A Local’s Guide to Visiting Braga, Portugal
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Throughout history there have been many versions of Braga. Once a Roman civitas known as Bracara Augusta, Braga later developed into one of the most important Catholic strongholds in the Iberian Peninsula, earning the nickname "City of the Archbishops." Today, it's one of the most rapidly developing municipalities in Portugal. But, the big question for you is: “is it worth visiting?”
The answer, in short, is yes, definitely.
Braga is my hometown and a place I lived for many years. Like most bracarenses (inhabitants of Braga), I used to often complain about the city. "It's boring," "It's too small," "There's nothing to do here!" I definitely wasn’t always the city’s biggest fan. My opinion, however, has changed over time (and after some time away) and I’ve come to think that Braga is actually kind of awesome, especially when served in small doses.
I won't lie and say that Braga is the best city in the world (it's not even the best city in Portugal!), but I do think you can have a lot of fun here.
The bottom line is: if you're looking to explore a lesser-known Portuguese town with an interesting combination of history, culture, and modern offerings, then you can't go wrong with Braga.
For more ideas on travel in Portugal, have a look at our guide to 40 places to visit and this comprehensive 10-day Portugal itinerary.
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Where is Braga and how to get there
Braga is located in far northern Portugal, in the heart of the geographical region of Minho, roughly 55 kilometers north of Porto. Braga is just 76 kms (47 miles) from the Spanish border, a 50 minute car ride.
Few visitors come to Portugal solely to go to Braga, and the city does not have an international airport. Therefore, most people arrive here by car or train, after having first arrived to Portugal via Lisbon or Porto’s international airports.
If you arrive via Lisbon, you can get to Braga quickly and comfortably using a high-speed Alfa Pendular train. There are more than 10 departures each day from Lisbon’s Oriente train station to Braga. The journey takes 3.5 - 5 hours (fast Alfa Pendular trains make it in 3.5 hours, but there are only a few each day) and tickets cost as little as 14 euros. The Portuguese rail service is called Comboios de Portugal.
Coming from Porto, there's a Get Bus route connecting Porto's Airport to Braga that leaves every 30 minutes and costs a mere 9€ (for adults) and 4,50€ (for children). Getting from Porto’s airport to Braga by bus or car takes just 40 minutes.
Alternatively, you can get from Porto city center to Braga via train or bus. Train tickets cost 3,50€ and the journey takes a little over an hour. Bus tickets are a little more expensive, with an average price of 6€, but the trip can be almost 30 minutes shorter than via train.
The best time to visit Braga
The best time to visit Braga is in the Spring, between March and the end of May. Admittedly, though, Braga in the Spring isn't drastically different from Braga in the Winter or Summer. So, why is this my recommendation then?
For one, Braga isn't a summer town. While there are some cool beaches sitting just 30 kilometers away from the city (such as Apúlia and Esposende), Braga itself is way more pleasant with mild weather (such as the weather experienced during Spring) than when it's super hot.
Additionally, Braga can get harsh during the coldest months of the year, especially when it comes to the rain. In the Autumn and Winter, Braga gets so desperately wet that it was given the not-so-flattering nickname of "Penico de Portugal," which roughly translates as "Chamber Pot of Portugal."
All things considered, the Spring is the perfect time to visit Braga because it won't get too hot or cold, you can enjoy one-of-a-kind cultural events such as late May's Braga Romana, and you can avoid the busy Summer months during which the city gets more crowded and expensive.
How long to spend in Braga
One weekend (3 days + 2 nights) should be more than enough for you to get acquainted with the best Braga has to offer. In my experience, there's no point in spending more than a couple of days in Braga unless you plan on exploring nearby attractions such as the Peneda-Gerês Natural Park.
Despite being one of the most important Portuguese cities after Lisbon and Porto, Braga is somewhat limited in terms of tourism offerings. Most cool places sit in Braga's small historic center, with the city's outskirts being mainly comprised of average suburban neighborhoods.
Where to stay in Braga
The city center is the best place to stay in Braga. Most bracarenses agree that Braga's city center extends all the way from the train station, right next to the Arco da Porta Nova (an 18th-century arch that signals the entrance to Braga's historic center), to the Minho University, which sits relatively close to the famous Sanctuary of Bom Jesus.
There's not a huge selection of hotels in Braga, but here are 5 reasonably priced options that I like:
Vila Gale Collection Braga - While Braga is not exactly a luxury destination, this hotel comes pretty close. Set in a renovated 1500s hospital (while that might sound a bit odd, it’s beautiful) you get vaulted ceilings, a lovely garden, elegant rooms, and two pools. Rooms start at around $150 per night.
Hotel Bracara Augusta -In a good central location with pleasant rooms, this 4-star hotel is not quite as nice as Vila Gale nor is it housed in an iconic building, but it’s a bit cheaper. Nightly rates run around $125.
Meliã Braga Hotel & Spa -Sitting right next to Minho University on the edge of town and next to Bom Jesus hill, Meliã Braga Hotel & Spa is a very modern (all glass and steel) high-end hotel. It has a wellness center, indoor swimming pools, a gym, a restaurant, a bar, and other services. Prices vary throughout the year, but you should expect to pay around $100 for one night.
Domus 26 Guesthouse - This is a lovely, centrally located and family-run B&B in Braga’s historic core. Rooms are spacious, airy, and bright and the staff is kind and helpful. Rooms start at around $75.
Basic Braga -The go-to choice for visitors on a budget, the Basic Braga hotel sits right next to the city’s train station and Sé de Braga (one of the city's most central historic monuments). It’s a modern, fairly nondescript hotel, but it’s open 24/7, well-located, and serves a pretty good breakfast. The best thing about Basic Braga, though, is the price, with rooms costing as little as $50 per night.
What to see and do in Braga
These are my top recommendations for things to see and do in Braga:
1. Explore the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus
Going to Braga and not visiting the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus is kind of like going to Paris and not visiting the Eiffel Tower, except it's even worse… The Sanctuary of Bom Jesus is Braga's ultimate touristic landmark, and—contrary to many of the overhyped tourist hotspots we're bound to find—it's actually worth your time.
Surrounded by beautiful gardens, a few artificial caves with wishing wells, and one or two convenient cafés, the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus is accessible via funicular (a type of cable railway based on two counterbalance carriages) or via a stunning Baroque staircase (which can be kind of hard to climb). On the top of the Sanctuary, visitors can enjoy a nice boat ride in a lake with fish.
2. Take a stroll in the historic center
In addition to being the "City of the Archbishops," Braga is also known as the "City of the Baroque." Both designations are extremely fitting of Braga's historic center, in which old monuments (and churches in particular) are impossible to avoid.
Your stroll through Braga's historic center should begin with the Arco da Porta Nova, an ancient gate that is (and always was) open. Because of this monument, bracarenses are famous in the whole of Portugal for "leaving the door open" (the expression is still widely used today).
Inside the city limits, there are several other monuments worth visiting. The thousand-year-old Sé de Braga makes for a rare sample of a brilliantly preserved Roman Catholic Church, the Biscaínhos Museum has a beautiful garden and a fine collection of 18th-century ornaments, and the Santa Bárbara Garden is the prettiest free-access public garden in the whole city.
Oh, and If you happen to be in Braga during the last weekend of May, don't miss out on Braga Romana! It's a popular street party that turns Braga's historic center upside down by converting it into a Roman-inspired fair with roasted meat, mead, impromptu shows, and craftwork.
3. Get familiar with the concept of esplanada
When I think of the endless afternoons I spent in Braga when I was a student, the word esplanada always comes to mind. In Portuguese, esplanada refers to a set of outdoor chairs and tables sitting next to a café. And in case you haven't guessed it yet, the Portuguese love spending hours on end drinking coffee and beer in esplanadas.
There's no better way of enjoying Braga just like a local than by sitting in an esplanada for a couple of hours. The city's most famous is the one from the centuries-old café A Brasileira, and the busiest (and trendiest) are the ones from the cafés in front of the Sé de Braga. My personal favorite, however, is by far the esplanada from the Centésima Página bookshop.
Open during the daytime, Centésima Página is a bookshop that doubles as a café and features a "secret" garden with esplanada in the back. It's a quiet, exclusive, and artsy place, but pretty much everybody feels at home there.
4. Visit the Tibães Monastery
Sitting outside of Braga's historic center (but still at walking distance from Braga's train station), the Monastery of São Martinho de Tibães (or simply Tibães Monastery) makes for a luxurious example of 17th-century rococo art. Its lavish main chapel is recognizable for being one of the most notable examples of gilded woodcarving in Europe.
The thing that keeps making me go back to this monastery, however, is its amazing garden. The perfect springtime afternoon destination, it features areas of incredibly lush vegetation, stunning stone staircases and fountains, and many cool wild animals (including squirrels).
5. Go to the Quinta Lago dos Cisnes
"Quinta Lago dos Cisnes" translates as "Swan Lake Farm," and the name couldn't be more fitting of the place. This dreamy farm sits roughly 20 kilometers away from the city center and makes for a unique mix of a river beach, a tiny zoo, a children's playground, and a huge restaurant.
Quinta Lago dos Cisnes is often used for weddings and other massive private parties, but it's always open for casual visitors.
6. Enjoy a night-out in Braga
Being a "night owl" myself, I was never too crazy about the fact that Braga is essentially a daytime city. When the night comes in the City of the Archbishops, there's really not much to do apart from eating, drinking, and dancing.
So, why not enjoy a night out after a nice dinner at Braga's historic center? Nighttime offerings in the city are somewhat limited, so I suggest the following itinerary:
Start with a cocktail at Tosga (personally, I recommend their delicious Moscow Mule);
Mingle with the locals at Pelle, perhaps Braga's busiest pub;
Dance to some vibey electronic music at Juno, the city's hippest nightclub;
Round things up at Lustre, Braga's only bonafide disco (open until 7 A.M.).
7. Watch a show at Theatro Circo
Where do all of the most elitist people of Braga spend their Friday night, you wonder? The only plausible answer is Theatro Circo, perhaps the prettiest State-sponsored theatre in the whole of Portugal, and the go-to Braga destination for all culture aficionados.
From ballet shows to international music acts (I loved watching Bill Callahan play live there last year), Theatro Circo always has something cool in store for you at the weekend. The best part, however, is that the theatre's architecture and décor are so beautiful it's like a work of art in itself.
8. Get cultural with Gnration
Last but not least, there's Gnration, a massive cultural center with a well-curated offering of contemporary art shows, avant-garde music, and occasional state-of-the-art clubbing nights. It's funny that, in a city where old monuments are so abundant, Gnration—founded in 2012—actually makes for one of the most impressive buildings in sight.
Just like Theatro Circo, Gnration is a visually impressive cultural venue. But whereas Theatro Circo is designed to look like a glamorous 19th-century theatre, Gnration is inspired by wonders of modern architecture in the line of Sydney's Opera or Bilbao's Guggenheim.
Dining in Braga
Braga is the most representative city in the Portuguese region of Minho, and its fabulous cuisine truly compiles the best Minho has to offer.
Here are some of the most famous traditional dishes of the city/region:
Dishes to try
Bacalhau à Braga ("Codfish in the style of Braga"): Codfish cooked with potatoes, onions, garlic, and olive oil, usually garnished with parsley and egg;
Papas de Sarrabulho: A dish made out of pork, rice, herbs, and—believe it or not—blood pudding! The dish's name is pretty much impossible to translate;
Rojões à Minhota ("Pork in the style of Minho"): Deliciously marinated pork served with roasted potatoes and rice;
Caldo Verde ("Green Broth"): A traditional Portuguese soup made with finely shredded collard greens, potatoes, onions, and a hint of chorizo or linguiça sausage;
Pastéis de Braga ("Braga Pastries"): A mouthwatering dessert typically made with a flaky pastry filled with a sweet egg and sugar mixture;
Francesinha: The world-famous Francesinha is a traditional Portuguese sandwich made out of bread, meats, cheese, and a unique tomato sauce. While it's actually from Porto, there's currently a huge Francesinha culture in Braga;
Vinho Verde ("Green Wine"): Braga is located in the Vinho Verde wine region, so you can enjoy local wines that are crisp, light, and slightly effervescent.
There's no shortage of traditional Minho dishes being exemplarily served in Braga, and the following restaurant recommendations include not only the best of those, but also some modern recipes for both locals and outsiders to enjoy:
Restaurants in Braga
Velhos Tempos: An affordable but high-quality restaurant right next to Gnration that serves amazing codfish and roasted veel (vitela assada);
São Frutuoso: Just a few kilometers away from the city center, the restaurant of São Frutuoso can get pricey, but serves the tastiest Papas de Sarrabulho you will ever eat;
Tabique: Underneath the nightclub Juno, Tabique is a trendy restaurant with the most inventive menu in Braga;
Retrokitchen: Right next to Tabique, Retrokitchen is a laidback restaurant that's as famous for its food as for its vibe (Oh, and I should add is a great option for vegans!);
Café Imperial: While 90% of bracarenses will tell you that the best Francesinha in the city is to be found at Taberna Belga, my number-one recommendation happens to be the much lesser-known Café Imperial, where you can get a mouthwatering Porto-style Francesinha for roughly 10€;
DeGema: Sitting in front of the Santa Bárbara garden, DeGema could be mistaken for any run-of-the-mill burger place. However, its creative menu inspired by traditional Minho dishes makes it a must-visit for hungry tourists;
Frigideiras do Cantinho: By far the most iconic recommendation in the list, Frigideiras do Cantinho is known for serving delicious Frigideiras, a salty lunchtime treat comprised of a mix of meat wrapped around puff pastry.
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