A Local’s Guide to Trani, Puglia
Trani is a small city about an hour north of Bari located on a stretch of coast that's known to locals as the Terra di Bari - the land of Bari. Here, you'll find a clutch of small, but busy cities that are generally quite nice, but very little known to tourists. Trani is the nicest of them all.
The fact that so few people visit is already reason enough to go, but the real reason why I love it is because it's a Medieval gem!
The old town preserves an incredible atmosphere with its tall white buildings made with the local limestone, there's an incredibly picturesque marina always full of fishing boats, a great castle, and one of the most impressive Norman cathedrals in Puglia.
Aside from the principal sights, it's just a really pleasant place to walk around, and it's easy to soak up a bit of the Pugliese spirit here.
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My favorite hotels in Puglia
- Palazzo de Noha - gorgeous boutique property in Lecce. $300/night
- Locanda Don Ferrante - Monopoli's best hotel. $300+/night
- Borgo Canonica - Trulli hotel in Valle d'Itria countryside. $200/night
- Masseria il Frantoio - rustic-chic farmhouse in Ostuni. $200/night
- B&B Murex - excellent value in Bari's old town. $100/night
Guided tours and activities
- Private guided tours with Paolo (me!)
- Valle d'Itria day trip: Alberobello & Ostuni
- Polignano a Mare boat ride
- Walking tour of Bari
How to get around
- Car rentals with DiscoverCars
- Train tickets from Trenitalia
- Bus routes and schedules at Moovit and BusBud
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Where is Trani
Trani is on the coast of northern Puglia, about 1 hour north of Bari. It's surrounded by a series of other small-to-medium sized cities like Andria, Barletta, and Molfetta.
To the city's north lie the flat tablelands of the province of Foggia (where a huge percentage of Italy's grain is grown) and eventually the Gargano peninsula.
Trani is reachable from Bari via car or frequent train connections.
Why visit
The Norman Cathedral
The city's Swabian castle and northern coast
Trani is primarily known for its humongous Romanesque cathedral (the biggest of the entire region) that was built during the Norman period.
The Cathedral is splendid and it alone is reason to visit, but personally I think what makes Trani so pleasant is the general atmosphere.
Although it's similar to the surrounding cities (especially Bari), it has a very distinct vibe and a certain class that invites you to walk around in a leisurely manner. It just feels kind of "distinguished". And while it's gradually becoming more popular with tourists, it's still relatively unvisited and feels totally local. Also, as this has been a prosperous city since Medieval times, it has a cosmopolitan air that is unusual for such a small place (just 56,000 people).
When here, the first thing you'll notice is the white color of the buildings. The stone is a bright white typical of the local limestone that is exported all over Italy and beyond. The buildings are tall, the streets are clean, and the general atmosphere is of a place of historical importance and wealth. The locals, while friendly, do not depend on tourism for their livelihoods and you won’t find souvenir shops or tacky stores here.
Aside from the cathedral, there is also another reason why people know Trani; together with Lecce it is the only place in Puglia with two Michelin-starred restaurants! Regardless of whether you're into fine dining, what this [correctly] indicates is that the general quality of food and restaurants here is very high, especially if you like seafood.
History lovers will also enjoy learning about the town's Jewish history - in the Middle Ages it had one of the biggest Jewish communities in southern Italy and used to have four synagogues. The synagogues were converted into other things after the expulsion of the Jews from Europe by the Spanish (Puglia, like most of Southern Italy, was controlled by the Bourbons and Aragonese for centuries), but now one has been turned back into an active synagogue and another one has been converted into a museum about the city's Jewish history.
A brief history
The historical importance of Trani was extremely connected to the boats that left its harbor headed to the Middle East for trade.
The city rose to prominence during the Middle Ages, primarily during Norman and Swabian rule around the 12th century. Aside from being an important port for goods, it was also a stop (and departure point) for many pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem.
This historical prominence is apparent in the impressive Norman cathedral and the imposing Swabian castle, but also indicated by the once large presence of Jewish merchants created a flourishing community here.
After a long rivalry with the nearby ports of Bari and Bitonto, the glory of Trani dramatically ended in the 1500s when the Ottoman Empire became aggressive and stopped all commerce with Italy's ports.
From that period on, Trani became little more than a small fishing city near to the capital. This adds a special charm to the city as it feels like a place frozen in time. Unlike many of Puglia's historic cities, here the locals still live in the old town, which is elegant, pleasant, and atmospheric.
In modern day, Trani is a wealthy little city whose residents mostly rely on trading the local white limestone/marble know as “Bianco di Trani".
How long to spend
Trani is small and aside from going into the cathedral and up its bell tower, there are really no "must visit” sights in town. The castle is quite cool, but it's a defensive fortification like so many others and doesn't really have anything to see inside. The city center, while extremely pleasant, is small, so it doesn't take long to explore.
If you're visiting Trani as a day trip or as a stop on a longer itinerary/road trip, I think anywhere from 3-4 hours is enough to see the town and have a good meal. This is plenty of time to find a parking spot, check out the cathedral, walk along the marina, and stroll through the Jewish quarter and historic center. That said, I often find myself lingering here for longer than I intend to as it's just so pleasant.
If you're planning to visit Bari and other places like Molfetta, Barletta, Castel del Monte, and Giovinazzo, but don't want to stay in big and chaotic Bari, Trani also makes for a good base and you could consider spending a couple of nights here.
What to see & do
1. Check out the Norman cathedral
Nicely located near the water, the church is built atop an old church that is now used as crypt. It's extremely plain, but gives an overwhelming sensation both due to its size and its location.
In the church you can also admire the original bronze door (from the 12th century!) that was made by a local artist who also made the doors of Monreale Cathedral in Sicily and Ravello’s cathedral on the Amalfi Coast.
The bell tower offers absolutely incredible 360 degree views over the city and sea.
The Cathedral
The entrance to the cathedral
View from the bell tower
2. Have a coffee or aperitivo in Piazza Quercia
This is the main square in the historic center and it is the perfect place to grab a seat and do some serious people watching. On Sunday mornings the whole city is out for a walk before lunch and everyone is dressed to the nines.
For a different atmosphere, head to Piazza Repubblica which is the principle square in the new part of town.
People out for a Sunday stroll in Piazza Quercia
3. Take a stroll through Villa Comunale park
This is a pleasant little park that is on top of a section of old city walls overlooking the sea. It's especially pleasant on the weekends when it's full of people walking, chatting, and children playing.
Villa Comunale park
4. Check out the former Jewish ghetto
The Jewish quarter is located between the marina and the castle (in the old town, of course). While here, pop into the Jewish museum which is housed in the church of Sant’Anna. Also take a look at the active synagogue of “Scola Nova”.
5. Go for a wander in the old town
There is no main street in Trani, but more more a series of little squares connected by alleys and side streets. Be sure to look for Piazza Cesare Battisti, Piazza Sacra Regia Udienza, Piazza Campo dei Longobardi, Piazza Teatro and Piazza Repubblica.
Don’t miss the shopping avenue of Via San Giorgio, Via Zanardelli, and Via Pagano (the street that divides the old town from the modern center).
A pretty street in the old town
Another pretty street (it's full of them!)
6. Go inside Trani's XII Century Castle (or don't!)
This impressive fortification is directly in front of the Adriatic Sea (its foundation is in the water) and right by the cathedral. It looks impressive from the outside, but there's not much to see inside, so I'll forgive you if you don't enter.
The castle
7. Enjoy the area of the old port
I particularly love the old port and the area that immediately surrounds it. Fishing boats are always moored here and it hosts a small fish market every day with lots of fisherman selling directly from their boats. The market is best early in the morning, but you'll still see activity into the late afternoon.
You should also take in the view of the port from the end of Molo Sant’Antonio.
The port
Fishing boats in harbor
One of two great piers
8. See what's on at Palazzo Beltrani
Near the cathedral is a lovely noble palace that now doubles as an event space for concerts and hosts a small art museum with a collection of paintings and occasional temporary exhibits.
9. Enjoy a seafood meal
Trani's restaurants are some of the best in Puglia and having a great seafood meal while you're in town is an absolute must in my book. Here are some of my favorite spots:
Quintessenza - high end and Michelin-starred.
Ristorante Corteinfiore - expensive and fancy, but one of the best fish menus I have ever had in my life.
Locanda Trani - nice and not too fancy, mainly fish.
Il Melograno - just outside the old town, recommended on the Michelin guide.
Le Lampare al Fortino - classy and elegant in a great location.
Pescandalo - fish, fish, and more fish.
Osteria Frangipane - great place a bit off the beaten path.
Seafood fresh off the boat
Where to stay
If you're planning to spend a night in Trani or use it as a base, I always recommend staying in the old town. To me, it's just the best area to be, both for proximity to the main sights but also because it's atmospheric and full of cafes and restaurants. There are also parking lots right at the edge of the old town, so you won't have to walk far with your luggage.
The modern city isn’t as charming, but it is still close enough if you prefer to stay somewhere newer and with better car access.
Here are some hotels I recommend:
Dimore Marinare - almost certainly Trani's best hotel and my personal favorite. $200 USD per night.
Ognissanti Hotel - lovely 4-star hotel with a spa, a good restaurant, and a rooftop bar. $150-200 USD per night.
Marè Resort - A good hotel in a historic palazzo right near the old port. $175 USD per night.
San Paolo al Convento - a nice and smaller hotel housed in old monastery facing the port. $120-150 USD per night.
Palazzo Filisio - very pleasant little hotel housed in a historic building where the city's Royal Court once was. $100-150 USD per night.
Palazzo Bianchi - a cute little B&B that's excellent value. $65 USD per night.
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Paolo Maragliulo
Puglia Expert based in Lecce
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Hi, I'm Paolo, and I've been a tour guide and travel consultant here in Puglia for the last 20 years. If you're looking for some local advice on your trip, I'd love to help!
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