Travel Guide to Cusco & the Sacred Valley, Peru
Once the Capital of the ancient Inca Empire, Cusco is the most dazzling city in Andean South America. The city blends Inca ruins with Spanish Colonial architecture, and no other city in Peru packs in such variety: indigenous culture, terrific cuisine, blockbuster sights, and a captivating contrast between mountain and jungle scenery.
People primarily come here because it is the gateway for trips out into the nearby Sacred Valley, which culminate in the spectacle of the continent’s most famous ancient attraction, the extensive ruins of the lost Inca city Machu Picchu. But Cusco itself is well worth spending some time in.
As a place of deep Andean heritage, indigenous traditions are palpable in everything from the food and markets to the festivals and beguiling buildings harking back to both colonial and Inca heydays.
Visitors can dive into the region’s, and really all of Peru’s, fascinating past without ever leaving the city. Colonial churches such as the Cathedral, with its riveting artworks by the 16th/17th-century Escuela cuzqueña school are a testament to both Spanish influence and the blending of Andean and European cultures. Nearby, the Inca empire’s titanic heritage is on full display at sites like Qorikancha, while the colossal ruins of Saqsayhuamán lie just outside town.
Within easy reach of the city, you can journey out into the Sacred Valley to witness Andean villages enlivened by daily handicrafts and produce markets, phenomenal Inca ruins, and luxurious rustic retreats, all scattered across a backdrop of lush mountainsides above the Río Urubamba valley.
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Table of Contents
Why visit
Where is Cusco and the Sacred Valley
Best time to visit
How long to spend
How to get there
Where to stay
Things to do
Where to eat and drink in Cusco
Why visit Cusco & the Sacred Valley
What I love most about Cusco is that it is the perfect blend of authentic Andean tradition and international traveller hub. Almost every backpacker in Peru passes through here, and you’ll find them at countless effortlessly urbane restaurants and cafes offering terrific Peruvian and global cuisines. And yet, traditional festivals like Inti Raymi retain their centuries-old authentic feel, as do the ancient Inca streets all throughout the city and Sacred Valley.
There is also nowhere better in the whole of Peru to use as a base for planning such a big variety of trips to different destinations in the country. From Cusco, you can head off on adventures to mighty Inca ruins high up in the mountains, down into the cloud forest for bird-watching, and further on into one of the most biodiverse parts of the Amazon, Parque Nacional Manu.
The altiplano with Puno and Lake Titicaca is only 6 hours away by bus, the rugged and little-visited Central Highlands beckon to the north, and even Arequipa and Colca Canyon are reachable in a day of travel heading south.
Where is Cusco & the Sacred Valley
Cusco is the cultural heart of the tradition-rich Peruvian Andes. It lies towards the southern end of Peru’s mountainous center, in the country’s southeast. Although technically only 350 miles southeast of Lima, by car that distance almost doubles to 684 miles. It’s a 2-day journey from Lima. Flights from Lima to Cusco take about 1.5 hours.
To Cusco’s southwest, the Andes mountains give way to coastal desert, while to the southeast the high Andean plateau (home to Puno and Lake Titicaca) begins and extends for hundreds of miles. On its northern and eastern borders, the Amazon jungle stretches on almost infinitely.
The Sacred Valley is a swath of land that stretches about 80 kms (as the crow flies - much longer done by road) northwest from Cusco. Constantly surrounded by high mountains with terraced slopes - the Inca’s did not waste any arable land! - the fertile valley is cut by the Urubamba river, which helped make this a major agricultural area for the Incas, and still today.
The valley’s most famous sight is the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu at the northern tip of the valley, which is 3.5 hours by train and bus from Cusco. But beyond just Machu Picchu, the region is full of both heavily visited ruins like Pisac and Ollantaytambo, and majestic sites that receive almost no visitors.
There’s excellent hiking, mountain biking, and rafting in the Valley as well as pretty town and communities engaged in artisan production of things like ceramics and textiles. Some of Sacred Valley is visitable on day trips from Cusco, but because of the mountainous terrain and winding roads, travel times are quite long.
How to get to Cusco
By plane
Most people reach Cusco either by flight or bus from Lima. Flights start at around $55 one-way and flight time is 1.5 hours. Latam Airlines and Star Peru are the main carriers.
You also have direct flights to/from Cusco and the cities of Iquitos in the northern Amazon, Puerto Maldonado in the southern Amazon, Arequipa in the far south, and various cities in Northern Peru. While you have direct flights from a number of smaller cities, depending on where you’re coming from you’ll often have to make a connection in Lima.
By bus
Buses take 21-23 hours from Lima, usually stopping in Nazca, and cost $35-50, with the higher priced buses being most comfortable. If coming from Arequipa, buses take about 10 hours, sometimes requiring a change in Puno or Juliaca. From Puno, it’s 6-7 hours to Cusco. You can also get to Cusco via overnight bus from Puerto Maldonado. It’s a long, but beautiful drive.
Getting around Cusco and the Sacred Valley
Once in the Cusco and Sacred Valley area, your main means of public transport will be buses operated by private companies and semi-informal combis (minibuses) and colectivos (shared taxis).
Private bus companies serve relatively few routes. Combis and colectivos have much broader coverage, serving destinations like Urubamba, Chinchero, Pisac, and Ollantaytambo, as well as many more.
Private bus companies
Private bus operators like Cruz del Sur offer a few routes between Cusco and the main surrounding towns/cities, but their coverage is very limited. For longer distance journeys or those to destinations in other regions (like to Puerto Maldonado, Ayacucho, Puno, Arequipa, etc.), many private bus companies provide service, at all different price points and comfort levels.
Combis and colectivos
Combis and colectivos are shared buses – usually minivans – that run fixed routes, making stops along the way to drop off and pick up passengers. They may have some fixed stops on the route, but may only stop if someone requests to get off or if they need to fill an empty seat.
They are not official buses operated by the government, but they’re extremely common and generally very safe. You can't get everywhere with a combi, but they run dozens of routes connecting towns all across the region.
Typically, combis depart from a fixed location in any given town (although there may be various combi “meeting points”), but departure times vary tremendously. As these are not official buses, schedules are somewhat fluid and drivers will leave whenever they manage to fill their car.
To get where you want to go, ask around to drivers by stating your destination and they’ll point you to the right car. There are generally agreed upon prices for the most part, but you may have to negotiate (ask at your hotel in advance what a ride should cost so you don’t go in blind).
In Cusco, the best place to catch a combi is on Av Grau near the intersection with Pavitos street. In the towns of the Sacred Valley, you’ll have to ask where to find the combis, but they will usually at least pass through the main square at some point to pick up passengers.
Taxis and private drivers
Regular taxis and private drivers are also available all over Cusco, and they can be hired to bring you to most places in the Sacred Valley. While expensive by local standards, the fares are very affordable by most travelers’ standards.
In the towns of the Sacred Valley, you’ll find lots of “pseudo-taxis” that will offer to drive you around. These are usually just private individuals with a car, not official taxis and they rarely have any government license. While usually safe, it’s best to exercise caution when dealing with private individuals.
Trains
Trains offer a more expensive and novel way to travel through the Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes, gateway to Machu Picchu. But know that trains in the region only operate between Cusco and Machu Picchu, or Cusco and Puno, and they are primarily tourist trains (and expensive) and of almost no use as a means of public transport.
Tour operators
Tour operators and tour buses are also an option to get from Cusco to many of the region's popular tourist destinations, like Maras, Moray, or Rainbow mountain for example. You’ll find tour agencies all around Cusco, especially around the Plaza de Armas (main square).
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Best time to visit
Lush green hills outside of Chinchero
Cusco has two distinct seasons: a colder, drier winter between May and September and a milder, significantly wetter summer between October and April.
May to August - Best time to visit
The best time to visit the Cusco region is between May and August. The worst of the wet season has passed in the Andes, and the high-altitude grasslands glimmer with new greenery. The cooler drier weather also means this is the best time for taking on treks like the Inca Trail, and this conveniently coincides with the main period people in North America and Europe take their vacation.
June, particularly, is a great time to come, as the midwinter solstice festival Inti Raymi takes place at Sacsayhuamán near Cusco.
The combination of good weather and summer vacation in the northern hemisphere does mean that this is also one of the busiest (and most expensive) times of the year to be here. If coming in high season, make your bookings and arrangements well in advance.
October to April
If you visit between October and April, most of the Sacred Valley attractions will be open, most of the time. But be forewarned that during extended periods of rain hikes and paths to ruins are muddy and often impassable.
Also know that while Machu Picchu is open year round, the Inca trail closes for maintenance during the entire month of February. If you can accept a little rain on the forecast, interesting festivals nevertheless await visitors, such as Cusco’s Dia de Todos los Santos (Day of all the saints) on November 1.
For more info on visiting Peru in each season, check out our guide to the best time to visit Peru.
How long to spend in Cusco and the Sacred Valley
For a first visit to Cusco and the Sacred Valley, you need a bare minimum of 3 days, though you’d be better of with 5.
With 3-5 days, you can do justice to the main historic sights in Cusco and take a day (or, ideally, two) to explore the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.
5-7 days gives you more time to properly appreciate the Sacred Valley as well as Cusco, without feeling like you’re rushing too much.
Meanwhile 7-14 days would allow for ample time to factor in one of the continent’s ultimate adventures: a multi-day trek to Machu Picchu.
3-5 Days: Cusco & Machu Picchu
Explore Cusco’s historic center, seeing major sights like the cathedral, Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesús and Qorikancha. Then take the train through the Sacred Valley, perhaps overnighting at Ollantaytambo to see the spectacular ruins and then at Aguas Calientes before spending the day discovering Machu Picchu.
5-7 Days: Sacred Valley Stops
Take more time discovering Cusco, including devoting a day to the quartet of Inca ruins just outside the city. Add on more destinations in the Sacred Valley, overnighting also at colorful Pisac with its magnificent ruins, market and alternative feel.
Factor in time at Moray ruins, where you can also enjoy one of Peru’s best restaurants, near Maras, or at Chinchero with its wonderful market. After discovering Machu Picchu, take a soak in some of the nearby thermal baths at Santa Teresa.
7-14 Days: Inca Trails
Use the additional time to take on one of the treks to Machu Picchu, such as the Inca Trail or Salkantay trek. There will also be time to visit other ancient sites in the Sacred Valley, like Salineras de Maras, a splendid group of Inca saltpans.
Where to stay
Looking down on the Plaza de Armas in Cusco
The busy little town of Pisac
Chinchero, known for its fabulous market
Cusco is the best base for familiarizing yourself with the region and with Andean culture. It’s also a great place to book all manner of excursions throughout the Sacred Valley and central Amazon jungle.
However, for a true feel for the region, head out to at least one of the bases in the Sacred Valley, like Pisac, to experience the bucolic lifestyle, magnificent ancient ruins, and ancient traditions for which the region is famous. Many of the towns of the valley are also 500-1,000 meters lower than Cusco, so if you’re suffering with the altitude they may provide a welcome break.
Cusco
This is perhaps the country’s most traveller-friendly and atmospheric city to stay in, with so much to do from exploring colossal Inca ruins like Saqsaywamán to an array of eclectic restaurants offering Andean and international fare. The city’s colonial architecture is some of the prettiest and best preserved of anywhere in the Americas, there are a few good museums, and it’s just an all around fun place to spend a few days wandering.
Meet locals and fellow travellers at the lively bars or plan trips out into the magical Sacred Valley that begins just outside the city. Spend anything from three to ten days here.
Pisac
This lively Sacred Valley town is popular with travellers who enjoy its bustling daily market, the hike to the spectacular ruins on the nearby hill and the New Age vibe. Its central location makes it perfect for a stop on the way between Cusco and Machu Picchu. Spend two nights here.
Chinchero
Tiny Chinchero, 19km northwest of Cusco on the road to Urubamba, sports a fabulous market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays – the special local handicraft is weaving, and on market days these create a sea of brightly-colored fabrics spilling across the village center.
There’s a good hike to some Inca ruins too, making it worth spending the night – and you could visit ruins like Moray and the Salineras de Maras from here too.
Ollantaytambo
This perfectly preserved Inca town, with all stone streets and houses, has two vast archaeological sites to explore and a developed backpacker scene. Its connections by rail to Aguas Calientes near Machu Picchu and by road to Cusco make it a popular traveller stop. Irrigation canals run through the middle of some streets, and the gentle sound of running water further heightens the ambience, especially at night.
Allow at least one night and two days here. You could also potentially use this as a base for visiting Machu Picchu, though Aguas Calientes is more convenient.
Aguas Calients/Machu Picchu area
Aguas Calientes, sometimes called Machu Picchu pueblo, is a little town about 20 minutes by bus (you can also walk) from the archaeological site. It’s entirely a tourist town and is much less pretty than somewhere like Ollantaytambo, but it does offer the easiest access to Machu Picchu, especially if you want to get in early before the crowds arrive.
There are a few luxury hotels here though, one of which - the 5-star Belmond Sanctuary Lodge - is literally directly in front of the Machu Picchu archaeological site. Guests have views of Machu Picchu and are all but guaranteed to be the first to enter the site. If you have the budget for it, it’s an unbelievable experience.
Santa Teresa
This pretty little town a few miles northwest of Machu Picchu is celebrated for its natural hot springs. There are three sets around town, with the best-known on the backpacker circuit being Colcamayo, where water temperatures are a toasty 111°F (44°C).
What to see & do in Cusco and the Sacred Valley
1. Wander Cusco’s historic center
A stroll for half a day around Cusco’s Plaza de Armas (central square) can be more fulfilling than a complete exploration of many Peruvian cities. Grab something to eat in one of the historic buildings ringing the plaza, gaze at the views unfolding up to the distant mountains, and step inside the colonial jewels of the city’s cathedral and Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesús chruch.
Make some time to also wander the San Blas neighborhood and visit what was once the most lavish Inca temple in the empire, Qorikancha.
2. Sample Cusco’s renowned dining scene
Everyone raves about Lima’s food, but the Cusco area isn’t far behind. Besides Michelin-starred Virgilio Martinez’s “Mil” at nearby Moray, the city has numerous high-end joints like Cicciolina, ensconced within a colonial mansion and offering the likes of cured rabbit and coconut-doused trout, or Marcelo Batata, with its novel takes on typical Andean cuisine such as quinotto (quinoa risotto).
3. Explore the Inca ruins scattered around Cusco
There is a quartet of fantastic Inca ruins within 20-30 minutes of Cusco: impressive Saqsaywamán, site of winter solstice festival Inti Raymi, the ceremonial site of Q’enqo, probable former Inca guard post Pukapukara, and Tambomachay, associated with Inca water rituals.
The massive walls at Sacsaywamán. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Tambomachay. Photo: Kevstan, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Take the train through the Sacred Valley
In a continent with few remaining train trips, this railway journey from just outside Cusco through the Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo and then Aguas Calientes is one of South America’s best. Travel on one of several locomotives, on the 4.5-hour trip, watching views of dazzlingly green rocky valley scenes embellished with comely villages and breathtaking Inca ruins unravel as you go.
5. Visit Moray for dramatic ruins and fine dining
One of the Sacred Valley region’s most intriguing ancient sites besides Machu Picchu, Moray is an impressive ampitheater-like series of concentric terraces built into a depression in the ground that could have once served as a place where the Inca tested what crops could flourish in the area.
Right next to it is Michelin-starred Virgilio Martínez’ Andean restaurant Mil, one of South America’s top dining experiences. Allow a half-day to do both justice.
The ancient Inca agricultural research site of Moray
6. Hike one of several Inca trails to Machu Picchu
It’s not just about the Inca ruins at the end of the trail, Machu Picchu, but also about the drama of the approach to them. And no one can deny the world-renowned four-day Inca Trail is the most dramatic approach.
The main Inca Trail is 24 miles, passing some magical mountain passes and photogenic Inca sites. There are other less-crowded alternative treks too, like the 26-mile Salkantay trek.
7. See South America’s most famous ancient site, Machu Picchu
Perhaps the most famous ancient site in all the Americas, Machu Picchu beggars belief: a huge ancient Inca city never discovered by the conquistadors, spread-eagled across a ridgetop flanked by precipitous mountainsides and surrounded by dense jungle. Allow a full day to explore the site.
8. Climb up to one of Machu Picchu’s mountainous viewpoints
Enhance the drama of a visit to Machu Picchu with a clamber to one of the site’s viewpoints for fantastic overviews of the complex.
Head for the precipitous crag of Wayna Picchu, an adventure which you need to reserve for a fee on one of the limited daily tickets, or try the mountain which offers the most stunning view of the ruins, Cerro Machu Picchu, incurring no additional charge for Machu Picchu visitors. Set aside an extra couple of hours to climb up to either and back again.
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9. Raft the mighty rapids of the Apurimac
The Apurimac river, churning through gorges below Choquequirao, is the region’s and one of Peru’s best rivers for white-water rafting, generally run between April and November. Cusco agencies like well-regarded River Explorers offer two- to six-day trips, camping en route.
10. Visit the ruins of Pisac and Ollantaytambo
Pisac and Ollantaytambo are two of the most popular places to visit in the Sacred Valley.
The ruin complex at Pisac is very large, and the setting, providing stunning views all around the valley, is fabulous. Pisac town is also quite pretty and it has a market that takes up its entire main square and is very popular with tourists. Most of the goods are cheap (or should be) and of questionable quality though, so this is not a great place to buy quality goods.
Ollantaytambo is an imposing stone outpost of monumental size. It rises vertically over 150 steps up a steep mountain slope, with terraced levels backed by enormous stone walls. The site is well documented historically, and was once the site of fierce fighting between the Spanish and the Incas. Ollantaytambo town is also one of the prettiest villages in the valley.
Looking down on the town of Ollantaytambo from the the ruins. Photo: Mx._Granger, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
11. Go mountain biking
There are good mountain biking trails ranging from technical single track and plunging downhill to moderate and wide paths all over the immediate Cusco area and the Sacred Valley. Mountain biking is so popular that there are numerous organized events throughout the year which draw riders from all over the world.
There are a number of companies in Cusco specialized in mountain biking who can offer guided tours, bike rentals, and advice on trails/routes. Some even provide multi-day trips.
12. Trek to remote Choquequirao
The 4-day out-and-back hike to the Inca ruins of Choquequirao is one of the Sacred Valley region’s defining experiences, down and up the craggy sides of the Apurimac river to a complex of ruins more extensive that Machu Picchu, including unique terraces with white-stone depictions of llamas.
Ruins at Choqueqirao. Photo: McGhiever, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
13. Visit the stunning church of San Pedro Apóstol
About one hour south of Cusco, the town of Andahuaylillas is home to a little, nondescript church. While the outside is fairly simple, the inside is anything but; its entirety is painted in exuberant bright colors and much of the wood is carved with Baroque themes and painted in gold leaf. It is often affectionately called “Peru’s Sistine Chapel”, although there’s a little marketing ploy there too…
This site, along with the next two (Tipon and Pikillaqta), are not actually in the Sacred Valley (which is north of Cusco), and because they are in the opposite direction from the valley and its popular sites, you’ll encounter very few other visitors at them.
14. Explore Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca)
Emblazoned now across thousands of Instagram accounts, the journey to the startlingly hued Rainbow Mountain remains, despite its popularity, one of the wackiest and most otherworldly activities in Peru. It’s a 6-mile round-trip hike to see this mountain decorated in striking stripes of different-colored minerals. The excursion from Cusco takes a whole day.
Rainbow mountain
15. Explore the ruins of Tipon (and try guinea pig)
Tipon is a huge archaeological site also about an hour south of Cusco that features terraced fields carved out of a mountain slope watered by a still-functioning irrigation system through which water continues to run year round.
The town of Tipon next to the ruins is also famous for its roast guinea pig, and you’ll sometimes see friendly vendors waving sticks, with roast guinea pig on them, as you drive down the town’s main street.
16. See pre-Inca ruins at Pikillaqta
The crumbling remains of the mysterious capital of the once-great Wari empire (which preceded the Incas by nearly a millennium) can be found a 30-minute drive from Cusco, in the opposite direction from the Sacred Valley, and attracting just a fraction of the tourist footfall.
The remains of this stone and adobe city, one of the largest settlements in the Americas in its heyday some 1500 years ago, are well worth an afternoon of exploration.
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