One Week in Galicia - A Local's Itinerary
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I was born and raised in Galicia, and despite living elsewhere for the the better part of the past decade (mostly in the Basque Country), I’ve always returned to my home region multiple times every year to visit family and friends and to simply be a tourist myself.
I think that because I know the region both as a local and a tourist (sort of anyways), I have a really good feel for how to structure a visit here when you have limited time, understanding which places are actually “must visits”, which ones you can skip, and of course, the little off the beaten path gems that make any visit anywhere truly special.
Galicia is wildly different from the picture that most people have of Spain, and here, lush greenery, expansive forests, and wild, rough seas replace the sun-drenched plains and calm waters of southern Spain. The sea has been the lifeblood of this region for centuries, and Gallegos (as the people here are known) have a deep connection to the ocean, with almost all of us having ancestors who were either fishermen or sailors.
This maritime tradition is evident at all times, and I think it’s the essential theme of any visit here, which is why I’ve planned out the following one-week itinerary to quite literally hug the coastline for almost the entire duration of your visit. Our dramatic coastlines, gorgeous beaches, charming little fishing towns, and lively cities are what makes this region special, so the trip that I’ve put together is entirely focused on them.
And one of the really great things about Galicia, no matter where you go, is that it is far, far less-visited than more popular parts of Spain, so with the exception of Santiago de Compostela, you never need to worry about tourist traps or tourist crowds. This is a place that lots of Spaniards visit, especially in the summer, but you simply won’t come across many other foreign tourists, so a visit here is a chance to mix it up with locals and see places far from the typical tourist trail.
As for the route, you’ll start off in the far north in A Coruña, before heading south to the one truly unmissable city that we have here: Santiago de Compostela. After that, you’ll stick to the coast for the next few days, cruising along the Costa da Morte and Rías Baixas, while visiting a few incredible islands and lots of pretty towns and nice cities.
To cap things off, you’ll head inland to the geological wonder that is the Canyon of the Sil River, finally getting a little taste for the green valleys and forests of inland Galicia.
If this all sounds good to you, keep reading below for the detailed version of the plan!
And for anyone looking for some additional info on Galicia, you can check out a few of my other articles/guides here:
Table of Contents
Itinerary overview
Galicia is a fairly sizable region and its also relatively mountainous, so travel times here can often be longer than you would expect. What that means is that you absolutely cannot see the entirety of the region with only one week. However, what most people come here for are the coastal areas (and that’s with good reason - they’re gorgeous), and with a full week you can cover a lot of the coastline.
For this itinerary, I’ve planned what I think is a very nice mix of beaches, nature, and urban life, with the idea being to give you a solid introduction to this wonderful place, which is also my home region. You’ll start off in the north and will spend the following week making your way south, always only the western edge, with the wild Atlantic Ocean forever at your fingertips.
Here’s a quick look at the plan:
Day 1: Arrive to A Coruña, stroll along the city's waterfront, visit the Old Town, and enjoy a night out on Orzán street.
Day 2: Take the train to Santiago de Compostela, visit the Cathedral and Historic Center, and wander through the modern Ensanche district.
Day 3: Visit Cape Finisterre and then cruise along the Costa da Morte, stopping off regularly at its glorious windswept beaches and ending the day in the lovely seaside town of Muros.
Day 4: Time to explore the Rias Baixas! Sample some peppers in Padrón in the morning and then spend the better part of the day on the bucolic Illa de Arousa. Finish up in the historic and beautiful town of Cambados.
Day 5: Do some urban exploring in Pontevedra’s gorgeous and pedestrianized old town, then spend the rest of the day cruising along the Morrazo Peninsula, visiting its towns, beaches, and natural areas. End the day the “big” city of Vigo.
Day 6: Check out Vigo’s recently restored historic center first thing in the morning, then catch a ferry over to the Illas Ciés, the closest thing that Galicia has to the Caribbean. Enjoy a gorgeous day on the islands, then head back to Vigo for a bit more evening exploration.
Day 7: On your lst day in Galicia, we’re going to finally leave the coast behind and head inland, making our way to the Cañon del Sil, one of the most impressive river gorges in Spain. Here, you can take a river cruise, do some hiking, visit great local wineries, and check out lots of pretty little monasteries.
Meet the author
Fernando, the author of this guide (and most of our Northern Spain articles), is a Spanish travel writer and outdoorsman. Now based in his native Galicia, he previously spent 10 years living in the Basque Country.
In addition to writing these fabulous guides and itineraries, he also offers Spain travel consultations for readers who want personalized help planning their trips to Spain's wild north.
Day 1 - A Coruña
Looking out over Playa del Orzán and the city
Morning – Walk the Paseo Marítimo
A Coruña is basically synonymous with ocean breeze, seafood, broad beaches, and the longest seaside promenade in Europe. What better place then, to start your exploration of Galicia than in this this salty, windswept, ocean-surrounded city?
Kick things off early and plan to start your city tour in Praza de María Pita, the A Coruña’s grand central square. It’s named after the local heroine who rallied the townspeople to repel Sir Francis Drake and the British fleet in 1589. Today, the square is flanked by elegant glass galleries and the enormous 19th-century City Hall, and it’s a perfect place to grab your first coffee and tortilla of the day at Breen’s Tavern, right on the square.
Once fueled up, head east along the paseo marítimo, A Coruña’s epic seaside promenade. First stop: the Castelo de Santo Antón, a 16th-century fortress turned prison, now home to a small but worthwhile archaeology museum. From there, follow the coast north and get ready for a scenic two-mile stroll along the bluffs.
The route will eventually lead you to the city’s most iconic landmark: the Torre de Hércules, which is the oldest functioning Roman lighthouse in the world. Set in a wild headland park with panoramic ocean views and a ton of very cool sculptural installations to check out (at the Parque Escultórico da Torre de Hércules), this is the place where you really start to understand A Coruña’s connection to the Atlantic.
But you’re not done with the coast yet. So round the bend from the lighthouse and continue south along the promenade, past rugged cliffs and coves (definitely check out the little tucked away beach of Praia das Lapas), until you arrive at the wide urban beaches of Orzán and Riazor. These are exceptionally nice city beaches; long, clean, and perfect for either a swim or just to watch the surfers. Be sure to snap a couple of pictures here of the Fonte dos Surfistas (Surfers Fountain), with its two very cool surfing statues.
If you're up for it, you can even rent a board at Ultramarinos Surf School and get out on the waves yourself. Alternatively, just settle in at VAZVA Coffee Bar, one of my favorite hangouts in the city, with unbeatable views of the waves. At this point, you’ll have walked the most scenic stretch of the promenade (not the whole thing though - that would be a marathon) and will have earned a proper Galician lunch. More on that below.
The Tower of Hercules and statue of the Celtic King Breogan. Photo: Luis Miguel Bugallo Sánchez (Lmbuga), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The iconic surfer sculptures on the southwestern side of the Paseo Marítimo
Afternoon – A seafood lunch, more of the Old Town, the Port area
Lunch in A Coruña….. this is a difficult one! Not because it’s hard to find a good choice though - quite the opposite: there are simply too many great spots here. What restaurant can I recommend you in a city where excellent restaurants are simply the norm? Well, I’ll you two options, at very different price points.
Do you want to try somewhere classic, eating in one of the most popular, working-class restaurants you’ll find here? In that case, go to La Bombilla, a place where you’ll feast on croquetas, squid, milanesas, and chorizo, all the while surrounded by locals all standing up along the bar squeezing in shoulder to shoulder. A meal here will have you feeling like a true “a coruñés” (local).
For something “a bit” more refined, La Teresa is the place to go. Modern and hip but still not excessively expensive or stuck up, this spot perfectly mixes the traditional seafood and fish recipes of Galicia with foreign influences. It’s undoubtedly the best place to sample modern Galician cuisine.
Whichever you choose, you’ll be very close to María Pita square from either, because remember, A Coruña is a peninsula, so you’re never far from anywhere else. Following lunch, my suggestion would be to burn off the calories here in the Old Town, which is full of tiny alleys, classical stone buildings like the Colexiata de Santa María (built between the 13th and the 14th centuries) and 12th-century Igrexa de Santiago, and bucolic spots like Azcárraga Square, the main artery and meeting point of A Coruña’s Old Town.
There aren’t tons of big sights that you have to see, which I think is a big part of the pleasure of being in A Coruña; you can just have a good time rather than worrying about sightseeing. So take your time and just enjoy the scenery here.
Whenever you get thirsty, make your way back to Azcárraga square, where you’ll find Ummagumma, which is definitely the best bar in A Coruña. So grab a coffee, a beer, or a tasty Galician wine, and relax for a bit while watching the activity on the square. This is always one of my favorite spots to hang out, so I hope you love it too.
When you feel like you’ve seen enough of the Old Town, make your way just a bit west to Avenida Marina, one of the city’s main streets and an always-fun thoroughfare that passes right by the port. Stroll down the avenue, checking out its various monuments and landmarks, and be on the lookout for the Galerías de la Marina, one of the symbols of this city, and an extensive 19th-century building complex whose façade is almost entirely made up of glass windows.
The building is designed in a very unusual architectural style for Spain and is the reason why A Coruña is known as “The Glass City” (La Ciudad de Cristal).
Continue down the avenue for as far as you want - it’ll eventually take you to the Gardens of Méndez Núñez, which is a lovely big park that’s backed by a busy a very busy shopping area that’s also fun to check out. This city is, after all, the home of Inditex, the company that brought us Zara (and lots of other brands), so it’s only right that you should do a bit of shopping while here.
The magnificent City Hall building on María Pita Square in A Coruña. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The iconic Galerías buildings along Avenida Marina. Photo: Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening - Sunset views at Monte de San Pedro and a night out on Orzán Street
Ok, here it comes now, my favorite moment of the day whenever I’m in A Coruña. Hail a taxi and ask the driver to take you to Monte de San Pedro, the hilltop park whose lush green lawns offer incredible views. Once you get there, you’ll understand everything; the views of the city, the ocean surrounding the peninsula, and the sun setting over the horizon. A moment you will remember forever.
Right there, in Monte de San Pedro, you can also go to one of the best (but also priciest) restaurants in the city - Árbore da Veira. Perched right atop the hill, the restaurant has a Michelin star and serves very elegant, experimental food.
If you want something more relaxed, call another taxi and have the driver take you to Orzán Street, where you’ll be able to grab a bite at any number of the excellent, but mostly inexpensive restaurants that line the street.
Regardless of where you eat, you should plan to spend the rest of the night on/around Orzán Street, so that you can join the locals who spill out onto the sidewalks with cañas and cocktails there. This is where the city goes out, and you can easily extend your night as late as you’d like - remember, in Galicia we take our nights and our parting seriously, and we stay up late.
Many of the streets in this area are quite busy until very late, so it’s always a really good time and you can easily bar hop from one place to the next.
So mingle with the locals and grab a post-dinner drink or two, or as many as you want!
Overnight in A Coruña
Looking out over the sea from Monte San Pedro. Jose Luis Cernadas Iglesias, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Day 2 - Santiago de Compostela
The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Photo: Fernando Pascullo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning – The Cathedral, Old Town, Galician people’s museum, & Mercado de Abastos
Getting from A Coruña to Santiago is easy and quick via the train, taking just 30 minutes to get into Santiago’s downtown. Given how popular this city is, I’d suggest getting an early start so that you can arrive by 8:30 or 9:00. You really do want to beat some of the crowds when in this town.
From the train station, it’s just a 10-minute walk to my favorite historic monument not just in Galicia but in the whole of Spain - the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
The history behind this magnificent mostly-Baroque cathedral is just as impressive as its design, which will no doubt wow you. Its story begins in the 9th century, when a small church was constructed nearbyr because it’s supposedly where the remains of the Apostle Saint James were found. From there, the cathedral was shaped over the centuries by wars, battles, revolutions, politic metamorphosis, and three different architectural styles - Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque. All of this contributed to the glorious cathedral we see today, a marvelous patchwork of different eras and influences.
And of course, the Cathedral of Santiago is the main the point of reference and more or less the final stop for the thousands of pilgrims who have been traveling along the St. James Way (the Camino de Santiago) from the 9th century through to today.
So, my personal recommendation is that you buy your tickets in advance and plan to dedicate anywhere from 1.5 to 4 hours for your visit here. I know that sounds like a lot, but this is one of the most important and beautiful churches anywhere in the world, so you should thoroughly explore every corner of it - from the spectacular work of art carried out in the Pórtico da Gloria, the Gelmírez Palace (the former episcopal palace), the museum, to the towers and rooftop, from where you’ll be able to see the entirety of the densely packed little old town, itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988.
Whenever you feel like you’re ready to move on, a few more of Santaigo’s most impressive sights lie just outside the church. The cathedral is more or less surround by three beautiful and grand squares, with the façade looking straight out onto Obradoiro square, which was historically the place where pilgrims were welcomed into the city (and still are). Some of the city’s most noteworthy historic buildings are right here on this square: the Hostal dos Reis Católicos, the Pazo de Xelmírez, the Raxoi Palace (now the city hall), and the Colexio de San Xerome.
Once you’ve checked out Obradoiro, make your way behind the cathedral to another wonderful square: the Praza da Quintana de Mortos. This one is for the locals, and we hold lots of concerts, events, and demonstrations here. The architecture is similarly beautiful. Just on the corner from there is the Praza das Praterías, another spot you absolutely must admire.
And finally, not too far away is the “little sister” of these squares - Cervantes Square. Once the main market square in the city, it’s just a charming little spot.
Depending on how long you spent at the cathedral earlier, you’ll may still have time before lunch for a bit more sightseeing. In that case, I have two more suggestions:
Museo do Pobo Galego: This is the capital of Galicia, so if you’re at all interested in the culture, traditions, and history of this region, this nice museum makes for a good visit. It’s housed in a former convent and has a nice collection of traditional clothing, instruments, and tools in addition to historical explanations. And of course, it’s magnificent spiral staircase, which seems to wind upwards infinitely, is always a showstopper.
The Mercado de Abastos: Not far from the museum (back toward the Cathedral) is the city’s main market, which has been in operations in one form or another since the 17th century. The market is always busy and has a nice mix of local produce, seafood, meats, cheeses, flowers, and other things you’d expect. It’s fun to just browse and watch the locals doing their shopping, but there are also some stalls that cook meals to order.
Praza do Obradoiro. Photo: slideshow bob, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Plaza de las Platerías. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon - A feast in the Old Town, the University, & Monasterio de San Martiño Pinario
After a morning of touring religious and historical sights, it’s time to enjoy some simpler pleasures, and in Galicia, that almost always means food (for me at least!)! So for the afternoon, I’ve planned out a sightseeing a sort of combined food and sightseeing tour.
Your first stop is Gato Negro, where you can try some of their Galician specialties like Padrón peppers and mussels, as well as their always-excellent Spanish omelette. From there, just a few steps away is Orella, famous for its typical pork ear. Next up is La Noiesa, a (not-so-hidden-anymore) little gem along Franco Street that locals really love. Here, in very pleasant surroundings, you can enjoy some unbelievably tasty traditional dishes.
After lunch, for the sake of keeping up with “local traditions”, I recommend you get a coffee at one of the terraces in the Old Town. My choice for this would be Caña Hueca, which is right in front of the historic buildings of the University of Santiago de Compostela. Along with Salamanca and Granada, Santiago has always been one of the main university towns in Spain, and you’ll certainly notice this here, with the throngs of students moving about.
After your coffee, it’s time to really check out some of the university buildings, starting with the 16th-century Fonseca Residency, which was the first housing unit for students attending the university here. It has since been converted into a library and is a lovely building well worth taking a peak at. The University has a few other gorgeous old buildings, all of which are open to the public, so I’d definitely recommend wandering through some of them.
you get to the San Martiño Pinario Square. The Benedictine Monastery of San Martiño Pinario was built in 899 and was and still is the most important monastery in Galicia —an absolute power in the city of Santiago, where it owned most of the buildings in the old town until the 19th century. That power can be seen in its square, its baroque façade and the cloister you can visit for free.
San Martiño Pinario is a massive construction, so it will take also some time to properly visit it.
The Monasterio de San Martin Pinario. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening – Explore the “modern” Ensanche area, Alameda Park, & dinner
You could head back into the Old Town at this point if you just want to enjoy the atmosphere there, but I’d suggest something a bit different: venturing just beyond the Old Town into the Ensanche district. This is Santiago’s 20th-century expansion, and it’s a much more modern area that gives you a very different perspective on the city.
If you’re looking on a map, this is the area directly south of the Old Town and Parque de Alameda, and it’s fairly compact, so is easy to explore. There are no sights here, but it’s still a pleasant area and it’s much more local, with far fewer tourist-oriented shops and restaurants. I really like going for a wander here, and I think it’s worthwhile for visitors because it shows that this is a real city, not “just” a beautifully preserved historic center.
Once you’re ready to move on, head just north into the Parque de Alameda, which is the green lungs of the city and a truly gorgeous urban park. This is the most beloved recreational area in Santiago and its the perfect place to relax and refresh when you need a break from the crowds of the city. It’s especially lively in the evening, which it should be at this point.
Be sure to head to the Miradoiro da Alameda, with its impressive staircase, and visit the church that stands at its highest point, offering great views over the Cathedral and the Old Town.
For dinner, I’d suggest heading back into the old town and eating at Casa dos Xacobes, a nice spot with reasonable prices and tasty fusions of Galician food with international influences.
Overnight in Santiago de Compostela
(You could also opt to stay a second night in A Coruña and just take the train back there after dinner. The distance from either city to Fisterra (the first place you’ll visit tomorrow) is pretty similar, so it doesn’t much matter where you stay tonight.)
Alameda Park. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Day 3 - Finisterre and the Costa da Morte
Looking out on Cape Finistere
Morning - A visit to Cape Finisterre and its town
No pilgrim is said to have truly finished the Camino de Santiago until they reach Cape Finisterre - once believed to be the westernmost point of Europe and the literal “end of the world” (which is the direct translation from its original Latin name of Finis Terrae).
It takes about three days to walk the 50 or so miles from Santiago to Finisterre, but by car it’s only an hour, so let’s save some time and do it the quick way.
Pick up a rental car (which you’ll need for the rest of this trip anyways) and try to get to the Cape by 10:00 AM, before the heavy crowds arrive, so that you can really feel the raw power of the Atlantic Ocean as it crashes against the cliffs. The view alone is worth the trip.
There are some little paths and hiking trails around the lighthouse/cape, some of which provide even higher vantage points, so you can either do a bit of walking or just drive right up to the lighthouse and and enjoy the view from there. Up at the very top of the hill above the Cape are the ruins of the San Guillerme Hermitage and the Monte Facho ridge - a former pagan ritual site that is also the place where some pilgrims used to burn their clothes and boots to mark the end of their journey.
Afterward, head down into the town of Finisterre itself and wander through its streets, bars, and shops. Be sure to chat with the locals, who, if you ask, will tell you stories of the famous shipwrecks, disappeared sailors, and many dark legends that this stretch of rough and wild coastline - the Costa da Morte (the “Coast of Death”) - has given rise to.
The town doesn’t have any big sights, but the Iglesia de Santa María das Areas is worth checking out, as is the hilltop Castelo de San Carlos, which is now a fishing museum. It’s a neat defensive fortification with nice seaside views. And since this is Galicia, you should of course make your way down to the port to see the still-active fishing boats.
The story of Galicia is the story of the ocean, and there’s no better place to feel that connection than here. And if you want to taste it too, have lunch at Tira do Cordel - arguably the best place in Spain for grilled seabass.
The town of Finisterre. Photo: Adrián Estévez (gl:User:Estevoaei), CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon – Head south from Finistere along the Costa da Morte
After lunch, it’s time to get up close and personal with the spectacular coastline that is the Costa da Morte. This is one of the wildest and rawest areas in Galicia, which is saying something for a region known for its rough coastline and turbulent seas. It’s such a surprise for most people, who almost exclusively think of Spanish beaches as the calm and tranquil ones of the country’s south.
So, for the afternoon I’ve got you heading south, eventually to the town of Muros which is only an hours’ drive away, but with a bunch of stops before you get there:
The first one is O Ézaro, a town holding the only river in Europe that plunges directly into the ocean as a waterfall. You can park nearby and walk to it easily, and you’ll also have great views of Monte Pindo, a dramatic 2,000-foot peak that rises straight up from the Atlantic Ocean. There’s also a magnificent vista over the town and sea from the Mirador de Ézaro.
From there, keep following the coastline and you’ll soon reach the town of Carnota, whose long, windswept white sand beach feels almost Californian due to its scale. It’s one of my favorite beaches in Galicia, so make sure to spend some time here.
Just behind the beach is the longest hórreo (traditional stone grain storehouse) in Galicia, and right next door to it is the simple and austere Church of Santa Comba de Carnota. There’s nothing all that special about either of these sights, but they make for a fairly classic Galician scene - storehouses and churches side by side.
From Carnota, continue on to another two vast vast beaches that I love: the Praia de Lariño and the Praia da Area Maior. They’re pretty similar to Carnota, so you don’t need to swim at either if you don’t feel like more time at the beach, but you should absolutely stop and take in the spectacular views for a bit. There’s also a lagoon and nature preserve just behind the Praia da Area Maior, so it’s a good spot to stretch your legs and take in some great scenery.
Very close by to Praia da Area Maior is the Monte Louro Lighthouse, where you can park the car and then do an easy little climb up the “mountain”, which will give you wonderful views over the beach and surrounding area.
Praia de Area Maior. Photo: Luis Miguel Bugallo Sánchez (Lmbuga), CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Evening - Muros and Noia
To wrap up the day, cruise on over to Muros, a very pretty little port town that I think is as close as you can get to the quintessential Galician fishing village. Its narrow alleys, old stone houses, and drying fishing nets that you’ll see all over town simply evoke the tranquility and charm of a bygone era. It’s the perfect place to wind down after a day of road tripping and beach hopping, and a stay here will help you understand why Galicia and the ocean are inseparable.
I should be clear that Muros is very small though, so for anyone who gets through the plan above very quickly and arrives here with a lot of time in the day left, you’ll probably find yourself getting a little antsy.
In that case, if you head another 30 minutes southeast you’ll reach the town of Noia, which is a fair deal bigger than Muros and has a much livelier atmosphere. It also has a pretty, largely pedestrianized historic center, so you could easily spend the rest of the afternoon/evening there and then return to Muros a bit later on. You could even stay in Noia, but I find the atmosphere in Muros to be more charming.
Overnight in Muros
The pretty little town of Muros. Photo: L. Miguel Bugallo Sánchez, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Day 4 - The Rias Baixas: Padrón, Illa de Arousa and Cambados
Looking out over the Arousa Island, with the Faro de Punta Cabalo in the distance. Photo: Joergsam, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning – Padrón and the Illa de Arousa
The Galician coast stretches for around 1,000 miles, thanks to its endless supply of capes, estuaries, inlets, and other geographical quirks. This means constant change - in the beaches, in the landscape, even in the light and the weather. And after yesterday’s rugged, wind-battered Costa da Morte, today you’ll get to experience something entirely different: the soft, sheltered beauty of the Rías Baixas.
Leave Muros early, around 8:30 AM, and follow the coastal road as it winds inland and southward. About an hour into the drive, make a stop in Padrón, a small riverside town most famous for two things: pimientos de Padrón (those small, blistered green peppers that are usually mild, but not always, and when they’re not hot, they’re very hot!) and Galician literature. This was the hometown of Rosalía de Castro and the place where, according to legend, the boat carrying the remains of Saint James came ashore.
You won’t need long in Padrón, just enough time to walk the short riverside promenade, check out the Santiago-themed sculpture near the church, and, most importantly, grab a snack of fresh Padrón peppers, ideally sprinkled with sea salt and paired with a glass of something cold.
From there, it’s only another 40 minutes or so to Illa de Arousa, one of the most underrated spots in the entire Rías Baixas. The island is just 3 square miles, linked to the mainland by a short bridge, but it’s packed with everything that makes this part of Galicia special: secluded coves shaded by pine trees, fishing culture everywhere you look (docks, boats, neighborhoods with drying nets and shellfish crates), and some of the freshest seafood you’ll find anywhere in the world.
Here is what I suggest for your visit: rent a kayak and go for a little trip around the island stopping in every cove and beach you feel like, many of which will be uncrowded even in high season. If you don’t want to kayak, that’s of course fine, but the plan is much the same: just cruise around the island hopping from one beach to the next, taking in the views, and, if you want to get active, hiking on the various trails (the trail from the town’s port up to the Faro de Punta Cabalo is always nice).
At some point, be sure to head to the Carreirón Natural Park at the southern tip of the island, where you can take pleasant little walks through the woods, watch birds in the wetlands, and stretch out on more quiet beaches and remote coves.
Whenever you find that you’re getting hungry, I’d recommend a seafood lunch paired with local white wine at Tapería A Chabola, right alongside the island’s port.
The town of Padrón. Photo: Fran Villena, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A little harbor and the main town on the Island of Arousa. Photo: Luis Miguel Bugallo Sánchez (Lmbuga), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon/evening – Cambados
After lunch, get a caffeine kick with the almost mandatory midday coffee, and then continue on exploring the island. It doesn’t much matter what time you leave Arousa, but whenever you’re ready to return to civilization, there is no better place for a gradual transition back to urban reality than Cambados, one of my favorite villages in the Rías Baixas.
This town offers up the perfect blend of modernistic architecture, the best Galician wineries (from the very famous Martín Códax to little family-run ones like Bodega Gil Armada), and beautiful historic places like the church of Saint Benito, the Saint Francis Convent, and the evocative ruins of the church of Santa Mariña de Dozo - a perfect example of the importance of stone in Galician religious architecture. There are also lots of gorgeous old manor houses here (called pazos), which are simply lovely.
Beyond that, I have no other recommendations for you, because this is somewhere that should just be enjoyed and savored. It’s not a place to tick off sights or rush about madly, which I think is perfect. So wander around, lounge in the leafy squares, take a seat anywhere that looks good and try the best Galician Albariño (the typical wine from the Rías Baixas), and end your day munching on some raciones in the center of the village.
Of course, I know not everyone likes a lazy afternoon like this, so you could also do some winery hopping if that’s something you’re interested in. This area has tons of wineries, many of them housed in renovated beautiful old manor houses, some even have gardens to explore, and lots will have very good restaurants too. You can literally just pull up Google Maps, type in “wineries”, and you’ll find tons of spots within 20 minutes of town.
Alternatively, within a 10-minute drive is the trailhead of the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua, a 7-mile out and back hiking trail that runs along the Armenteira river. The whole thing would take you around 3 hours, but you could easily head over and just do a little part of it. The scenery is lovely.
Overnight in Cambados
The ruins of the Church of Santa Mariña Dozo. Photo: Lmbuga, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
The Convento de San Francisco in Cambados. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Day 5 - Pontevedra and the Morrazo Peninsula
The beautiful Praza de Leña in Pontevedra. Photo: Luis Miguel Bugallo Sánchez, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning – A wander through Pontevedra
Ok, it’s now city time again and for that I’ve got you headed off to Pontevedra today! I’ve got a pretty busy day planned for you, so I’d suggest leaving Cambados fairly early, no later than 9:00 AM.
A half-hour drive will see you arriving in to Pontevedra, which is one of the cities that best exemplifies Galicia’s connection to the sea and its importance to medieval maritime traffic and trade (this city served as basically a mandatory stop on almost all European voyages to Africa and the Americas).
Before we get into things, park your car and go fuel up at Café Centro, which is very close to Church of the Pilgrim Virgin and eponymous square. Here, in this church and on this square, the ancient story of this city began, so it’s the perfect place to start your tour. The church is also an iconic landmark, lying along the Portuguese Way of St. James, and standing out for its extremely unusual design (whose floor plan is laid out in the form of a scallop shell).
From the square, you’ll reach the San Francisco Convent in just a few steps. The convent is one of the other main architectural jewels of the city, built between 1310 and 1360 by order of Francis of Assisi, who passed through here on his way to Santiago de Compostela from Portugal. Next up of course is the third and final pearl of Pontevedra: the monumental Basilica of Santa Maria la Mayor, built in the gothic style in the 1500’s.
With those three major sights “out of the way”, I’d spend the rest of the morning just exploring this lovely town. Pontevedra has received a lot of publicity in recent years because they completely banned cars throughout the entirety of the city center. This means that you never need to worry about traffic or honking horns while exploring the town, and it’s a delight to meander about in.
So let yourself get lost in the many alleys and squares of the Old Town. making sure of course to stop off at the almost impossibly cute Praza da Leña and similarly lovely Praza de Curros Enriquez, stop for as many drinks as you want (they always come with generous free tapas servings here), and to cap it all off, pay a visit to the bucolic Illa das Esculturas (the Sculptures’ Island), which sits right beside the river.
Praza de Curros Enriquez. Photo: Luis Miguel Bugallo Sánchez, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon – Road trip around the Morrazo Peninsula and onward to Vigo
Once you’ve finished your sightseeing, grab lunch somewhere in the old town and then prepare to say goodbye to Pontevedra. This is a gorgeous town, but it’s very small, so you should have no problem seeing/doing everything above in the morning.
And it’s really, really worth heading onward for the afternoon, because Pontevedra lies close by to some of the very best beaches in Europe. And despite this being Galicia, I promise that’s not an exaggeration! So hop in the car and get ready to tour the stunningly beautiful Morrazo Peninsula.
Point yourself in the direction of Bueu, one of the many little fishing and resort towns on the peninsula that I really like. As you make your way to the town and then beyond, you’ll feel as if you’ve been transported to the Caribbean Sea (although the freezing cold water might remind you otherwise!).
Here, in the Morrazo, the plan is to have no plan; just enjoy the drive along the scenic roads, stopping wherever you feel like to admire the views, the pretty little towns, and to dip into the sea. There are countless beautiful beaches here, ranging from wide and sandy to rocky little coves, so you are really entirely spoiled for choice. You can and should basically spend the entire day just hopping between them, but here are a few suggestions (of beaches and other sights)":
For calm waters, go for a swim in Pinténs beach.
If you prefer something a little more wild, slip into the rough and untamed waters at Melide Beach, right next to Cabo de Home, with its lighthouse and seaside walking trails.
Climb up Monte Facho, from whose summit you’ll have unbeatable views of the Cíes Islands.
And always, always, stop in Cangas de Morrazo, an ever-popular little summer resort town that has a great sandy beach, picturesque boardwalk, pretty little town center, and great restaurants, bars and cafes.
My biggest piece of advice is just to take your time here and soak everything in. I’d recommend staying through the evening, at which point you can set off just a bit forther south across the Ría to the city of Vigo, where you’ll be spending the night.
To get to Vigo, you’ll cross another major attraction of the peninsula, the Ponte de Rande, which is a 1,600-meter long suspension bridge that has been called “the Galician Golden Gate”. The views are exceptional, particularly if you time your crossing at sunset, when you’ll catch the sun dipping behind the Cíes Island, which is where you’re headed tomorrow!
Overnight in Vigo
The Faro de Cabo Home lighthouse. Photo: Javier Torres Pereira, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
Melide Beach. Photo: Javier Torres Pereira, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
Cangas de Morrazo. Photo: Luis Miguel Bugallo Sánchez (Lmbuga), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Day 6 - Vigo and the Illas Cíes
Plaza de la Constitución in Vigo’s Casco Vello. Photo: Alexleiro, CC BY-SA 3.0 ES, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning – An early wander in Vigo’s Old Town, departure for the Cíes Islands
Vigo is the largest city in Galicia, and if you want to get even a small taste of it before heading out to the Cíes Islands, you’ll need an early start. So plan to be out and about by 8:00 AM and head straight to the Casco Vello, Vigo’s old town.
Until recently, this area was in pretty rough shape, with most buildings in varying states of disrepair. But the past couple of decades have seen major renovation efforts and the area has very quickly sprung back to life. It’s now pretty and atmospheric, with old granite houses, narrow alleyways, and pleasant little squares (like Plaza de la Constitución).
You’ve only got about two hours before you need to catch the ferry over to the islands, but that should give you enough time to see a decent chunk of the old town. Much of the city will still be asleep this early, and it can be very pleasant to explore before it gets busy. Vigo doesn’t really have big sights that you absolutely must see, so it doesn’t much matter where you go here. It’s just a pretty area that’s nice to stroll about it.
At some point, be sure to snag a coffee and a good, hearty breakfast at Vitruvia Café. Then pick up some sandwiches and picnic supplies, because the rest of your morning and afternoon will be spent at one of the most incredible natural wonders in the Iberian Peninsula - the Cíes Islands, the very same islands that you saw off on the horizon all day during your drive yesterday.
Plan to be at the Maritime Station (Estación Marítima de Ría) by 9:45 AM to catch the 10:15 ferry. Tickets can sell out, especially in summer, so it’s essential to book in advance, which you can do here: https://www.mardeons.es/gl/precios-y-horarios. Just note that ferry times vary with the season, with reduced crossings outside of summer. The boat ride takes about 40 minutes so you should be on the island by about 11:00 AM.
I guarantee you’ll be stunned by how beautiful these islands are, and it’s no exaggeration when I saw they’re one of the most beautiful places in the Iberian peninsula. In fact, the British newspaper The Guardian once named the beach of Rodas, which is found here, to be the best beach in the world. But there’s more here than “just” beaches: these are paradisiacal islands of forests, white-sand beaches, wildlife, and water so clear and blue you’ll think it’s fake!
The Cíes Islands. Photo: Luis Cayola, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon – Beaches and hiking on the Cíes Islands
I suggest two main activities here: some hiking and some beach lounging. There are a number of very nice hiking routes which will take you from the port (where the ferry arrives) to the many different lighthouses, capes, and beaches spread about the islands.
They’re mostly pretty short, so you could realistically do multiple of them, but if I had to choose only one, I’d go for the Cíes Lighthouse Route (you can find a map and description of the trail via the link above). It’s a 4.5-mile loop trail that ends at the main lighthouse, offering exceptional views of the Rías Baixas and Vigo. The trail out to the Faro do Peito takes you in the other direction, so if you’re very active, you could do both and see some different vistas and sides to the islands.
After the hike(s) (or before - however you prefer), you must absolutely spend some time on the incredibly beautiful Rodas Beach. This is the most famous one on the islands, and it really does live up to the hype, with its fine white sand, dunes backed by pine trees, and Lago dos Nenos lagoon right behind. The water is absolutely freezing, so you’ll have to be tough if you want to get in, but you should, because this is an unforgettable experience. It’s also the perfect spot for a picnic, so break out those supplies and eat your lunch here.
There are plenty of other good beaches here of course, like Praia de Nosa Señora, Praia das Figueiras, and Praia de Areña, among others, and you can easily spend the better part of the day just lounging on them, hiking, and exploring.
Looking out over Playa de Rodas. Photo: Javier Albertos, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Praia das Figueiras. Photo: Mário José Martins, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Lago dos Nenos. Photo: Javier Albertos, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening - a few more sights in Vigo
I’d suggest catching a late afternoon/early evening ferry back to Vigo, as this is a cool little city that still has more for you to see.
Once you arrive to the port, catch a cab and head straight to Bouzas, a lovely neighborhood on the city’s western edge. This was once a separate town, but this former fishing village was incorporated into the city almost a century ago and I think it’s the perfect representation of what Vigo was before it rose to prominence (due to the shipping industry) and became the bustling Liverpool of Spain.
Bouzas has a nice seaside promenade, some really lovely historic architecture, and some of the best seafood restaurants in Vigo, so it’s a great place to spend the early evening. Go for a stroll, explore the neighborhood, wander along the boardwalk (and maybe take a dip in its urban beach), and sample some excellent seafood.
After that, call another cab to take you back to Vigo’s center, getting out at the Alameda da Praza de Compostela, which is a very pretty tree-lined park/promenade. Some of the city’s best hotels are here, and there are lots of outdoor terraces and restaurants around it.
From there, I’d suggest heading up to the Parque Monte do Castro, the hilltop park that rises high above the city and affords great views over it and out to the sea. The Castelo do Castro fortress, is also here, on the same site where prehistoric ruins and a medieval castle once stood. If you time it right, you should be getting here at sunset, when the views are truly spectacular.
The Cíes Islands in front of you, the bridge of Rande on your right, and the border with Portugal on your left. Save this picture in your mind and say goodbye to the Atlantic Ocean for now, because tomorrow you’re heading inland to discover a very different side of Galicia.
Once you’ve had your fill of the vista, it’s time for dinner, and right behind Monte de Castro is one of my favorite restaurants in town: Pata Negra. Less seafood focused than lots of other spots in this city, I love this place and always enjoy the hearty, traditional meals they serve.
Overnight in Vigo
The Iglesia de Bouzas and its little urban beach. Photo: farrangallo, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The internal garden in the Castro Fortress. Photo: Pablofcn, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The view from Parque Monte de Castro. Photo: Zarateman, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Day 7 - El Cañon del Sil and the Ribeira Sacra
A stretch of the Sil Canyon
Morning and afternoon – A full-day trip through the Cañon del Sil and Ribeira Sacra area
Galicia has always lived in a very close relation with the ocean, but that doesn’t mean that all its features and recommended spots are on the coast —not at all. In fact, probably one of the best hidden gems of nature in northern Spain, named the Cañon del Sil, is an hour drive inland from Vigo.
The Sil Canyon is a gorge that covers the last 35 miles of the Sil river before it enters the Miño River. An impressive, breathtaking landscape chosen by monks from many centuries ago to be the area to retire from the worldly life. An area full of nature, huge cliffs, and spiritual peace. A zone that on its impossibly steep slopes has grown some of the most interesting wines - Godello and Mencía - in a truly heroic effort. heroic manner.
I think a visit to this inland area is especially worthwhile because it presents such a different look at Galicia from the coastal areas that you’ve been traipsing along so far. A rural area, the scenery is the main draw here, and there are an almost countless number of gorgeous viewpoints to stop off at while you cruise along.
But there’s much more to do than just look out the windows! This is a big hiking destination, and you’ll find trails of varying length and difficulty all along the river. You can also do some prime birdwatching here, and as I mentioned before, as this is an area that monks have long “retired to”, you’ll also find a ton of neat monasteries that are well worth checking out. And of course, this is a renowned wine producing region too, so you could easily even spend the entire day just hopping from one vineyard to the next. Like I said, lots of options!
For a more comprehensive dive into the area, check out the region’s official tourism site, which has tons of great info: https://turismo.ribeirasacra.org/en/the-sil-canyon
Now, while you can totally explore the region entirely independently, a boat trip along the river is basically non-negotiable (it would be insane to skip!), and for that I always recommend the local company Viajes Hemisferios, which is the biggest operator in the region. They have a really wide selection of tours, ranging from 1.5-hour cruises by catamaran to full-day tours that combine a river cruise with overland transportation to a winery, lunch, monastery visits, and stops at various great viewpoints.
Their tours depart from the Santo Estevo pier, and you can view their offerings and timetables at the link I included above.
Regardless of how you opt to visit this area, here are some places not to be missed:
Viewpoints: Balcones de Madrid, Cabezoás, and A Capela (there are tons more though)
Monasteries: Monastery of Santo Estevo, Monastery of San Pedro de Rocas, Monastery of Santa María de Xunqueira de Espadanedo, Monastery of Santa Cristina
Wineries: There are 30+ wineries in this area, so It would be absurd to even try to name them all or suggest which ones to go to. Instead, I’d suggest just stopping off at any that you come across on your route or find nearby to it. Here’s a map showing where they’re laid out across the region: https://turismo.ribeirasacra.org/en/visits-to-wineries
Hikes: Again, there are countless great hiking spots and trails here that will take you through gorgeous, heavily forested terrain. Lots of the hikes are pretty long (10 km+), so you could easily dedicate half a day to hiking. I’ll again refer you to the excellent regional tourism website for detailed overviews of the many options: https://turismo.ribeirasacra.org/en/hiking-in-the-sil-canyon
The Canyon and river seen from the Vilouxe viewpoint. Photo: Fernando, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Grape vines growing on the steep slops of the Ribeira Sacra region near the canyon. Photo: Ramon Piñeiro, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Evening - Dinner with a view at Vértigo (and maybe an evening stroll in Ourense)
And, finally, it is time to relax. And no worries, you don’t have to look for a place to do it, I got it for you.
Right over the Sil Canyon, there is the Winery and Restaurant Vértigo. Don’t ask, don’t try to anticipate anything, just trust me. Go there prepared to try the best Galician wines and the best Galician food, to watch the best views of the gorge that lies many meters behind you.
Go to Vértigo prepared to the best end of the way you could ask for and let yourself flow on your goodbye with Galicia.
After dinner, you can opt to stay out in the countryside near the canyon (there are plenty of really lovely hotels in this area), or you can make the 50-minute drive to Ourense, which is the nearest city/significant town of note. This is completely personal preference, but unless you’re planning to spend additional time in this area, I’d opt to stay over in Ourense even though it’s a bit of a drive, as staying there will let you enjoy a nighttime stroll through its pretty town center and a morning walk around town the next day.
Overnight in the Ribeira Sacra area or Ourense
Ourense, with its Roman bridge. Photo: Victor Hermida Prada, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
More Spain travel info
For more advice on planning your trip to Galicia and Spain, have a look at some of our other guides and itineraries!
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