A Local’s Guide to Peneda-Gerês National Park, Portugal
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Peneda-Gerês is the only national park in Portugal and when you’re looking to escape into nature, there’s nowhere better to go in the entire country. Covering over 70,000 hectares (270 square miles) and encompassing around 20 rural villages, this is Northern Portugal at its most glorious: untouched and naturally stunning.
Peneda-Gerês is a sparsely populated mountainous region covered in lush forests, postcard-like waterfalls, rivers, and a great diversity of plants and animals. Add in a few campgrounds, countless scenic viewpoints, some great hiking trails, and an abundance of opportunity for adventure sports, and you’ve got just about everything the park has to offer.
As a lifelong Peneda-Gerês adventurer, I’ve spent many summer days crisscrossing the park and getting lost in its wilderness, along with tons of other outdoor-loving Portuguese. However, despite being very well-known to and beloved by locals, few international visitors find their way here during their trips to Portugal.
And while I'm happy that the park has, for the most part, been ignored in favor of trendier Portuguese destinations (that's why it's managed to keep its authenticity), I also think it's too spectacular of a destination to be kept to ourselves. Peneda-Gerês is big enough for everyone, which is why I want to share more about it with you, my fellow travelers and explorers!
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Table of Contents
Why visit?
Where is Peneda-Gerês National Park?
When to visit
How long to spend
Areas of the park & logistics of visiting
Where to stay
What to see and do
Best hikes in the park
Restaurants and dining
Why visit?
While Peneda-Gerês is nowhere near as popular of a tourist destination as places like the Algarve, Lisbon, or Porto, it's still very well-known within Portugal and is fairly extensively visited by domestic tourists. They flock to the park during the warmer months of the year to enjoy its mountain hikes, to swim in its countless small rivers and lakes, and get a feel for what it's like to be surrounded by nature.
In line with that, the park is ideal for camping, practicing outdoor sports, enjoying leisurely summer activities, and taking gorgeous photos.
While this has been an officially protected area since 1997, people have been living in the region since at least the Roman times (and likely earlier), back when Braga, the closest large city, was still known by its original Latin name of Bracara Augusta. For this reason, Peneda-Gerês is nothing like the big American-style national parks where the entire territory is preserved and there can be no development.
Although the park is sparsely populated, as I mentioned above, it's home even today to plenty of small villages where people still live. Of course, you’ll also find Medieval and Roman-era monuments too, owing to the long history of human settlement here. This ensures that the park is not only interesting to outdoor enthusiasts, but also to anyone who's interested in history and archaeology.
So, while there’s a lot to see and do here, for me, Peneda-Gerês is first and foremost a place to relax. If you're tired of car horns and constant noise and activity, if you feel stressed about work, or just wish to escape "everyday" life, just hop in the car and head to the park, leaving your modern-day worries behind.
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Where is Peneda-Gerês?
Peneda-Gerês is in Northern Portugal, sitting between the city of Braga, to the west, and the Spanish border, to the east. The park is about 100 kilometers northeast of Porto, and at its nearest point, is about 1.5 or 2 hours away by car.
Despite having administrative autonomy, the territory of the Park encompasses three different Portuguese municipalities: Braga, Viana do Castelo, and Vila Real.
Inside the Park itself, Vila Real's municipality of Montalegre is the largest "urban" center, followed by villages such as Terras de Bouro, Ponte da Barca, and Arcos de Valdevez.
Sitting just outside the southwest border of Peneda-Gerês, the city of Braga is the main gateway to the Park, and Braga locals are accustomed to visiting the park on day trips because they can venture in and back in the same day or even just an afternoon.
A bit further away from the main attractions in Gerês, Viana do Castelo is also relatively conveniently close by.
When to visit
Photo: SofiaGMussolin, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
May, June, and September are the best months to visit Peneda-Gerês because the weather is warm but not unpleasantly hot (although it rarely gets too hot even in the height of summer), the days are long and mostly sunny, and each of these months avoids the summer crowds, which can make exploring trails and nature more generally a bit less pleasant and serene.
During July and August, Portuguese locals living in the surrounding cities usually take their vacations, and the tend to flock to the park in huge numbers during this time. Sometimes, the best-known waterfalls in Gerês (including the ones that are difficult to access) are so full that you can’t even find a proper place to sit down.
This happens because Peneda-Gerês makes for an affordable alternative to the beach, attracting vacationing Portuguese families that don’t have the money (or desire) to go to the Algarve or other pricier destinations,
Here’s a quick overview of what you need to know about visiting the park during each season:
The best time to visit? The late spring/early summer - May and June - and the late summer/early fall - September -. Each of these months is warm and provides great weather for hiking and outdoor exploration, but without the crowds of July and August.
Visiting in the early fall (October): This is the perfect time for experienced campers and outdoor sports enthusiasts, as long as you don’t mind a little rain. The crowds are minimal at this time, so you’ll get to experience the park almost all to yourself.
Visiting in the late fall and winter (November to March): Peneda-Gerês can be pretty harsh between November and March, as the days are short, the temperatures are pretty chilly, and you’ll have many days with grey skies and plenty of rain.
This is definitely not a great time for hiking, but it can be nice if you just want to rent a nice little cabin the mountains and enjoy a cozy winter escape from the city.
Visiting in the spring (mid March to May): While springtime is very pleasant in the southern parts of Portugal, it’s a bit more questionable here in the north. You could have sunny days and very warm weather, or you could have lots of clouds and lots of rain - it’s impossible to predict, although if you had to bet, you should always assume there will be some rain.
Even so, this can be a nice time to visit the park as it’s usually warm enough to go camping, and you can do plenty of nice hikes, so long as you don’t mind potentially muddy trails.
Visiting in the peak summer months (July and August): Solely from a weather perspective, Peneda-Gerês is a bonafide paradise in July and August, as you will have warm weather, long sunny days, and beautiful landscapes all around you.
However, because it’s so nice during this period, it’s also very popular, meaning that lots of the park’s iconic trails and sights can be quite crowded. If you favor peace and quiet over ideal weather conditions, you should avoid the park during this time.
On the flip side, if you don’t mind some crowds and want almost guaranteed good weather, this is the time to come.
How long to spend here
Peneda-Gerês is huge, at least for parks in Portugal, and you could easily spend days exploring it. However, assuming you don’t have unlimited time in your itinerary, a full day (a very full one) is enough to get a nice overview of the park and see some of its main attractions.
There are just two requirements for a successful day trip here: you need to get an early start in the morning (no later than 8 AM, in my opinion), and you must have a car.
Most of the main attractions in the park are within an hour of each other, so you can see quite a lot of different landscapes and areas in a full day, but you will need your own car in order to travel between them
If you’re staying the surrounding cities (Braga, Viana do Castelo, Vila Real), you’ll be quite close to the park, whereas if you’re coming from Porto, you’ll have around a 2-hour drive, so should plan to start your day even earlier.
Here's my suggested one-day Peneda-Gerês itinerary, starting early in the morning and going until dinnertime:
1 Day in Peneda-Gerês
Drive to the submerged village of Vilarinho da Furna to see the ruins of a now-extinct village, then venture into the woods to find the dreamy waterfall of Arado (search for 'Cascata do Arado' on Google Maps), and take a quick hike out to the falls.
After, refresh yourself at Alqueirão River Beach, and grab lunch at Pólo Norte restaurant.
Next, move on to the Barragem da Caniçada, where you can do some water sports or just enjoy the nice weather. Then, make your way to the idyllic Mata de Albergaria, which is directly connected to the Via Nova Roman Road. Hike along the Roman Road for a bit, and then head back to your car and continue on to the charming traditional village of Pitões das Júnias.
As the sun starts to set, drive over to Sol e Chuva restaurant and reward your self after a big day with a hearty meal.
Note: for other interesting experiences that you could add into your itinerary, check out the “Things to see & do section” below.
Areas of the park and logistics of visiting
An overview of the park
Peneda-Gerês is not a national park like what you’d find in the United States, for example. It isn’t an “enclosed” area that is fully managed by a single agency or entity and in which everything is protected park land. Rather, it’s an administrative area that encompasses some protected natural areas as well as towns that people still live in today. Many people have houses here and live right within the park’s boundaries, and for them, this is home, not a “park”.
Because of this, the park has no opening or closing hours. In theory, it is always open. Of course, this is not to say that there are no rules within the park. Peneda-Gerês is policed by the Institute for Nature Conservation and Forests (ICNF), who provides support to park visitors and oversight to ensure that nobody is endangering the preserved areas.
Keep in mind that cellphone reception can be limited or downright non-existent in certain areas of the park, so be sure someone always knows where you’re going, and be mindful to plan your routes and have a map (either a physical one or offline maps that you’ve downloaded on your phone).
Peneda-Gerês comprises more than 20 small villages and municipalities, and there are no clear divisions of the different “areas” in the park. However, there are two fundamental types of terrain that you’ll find here: Dry mountainous areas with small lakes and U-shaped valleys, and lush forests with small rivers and occasional hiking paths.
Golden eagles, wolves, and Iberan desmans (an endangered semiaquatic mammal resembling a mole) are some of the coolest animals roaming in the park, which is also rich in river fish such as salmon and trout.
Entrance points
Despite not having distinctive administrative areas, Peneda-Gerês has five entrance points, known as Park Gates. These are useful reference points because they were made to serve as welcome centers to the park and they’re filled with informative resources.
Here’s a quick overview of each of them:
Lamas de Mouro (Melgaço): Close to the Spanish border in the northeast of the country, this is the ideal entryway to the park for anyone who's traveling from Galicia (Spain). There's a nice campground nearby called Parque de Campismo Lamas de Mouro.
Mezio (Arcos de Valdevez): Also close to the Spanish border, but further south, this park gate sits not far away from Lobios, a really nice thermal destination that’s just outside of the park’s boundaries. In the summer, you can find lots of young people relaxing at the Lobios' natural pools, sometimes until late in the evening.
Lindoso (Ponte da Barca): Super close to the Mezio Gate, the Lindoso Gate is favored by many visitors because of the growing number of tourist resources found in the traditional (and mostly uninhabited) village of Lindoso, which is now home to several rural-tourism houses and typical restaurants.
Campo do Gerês (Terras de Bouro): The ideal entryway to the park for anyone who's traveling here from Braga. It's also super close to Vilarinho da Furna, one of the most interesting attractions in the park.
Montalegre (Montalegre): Unlike the other gates, the Montalegre Gate sits in the middle of the park, not close to one of its borders. It's found near the municipality of Montalegre, which is the most densely populated area in the region.
Parking
Fortunately, I don't remember ever seeing a parking lot in Peneda-Gerês, and parking in the area is very easy! All you have to do is find a safe spot near the side of the road where there’s ample space to pull over - just make sure you’re well off the road and aren’t parking in the middle of a curve or something like that.
In my experience, many people park very badly and end up blocking roads and small pathways, so please don't do this.
Restaurants and shops
Souvenir shops are a rarity in Peneda-Gerês, but restaurants are abundant. The region is mainly known for its production of Barrosã meat, from the Barrosã cattle raised in specific rural areas of Braga and Vila Real. This meat is known for its tenderness and exceptional taste, but especially for being produced by small cattle owners who still raise cows the traditional way (which is also far more humane).
If you eat meat, do not miss out on the chance to try this, as it will be the tastiest beef you ever have! In the last section of this article, you can find a selection of my favorite restaurants in the park (and yes, they all serve meat).
Facilities in the park
For better or worse, Peneda-Gerês doesn't have much infrastructure. Popular attractions such as the Tahiti waterfall, for example, don't have any pathways or safety structures in place, despite attracting hundreds of people every day in the busiest months of the summer.
There are public bathrooms here and there, but they're not very common. On the one hand, this lack of infrastructure is great because it preserves the park's natural beauty, but it also means that some hikes and swimming spots can be hard to find/access, and in some cases, downright dangerous.
Where to stay when visiting the park
Photo: Clarisse Cunha, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Camping/glamping inside the Park
There are several camping locations to choose from, with the overall best being Lima Escape Camping & Glamping. Setting up a tent costs up to €12 per night, while glamping accommodations cost up to €85 per night for two people.
For a budget option, check out the little-known Parque de Campismo de Penedones, near Montalegre.
For cabins, I recommend Pichoses Gerês Camping, costing roughly €50-60 per night (depending on the season). They have a swimming pool and the little bungalows feel super cozy even during the coldest months of the year.
Hotels in the park’s boundaries
If you want to stay at a comfortable hotel with all the fundamental amenities, look for accommodation near Parque das Termas, in Terras de Bouro. Terras do Bouro is a small town that has a few stores and services, and is quite close to the main attractions in the park.
If you want to stay around Montalegre, I recommend searching for houses and apartments on Airbnb, as you can easily rent a house with a swimming pool for €100-€150 per night.
The Águas do Gerês thermal hotel is one of the most popular choices for Portuguese visitors, while Agrinho Suites & Spa Gerês, next to Barragem da Caniçada, makes for an affordable luxury experience just 30 kilometers outside of Braga.
Staying in the nearby cities (Braga, Viana do Castelo, Vila Real)
The main cities surrounding Peneda-Gerês are tourist destinations themselves, and boast a fine selection of luxury hotels, low-cost options, and everything in between. If you base yourself in one of these cities, however, make sure you have a car to explore the park.
Braga - I recommend the luxurious Meliã Braga (€162 per night) and the Ibis Hotel in the city center (€50 per night).
Viana do Castelo - Go for the Hotel FeelViana, with bungalows and a hot tub (€270 per night), or the low-key Axis Viana (€80 per night).
Vila Real - Check out the MW Douro Wine & Spa (€120 per night) or the Borralha Hotel (€80-90 per night).
How to choose which area to stay
Braga, Viana do Castelo, and Vila Real: in these surrounding cities, you get a lot of different hotels to choose from and access to as many stores and services as you need. On the other hand, you will be effectively sleeping outside of the park, which can take away from the experience of being "lost" in nature.
Ponte da Barca, Arcos de Valdevez, and Montalegre: these smaller municipalities are within the park itself and have a reasonable amount of accommodations, with the added advantage of being close to Peneda-Gerês' natural attractions.
Pichoses: Pichoses is the closest municipality to São Bentinho da Porta Aberta, the best-known religious site in the Park, and it makes for one of the best places to base yourself in Peneda-Gerês. You still get that feeling of being "lost" in nature, but you also get a small village with well-maintained roads, cool cafés, and plenty of traditional restaurants.
Parque das Termas (Terras de Bouro): If you’re up for a bit of luxury, booking one of the premium hotels outside of the Parque das Termas, in Terras de Bouro, will be one of the best decisions of your Peneda-Gerês trip.
Outside of these more densely populated areas, you can still find some hotels and campgrounds, but be aware that they will be fairly isolated. There's nothing wrong with this (I actually think it’s part of the appeal), and going somewhere like the Parque de Campismo de Penedones and spending a whole weekend there is a great experience in its own right.
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What to see & do in Peneda-Gerês
1. Visit the underwater village of Vilarinho da Furna
In the 1970’s, the Portuguese Government decided to build a dam in Vilarinho da Furna, a former village of Campo do Gerês. As a result, the town was deserted and largely submerged, leaving just a few ruins remaining.
During the warmer months of the year, when the dam doesn't have as much water, what's left of Vilarinho da Furna is accessible to visitors, who can roam through its "streets" and imagine what life must've been like in this now-extinct village.
With decent roads leading to the dam and a small dirt path that continues on to the actual site of Vilarinho da Furna, this is a really unique and easily accessed attraction within the park.
To learn more about the town and the traditions and customs of the people of Gerês, you can also pay a quick visit to the nearby Ethnographic Museum.
Vilarinha da Furna. Photo: Daniela Goreti Batista Morence, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Go for a swim in the Alqueirão River beach (and other locations)
During the summer and - if you're lucky - late spring months, Peneda-Gerês is the perfect spot for sunbathing and having a refreshing swim. In addition to small lakes, waterfalls, and swimmable dams, the park boasts a decent number of river beaches as well
The best of them all? The Alqueirão River Beach, or Praia Fluvial do Alqueirão, in Portuguese. This river beach is outstanding because it's extremely safe (sadly, a rarity in Peneda-Gerês), has a long stretch of white sand, and is surrounded by beautiful spots where locals often have family picnics. It's also super close to Vilarinho da Furna, meaning you easily visit both sights together.
In case you find yourself elsewhere in the park and are in need of a swim, here are three nice alternatives in the municipality of Vieira do Minho:
Barca River Beach: With plenty of parking spots and convenient amenities such as a bathroom and a snack bar, Barca River Beach has some of the cleanest swimming waters in Peneda-Gerês.
Campos River Beach: Found next to the traditional small villages of Campos and Lamalonga (themselves worthy of a visit), this river beach is peaceful and family-friendly in equal amounts. Locally, it's best known for its charming renovated mill.
México River Beach: Called Mexico but sitting in Vieira do Minho, this river beach is the least busy in the area despite having calm, clean waters, and a decent stretch of white sand that's just perfect for working on your summer tan.
3. Fall in love with Pitões das Júnias
While Peneda-Gerês is a warm-weather destination by all metrics, the idyllic and nearly abandoned traditional village of Pitões das Júnias is actually prettier when it's covered with snow. So, if you find yourself in the park during the winter, make your way to the road that connects Braga to Montalegre and turn left, continuing until you reach Pitões das Júnias.
Needless to say, it's also great in the summer, so there’s no wrong time to visit!
With a rich heritage, this small village is perfect for strolling around and exploring its rustic buildings, a combination of old ruins and traditional houses that are still inhabited today.
Between the 10th and 13th of February, Pitões das Júnias is also home to Entrudo, an annual folk festival of Pagan ancestry corresponding to the contemporary Carnival. However, instead of dressing up as their favorite Marvel characters (typical for kids during Carnival), the childrenfrom Pitões das Júnias don impressive traditional costumes known as Caretos.
They're made of wool and feature vibrant colors, and although they're mostly associated with the village of Podence, Macedo de Cavaleiros (outside of the park), they're also part of Pitões das Júnias' history.
You can also check out another traditional village in Montalegre called Tourém. While not as ancient as Pitões das Júnias, Tourém is equally charming. Interestingly enough, I have just learned that it's the third least inhabited village in mainland Portugal!
The Mosteiro de Santa Maria das Junias in Pitões das Júnias. Photo: Nelson Rodrigues, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Stroll through the Via Nova Roman road, also known as Geira
If Pitões das Júnias and Tourém look like well-preserved samples of old medieval times, then the Via Nova Roman Road is like stepping back into pre-Christian times. Locally, everybody knows this road as Geira (keep that in mind in case you need to ask for directions), and it consists of a stone walkway that's existed since the year 80 AD!
The road connected Bracara Augusta (Braga) to Astúrica Augusta (Astorga, Spain) and, apart from a few signs, has been virtually the same since those days. Naturally, there are thousands of different ways to reach this road, but I highly recommend that you start exploring Via Nova in Terras de Bouro (the landscape is simply gorgeous in this stretch of the walkway).
While exploring the Via Nova Roman Road technically qualifies as hiking, I believe this to be more than just another hiking route in Peneda-Gerês. Crucially, the Geira is perhaps the strongest symbol of how old Peneda-Gerês is. In this particular case, we're talking about more than just nature being preserved.
After all, the Geira is a massive, living archaeological site, as well as one of the few places in the world where you can experience what it was like to walk like a Roman.
5. Explore the park’s magnificent waterfalls
Waterfalls, or cascatas in Portuguese, are a Peneda-Gerês thing. I don't know of any scientific study about it, but I'm willing to bet that the Park has one of the highest rates of waterfalls per square meter in Europe.
Because of its mountainous terrain and abundant water sources, Peneda-Gerês is filled with exciting waterfalls that the locals love to visit. Here are my favorites:
Cascata de Pincães (Montalegre): Accessible only by foot, this waterfall sits in Montalegre, in the district of Vila Real, and is part of the Cascata de Pincães hike. If you're looking for a dreamy and quiet waterfall in the Park but don't feel like climbing a few rocks, this is it. You still need to walk roughly 1 kilometer (0.6 miles) to get there, but the hike is both safe and undemanding.
Cascata do Arado (Terras de Bouro): This waterfall sits less than 1 kilometer away from a main road, but you can only see it after climbing a makeshift stairway in the rocks. Swimming at this waterfall is extremely dangerous, but the waterfall itself is incredibly beautiful. It's particularly suitable for photography enthusiasts and intermediate/experienced hikers.
Cascata de Fisgas de Ermelo (Vila Real): Accessible via a couple of beautiful forest roads (no cars allowed), the Cascata de Fisgas do Ermelo is one of the best in the Park for swimming. It's full of teenagers and families with kids in the summer, but not to the point of getting annoying.
Cascata de São Miguel (Campo do Gerês): This blue-water waterfall is perfect for swimming, but getting there takes hard work. Sitting next to the village of Campo do Gerês, roughly 1 kilometer away from the Spanish border, this waterfall is only accessible via somewhat dangerous terrain made mostly of huge rocks leaning against one another.
This means that one bad decision can result in an accident, so be extremely careful at Cascata de São Miguel! Avoid this one if you are not in good physical shape, are afraid of heights, or are new to mountain hiking.
As an extra note, avoid Cascata do Tahiti. Despite its cool name and obvious natural beauty, this waterfall no longer looks like the photos you will find on Google Images. It has become so popular in recent years that it's sometimes impossible to find a place to put down a towel. Peneda-Gerês' waterfalls are favored for their calm and away-from-everything vibe, and that's something you won't get at Cascata do Tahiti.
Cascata de Pincães. Photo: Luís Cardoso, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Wander through the “magical woods” of Mata de Albergaria
When you think about it, Peneda-Gerês is like a massive woodland. Directly connected to the Via Nova Roman Road, Mata de Albergaria is probably the most beautiful example of this woodland, and it's rightfully recognized for its fairytale-like charms.
The best part is that Mata de Albergaria is extremely safe, featuring plenty of man-made pathways (including cute wooden bridges) that make it very comfortable to walk around in the area. If you feel like swimming, check out the Cascata Portela do Homem, yet another cool waterfall in the Park.
7. Do some water sports at the Barragem da Caniçada (Dam of Caniçada)
When it comes to Barragem da Caniçada, a dam in Terras de Bouro, play is the keyword. A good summertime destination for swimming and sunbathing, the Barragem da Caniçada is also one of the main sites for water sports in the park, with popular activities including stand-up paddleboarding and pedal boats.
For a more extreme sporting experience, I suggest trying Tobogã's canyoning tours. They don't have canyoning anywhere near Terras de Bouro, but you can find one of their sites within walking distance of Lima Escape & Glamping, one of the campgrounds I recommended above.
The dam of Caniçada. Photo: Município de Terras de Bouro, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
8. Enjoy the view at Pedra Bela
Every remote natural area in Portugal has at least one or two sightseeing points known as miradouros. Essentially, these are designated places people go to to enjoy the view. Naturally, there are several of these in Peneda-Gerês, out of which I recommend the stunning Miradouro da Pedra Bela.
Despite being man-made, this sightseeing point stands at over 800 meters (2,600 feet) and offers an unrivaled view of the Caldo River and the Barragem da Caniçada. There's more than one miradouro in the area too, which makes Pedra Bela the ultimate sightseeing site in the Peneda-Gerês National Park.
9. Hike to Minas dos Carris
Before talking about the best hikes in Peneda-Gerês I need to mention a hiking route that, just like the Via Nova Roman Road, is different from the rest. Minas dos Carris translates literally as Mines of the Rails and is a now-abandoned mining site sitting on the top of the mountains surrounding the Homem River, in Outeiro, Montalegre (relatively close to Vilarinho da Furna).
Seeing the old abandoned mines is amazing, but the hike to get there is even better. There's a caveat, though: before starting your journey, you need to contact ICNF and ask for a special permit. If the forest authorities catch you wandering around this site without a license, you may be “asked” to pay a €250 fine!
You need to be a relatively experienced hiker to complete the 10-kilometer (6.2-mile) hike, but you will see lots of beautiful things along the way. In my experience, this is also one of the best places in Peneda-Gerês to see some animals, including sheep and horses.
An abandoned structure at the old mining site. Photo: Paf~itwiki, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Best hikes in the park
Peneda-Gerês is probably the best hiking destination in Portugal, and there's no shortage of experiences available for hikers of all skill and endurance levels.
As always, be sure to prepare appropriately, bring the proper gear, and always respect nature. Use comfortable shoes, pack extra clothes, bring your own trash bag to take out whatever you bring in, and don't put yourself in danger!
Unless you're an experienced outdoorsman, I recommend you to stay away from the most demanding hikes, and please don't forget to stay hydrated - bring more water than you think you’ll need.
In Peneda-Gerês, hikes are called trilhos, and these are my favorites:
Trilho das Sete Lagoas (Montalegre)
Starting in the tiny village of Xertelo, this is one of the most popular hikes in the Park because it covers seven beautiful lagoons, is very safe and easy to complete, and it's perfect for a warm summer day.
Avoid swimming in the lagoons because they're dangerous (sadly, accidents happen every year), and don't forget to pack your own trash bag! The whole hike takes 12 kilometers (7.4 miles) to complete.
Trilho da Calcedónia (Braga)
Starting in the Covide village of the district of Braga, this hike is made through 17 kilometers (10.6 miles) of rough terrain (especially at the end), and includes the famous Fenda da Calcedónia, a difficult and dangerous passage between two rocks.
Apart from this passage, there's no climbing involved in the Calcedónia Hike, which is nonetheless considered to be one of the toughest in the region.
Trilho do Megalitismo (Viana do Castelo)
Starting and ending at the same site (the Viana do Castelo village of Castro Laboreiro), this hike with 13 kilometers (8 miles) is popular because it passes by the largest megalithic necropolis in the Iberian Peninsula. If you dig history, you're going to love this one!
Trilho Fafião (Montalegre)
This hike has 9 kilometers (5.5 miles), but it takes just 5 kilometers (3.1 miles) to reach Poço Verde, a beautiful "secret" lagoon that makes for the hike's highlight. With plenty of sightseeing points and convenient wooden and iron structures (including bridges), this one is perfect for intermediate hikers.
Passadiços do Sistelo (Arcos de Valdevez)
If you love strolling through nature, but don't like physically demanding hikes, I suggest going to Arcos de Valdevez and taking a walk through the Passadiços do Sistelo, or Sistelo Walkway.
It has only 2 kilometers (1.2 miles), but it's directly connected to Ecovias do Vez, another easygoing walkway that covers a whopping 32 kilometers (19.8 miles), so you'll never run out of things to do!
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Dining and restaurants in the park
As previously stated, Peneda-Gerês National Park is not an enclosed area, but is rather an open territory where, except for a few nature-friendly rules, life runs its normal course. For this reason, the Park is filled with restaurants serving delicious traditional Barrosã food, i.e., the purest and savouriest meat you will ever try in your life!
To me, the restaurant that best embodies the Barrosã spirit in Peneda-Gerês is the Pólo Norte restaurant in Montalegre. Exclusively open for lunch hours, this family-run business sits at the entrance of a little-known campground that doesn't even show up on Google Maps (and costs a mere €5 per day, by the way).
The most special thing about it is that you can see the cows you will eventually eat roaming happily and freely around you! If it sounds like a vegetarian's nightmare, it's because the Barrosã cuisine doesn't care much for vegans, but meat-eaters will know the difference between real and processed meat once they take a bite off of one of Pólo Norte's cows.
The service is incredible but can be extremely slow (don't worry, it adds up to the place's authenticity).
Luckily, there are other restaurants in Peneda-Gerês that, being more formal, also serve authentic Barrosã meat. Below are some of my favorites. And it’s no coincidence that, apart from O Abocanhado, all these restaurant recommendations are in Montalegre or the nearby villages such as Fafião and Vilar de Perdizes; this area is one of the focal points of Barrosã culture, as well as a bustling area of non-industrial cattle production.
Restaurants to try
O Abocanhado (Terras de Bouro): Don't be surprised if you drive to the address of this restaurant and don't see a thing. This classy establishment was designed to fit seamlessly into the surrounding landscape, and you need to go down a discreet set of stairs to actually get a glimpse of it.
Here, you can find an exquisite selection of Mediterranean food, headlined, as expected, by their meat menu.
Sol e Chuva (Montalegre): One of my all-time favorite restaurants in the world, Sol e Chuva adds a modern twist to Barrosã classics like Pork with Orange without snubbing flavor or inflating prices.
Taberna S. Tiago (Fafião): A restaurant serving great Barrosã meat that also has some of the best appetizers in the area. Their cheese with honey and nuts is to die for, and their selection of traditional cured ground meat (enchidos in Portuguese) is equally mouthwatering.
Larouco (Vilar de Perdizes): Putting substance over style, the Larouco restaurant doesn't look like much if you’re judging by the photos on TripAdvisor, but believe me: this humble establishment is an overachiever, serving perfect meat dishes at unbelievable prices.
In Portugal, we usually say that Larouco's food tastes like grandma's, and that's about the best compliment we could ever give to a restaurant.
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