Icelandic Highlands Itinerary
We call this 2-day itinerary to Iceland’s central highlands the “Secret Circle".” Why? Many years ago there were no names to Iceland’s now many “circle” tours. The Golden Circle and the Diamond Circle are new names that Iceland’s [fabulous] national tourism board has given to these routes. It’s easier to market them that way! So this tour, unknown to the vast majority of both guides and visitors, is our Secret Circle.
Follow this route to spend two glorious days in the rural highlands crossing both the North and South Fjallabak tracks while exploring Iceland’s rugged and less-visited interior. Be aware that you will need a 4x4, off-road driving experience, and that your insurance may not cover you for river crossings.
This is a wild region of stunning natural beauty, and you’ll have secret hot pools all to yourselves, the opportunity to go swimming in both warm and cold rivers, hikes in areas formed by geological forces and millennia of volcanic activity, and countless gorgeous drives. We’ll point out stops at forgotten waterfalls, massive crater lakes, marvelous rock formations, deep canyons, stunning valleys, and many more of Iceland’s treasures.
If you’re not comfortable driving on your own or would just rather experience the highlands in the company of a local guide, check out some of our favorite Iceland guide Oli’s tours on his page at www.goaskalocal.com/oli.
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Meet Óli, your Local Expert in Iceland!
This itinerary was created by Icelander and local guide Óli.
Óli has been a driver-guide for over 30 years and started long before Iceland was a major tourist destination. He’s based in the countryside just outside of Reykjavik and spend 250+ days of every year guiding.
Rain or shine, in the blistering cold, and even in blizzards, you’ll find Óli out somewhere showing travelers the best of his country - or at least what you can see of it through a snowstorm!
If you’re looking for a driver guide for your trip, reach out to Óli at www.goaskalocal.com/oli.
Table of Contents
Day 1
Breakfast in Reykjavik
Off-road on F-road F225 to Landmannalaugar
Sölvarhraun and Skjólkvíarhraun lava fields
Domadalur valley
Frostastadavatn lake
Landmannalaugar
F-road F208 to Eldgja fissure
Overnight in Hrifunes
Day 2
Glacier views on the road to Ljótarstadarheidi
Oldufell mountain
Axlarfoss waterfall
Hólmsá river crossing
Mælifellssandur desert
Myrdalsjökull glacier
Mælifell mountain
Hiking in Emstrur
Walking in Markafljótsgljúfur canyon
Viking history in Fljótshlíð
Gluggafoss waterfall
Day 1 - Journey to the heart of Landmannalaugar
Lava fields, warm-water river swimming, backcountry hiking, off-roading, and thermal baths
Start your drive from Reykjavik at 08:00, making sure to stop by a bakery to gather provisions for picnics/snacks for the next two days. You should be on the road by 10:00 am leaving the city behind as you head for road F225.
Once you leave the tarmac roads, you’ll be on F225 which is for 4x4 only. You’ll drive past the north side of the volcano Hekla, and cross plenty of beige colored pumice stone.
Over the next hours, the route will take you through the lava fields of Sölvarhraun and Skjólkvíarhraun, on across the Domadalur valley, along Frostastadavatn lake, and then into the natural area of Landmannalaugar, where you’ll make a special stop to relax in a warm river. You’ll have ample opportunity to stop all along the route for short hikes, waterfall hunting, natural thermal baths, and more.
From Landmannalaugar, head east on F208 through narrow canyons and quiet sheep grazing valleys full of craters. You’ll find yourself surrounded on all sides by volcanoes and cross up to 20 different rivers en route to the Eldgja fissure.
Eldgja errupted 30 years before the first settler came to Iceland and is now full of beautiful green and yellow moss. While here, also make time to visit Ofærufoss waterfall which lies in the same canyon. Depending on your pace, this will likely be your last stop of the day. As dusk settles in, head down to your accommodation at Hrifunes.
Once at the guesthouse, take some time to relax before a hearty dinner of local and fresh Iceland fare. Now it’s time for some shut-eye as you’ll be up early tomorrow to chase the day!
Day 2 - Otherworldly scenery in the little-visited North Fjallabak
Keep your camera with you as you cross into totally different territory. Yesterday’s green valleys and vegetations gives way to rugged, unforgiving terrain shaped by explosive volcanic activity
Departure time is at 8.30 so that you can make the most of your time. The road will start climbing in altitude as you head to the area of Ljótarstadarheidi. The route will afford fantastic mountain and glacier views, including of Oldufell mountain. Next, it’s time for a dramatic change of scenery as you move into the desert of Mælifellssandur north of the Myrdalsjökull glacier.
Along your route, stop to pay a visit to Axlarfoss waterfall on the way to the great Hólmsá river. Careful crossing here as the river can be far deeper than it looks.
After crossing the river, you’ll arrive to the surreal and otherworldly black sand & gravel plain of Maelifellssandur where you’ll get to see the effect of tonnes of ice and snow melting all around you.
Next stop is the conical volcanic Mælifell mountain to enjoy some splendid views. Carry on west through Emstrur, a popular hiking area with trails of all different lengths and difficulties. Then it’s down to Markafljótsgljúfur canyon, a 200m deep ravine of stunning green vegetation set against black rock with a river flowing through it.
You’ll wind up this highlands tour with some history while visiting the zone of Fljótshlíð which was an area of historic Viking settlements. It is a bucolic area, greener and less stark, and the site of one of Iceland’s most famous Sagas, the Saga of Njáll. Your final stop, and the end of the route, is a visit to the always majestic Gluggafoss waterfall.
From here, you can easily extend your journey by another two days to visit some of the South Coast, Thorsmark park, Diamond beach, the glacier lagoons at Jokulsarlon, Skaftafell glacier, and Laki crater.
Now prepare yourself as you approach the coast, as the solitude you’ve enjoyed for the past two days will be no more!
Safe travels.
Want more great Iceland info?
If you’re looking to create your own self-drive itinerary and want personalized advice on how to plan it better, connect with Iceland expert Óli for an Iceland trip planning consultation.
Want to skip the driving? Óli offers guided tours from 2 day to 2 weeks in his 4X4 off road vehicles all throughout the year.
Lean more on Óli’s page at www.goaskalocal.com/oli.
