A Local’s Guide to Visiting Santiago de Compostela, Spain
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Pilgrims have been setting out on foot in search of Santiago de Compostela from all over Europe since as early as the 9th century, and still today, they arrive here in droves. Do you want to know why? Do you want to join that never ending trail of travelers that’s been coming to the capital city of Galicia before the country of Spain even existed?
Well, come with me on this journey and let’s take a virtual walk through the Earth’s third most important city for Christians - behind only Rome and Jerusalem.
Up until the 9th century, the area where Santiago is located was just a small, isolated, and forgotten crossroads in the Mahía Valley. But around 820 AD, news arrived to the Christian kingdoms that the tomb of Saint James had been discovered there, which immediately elevated the area’s importance enormously, leading to the development of the city.
Whether the Saint’s tomb is truly here is up for debate, but the Christian kings and politicians of the time preferred to believe it was true, as it gave them the perfect excuse to create a counterweight to the Arab domination of the Iberian Peninsula at the time. And that’s how Santiago de Compostela was born, becoming an important European city almost overnight.
Now, whether you believe the legend or not, whether you’re coming here on a pilgrimage, or if you just want to see a beautiful and historic Spanish city, you’re in luck, because everyone will find lots to love about Santiago. The atmosphere here is simply unique, the cathedral is genuinely awe-inspiring, and you can feel the history in every cobbled street.
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Table of Contents
Why visit?
Where is Santiago de Compostela? How to get here
What to know about visiting at different times of year
How long to spend here
Where to stay
Restaurants to try
Things to see & do
Local help with your planning
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Why visit?
Anyone interested in history (particularly of the religious kind), gorgeous medieval city centers, and Medieval architecture will find lots to like about Santiago. The historic center is a perfectly preserved representation of this city’s deep history, and a walk through its narrow streets will genuinely make you feel like you’ve gone back in time to the Middle Ages (assuming you can manage to ignore the thousands of other tourists around you!).
While the Way of Saint James and the Cathedral are the big things that draw people here, I do think it’s worth noting that this is also actually a rather big university town, which makes it really lively, youthful, and fun, which is not something that you necessarily expect from a religious pilgrimage city. The city’s overall population is a little under 100,000, and almost a third of that - approximately 30,000 people - are students attending the local university.
So yes, the squares and streets are ancient and historic, but they’re also filled with students brimming with excitement and the vitality of youth. It’s a really fun combination! The University also brings lots of culture to the city, and you’ll find all sorts of interesting events, exhibitions, speakers, and activities going on at any time of year because of this.
Personally, I kind of think of Santiago as a blend of three primary components: a cosmopolitan city visited by hundreds of thousands of people from all over the world every year, a youthful and somewhat alternative university hub, and a deeply historic place that holds some of the treasures of Christianity along with the traditions of Galicia (as any capital city would).
Where is Santiago?
Santiago de Compostela is located close to the center of Galicia, lying about 50 kilometers inland from the coast, which is unusual for the cities in this region that is so closely connected to and intertwined with the sea. The surrounding area is quite hilly and is largely covered in forests, which is very much typical of Galicia’s interior - a sparsely populated area where nature still reigns.
A Coruña is about 75 kilometers to the north, Pontevedra and Vigo are 60-90 kilometers to the south, and the beaches and coves of the Rias Baixas are just to the southwest on the nearby coast.
If you’ll be traveling elsewhere in Galicia before or after coming here, I actually think Santiago’s inland position represents a really nice change of pace, as the city is close enough to the sea for it to still be accessible, but far enough away that it feels totally different from the coastal cities/towns.
How to get here
If you’ll be coming here from elsewhere in Europe, Santiago is super accessible, as Galicia’s only international airport is right outside the city. You’ll find lots of daily connections with other countries in western Europe as well as major cities throughout Spain.
Alternatively, if you’ll already be in Spain before arriving here, the easiest way to reach the city is typically by train or bus. Santiago is well connected by train with Madrid, with multiple arrivals into the city each day. The journey takes 3 to 4 hours and will cost around 80 euros.
You also have frequent local trains connecting Santiago with the other major cities in Galicia, like A Coruña, Vigo, and Pontevedra. These journeys rarely take more than 1.5 hours and cost from 5-15 euros.
From elsewhere in northern Spain, the bus is your best option, and you’ll find regular connections with Bilbao, San Sebastián, Gijón, Oviedo, and Santander. ALSA, Spain’s major long-distance bus company is almost always the best place to check for timetables and routes.
And finally, if you’ll be doing a road trip through Spain and will have a car, Santiago is easily reached via any number of well-maintained local roads as well as national highways. If you haven’t already rented your car, I always recommend checking prices and booking,with DiscoverCars.
It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals. I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
How long to spend
Two days is plenty of time to get a good overview of Santiago and to visit its main sights. This is a fairly small city and its center is extremely walkable and compact, so you can quickly and easily cover the major monuments and historical sights in a single day. That leaves your second day in town for a more leisurely experience, simply soaking up the atmosphere and seeing this place like we locals do.
My recommendation would be to dedicate your first day here to exploring the old town and visiting the religious and cultural landmarks, such as the Cathedral and the other monuments on the Praza do Obradoiro, the monuments, the many palaces - chief among them the Fonseca Palace, Pazo de Bendaña, and the Pazo de Raxoi -, our excellent museums (some historical, others modern, like the Galicia Contemporary Art Center), and the historic university buildings.
These are all quite close together in the old town, so once you’ve visited the “attractions”, you should just plan to get lost in the cobbled streets, alleyways, and narrow staircases of this medieval center. Wander around leisurely and soak up every little fabulous detail. Just enjoy being in a beautiful Medieval town!
On your second day, I suggest seeing a different side of the city and mixing in some more active pursuits. Start with a walk out along the Sarela River in the morning, getting a glimpse of rural, inland Galicia. In the afternoon, it’s time to feast, hopping from restaurant to restaurant and sampling tapas and wine, beer and pulpo (octopus), and anything else that looks good.
Of course, you should visit the Mercado de Abastos, our food market, during your food crawl, and sample lots of local produce and dishes. This is how the Univeristy students here like to spend an afternoon, so I think it’s a great way to “do as the locals”.
Where to stay
As I’ve said above, Santiago is a small city and no matter where you stay, you’ll rarely be more than a 20-30 minute walk from almost anywhere you want to go. So, from a sightseeing perspective, I really don’t think it matters all that much where you stay.
There are really two major areas to choose from, the historic center and the newer part of town, and given that they’re right next to each other, which one you stay in should just depend on the vibe you’re after and your budget: historic; quaint; and expensive, or modern; convenient; and more affordable.
Here’s a quick overview of each area:
Zona Vella (Old Town)
Santiago’s old town, its Zona Vella, is the place to stay if you want to be in the heart of Compostela’s spirit and its most historic areas. Walk along the little alleyways, hang out in its regal squares lined by Romanesque; Gothic; and Baroque buildings, listen to the sounds on the street rising up to your windows above, and just feel like you’ve traveled back to Medieval times for a couple of days.
This area is absolutely charming, but as you might expect it’s also epxensive. It’s quite touristy too, as locals live mostly over in the other, newer part of town.
If you have the budget for it, I think staying in the Hostal dos Reis Católicos - a historic inn for pilgrims that was constructed next to the Cathedral by order of the Catholic Kings of Spain in the 15th century - is well, well worth it. Expect to spend about 350 USD per night, on average.
For something still central but less obscenely priced, I’d recommend Capitol Boutique Hotel, with rates from around 130 USD.
El Ensanche (the modern city center)
Just to the south of the Old Town, beneath the Praza de Galicia and Parque da Alameda, El Ensanche is the modern city center of Santiago, and it’s a good choice if you want to be close to shops, banks, supermarkets, and all sorts of other modern amenities and services.
Parts of this area are literally right outside of the old town, while even further into the neighborhood you’ll still only be around a 15-minute walk to the Cathedral. There are a couple of other benefits to staying here rather than the historic center, chief among them that you’ll find cheaper accommodation, more modern hotels, and a more residential vibe, as many locals live here. The restaurants and shops cater more to locals than tourists, which is not so much the case in the old town.
I really like the vibe here, and despite being modern, it’s very pleasant and rather charming. The train station is also here, so it’s convenient if you’ll be arriving to or leaving the city by train.
Where to eat
In Galicia, food is king, and I’d wager to say that you’ll eat better here than anywhere else in Spain. Being a Gallego, I would say that, of course, but I genuinely think it’s true.
Being a popular tourist destination and a student hub, Santiago has all types of restaurants, from traditional Galician food to global cuisines, but I’m only going to recommend below places that serve food typical of the region. Here are my favorites:
Mercado de Abastos: A traditional market, filled with farmers, fishmongers, and butchers, this is where locals come to do their shopping. You probably aren’t planning to cook while here though, so I’ve got a tip: you can purchase raw products from the vendors and then head over to the restaurant stalls and ask the chefs there to prepare you a dish with it (for a fee, of course). It’s a lot of fun and is a pretty unique way to get a meal.
Restaurante Oliveira: A contemporary restaurant where traditional Galician dishes are made with modern flair and trends. The ambiance is lovely and it’s really good value for how excellent the food is. Don’t leave without trying the cod!
Mesón do Pulpo: Unpretentious, traditional, and always a safe bet. If you want to try traditional octopus cooked Gallego style, this is the place to do it.
A Noiesa: Expensive but sublime. If you want the finest versions of traditional Galician food, look no further.
What to see & do in Santiago
1. Catedral de Santiago
The Cathedral of Santiago is the symbol of what this city represents today not only for Galicia or Spain, but for the whole world of Christianity. Firs built in the beginning of 9th century under the orders of the Asturian king Alfonso II of Asturias, the cathedral was later raided and destroyed by the Moors, and the current Cathedral was rebuilt over those ruins in the 11th century.
No other cathedral in the Iberian Peninsula holds the symbolic importance of this one, and I think it’s fair to say that there’s not a single one that can compete with its grandeur either. You could spend hours admiring its intricate details, its baroque façade, its famous Romanesque Portico of Glory, and its roofs. And that’s without even going inside!
It’s simply a wonder to behold.
2. See the Botafumeiro in action
The Botafumeiro is a famous thurible - a metal incense burner - that has been used in the Cathedral since the 12th century, and maybe even earlier. Its name, which is a combination of the Galician word “botar” (to eject or expel) and the Latin “fume” (smoke), can be literally translated as “smoke thrower”.
It’s considered a symbol of the city and the cathedral, and standing almost 2 meters tall and weighing in at around 80 kg, is one of the biggest “censers” (another name for this type of incense burner) in the world.
Initially used to cleanse the environment in the church from the masses of sweaty/dirty and weary pilgrims arriving there, it’s now only used on specific celebratory days (you can see the schedule here), but if you happen to visit on one of them, it’s awesome to see it in action: hung about 20 meters in the air, swinging in a 60 meter arc at dizzyingly fast speeds, and emitting huge clouds of smoke.
If you’ve got cash to spare, you can request a private “performance” for the hefty sum of around 450 euros.
Cervantes Square. Photo: José Antonio Gil Martínez from Vigo, Spain, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
3. Visit the main squares: the Prazas do Obradoiro, Quintana, and Cervantes
Santiago’s cathedral is sort of surrounded by three beautiful and grand squares. The church’s façade looks straight out onto the Obradoiro square, which was historically the place where pilgrims were welcomed (and still are). Some of the most notable ancient constructions in the city are here on this square: the Hostal dos Reis Católicos, the Pazo de Xelmírez, the Raxoi Palace (now the city hall), and the Colexio de San Xerome.
However, I think the most beautiful square in the city migh justt be the one located on the back side of the Cathedral: the Praza da Quintana. This one is the favorite for locals, and is often used for concerts and demonstrations.
And then there is the little sister of these two, the Cervantes square, full of charm.
Praza do Obradoiro. Photo: slideshow bob, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Praza da Quintana. Photo: Lancastermerrin88, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Cervantes Square
4. Tour the historic University buildings: Pazo de Fonseca and the main halls of the Schools of History, Philosophy, and Medicine
Let’s keep literally strolling through history, walking just a few hundred meters from the cathedral to some of the city’s other glorious buildings. If you turn right from the Obradoiro square, you’ll quickly find yourself at the Fonseca Residency, built in the 16th century. Fonseca was the first residency house for students who came here, arriving to a city that embraced, from its very beginnings, its position as a place of knowledge and learning in Galicia.
It’s now a library for the the University of Santiago de Compostela, and is just one of a few of glorious historic buildings in use by the university. Other lovely buildings actively being used for scholastic purposes include those occupied by the schools of History, Philosophy, and Medicine, which are spread out around the Old Town.
The university is open to the public, so don’t hesitate to go inside and wander around. And if you feel weird doing that, just pretend you’re studying there too!
The courtyard of the Pazo de Fonseca. Photo: Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
5. Hostal de los Reyes Católicos
Now an upscale hotel, this lovely Renaissance structure was originally built in the 1400’s as lodging and a hospital for pilgrims, and it’s thought to be one of the oldest continually operating hotels in the world.
A night there is probably out of reach for the vast majority of us, but you don’t need to be a guest to visit the grounds and interior courtyards, which are very much worth exploring. This is widely considered to be one of the best hotels in the world!
The hotel’s Patio de San Mateo courtyard. Photo: Armando Gonzalez Alameda, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Casa do Cabildo and the Plaza de las Platerías
A purely decorative building, there’s not much to say about the Casa do Cabildo other than that it has a beautiful Baroque facade that I think warrants a glimpse while visiting the city. The structure was built in the 1750’s as a way to beautify the Praza de Platerías (success!) and today it sometimes hosts art shows and exhibits.
The square is lovely as well, ringed by numerous other pretty buildings. It’s a nice spot to sit and hang out, watching people wander by.
Plaza de Las Platerias with the Casa do Cabildo at the back. Photo: Diego Delso, delso.photo, License CC BY-SA
7. Galician Centre of Contemporary Art (CGAC)
In with the new, out with the old! Since so much of a visit to Santiago is about medieval architecture, I think a visit to a contemporary art museums provides a nice change of pace. The museum does a nice job of showcasing Galician artists (as well as international ones) and the minimalist design is very different from most of what you’ll have seen in town.
Right next to Bonaval park, there’s a nice garden in back of the museum that’s a pleasant place to relax.
8. Museum of the Galician People
Being the capital of Galicia, it only makes sense that Santiagio has a museum dedicated to the people and traditions of the area. Housed in an old convent, there are nice exhibits on things like traditional clothing and customs, the (ever important) fishing industry, and traditional music and instruments (including bagpipes - an instrument that most visitors are very surprised to find here).
Exhibits/collections aside, the museum’s grand spiral staircase, which seems to continue upwards infinitely, is awesome.
The museum’s spiral staircase. Photo: Mário José Martins, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
9. San Lorenzo de Trasouto
Considered as one of Santiago’s prettiest pazos (traditional manor houses), this 13th century building started out as a monastery for Franciscan monks before becoming a residential palace and now an event space. The structure itself is quite pleasant, but its best known for its cloister garden, made up of unusual designs, often compared to hieroglyphs, by intricately organized boxwood hedges.
The garden with its box hedges. Photo: LolaMento, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
10. Mercado de Abastos
As with any Spanish city, there has to be a nice market in town, right? Here, that’s the Mercado de Abastos, which is a lively spot that’s been open in one form or another since the 17th century. You’ll find lots of vendors selling local produce and other agricultural products as well as some stalls cooking up meals to order. It’s a nice place to see the types of things we grow and eat here, and it’s just fun to see locals doing their shopping.
11. Go for tapas in the Zona Vella (old town)
Santiago de Compostela is one of those Galician cities where many Spaniards from other regions freak out (in a good way) after ordering a drink. Why? Because the bars here offer abundant servings of free tapas with each beer, cocktail, or glass of wine. So, here’s one of my favorite tapas-munching routes to take through the old town:
Start at the aptly named Orella (which means ear in Galician), and sample their speciality - you guessed it: pork ears! Next up is Cabalo Branco, where you should try then lentils. Then move on to Gato Negro and order some pementos de Padrón (the famed peppers from the town of Padrón). Xuntanza should be next, and finally, if you’re still hungry (and sober enough!), finish up at A Taberna do Bispo.
12. Monastery of San Martín Pinario
The second largest monastery complex in Spain - after the famous El Escorial -, this monumental building was originally built in the 12th century, and then heavily rebuilt in the 17th. As you can see from the photo below, the facade is beautiful, as are the main altar and choir stall inside, along with the cloister.
In case you want to check out another monasterie (you are in the land of Saint James after all!), make your way over to the Convento de São Paio de Antealtares, a 9th century Benedictine convent whose nuns make and sell very tasty almond cakes.
The faced of the Monastery of San Martín Pinario. Photo: Fernando, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
13. Go for a walk through the Parque da Alameda
Alameda Park, the green lung of Santiago, is the most beloved recreational area in the city. A huge leafy park, it’s perfect for long strolls when you want to escape from the narrow streets of the old town. Be sure to head to the Mirador de Alameda, with its impressive staircase, and visit the church that stands at its highest point, offering great views over the Cathedral and the Old Town.
The park stands as a sort of barrier between the Old Town, the university area, and the new town, so it’s also the perfect point from where to head to a new part of the city: either exploring the newer Ensanche district, or wandering about the university and seeing all the students.
I think it’s most pleasant at evening, right as dusk starts to set in.
If like me, you love exploring parks and green spaces when in cities, you should also make sure to head over at some point to the even larger Parque De Belvís, on the southeastern edge of the old town. The convent within the park (Convento de Belvís) is quite peaceful and pleasant as well, and is less visited than the more famous monuments in town.
Looking outfrom the park. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
The Mirador of Alameda. Photo: Luis Miguel Bugallo Sánchez (Lmbuga), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
14. Cidade da Cultura (City of Culture)
So far, I’ve told you all about how historic Santiago is, with its Medieval center and ancient buildings. And while that’s the only side that most visitors will see here, it’s not the full story. So, if you want to see something that is in complete contrast to the classic architecture of the Zona Vella, you’ve just got to head out to the Cidaded da Cultura.
Found at the top of a hill just to the southeast of town, this is a series of weird and fantastic modern structures designed by the famous architect Peter Eisenman. The buildings themselves, and their absurd forms and shapes, are the main reason to visit, but there’s also a museum, library, amphitheater, and a skate park.
High above the city, the views over Santiago are incredible, especially at sunset. Be sure to check their website to see what’s going on, as the site often hots cultural acts, concerts, and other performances. It’s totally off the tourist map, but is a great spot.
Photo: P.Lameiro, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Luis Miguel Bugallo Sánchez (Lmbuga), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Luis Miguel Bugallo Sánchez (Lmbuga), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
15. Monte do Gozo
This is the final stage before the end of the trail for pilgrims walking the Camino. Just 5 kilometers from the city, it’s atop this hilly promontory that pilgrims historically caught their first glimpse of the three spires of the Cathedral of Santiago after days or weeks of walking.
And while you might think it wouldn’t make sense to go all the way out there if you’re not also walking the Way of Saint James, I think it’s just the opposite. Once you get here, you can really feel the power and history of this place. From the promontory, you’ll better understand the draw and allure this city has created for the past 1,000 years. You’ll also see lots of happy pilgrims, content to have finally almost finished their journey.
Pilgrim sculptures looking out from atop the hill. Photo: Pmk58, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
16. Mosteiro de Sobrado dos Monxes (Sobrado Abbey)
Santiago de Compostela is not the only place to have seen significant development as a result of its important position along the Way of St. James. Rather, spectacular buildings were constructed all along the route, popping up sporadically between France (the start of the walk) and Santiago.
One of these is the impressive Cistercian Abbey of Sobrado dos Monxes, founded in 951 AD. The church has changed hands a number of times over the year, periodically falling into decay and disuse, but it has once again been occupied by monks since around 1966. If you visit, you can buy products produced by the monks, including honey, beer, and very tasty fudge. The food and drink is worth the trip even if you’re not interested in the monastery!
Sobrado Abbey. Photo: Rocsbarizo83, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
17. Cascada Fervenza do Toxa
Ready for a break from history, architecture, and culture? Then head to the town of Silleda and visit the 30-meter tall waterfall of O Toxa. These are some of the most impressive falls in Galicia and they’re surrounded by lovely forests very typical of the Galician countryside.
Not far away is the Monastery of Carboeiro, a lovely 10th century Romanesque monastery - well worth making a side trip to.
The falls. Photo: Xosema, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
18. Do the 10-km walk along the Sarela River
Another nature escape, but this time much closer to the city, is the magnificent walk along the Sarela River. The path begins just 5 minutes away from the Cathedral and continues out along the river, along boardwalks, across bridges, and over dirt paths. You can walk as far or as little as you want (out to the end), but any stretch will be a wonderful break from the city.
Find more details (and lots of photos) here.
19. Listen to live music in Riquela… and get ready for a late night!
With so many universities, so many pilgrims, and so many people looking to have fun, there must be some great entertainment here, right? Certainly! Santiago is known for its lively nightlife, and one of my favorite spots in town is Riquela, a bar during the day that becomes a rowdy club at night. Its program is always changing, so take a look on their website and see if there’s anything that interests you on a given night.
The other main club in the city is Capitol, so if you really want to extend your evening (as any good Spaniard would, you can add it in too.
And then there’s Maycar: a greasy, dark, old, grimy dive where music goes on until the early morning… It has been visited by generation after generation of university students basically forever, and despite its distinct lack, is an absolute favorite. It’s definitely not the vibe for me, but if you’re after the quintessential student nightlife experience, it’ll for sure give you it.
Alfonso Nuñez
Spain Expert based in San Sebastián
¡Hola y buenos días! 👋
Hi, I'm Alfonso, and I've been a tour guide and travel consultant here in Spain for the last 18 years. If you're looking for some local advice on your trip, I'd love to help!
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