Travel Guide to Gijón, Spain - A Lively Coastal Escape
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Gijón, the largest city in the region of Asturias, is somewhere that not many people outside of Spain have even heard of, never mind visited. Bigger and grittier than its counterpart Oviedo, the Asturian capital just 30 minutes to the south, Gijón is one of those surprising Spanish cities that pulses with life and it’s a place that will leave you scratching your head as to why it isn’t more popular.
Once an industrial hub, Gijón has spent the past decades on a similar trajectory to Bilbao in the Basque Country; pivoting from its industrial roots to become a more vibrant, urban city thanks to new pedestrianized streets, leafy parks, and seafront promenades.
While it is one of Spain’s rainier destinations, that only serves to make it greener and lusher, and when the sun does come out in summer, the result is a stunning city that is one of Spain’s most underrated beach destinations.
The great beaches aside, Gijón is also the epicenter of cider culture in Asturias. Taverns across the city draw big local crowds throughout the day, where the golden liquor flows freely, alongside Asturian specialty dishes like fabada, cachopo, a staggering variety of local cheeses, and incredible seafood plucked straight out of the Atlantic.
In short, this is a city that knows how to live.
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Table of Contents
Why visit?
Where is Gijón
How to get there
How long to spend
Things to see & do
How to spend 2 days in Gijón
Why visit?
Photo: Veriña, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Gijón is a city that has a real sense of energy and excitement and people tend to contrast it with Oviedo, to the south, which is thought to be much more reserved. In comparison, Gijón feels almost carefree, and there’s an abundance of life on the streets.
This is partly due to San Lorenzo beach, the half-crescent sweep of golden sand that draws everyone from surfers to young families. Having a beautiful beach right at the city’s doorstep plays a big part in the fun, upbeat vibe and energy of Gijón’s residents. The atmosphere here is infectious – you could perhaps compare it to places like San Sebastian or Barcelona before they became must-see stops on Spain’s tourist trail.
The city also has plenty of history: from the Roman Ruins underground to the historic fishing core of Cimadevilla, Gijón’s long history is unique in Spain. There are several important Roman sites scattered throughout the city, from the thermal baths recently discovered underground right in the middle of the city, to the ruins of Roman villas just out in the countryside.
Gijón is also a great summertime destination. When most foreign visitors think of Spain’s beaches, they picture those along the Mediterranean coastline (the Costa Brava, Costa del Sol, Costa Blanca, etc.), but the north of the country, lying on the Atlantic Ocean, also has magnificent beaches.
Raw and wild in comparison, and certainly with much colder water, the north coast is where Spaniards flock during the summer months. So, if you choose to visit during this period, there will certainly be crowds, but you’ll be rubbing shoulders with Spaniards rather than foreigners.
Everything considered, Gijón is just one of those destinations that gets so many things right: the food, the (inexpensive) prices, the atmosphere, the history, and the high-quality beaches make it a really rewarding place to visit on any trip to Spain.
Where is Gijón?
Gijón is the largest and most populated city of Asturias, one of Spain’s 17 autonomous communities. Madrid, Spain’s capital, is 350 miles to the south, and can be reached by high-speed train, direct flight, and car.
The city enjoys a fine location on the Bay of Biscay and is an important port for Spain.
In either direction, the green hills of Asturias roll down to meet the stunning coastline, with twisted cliffs and huge sweeps of golden beach. The further inland you go, the mountains loom large, cradling nearby Oviedo, just 30 minutes to the south. To the west is the city of Aviles, the third largest city in Asturias.
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How to get here
Arriving by air
Gijón is served by the Asturias Airport, which is about 27 miles (44 km) from the city and situated right next to the city of Aviles on the coast. The airport is primarily served by domestic flights, so you’re only likely to arrive here if you choose to fly in from elsewhere in Spain.
Buses depart regularly from the airport to Gijón, with the trip taking about 45 minutes and one-way tickets costing about €9 euros.
Taxis are also an option, and will cover the trip in just over half an hour, but typically cost around €60.
Arriving by train
Construction of a new high-speed train line linking Madrid to the Asturias region was completed in the end of 2023, and there are now regular connections between Spain’s capital city and Gijón.
The are four daily departures from Madrid, the journey takes about 3 hours and 45 minutes and tickets cost between €40 and €55. You can book directly with RENFE, Spain’s national rail carrier.
If you’ll be coming from Oviedo, there are four trains every hour and the trip takes 25 to 50 minutes, depending on whether you’re catching the last leg of one of the high-speed trains or are boarding a local one, which stops at the small outer suburbs of both cities.
Arriving by bus
The ALSA bus company connects Oviedo with Madrid. They have departures throughout the day, about every 3 hours, and the trip takes just under 6 hours. One-way tickets cost from €20 to €60.
From Oviedo, there are buses every hour (or even a bit more often), and they run the route in 45 minutes to an hour. Tickets cost from €4 to €8.
If you’ll be arriving from elsewhere in northern Spain, an ALSA bus is almost certain to be your best bet. The company has regular routes connecting the major cities all throughout the north, so there are frequent connections with places like Bilbao, San Sebastian, A Coruña, Santiago de Compostela, etc.
Where to book train & bus tickets
As a general rule, I always recommend buying your public transport tickets directly from the service provider. That said, it can be tedious to research all the different options and compare prices. Also, the official websites are often poorly designed and can be confusing to navigate.
Omio is an aggregator website/app that I really like. It shows options for public transport routes all over the world. When you do a search, you’ll be able to see all your options for trains, buses, flights, and even ferries along with a host of different companies that provide the services. It costs a little bit more than booking direct, but it’s easy to use and very convenient.
Renting a car
If your northern Spain road trip is not starting in Gijón, know that you’ll find all the major international companies in Northern Spain as well as some smaller local ones which are often less expensive. Any medium-to-large city will have rental agencies, but for the best selection you’ll probably want to rent somewhere with an international airport or a busy train station.
If you plan on picking up a car in Gijón, you’ll have plenty of options. There are a host of rental agencies, all located at the city’s train station.
To check prices and book, I recommend using the following two car rental websites:
DiscoverCars includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
AutoEurope tends to be more expensive, but they only list options from large, well-reviewed companies and their customer service is excellent. Their deals often include “zero deductible” (i.e. full coverage) rental insurance.
How long to spend in Gijón
You need at least 2 days in Gijón if you want to fully explore the city, enjoy its atmosphere, and maybe spend a little bit of time at the beach.
On your fist day in the city, you could spend your morning visiting the historic Cimadevilla neighborhood, stopping by the underground Roman Baths, and exploring the Catalina Headland. Later on, set aside some time to lounge on the excellent San Lorenzo beach and go for a stroll along the lovely seaside promenade.
For day 2, you could visit the Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura and the Jardín Botánico Atlántico, a pair of attractions in the eastern neighborhoods of the city. Then, choose between visiting either the Museum of the Asturian People or the Museo Ferrocarril, and spend some time in the city’s squares, drinking cider and dining on the local specialties and seafood.
Where to stay in the city
Hotel Hernán Cortés is a great choice with a fantastic location just a short walk from the busy city center but far enough away from all the noise that entails. Rooms are typically under $100 USD per night.
What to see & do
1. Enjoy the beautiful San Lorenzo Beach
Located in the heart of Gijón, Playa de San Lorenzo is one of the most beautiful city beaches in northern Spain. The gentle curve of the golden sand hugs the city and its promenade, offering the perfect spot for relaxation, sunbathing, and enjoying the sea breeze.
It’s also one of the more unique beaches in Spain, with the high tide completely swallowing up the sand to lap at the staircases that lead down from the promenade.
Playa San Lorenzo. Photo: Justraveling.com, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
2. Explore the historic Cimadevilla quarter
One of the highlights of Gijón is the historic Cimadevilla quarter, which makes up the part of the city that juts out on the peninsula between the two beaches. This neighborhood overlooking the sea has beautiful medieval architecture and narrow, winding streets leading you between charming plazas.
There are also several notable landmarks and buildings to discover, including the Church of San Pedro, which sits at the edge of the San Lorenzo Beach and houses some interesting mosaic artworks.
Cimadevilla seen from above and across the water. Photo: Torres05, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
3. Go Underground at the Roman Baths
At the western end of Playa de San Lorenzo, right in front of the Church of San Pedro but hidden from plain sight lies the Termas Romanas de Campo Valdes – or Gijón’s Roman baths. This ancient archaeological site dates to the 1st century, and a visit here is an opportunity to learn about the city’s Roman roots.
Inside, platforms cross over the top of the bath complex, letting you look down at what remains of the once-large complex that included hot and cold baths, a swimming pool, and various rooms for relaxation and socializing.
4. Visit the Museum of the Asturian People
The Museum of the Asturian People, located east of San Lorenzo Beach in a quiet urban area of the city, showcases the rich history and cultural heritage of Asturias. Both indoor and outdoor exhibits tell the story of Asturias, with a diverse collection of objects and displays spanning local bagpipes, cooking practices, agricultural tools, traditional costumes, and more.
As you wander through the outdoor area, you'll encounter traditional Asturian houses, barns, and workshops, giving you a sense of what life was like in the past.
5. Walk or bike around the Catalina Headland
At the far northern end of Cimadevilla, the old town turns into a grassy headland, with hills slowly sloping down to the cliffs that plunge into the ocean. Follow the promenade at the edge of Cimadevilla and you’ll find yourself on a path that traces the edge of the peninsula, offering some outstanding views along the way.
Near the tip is one of the city’s most famous sculptures, the Elogio del Horizonte (Eulogy of the Horizon), a giant concrete structure consisting of two pillars that support an open ellipse. Designed by the renowned artist Eduardo Chillida, this sculpture frames the horizon and the blue waters of the Bay of Biscay, aiming to connect you with the surrounding land and seascapes. It’s also a favorite spot of locals to catch the sunset.
The Eulogy of the Horizon sculpture on the headland. Photo: Enric, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
6. Tour Spain’s largest building, the Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura
A 15-minute bus ride from the city center delivers you to the foot of Spain’s largest building: the Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura. This behemoth structure covers a staggering 270,000 square meters, with the sheer size evoking a sense of grandeur, let alone its classical design.
The building was originally commissioned by Franco, Spain’s 20th-century dictator, and was intended as an orphanage for the children of miners, with the complex designed to be a sort-of self-contained city.
However, it never got to that point and instead became a Jesuits-led university that taught trade until the nuns left and the government acquired the building in 2001. Today, you can visit the vast main square for free, take a guided tour, or head up to the tower for outstanding views.
Laboral Ciudad de La Cultura. Photo: Claudio85, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
7. Stroll through the Jardín Botánico Atlántico
Opposite the vast Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura you can find Gijón’s wonderful botanical gardens – it’s best to visit both attractions together. The gardens are separated by the season, letting you explore the different personalities of Spain’s verdant north coast all in under 2 hours.
With around 2,000 different species of plants, it’s a beautiful break from the city.
Paths through the Jardín Botánico Atlántico. Photo: Superchilum, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
8. Check out the Museo Ferrocarril
For locomotive enthusiasts and history buffs, a visit to the Museo Ferrocarril is a must when in Gijón. This unique museum is dedicated to showcasing the region's railway heritage, and is located inside an old railway station itself.
The wide range of exhibits highlight the Industrial Revolution in Asturias, showing off a fascinating collection of locomotives that were once used in the region’s ports, mines, foundries, and power stations. If you’re in any way a fan of trains, this is a great museum for you.
9. Take a surfing lesson
Many might think of San Sebastian when it comes to surfing, or even Santander, but Gijón is the hub of all things surfing in Asturias. The city’s laid-back beach vibes are only enhanced by the presence of several surfing schools along the beach.
San Lorenzo Beach is slightly protected by the Catalina Headland, meaning the small swell that rolls into the beach is often just right for beginners and intermediate surfers. For the best waves, serious surfers will want to jump in a car and drive to the beaches lying either east or north along the coast from the city.
10. Enjoy some cider in Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor, the heart and soul of Gijón, is a bustling square that sits at the meeting point of San Lorenzo Beach, the historic Cimadevilla neighborhood, and the city center. This historic square features some impressive neoclassical architecture to check out and is the perfect place to enjoy some local Asturian cider.
Asturias is the biggest producer of cider in Spain, and Gijón is dotted with traditional cider bars (sidrerías) where you can have a tipple. The way of pouring cider is an artform, where the bartender holds the bottle high above their head and pours the cider into a glass held at waist height, aerating the drink and releasing its taste and aroma.
The Plaza Mayor on the Dia de Asturia. Photo: Yumarso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
11. Try the cachopo at Sidrería Tierra Astur
Cachopo, a dish of breaded veal or beef with cheese and ham folded inside, is one of the most famous Asturian dishes. When in Gijón, there are few better places to try this than at Sidrería Tierra Astur, which is famous amongst Asturianos for making one of the best versions of this dish.
You can also try other local specialties here like the fabada stew, local cheeses, and huge platters of grilled meats. Portions are enormous, so order carefully or ask the staff for some guidance.
12. People watch at the Plaza del Marqués
If you’re looking for a nice spot to enjoy an afternoon drink in the sun while people watching, Plaza del Marqués is hard to beat. Just to the west of Plaza Mayor, this is a lively spot with plenty of restaurants that have set up seats on the square.
On one side of the square is the Palacio de Revillagigedo, with a beautiful and intricate façade, and there are also views down toward the harbor where yachts bob at anchor.
Best of all is the large Árbol de la Sidra (Tree of Cider), a huge tree sculpture made entirely of empty cider bottles. If you were looking for a sign of what you should be drinking in town, this is it!
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How to spend 2 days in Gijón
Day 1
Like any good itinerary for cities in Spain, start your day off in Gijón by wandering through its historic Cimadevilla district. This is the oldest part of the city, set on the peninsula at the western edge of the beach. Make sure to carve out some time to visit the underground Roman Baths in front of the Iglesia de San Pedro.
Afterwards, follow the paths out along the edge of the peninsula, leading you onto the Catalina Headland. This area has plenty of green lawns and is a favorite spot for locals to come and relax while gazing out to sea. At the very tip is the city’s famous concrete sculpture, Elogio del Horizonte, framing the waves as they roll past.
For lunch, try either Casa Fernando on Plaza del Marqués or La Galana on Plaza Mayor, both with plenty of cider and Asturian specialties.
Then, stroll along the promenade or set up on the beach, perhaps taking an afternoon surfing lesson.
As the day winds down and evening approaches, head to the eastern end of the promenade, to Parque Isabel La Católica, a spacious landscaped park that is perfect for a stroll.
For dinner, the streets radiating out of Plaza de San Miguel (set a few blocks back from the beach) are loaded with great spots to eat.
Day 2
Catch a relatively early bus (line L1 or L10) out to the Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura, the largest building in Spain. There, gawk at the enormous building and take a tour and/or head up to the top for great views.
Afterwards, just across the road is the Jardín Botánico Atlántico, which is a nice garden where you can relax amongst nature before heading back to the city.
From the garden, you have two choices: if you’re interested in visiting the Museum of the Asturian People, which chronicles the local culture’s long history, then you just need to make a short walk over to it (it’s also in the vicinity of the Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura).
Otherwise, you can head back into the city center to see the Museo Ferrocarril, which offers a surprisingly interesting look at the history of trains in Asturias. The museum just next to Playa de Poniente beach.
After your museum visits, spend your last evening in Gijón doing as the locals do: sipping cider in one of the city’s many taverns. Once again, Plaza del Marqués is a fine choice, and beyond the huge tree sculpture made of cider bottles, there are plenty more taverns, bars, and pubs to check out.
A bit further away but still within walking distance is the famous Sidrería Tierra Astur, one of the city’s most popular cider taverns.
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