.
You could spend another 2 or 3 days visiting the fishing villages and beautiful beaches on the coast, and then set off for a quick trip into the mountains.
If you want a wilder coastline, you should instead head west toward Galicia, where everything is more natural and less urbanized. Villages to look into include Luarca, Navia, Tapia de Casariego, Castropol, and Vegadeo.
Finally, finish your trip with a day or two in the Picos de Europa, hiking the 22km Ruta del Cares trail, visiting the Holy Cave of Our Lady of Covadonga in Cangas de Onís, checking out the incredibly picturesque Lakes of Covadonga, and wherever else strikes your fancy.
If you want more time in the mountains, you could easily spend a full week hiking and doing other outdoor activities in the Picos de Europa, Somiedo Park, Turía Valley, Cangras de Narcea area, and everywhere else you find mountains here! The entire Asturian mountain range is full of trails, peaks, villages, and fantastic traditional cusine.
Where to stay - best bases
Oviedo
Oviedo, Asturias’ capital, is almost always the first stop on any Asturias itinerary and it makes an excellent base for two main reasons: it’s a gorgeous historic city with a really charming center, and it’s close to everything. More or less in the center of the region, it’s the gateway to the mountains, is connected to both the east and west coasts, and is less than 30 kilometers from Gijón and Avilés, Asturias’ other two principal cities.
If you’re planning one primary base for your visit, Oviedo is the obvious choice.
Gijón
Right on the coast, Gijón is a lively, fun city that has a distinctly seafaring and maritime air to it. One of the other major cities in the region, it’s not as pretty than Oviedo, but still has a nice historic center (Cimadevilla), interesting cultural and historical sites to check out, good transit connections to other areas, and excellent urban beaches right within the city limits.
Many other pretty little coastal towns and lovely beaches are within easy drives (or even bus rides) of here, so it’s super convenient for exploring the coast.
It’s worth staying here at any time of year, but if your visit is during the summer months, it would absolutely be a mistake not to spend at least a night in town.
Cangas de Onís
Moving inland from the coast, the pleasant town of Cangas de Onís is an excellent base from which to explore the Picos de Europa and Asturian mountain range. There are other more secluded places to stay that are more fully immersed in the mountains (Sotres or Arenas de Cabrales come to mind), but Cangas de Onís is the closest thing you will have to a city while in the mountains.
There are lots of accommodation options and restaurants here, and the evenings have more going on than in the smaller towns, so if you want to be close to nature without sacrificing liveliness, this is the spot to be.
Cudillero, Luarca, Ribadesella…
Finally, I must also mention some of the coastal towns like Cudillero, Luarca, and Ribadesella. Each one is found along a different point of the Asturian coast, but all three have a similar appeal: dozens of the best beaches on the Iberian Peninsula, seafood and fish of the highest quality, and a lively atmosphere that doesn’t become overwhelming, even in the summer months.
Any of these is a great option if you prioritize the beach and the sea over cities and mountains.
Best places to visit
Between its cities, mountains, beaches, fishing villages, and everything in between, a “best places” list for Asturias could easily get way too long to be useful. With so much to see and do, it's no easy feat to narrow down the list, but that’s what I’ve done here anyways.
Below are the 12 places that I think you should absolutely prioritize visiting on a trip here, but of course, there are many more that I’ve had to leave out. Those you’ll have to discover on your own!
1. Oviedo
Fontán square in Oviedo. Photo: Carlos Cunha, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
No matter how much you love the mountains or the beaches, no one can pass through Asturias without visiting Oviedo, the capital of the Asturian Principality. A historic city, Oviedo became the first capital of teh Asturian kingdom in the 8th century when the Christian rebels descended from the mountains of Covadonga and defeated the Moors here.
Today, more than 1,000 years later, the city still retains much of that medieval grandeur, and there’s an air of importance and refinement that permeates its streets.
If you want a “contemporary” tour of the city, start with a visit to Plaza del Fontán, enjoy some vermouth or cider among the locals, go shopping on Calle Uría, and end the day at the Campoamor Theater, one of the architectural jewels of northern Spain.
Or, if you prefer a historical tour, stroll through the casco antiguo - the old town of the city -, and then climb Mount Naranco, where in addition to stunning views, you can visit two medieval Asturian jewels: the churches of Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and treasures of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture.
While Oviedo is neither by the sea nor in the mountains, two of the hallmarks of an Asturias trip, it’s still a must-visit.
2. Gijón
Photo: Eduardo Diez Viñuela, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Gijón is the most populous, lively, and nocturnal city in Asturias. This makes a lot of sense if you consider the strong seafaring tradition here and all of the business that that industry has brought into the city. In every street in the city, especially in the historic Cimadevilla neighborhood, you can feel the salt air entering your lungs with each breath you take.
Situated right on the coast, Gijón has been an important port for centuries, and its fishing and seafaring traditions are still apparent everywhere you go. The benefit for you is that you can experience all of this without having to wake up before dawn and set out onto the sea, shivering in the cold.
Apart from the Cimadevilla neighborhood, the rest of your visit to Gijón should be centered around the sea, which is the lifeblood of the city. Take a stroll on the seaside promenade and go for a dip at San Lorenzo beach.
And as evening approaches nears, head out onto the Santa Catalina Headland and end your day watching the sun set from one of the most beautiful urban sculptures in the Iberian Peninsula: the Elogio del Horizonte, by the Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida.
3. Avilés
San Francisco street in Avilés. Photo: B25es, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Until recent years, no one would have recommended visiting Avilés when traveling to Asturias. A predominantly industrial and working-class city for much of its history, it fell into decline during the last decades of the 20th century as the local industries either died out or moved elsewhere.
However, as has happened with other cities around the world - Glasgow, Bilbao, and Hamburg are prime examples - Avilés has managed to convert that past and its industrial scars into a rather appealing package.
Today, nothing represents that transformation like the magnificent Oscar Niemeyer International Cultural Centre, which takes its name from the renowned Brazilian architect who designed it. Architecturally, this is a totally unique space that attracts thousands of people every year, and that perfectly reflects the unique personality of Avilés.
The structure itself is the reason most people visit, but the Center’s exhibits and shows are excellent as well.
4. Cudillero
Frequently named as one of the most beautiful towns in Spain, Cudillero is a lovely little fishing town that’s built on a series of steep cliffs overlooking the sea, with its colorful houses cascading down the slopes to a small harbor, which is still actively used by fishermen.
About 50 kilometers west of Gijón, the village is small and you probably won’t spend a lot of time here as there isn’t much to see (other than the spectacular setting), but it would be criminal not to at least make a quick stop here on your way through the region.
You can catch some exceptional views if you follow the “route of the viewpoints”, a little walk that will take you through town to a series of lookouts, some of which offer panoramic vistas of the town and surrounding coastline.
Right outside of town, El Silencio beach, a shell-shaped stretch of golden sand backed by a huge stone massif, is one of the most impressive beaches in Asturias.
5. Ribadesella
Photo: D.Rovchak, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Another coastal town, but this time almost on the border with Asturias, Ribadesella is the town where the Sella River empties into the Bay of Biscay, on the Cantabrian Sea.
Situated in a spectacular natural setting, this is a nice little city with a surprising number of impressive Renaissance palaces as well as more modernist villas built by wealthy families in the 19th and 20th centuries. The city has a calm and elegant air, its historic fisherman’s quarter is a nice place to go for a stroll, as is the marina, and there are ecxellent beaches right in town.
On the west side of the town (the newer part), you’ll find the Tito Bustillo cave, where prehistoric cave art has been discovered and which visitors can go check out.
6. The Holy Cave of Our Lady of Covadonga
The chapel and cave of Our Lady of Covadonga. Photo: Cardoso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
According to one of the many myths about the founding of Christian Spain, it was in a cave in Covadonga where where King Pelayo, the first king of the Asturians (and the ancestor of all future Spanish kings), took refuge from the Arabs as they pursued him and his armies through Asturias. He allegedly sought shelter in one of the caves, where he encountered a statue of the Virgin Mary and prayed to her for their victory.
His army then made its stand against the Arabs, supposedly defeating them and achieving the first victory in the Christian reconquest of Spain and securing the independence of the Kingdom of Asturias.
If you visit, you’ll find a small sanctuary nestled in the Asturian mountains, with a waterfall cascading below it down towards the Reinazo River. It’s a very beautiful setting. And whether Pelayo even existed or not, whether that encounter with the Virgin happened or not, the cave is a place where the feeling of history is palpable as soon as you set foot inside.
Nearby is the Santa Maria Basilica, which was built in the late 1700’s to honor this history (or legend).
7. Cangas de Onís - to sample “El cachopo de La Sifonería”
Photo: Francisco de Asís Alfaro Fernández, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
If you visit the Holy Cave of Our Lady of Covadonga, then you’ll already be right next door to village of Cangas de Onís, which is the perfect excuse to try one of the best-known and most controversial dishes in Asturias.
What dish is that? Cachopo, of course. A relatively recent invention, cachopo is a huge veal steak, breaded and stuffed with cheese and other ingredients like cured beef, ham, or chorizo, and then fried. The dish is hated by purists and traditionalists, but it has many admirers too and has gained tons of fame throughout Spain.
A local cider restaurant in Cangas de Onís, La Sifonería, is widely regarded as one of the best places in Asturias to try cachopo, and they also serve excellent sider, of course.
If you decide to try this dish (and you should!), my recommendation is that you do a lot of walking beforehand to build up your appetite, and that you go for another walk aferwards to work off the calories.
8. Silencio, Galpiyuri, and Penarronda beaches
El Silencio beach
Usually, the fame of having the best beaches in northern Iberia goes to Galicia, but it must be said that that Asturias needn’t envy anyone - it has more than its fair share of great beaches too. If you want a personal recommendation for a beach day, here are three: Gulpiyuri Beach on the eastern end side of the region, and El Silencio Beach and Penarronda Beach to the west.
Gulpiyuri is one of those lovely sandy havens that would be almost impossible to find if someone hadn’t told you about it. With a Mediterranean air and very little space, the beach is buried between rocks and dense vegetation and only around 30 people can fit on the beach at any given time. If you like secluded beaches, spending an afternoon here is one of the best things you can do.
However, if you prefer wild, wide beaches where you’re unlikely to see anyone else, then your choice should be Penarronda. Here at the border with Galicia, you’ll find fine sand, big waves, and wilderness.
A bit closer to the center of the region, El Silencio Beach is one of the most famous and most stunning in the region. A u-shaped sandy beach backed by an imposing massif, this one will leave you staring in awe.
9. Somiedo Natural Park
Lago del Valle. Photo: ALusitana, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
Somiedo Natural Park, in Southwestern Asturias, is one of the most spectacular natural areas in Asturias. Known for its steep peaks and the impressive mountain range that runs all through the park, it is headlined by the Valle del Lago and its lovely lake, which is reached through a 13 kilometer loop trail.
Throughout the park, which is also used as pasture for grazing livestock, you’ll find the traditional “teito de escoba” stone huts with thatched roofs, that still today serve as refuge for shepherds tending to their animals. There are around 500 of these structures in total.
As for wildlife, there are very few places in Spain and throughout Western Europe where you can see bears up close and in the wild, but this is one of them. Bear sightings are fairly common here, as these creatures have made the park one of their favorite homes in the Iberian peninsula.
It may not have the same level of fame as some of the other natural areas and parks in Asturias, but it’s still a gorgeous area. Being less well-known, it’s also less crowded, meaning that you can have the trails all to yourself at times.
10. Picos de Europa
The town of Sotres, in the Picos de Europa. Photo: Eagletusk, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
I just mentioned that Somiedo Park doesn’t have the fame of some other natural areas, so it only makes sense that I follow that up with the most famous place in all of Asturias: the Picos de Europa mountain range stands head and shoulders above everywhere else in this region and it is Asturias’ star attraction and quintessential park.
The Picos de Europa massif is one of the most interesting and picturesque on the entire European continent, in large part due to its proximity to the sea, which is quite rare for a mountain range this size.
Certain points of these mountains reach up to 2,500 meters high and yet stand no more than 15 kilometers from the Cantabrian coast. There are few other places in the world where you can be on the beach in the morning and hiking at 8,000 feet in the afternoon…
This is a hiking paradise, but you can also do tons of other outdoor activities here. The Naranjo de Bulmes peak is one of Spain's favorite climbing destinations, the Ruta del Cares is the most popular trekking route in Spain, and there is no more mythical bike climb than the one that leads up to the Lakes of Covadonga.
And if all you want is to relax among the mountains, towns like Sotres or Arenas de Cabrales offer everything you're looking for in a mountain getaway.
11. Luarca
Known as the “little white town on the green coast”, Luarca is a pretty fishing village about 90 kilometers west of Oviedo, wedged between the sea and the cliffs that rise up directly behind it.
With a river cutting the town in half, it has 7 or so bridges connecting the two sides of town, a nice old fisherman’s quarter, and lots of stately 19th century villas. It’s also known for its “chigres'“, traditional Asturian taverns where you can drink cider with locals.
12. El Entrego - for its mining tradition
Photo: Astur1, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
For a big part of the 19th and 20th centuries, Asturias was the main hub for mining in the Iberian Peninsula. This industry has “forged the hearts” of Asturians, creating a toughness and a unique personality and culture that is not seen in any other part of the country. Spaniards love talking about Asturians and they hold a unique place in popular culture.
Anytime someone in Spain thinks about mines or miners, they think of Asturias. You might say it’s the Spanish West Virginia in that respect.
Within the region, no place in the principality better displays this mining tradition than El Entrego, a town that houses the MUMI (Museum of Mining and Industry of Asturias). The museum and town are a must-visit for anyone who wants to get to know, up close, that modern history of Asturias that has been woven among caves, tunnels, peaks, and dynamite.
13. Taramundi and the Turía Valley
Photo: FranchoBeltrán, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
Isolated on the western border with Galicia and enclosed in the small valleys that cover the area opening up to the Eo River, is Taramundi, one of the villages that best embodies the image that most Spaniards have of Asturias.
Taramundi was one of the pioneers of eco and rural tourism in the Iberian peninsula, so if you’re looking for a chance to discover traditional Asturias, this is the place to do it. The town itself is lovely and the other hamlets and villages around it are charming as well, many with well preserved stone houses and cobblestone streets.
With a strong focus on local crafts, artisanship, and traditional ways of life, the entire Turía Valley has all kinds of workshops, museums, and open-air ethnographic complexes (like at Os Teixois, just outside of town). Knife-making and weaving are two of the main crafts, but all kinds of metalworking and even ceramics are also practiced here. If you head to the village of Pardiñas, be sure to check out the Knife Museum.
The Oscos Eo Biosphere Reserve also encompasses much of this area (and beyond), so you’ll find ample opportunities for hikes and scenic walks. The Eo river path in San Tirso de Abres and the Path of the Twelve Bridges in Vegadeo are two excellent ones. The northern route of the Camino de Santiago also passes through here.
If you want to disconnect from the modern world and spend your days among stone houses, rivers, magical forests, and villages frozen in time, come to Taramundi.
14. Lastres
Once a whaling village and a fortress that guarded against invaders, Lastres, on the eastern coast of Asturias, is routinely said to be one of Spain’s loveliest villages, and it’s one of the biggest tourist destinations in the region.
The town is built on steep slopes over the sea, and its houses wind their way up the hill, naviaged by meandering, narrow little streets. For one of the most famous (and most photographed) views in Asturias, head over to the San Roque viewpoint in the upper part of town.
This is still an active fishing town, so if you head down to the marina you can see all the daily activity, and if you’re here at the right time, catch the auction at the local fish market.
15. Llanes
Photo: Robot8A, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Considered one of the pearls of the Asturian coast (along with the town of Lastres), Llanes is one of the most famous towns in Asturias. The town and coastline of the greater municipality of the same name are known for their abundance of incredible beaches, mostly small and sandy and backed by vertical cliffs.
Llanes is a historic place, and it’s been an important town since the middle ages, evidenced by its medieval walls and 13th century tower, which are still largely intact today.
Moving into more modern times, there are many 19th century palaces, villas, and structures, built by family who made their fortunes in the Americas and then returned to the area. The old casino is especially impressive.
For a nice walk, the Paseo de San Pedro is a grass-lined path that runs between the cliffs the town is built on, leading down to the port. When here, also be sure to check out the Cubos de la Memoria art installation, a colorful collection of concrete blocks designed and painted by Agustín Ibarrola, a well-known Basque artist.
16. Cangas de Narcea
Photo: Carmenmoran, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Nestled in the most isolated part of Asturias and as far from the sea as you can get in the region, the town of Cangas de Narcea rarely appears in travel guides and magazines. But that’s not because it isn’t worth visiting - quite the opposite!
It was once a big mining town, and that legacy can still be seen today quite clearly in the city’s streets (you’ll quickly spot the “Monument to the Miner”). Despite not being a big city, the streets here are always lively, from morning to night, and the locals are friendly and welcoming, making it a very fun place to hang around.
You’ll also find an interesting mix of Medieval and Baroque architecture, and surprisingly, an impressive number of impressive palaces, again dating back to when the town was a prosperous mining center.
Outside of town, you’ll find many charming villages in the Cibea River Valley, the incredible Muniellos oak forest (the largest in Spain), the Parque Natural de las Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña e Ibias (a haven for hiking and bear sightings), and the Corias Monastery, among other places to check out.
Furthermore, if you enjoy good wine, here's a secret: Cangas de Narcea is the only wine-producing area in all of Asturias. Pretty villages, great nature, and excellent local wine - what could be better?
For more in-depth information on this area, check out the excellent guide at Turismo Asturias.
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Things to do in Asturias
1. Walk some of the northern route of the Camino de Santiago
In recent years, the Camino de Santiago, that network of routes crossing the Iberian Peninsula towards the city of Santiago de Compostela, has experienced a tremendous boom.
The main route, which runs through the Castilian Plateau, sees constant overcrowding for almost all months of the year. However, there are other routes that are more accessible and less traveled, one of which is the Northern Way, which crosses Asturias from east to west on its way to Galicia.
The Camino de Santiago del Norte was born centuries ago as a way for Christian pilgrims to avoid the Plateau, where Arab attacks were common. Today, it has become a wonderful route along the coast of the Cantabrian Sea. As tough as it is beautiful, doing one or two stages on your trip to Asturias is something you shouldn't miss if you like trekking.
2. Try “fabada”, Asturias’ most famous dish
The famous cachopo (described earlier in this article) is a recent invention, so if there's a traditional Asturian dish worth trying, it's the fabada, a hearty pork and bean stew. Here's a list of the best restaurants to try it at:
In Oviedo, you have two great options, one quite traditional, the other with a touch of haute cuisine: Casa Chema (traditional) and Casa Cabal (more modern and upscale). In Gijón, a classic you have a classic in any culinary guide: Casa Gerardo.
Near the beaches of Llanes, in the east of the Principality, lies another classic: Casa Marcial, in Parres. And finally, in Mieres, at the gateway to the mountains, perhaps my favorite temple dedicated to fabada: La Consistorial.
3. Sample some of the world-famous Cabrales cheeses
If there's an Asturian food more renowned and internationally recognized than fabada, it's not a dish, but is rather the cheese from the Cabrales area, a mountainous region located amidst the Picos de Europa.
Cabrales cheese is a blue cheese made from sheep, cow, and goat’s milk, and it’s a very strong, pungent cheese that delights enthusiasts but may not be a favorite of more casual fans.
If you're one of those cheese fanatics though, you know what to do: head to Arenas de Cabrales and the surrounding are and ask the locals where you can find the best cheese.
4. Hike the famous Ruta del Cares trail
Since we're in the area of the Picos de Europa and Cabrales cheese, whether you're a mountain fan or not, here's a plan you must do: hike the Ruta del Cares trail. Probably the best-known trekking route in the Iberian Peninsula, this is a 22 kilometers trail (with little elevation gain, luckily) through the cliffs, gorges, and mountain passes that dot this part of the Picos de Europa.
Be careful: although it's a very popular route, the path along the Cares is not for everyone. It requires some physical preparation, appropriate equipment, and the necessary supplies for a six-hour mountain hike —drinks, food, warm clothing. But if you have all that, this is a unique experience that you can't miss on your visit to Asturias.
5. Canoe down the Sella River
Here we have another active outdoor activity, but that’s what Asturias is all about: with so much nature around, how can you not take full advantage of it?
If there’s any one outdoor activity here that perfectly combines great nature with a festive atmosphere, it’s the international canoeing event called the “Descent of the Sella River”. The Sella is one of the most important rivers of the Principality and, during the first weekend of August, it is the host for a canoeing competition that dates back almost 100 years, where competitors race for 20 kilometers, traveling between the towns of Arriondas and Ribadesella.
Of course, you don't have to be a professional canoeist to take part: thousands of people join in the event, paddling down the river in the competitors’ wake. The atmosphere is joyous and festive, with everyone drinking cider and having a blast. It’s a true party, and is always one of the biggest of the year in Asturias.
Now, if you don’t happen to be here in early August, don’t despair! You can canoe, raft, or kayak down the river whenever you want, as there are dozens of companies in the area that rent out gear and organize tours.
6. Visit the Niemeyer Center
I mentioned the Niemeyer Center earlier when talking about the city of Avilés, but this art and cultural center deserves a second mention. This building, more than any other, drove the industrial reconversion of Avilés and really helped lift the city out of decline.
No matter when you visit, there is always something going on here: live music, theater shows, art exhibits, talks, and other artistic and cultural events of all kinds.
7. Travel through time, visiting the Romanesque and Gothic masterpieces of Asturias
With so many centuries of history, and having played a pivotal role in Spain’s Reconquista, Asturias has a wealth of beautiful religious architecture spanning different eras and styles.
If you want to take a trip back through time exploring the finest Romanesque and Gothic structures in Asturias, here’s what I’d suggest: Sart in Oviedo, which is a medieval masterpiece of a city. While there, climb up Mount Naranco and visit two of the finest pre-Romanesque churches in Asturias: Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo.
From there, head south along the road that eventually leads to Madrid, until you reach the Church of Santa Cristina de Lena, another gem from the time when Asturias was the central point of resistance against the Arab invasion of the Iberian Peninsula.
And finally, make your way to the border with Castilla y Leon, to the Colegiata de Santa Maria Church in Arbás del Puerto, which is an an old pilgrims' hospital.
8. Get lost in the remote villages of western Asturias
Near the border with Galicia, villages like Luarca, Navia, Tapia de Casariego, Castropol, and Vegadeo still retain that isolated, end-of-the-world feel that increases as you go further west, until you actually reach the end of the world in Galicia.
If Asturias is known for wild nature, western Asturias is even wilder, and it’s here that the Cantabrian Sea and the mountains almost fuse together, so close are they to one another. Here, the nature is less hospitable but more magical, just like in the neighboring Galician territory. Even the local language spoken here is much more similar to that of Galicia (Gallego).
As Nacho Vegas says - one of Asturias’ most famous singer-songwriters - “there is no wilder part of Asturias than this western coast”. And if he says it, a man who left Gijón behind to move here, it's because he knows what he's talking about.
9. Attend an Asturian romería - a pilgrimage procession
But Nacho Vegas is no longer the most famous singer in Asturias. That privilege now belongs to a much younger, more groundbreaking, and more controversial singer: Rodrigo Cuevas, the closest thing to a Freddie Mercury in the Principality. With music that blends the Celtic tradition of village festivals with electronic music, Rodrigo Cuevas is a reference in the Spanish cultural world.
And do you know what plan Rodrigo Cuevas would recommend to you? He’d say that you must attend a traditional Asturian romería. These are pilgrimages, local religious processions that make their way out to a church or holy site of some kind, often in little villages.
Very much a celebration, along the way you’ll drink cider, dance, meet people, and of course, listen to the latest Rodrigo Cuevas album.
10. Summit the high pass of the Lakes of Covadonga by bicycle
And finally, let's finish up with another great outdoor activity - this time on two wheels. I haven’t mentioned this up to this point, but Asturias is also one of the premier cycling regions in the Iberian peninsula, so a bike ride is an absolute must.
There are tons of great routes here, mostly on quiet country roads, but the most impressive of all of them is the ride to the Lakes of Covadonga pass. This is Spain’s most famous cycling climb and it’s also a part of the Vuelta a España race.
Stretching for about 14 kilometers, it’s a very challenging uphill climb, but is not so intimidating that you shouldn’t attempt it. Car traffic is often banned from the route in July and August (when its busiest with cyclists), but traffic is often light at other times of year anyways.
The challenge is well worth it, as the scenery along the way is spectacular. Passing through the Picos de Europa park, this is one of the most beautiful rides you will ever do, and the lakes at the end are gorgeous.
And for those of you who are really daring, there’s an even more extreme option: the Angliru Pass. I’ll let you look it up.
My suggested 7-day Asturias itinerary
Here's what, for me, is the perfect plan for a week in Asturias.
Day 1: Arrive into Oviedo and immediately set off to explore the city center. Have lunch somewhere in the lovely Plaza del Fontán square, and then set out for a climb up Mount Naranco. Head back down into the city to get lost in its medieval streets, making sure to pop into many of the lovely old churches.
Day 2: Take the train to Gijón, and head into the city center as soon as you arrive. Here, have lunch in the Cimadevilla neighborhood (the most historic part of the city), then stop by the underground Roman Baths, and explore the Catalina Headland.
Later in the afternoon, spend some time lounging on the excellent San Lorenzo beach, and end the day with a stroll along the lovely seaside promenade.
Day 3: Travel to Avilés, which has really had a resurgence in recent years. The historic center is quite nice, with tons of brightly painted houses and structures standing alongside more muted, classical buildings.
Take your time strolling through the narrow streets, admiring the arcades, and people watching in the many bright, sunny squares. Plaza de España is the prettiest square in the city, surrounded by lovely architecture.
After touring the center, make your way across the river estuary in the direction of the Centro Niemeyer, which is a fantastic arts center. An incredible structure, the exhibits and shows here are quite good and well worth checking out for a few hours.
Day 4: Rent a car and drive out to the little village of Cangas de Onís. Here, you can visit the Sanctuary of the Virgin of Covadonga, a cave where Asturias’ first king, Pelayo, is said to have encountered the Virgin Mary. Whether the story is true or not, the cave is in a lovely natural setting.
Afterwards, have dinner at La Sifonería, a cider house that is famous for making “cachopo”.
Day 5: Hike the 22km Ruta del Cares in the Picos de Europa. This is one of the most popular and most spectacular hiking routes in Spain, so be prepared for 6 hours of incredible scenery as you hike along narrow paths, gorges, cliffs, and high mountain passes.
In the late afternoon, pay a visit to a local dairy farm, where you can learn about the cheesemaking process and try Cabrales cheese.
Day 6: Leave the mountains behind and spend the day visiting Lastres and Llanes, the two pearls of the Asturian coast. Llanes is a sizeable town of about 15,000, whereas Lastres is a little fishing village with less than 1,000 residents.
There are no real sights for me to tell you about in either town, and that’s sort of the point: the pleasure of a visit to them is about enjoying being on the sea, feeling Asturias’ maritime atmosphere, and cruising out along the coast to nearby beaches and coves.
Day 7: On your final day in Asturias, don’t just look at the coast, get out into it! Head to Galpiyuri beach, one of the best in Asturias, and spend your final day lounging on the beach, enjoying the sun, the surf, and the sand. There’s no better way to bid farewell to Asturias.
Luis Fernández
Spain Expert based in Gijón
¡Hola y buenos días! 👋
Hi, I'm Luis, and I've been a travel consultant here in Spain for the last 11 years. If you're looking for some local advice on your trip, I'd love to help!
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