A Local’s Guide to Visiting the Costa Brava, Spain
Affiliate disclosure: some of the links in this article are affiliate links. If you book using one of them, we’ll earn a small commission. All of our info is free to read and free of ads, so we appreciate it!
The Costa Brava, meaning ‘wild coast’ in Spanish, is a stunning stretch of coastline in the northeast of Catalonia, running from Blanes to the French border. It offers a dazzling combination of rugged coastline peppered with secretive coves, wide sandy beaches, pine forests, and ancient ruins.
The charming towns and villages strung along the coast are also some of the most beautiful in Spain, providing romantic and inviting places to act as a base as you explore.
On offer along the Costa Brava are a wealth of activities, from diving in the waters that surround the protected Illes Medes to hiking along the coast and visiting the wacky museums dedicated to Salvador Dalí.
Between your stints of exploration, you’ll also be spoilt for choice when it comes to cuisine. Paella and fresh seafood overlooking the Mediterranean, fine dining at Michelin star restaurants, and classic Catalan tapas dishes are all on offer here – best paired with the local wine.
While it is one of the most popular holiday coasts in Spain, the Costa Brava strikes a good balance. There are stretches of built-up tourism infrastructure, but for the most part, things here have been tastefully developed, and you’ll also find vast stretches of nothing but twisting cliffs, quiet coves of turquoise water, and endless views of the Mediterranean.
More Spain travel info:
For more info on travel in Spain, check out our Spain travel guide and this article on 10 places to visit in Northern Spain.
If you could use some one-on-one help planning your itinerary, schedule a Spain travel consultation with one of our Local Experts!
Table of Contents
What is the Costa Brava
Where is the Costa Brava
Why visit
Best time to visit
How long to spend
How to get there
Where to stay
Places to visit
Things to do
Best beaches
What is the Costa Brava
The Costa Brava is the unofficial name given to the coast north of Barcelona, from the town of Blanes to the French border. But it’s also the name given to the wider region, encompassing inland towns, mountaintop villages, and even extending as far inland as Girona, Catalonia’s ‘second city’.
The villages strung along the coast are historic fishing settlements, some whose history stretch back to the ancient Greeks and Romans. Like a lot of other coastal regions in Spain, tourism here exploded in the mid-to-late 20th century, with people drawn by the gorgeous coastline and the promise of stunning and secluded coves for swimming.
This geography is what defines the Costa Brava – for most people, the name conjures up images of windswept cliffs that hide away coves below and golden-sand beaches flanked by pine forests and rocky headlands.
Where is the Costa Brava
The Costa Brava is on the northeastern corner of Spain, running from the town of Blanes (around 60km northeast of Barcelona) all the way to the French border. This is the coast of the Girona province, one of four provinces that make up the autonomous community of Catalonia.
As mentioned above, the Costa Brava is also considered to encompass a swathe of inland towns and cities, stretching as far as Girona, considered the ‘gateway’ to the region.
Catalonia occupies the northeast corner of Spain, wedged between the Mediterranean, the Pyrenees and French border, and the autonomous communities of Aragon to the west and Valencia to the south.
How to get there
The best way to get to the Costa Brava is by car, as there are no trains that venture this far up the coast. With a rental car, you’ll also be free to explore the coast at your leisure, since the spaces between the towns are usually where you’ll find the most picturesque calas (small beach coves) that the coast is famous for.
Girona is the closest international airport, putting you within an easy drive of wherever you choose to visit on the coast. Barcelona airport is also an option, although you’ll be 2–3 hours away in the car.
Buses from Barcelona and Girona are also available, but they’re slow since they’ll be stopping at all the small villages along the way. But again, you really want your own vehicle so you can get around and explore.
If you plan on renting a car, I also always recommend checking prices on DiscoverCars. It’s an online aggregator that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing.
AutoEurope is another aggregator that I really like. It tends to be more expensive, but they only list options from large, well-reviewed companies and their customer service is excellent. Their deals often include “zero deductible” rental insurance and they’re the best option if want the easiest experience and are ok paying a little more for it.
Why visit
The Costa Brava is widely considered as one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline not just in Spain, but in Europe. People gush about the beautiful headlands, golden-sand beach coves, and picture-perfect towns of white nestled on the sandy bays.
Those charming seaside towns each have their own personality, depending on what interests you. There’s heavy tourism development in places like Lloret del Mar and Platja d’Aro, akin to the towns found along the Costa del Sol in Andalucia.
But then there are the quiet and charming places like Tossa de Mar, Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc, and Tamariu, offering a more authentic feel and laid-back vibe.
Being a huge coastal region, water sports are a big reason to visit the Costa Brava, as the tranquil coves are ideal for kayaking, paddleboarding, and snorkeling. But you’ll also find great hiking trails along the coast, wineries and elegant restaurants, ancient ruins, and three different museums dedicated to Salvador Dalí.
Connect with one of our Spain-based local experts for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips!
Best time to visit
The best time to visit the Costa Brava is in May, just before the busy summer season hits. During this time, the weather is warm and the water ideal for swimming, and the many gardens up and down the coast are in full bloom.
Visiting the Costa Brava in May will also let you enjoy the area before the major crowds arrive and stay from June until August. During the height of summer, it’s almost impossible to find parking spaces at the calas without waking up before 7:00 AM. On top of that, accommodation is hard to come by and very expensive.
September (and fall in general) is also a good time to visit, although as the season progresses there’s a bigger chance for rainy days. The water temperature is also starting to drop, which might make it too chilly for swimming.
However, the cooler temperatures during the day make it a beautiful time to focus on hiking along the Cami de Ronda.
In winter, a lot of the coast shuts down since it’s the off-season. However, you can still expect some infrastructure to be open, and it’s a great time to find some deals on your accommodation.
Winter days in Catalonia are also very sunny as well, and afternoons are best spent either hiking along the coast or simply basking in the afternoon glow on a sunny terrace somewhere.
How long to spend
For an enjoyable time exploring the Costa Brava, you need around 4–5 days. This gives you time to enjoy a day in Girona and stay overnight in a handful of the coastal towns, enjoying some time hiking the Cami de Ronda coastal paths and visiting several of the stunning calas and other attractions.
Girona should be done either at the beginning or the end of your trip to the Costa Brava. For the coast, start off with a night in Tossa de Mar, a small town with a beautiful beach, a compact historic core, and a medieval castle rising from one end of the town above the beach.
The views from the castle are sublime, and there are plenty of great restaurants to choose from at its base in the town center.
The next day, make sure to take the scenic route along the coastal road, stopping off at one of the stunning calas along the way – Cala Pola is a good bet. The town of Sant Feliu de Guíxols is a good spot for lunch, and you should head straight to the port area for the best seafood restaurants.
After lunch, take to the highway and make a beeline for the neighboring towns of Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc, so close to one another you can wander between them without even noticing.
Spend two nights here enjoying the beautiful beaches, excellent restaurants, and some of the most spectacular views along the Cami de Ronda that venture into the unspoiled landscapes on either side of the towns.
Finally, for your last night, make the drive out to Cadaqués on the Cap de Creus. This is a gorgeous place, and you can make the walk over the hill to the small fishing settlement of Portlligat to visit the Casa-Museum Salvador Dalí – the zany home of the famed Spanish artist.
With all that being said, the Costa Brava is also popular with locals from Barcelona for shorter weekend breaks. If you’re looking to spend time lazing on a beach in a beautiful Spanish town, 2–3 days is all the time you need.
Where to stay
If your plan is to base yourself in one spot and spend time exploring the Costa Brava, then I would recommend choosing somewhere that could be considered in the middle. Again, Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc are a good choice, with easy access in either direction and only a short drive to Girona.
Another tempting option is the mountaintop town of Begur, a historic fortified town with great views of the coast. Stay here and you’ll be within a short drive of both the small calas and twisted coves as well as the wide and spacious beach, Platja de Pals.
Calella de Palafrugell
Hotel Sant Roc is a pleasant little hotel overlooking the sea and just a few minutes’ walk from both the beach and the town center ($150). Hotel La Torre has a similar proposition, but a bit simpler and at a lower price ($110). For a budget option that is also family-friendly, Hotel Port-Bo is always a safe bet ($70).
Inland from Palafrugell, if you want luxurious rooms, manicured gardens, an excellent spa, and terrific countryside views all in farmhouse-chic style, 5-star Mas de Torrent is an absolute treat ($300).
Llafranc
Hotel Terramar is right on the beach and offers family-friendly rooms that are spacious, bright, and airy. It’s a great value too at under $100. In the same price range (and similar location), you also have family-run Hotel Casamar, which has an on-site Michelin-starred restaurant where one of the sons is the head chef ($120).
Hotel El Far, high on a hill overlooking town, is a very boutique option at a higher price range. It’s not the most convenient for getting into town or the beach, but it’s lovely ($250).
Begur
Hotel Aiguaclara is a nice boutique option with eclectic style in the heart of the old town. Breakfast is great as is the hotel restaurant ($140). Hotel Aiguablava has some of the best views in the Costa Brava, the rooms are elegant (opt for those with sea view terraces), and service is immaculate ($180).
Best places to visit
I’ve already covered a few destinations to check out in the above two sections. Below, I’ve expanded on those spots and included several more towns and areas to consider checking out.
Figueres, Cadaqués & the Cap de Creus Natural Park
Close to the French border is where you’ll find arguably the most scenic part of the Costa Brava: the Cap de Creus Natural Park. This is where the far-eastern end of the Pyrenees sinks into the Mediterranean Sea, an arid cape of rugged cliffs that give way to tranquil bays and coves.
At the eastern edge of the cape, you’ll find the historic fishing villages of Cadaqués and Portlligat, atmospheric places filled with white-washed homes that back onto the rugged inland mountains. Both enjoy picturesque coves for swimming, and in Portlligat, you’ll find the former home of Salvador Dalí.
Speaking of Dalí, head to Figueres – the gateway city to the Cap de Creus – to visit the birthplace of the famed Spanish artist. In the city you can stop by the Dalí Theater and Museum, a wacky building designed by the artist himself to hold a wealth of his best works from over the years, many of which are inspired by the wild landscapes of the Cap de Creus.
Begur & Fornells
The town of Begur, along with the nearby beach village of Fornells, is a place that still flies a bit under the radar with international travelers. In Begur, there’s a colorful historic quarter and hilltop castle, and the fortified town is home to several gorgeous squares lined with cafés and restaurants.
Fornells, just a short drive away from Begur, is a quiet seaside village with rocky coves and dense pine trees. Together, these two destinations make for a tempting day trip or a perfect base to set up for a weekend.
Blanes & Lloret de Mar
Blanes and Lloret de Mar are two neighboring towns that mark the official start of the Costa Brava. Blanes is a quiet place, with a charming old town to explore and an active fishing port.
On the other hand, Lloret de Mar is a heavily developed tourist destination, known for its nightlife and ‘package holiday’ deals (expect something like the towns along the Costa del Sol in Andalucia).
The stretch of coast between the two towns is well worth a drive (or a hike) for the various viewpoints along the way, as well as the Jardins de Santa Clotilde providing a tranquil escape overlooking the beautiful coast.
Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc
My recommendation for a base while on the Costa Brava is Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc, widely regarded as two of the most beautiful coastal villages in Spain.
Packed with white homes facing the Mediterranean, stunning coves in town and strung along the coast on either side, and fantastic restaurants, it is a dreamy destination for a day, a weekend, or even an entire week.
Directly next to Calella de Palafrugell (so much so that it seems like the same town), Llafranc offers an idyllic coastal experience. Despite being right next to Calella de Palafrugell, this town immediately feels more laid-back than its neighbor.
Our local experts have answers!
Connect with our Spain-based experts for help perfecting your itinerary, fabulous local tips, and expert advice on your trip planning!
Tossa de Mar and Sant Feliu de Guíxols
Tossa de Mar, located near Lloret de Mar, is one of the more charming towns along the southern end of the Costa Brava. Anchoring one side of the town is its medieval castle, sitting on the headland and overlooking the sweeping beach and surrounding coastline shrouded in pine forests.
It’s another tempting spot to base yourself, with the compact old town center overflowing with excellent restaurants and interesting boutique stores.
The Cami de Ronda heading up the coast is also excellent, revealing some of the more beautiful hidden calas along the way.
Walk or drive far enough up the coast and you’ll come out the other side at Sant Feliu de Guíxols, one of the larger towns in the area. This is the beginning of a bit of a built-up area, with nearby S'Agaró and Platja d’Aro both large towns with a lot of tourism infrastructure. Still, that makes all these places wonderful spots for watersports, and a good base if you like wide sandy beaches.
Girona
Although not located directly on the coast, Girona is the gateway to the Costa Brava, and well worth a visit. This historic city is home to one of the best-preserved Jewish Quarters in Europe, a narrow warren of alleys that was once home to a large population of Jewish citizens before they were expelled from the city.
Also, in Girona you can explore some beautiful medieval city walls from the 12th century, and of course the city’s famous cathedral.
L'Escala
L'Escala is another great destination located right next to the Greco-Roman ruins of Empúries. On top of that, it also enjoys a fine location at the southern end of the Gulf of Roses, one of the few areas of the Costa Brava where the twisting cliffs give way to a long and wide sandy beach. This fact makes it a busy spot in the summer, with several popular campsites along the beach filling up quickly.
The town is also a great base for exploring the nearby Montgrí Nature Reserve, a large expansive of undeveloped coastline filled with biking and hiking trails and secretive coves.
Things to do on the Costa Brava
Visit Some of the Secret Calas
It’s been said enough already; there are plenty of beautiful and secretive coves to discover along the Costa Brava. Hidden by rugged headlands and often only accessible by foot, they’re really quite wonderful. At the bottom of this post I’ve listed some of my favorites.
Go Diving at the Illes Medes
Located off the coast of the town L’Estarit, the Illes Medes are a mecca for scuba divers looking to explore some of the best dive sites in the Mediterranean. Characterized by deep dives that delve into tunnels and down giant sea walls, the protected marine reserve is teeming with life.
Hike Along the Cami de Ronda
We’ve already mentioned the Cami de Ronda several times above, but it’s worth mentioning again. This hiking path stretches along the entire Costa Brava, a historic link between the towns along the way. It was originally used as the main way to get between the different towns, and then during the Civil War, it became a popular way to smuggle goods into Spain under the nose of Franco.
The combination of remote natural landscapes and hidden coves made it a good place to land boats from France, bringing goods and contraband into Spain.
Today, the hiking path is a great way to immerse yourself in the region. At times it’s a well-marked stone footpath, at other times it devolves into little more than a dirt track tracing the remote headlands. You’ll find plenty of swimming spots to enjoy, quiet places that aren’t crowded due to their remote locations.
One of the most popular stretches runs from Calella de Palafrugell/Llafranc and Palamós, which leads you through one of the wildest stretches of the coast in about 7 miles. For something longer (about 14 miles) the path between Tossa de Mar and Sant Feliu de Guíxols is also stunning.
Visit the Empordà Wine Region
The Empordà region has been making wine on the Costa Brava since Roman times, and you can enjoy a tasting at almost thirty different wineries in the area.
There are several ways to enjoy the wineries, from cycling tours stopping by several wineries to overnight stays in luxury guesthouses attached to the vineyards. Vineyard restaurants are also excellent.
Immerse Yourself in the World of Salvador Dalí
The Salvador Dalí House Portlligat Museum is one of the biggest highlights of a stay on the Costa Brava. This is a complex of white houses in Portlligat, a small settlement over the hill from Cadaqués. This is where Dalí lived for half a century, and the place is as crazy as you would imagine it to be.
At the entrance visitors are greeted by a seven-foot-tall stuffed bear holding a camera flash in hand, and things only get weirder from there. It’s an intriguing look into the mind of one of Spain’s most famous artists.
Stop by the Theater Museum of Salvador Dalí
If his former home doesn’t give you enough to think about, you can also make the journey to Figueres, the birthplace of Dalí. Here, the Dalí Theatre-Museum is the city’s must-visit attraction, showcasing the artist's works in a unique and immersive setting.
It’s another chance to marvel at the quirky exhibits and explore the mind of one of the most influential artists of the 20th century.
Admire the Cap Roig Botanical Gardens
Located in the coastal town of Palafrugell, the Cap Roig Botanical Gardens are a true gem of the Costa Brava. Here, a cascade of garden terraces flows down from the cliffs toward the beach, showcasing a staggering variety of plant species from around the world.
As you explore the gardens, you’ll also turn up plenty of sculptures by international artists, and as always, glimpse incredible views of the Mediterranean.
Marvel at Greco-Roman Ruins
The Empúries Ruins is a stunning place to visit, even if you don’t care much for old ruins. It’s like a smaller version of Pompeii, right next to the Mediterranean Sea. The scenery is wonderful, and worth the trip by itself.
This place was once a prosperous town for both the Greeks and the Romans, near the modern-day town of L’Escala. It’s one of the most significant archaeological sites in Spain.
Best beaches on the Costa Brava
Cala El Crit: A sandy cove surrounded by rocks and a dark legend of pirates and murder. It is near Calella de Palafrugell and can only be reached on foot.
Cala Portaló: A pebbly beach and a shallow cove with turquoise water and rocky cliffs. It is in the Cap de Creus Natural Park, north of Cadaqués, and was an inspiration for Salvador Dalí’s paintings.
Cala Estreta: A small sandy bay with a giant rock formation called ‘The Red One’. You can also see other unusual rock shapes like the ‘Sleeping Dragon’ in the sea. It is around a 20 to 30-minute walk from Palamós.
Cala Pedrosa: A small cove with clear water and a pebble beach near Tamariu, accessed by a steep path or by boat. It also has a fisherman’s hut that serves as a restaurant and a place to rent kayaks.
Cala Treumal: A secluded beach with golden sand and clear water. It’s close to Lloret de Mar and is surrounded by pine trees and a botanical garden. It is less crowded than the nearby beaches of Lloret, Fenals and Santa Cristina.
Cala del Pi: A picturesque bay with white sand and blue water. It is in Platja d’Aro and is considered one of the prettiest calas along the coast. It has a rocky bottom and is ideal for snorkeling.
Cala Sa Boadella: A stunning beach with fine sand and crystal water. It is in Lloret de Mar and is situated between the Cala Santa Cristina and the beach of Fenals. It is in a natural environment and has a nudist area.
Connect with a Spain expert
