A Local’s Guide to Visiting Chile’s Lake District
Lying about 400 miles south of Santiago, the capital of Chile, and in the foothills of the Andes mountains is the storied Lake District, one of the most beautiful regions in all of Chile.
Anyone planning a trip to Chile will doubtless have already seen countless photos of the lakes, rivers, and soaring snow-capped volcanic peaks that this region is known for.
While countries’ tourism departments, instagrammers, and bloggers often oversell the places they promote, this is not the case for the Lake District. A massive geographic area comprising three regions, this is somewhere truly special.
Much more than just the lakes that the district is named for, traveling through this part of southern Chile will take you from the Mapuche heartland to modern cities, Germanesque towns, island archipelagos, volcanoes, massive parks, and deep, ancient forests.
A haven for adventure lovers, you can trek among monkey-puzzle trees or ancient temperate rainforests, relax under the sun by beautiful lakes, experience the thrill of rafting through river rapids, climb volcanoes, and discover the rich and mixed heritage of Mapuche, Spanish, and German cultures that have merged here for centuries.
Simply put, the Lake District should be on an and every Chile itinerary.
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A brief introduction to the Lake District
As is common in Chile, owing to the country’s long but narrow shape, you can often move in the same day from the ocean to the Andes mountains. This is especially true in the Lake District, where you can explore wild coastlines in the morning, and then head into the mountains, forests, and volcanoes later in the day.
True to its name, this area is filled with lakes, rivers, and fjords, many of which can be explored through rafting, kayaking, or scenic boat rides, all with a backdrop of snowcapped volcanos.
The region also boasts many protected natural areas that conserve araucaria forests and ancient temperate rainforests, and provide great opportunities for trekking among beautiful landscapes.
The northern part of the district, in the Araucanía Region, is located in the heartland of the indigenous Mapuche people. Contemporaries of the Incas, the Mapuche people halted that great empire’s southward expansion just a bit to the north of this region, and it’s here that you can still find a few communities who maintain their traditions and share them with tourists.
This is one of the few places in Chile where you can see forests of the native and endangered monkey puzzle tree, called pehuen in the local indigenous language (Mapudungun) or araucaria in Spanish. Its seeds, known as piñones, are a significant ingredient in the regular diet of the Mapuche peoples.
Heading south, the Los Ríos Region of the district is famous for its rivers that surround the city of Valdivia, which even has fluvial taxis and a floating market. Heading south from here, you’ll find remnant patches of the ancient Valdivian temperate rainforest that survived the world’s greatest earthquake in 1960. Some of this forest is conserved through public or private protected areas, and you can visit them here and also on Chiloé Island.
Traveling from Valdivia to Puerto Varas (the tourism hub of the southern Lake District), you will see the influence of the German settlers that came to the area in the mid-1800’s and developed dairy and sausage industries here. Invited by the government of Chile to claim this territory for the country, they were given land and some money to develop it.
That’s why you’ll find many towns with German names and cuisine. The kuchen – a type of pie – is a typical dessert throughout southern Chile and has been fully incorporated into our national menu.
As you can see, the Lake District has a lot to offer, much more than “just” lakes. During a visit here, you’ll be treated to ancient forests, volcanoes and mountains, gorgeous lakes and rivers, islands and coastline, indigenous and German culture, and charming cities and towns unlike anywhere else in Chile. Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it?
Where is the Lake District?
Chile’s famous Lake District, located in the mid-south of the country, encompasses 3 of the country’s 16 administrative regions. In Temuco, at its northern tip, the region is about 420 miles south of Santiago, while at its southern border near Puerto Montt, it lies about 640 miles away.
In the north of the Lake District is the Araucanía Region, whose capital city is Temuco. Heading south, you reach the Los Ríos Region, with Valdivia as its capital. Finally, in the far south of the district is the Los Lagos Region, whose capital city is Puerto Montt.
The district also includes the Chiloé archipelago, with over 30 islands, the largest of which is the one from which is takes its name (Chiloé). It’s located approximately 700 miles south of Santiago and 60 miles south of Puerto Montt.
How to get here
There are two reasonable ways to get to the Lake District: plane or bus. If you’re coming from Santiago or anywhere north of there, the quickest and easiest way to get here is almost always to fly, but overnight buses are common as well, and they are efficient and comfortable.
Arriving by plane
All three of Chile’s domestic airlines (LATAM, Sky Airlines, and Jet Smart) have regular daily flights from Santiago to the Lake District’s 3 regional capitals - Temuco, Valdivia, and Puerto Montt. Two additional cities, Osorno and Castro are also served by direct flights.
Be aware that Castro is located on the island of Chiloé and flights there are only available during January, February, and March.
Whichever airport in the region you fly into, the flight from Santiago will take around 1.5 to 2 hours.
Keep in mind that the Lake District is quite large, so where you fly into to start your trip and out of at the end of it is quite important. Travel times from Temuco, in the north, to Puerto Montt, in the south, for instance, are about 5 hours. So, plan your itinerary out and then choose your arrival and departure airports accordingly.
Arriving by bus
Buses are safe, reliable, and reasonably comfortable in Chile and they are among the most popular options for long-distance travel.
For long bus rides, you’ll see that companies offer semi-cama (half-way reclining seat) and cama (fully reclining seat) options, which are more expensive than a traditional seat, but also make the journey far more comfrotable.
There are regular overnight buses from Santiago to the hubs of Temuco and Puerto Montt, and even Castro, on the island of Chiloé. The journeys take about 10, 12, and 16 hours, respectively.
In general, you can find regular daily buses to almost any city in the country, and that of course includes the main cities in the Lake District, so Temuco and Puerto Montt are not your only options.
You can check timetables and rates on the following websites, which feature both Spanish and English dashboards: https://kupos.cl/en and https://www.recorrido.cl/en
When to visit
The best time to visit the Lake District is most definitely the summer, which runs from December to March. The main reason for this recommendation is that this is the dry season, which means you have the best chance for clear skies and good overall weather.
Additionally, this is the high season for tourism, so all tourist services and attractions are open and fully operational. This is when the region is busiest, but being a massive area with a wealth of natural attractions, it’s rarely unpleasantly crowded anywhere you go.
Finally, because Chile applies daylight savings time, the summer season has by far the longest days of the year and the sun doesn’t set until after 9:00 PM, giving you tons of time to take advantage of the good weather.
Summer (December to March)
As mentioned above, this is high season in the Lake District, and it’s the period with the lowest rainfall, the highest temperatures, and the longest daylight hours. Daily temperatures range between 8° C (46.4° F) to 24° C (75.2° F), so it’s often very pleasant during the day, and then a bit chilly at night.
If you want to hike, take boat trips, go rafting, kayaking, or do anything else outdoors, summer is really the perfect time to visit.
Autumn (March to June)
This is considered mid-season (media estación) in Chile, and while the weather is still pretty nice, it becomes a bit more unpredictable during this time. People usually dress in layers and and you should always have a rain jacket, as you might start off with a sunny morning and then run into a raging thunderstorm in the afternoon.
The landscapes are gorgeous during the fall, as the foliage explodes into lovely hues of red, orange, yellow, and brown. If you’re after inspiring scenery, the fall is a tough season to top.
Daily temperatures range between 4° C (39.2° F) to 22° C (71.6° F).
Winter (June to September)
This is the coldest season and most attractions are closed throughout the winter, except for those related to skiing. There are also comparatively few daylight hours, with the sun setting at approximately 6:30 p.m. Daily temperatures range between 4° C (39.2° F) to 14° C (57.2° F).
If you’re coming for a ski trip, this is obviously the best time to visit, but other than that, most travelers should choose a different period.
Spring (September to December)
Like Autumn, Spring is also considered mid-season (media estación) in Chile. After the winter, it can be a nice time of year to visit, as landscapes become green and start to spring into life, with the flora in bloom all around you.
The days become sunnier and the temperatures begin to increase, inspiring everyone (locals and visitors alike) to get outside and enjoy nature. Daily temperatures range from 5° C (41° F) to 22° C (71.6° F).
You’ll likely still have your fair share of rain during this period, and hiking trails may be muddy or still snowed over, so be aware that you aren’t guaranteed full access everywhere.
How long to spend
The Lake District covers a massive land area and travel times between destinations can be significant, so if you want to see a decent portion of this area, you need to set aside anywhere from 5 to 7 days.
With a week or a bit less, you’ll have enough time to explore some of the main attractions in each of the three regions that form the Lake District. You can’t get everywhere, but you’ll be able to see the highlights and will have enough time in each of them to actually enjoy yourself.
Here’s the itinerary I’d suggest if you have anywhere from 5 days to a 1 week:
Day 1: Fly from Santiago to Temuco and spend the day exploring the city.
Day 2: Set off on a full-day tour of Conguillío National Park.
Day 3: Drive from Temuco to the coastal city of Valdivia (2.5 hours), stopping off at Loncoche and Lanco along the way, to experience the rural tourism initiatives run by local indigenous communities. On arrival in Valdivia, visit the floating market and then tour the city’s other sights.
Day 4: Get an early start and make another 2.5-hour drive south toward Lake Llanquihue and Puerto Varas. Along the way, stop off in the town of Frutillar to visit its museum and check out the Teatro del Lago (theater by the lake).
Afterwards, continue on to Puerto Varas, which sits just on the shores of the lake. Spend the rest of the day exploring the town and hanging out.
Day 5: Take a full-day tour of the nearby Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park.
Day 6: Set off to the island of Chiloé, catching the ferry in the town of Pargua. On the island, take a boat trip to Puñihuil Natural Monument to see the penguin colonies, visit the town of Ancud to learn about local legends and mythology, tour Castro to see the palafitos (stilt houses) and World Heritage churches, and visit the town of Dalcahue to see its lively market. Overnight on the island in the town of Castro.
Day 7: Take the first ferry back to the mainland and make the 1-hour drive to the Puerto Montt airport, where you’ll catch your flight back to Santiago.
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Where to stay - best bases
Temuco
Temuco is a prominent city with approximately 300,000 people. It’s the capital of the Araucanía Region and the gateway to the Mapuche heartland as well as to Conguillío National Park. The city has an active university life and all kinds of financial and logistics services.
I recommend staying one or two nights here, depending on how you decide to organize your visit to Conguillío National Park. You’ll find accommodations for any budget, including hostels, serviced apartments, and five-star hotels. There is also a four-star hotel belonging to the casino company.
Temuco is located approximately 430 miles south of Santiago, and there are 3 daily flights connecting the two cities.
Conguillío National Park
A public protected area covering over 60,000 hectares, Conguillío National Park is dominated by the imposing Llaima volcano, one of Chile's most active, and Conguillío Lake. With ancient araucaria forests, clear rivers, and an impressive variety of wildlife - including pudú deer and Andean condors -, this park is somewhere you absolutely must visit when in the region.
It offers hiking trails, wildlife watching opportunities (especially for birders), and incredible vistas. There are an assortment of trails ranging in difficulty, and some will take you around the lake, while others pass through ancient forests.
I recommend that you stay here one night if you want to explore at a more relaxed pace. There are 11 cabins and over 90 camping sites divided into two sectors, in addition to a small café and a minimarket (operational from December to March).
Valdivia
Valdivia is a small city of nearly 180,000 people, located 100 miles southwest of Temuco. It’s the capital of the Los Ríos Region and the gateway to some of the world’s oldest forests.
While off the beaten path, this is somewhere that rarely features in foreign visitors’ itineraries. It’s relatively popular with Chilean tourists though, so you’ll still find all kinds of accommodations and some tourism related services.
From Valdivia, you can visit public and private protected areas such as Carlos Anwandter Nature Sanctuary, which conserves wetlands formed in the Cruces River after the 1960 earthquake; Alerce Andino National Park, which protects a portion of the ancient Valdivian Temperate Forests; and Oncol Park, created by a local timber company to protect a patch of this same forest within the city and provide a green space for the community to enjoy.
Puerto Varas
This city on the banks of Lake Llanquihue, about 120 miles southeast of Temuco, has a population of 50,000 and is a main tourism hub in the Los Lagos Region.
From here, you can organize day trips to surrounding attractions such as the town of Frutillar, Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park, and even the Chiloé Archipelago.
I recommend staying one or two nights in Puerto Varas. You’ll find accommodations for any budget, including hostels, serviced apartments, and five-star hotels, one of them belonging to the casino company.
Puerto Montt
Puerto Montt makes for a very solid logistical base for trips through the Lake District. In the south of the region, it’s a bigger city (around 200,000 inhabitants) and has one of the largest airport in the area, so you can fly here directly from Santiago.
It’s also close to Puerto Varas and Chiloé, making day trips from here very easy. There are all kinds of accommodations available, at any price point, so you have a wide selection if you choose to stay in the city.
Castro (on Chiloé island)
Located on the eastern shore of Chiloé, Castro is one of the two bigger cities on the island (along with Ancud, to the north). With a population of approximately 50,000 you’ll find all types of accommodation, services, and tourist infrastructure here. Castro also has its own airport, which offers direct flights to/from Santiago from December to February.
Castro is a pleasant enough town, it has a Unesco Heritage Site church, and boasts many of the iconic colorful palafitos (stilt houses). This is the starting point for many tours throughout the island, and its where most tour operators are based out of.
I recommend staying one or two nights in Castro to really get to enjoy the surrounding attractions.
Transportation and getting around
Renting a car
Car rental companies are everywhere in Chile, and you can rent a car at any of the airports within the Lakes District and return it at a different airport (there will likely be a one-way drop-off fee though).
For example, you can even rent in Santiago and return the car in Puerto Montt. All the big international companies have offices in Chile, but there are also local tour operators. You can always book directly, but I typically use Discover Cars, an online car rental aggregator that lists all the companies and their prices.
Roads are usually in very good condition throughout Chile, and the Lake District is no exception. For access to some more remote areas of the parks here, you will might want to have a 4x4 vehicle, but it’s usually not necessary.
Considering the large size of the Lake District and that many of its attractions are natural areas or more remote towns, I personally recommend renting a car rather than relying on public buses or tour operators. Having a car will give you the freedom to move at your own pace unconstrained by bus schedules or tour operator’s itineraries.
There are also typically lots of interesting attractions and beautiful scenery along any route you may be taking, so if you’ve got a rental car you can make a stop or detour any time you want and see a lot more of the region.
Local public transportation
Formal buses fairly regularly traverse the routes between major cities, towns, and attractions throughout the Lake District, and they are complemented by a network of minibuses that typically originate in the regional capitals and then depart for smaller or more remote locations throughout the surrounding area.
These minibuses can’t be booked in advance, but they usually have regular departures every 15 or 30 minutes. They only take cash and the fares are rarely more than $3 USD. The minibuses are usually blue or light blue, an you just have to ask about the routes and timetables at the corresponding counter/office in the local bus station.
Most of the cities and towns in the Lake District can be explored on foot, but in bigger cities or for longer distances, the easiest way to move about is by colectivos, shared taxis.
While there are regular taxis, they aren’t especially common and often need to be called at least half an hour in advance. For that reason, most locals rely on the colectivos. These shared taxis have fixed rates and routes from the downtown area in any given city to its other neighborhoods. These are black sedan cars, mostly older models, with a sign on top of their roofs displaying their route number and the main stops.
There are no maps of their routes, but if you ask any local how to get to a prominent place in a colectivo, they will tell you which number to take and where is the closest stop.
If you see the one you need, you’ll need to flag it down. Colectivos receive passengers until they are full (maximum 4 passengers), and people can hop on and off anywhere along the route. Each time you use the route, you have to pay again.
You always have to pay the full ticket, regardless of where you’re going. Fares can vary between colectivo lines, depending on various factors, such as their route and time of day. Nevertheless, the usual rate is $500 Chilean Pesos (CLP), approximately USD $0.60 cents.
Taking the ferry to Chiloé
If you plan to visit the Chiloé archipelago, you will need to take the public ferry from the mainland town of Pargua.
The ferry ride lasts approximately 35 minutes, and the vessels offer different rates depending on what kind of vehicle you’re traveling in (you can bring the car on board with you). Passengers crossing without a vehicle are exempt from payment.
Two companies offer the crossing, both of them with three or four available ships and departures every 30 or 40 minutes.
If you stay in Chiloé for an extended period and want to visit some of the smaller islands in the Archipelago, you will need to take local ferries. The main ferry lines servicing these routes depart from Dalcahue and Quellón.
Best places to visit
1. Temuco
This city is the gateway to the indigenous Mapuche heartland. Visit the main square of the city, Plaza Anibal Pinto, and the municipal market, with its handicraft fair and food stalls, where you can have lunch enjoying local dishes.
Take a 20-minute walk to Cerro Ñielol, which you can hike up to observe the area’s native vegetation, flowers, and birds. After 30 minutes, you will reach the top of the hill and have great views of the city. Cerro Ñielol Natural Monument is a public protected area.
In addition to the lookout and trails, there is an environmental center and a picnic area. Entrance tickets cost approximately US $5.00 and must be bought ahead of time and online through the dedicated website.
2. Conguillío National Park
Conguillío Lake with Llaima volcano behind it. Photo by Mariomxel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Located 75 miles east of Temuco, Conguillío National Park is known for its 6-hour trek among monkey puzzle trees, lakes, and waterfalls. Highlights include the Truful-Truful Falls, Laguna Arcoíris (Rainbow) Lagoon, Playa Linda (Beautiful Beach) along the shore of Lake Conguillío, the Sierra Nevada Mountain, and the Llaima Volcano.
There are no direct buses to the park, and getting there is very tricky because not all roads are paved. So, you can go on your own in a 4x4 vehicle or hire transfers or a full-day tour (10 hours) with a local company, which I highly recommend, since they know the area well.
The park is run by CONAF (the National Forestry Corporation, a governmental agency) and a private operator that manages all services in the protected area. They have camping sites and cabins. Book accommodations in advance through their official website, since demand is usually high.
Entrance tickets to the park cost approximately $15 UASD and must be bought ahead of time and online through the dedicated website.
3. Lake Villarrica
Lake Villarica. Photo: FranciscoBarreraMartínez, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
About a 2-hour drive east from Temuco is Lake Villarrica, one of the favorite summertime destinations for Chileans. The lake was created thousands of years ago, as a result of the damming of a terminal moraine from the last glaciation, and it is mainly fed by the waters of the Pucón, Trancura, and Menetue rivers. It covers approximately 70 square miles and has an average depth of almost 600 feet.
The beautiful Aillaquillen island lies almost at the center of the lake, almost 4 miles from the pier on General Korner Street in the town of Villarrica. With an area of approximately 12 acres of forests and beaches, the island is a great place to camp and practice activities such as ziplining, hiking, kayaking, and snorkeling.
Several local tour operators offer different ways to reach the island, including a ferry, zodiac boats, motorboats, and kayaks. It will take you between two to four hours to get to the island on a kayak, depending on your rowing speed.
The city of Villarica, located on the western shore of the lake, has a population of just over 60,000 people and is where most local tour operators are based out of. Here, you can hire equipment to enjoy recreational fishing and a broad variety of water sports, or book excursions to nearby attractions, including the city’s lively urban wetlands and the nearby Mapuche communities.
The Leandro Penchulef Museum, run by the Catholic University of Chile, houses over 450 pieces showcasing the Mapuche heritage through its basketry, silverware, ceramics, leather, lithic, and textile collections. For more information, you can check their website.
4. Pucón and Villarrica National Park
Villarica National Park in the fall. Photo: Natalia Reyes Escobar, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Lying on the eastern shore of Lake Villarrica, the town of Pucón (population 30,000) is the absolute hub for adventure tourism in the northern part of the Lake District.
Pucón is famous for being the gateway to a series of hot springs along the Liucura, Trancura, and Palguín rivers, as well as to Villarrica National Park. The park, a public protected area, encompasses nearly 156,000 acres of native temperate rainforests teeming with wildlife, several small lakes, and three volcanos: Lanín (12,388 ft), Quetrupillán (7,742 ft), and Villarrica (9,340 ft).
The stunning Villarrica volcano, with its snow-capped peak, attracts many domestic and foreign visitors who come here to ski down its perfect slopes during the winter or climb it during the summer (lots of tour operators offer this excursion).
Keep in mind, however, that this is the most active volcano in Chile and for over a decade has been officially classified as the one posing the greatest risk to surrounding populations in case of an eruption. Therefore, before planning your trip to Pucón, I suggest checking the volcano’s latest activity on the Smithsonian Institution’s Global Volcanism Program.
Entrance tickets to the park must be bought online at least 24 hours earlier through the dedicated website. Tickets cost approximately $10 USD.
Tons of tour operators are based in Pucón, so you will be able to book and organize all sorts of excursions from here (hikes, kayaking and rafting trips, volcano climbs, etc.).
And while probably not relevant to your trip, I think it’s a fun fact to mention that since 2001, in January every year Pucón holds the Half Ironman or Ironman 70.3 Pucón, which is often considered the most beautiful race in the world. It is part of the World Triathlon Corporation circuit and consists of three courses: the swim (1.2 mi) in Lake Villarrica from Pucón’s Playa Grande, the bike (56 mi) on the international road to Argentina up to Ruka Ñanco with one turn, and the three-loop run (13.1 mi) in town and on the Peninsula, covering hilly and flat terrain.
5. Loncoche and Lanco
A horse rodeo in Loncoche. Photo: Mariangeles, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
These two small cities are located along Route 5, also known as the Pan-American highway, approximately 50 and 60 miles south of Temuco, respectively. Both towns are along the route to the beautiful city of Valdivia, and you should absolutely make stops at them.
In this area, you’ll find the Lan-ko Fücha Mapuche Route, a rural tourism initiative run by Mapuche families. This group of six small enterprises offers different activities to experience the local mix of Mapuche and countryside cultures.
They have a family farm where you can interact with the animals and practice fly fishing, a cheese factory, a handicraft store with products made from wood and wool, and a camping and picnic area where you can try typical foods.
You need to book ahead of time if you want to enjoy any of these services. To do so, you can call the following phone numbers: +56961724890 or +56974048594. Alternatively, you can write to their email: mariapincheira105@gmail.com Their website is: https://lankofucha.wixsite.com/lan-ko-fucha
5. Valdivia
Photo: Vicpablo11, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Located approximately 100 miles south of Temuco, Valdivia is where many Chileans dream of living, but it’s still very much an off-the-beaten path destination for foreign tourists. This small but lively city is full of history, culture, university life, and beautiful surroundings.
Its floating market is the modern representation of old traditions, when fishermen and farmers would meet on the riverside to exchange products. Another trademark of the city, due to the German influence here, is its beer production. With dozens of artisan breweries, some of Chile’s best beers are produced here and there is a very broad variety to choose from. You can enjoy tastings at some of them.
Valdivia is also famous because in 1960 the world’s most powerful earthquake - with an intensity of 9.5 on the Richter Scale - and several tsunamis hit the area, permanently modifying its geography. As a result, new environments were created such as the wetlands of Río Cruces (Crosses River).
This area is also known for holding some of the last remnants of the ancient Valdivian Rainforests, which survived the last Ice Age.
6. Osorno and Puyehue National Park
Lake Constance in Puyehue National Park. Photo: Natalia Reyes Escobar, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
With a population of 175,000 people, Osorno is one of the main cities in the Los Lagos Region of the Lake District and the gateway to Puyehue National Park. It is located approximately 70 miles south of Valdivia and has an airport operating daily flights to and from Santiago, as well as regular bus services to several destinations in Chile and Argentina.
Traveling roughly 30 mi east of Osorno on route CH-215, you will reach the quaint town of Entre Lagos and beautiful Lake Puyehue, which encompasses a series of small islands, the largest of which is Isla Fresia.
From Entre Lagos, continue another 20 miles along the same international road and you will reach the Aguas Calientes sector of Puyehue National Park. This public protected area encompasses almost 265,000 acres of native evergreen rainforest, shrublands, and wetlands locally called mallines. It also harbors the Gol - Gol and Chanleufú glacial valleys, as well as the Caulle volcanic range and two volcanos, Casablanca (6,528 ft) and Puyehue (7,335 ft).
The park is divided into three sectors: Aguas Calientes, Anticura, and Antillanca, where you can find interpretive and universally accessible trails that lead to waterfalls and lookouts. Each sector boasts its own main attraction.
Termas de Aguas Calientes is a hot spring resort in the first sector, while Anticura provides lodging, food, and excursions in the second sector. Antillanca Ski Center, in the third sector, provides lodging and equipment for skiing during the winter and trekking excursions during the summer.
Entrance to the park is free of charge because it comprises part of the international road that connects with Bariloche, in Argentina. Paso Cardenal Samoré is one of the most beautiful and relaxing border crossings in the Andes.
7. Frutillar
Lake Llanquihue, seen from the pier at Frutillar
Frutillar is a beautiful city on the shore of Lake Llanquihue, approximately 100 miles southeast of Valdivia. It’s organized into lower and upper Frutillar, depending on the proximity to the lake. Lower Frutillar was developed by some of the first German settlers during the mid-1800s. Explore the German Colonial Museum of Frutillar to learn more about this period.
The main activities in Frutillar are linked to the area’s history and culture. On different squares, you’ll find, for example, a giant chess board where you can play for free. Another great public space is the Music Square, where You’ll find percussion instruments and a harp that you can also play for free at leisure.
Frutillar is also known as the ‘city of music’ because it has held the famous Semanas Musicales (Musical Weeks) at the end of January every year since 1968. This has positioned the city as a beacon for classical music. You can find more information here.
A related landmark, the Teatro del Lago (Theater by the Lake), is one of Chile’s main stages for the performing arts. It was built in 2010 as a result of a campaign led by the same people who organized the first Musical Weeks. It is located on the site of the city's oldest hotel, which was destroyed by a fire in 1996. You can book tours in English through their website.
8. Puerto Varas
Only about 15 miles away from Frutillar, and also along the shore of Lake Llanquihue, Puerto Varas is a lovely city founded by German settlers. You can admire their heritage in the city’s architecture and cuisine.
Explore the downtown area to discover local farm products at Galpón Pío Nono market, and find unique souvenirs made from wood at the handicraft market.
Try some kuchen and other pastries at one of the many cafés in the city.
Then visit the hilltop Parroquia del Sagrado Corazón (Sacred Heart Parish), a large red and white wooden buliding dating from 1918 that overlooks the city.
If you have more time, take a short trip to Cerro Philippi (Philippi Hill), one of the city’s main landmarks. It rises to 90 meters and has a few pleasant hiking trails. You’ll get beautiful views of the city and the lake from the top.
9. Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park
Petrohué watefall, with the Osorno Volcano rising up behind. Photo:
I, Rlohaus, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
Todos Los Santos Lake. within the park. Photo: Wulf Klohn, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park is Chile’s oldest public park and it’s a fantastic place to enjoy different kinds of activities. 40 miles northeast of Puerto Varas and 10 miles from the town of La Ensenada, it’s also very accessible.
There are several trails that allow you to enjoy the ancient Valdivian Temperate Rainforest that you’ll find here. Additionally, you can engage in a variety of adventure tourism experiences, such as rafting down the rapids of the Petrohué River, sailing the tranquil waters of Lake Todos Los Santos, climbing to the top of the Osorno Volcano, and skiing its slopes (during the winter).
Several tour operators in Puerto Varas and the nearby town of La Ensenada organize these activities, but you need to book with them before going to the park.
Entrance tickets to the park cost approximately $8 USD and must be bought ahead of time and online through the dedicated website.
10. Ancud (Chiloé)
The beach outside of Ancud
Ancud is one of the largest cities in the Chiloé Archipelago. It’s located approximately 65 miles from Puerto Varas and to get there you need to cross the Chacao Channel (catch a ferry in the town of Pargua).
Ancud is the best place to learn about Chiloé’s mythology and legends. You’ll find sculptures of local creatures in its main square, and you can also visit the Regional Museum of Ancud to see their exhibits on the island’s traditional cosmovision and history.
11. Puñihuil (Chiloé)
This is a wonderful place for wildlife lovers. Also located on the island of Chiloé and quite near to the city of Ancud, the three islets that make up the Islotes de Puñihuil Natural Monument protect two colonies of Magellanic and Humboldt penguins that nest together, which is an uncommon occurrence. Tour operators offer boat trips that will take you out to see the colonies.
This is also a great site to observe whales migrating north from Antarctica, between October and March. The most commonly spotted are: the blue whale, the humpback whale, the fin whale, and the sei whale.
12. Castro (Chiloé)
Palafitos houses in Castro. Photo: Draceane, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Castro is the other large city in the Chiloé Archipelago. Located 50 miles south of Ancud and on the island’s eastern shore, its also a central base for tour operators and a very convenient location from which to explore the island.
In Castro’s main square you can admire one of the 16 churches declared World Heritage Sites, Iglesia San Francisco (St. Francis Church). Because the temple was destroyed and rebuilt several times, the current structure dates from 1912.
Another feature of this city are the palafitos (stilt houses) along the coast. If you have the time, take a short boat ride to get great views of these iconic houses which are painted in colorful hues.
13. Dalcahue (Chiloé)
The craft market in Dalcahue. Photo: Draceane, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Just a few miles northwest of Castro, the town of Dalcahue is famous for its Sunday market, where artisans and fishermen come from other islands to sell their products. It’s also the main starting point for visiting the nearby smaller islands of the Archipelago.
In the town’s main square, you’ll find one of the 16 World Heritage churches, Iglesia Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows Church). The churche’s gardens offer great views of the Dalcahue Channel.
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What to do in the Lake District
1. Observe wildlife - go birding and take wale watching tours
If you enjoy observing wildlife, Conguillío National Park has several spots identified as important bird areas. The most famous one is Laguna Captrén, which you can reach on a 4x4 vehicle or through a trail that takes between 5 to 6 hours to complete (round trip).
If you don’t have time for an extended excursion, a good alternative is Laguna Arcoíris (Rainbow Lagoon), located close to the park’s entrance and accessible through an easy 45-minute trek. Both lagoons were formed by lava flows from the nearby Llaima Volcano and you can see remnants of trees from the flooded forests.
Throughout the park you can observe some birds that are only found in Chile, such as the Chilean mockingbird (Mimus thenca), the slender-billed parakeet (Enicognathus leptorhynchus), and the Chilean tinamou (Nothoprocta perdicaria).
The Chiloé Archipelago is also a great place for birding and whale watching. You can do both at Puñihuil Natural Monument between October and March. This public protected area is composed of three islets on the northern shore of the large island of Chiloé.
Here, a local ecotourism enterprise offers boat rides to see the penguin colonies during their breeding period, and you can also watch whales during their migration north from Antarctica. Boat rides last between 30 and 40 minutes.
2. Hike among araucarias and ancient rainforests
Conguillío National Park protects native and endangered monkey puzzle tree forests. It’s also famous for its woodpeckers, which have their own trail that requires between 3 to 4 hours to complete. There are 12 trails in the park, six of which take less than one hour to complete, and all of them will take you through amazig sites.
Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park is another popular destination because it combines ancient forests with rivers, lakes, and volcanos. It has 17 trails, nine of which take less than an hour. This park is also the first leg of the famous Lake Crossing, which connects Chile and Argentina through their Lake Districts.
For the crossing, you’ll sail across Lake Todos Los Santos and will reach a small locality called Peulla. From there, you’ll find a road that crosses the Andes mountains and connects to Lake Nahuel Huapi and the city of Bariloche in Argentina.
3. Discover Chile’s German heritage
Universidad Austral, based in Valdivia, runs three museums showcasing Chile’s German heritage. The first two are located in its campus in Isla Teja, across from downtown Valdivia. They are the History and Anthropology Museum and the Exploration Museum.
The Museo Histórico Antropológico Mauricio Van De Maele recognizes the work of this prominent Belgian journalist who dedicated his life to the rescue and protection of regional heritage. The museum has exhibits on the human occupation of this territory, from its first inhabitants to the arrival of the German settlers.
It is located in Anwandter House, a historical monument dating from 1861, built by a family that pioneered the beer industry in the region. You can find more information on their website (in Spanish):
The Museo de la Exploración R.A. Philippi is the equivalent to a science museum. It recognizes the life and work of Rudolph Amandus Philippi and his contribution to the knowledge and conservation of nature in this area. Exhibits highlight the importance of the Valdivian Temperate Rainforest and how it has been studied by different disciplines since the late 1800’s.
There is a medicinal garden that was created along with the Department of Science. You can find more information on their website (Spanish only).
The third museum is the Museo Colonial Alemán de Frutillar, located in the city of Frutillar, alongthe shores of Lake Llanquihue. The museum recreates the life of the German settlers in the area, dating back to 1852. It consists of a park where you can tour its wonderful gardens and see the water mill, the bell tower, the blacksmith's workshop, and the Casona de Campo (country house). You can find more information on their website.
During the summer, all three museums are open from Monday to Sunday between 10:00 AM and 7:00 PM. This is unique to the University’s facilities, as most museums in Chile are closed on Mondays. Entrance tickets cost about $3 USD per person.
4. Sample the local cuisine and beer
The Lakes District is a fantastic destination to taste some of the best dishes in Chile, combining Mapuche, Chilean, and German traditions. The selections below describe some of the highlights of this culinary journey.
Ruka Ka Leufu, a rural tourism destination on the Pan-American highway between Temuco and Valdivia, is a great place from which to start discovering the area’s cusine. You can have breakfast or lunch there and try some typical Mapuche and countryside plates.
The Mapuche specialties you can taste include the catuto or mültrün (in Mapudungun language), which is a pastry made with wheat and then boiled or fried and served with honey, and a wheat cider called muday.
This is part of the Lan-ko Fücha Mapuche Route, so you can also enjoy any of the other attractions they offer. You’ll need to book ahead of time by calling +56974048594 or writing to their email: mariapincheira105@gmail.com Their website is: https://viajaruralchile.cl/p/ruka-ka-leufu
The city of Valdivia has a great restaurant scene, and you can have ezcellent seafood at any of the restaurants located across from the floating market. But the city is most famous for its beer industry. Kunstman is the most well-known Valdivian brewery and the closest one to the city. It has a restaurant and a museum, so you can eat there and also partake in English-speaking tours and catas (tastings). Reservations need to be booked through their website.
Puerto Varas, with its deep German heritage, is the best place to try German Chilean specialties. You can find all of them here, but I especially recommend the pichangas (a varying mix of French fries topped mainly with beef, pork, sausage, fried onion, pickles, avocado, cheese, and bread), served hot on a large platter to share. It’s fun to compare the different versions that you’ll find in restaurants around town.
Finally, on the island of Chiloé you’ll have plenty of opportunities to taste some typical dishes at the markets in Ancud, Castro, and Dalcahue. If you get the chance, try the curanto en hoyo, which consists of a variety of meats, seafood, and vegetables cooked in a fire pit dug into the ground and covered with rhubarb leaves.
Otherwise, you can go for the pulmay, which is another version of this dish but cooked in a pot on a stove. Also, don’t forget to taste Chiloé’s potatos, with more than 280 varieties to choose from, and the breads that Mapuches make with them, milcaos and chapaleles.
5. Go rafting and kayaking
Rafting lovers will be delighted by the experiences on offer at Conguillío and Vicente Pérez Rosales National Parks. A local tour operator based at Melipeuco, just outside the main entrance of Conguillío National Park, offers half-day tours to go rafting down 10 class III rapids in the Truful Truful and Allipen rivers.
The rafting tour will take you through beautiful falls and forests. You need to book ahead of time because this is not an activity organized by the park administration.
Similarly, if you want to go rafting down the class III Petrohué rapids in Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park, you’ll need to book the activity beforehand with a local tour operator based in Puerto Varas or La Ensenada. The excursions last approximately 3.5 hours and gives you amazing views of the Osorno, Calbuco, and Puntiagudo volcanos.
If you prefer kayaking, Valdivia is a great place to practice this sport. Several tour operators offer excursions along the city’s coast and nearby wetlands. They last roughly 4 hours and allow you to admire Valdivia’s beautiful surroundings.
My suggested 7-day itinerary
Day 1 – Santiago to Temuco
Take an early morning 1.5-hour flight from Santiago to Temuco, or board a 10-hour overnight bus the night before. Either way, plan to arrive into Temuco by early morning. Once there, rent a car (most rental companies are based out of the airport) or hire a transfer to take you on to your accommodation.
Spend the rest of the day exploring the city, making sure to visit the Municipal Market, which has a handicraft fair and lots of food stalls.
Overnight in Temuco
Day 2 – Parque Nacional Conguillío
Head into Conguillío National Park and set off on the 6-hour trek among the monkey puzzle trees, enjoying the lakes and waterfalls. After the hike, return to Temuco.
Overnight in Temuco.
Day 3 – Temuco to Valdivia, stopping in Loncoche and Lanco
Hop in the car and head southwest from Temuco en route to the beautiful coastal city of Valdivia. It’s a 2.5 hour drive, and about an hour into the journey you’ll see signs to Loncoche and then Lanco.
You can stop at either or both of these towns to visit and experience the rural tourism initiatives in them that are run by local indigenous communities. This is a great way to experience Mapuche culture and cuisine.
When you get to Valdivia, visit its floating market and sample the local cuisine, which mixes Chilean and German flavors. Enjoy lunch or dinner at a brewery, watch the sunset while sailing along the rivers, visit an old Spanish fort, or hike up the nearby hill which is covered by remnants of ancient Valdivian temperate rainforest. From the top, you’ll have fantastic views of the surrounding wetlands.
Overnight in Valdivia.
Day 4 – Valdivia to Puerto Varas, stopping in Frutillar
Your final destination today is Puerto Varas, about 2.5 hours from Valdivia, but along the way you should stop off in Frutillar, near Lake Llanquihue.
Take some time to explore the town, making sure to check out its museum, where you can learn about the German settlers that helped develop this region. I’d also suggest visiting the Teatro del Lago (Theater by the Lake), which is one of Chile’s main stages for the performing arts.
Afterwards, continue on to Puerto Varas, which sits right on the shores of the lake, and spend the late afternoon and evening hanging out in town.
Overnight in Puerto Varas.
Day 5 – Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park
Go on a full-day tour to Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park. Here, you can experience the thrill of rafting down the rapids of the Petrohué River, sail the tranquil waters of Lake Todos Los Santos, reach the top of the Osorno Volcano for great views of the area, and enjoy skiing its slopes (if visiting during the winter).
Overnight in Puerto Varas.
Day 6 – Puerto Varas to Chiloé **
First thing in the morning, head over to Pargua (about an hour’s drive), the town that sits right on the Chacao channel, which separates mainland Chile from the island of Chiloé. Catch a ferry over to the island and spend the day exploring this truly unique place. There are many things to do in Chiloé, and you could easily spend days touring the island, but with just one day, here’s what I’d recommend:
Begin your tour in the north of the island (where the ferry will drop you off) with a boat trip sailing around the Puñihuil Islets Natural Monument, to see the penguin colonies (and wales, if you’re lucky).
You can then stop by the city of Ancud to learn about Chiloé’s mythology and legends through the sculptures of local creatures at the main square and the exhibits at the Regional Museum.
Then, head south towards Castro, the other large city in the island. Along the way, stop by the town of Dalcahue to visit its lively market where locals sell agricultural products as well as handicrafts.
In Castro, head to the main square and admire the wooden church, Iglesia San Francisco, which is one of the 16 on the island that’s been declared World Heritage Sites.
You can also take a short boat ride here which will afford great views of the palafitos (stilt houses) along the city’s coastline.
Overnight in Castro.
Day 7 – Castro to Puerto Montt, and return to Santiago
In the morning, take the first ferry back to the mainland and then make the 1-hour drive on to to Puerto Montt, where you’ll be catching a flight back to Santiago.
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Carola Fresno
Chile Expert based in Patagonia
¡Hola y buenos días! 👋
I'm Carola, and I've been a tour guide & travel consultant here in Chile for the last 14 years. If you're looking for some local advice on your trip, I'd love to help!
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